








^°-': 







NEW CENTURY EDITION. 



THE HOUSEHOLD 

COOK BOOK 



A Complete and Comprehensive Collection 
of New, Choice and Thoroughly Tested 
Recipes, including every Department of 
Domestic Cookery, especially adapted for 
Household Use. ==^=^===^=== 
Also containing Medical and Toilet Hints, 
Invalid Cookery, Plans for Setting the 
Table, Carving and a great variety of 
Information invaluable to every Housewife 

Edited by JAMES B. SMILEY 



PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED. 




CHICAGO : 

FREDERICK J. DRAKE AND COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

T*o Copies Received 

m. U 1902 

nPVRIQHT ENTRY 

CLASS 6LXX0. No, 

127/75- 

COPY B. 



ii 



4 



COPYRIGHT, 1902, BY SMILEY PUBLISHING COMPANY 

All Rights Reserved. 



Copyri;.'ht, 1894, by James B, Smiley, Copyright, 

1895, 1896 and 1900 by Smiley Publishing Company. 

All Rights Reserved. 



PREFACE. 



ejj^te ™ 



following pages are the result of many years of experi- 
ment, investigation and study. We have aimed to prepare 
work for the use of housekeepers on a more thorough and 
comprehensive plan than has been heretofore attempted. 
As the book is intended for the use of the average housekeeper, there 
is nothing in it which cannot be easily understood by any person of 
ordinary intelligence, for we have taken much pains to present the 
results of modern scientific investigations in a clear and simple way, 
avoiding, as far as possible, the use of technical terms. 

Most of the household books in current use give the processes for 
doing things merely, with no attempt to explain the reasons for the 
processes or the principles which underlie them. We also give, as 
clearly as possible, the most detailed directions in all our recipes, but 
we do not stop there, as we think any one can work more intelli- 
gently by understanding not only how to do a certain thing, but also 
why it is done one way rather than another, and the principles which 
underlie the process. For this reason, throughout the work, we 
systematically explain principles as well as processes. We have long 
felt that a sad defect in most cook books is their utter failure to 
explain those simple, fundamental principles which every cook should, 
if possible, understand. If these principles are once thoroughly 
understood the mystery and uncertainty of kitchen operations will 
vanish, and cooking will simply be adopting certain clearly under- 
stood methods to produce certain definite results, and success will 
always follow. 

For years we have been gathering material for this book, resulting 
in the accumulation of a great mass of recipes. These have been 
tested and culled, and in making selections our rule has been to 
choose those which were most simple and economical, because the 
book is primarily designed for the use of the masses, whose means 
are always limited, and we aim to meet their every day wants, 
although we present also an ample number of more elaborate recipes 
suitable for special occasions. Our endeavor has been to make 
the collection as complete and comprehensive as possible, and to give 
new, choice, and well-tested recipes in every department of house- 
hold cookery. 

s 



4 PREFACE 

The "Time Tables for Cooking," and also the "Time to Cook" 
given with recipes throughout the book, will be very convenient and 
helpful to our readers and this is a feature which is lacking in most 
other cook books. Its preparation has cost us much labor. 

In the chapter on "Cake" we have adopted a new arrangement of 
the recipes, and used an exceptionally large and clear type which for 
practical kitchen use will be found a great convenience. The type 
used throughout the book is large, clear and new, and the ease with 
which it can be read will be appreciated by busy housewives. 

The colored plates and numerous illustrations with which the book 
is embellished have required much labor and expense, and they will 
make many of the subjects much clearer than any wholly verbal de- 
scription could possibly do. 

In preparing this work we have constantly had four main objects 
in view. (1) To secure the fullest, latest, and most reliable informa- 
tion possible on the subjects treated. (2) To explain processes and 
methods for saving time and labor, for the average housewife is 
sadly overworked and her time and strength are of the utmost value. 
(8) To select the best and most economical recipes; and (4) to point 
out ways to prevent waste. 

The effort of the editor has been to produce a thoroughly reliable 
and a plain and practical guide to housekeeping in all its branches, 
which no housewife can afford to do without. 

The book has not been written by any one individual, but many 
pens have been employed more or less in its preparation. 

The book will certainly shed much needed light on the problems 
which confront and often harass housekeepers, explain the funda- 
mental principles which underlie their work, and present a mass of 
recipes which will materially aid them in their labors. 

James B. Smiley, Editor. 



ORDER OF DEPARTMENTS. 



Table Showing the Compar- 
ative Amount of Nutriment 

in Different Foods 7, 8 

Table Showing the Compar- 
ative Amount of Nutriment 
which 25 cents will Buy 
when Invested in Differ- 
ent Foods 9,10 

Tables of Weights and 

Measures 11 to IB 

Time Tables for Cook- 
ing 14 to 16 

Table of Proportions . . 17 

Altering Recipes 18 

Intoxicating Liquors . . 18 

Soups 19 to 47 

Fish 48 to 81 

ShelMsh........^ 82 to 94 

Sauces for Fish, Shells 

Fish and Meats ... 95 to 110 

Meats Ill to 164 

Beef 127 to 135 

Veal 135 to 140 

Mutton and Lamb . 140 to 143 

Pork 144 to 148 

Poultry 148 to 158 

Game 158 to 164 

Cutting up and Curing 

Meats 165 to 175 

Hash and Croquettes 176 to 183 

Eggs 184 to 191 

Milk, Butter and 

Cheese 192 to 203 

Salads 203 to 215 

Vegetables 216 to 255 

Bread, Biscuit, etc. . .256 to 294 

Bread 256 to 272 

Biscuit 273, 274 

Buns, Rusks, Rolls, 

etc 274 to 277 

Johnny Cakes, 

Pones, etc 277 to 279 

Gems, Muffins, 
Scones, etc 280 to 283 



Bread, Biscuit, etc. 
(Continued.) 

Griddle Cakes 283 to 285 

Waffles 285 to 286 

Mushes, etc 286 to 289 

Toast 289, 290 

Sandwiches 290 to 294 

Pastry 295 to 314 

Pies 300 to 311 

Tarts 312 to 313 

Shortcakes 313 to 314 

Puddings and Dump- 
lings 315 to 337 

Doughnuts and Frit- 
ters 338 to 345 

Cake 346 to 408 

Layer Cakes 359 to 372 

Loaf Cakes 372 to 390 

Frosting and Icing 391 to 398 
Small Cakes, Cook- 
ies, Jumbles, 
Snaps, etc 398 to 408 

Desserts ....409 to 433 

Ice Cream, Water Ices 

and Sherbets 434 to 446 

Home Candy Making 457 to 463 

Fruits and Nuts 464 to 487 

Fresh Fruits and 

Nuts 465 to 473 

Dried Fruits 473 to 476 

Cooked Fruits 477 to 485 

Compotes 485 to 487 

Jams, Jellies, Marma- 
lades and Preserves 488 to 517 

Jellies 491 to 496 

Marmalades 496 to 499 

Fruit Cheeses 499 to 500 

Fruit Pastes 500 to 502 

Jams 502 to 504 

Preserves. 505 to 517 

Canning Fruits, Vege- 
tables, etc 518 to 529 

Pickles, Catsups, Soys, 
etc 530 to 549 



OEDER OF DEPARTMENTS 



Pickles, Catsups, Soys, 
etc. (Continued). 

Sour Pickles 531 to 540 

Sweet Pickles 540 to 544 

Spiced Fruit 544 to 545 

Catsups and Soys.. 546 to 549 

Yinegar 550 to 563 

Beverages 554 to 572 

Syrups 5Y0 to 572 

Invalid Cookery 573 to 588 



Carving 589 to 602 

The Table and Its Ap- 
pointments 603 to 611 

Setting the Table. . ..602 to 609 
The Chafing Dish.. . .612 to 621 

Medical Hints 622 to 630 

Toilet Hints 631 to 632 

Glossary 633 to 638 

Index 639 to 656 



TABLE SHOWING THE COMPAKATIVE AMOUNT OF NUTRIENTS IN DIFFEB- 
ENT FOODS. 



The following table will show the comparative amount of nutrients, after evaporating 
the water, remaining in the edible portions of the more important articles of food, i. e., after 
removing the refuse, like bones, shell, skin, etc. The nutritive value of the different foods, 
and the elements of which they are composed, are explained more fully elsewhere, but 
this table will bring clearly before the eye, at a glance, the striking difference in the nutri- 
tive value of different foods. In vegetables, one of their great benefits to the system is de- 
rived from the potash and other salts which they contain, as we elsewhere explain, and 
these make little showing in a table like this, but the table will serve to give some idea of 
the value as food of different articles. There is a lamentable ignorance at the present 
time regarding the true value to the system of different articles of food, causing much loss, 
which is especially burdensome to poor people. 



Beef, Brisket of - 

Beef, Dried, - 

Beef, Fiank of - 

Beef, Flank, Corned.- 

Beef, Neck of - 

Beef, Ribsof. - 

Beef, Shoulder of. ... ■ 

Beef, Sirloin of - 

Beef, Round of - 

Beef, Liver of - 

Beef, Heart of - 

Beef, Tongue of - 

Veal, Shoulder of...- 
Mutton, Breast of . . .- 
Mutton, Flank of. ... ■ 

Mutton, Leg of - 

Mutton, Neck of. ... - 
Mutton, Shoulder of- 

Lamb, Leg of ■ 

Lamb, Loin of ■ 

Lamb, Neck of ■ 

Lamb, Shoulder of..- 
Pork, Shoulder roast- 
Pork, fat, salt - 

Pork, smoked ham.." 

Sausage, Pork ■ 

Tripe, soused ■ 

Chicken ■ 

Turkey ■ 

Eggs, Hen's - 

Bass, black ■ 

Blue Fish ■ 

Codfish, fresh - 

Codfish, salt ■ 

Eel, salt water ■ 

Flounder - 

Haddock - 

Haddock, smoked.. .- 

Halibut, fresh - 

Halibut, smoked ...- 

Herring, fresh ■ 

Mackerel, fresh - 

Mackerel, salted - 

Salmon, fresh ■ 

Sardines, canned... .- 

Trout, brook - 

Whitefish ■ 

Clams ■ 

Lobsters, fresh - 

Oysters, fresh ■ 

Shrimp ■ 



MEATS, ETC. 



FISH AND SHELL-FISH. 



DAIRY PRODUCTS. 



Milk ■ 

Buttsr - 

Cheese, fvill cream..* 
Cheese, skim milk.. .■ 
Oleomargarine - 

Asparagus ■ 

Beans, Lima, green." 
Beans, string, green.- 

Beans, dried ■ 

Beets ■ 

Cabbage 

Carrots • 

Cauliflower ■ 

Cucumber ■ 

Corn, sweet, green .■ 
Com, sweet, canned- 
Egg Plant - 

Lettuce ■ 

Onions ■ 

Okra ■ 

Peas, green - 

Peas, dried ■ 

Potatoes - 

Potatoes, sweet - 

Pumpkin - 

Rice ■ 

Spinach ■ 

Squash ■ 

Turnips - 

Tomatoes - 

Barley, pearl - 

Flour, graham - 

Flour, entire wheat.- 
Flour, bucKwneat.. .- 

Flovir, rye - 

Flour, wheat - 

Cornmeal - 

Oatmeal ■ 

White hominy ■ 

Buckwheat farina. . .- 

Bread, graham - 

Bread, rye ■ 

Bread, wheat - 

Boston crackers - 

Graham crackers « 

Oatmeal crackers - 

Apples ■ 

Bananas - 

Blackberries - 

Cherries ■ 

Cocoanuts - 

Cranberries m 

Grapes ■ 

Lemons ■ 

Peaches ■ 

Pineapples ■ 

Strawberries ■ 

Watermelon b 

Whortleberries - 

Walnuts _ 



VEGETABLES. 



CEREALS, ETC. 



FRUITS, 



TABLE SHOWING THE COMPAKATIVE AMOUNT OF NUTRIMENT "WHIC:^ 
25 CENTS WILIi BUY WHEN INVESTED IN DIEFEKENT FOODS. 

The following table shows at a glance the comparative amount of nntriment 
which 25 cents will buy when invested in different foods at the ordinary retail 
prices in the city. In studying the table, however, the advantage of a variety in 
food should be borne in mind, as the fruits furnish the system with acids, and 
fresh vegetables furnish potash and other salts which are of the highest value. A 
thorough knowledge of the nutritive value of foods will enable many people to 
make a material saving in their household expenses. 
MEATS, ETC. 

Beef, brisket of ^..^ , ■ , ■ 

Beef, dried ai^_^ 

Beef, flank of ■_«---— --^—-i---------™--^™™--™™--™-— 

Beef, neck of ^___»_« 

Beef, ribs of — i^i— — ™^ 

Beef, shoulder of. . ..„,^b_h,^ 

Beef, sirloin of ,■„__, 

Beef, round of ■■=■■.■ 

Beef, liver of __«__« 

Beef, heart of _^.._i_i.i— «i».«— 

Beef, tongue of ____^ 

"Veal, shoulder of. . .____■ 
Mutton, breast "f 

Mutton, flank of. . n .i,,, , mi,, 

Mutton, leg of .^iiii™.— ™i 

Mutton, neck of . . . . .■■■■..■■i.n f^ -' 

Mutton, loin of _^_^_— . 



Mutton.shoulder of. 

Lamb, leg of _ 

Lamb, loin of ., 

Lamb, neck of „ 

Lamb, shoulder of.. 

Pork, fresh , 

Pork, fat, salt 

Pork, smoked ham. 

Sausage, pork , 

Tripe, soused , 

Chicken , 

Turkey _ 

Hen's Eggs, „ 



Bluefish.... 

Cod 

Eels 

Flounder . . 
Haddock .. 
Halibut.... 

Herring 

Mackerel . . 

Perch 

Pickerel . . . 

Salmon 

Shaa 

Smelts 

Swordfish. 

Trout 

Whitefish . 

Clams 

Crabs 

Oysters.... 
Lobsters. .. 
Shrimp .... 



FISH AND SHELX,=FISH. 



DAIRY PBODUCTS. 



Milk 

Butter 

Oleomargarine 

Cheese, full cream., 
Cheese, skim milk. 



VEGETABLES. 



Asparagus 

Beans, lima, green.. 

Beans, dried 

Beets 

Cabbage 

Carrots ■ 

Cauliflower 

Cucumber 

Com, sweet, green. 

Lettuce 

Onions 



Peas, dried 

Potatoes 

Potatoes, sweet. 

Pumpkin 

Rhubarb 

Rice 

Spinach 

Squash 

Turnips 

Tomatoes 



Apples. 



Blackberries. 

Cherries 

Cranberries. . 



Grapes 

Lemons 

Pineapples 

Strawberries.. 
Watermelons 



Barley, pearl.. 
Flour, graham . 



CEREALS, ETC. 



Flour, entire wheat. 
Flour, buckwheat.. 

Flour, rye 

Flour, wheat , 

Commeal _ 

Oatmeal , 

White hominy , 

Buckwheat farina. „ 

Bread, graham 

Bread, rye _ 

Bread, wheat _ 

Boston crackers..., 
Graham crackers... 
Oatmeal crackers.- 



10 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 



NoTTOE. — The standard of measure which we have adopted in this book is the 
ordinary coffee cup, which holds \^ pint. Where not otherwise specified, we al- 
ways mean that by a cup. Of course the size of the cups and spoons in actual use 
vary somewhat, and extraordinary dampness or dryness of the materials will affect 
their weight, but these tables are as accurate as we can make them. In making up 
any recipe, using the same measure throughout will keep the proportions correct. 

Before measuring sugar, meal, flour, soda, salt and spices, they should be sifted. 
Materials like baking powder or mustard, which have been packed, should be 
stirred and crushed if you do not sift them. - 

To get ^ a spoonful, fill the spoon, divide it through the center lengthwise, 
and use one=half. To get an even spoonful of any dry material, fill the spoon and 
level it off with a knife. A heaping spoonful is all it will hold. To get a spoon- 
ful, fill the spoon and shake it a little until it is slightly rounded on top. 

As a cup is smaller at the bottom than at the top, J^ a cup does not mean to 



fill it 3^ the way up, but a little more than that. The tin measuring cups holding 
3^ pint, and divided into fourths and thirds, are the best to use; they can be pur- 
chased at tin or hardware stores. 

Throughout the work, to save space, we drop off the "fnl" in such words as 
"cupful," "tablespoonful," etc., and write simply "cup," "tablespoon," etc. We 
always mean full measure unless we add the word " heaping," or " scant." 



COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD. 

Almonds: — 1 cup, shelled, weighs 7 

ounces. 
Babley: — 1 cup weighs 4 ounces; I 

tablespoon, heaped, 3^ ounce.' 
Bbead cbumbs, grated: — 1 cup weighs 

' 2 ounces. 
Buttee: — 1 even cup, hard or melted, 

weighs 7 ounces; 2 /tiM cups weigh 

1 pound; a rounded tablespoon 
weighs 1 ounce; the "size of an 
^%^ " weighs 2 ounces. 

Citbon: — 1 cup of chopped weighs 7 

ounces. 
Coffee, ground: — 4 cups weigh 1 

pound; 1 cup weighs 4 ounces; 

2 rounded tablespoons weigh 1 
ounce. 

Coenmeal: — 1 even cup weighs IJ^ 
ounces; a heaping tablespoon i^ 
ounce, 

Coensstaboh: — 1 cup weighs 5 ounces; 
a heaping tablespoon y^ ounce; 3 
cups equal 1 pound. 

Cubeants: — 1 cup, cleaned and dried, 
weighs 6 ounces. 

Dates: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. 

Eggs: — 10 eggs, average size (or 9 if 
very large) weigh 1 pound; 1 white 
of egg weighs about 1 ounce, and 
1 yolk about 1 ounce. 

Figs: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. 

FiiOXTB (wheat, well sifted always): — 1 
quart, heaped, weighs 1 pound; 
1 cup, level, weighs 4 ounces, or 6 
ounces when heaped; 4 cups equal 
1 pound or 1 quart; 1 tablespoon, 
heaped, holds 1 ounce; 1 teaspoon, 
heaped, "% ounce. 

Labd: — Same as butter. 



COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD -Continued 

Meat: — 1 solid cup of chopped meat 
weighs 8 ounces; a pint = l pound. 

Nutmegs: — 5 medium sized nutmegs 
weigh 1 ounce. 

Peunes: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. 

Raisins: — 1 cup weighs '% pound, or 8 
ounces. 

Rioe: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 
1 tablespoon, heaped, 3^ ounce. 

Salt: — A " pinch '' = 1 saltspoon. 

Sago: — Icup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 
1 tablespoon, heaped, 3^ ounce. 

Suet: — Same as butter. 

SuGAB, granulated, or dry brown: — 1 
cup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 1 
tablespoon, heaped, 1 ounce. Pow- 
dered sugar: — 23^ cups equal 1 lb. 

Tea: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 2 ounces; 
1 tablespoon, heaped, weighs 3^ 
ounce; 1 teaspoon, heaped, 3^ 
ounce. 

Walnuts: — 1 cup, shelled, weighs 7 
ounces. 



LIQUIDS. 

Ceeam: — 1 cup holds 3^ pint and 

weighs 7 ounces. 
Milk: — 1 cup holds Yz pi^i*' ^"^^ weighs 

8 ounces. 
Molasses:—! cup holds 3^ pint and 

weighs 12 ounces. 
Vinegab: — 1 cup holds 3^ pint and 

weighs 8 ounces. 
Watee: — 1 cup holds % pint and 



weighs 
pound. 



ounces; 2 cups weigh 1 



MEASURING CUPS, ETC. 

Cup: — 1 cup holds 2 gills, or \/^ pint, 
or 8 ounces of liquid; or 16 table- 
spoons of liquid; 4 cups of liquid 
equal 1 quart; 4 cups of flour 
equal 1 quart or 1 pound; 1 cup 
holds 4 ounces of coffee or 2 
ounces of tea. 

Basting = spoon: — 4 basting * spoons 
make 1 cupful; 1 basting=spoon 
equals 4 tablespoons or 8 tea- 
spoons. 

Saltspoon: — 4 saltspoons of liquid 
equal 1 teaspoon. 

Tablespoon: — 1 tablespoon holds 3^ 
ounce of water; 8 tablespoons 
liquid make 1 gill; 16 tablespoons 
of liquid make 1 cupful; 12 table- 
spoons, or 8 heaping tablespoons, 
of dry material equal 1 cup; 4 
tablespoons of liquid make 1 
■wineglass; 8 tablespoons of liquid 
make 1 gill; 2 rounded table- 
spoons equal 1 ounce of flour or 
coffee; 1 tablespoon, heaped, holds 
3^ ounce barley, cornmeal, corn= 
starch, ground spice, sago, sugar 
or coffee, and 34 ounce of tea. 

Teaspoon: — 4 teaspoons of liquid equal 
1 tablespoon; 3 teaspoons of dry 
material equal 1 tablespoon. 1 
teaspoon holds 34 ounce of coffee 
and % ounce of tea. 

A TUMBLES, common size, holds 3^ 
pint, or 8 fluid ounces, or 1 cup. 

A WINE glass, common size, holds % 
gill, or 2 fluid ounces, or % cup. 



AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 

16 drams ( dr.) make 1 ounce (oz.). 

16 ounces make 1 pound (R).). 

25 pounds make 1 quarter (qr.). 

4 quarters make 1 hundred weight 

(cwt.). 
20 hundred weight make 1 ton (T.). 



LIQUID OR WINE MEASURE. 

4 gills make 1 pint (pt.). 
2 pints make 1 quart (qt.). 
4 quarts make 1 gallon (gal.). 
313^ gallons make 1 barrel (bbl.). 
63 gallons make 1 hogshead (hhd.). 
2 hogsheads make 1 pipe or butt (pi.). 



DRY MEASURE. 

2 pints make 1 quart. 
8 quarts make 1 peck. 
4 pecks make 1 bushel. 
8 bushels make 1 quarter. 



CLOTH MEASURE, 

234 inches make 1 nail. 
4 nails make 3^ yard. 

4 quarters make 1 yard. 

3 quarters make 1 Ell Flemish. 

5 quarters make 1 Ell English. 

Cloth Measure is little used at pres- 
ent. In measuring goods sold by the 
yard, it is divided into halves, quart- 
ers, eighths and sixteenths. 



LINEAR MEASURE. 

12 inches=^l foot. 

3 feet = l yard. 

5% yards=:l rod or pole. 

40 rods — 1 furlong. 

8 furlongs = 1 mile. 
3 miles = l league. 

3 barley=corns=l inch. 

3 inches = l palm. 

4 inches=:l hand. 

9 inches = l span. 

21.888 inches = l sacred cubit. 

18 inches = l English cubit. 

11 feet = l great cubit. 

6 feet = l fa,hom. 

120 fathoiiij=l cable's length. 

6086.7 feet=l knot. 

3 feet=l pace. 

1,152% common miles = l geographi- 
cal mile. 

3 geographical miles=l league. 

60 geographical miles=:l degree. 

360 degrees = the circumference of the 
globe. 



THE METRIC SYSTEM. 

Measures of Weights. 

1 milligramme=0.015432 grains. 
1 gramme = 15.432 grains. 
1 decagramme = 0.02204G pounds. 
1 hectogramme = 0.22046 pounds. 
1 kilogramme=:2.2046 pounds. 
1 myriagramme = 22.046 pounds. 

Measures of Capacity. 
1 millilitre=0.0610 cubic in.=338 fluid 

oz. 
1 litre = 1.0567 quarts. 
1 dekalitre = 2.6417 gallons. 
1 kektolitre = 26.4175 gallons = 2.84 

bushels. 
1 kilolitre = 264.175 gallons = 2837 

bushels. 

Measures of Length. 

1 millimetre=0.03937 inch. 
1 centimetre=:0.3937 inch. 
1 metre = 39.37 inch. 
1 decametre = .32.809 feet. 
1 hectometre= 328.09 feet. 
1 kilometre = .6213 mile. 
1 myriametre=6.2138 mile. 



MEDICINAL TERMS AND APOTHECA- 
RIES WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 



60 minims (M) or drops=l fluidrachm 

(/ 3.) 
8 fluidrachms=l fluid ounce (/ §.) 
16 fluid ounces=l pint (O.) 
8 pints = 1 gallon {Cong.) 

Weights. 

20 grains (gr, xx) = l scruple (3 or 

sc.) 
3 scruples (3 iij)=l drachm (3 or 

dr.) 
8 drachms (3 viij) = l ounce (§ or oz.) 
12 ounces (| xij) = l pound (lb.) 

Physicians in writing prescriptions 
use the Roman numerals instead of 
figures, but the small letters only, 
which they precede by the symbols. 
They write j for i when it terminates 
a number. Thus § Tij meaas 7 ounces, 
3 xiy means 14 scruples, etc. R is an 
abbreviation for recipe, or take; P 
fox particula, or little part; q. s. quan- 
tity sufficient; P. seq. for equal parts; 
q. p. as much as you please; gr. for 
grain; ss. for semi; a, aa. for equal 
quantities; ii for 2; gtt is a drop; Cong, 
is an abbreviation of congius, the latin 
for gallon; O. for octarius, the latin for 
one=eighth. The minim is equal to a 
drop of water; a pint of water weighs 
ft pound. 



MISCELLANEOUS TABLES 

COMPRISING VARIOUS THINGS 

WORTH KNOWING. 

Counting. — 12 units make a dozen; 
12 dozen make a gross; 12 gross make 
a great gross. 20 units make a score. 

Papbb. — 24 sheets make 1 quire; 20 
quires make 1 ream; 2 reams make 1 
bundle. 

Books. — A sheet of paper folded in 
two leaves makes a folio or 4 pages; 
in 4 leaves a quarto, 4 to, or 8 pages; 
in 8 leaves an octavo, 8 vo, or 16 
pages; in 12 leaves, a duodecimo, 12 
mo, or 24 pages; in 16 leaves, a 16 
mo, or 32 pages; in 18 leaves an 18 
mo, or 36 pages. These terms are 
applied without regard to the size of 
the sheet folded, which may vary 
widely. 



MISCELLANEOUS TABLES 

(Continued.) 

Apples, dried, a bushel=:22 to 28 

lbs.* 
Apples, green, a bushel=50 Ibs.^ 
Beets, a bushel=50 to 60 lbs.* 
Barley, a bushel=48 Ibs-f 
Beans, a bushel=60 lbs.* 
Bran, a bushel=20 lbs. 
Buckwheat, a bushelr=40 to 52 lbs.* 
Butter, a firkin=56 lbs. 
Carrots, a bushel=50 to 55 lbs.* 
Charcoal, a bushel=:22 lbs. 
Clover seed, a bushel = 60 lbs. 
Corn, a bushel, shelled = 56 Ibs.^j" 
Corn, a bushel, unshelled^TO or 68 

lbs.* 
Cornmeal, a bushel=48 Ibs.f 
Cranberries, a bushel=33 Ibs.f 
Feathers, a bale=about 1 cwt. 
Flaxseed, a bushel=56 lbs. 
Fish, a quintal = 100 lbs. 
Fish, a barrel=200 lbs. 
Flour, a barrel=196 lbs. 
Hempseed, a bushel=44 lbs. 
Hickory=nuts, a bushel=60 lbs. 
Honey, a gal]on = 12 lbs. 
Meat, a stone=80 lbs. 
Molasses, a hogshead = 130tol50 gals.* 
Oats, a bushel= 32 Ibs.j 
Onions, a bushel=:48 to 57 lbs.* 
Parsnips, a bushel = 155 lbs.| 
Peaches, dried, a bushel=28 to 33 lbs.* 
Peas, dried, a bushel=60 lbs. 
Peas, in pod, a bushel=:32 lbs.* 
Popcorn, a bushel=70 lbs. 
Potatoes, a bushel=60 lbs. 
Potatoes, sweet, a bushel=50 lbs.* 
Pork, a barrel=200 lbs. 
Rice, a barrel=600 lbs. 
Raisins, a barrel = 112 lbs. 
Rye, a bushel = 56 lbs. 
Salt, a barrel=280 lbs. 
Salt, a bushelrr:70 lbs. 
Soap, a barrel=256 lbs. 
Soap, a box = 56 lbs. 
Sugar, a barrel=200 to 250 lbs.* 
Tea, a chest = 60 to 84 lbs.* 
Timothy seed, a bushel=45 lbs."}" 
Tobacco, a hhd. = 168 lbs. 
Turnips, a bushel = 55 Ibs-t 
Wheat, a bushel=r60 lbs. 
Wood, a tod = 28 lbs. 



■f" In most states, but varies. 
* Varying in difl'erent states. 



DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. 

Coal produces 1000° F.; wood (hard) 
800° to 900°; charcoal (ordinary) 700°; 
charcoal (willow) 600°. 



TIME TABLES FOR COOKING. 

TIME TO COOK MEATS. 

Beef, brisket of, boiled gently, about 30 minutes per lb. 

Beef, corned, boiled gently, about 31 minutes per lb. 

Beef, fillet of, rare, in moderate oven, | to 1 hour. 

Beef, rib=roast, rolled, rare, in moderate oven, 10 minutes per lb. 

Beef, sirloin, roasted in oven, rather underdone, 9 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, leg of, roasted, rather rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, loin of, roasted, rare, 9 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, saddle of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, shoulder, staffed, roasted, well done, 16 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, leg of, boiled, gently, 17 minutes per lb. 

Veal, fillet of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 

Veal, loin of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 17 minutes per lb. 

Veal, shoulder, stuffed, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes 

per lb. 
Pork, leg of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 
Pork, loin of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 18 minutes per lb. 
Pork, shoulder of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 
Liver, roasted, well done, in moderate oven, about 2 hours. 
Bacon, boiled gently, 15 minutes per lb. 
Ham, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. 
Tripe, boiled, nearly 5 hours. 

Meat for bouillon, simmer gently, 35 minutes per lb. 
Tongue, salted, boiled, 3 to 4 hours. 

TIME TO COOK POULTKY, ETC. 

Chicken, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. 

Chicken, roasted in oven, 20 minutes per lb. 

Duck, baked in hot oven, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Duck, roasted, full growth, f to 1 hour; duckling 25 to 35 minutes. 

Fowl, old, boil gently, 20 to 80 minutes per lb. 

Fowl, old, roasted, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. 

Goose, roast, 1 to If hours, according to size. 

Grouse, roasted in oven, 30 to 35 minutes. 

Partridge, roasted in oven, 25 to 35 minutes. 

Pigeons, roasted, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Prairie Chicken, broiled, 4 to 6 minutes. 

Quail, broiled, 4 to 6 minutes. 

Kabbit, roasted in oven, -J to f hour. 

Turkey, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. 

Turkey, roasted in oven, 3 hours for an 8 lb. turkey. 

Venison, haunch of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

Venison, saddle of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

TI]\IE TO COOK VEGETABLES. 

Artichokes, globe, boiled, ^ to 1 hour, according to age, etc. 
" Jerusalem, boiled, ^ to ^ hour, according to size. 

Asparagus, boiled, 15 to 25 minutes. 
Beans, shelled, boiled, 1 hour or more according to age. 
Beans, shelled, baked, 8 to 10 hours in moderate oven. 



TIME TO COOK VEGETABLES— (Continued.) 

Beans, string, boiled, 1 to 3 hours, according to age, etc. ' 

Beans, boiled, if young, about 1 hour; if old 2 to 4 hours. 

Brocoli, boiled, about ^ hour. 

Brussels sprouts, boiled, 10 to 20 minutes. 

Cabbage, winter, 1 hour or more; young, quartered, -| to f hour; sliced 

^ hour. 
Carrots, boiled, if young | to | hour; old, whole, 1 hour or more. 
Cauliflower, boiled, 15 to 35 minutes. 
Celery, boiled, ^ hour. 
Corn, green, boiled, 20 to 25 minutes. 
Cucumbers, boiled, 12 to 15 minutes. 
Endive, stewed, 5 to 10 minutes. 
Kohlrabi, boiled, 15 to 20 minutes. 
Lentiles, boiled, 2 hours or more. 
Lettuce, steamed, 10 or 15 minutes. 
Mushrooms, stewed, about J hour. 
Okra, boiled, ^ hour or more. 

Onions, boiled, if young ^ to 1 hour; if old 2 hours or more. 
Parsnips, boiled, if small ^ to 1 hour; large, 1 to IJ hours. 
Peas, green, boiled, \ hour or more, according to age, etc. 
Potatoes, boiled, 25 to 35 minutes. 
Potatoes, baked, f to 1 hour. 
Sweet potatoes, boiled, f to 1 hour. 
Sweet potatoes, baked, 1 to 1| hours. 
Pumpkin, stewed, 4 to 5 hours. 
Salsify, boiled, about 1 hour. 
Sea^kale, boiled, 15 to 20 minutes. 
Sorrel, scalded, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Spinach, covered closely, about 1 hour. 
Squash, boiled, 20 to 30 minutes. 
Squash, baked, about 1 hour. 
Tomatoes, baked, -I to f hour. 
Tomatoes, stewed, i to | hour. 

Turnips, boiled, if young 15 to 20 minutes ; if old f to 1^ hours. 
Yams, boiled, f to 1 hour. 

TIME TO BAKE. 

Beans, 8 to 10 hours. 

Beef, sirloin, rare, 8 to 10 minutes per lb. 

Beef, sirloin, well done, 12 to 15 minutes per lb. 

Beef, long or short fillet, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. 

Beef, rolled rib or rump, 12 to 15 minutes per lb. 

Biscuit, 10 to 20 minutes. 

Bread, brick loaf, 40 to 60 minutes. 

Cake, thin, 15 to 20 minutes; thick, 30 to 40 minutes; fruit, 2 to 3 

hours. 
Cake, sponge, 45 to 60 minutes. 
Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs., 1 to 1^ hours. 
Cookies, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Custards, 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. 
Duck, tame, 40 to 60 minutes. 
Fish, 6 to 8 lbs., 1 hour. 



TIME TO BAKE— (Continued.) 

Gringerbread, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Graham Gems, | hour. 

Lamb, well done, 15 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, rare, 10 minutes per lb. — well done 16 minutes per lb. 

Pies, I to I hour 

Pork, well done, 30 minutes per lb. 

Potatoes, 25 to 40 minutes, according to age etc. 

Pudding, — bread, rice and tapioca, f to 1 hour. 

Pudding, — plum, 2 to 3 hours. 

Rolls, 10 to 15 minutes. 

Turkey, 8 lbs., 3 hours. 

Veal, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 



TIME TO BROIL. 



Chickens, about 20 minutes. 
Chops, 8 minutes. 
Steak, 4 to 8 minutes. 
Fisli, 5 to 15 minutes. 



TIME TO FRY. 



Bacon, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Breaded chops, 4 to 6 minutes. 
Croquettes, 1 to 2 minutes. 
Doughnuts, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Fish balls, 1 minute. 
Fritters, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Muffins, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Small fish, 1 to 3 minutes. 
Smelts, 1 minute. 



BOILING WATER ^Water boils at 212» at sea level. In high altitudes 

the air being lighter, the pressure on top of the water is less, and so it more 
easily rises into vapor. The temperature at which water boils decreases about 
one degree for each 600 feet above sea level. In a vacuum water boils at about 
100°; at an altitude of 6,500 feet it will boil at about 200"; at 9,000 feet, it boils 
at about 194° and so on. Down in a mine, the air pressure on top being greater, 
water boils at a higher temperature. Salt water boils at a higher temperature 
than fresh, its boiling point being about 224° or less, according to its saltness. 
Water is equally hot whether it boils fast or slow, and if fresh it will not rise 
above 212° in an open kettle. In high altitudes longer boiling may compensate 
in part for the lower temperature, but in very high altitudes it is diflScult to boil 
fDod at all. When boiling, the water at the bottom of the kettle is turned to 
vapor by contact with the hot metal, and rises toward the surface: the bubbles 
are condensed by the colder water near the top, if the water only simmers, but in 
boiling water the bubbles of vapor rise to the surface, burst and escape in the form 
of steam. The "bubbling" of the water is caused by this rising vapor. The 
active bubbling which takes place in violent boiling may sometimes be of service 
in cooking, although it is more often objectionable. Violent boiling is a great 
waste of fuel, and many of the more volatile and savory particles of food are 
carried away in the steam, so that, as a rule, it is not desirable iu cookiag. (See 
also "Cooking in High Altitudes" page 358.) 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 

Baking Powdee. — For bread, use 4 even teaspoons to 1 quart of 

flour, or 1 teaspoon to each cup of flour. Cake, made light with 

eggs, needs less. 
Batters. — Use 1 scant cup of liquid to each full cup of flour. 
Beead. — Use 1 scant cup of liquid for 3 full cups of flour. 
Cake. — Yor plain cake use 1 saltspoon of spice and 1 teaspoon oi ex- 
tract for each loaf of usual size, and 1 teaspoon baking powder 

to 2 cups flour. For sponge cake use 1 saltspoon of salt and 1 

teaspoon of extract to 1 ordinary sized loaf. 
Ceeam of Taetae. — Use 2 full teaspoons to 1 level teaspoon of 

soda. 
CuSTAEDS. — Use 1 teaspoon of extract for 1 quart of custard, and 1 

saltspoon of salt to 4 cups of milk. 
Exteact. — Use 1 teaspoon to each loaf of plain or sponge cake, or to 

1 quart of custard. 
Heebs. — In soup, use for flavoring 1 teaspoon of mixed herbs to each 

quart of soup. 
Liquids. — For bread use 1 scant cup to 3 full cups flour; for muffins 

use the same for 2 full cups flour; for batters use the same for 1 

full cup flouf . 
Muffins. — Use 1 scant cup liquid for three full cups flour. 
Peppee. — Use 1 saltspoon of white pepper to 1 quart of soup stock. 
Salt. — Use 1 teaspoon to 2 quarts of flour, or to 1 quart of soup 

stock. Use 1 saltspoon to 1 quart of milk in custards, or to 1 

loaf of sponge cake. 
Soda. — Use 1 even teaspoon to 2 fidl teaspoons of cream of tartar; 

use 1 teasx^oon soda to 1 cup molasses, or 2 cups sour milk. 
Soup. — In soup stock use 1 tablespoon of each chopped vegetable, 1 

teaspoon of mixed herbs, 4 cloves, 4 pepper^corns, 1 teaspoon of 

salt, or 1 saltspoon of white pepper to each quart of stock. For 

each pound of meat and bone use 1 quart of water. 
Spice. — Use 1 saltspoon of any kind for 1 loaf of cake. 
Yeast. — For each 2 cups of liquid used in bread, etc., use 1 cup liquid 

yeast, or | of a yeast cake. 1 cup of liquid yeast is equal to ^ 

cake of compressed yeast. 

17 



ALTERING RECIPES. 

In order to be S2ire of the result, care should be taken in meas- 
uring all the ingredients, to use the exact quantities called for in a 
recipe, but if all the ingredients are changed in the same pi-oportion 
(as for example, using twice as much, or \ or | as much of each one) 
the result will not be afPected. As has been well said by the author 
of '' Quick Cooking," however, except in those cases like the cooking 
of meat and vegetables, the baking of bread, etc., where definite 
chemical laws apply (which cannot be violated without loss) the 
rules of cooking are not absolute and unchangeable. The large class 
of materials combined for producing flavors (as in soups, etc.) can be 
varied indefinitely, according to convenience and the materials at 
hand. Whenever you get hold of a recipe calling for numerous ar- 
ticles for flavoring, some of which you do not have, you can often use 
the recipe, putting in the flavorings you do have, or substituting 
others for those you lack, and still produce a very good dish, although 
it will, of course, be a new one — or, if not judiciously done, it may not 
be so good! Those who have mastered the principles of cookery and 
acquired a little experience can devise many new and excellent 
recipes. 

INTOXICATING LIQUORS. 

In all recipes contained in the department of cookery, which ad- 
vised the use of intoxicating liquors, we have substituted fruit juices 
— often using orange or lemon juice. Nothing can excel the unfer- 
mented juices of fruits as a flavoring, or for giving a desirable pi- 
quancy to various dishes. They make an almost perfect substitutute 
for liquors, and for obvious reasons are much safer for family use. 
Fruit juice can be easily substituted for liquor in any recipe by those 
who desire to do so. In fruit cake, \ cup or 10 tablespoons of mo- 
lasses is equal to 1 wine glass of brandy or other liquor. Those so 
disposed can substitute molasses for liquor in this way in any such 
recipe found in books, magazines or newspajDers; a cake thus made 
will be quite as good as though the liquor was used. As the alcohol 
evaporates in baking, however, liquors are not so objectionable in 
cakes as in sauces. 

18 



SOUPS. 

OUPS are of 2 kinds; the heavy, rich soups, made from stock 
prepared the day before, with the addition of other ingre- 
dients on the day of serving, and plain soups, made entirely 
in the morning before dinner. These latter will, no doubt, 
be more useful for ordinary occasions, being lighter, and quite as 
palatable, and they certainly are more economical than those made 
from stock. 

Soups are made by cooking meat, fish or vegetables in water or 
milk, and they are seasoned with a great variety of flavorings. If 
you see a recipe calling for a great variety of ingredients, many of 
which you do not have, you will find that you can often use what 
ingredients you do have and still produce a very good soup, as many 
of the ingredients can be omitted without much loss — it will simply 
change the flavor a little. Kemember that the 2 important points 
with soups are, (1) their nutritive properties, which are extracted 
from the meat, fish, etc., and (2) the flavoring derived from herbs, 
spices, etc., added for that purpose. Some soups will contain a good 
deal of nourishment and others very little; some will be very highly 
and others only slightly flavored. 

The names are often given to soups because of their principal 
ingredients, as with "Beef," "Chicken," "Potato," or "Cabbage 
Soup," and sometimes because of the color, as "White," or "Brown 
Soup," while often they are purely fanciful. By bearing these 
things in mind, and by studying the principles involved in extract- 
ing the nutritive properties from the flsh or meat, the inexperienced 
cook can soon, master the mysteries of soup making, and she can then 
easily make new and appetizing combinations for herself. 

The Utensils Used. — The soup^kettle or stock-pot for an ordinary 
family should hold from 6 quarts to 2 gallons. The allowance of 
soup for each person is a half pint, and unless the family is very 
large, a kettle of this size will give ample room for a full supply, 
after straining from the soup material. The best kettle is made of 
aluminum, and iron is next, and if kept scrupulously clean (as all- 
cooking utensils should be) it will not discolor the soup. If any- 
thing should happen to turn color in it, there is nothing 'harmful in 
the oxide of iron, whereas, some articles of food are made poisonous 
if prepared in brass, copper, or lead, especially acid foods, if allowed 

19 



20 SOUPS 

to stand in those vessels. The soup^kettle should be high in propor- 
tion to the size, as only a small surface in contact with the hot range 
is needed for the long, slow simmering required in the preparation of 
soups. A kettle of that form takes less room on the range, and when 
dinner is being prepared, this is desirable. 

Other utensils used in the preparation of soups are, 1 coarse and 
1 fine colander, and 2 or 3 squares of cheese cloth for strainers. The 
cloth strainer should be boiled in water with a little cooking=soda 
added. If boiled in soap, the odor is apt to remain in the cloth, 
giving a bad flavor to the soup. 

The Principles Involved in Soup Making. — Many cooks have little idea 
of the principles involved in extracting the nutritive properties from 
meat, but they are quite simple, and are as follows:* Fibre, fat, 
gelatine and albumen, with extractives and salts (to which some 
writers give the name of osmazome) , are the component parts of all 
meats. Fibres swell up and soften when subjected to the action of 
hot water. They are a valuable and nourishing food, but are insolu- 
ble in water, and constitute nearly all that remains of meat after long 
boiling. Fat is dissolved by boiling, but as it is contained in cells 
covered by a very fine membrane which never dissolves, a portion of 
it always adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the sur- 
face of the stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which 
were not whole, or which have burst by boiling. Fat is also added 
to thickened soups, where it combines with starch and does not rise 
to the surface. The gelatine is soluble in water, and is the basis and 
nutritious portion of soup stock. It is the gelatine which, when 
enough of it is present, causes the stock to become a jelly when cold. 

Albumen surrounds the fibres of meat in its soluble state, just as 
it exists in an unboiled egg. It is soluble in cold or tepid water, but 
it begins to coagulate at 145° and sets into a jelly at 160°, for which 
reason it is evident that if the water is boiling when the meat is put 
in, or if it is afterwards made to boil up quickly, the albumen will 
harden, and will form a thin case or shell which will prevent the gel- 
atine and osmazome from dissolving, and the result will be a thin 



*Count Rumford, writing of his experiments in feeding the Bavarian army, 
says: "I constantly found that the richness or quality of a soup depended 
more upon the proper choice of the ingredients, and the proper management 
of the lire in the combination of these ingredients, than upon the quantity of 
solid nutritious matter employed; much more upon the art and skill of the 
cook than upon the sums laid out in the market." To which we may add, 
that the poor suffer more from the common lack of skill than the rich, be- 
cause they are least able to bear the losses it entails, and therefore we say, 
that to no class is a clear understanding of the principles of cookery bo im- 
portant as to the poor. 



SOUPS 21 

and tasteless stock. Albumen partially dissolved, makes the cloudy 
appearance of soup and jelly; coagulated albumen is removed a£ 
scum. Scum is wasted food. It is well also to know that the size of 
the piece of meat affects the solubility of the albumen, as the part 
farthest from the surface will receive enough heat to be coagulated 
before it is dissolved, if the piece is large. The extractives and salts 
(osmazome) are soluble in water, cold or hot, and they give flavor 
and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals contains more 
than that of young ones, and brown meats contain more than white 
and make the stock more fragrant. By roasting meat, a portion is 
converted to caramel; thefore, by putting the remains of roast meats 
in the stock^pot a better flavor is obtained. Choose lean rather than 
fat meat for soup. See also what we say elsewhere about the princi- 
ples involved in cooking meats. 

Bones are composed of ossein, a gelatinous, fatty fluid some- 
thing like marrow, and an earthy substance, to which they owe their 
solidity. As much gelatinous matter is contained in 2 oz. of bone as 
in 1 lb. of meat, but it is so incased in the earthy substance, that usu- 
ally only the surface is dissolved in boiling water; when the bones 
are broken, there are more surfaces, and more gelatinous matter is 
dissolved; and by reducing the bones to powder, all the gelatinous 
matter can be obtained. Long continued boiling is, therefore, needed 
for bones, aud this boiling should continue until the earthy matter is 
full of little empty holes where the gelatinous matter once was, and 
until the bone has lost | of its weight. They should boil for days 
rather than hours. The best way to break bones is to pound them 
roughly in an iron mortar, adding a little water from time to time to 
prevent their heating. It is a great saving to thus utilize bones 
which are often entirely wasted. If the bones are finely broken, tie 
them up in a bag and put them in the stock^pot. Now gelatine 
forms the basis of stocks, but although nourishing, it is without taste, 
and so stock made entirely of it, is not liked. Flavoring and salts are 
needed to make it palatable, and when meat and vegetables are add- 
ed to the cooking bones, they make the stock savory. 

Stock — When meat is used solely to make stock, cut it into very 
small pieces, put it into cold water, and heat very slowly; but if you 
wish to have stock and a piece of savory meat also, choose the fresh- 
est meat, and have it cut as thick as possible, for if it is a thin, flat 
piece, if will not look well, and will be soon spoiled by the boiling. 
It is impossible, however, to have Jiist rate stock and good boiled 
meat at the same time, as the two objects are diametrically opposed. 



22 . SOUPS 

As it extracts all the juices from the surface of meat to wash it, that 
should never be done unless it is absolutely necessary. Add cold 
water, and put the stock=x)ot on a gentle fire and heat it gradually. 
The albumen will dissolve if it is never heated above 160°, and will 
not coagulate, but as, in this state, it is much lighter than water, it 
will rise to the surface, and this is what makes the scum. The ris- 
ing of the hardened albumen (scum) has the same effect in clarify- 
ing stock as the white of eggs (which is albumen) and, as a rule, it 
may be said, that the more scum there is, the clearer the stock will 
be. If you want clear stock, remove the scum when it rises thickly. 
Do not let the stock boil fast, because then part of the scum will 
be dissolved and another part will go to the bottom, thus making 
it difficult to obtain a clear broth. Always try to have the fire very 
regular, as then it will not be necessary to add cold water in order 
to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too warm at first, that will be 
necessary. If fried onions are added to stock, tie them in a bag, as 
they may cloud it without this precaution. Generally speaking, the 
longer the stock simmers, the better it will be. 

Removing Fat — The English and Americans prefer soup with the 
fat removed; it has become the fashion and the fat is thought to look 
badly, but the fat is food, and quite nutritious. The common people 
on the continent prefer their soup covered with "eyes" (fat). The 
scum is coagulated albumen, and if clean meat was used, the scum 
will not be objectionable; it is certainly nutritious, and to throw it 
away is clear waste. Its presence is not noticable in thickened soups 
as it is mingled in and hidden by the other ingredients. Those who 
want clear soux)s can easily make them, but it is well to understand 
that they are less nutritious than others. In invalid cookery the fat 
is removed because the stomach is then weak, and often not able to 
digest it, but with healthy people the case is different. 

When it is desired to remove the fat, soup can be allowed to 
stand until next day, and it can then all be taken off; then the soup 
can be re=warmed. Or any surplus fat on the surface of souj) may 
be removed (after skimming off as much as x^ossible with a spoon) 
by drawing a piece of blotting paper across it, which will remove all 
the remaining fat. Or to take fat from soups, sauces, etc., thor- 
oughly wet a cloth with cold water and pour the stock through it; 
the coldness of the cloth will coagulate the fat, which will collect on 
the cloth; repeat if necessary; if any particles of fat remain, take 
them off with blotting paper as above. The fat on the cloth can be 
removed and clarified, and is good for many purposes. 




SOUPS 23 

Flavorings — Add vegetables used for flavoring about an hour 
before serving soup; that is, do not add them until the juices are 
nearly extracted trom the meat. Wash and pare the vegetables, cut 
them into small pieces, and keep them in cold water until ready to 
add them to the soup. They can be first blanched or parboiled if 
very strong or old. If desired^ a part or all of the vegetables can be 
fried before being added to the soup; potatoes, 
cabbages and onions are better for being boiled 
in separate water before being added. Pars- 
ley, summer savory and celery are also often 
used; onions and garlic we speak of in a 
following paragraph. Some cooks occasionally 
use cloves, basil, bay leaf, nutmeg, etc. For a 
variety, try a little caraway seed in potato soup. 
Just before serving, add the salt and pepper. 

Sweet Basil is a tender annual, a native of Asia. 
The leaves and leafy tops are highly aromatic, and their basil. 

flavor resembles that of cloves. It is much used in 
French cookery, but not much by English or American cooks. 

The flavoring of all food is an important matter and should 
never be slighted. For soups and stews the best rule is to combine 
several flavors without having any one of them too prominent. 

As boiling spoils the flavor of wines and catsups, if they are 
added, it should not be until just before serving. Unless the soup 
is to be thick, no flavor should be added, but if some of the meat 
and vegetables used are fried, it will improve the color and flavor, 
but be sure nothing, either meat or vegetable, is added, which will 
have the taste of being smoked or burnt. 

Great richness may often be given to soups by the addition of 
fried cucumbers. Cut ofp celery leaves, dry them, and put them in a 
tin can, and you will have them the year round to flavor soux^s. 

Using Onions. — Onions, garlic and shallot are disliked by so many 
people, that, in making stock, or any of the quickly made soups, it 
is better to leave them out; but as many people consider soup flavor- 
less without those vegetables, a dish of stewed onions, garlic or shal- 
xot may be cooked separately, and on serving it, a little can be added 
to the soup given to those who like such flavors. In this way, soup 
either with or without onions can be served from the same tureen. 

Onion juice for flavoring can easily be obtained by peeling and 
mincing an onion and squeezing it in an ordinary lemon squeo"er. or 
cheese=cloth. The odor can be removed from the squeezer and knife 
by washing them in cold water. 




24 SOUPS 

Tne Chite is a plant belonging to the same family as the 
leek and onion, being the smallest of the onion tribe. Its 
properties are similar to the onion, and it is used like that in 
soups, sauces, salads, etc., but it is much stronger, and only 
about % as much is needed. 

The Shallot, Shalot ob Eschalot is a native of Pales- 
tine. It was introduced into Europe by the Crusaders. It 
belongs to the same family as the common onion, but its fla- 
vor is stronger, and it does not leave an unpleasant odor 
behind. The leaves of the plant may be cut while growing, 
and used like young onions. It is used for high flavored soups 
and gravies, and is excellent when pickled. Shallot vinegar is 
used for flavoring soups, sauces, hashes, etc. 

Rocambole is oiten called Spanish Shallot, and belongs to 
the order Liliacm. It is very similar to garlic, but is milder. 

Broth can be changed and often improved in fla- shallot. 

vor by using 2 or 3 kinds of meat at the same time; 
for example, with beef a little liver can be added, or with veal a 
piece of ham. 

For seasoning, salt, whole and ground pepper, both black and 
white, cayenne, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace and cinnamon should 
be ready. Whole pepper is always used for white soups, as ground 
pepper makes them look dusty. As herbs and spices are more easily 
removed from soup, by straining, when whole than when ground, it 
is better to use them whole. 

Be chary of seasoning and spices. A little of these things will 
go a long way. But a very little sugar judiciously added will often 
be found to greatly improve the flavor. Never indulge over freely in 
onion or shallot in soups. The condiments should not be added 
until just before the simmering is completed, in any soup, as they 
will harden the meat etc., with which they come in contact. 

Hints, — When the meat, vegetables, etc., are put in the kettle 
add what water will be needed, as it will injure the flavor of soup to 
add more afterwards. 

If too much salt is added by mistake, its taste may be modified 
by adding 2 or 8 teaspoons of vinegar; its acid will partially neu- 
tralize the alkaline salt; then add a little sugar to mask the taste 
of the vinegar. 

No further general directions will be needed for making soups, 
as special directions accompany each recipe. The experienced cook 
can vary the rules according to the tastes of her family, while the 
novice in cookery will find the best results by adhering strictly to the 
recipes as given, as they have been tested and found good. 

STOCK FOR SOUP. 

All meat and bones, scraps and trimmings, used in making stock, 



SOUPS 25 

or plain soup, must be perfectly fresh, for the least taint in the meat 
is sure to sjaoil stock or soup. Soft water is also required, as this ex- 
tracts the juices from the meat, and gelatine from the bones, much 
better than hard water. The proportion of meat and water for stock 
is about 1 pound of meat, bones and trimmings, for 2 quarts of water. 
The slow boiling does not much reduce the quantity, but a little boil- 
ing water may be added from time to time if any appreciable quanti- 
ty has evaporated. When the meat separates from the bones, it can 
be taken out and used in making various side dishes found under the 
head of " Meats " — the bones remaining longer for the extraction of 
gelatine. 

Mutton, lamb and pork are not good for stock, as the flavor of 
the former is unpleasant when re=cooked, and pork is too oily to use 
in this way, although many cooks do use ham bones in soups. Beef 
makes the best stock, as the flesh of mature animals contains more 
osmazome; an old fowl is a great addition to stock. Veal alone 
makes a fine white stock, but not so savory. Bones ought always to 
form a component part in the soup=kettle when making stock, and 
they should be finely broken, in order to extract all the gelatine. 

Watch the stock^pot until it is ready to boil, then carefully take 
off all the scum as fast as it rises. When thoroughly skimmed, set 
back on the range where it will just simmer — do not boil rapidly as 
this hardens the albumen. It may be kept simmering on a gas or 
kerosene stove, if fire is not needed for other purposes. Stock while 
cooking should not be tightly covered. A sieve should be placed 
over the kettle to keep out flies, but close covering prevents the stock 
from being clear. 

The vegetables used in making stock, are turnips, carrots, onions 
or garlic and celery. The meat should slowly cook 4 or 5 hours, and 
the vegetables the last hour, as vegetables should only be added in 
time to become thoroughly done when used in any soup; then strain 
it through the cloth strainer (called by foreign cooks a "tamgiy") 
into a tin pail, or deep tin pan, as it cools more quickly in tin than in 
any other vessel. The pail or pan must be entirely tinned, for if the 
tin is off the vessel, the stock may be discolored by standing in con- 
tact with iron; — the salt in the soup will attack the iron, and cause 
rust. While boiling, the salt does not attack the kettle unless it is 
new and rough, because, after using a smooth kettle for a while, the 
pores of the iron become filled with the fat of the meats cooked in it. 

Place the tin containing the stock in an airy place, iu the shade, 
where it will cool as quickly as possible, and cover it with a sieve to 
keep out the flies. When it is cooled, place it uncovered in the ice 



26 SOUPS 

chest for the fat to rise. The stock should be a firm jelly and will 
keep for a week in the ice chest. The next day after making it, the 
fat can all be removed from the top of the stock, and used in cooking 
vegetables. Wipe the top of the stock with a dry cloth, and then 
with a little cloth wet with extract of cloves to prevent its molding. 

For ordinary cooking, especially in hot weather, it is better to 
make stocK one day, for the soup of the following day, rather than 
take the risk of having it mold or sour. Remember that it must be 
cooled as quickly as possible without other covering than a sieve, 
which facilitates the escape of steam, and consequently the cooling of 
the stock, and at the same time keeps out the flies. If tightly cov- 
ered, and the stock is a long time in cooling, it will ferment and sour, 
when it becomes poisonous. If only beginning to turn, it is said 
that it may be restored by tying some charcoal in a bag, putting it in 
the stock, and then boiling it. 

STOCK NO. 1. 

2 lbs. shin of beef well broken. 1 head of celery. 

2 lbs. knuckle of veal. 4 whole cloves. 

1 gallon cold water. 1 teaspoon of broken white pepper. 

1 large onion. 1 teasxaoon of sugar caramel. 

3 carrots. 1 blade of mace, or a little nutmeg. 
1 turnip. 1 soup bunch; salt. 

STOCK NO. 2. 
1 old fowl. 2 carrots. 

4 lbs. veal bones well broken. 1 turnip. 

1 gallon of cold water. Salt and pepper. 

2 onions. Cloves and herbs. 

STOCK NO. 3. 

4 lbs. beef shin-bones, broken. 3 large carrots. 

1 chicken, 1 turnip. 

1 gallon cold water. Salt and pepper. 

3 large onions. Cloves and herbs. 

VEAL OR WHITE STOCK. 

Wipe 4 lbs, knuckle of veal, break the bones, put it into one gal- 
lon of cold water, heat slowly, and simmer 4 hours, skimming well; 
then add 1 stalk of celery, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf and 1 tablespoon salt, 
and simmer 1 hour longer. It should jelly when cold, and the fat 
can easily be taken off. It can be melted for use and strained 
through cheese-cloth, or flannel, or clarified with egg if necessary and 
it is wanted very clear. 



SOUPS 27 

FISH STOCK. 

Never throw away the water in which fish has been boiled; it is 
valuable for making fish sauce, and also cheap fish soups — {soup 
maigre). Therefore, in boiling fish, or any meats whatever, when 
the broth is, or may be wanted for stock, be careful about putting in 
too much salt. Salt in quantity is not needed for boiling fish — only 
a little to harden it, and the sauce served with it can contain more if 
liked. Many kinds of fish, after boiling in just sufficient water to 
cover them, will leave the broth a hard jelly when it is cold. This of 
course contains nourishment, and the next day can be utilized for a 
fine soup, by adding the bones and remnants of the boiled fish with 
additional seasoning and vegetables. 

Stock, to Clear or Clarify.— For each quart of jellied stock, the 
whites of 2 eggs are required; melt the stock and let it get 
steaming hot, but not boiling; beat the whites of 2 eggs, with the 
shells which have been washed and well crushed, and stir into the 
hot stock, then let it come to the boiling point; set it back on the 
range and simmer 15 minutes; strain through a flannel bag; keep 
returning it through the bag until it runs through bright and clear. 
In cold weather this operation must be near the fire to keep the jelly 
from setting. The bag must be made of fine, thin, new flannel, and 
well scalded in hot water containing a teaspoon of borax, or cooking 
soda. Never use soap in cleaning the bag, or other strainers used in 
making soups or gravies, as the odor of the soap will afPect the 
flavor of the soups. Clearing stock extracts the flavor and nutrition, 
and is not necessary for every-day soups, besides being too expen- 
sive, as well as consuming too much time. The every-day soup only 
needs straining and the removal of superfluous fat. 

To Clarify Soup, when desired, beat the white of an egg 
with a small cup of cold water and add to the soup; simmer for 10 
minutes, and then strain through the " tammy," or cloth strainer. 

Hints — Even very weak stock is much better than water to use 
for soups and gravies, vegetable stock being better than none. 
White stock is made of veal, and of bones which have been boiled 
once or contain only gelatine. The best stock is obtained from the 
freshest meat. 

Soup meat if not boiled too long, can, after cooling, be finely 
chopped, seasoned to taste, and heated again with a piece of butter. 
If not moist enough, 1 or 2 spoonfuls from the soup^kettle may be 
added. This will make a delicious side dish, or nice breakfast dish 
the next morning. 



28 SOUPS 

If a good soup is served (which can be made of the cheapest 
cuts of meat) with bread, it is almost a meal in itself. Then the 
meat can be served as houilli, or minced and made delicious by judi- 
cious seasoning and flavoring — it is much less expensive than the 
heavy and costly large joints. French cookery is proverbially inex- 
pensive, and it is equally renowned for its delicacy. In France just 
this rule of cookery is most often followed. But it should be remem- 
bered that the French do not cook the soup until (dl the osmazome 
and nutrients are extracted from the meat. If cooked until all the 
nutrients are extracted from the fibres, they will be of little value, as 
needed fibre can be obtained more cheaply in other ways, than to 
attempt to make them palatable by adding the other ingredients 
necessary. 

Coloring for Soups. — Amber Color. — The favorite color for soups 
is caramel or scorched sugar (not burned). This not only gives the 
soup a fine amber color but imparts a fine flavor to it. Vegetables 
sliced thin and fried in a very little butter till nicely browned, and 
then put into the soup kettle, will impart an amber color. — Broton. 
Onions fried a dark brown, will, in addition to caramel, give a 
brown color. Many cooks fry a few slices of the soup meat a dark 
brown before the simmering process is begun. — Green. Pounded 
spinach and puree of young green peas color soups green. — Golden 
Color. Saffron will give soups a fine golden color — only a very little 
is needed. — Red. Tomatoes, lobster coral, well pounded, and cochi- 
neal will impart a red color. Pot=marigold, leaves, stems and flowers 
are used by the French to color and flavor soups. 

Lobster Butter — Take lobster coral (not the little red eggs that 
cling to the outside of the lobster, but the red lumps inside when it 
is cut open down to the tail); wash it carefully, removing every mor- 
sel of the flesh or green part, as that may turn it after it is made. 
Add a little butter and pound it in a mortar — the less butter used the 
better, but it must be pounded until perfectly smooth and free from 
grit; then add a little cayenne pepper and nutmeg, which will pre- 
serve it. About half fill jelly glasses with it, set it in the oven till 
thoroughly hot, press it down, pour on a little melted parafine or 
clarified butter, and tie on paper. 

ADDITIONS TO SOUPS. 
Queoelles or Force=Meat, Croutons and Nudels or Noodles are additions 
to soup used by foreign cooks. Curry^powder and various sauces are 
also used for flavoring rich soups for banquets and dinners for cere- 
mony, and can be us ^ ' liked, in the preparation of side dishea 



SOUPS 29 

made from soup=meat, in warming the remains of boiled and roasted 
meat. 

CROUTONS (pronounced kru-tons'). — These are bits of bread 
cut in small diamonds, squares, cubes, or in fanciful shapes. They 
are fried brown in butter, and used in soups, and as a garnish for 
side dishes and entrees of meat. 

FORCEMEAT OR QUENELLES (pronounced kee-nells.)— This 
is made of equal parts of bread-crumbs, beef- suet, and any kind of 
raw meat excepting mutton, lamb, or pork. Poultry and game make 
excellent force-meat, but veal is most commonly used. The suet and 
meat must first be cut finely, then chopped, and lastly pounded to a 
paste in a mortar, with a little salt, pepper and any pulverized herbs, 
if liked. 

To 1 pound of meat and 1 of suet, allow 4 eggs. Beat the eggs 
thoroughly and mix with the paste, and work through a wire sieve or 
fine colander to take out any fibers that may remain in the meat; 
to the strained mixture add the bread=crumbs which have been previ- 
ously dried, pulverized and sifted; then take up the mixture in a tea- 
spoon, and with another teaspoon form and smooth the quenelles in 
shape like a small 
egg; they are then 
dropped in boiling 
water for ten min- 
utes to poach. 

"When a soup is to \ | ^m^J^^ fobmino- quenelles. 

be served with 
them, place them in 

the tureen, and pour the hot soup over them. Another way to pre- 
pare force-meat balls is to shape the above mixture into balls the size 
of marbles, and fry in boiling fat until a light brown. 

SUET DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP— Take 3 cups sifted flour, 
sift in B teaspoons baking powder, and then rub in well 1 cup of 
finely chopped suet; add 1 teaspoon of salt, and enough sweet milk 
to make as stiff as biscuit dough ; then form it into balls about the 
size of oranges, flour them well, and | hour before serving the soup, 
put them in it; the cover should not be taken off, and to make them 
nice they should boil steadily until ready to serve. They make a 
kind of pot^pie. 

NOODLES OR NUDELS.— To 1 egg add a little salt, and Cour to 
make a stiff paste. Eoll out as thin st a wafer, then roll up as you 




30 SOUPS 

would jelly=cake. Slice off the end in fine strings, shake out loosely 
and cook in the soup for 10 minutes before taking it up; or the 
dough may be rolled out a little thicker than pie^crust, and cut in 
rounds with a tiny biscuit cutter; or it may be divided in 2, then 4, 
then 8 parts, and so on until the pieces are the size of a gooseberry 
when rolled in the hand. Roll, and boil them in the soup for 15 
minutes before taking it up. The German nudels are made much 
the same as this, but they use no salt, as that, they think, makes 
them sticky when cooked. 

SOUP=BUNCH — This is a bunch of young onions or leeks, car- 
rots, and various herbs to be found in the market in most large places, 
such as green sage, thyme, marjoram etc.; celery-tops are sometimes 
included. The onions, carrots and other vegetables can be cut in 
pieces for the soup, but the herbs are best folded in thin muslin and 
taken out after 10 minutes simmering in the soup. 

SOUPsBOQUET. — A boquet of herbs for flavoring soups and 
sauces is much used by foreign cooks, and is made of a few sprigs of 
parsley, thyme, celery leaves, 1 or 2 leaves of sage and a bay leaf. 
This may be folded in a small square of tarlatan or other thin cloth, 
and wound with a thread. This can be put in the soup for a little 
time, and all removed without trouble when the soup is served. 

THICKENING FOR SOUP.— Clear soup may be thickened with 
a little corn=starch, and still preserve its transparency. For brown 
soups, browned flpur is much better than the raw for thickening. 
Put into a small sauce=pan ^ lb. of butter and when hot, stir into it 
2 cups of flour. Stir this over the fire till it is pale brown, taking 
care that it does not burn. One large tablespoonful thickens a 
quart of soup. 

Flour, arrowroot, bread-crumbs, sago, rice, oatmeal, barley, 
macaroni and vermicelli are all put into soujp to thicken it. They all 
have this in common, that the soup must actually boil to burst the 
starch granules after they are added. Floury substances must be 
mixed smooth with a little cold water, milk or broth, before being 
added to the bulk of the broth. Eggs, when added, should be 
beaten, mixed with a little of the warm liquid, strained into the soup, 
and not afterwards allowed to boil, lest they harden in tiny lumps, or 
what is iDopularly called " curdle." The yolk is better to use than 
the white. "Body" may be given to soup by adding a little cold 
potato, grated, and mashed potato is sometimes added, mixed smooth 
with a Itttle milk. Flour can be cooked in a little butter and then 



SOUPS 31 

added, which is probably better than first mixing it in cold water as 
above. Barley, when added, should be soaked over night, and then 
stirred in an hour before the soup is done. With rice, use 1 table 
spoon to 1 quart of soup, and add it about 30 minutes before it is 
done. Farina can be sprinkled in a short time before serving, allow- 
ing it to boil a little while. 

CARAMEL FOR SOUP. — Put a teaspoon of sugar in a frying^ 
pan and place on the stove; let it dissolve and brown, but not burn 
When it has turned a bright golden color and begins to smoke, add 
water enough to cover the bottom of the i^an; let it boil up and dis- 
solve the caramel; then pour into the soup for coloring and flavor. 
This is not to be used in any white soup. If you have prepared 
caramel on hand, use that. See our recipe given elsewhere for pre- 
paring it. 

BROWNED CRACKERS — These are a fine addition to soups, 
and with tea or coffee are good for invalids. The crackers are first 
split and a little butter spread on the halves; they are then placed on 
a baking tin, with the split and buttered side up; set them in a hot 
oven, on the top shelf, and they are done when of a delicate yellow- 
ish brown. They need watching very closely, to prevent scorching. 
They are delicious with soups, fish chowder and oyster stews. 

EGQ=BALLS FOR SOUP — Powder some hard=boiled yolks of 
egg, and add sufficient raw yolk to make the mixture into a paste 
that can be rolled; add some pepper, salt, a little finely chopped pars- 
ley, and a "suspicion" of nutmeg; roll into balls the size of marbles. 
Dip the balls into flour and throw them into boiling water till they 
are set; then drain them and throw them into the soup before serv- 
ing. They can also be used to garnish entrees. 

VIRGINIA FLAVORING.— Take thyme, mint, sweet marjoram, 
and rosemary gathered in full perfection; pick from the stalks, put 
them in a large jar, pour on strong vinegar, and let stand 24 hours; 
then take out the herbs, throw in fresh bunches, and do this 3 times; 
then strain the liquor, put it in bottles, cork and seal tight. Do not 
let the herbs stay in more than 24 hours at one time, else a bitter, 
unsavory taste may be imparted. What is wanted, is just the deli 
cate first flavor which comes from steeping the herbs in the liquid 
It makes a delicious flavor for soups and sauces. 



82 VEGETABLE SOUPS 

VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

ALMOND SOUP. — Blanch and pound finely 1 pound of sweet 
almonds, and the yolks of 4 hard boiled eggs; beat these well togeth- 
er, and add to a gallon of hot stock; let it come to boiling and stir 
constantly; thicken with bits of butter rolled in flour, and just before 
serving, add salt to taste, and a coffee cup of rich cream. Have the 
whites of the eggs cut in small pieces in the tureen, pour over it the 
hot soup and serve. Time, 20 minutes. 

ASPARAGUS SOUP — Break off all that is tender from a bundle 
of fresh, green asparagus, and put this in a large pan, with a large 
handful of freshly gathered spinach, 1 of parsley, and the same of 
spring onions. Wash in 2 waters and drain in a sieve; then boil in 

2 quarts of water, with a bit of butter and a little salt. As soon as 
the asparagus is done, rub all through a fine colander and return to 
the pot; then add a piece of butter the size of a small egg (cut in 
bits and rolled in flour), a teaspoon of sugar, and a sprinkle of white 
pepper. Serve hot with croutons. Time, ^ hour. 

BARLEY SOUP. — Scald 10 tablespoons of pearled barley; drain, 
cover with fresh boiling water, and boil 8 hours. Scald a quart of 
rich, sweet milk and add to the barley when done. Season with salt 
and pepper to taste. Beat the yolks of 10 eggs to a foam and put in 
the soup4ureen; pour over the barley soup and serve. 

BEAN SOUP — Soak 1 cup of white beans over night; in the 
morning boil until quite tender; then rub through a colander, and 
add 8 pints of water and 1 quart of rich milk, 2 tablespoons of butter, 

3 large potatoes chopped fine; season with finely cut parsley, pepper 
and salt to taste. Simmer about ^ hour, and serve hot. 

LIMA BEAN SOUP — Soak a pint of dried Lima beans over 
night; turn off the water in the morning, and put on the fire to boil 
slowly for 2 hours, with 3 pints of water; then rub through a colan- 
der. Put in the kettle again and add a pint of milk or cream, and 
thicken with a lump of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, add the 
beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Season with pepper and salt, and serve with 
a Toll at each plate. Time, about 2^ hours. 

BEAN PORRIDGE.— Soak over night a quart of any kind of 
good beans, such as are used for baking; boil them the next morning 
in plenty of water, until they begin to break in pieces; then drain, 
and add them to any good broth of fresh or salted meat, with a few 
slices of salt pork cut in dice. Cook and stir them often, until they 



VEGETABLE SOUPS 6'd 

are all broken fine. This is a rtiost nutritious soup to keep constantly 
on hand in winter, when milk is scarce; it is inexpensive, for the 
broth of all salted meats and "boiled dinners" can be used in prepar- 
ing it. It is more easily digested than baked beans, being less con- 
centrated food. Of this soup it was said in " olden times;" 

"Bean porridge hot, bean porridge cold, 
Bean porridge is the best when nine days old." 

CABBAGE SOUP. — Cut a small cabbage in quarters; carefully 
take apart and wash; then chop finely. About |- hour before dinner 
add it to 2 quarts of stock, or broth, in which meat has been boiled; 
let it boil until dinner time, when the cabbage will be done. Serve 
with toasted bread. 

CARROT SOUP (a la Cressy). — Put a piece of butter the size 
of an egg into the frying-pan, and when melted, add 1 large onion 
cut finely, a slice of ham cut in little squares, a teacup of chopped 
celery and 10 grated carrots. Stew over the fire until the vegetables 
begin to brown, then add 2 quarts of stock, and simmer for 2 hours. 
Rub all through the coarse colander, put back into the kettle to re= 
heat, and season with pepper and salt. Serve with a few dice of 
toasted bread in the tureen. This is good made with 3 pints of 
water, adding a pint of milk or cream when it is re=heated. Time 
about 2^ hours. 

CELERY SOUP — Break apart, and carefully clean 2 bunches 
of celery; then cut it finely and boil in just water enough to cover it, 
until it is soft enough to rub through a coarse colander; scald 3 pints 
of milk and add to the celery, and the water in which it was boiled, 
with half a small onion cut finely if liked; then rub together a table- 
spoon each of butter and flour and stir it in the boiling soup, season 
with salt and pepper to taste, and serve with strips of toasted bread 
without butter, or with browned crackers. Time, about 1 hour. 

CELERY CREAM SOUP— Take 3 lbs. veal, and let it simmer 
slowly in 2 quarts of water till reduced one=half ; when cold it will 
make a jelly4ike white stock. Take some celery, cut the best parts 
small, and cook it until tender in this stock; now put it through a 
colander first, and then through a coarse sieve, and it will make a 
kind of paste; return this to the saucepan, add 2 pints of cream, sea. 
son with pepper and salt, and let it simmer 10 minutes, stirring it 
often. It is excellent. 

GREEN CORN SOUP — Grate sweet-'corn from 6 ears, and 
boil the cobs in sufficient water to cover them; remove them after 10 



34 VEGETABLE SOUPS 

minutes boiling, and use the water in which they are boiled to stew 
the grated corn; just before it is time to serve, add 1 quart of rich, 
sweet milk, letting it boil a few minutes. Season well with pepper 
and salt. Time, about ^ hour. 

CUCUMBER SOUP.— Peel the cucumbers (they must be young 
enough to have small, fine seeds) and put in a kettle to boil in a pint 
of water; when soft, rub through a fine colander and return to the 
kettle, with a little onion if liked, and seasoning to taste. Add 
enough sweet milk to make a quart; when hot, add a little corn= 
starch, or arrowroot to thicken it, and serve with toasted bread. 

FLEMISH SOUP. 

5 heads of celery. 2 quarts of water. 

1 pint of cream. 10 medium-sized potatoes. 

2 small onions. 

Slice the onions, celery and potatoes, and put them in a stew-pan, 
with just sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they 
can be rubbed through a fine colander. Keturn to the kettle with 
the water, and let it boil up; season with salt and white pepper, or a 
little curry powder; have the cream scalding hot, in a pitcher stand- 
ing in hot water, and add to the soup just before serving. If onion 
is disliked, 2 small carrots may be substituted for the onions. Make 
^ the quantity if desired. 

OKRA OR GUMBO SOUP.— The foundation for this should be 
stock, or broth made of a chicken, or, what is better even for any 
chicken soup, an old fowl. Carefully pluck, draw, singe and wash the 
fowl; cut it in pieces, cover with cold water, put on to boil up, skim, 
and then place the kettle where it will slowly cook. A little salt may 
be added if the fowl is young, but if old, simmer for an hour before 
adding the salt. When the fowl is done, take up the breast, thighs 
and legs, which can be served with a sauce for dinner, or made into 
salad; then slowly cook the remainder of the fowl to "rags," after 
adding pepper, a little sweet herbs, and a trifle of cayenne, and an 
even teaspoon of powdered sassafras leaves. Strain through the fine 
colander and return to the kettle. Add a few slices of salt pork, if 
the fowl was lean, then wash and slice a quart of green okra and add 
to the soup; cook until the pork and okra are done. Serve with 
boiled rice, boiled onions and rolls or bread. 

ITALIAN SOUPS — These are made by adding to hot stock, either 
macaroni, vermicelli, semolina, or other Italian pastes. They should 
be boiled for 10 or 15 minutes in water to cover them, before adding 




VEGETABLE SOUPS 35 

them to the stock. Macaroni and vermicelli are best cut in short 
pieces about | inch long, before being added to soup. 

JULIENNE SOUP.— For a soup to serve for 5 or 6 persons, take 2 
or 3 middling==sized carrots (only the red parts), a middling-size tur- 
nip, a piece of celery=root, the core of a lettuce, some sorrel leaves, an 
onion, the white of half a leek. Rasp, peel or pluck these vegetables 
according to their nature; wash, drain them, and 
mince them to "Julienne," that is, cut them in thin 
fillets about an inch long; carrots, turnip, celery 
and lee>k, all in equal lengths. Fry the onion and 
leek in a little butter, then add the carrots, tur- 
nips ard celery, raw if tender, if not, blanch them. 
Season with salt and a little sugar, and add 2 
quarts of good stock. Let it simmer for ^ hour 
before g^erving. ^^^^g. 

The Leek belongs to the same order as the shallot, gar- 
lic and onion. It possesses similar properties to the onion. It is very succulent 
and wholisome, but to prevent tainting the breath it should be well boiled. 

MOCK BISQUE SOUP.— Take | can of tomatoes cook until ten- 
der, and strain; cook 2 pints milk in a double boiler, and in a small 
sauce-p^in cook 2 teaspoons of corn-starch and 1 tablespoon of butter, 
adding (^nough of the hot milk to make it pour easily; now stir this 
into the boiling milk carefully, and boil about 10 minutes. Cut 4 
tablespo' >ns of butter in small pieces and add it, mixing it well, and 
add also the strained tomatoes, ^ saltspoon of white pepper, and 1 
teaspoon of salt; serve hot. Before straining the tomatoes, if they 
are very =icid, ^ saltspoon of soda will improve them, by neutralizing 
the acid. 

MUSHROOM SOUP.— Cut a hip of veal in rather large pieces 
and break the bones; allow to each pound a little less than a quart of 
water. Season with salt, pepper, and ^ dozen blades of mace. 
Boil until the meat falls to pieces; then strain into a clean soup=pot. 
Have ready a quart of mushrooms, peeled and divested of their 
stems; put them into the soup, adding ^ pound of butter divided into 
bits, each bit rolled in flour. Boil until the mushrooms are tender, 
about 20 to 30 minutes; keep closely covered; have toasted bread in 
small pieces in the soup4ureen, and pour the soup over it. 

NOODLE SOUP — Beat the yolks of 2 eggs until light; add flour 
and a little salt. Mould very stiff, then roll thin, and cut in narrow 
strips, about an inch long. Put in boiling water for 10 minutes, 
then in cold water for 3 minutes. Add this to 3 pints of hot stock, 



36 VEGETABLE SOUPS 

ONION SOUP. — Put a piece of butt.er the size of an egg into 
a sauce=pan, or spider, and slice 1 medium sized onion into it; let 
it fry until a delicate brown. Put in 1 quart of stock or hot water, 
with herbs if liked, salt, white pepper, and a dust of cayenne. 
Strain into the tureen, add 3 crackers, halved and well toasted, and 
send to the table. 

PALESTINE SOUP — Peel and slice a quart of Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, 4 onions and 1 head of celery. Have 3 pints of water in the 
soup=kettle, or white veal stock or broth; add the vegetables, with 
pepper, salt, a bit of butter and a teaspoon of sugar; boil till tender, 
rub through the fine colander, and return to the kettle to keep hot; 
add a pint of cream, and send to the table hot, with croutons. Time, 
about 1 hour. 

CANADIAN PEA SOUP — Put a quart of whole hard peas, or 
split peas, in 2 quarts of cold soft water, and set on the fire in the 
morning. Let it boil, and as soon as the peas begin to soften, mash 
with a long-handled iron spoon, as much as possible, and skim off 
the skins as they rise to the top of the kettle. About 10 o'clock add 
to the peas a pound or more of salt pork, and if liked, a small onion 
cut finely. Boil together until noon, then take out the pork, add a 
little salt if needed, and a bowlful of bread, finely shaved from the 
loaf, which thickens the soup and prevents the peas from settling to 
the bottom of the tureen. This is a most nutritious and palatable 
soup. The pork can be served in thin slices, with vegetables, and 
chili sauce, or sour baked ap]ples. 

GREEN PEA SOUP — Into the broth in which a leg of lamb has 
been boiled, put the shells of a quart of tender young peas; let them 
boil in the broth for ^ hour, then strain out the shells and put in the 
peas to boil 20 minutes longer. Serve with any "soup-addition" 
liked. 

POTATO SOUP. — Slice 6 large potatoes and boil until tender; 
mash fine and rub through a colander into the soup ^kettle; add 2 
quarts of sweet milk. When it comes to boiling, add noodles 
already boiled in salt water. Season the soup to taste and serve. 

PUMPKIN SOUP — Peel the pumpkin and cut into pieces (re- 
moving the seeds). Put it into boiling water with some salt, and 
leave it to boil until reduced to a pulp thin enough to pass through 
a strainer. Melt a piece of butter in a sauce=pan with a wine=glass 
of cream. Strain the pulj) and add, with salt and pepper to taste, 
and a pinch of flour. Let the whole simmer \ hour, thicken with 
the yolk of an egg, and serve. 



VEGETABLE SOUPS 37 

RICE SOUP — Put a piece of butter the size of an egg and 1 
cup of bread crumbs in a skillet, and fry tliem as thoroughly brown 
as possible without burning. When sufficiently browned, pour on 
3 quarts of boiling water, and add a pint of rice, a head of finely 
cut celery, and a little salt. Stew all together until the rice is ten- 
der. Add a cup of rich milk or cream, and serve. Half the above 
quantity will serve a small family. 

SAQO SOUP — Wash | cup of sago in warm water, set it in a 
saucepan with 2 quarts of milk, and simmer until the sago is thor- 
oughly dissolved; season with pepper and salt, and add a cup of 
cream before serving Good clear stock is generally used for both 
sago and tapioca soup, but they are even nicer made with milk. 

FOR SEMOLINA, MACARONI AND VERMICELLI SOUP, see 

"Italian Soups." 

FRENCH SORREL SOUP— Take a large handful of garden 
sorrel; wash thoroughly, and cut finely with shears, and add some 
lettuce leaves and sweet h'erbs, also finely cut. Drain thoroughly on 
a sieve, then put them in a frying-pan xnth. butter already melted, 
and fry, stirring with a spoon. After about 10 minutes of cooking 
in this way, put in the soup-kettle, with 2 quarts of boiling water, 
and add salt, white pepper, and bits of butter well 
rolled in flour. Serve rolls with the soup; hard 
boiled eggs, sliced into the tureen, are an addition 
much liked. 

The SoBKEii- (Rumex Aeetosa) is a hardy perennia,, 
which grows in Europe, Asiatic Russia and North America. 
It grows in any good garden soil, and when fully grown, the 
leaves are gathered singly, and they are used to flavor soups, 
salads and sauces. Sorrel was known to the Romans, who 
sometimes stewed it with mustard, and seasoned it with a 
little oil and vinegar. It is not much used in English and 
American cookery, but is used considerably in France. Its 
acid, which is very pronounced, is a combination of oxalic 
acid ^ith -potash, called hj chemists, binoxalate of potash. soiujel. 

TAPIOCA SOUP — Make like sago soup, given above, only the 
tapioca must be soaked for at least | hour in warm water before 
being put into the milk. 

TOMATO SOUP — Put 1 quart of tomatoes in 1 quart of boiling 
water and let them cook thoroughly; set 1 quart of milk in a pitcher 
or tin, into a kettle or pan of hot water to scald. When the tomatoes 
are done, add a teaspoon of soda, and when foaming ceases, add the 
hot milk with a generous lump of butter; salt and pepper to taste. 
Cream may be added instead of butter, and more milk and less 




38 



VEGETABLE SOUPS 



water used if desired. Brown a few crackers, roll fine and add to 
the soup. Serve with small pieces of dry toast without butter. 
Time, about 30 to 40 minutes. 

TOMATO SOUP No. 2 One pint of canned tomatoes, or 4 

raw ones, cut finely; add 1 quart of water and cook thoroughly — 
about ^ hour; then add 1 teaspoon of soda, which causes it to foam. 
Immediately add 1 pint of sweet milk with a little salt and butter. 
When this boils, add 8 small crackers, rolled fine, and serve. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP — Soak over night 1 pint of black 
beans. The next day boil them in 2 quarts of water, until soft 
enough to rub through a colander; return them to the soup=kettle. 
Tie in a bit of strainer cloth (which must be perfectly clean) a 
bit each of thyme, parsley and summer savory; let it boil in the 
soup. Add 1 tablespoon of butter, cut in bits and rolled in flour; 
also salt and pepper to taste. Cut the yolks of 
hard boiled eggs in quarters and add to the 
soup, with one sliced lemon, A good imitation 
of real turtle soup. 

The Thyme is a native of Spain and Italy, and was 
well known to the Romans. Its leaves possess an agree- 
able and highly aromatic flavor, and are used, in both a 
green and a dried state, to season soups, sauces, stuflBngs, 
etc., but a little of it goes a long ways. The Lemon Thyme 
is a variety of the wild thyme, remarkable for its smell, 
which closely resembles the rind of a lemon, 

LEMON THYME, 

VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP— Pare and cut in quarters a 
large vegetable marrow, and remove the seeds from it. Dissolve a 
slice of fresh butter in a stew pan, and put in the 
marrow with a little salt, pepper, a lump of loaf 
sugar and a little nutmeg. Stew in water to cover 
it until it will jjass through a fine colander, or ^>J^, tVill2\'^ 
hair-sieve; then add enough scalding hot milk to f^mf \W^ 
make it the consistency of cream; serve with fried 
bread cut in small dice. 

Vegetable Mabeow belongs to the gourd tribe, and was 
first introduced from Persia. It has a delicate flavor and is 
easily digested. One of the simplest and best ways of cook- 
ing is to boil them and serve with a sauce poured over them. vegetable makrow. 

VICTORIA SOUP.— Wash and scald I pound of pearl barley; 
put it in the soup pot with 3 pints of white veal stock, and simmer 
gently over a slow fire for 1^ hours, by which time the barley will be 
nearly dissolved; remove \ of it to a small soup^pot, rub the remain- 





MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 39 

der through a tammy or sieve, pour over the whole barley, add half a 
pint of cream season with a little salt, stir it over the fire until hot, 
and serve. 

This soup may be made with rice, and these were the only soups 
eaten by Queen Victoria during the time Francatelli was chef in her 
household. 

WHITE SOUP. — White soup is in reality white sauce, only in 
larger quantities and not quite so strong. White soups, such as cel- 
ery, cauliflower, Palestine, potato, vegetable marrow, have all the 
same basis, viz., reduced stock and boiling milk, and only differ as to 
which stewed vegetable is rubbed through the wire sieve and added, 



MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS. 

ALMA MATER SOUP — Take a sheep's head and pluck. 
Have the head cut in several pieces with a cleaver, wash thoroughly 
in salted water and put in the soup-kettle with a gallon of water; cut 
the liver and heart in slices, and fry brown in a little butter, then 
add to the soup; simmer gently until the bones separate from the 
meat; take from the fire, and remove all the bones from the meat; cut 
the meat in very small pieces, and return to the kettle; fill in with 
hot water to keep the gallon, add 1 teacup of pearl barley; season 
with 4 cloves, pepper, salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cut finely 2 
onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, and cook until the vegetables are done. 
Serve with forcemeat balls. 

BEEF SOUP. — Put 1 small beef bone in about 1 gallon or 
water; when it has simmered about 3 hours, add 4 potatoes, 2 tur- 
nips, 2 onions, and 2 tablespoons each of rice and barley; season 
with salt and white pepper, and boil 1 hour longer. Add one table- 
spoon of chopped celery just before serving. 

' BOUILLON — For a party of 12, allow 6 pounds of beef cut 
finely, and 2 shinbones of beef well broken. Put over the fire with 
3 quarts of cold water, and bring to a boil. Skim thoroughly, and set 
back on the range to simmer slowly for 5 hours; then strain through 
the fine colander. Eemove every particle of fat, which can be done 
by drawing the edge of blotting paper across the bouillon. After the 
fat is removed, return to the kettle and re^heat. Season with pepper 
and salt, and serve in bouillon cups (/. <?., cups about the size of cof- 
fee-cups, with 2 handles) when served at lunches. Cloudy bouillon 
is caused generally by rapid boiling and careless skimming. 




4U MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 

CLEAR SOUP. — Cut 4 lbs. lean beef into small pieces, carefully 
removing all the fat; jjour on 1 gallon of water, and boil it up three 
times, skimming well each time; if not well skimmed, it will not be 
clear. Into each of 2 small onions stick 4 cloves firmly, scrape 2 
small carrots, and put them into the soup; add 6 blades of mace, 1 
bunch of parsley and 1 teaspoon of celery seed, salt and pepper; boil 
until the vegetables are tender, strain through muslin, and return to 
the soup^pot; add the whites of 4 eggs, well beaten, and boil until 
they gather to one side; skim and tint it a delicate amber .with £ 
little caramel; wash the muslin, pour through again, and serve. 

Maoe is the membrane which surrounds the nut- 
meg. This membrane is removed, and when dried 
and flattened it forms the mace of commerce. It con- 
tains about 4: per cent, of an aromatic oil, and its 
general properties are similar to the nutmeg. A 
coarse and inferior article from a different tree is 
sometimes palmed off for the genuine mace. 

CHICKEN SOUP. — This need not be made wholly of young 
spring chickens, for they are more valuable for roasting or broiling; 
but the remnants of raw chickens when used for fricassee or " chicken 
supreme," can be utilized in a soup, and if a large quantity of soup 
is needed, a few pounds of veal bones and cheap veal trimmings may 
be simmered with the chicken, which will flavor them all. Let the 
6oup=pot come to boiling; skim, and then set on the back of the 
range to slowly simmer for 3 or 4 hours, or until the meat drops from 
the bones. Season with salt and pepper, or a little curry powder 
instead of pepper, and a soup^bunch; then simmer 10 minutes longer, 
strain through the cloth strainer, and return to the kettle. Thicken 
with a little corn=starch, and color and flavor with caramel. Serve 
with oyster crackers. 

Chicken Soup No. 2. — Take the remnants of roasted chickens— the 
necks, wings, all the bones, and every part left from dinner the day 
previous; add water sufficient to cover it all; slowly simmer until 
the meat separates from the bones. Then add any gravy or rem- 
nants of dressing, and let it boil up once. For the remnants of 2 
chickens there should be 8 pints of soup; strain through cheese-cloth 
or fine colander, put the souj) back into the kettle, add more season- 
ing if needed; thicken with bits of butter well rolled in flour; boil up 
once, and serve immediately. 

CHICKEN AND GUMBO — Take a fair sized chicken, cut up as 
for fricassee, pick out the bones, and fry with ^ lb. finely chopped 
bacon. Add 1 gallon water, 2 pints small okras, and the same of 



MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 41 

tomatoes; season highly with white pepper, salt and cayenne, and 
Bimmer 4: hours. Put 1 tablespoon of boiled rice in each plate before 
serving, and pour the soup over it. 

Gumbo File is made the same way, but seasoned more highly, and 
tender shoots and leaves of young sassafras added (dried and 
pounded). Green corn, and lima beans are also added sometimes. 

CONSOMME. 

5 quarts of water. 2 turnips. 

2 carrots. 1 bunch of herbs. 

2 leeks. 2 old fowls. 

i pounds of lean beef. 2 onions. 

Let it simmer slowly for 8 hours, or till it is reduced to 2 quarts. 
Observe the nsual rule of skimming, straining and seasoning, and 
use for dainty appetites, with quenelles, or any garnish liked best. 

DUCHESS SOUP. — Put a quart of rich stock, or consommS, 
on the range to heat; when it comes to boiling, thicken it with a 
tablespoon of arrowroot, and then pour it into the tureen containing 
neatly cut lengths of roasted poultry or game. 

EQQ SOUP. — Break 6 fresh eggs into a bowl; add a pint of 
sweet cream and a little white pepper and salt; beat the eggs well and 
add the cream ; pour into a square tin well buttered, and place it in 
the oven in a dripping-pan of hot water, and bake about | hour. Let it 
get cold, then cut in small squares, put in the soup tureen, pour 2 
quarts of hot stock, or broth, over it, and send it to the table. Milk 
may be used instead of stock. This souid is rich and may be served 
with hot toasted crackers when the dinner is otherwise light. 

Egg Soup No. 2. — When you have a broth in which meat has been 
boiled, or poultry, even if thin and not transparent, a good soup may 
be made when eggs are plenty by boiling for 20 minutes, 4 eggs for 
every quart of broth. Throw the eggs in cold water, and shell them. 
Have the broth well strained, and put it back in the kettle. Cut the 
whites of the eggs in rings, and pulverize the yolks with a fork on a 
plate (they should be mealy with the boiling) and add whites and 
yolks to the broth, also a few bits of butter well rolled in flour. Do 
not boil after the egg mixture is put in the kettle. 

EVERY=DAY SOUP — Go in the jpantry in the morning and put 
into the soup kettle all the nice meat bones, cold bits of meat, cold 
gravy, also any cooked vegetables left the day before. Get ready the 
meat for dinner, and put the trimmings in the kettle. Season with a 
little salt, a few whole cloves, and a few pepper=corns broken in the 
mortar; add also a small onion cut finely. Put in the kettle enough 



42 MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 

water to serve each person with -| pint of soup. Simmer all together 
until an hour before dinner; then strain and return to the kettle. 
Have ready, shredded, and standing in cold water, some vegetable, 
either cabbage, turnips, carrots, asparagus, green peas or spinach, 
and add to the soup. When the vegetable is done, serve with rolls or 
bread. 

FLORENCE SOUP.— Put on to heat, 3 pints of white stock, 
beef, veal or chicken broth, and add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 
and 1 cup of cream; boil 3 or 4 sticks of macaroni in salted water for 
10 minutes; cut in ^ inch pieces and add to the soup; have the bot- 
tom of the soup tureen covered with grated cheese, pour over the hot 
soup, and serve. 

GAME SOUP. — This can be made of a squirrel, wild duck, rab= 
bit, partridge, 2 or 3 squabs (young jjigeons) or any kind of game 
brought in, in too small a quantity for serving in any other way, and 
is a good soup for an invalid, or small family. Dress the game by 
skinning, if a quadruped, or, by picking, if a fowl or bird. Draw, 
and wipe clean with a v/et cloth. Cut in small pieces and boil gently 
2 or 3 hours, or until the meat separates from the bones; then take 
out the bones and season with pepper and salt. Cut a piece of butter 
the size of an egg, in small bits, roll each bit in flour; add, and let it 
boil for ^ minute, and serve with thin slices of bread laid on the bot- 
tom of the tureen. 

Game soup can also be made by one of our recipes for stock, 
using game instead of beef or other meat. 

HOTCH=POTCH SOUP — Soak |- pint of split peas over night 
and add ^ teaspoon of soda to the water; the next morning, turn off 
the water and rinse again; then put them to boil in 2 quarts of water; 
boil slowly 2 or 3 hours; then add a pound of beef or mutton, cut in 
small pieces, a carrot, a turnip, a small cabbage, an onion, all cut 
finely, and 3 or 4 large slices of salt pork. Add salt and pepper to 
taste, and cook until the meat is done, keeping it just covered with 
water. This is fine in a cold day in the winter, and is an inexpensive 
dinner by itself, without other meat. 

MEAT BROTH — Put the beef or mutton on in cold water and 
let it heat slowly; a scum will rise when it comes to the boiling point; 
remove thin very carefully, then cover the pot, and keep it at a gentle 
simmer; 'Irom time to time lift the cover and skim till no more scum 
rises. Take out the meat when thoroughly cooked — in 2 or 3 hours. 
Set the meat in the oven to keep it warm, with the door of the oveD 



MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 



43 



open a little way. Have some tliin slices of toasted bread well butter- 
ed, or some browned crackers in the tureen, and after pouring the 
broth through the cloth strainer, pour over the tureen and serve. 
Instead of the toast, a little chopped cabbage, boiled in a separate 
stew-pan can be added, or any other vegetable liked. 

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 

1 fowl or rabbit, or 2 lbs. of lean 2 large onions. 



A bit of garlic (or 2 or 8 

cloves). 
2 quarts of cold water. 



beef or veal. 

1 bunch of herbs. 

2 tablespoons of curry powder. 
Peal of 1 lemon. 

Cut the meat in small pieces and cover with the water; slice the 
onions, fry them brown in beef drippings, and put the onions, lemon 
peel, herbs, and cloves or garlic, with the meat, and simmer slowly 
for 5 hours, skimming well; then strain through the fine colander. 
Return to the kettle, add salt to taste and ground white pepper, and 
a teacup of rice. When the rice begins to break 
in pieces, add the juice of a lemon, and 2 table- 
spoons of curry powder. 

MuUagatawny means "pepper pot," and it is an Indian 
soup. It always requires to be well seasoned, and rice should 
be served with it. 

Gablio is an eastern plant which has been cultivated 
from ancient times. It belongs to the same family as the 
onion, and it posseses its properties in an intensified degree. 
It is much used in Italian, Spanish and French cookery, but 
very little in English and American. It is very wholesome, 
assists digestion, and acts as a slight stimulant and tonic. 
It possesses much medicinal value. As a rule in using garlic 
it is not chopped but the flavor is imparted simply by rub- 
bing; cut a little off the end of the garlic, and rub it on the gaelio. 
dish in which the food to be flavored is placed. 

• MUTTON BROTH.— Take 2 lbs. of what is known as the scrags 
end of the neck of mutton; remove as much as possible every parti- 
cle of fat. Put it in a quart of cold water, with a slice of onion and 
a saltspoon of salt. Let it simmer very gently for 3 or 4 hours; skim 
occasionally. Strain off the broth and allow it to cool. Take off all 
fat, and warm up when required. When not required for invalids, 
some chopped parsley may be added to the broth, as well as other 
vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, or leeks. 

OXTAIL SOVP.—{Eich beef souj)) .—Tvio shin=bones of beef well 
broken, and 2 beef=tails cut in short pieces. Put in the soup kettle 
with 3 quarts of water. Let it come to a boil and carefully skim; 
then slowly simmer until the meat will separate from the bones. 
Take out the meat and bones with a skimmer into a pan, and cut the 




44 MEAT, POULTKY AND GAME SOUPS 

meat in small pieces, putting back the bones to simmer until an hour 
before dinner; then take out the bones again and add a carrot, a 
small turnip, a small onion, all cut finely, with herbs, salt and pepper 
to taste, and if preferred, a tablespoon of any of the ready=made meat 
sauces liked by the family. Fry the bits of meat a nice brown, in a 
little butter, and place in the bottom of the tureen; pour the soup 
and vegetables over the meat and send it to the table. Serve with- 
rolls, bread, or toasted crackers. The ingredients of this soup may 
be all simmered together for 4 or 5 hours, then strained through the 
cloth strainer. A tablespoon of corn^starch in a little water may be) 
added for thickening, and a tablespoon of caramehsugar used for col- 
oring. Sufficient for 8. 

RABBIT SOUP. — Out a young rabbit in small pieces and soak 
in water for an hour; then put in the soup=pot, and cook until the 
meat separates from the bones. Take all the best meat, and return 
the remainder to the kettle, with a carrot, turnip, onion, and 2 or 3 
sticks of celery, all cut finely, with seasoning to taste, and simmer 
for 2 hours longer; then strain the soup and return to the kettle; add 
a piece of butter about the size of an English walnut, cut in pieces 
and rolled in flour, to thicken it. There should be 3 quarts of broth 
when done. Out the meat in small pieces, put in the tureen, and 
pour over the hot rabbit soup. 

TURKEY SOUP — After a turkey has been served for dinner 
and the meat has been taken from the carcass, break all the bones 
finely and put in the soup^kettle, with any remaining dressing or 
gravy, and add 3 quarts of water if the turkey was large — less for a 
small one. Let boil slowly for 2 or 3 hours; then pour through a 
coarse colander, and serve with toasted crackers. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP— Scald a calf's head, and wash it clean. 
Boil in a large pot of water for ^ hour, then cut all the skin ofiF 
by itself; take the tongue out, take the broth made of a knuckle 
of veal, put in the tongue and skin, with an onion, ^ ounce each of 
cloves and mace, ^ a nutmeg, all kinds of sweet herbs chopped fine, 
3 anchovies; stew it till tender; then take out the meat, and cut it in 
pieces 2 inches square; cut the tongue, previously skinned, in slices; 
strain the liquor through a sieve. Melt ^ lb. butter in a stew-pan; 
put in i lb. flour; stir it till smooth; if at all lumpy, strain it; add 
the liquor, stirring it all the time; then add to the meat the juice of 
2 lemons. Season with pepper, salt and cayenne pepper, pretty 
high; put in 5 meat balls, 8 eggs, boiled hard. Stew it 1 hour gently. 



FISH AND SHELL=FISH SOUPS 45 

VEAL SOUP — Into 4 quarts of water put a 3 lb. joint of 
veal, well broken, and set on the stove to boil. In a separate dish 
put ^ lb. of macaroni, with just water enough to cover it, and boil till 
tender; then add a little butter. Finally the souid should be strained, 
seasoned with pepper and salt, and afterwards add the macaroni and 
the water in which it was boiled. Many will find it an improvement 
to add 1 pint of cream, or rich milk, and celery flavor. 



FISH AND SHELL=FISH SOUPS. 

BOSTON SOUP — Any kind of fish may be used for this dish. 
Chop 2 onions, and put them with a piece of butter into a stew==pan 
and let them brown without burning. Then arrange the fish which 
has been previously cut into small pieces, in the pan. Add a small 
quantity of the best olive oil, a clove of garlic, a bayleaf , two slices 
of lemon, 2 tomatoes, and as much powdered saffron as v/ill go on the 
point of a table=knife, and lastly the juice of the remainder of the 
lemon. Put in sufficient stock to cover the whole, and boil from 10 
to 20 minutes, skimming carefully the whole time. 
When ready to serve, throw in a handful of 
chopped parsley. 

Bay Leaves are taken from a species of laurel, L. Nobil- 
is. It is a native of Asia Minor, but is cultivated as a 
handsome evergreen. The leaves are large, shining and 
lance*shaped, and are bitter, aromatic, and narcotic. They 
are used by cooks and confectioners because of their agree- 
able flavor. Most of the dried figs imported into this 
country are packed in bay leaves. The laurel among the 
Greeks was sacred to Apollo, and from it the garlands 
were made which were placed on the heads of heroes and 
poets. ^HE 3^Y. 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER— Wash thoroughly with a brush, a 
small lobster, then remove all the solid meat and x)ut it on ice. Break 
finely the shell and claws of the lobster, and put it in the soup^ket- 
tle with enough water to cover it. Cut finely, and add a small carrot, 
1 head of celery, and a very small onion or bit of garlic, with herbs, 
salt and white pepper, to taste. Boil 1 hour and then strain; put 
back in the kettle and add 3 pints of stock. Set it on the range 
where it will keep hot but not boil, as boiling causes it to curdle. 
Just before serving, cut the meat of the lobster in small pieces and 
fry brown in a little butter, and place in the bottom of the tureen. 
Add to the bisque the juice of -^ a lemon, and a dust of cayenne pep- 




46 FISH AND SHELL^FISH SOUPS 

per, and pour over the meat in the tureen. Serve with a French roll 
at each plate, or with browned crackers. 

CLAM SOUP.— Put 25 clams in boiling water for a few minutes. 

Then open them and save the liquor that comes from them; add to it 
an equal quantity of water, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, 1 chop- 
ped onion, butter the size of an egg, cut in bits and rolled in 
flour; j)epper and salt to taste, 2 well beaten eggs and the chopped 
clams, adding lastly 1 pint of milk. Boil 10 minutes. A very nice 
soup. (It is better to add the eggS to this soup the last thing before 
taking up, as the egg is apt to curdle, if boiled. ) 

NEWPORT CLAM CHOWDER.— Wash the clams thoroughly 
with boiling water, aud let them stand 10 minutes, when they can 
easily be removed from the shell. Cut ofp the black heads and put 
the bodies in a clean dish. For a peck of clams use 8 large jpotatoes, 
peeled and sliced thin, and | an onion cut in small pieces. Cut ^ 
pound of salt pork into small j^ieces and fry brown. Put the onion 
and potatoes into the kettle with the pork, with a tablespoon of salt, 
a little pepper and | a cup of flour shaken in; strain on this 4 quarts 
of the water in which the clams were scalded, and let all boil 15 min- 
utes; then add the clams, 6 crackers split, ^ cup of tomato sauce; 
cook 10 minutes longer, and serve. 

SALT CODFISH SOUP.— Take a piece of codfish the size of the 
hand, scald, skin, and pick in small pieces, and put in a kettle with a 
quart of water; soak, and change the water until it is fresh enough; 
then add 1 pint of cream and 1 pint of water and let it come to boil- 
ing. Serve it with buttered, toasted crackers. 

FISH SOUP.— Take any kind of fresh fish liked best— about 2 
pounds for 3 quarts of water. Cut in small pieces and put in the 
soup=pot — skin, bones and all — with a large onion, sliced, a bunch of 
parsley, a sliced lemon, with a little salt and white pepper. Cook to 
rags; then strain through the cloth strainer, and return to the kettle. 
Add a heaping tablespoon of corn=starch wet in half a teacup of 
water; let it come to boiling, and serve with quenelles, if desired. 
Time, about 2 hours. 

FISH SOUP No. 2 — Take a fish that weighs about 2 pounds; 
cut enough slices for the frying-pan, and put the remainder, with the 
bones, in the soup=kettle, Muth an onion if liked, a sliced lemon, a 
bunch of parsley, salt, and white pepper. Simmer together for an 
hour; strain and return to the kettle, and add ^ pint of cream, and 
enough hot water to make 3 pints of soup. Fry the fish cutlets in 



FISH AND SHELL:=FISH SOUPS 47 

butter, and add to the soup, or serve on a platter instead of meat on 
a fast day. If the fish is not added to the soup, serve it with nood- 
les. Time, about 1\ hours. 

OYSTER SOUP.— Put a pint of small oystesr with their liquor 
in a quart of boiling water and let them become plump; then take 
them out with a skimmer, rinse thoroughly in warm water, and be 
sure there are no bits of shell adhering to them. Strain the 
soup=water through the cloth strainer and return to the kettle. Let 
it come to a boil, add a little white pepper and a very little cayenne, 
with a piece of butter the size of an egg, cut in bits and rolled in 
flour. Boil a minute after this, then pour over the oysters in the tu- 
reen and serve with small crackers, or large crackers split, and 
browned in the oven. A richer soup is made by leaving out one pint 
of water and substituting one pint of cream. 

SPANISH SOUP.— Slice and shred 2 large onions and fry in 2 
tablespoons of salad=oil until the onions are quite yellow; then add a 
dessert-spoon of Spanish sweet red pepper, a little salt and a quart of 
good stock, or water; boil together for 3 minutes; then add small 
slices of any kind of fish most agreeable or convenient; boil these for 
a few minutes and serve with the crusts of a round French roll fried 
in a little oil and butter. The slices of fish may be removed to a 
platter, covered with one of the fish sauces, and served as a course 
separate from the soup. 



FISH. 

I ^ ISH has been an important article of food in all ages and in 

HP; all countries. Although less nourishing and stimulating 

X (h than meat, it has much nutritive value. Its abundance and 

cheapness commend it, and it should be used freely in, the 

season when it is best and cheapest. 

The flesh of fish when in season, i. e., before spawning, is solid 
and boils firm and curdy. It should be used as fresh as possible, as 
it soon spoils. White fleshed fish are the most easily digested, and 
the oily varieties like mackerel, salmon and eels, are the most difiicult 
of digestion. White fleshed fish is the most delicate, and the red 
fleshed and oily kinds the most nourishing. Fish is highly nitrog- 
enous, and requires an abundant use of starchy food in combination 
with it, to sux5ply a sufiicient amount of heat^giving material; and, 
owing to the lack of oil in the white fleshed varieties, they are best 
cooked in fat. Lemon juice or vinegar (being acid) are excellent as 
an accompaniment, or in the sauces, for fish and shellfish, because of 
the alkaline nature of their juices. It is essential to the wholesome- 
ness of fish that they should be thoroughly cleaned and cooked. 

The popular idea that fish aid brain and nervous development because of tho 
phosphorus they contain is wholly erroneous. There is no relation between the 
amount of phosphorus passing through the system and the intensity of thought. 
It is not because of the j)hosphorus they contain that fish, oysters and eggs, are 
suitable for students, but because they are easily digested, and those leading sed- 
entary lives do not need the hearty food suited to a day^laborer, besides which they 
are adapted to those on whose nervous energies there are large drains because of 
the large amount of nitrogenous material which they contain. It should also be 
said that fish contains no larger per cent, of phosphorus than meat. 

Cleaning Fish. — Fish should be cleaned as soon as possible after 
being caught. Make an incision in the under side from the gills half 
way down, and take out the insides; carefully remove the thin black 
membrane lining the cavity, as it is apt to impart a bitter flavor 
to the whole fish if it is left. It is best to remove the white part ad- 
hering to the bone, called the sound, although some people leave it. 
Do not cut off the tail and head^if it is to be served whole. Scrape 
from the tail towards the head to remove the scales; take out the 
eyes, and wash in strongly salted water; dry carefully, and wrap a 
cloth sprinkled with salt around it, and keep near the ice. The salt 
checks the outflow of the juices. Handle the fish as little as possible, 
a,nd do not wash it too much (one water is usually enough) and do 

48 



FISH 49 

not let the fish soak in the water, as that will extract the juices 
and detract from its value. Keep fish in a cool place near the ice, 
but do not let ice touch it, as that will soften and injure, if it does 
not spoil it. Do not keep fish in the ice chest, as it will taint any- 
thing like milk or butter. Keep any fish left after the meal in the 
same way. 

To Skin a Fish — Cut a narrow strip along the backbone, using a 
sharp knife, and removing the fin on the back; then run up the knife 
through and under the bony part of the gills and peel the skin off 
backwards toward the tail, holding the bony part of the gills with the 
thumb and finger; then peel off the skin from the other side in the 
same manner, and throw it away. 

To Bone a Fish. — Fish like herring and shad, abounding in fine 
bones, are not boned, but whitefish, mackerel, cod, etc., can be boned 
as follows: Clean, skin and spread it out flat on a board; then begin 
at the tail, and run a sharp, thin knife under the flesh, close to the 
bone, and loosen the backbone with the forefinger. Take pains not 
to break the flakes, and when the flesh on one side is loosened, slip 
the knife under the bone on the other; when all the bone is loosened, 
pull it from the flesh. Any small bones remaining in the flesh can 
be felt and removed with the fingers. 

Hints — The earthy or muddy taste which taints some kinds of 
fresh water fish can be removed by rubbing on salt and letting them 
stand a few hours or over night; or, if in a hurry, soak them in salted 
water -| to 2 hours. 

If fish are dipped in hot water for a minute, they will scale 
much easier. To remove scales, there is no instrument equal to a 
currycomb — it is everyway superior to a knife. The scales and en- 
trails should be removed, and also the blood and white skin along the 
backbone, as soon after the fish is caught as possible; then rinse, 
wipe dry, and keep near ice. Keep the eggs, or fish roe, and cook it 
with the fish. 

The quickest and best way to freshen salt fish is to soak it in 
sour milk. As salt will settle, put the fish flesh side down, then the 
salt as it dissolves out of the fish will settle in the bottom of the pan. 
If the skin side is down the salt will settle against the skin and be 
retained in the fish. All fish lose nourishing power by being salted. 

Salted fish and canned fish, oysters, lobsters etc., can be kept in 
the store=room against an emergency, but great care must be taken 
in the case of canned meats, fish, lobsters, and vegetables, that the 
4 



50 FISH 

brands selected are put up in j^nre tin cans; a mixture of lead with 
the tin is sometimes used, the oxide of which is poisonous. All the 
contents of a tin can when opened should be immediately removed 
into an earthen or glass dish, as oxidation proceeds rapidly after 
the can is ojpened, and the inside, with its contents, exposed to the 
action of the air. 

The knives and spoons used about fish should not be used for 
other food till well cleaned, as they will impart a fishy flavor to it. 
Eub steel knives or forks with fresh lemon or orange peel to take off 
the fishy taste. 

To thaw out frozen fish, put it in cold water, and leave it until it 
is flexible and the frost is all drawn out; then dress and cook at once. 

Fish, if kept near ice and very cold, retains much of its fresh- 
ness, but if once heated, its delicate flavor cannot be restored. Fish 
that is not quite fresh can be improved by washing in vinegar and 
water, or permanganate of potash and water. It is afterwards better 
fried than boiled, but no dressing will entirely conceal its quality. 
Fish purchased in the market should be used the same day if pos- 
sible. 

The garnishing of fish is an art, if nicely done. Celery tops, horse- 
radish, common radishes, water-cresses, parsely, nasturtium flowers, 
sliced lemons and red pickled beets, cut in fanciful shapes, are 
among the most effective and popular things to use. 

Methods of Cooking Fish. — Broiling a fish best retains its nourish- 
ing qualities; baking is next, while boiling retains the least — in fact, 
boiling is the least desirable way of cooking them. Small fish are 
usually fried; those of medium size broiled and baked, and the larg- 
est can be boiled. 

As the directions for frying, boiling, stewing, broiling and bak- 
ing fish apply to nearly all kinds, we will give these methods quite 
fully, instead of describing the same method o\er and over again for 
each different kind of fish. Anyone who masters the process, can 
easily cook any fish adajoted to that way of cooking. 

TO BOIL FISH. 

When boiling fish, to have the water bubble is worse than 
useless, as it cracks the skin. If fish is put into cold water 
at first, it, like meat, gets dry (see our article on the prin- 
cij)les involved in cooking meat). A compromise is therefore made, 
and salt is added to the water (use about 1 oz. of salt to each quart 
of water) ; it is well also to add about 1 tablespoon of vinegar or 



FISH 



51 




A FISH KETTLE. 



lemon juice to each. 2 quarts of water. Vinegar or lemon juice are 
valuable because albumen coagulates sooner when in contact with an 
acid, and they thus help to coagulate the surface albumen, and so re- 
tain the juices inside. Salt added to the water in which fish is 
cooked acts in 3 ways, as explained in the article on cooking meats. 
The old plan has been 
to put fish into cold 
water at first, but it is 
much better to put it 
into water as hot as 
the skin will bear 
without breaking, and 
this varies with each 
kind of fish. To 
break the skin is very 
undesirable , because 
it not only makes an 

unsightly appearance but each crack makes an opening through 
which the interior juices will escape. Any fish which is to be served 
without the skin on, like sturgeon or halibut, is best if put into boil- 
ing water. Fish having a thick, tough skin, can be put into water 
at the boiling point. Fish with delicate skins, like trout, mackerel, 
etc.- should be put into warm water — 140° to 150°. If a fish kettle is 
used, and a fish plate that can be taken up, there is no need of a 
cloth around the fish, but if it has to be boiled in a common kettle, 
it should be rolled in a piece of cloth (butter cloth is best) to keep it 
in shape, and it is likely to be broken when taken from the water, 
if the cloth is not used. Allow the fish to gently simmer, not actually 
boil, or the outside will break into pieces before the inside is done. 
If water is to be added, do not pour it directly on the fish, as that is 
apt to break the skin; pour it gently in on one side of the kettle. 
Fish should always be put into the water in which it is to be cooked; 
if the water is poured upon it, it is apt to become broken. It should 
not be allowed to remain in the water after it is done; if it has to be 
kept hot, it should be taken up on a drainer, placed across the fish^ 
kettle over the hot water, and covered with a soft cloth or flannel 
folded several times, to prevent its losing its color. The reason for 
skimming is, that the scum will be likely to settle on the fish if that 
is not done, and give it an unsightly appearance. Save the liquor 
in which fish has been boiled, as it makes an excellent soup with a 
few cheap additions. 

Boiling is the least desirable way of cooking fish. 



62 FISH 

The Time of Boiling depends entirely on the freshness and 
thickness of the fish, and varies so much that no rule can be given; 
experience is the only guide. There are three reliable tests by which 
it can be ascertained if the fish has been sufiiciently cooked: First, if 
the fins will pull out easily; second, if the skin of the fish is cracked; 
or, third, if a skewer passes easily when run into the fish close to the 
bone. Too long boiling makes fish " woolly " and tasteless. Fish 
should be well cooked to be digestible, but should not be overdone. 
White fish cook much more rapidly than meat. All dark^fleshed fish 
require more boiling than the white=fleshed kinds. Salmon needs 
about 10 minutes to each lb. Haddock, cod, etc. only need 2 or 3 
minutes to the lb. Mackerel needs about \ hour. Bass or sheeps- 
head, of 4 or 5 lbs., will boil in about 10 minutes. Herring and 
many similar fish, in 6 or 8 minutes. 

Au Court Bouillon is a term applied when white wine or vine- 
gar and onions and spices are used to flavor the water in which the 
fish is boiled. 

A la bonne eau is a term applied when the fish is simmered in a 
little water made savory with herbs, and the water in which it is 
cooked is generally served with it. When sea water is used the 
fish is said to be a V Hollandaise. 

Au bleu is the term applied when red wine and vinegar are used 
in the water in which the fish is boiled, and it is also strongly im- 
pregnated with herbs, The fish is then generally served cold. Only 
the best kinds of fish are thus treated. 

All boiled fish should have a good sauce served with it. Hollan- 
daise and sauce piquante go well with salmon, oyster, lobster, and 
shrimp; and drawn butter, egg, pickle, etc., with other fish. Serve 
the sauce in a sauce-boat unless the fish breaks and looks badly, in 
which case the bones can be taken out, the fish flaked, piled on a 
platter lightly, and the sauce poured over, it. 

Garnish boiled fish with slices of lemon or hard boiled eggs, 
parsley, button mushrooms, fried oysters, sliced pickles, Saratoga 
potatoes, etc. 

STEAMED FISH. 

An excellent way to cook fish is to thoroughly clean, remove 
the head, skin and tail, rub with salt and lemon juice, and cook in a 
steamer, over boiling water, instead of boiling it. In many respects 
it is better than boiling. When done, serve on a platter on which a 
folded napkin is laid, pile Saratoga potatoes around it, and garnish 
with parsley, slices of lemon or hard boiled egg. Serve a good sauce 
in a sauce-boat with it. 



FISH 63 

Time to steam, about 20 minutes for moderate sized fish, and 
longer for large ones. 

STEWED FISH. 

Cut the fish in small pieces and sprinkle on salt; then in | pint 
of water boil one onion (sliced) and when cooked, pour off the water; 
then add 1 cup water, the juice of | a lemon, | teaspoon salt, a salt= 
spoon of pepper, and a sprig of parsley or other herbs. Boil the fish 
in this till done, and serve very hot. Eub to a cream 1 teaspoon of 
butter and 1 large teaspoon of flour, and thicken the gravy with it. 
Any fresh water fish can be thus stewed. 

Time to stew, about 20 minutes. 

TO BROIL FISH. 

Clean the fish properly and either rub it with vinegar or dry it 
and dredge it with flour. Salt and pepper is all that is really neces- 
sary to apply to oily fish before broiling them, but salad oil or butter 
should be first spread over dry, white fish. Fish is sometimes soaked 
in marinade previous to broiling, as it improves the flavor. The 
French steep it in olive oil flavored with spices. 

Large fish need a moderate fire so as not to burn the outside 
before the inside is done; they are best split, in order to cook them 
through well, ox else make notches at equal distances on the sides to 
admit the heat. Small fish need a clear hot fire, and may be cooked 
whole. The gridiron should always be well greased. As the skin 
burns easily, the flesh side should be cooked first to a golden brown; 
then turn and broil the skin side until it is crisp. A double wire 
gridiron is easily turned, but the best way when an old style iron or a 
single gridiron is used, is to take a knife and separate any part that 
sticks; then with one hand hold a platter over the fish, and with the 
other, turn over the gridiron; the fish will then be on the platter and 
can easily be returned to the gridiron without breaking. When done, 
sprinkle on salt and pepper, and, using a knife, spread a little butter 
over it, and then put it in the oven a moment to let it soak in. A 
Maitre d' liotel or other good sauce can be used with it. 

All oily fish, like mackerel, herring etc., are better broiled than 
fried. 

The pieces of fish are sometimes wrapped in a piece of oiled 
paper before being broiled, when very delicate broiling is desired. 
The paper must be very thoroughly oiled or buttered, but no oil 
should drop on the fire, and a very clear fire is needed. 

A gridiron that has cooked fish needs most thorough cleaning. 



54 FISH 

Kemember that the secret of having dry, white fish, nice, is to 
rub them with salad oil or melted butter before broiling them. 

Time to Cook. — This depends largely on the size. Small fish will 
broil in 5 to 10 minutes, while larger ones will need 15 to 20 min- 
utes. 

BKOILED SALT FISH. 

Use any salt fish, and either soak it in cold water 24 hours, 
changing it 2 or 3 times, or if in a hurry use warm water and soak it 
a short time, changing the water and parboiling it slightly. When 
wanted for use, drain, dry, and broil briskly. Season with pepper, a 
little salt if needed, and pour on melted butter. 

Time to broil, about 10 to 12 minutes. 

MARINADE FOR BROILED FISH. 

Mix together |- cup of salad oil, a chopped onion, the juice of a 
lemon or 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and a bunch of herbs. Scores 
1 inch apart are often made in the fish before putting it in the 
marinade. Let them soak in this ^ hour. Many kinds of dry fish 
are much improved by this treatment. 

TO FRY FISH. 

By frying fish we mean immersing it in hot fat. The fish 
should be well cleaned, dried with a soft cloth, and seasoned with 
pepper and salt; then rub it with flour, dip it in beaten egg, and 
then sprinkle with fine bread or cracker crumbs; sometimes wheat 
flour or Indian corn=meal are used, but fully cover the fish so* that 
there are no cracks. Then fry it in smoking hot fat like doughnuts, 
and as directed elsewhere under "The Processes of Cooking." It 
should be fried a rich golden brown. A sheet of paper can be 
placed to receive it after it is fried, that it may be free from all 
grease. Some cooks lay it in the oven for a moment, and then serve. 

Time to Cook. — A very little time is all that is needed to cook it 
(from 2 to 5 minutes) if the fat is the right temperature; a general 
mistake is to overcook it. 

Do not fry oily fish, like mackerel, salmon, etc. Halibut, cod, 
etc., can be skinned, boned, and cut into small pieces, and then 
fried. Fish which is very cold should be slightly warmed first, or it 
will chill the fat and become greasy. Fish thus fried is nicer than 
by the common method of frying in the frying=pan; try it once, if 
you never have. 

Fish is also sometimes fried in batter. The fish should be dried, 
seasoned with pepj)er and salt, dipped in the batter, and quickly put 



FISH 



55 



into the hot fat. The batter must be smooth and thick. As soon as 
the batter is of a bright golden color, take it out, and if the fish is 
thick, put it in the oven for a few minutes. The fat is more than 
100° hotter than boiling water, and the inside part of whatever is 
cooked in it goes on cooking after it is taken out of the fat. 

For frying in the frying-pan or sauUing, butter is not desira- 
ble, as it scorches too easily and gives a bad odor to any fish that re- 
quires long cooking. Small brook^trout, however, are sometimes 
cooked in butter in the frying=pan. For ordinary sized pan-fish, or 
slices of large fish, the fat from a few thin slices of salt pork is excel- 
lent; the thin scraps of fried pork are used with other garnishing, 
around the fish on the platter. 

Garnish fried fish with parsley, lemon, pickle, etc., and serve 
with any acid sauce, like tomato or tartare. Small fish should be ar- 
ranged with heads and tails alternating. Arrange fillets in a circle, 
one overlapping the other. 

BAKED FISH. 

Clean, dry, and stuff the fish with one of the stuffings given be- 
low, and sew it. Long, narrow fish bake best if a trussing needle is 
run through the side of the 
head, then the middle of the 
■body, and then the tail, in such 
a way as to form the fish into 
the shape of a letter S as shown 
in the accompanying illustra- 
tion; it will then rest on its bel- 
ly while baking, instead of 
on its side. Shad or other 

short, broad fish, may be propped up on their bellies with peeled po- 
tatoes, or pieces of old bread. In order to lift the fish out easily 
when done, it is best to put the fish on an iron or tin baking sheet, 
with handles at the ends, and set that in the baking pan; if you have 
no such baking sheet, 2 broad strips of cotton cloth can be used to 
lift the fish out with, laying the cloth across the pan before putting 
in the fish. Grease the baking sheet well with salt pork fat, to keep 
the fish from sticking, and put some pieces of pork under the fish al- 
so. Sprinkle it over with salt and pepper, rub on soft butter, and put 
narrow strips of pork in gashes cut across the back of the fish about 
2 inches apart. Dredge it well with flour, and bake in a hot oven 
until nicely browned, basting it often to prevent the skin from crack- 
ing. Remember that constant basting is essential to success. Some 




IJAKED FISH. 



56 FISH 

cooks put a little water in the baking pan, but it is better not to do 
so, but use the pork fat to baste with. When done, lift it carefully 
and put it on a hot platter, take out the trussing needle or threads, 
and remove the salt pork. 

The best fish for baking whole are fresh shad, bass, cod, blue- 
fish, haddock and small salmon. 

Time to Bake. — This depends on the size and character of the 
fish, varying from ^ to 1 hour usually. A medium sized shad or cod 
should bake in f hour. 

Oarnish with parsley, water== cresses or Saratoga potatoes, and 
serve a drawn butter or Hollandaise sauce with it. 

Stuffing for Baked Fish — Take 1 cup cracker crumbs, 1 teaspoon 
of salt, 1 saltspoon of pepper, 2 teaspoons of chopped parsley, 4 ta- 
blespoons melted butter. If it is wanted more moist, wet the crack- 
er crumbs with |- cup of warm water, or with 1 beaten egg. This 
makes a stuffing for a fish weighing 4 to 6 lbs. 

Stuffing, No. 2 — Take bread crumbs, 1 well beaten egg, 1 table- 
spoon chopped suet, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons 
minced onion, a little butter, pepper and salt. Stuff the fish, sew or 
tie up, and bake. 

Oyster Stuffing. — Prepare | pint of buttered cracker crumbs; then 
take 2 cups oysters, roll each one in the cracker crumbs (draining 
them first) and fill the fish with them; sprinkle the oysters with the 
balance of the crumbs, sew up the fish, and bake. 

Oyster Stuffing, No. 2. — Season a pint of oysters with salt, red pep 
per and lemon juice; fill the fish with the oysters, sew up, and bake 
as before directed. 

FILLET OF FISH. 

This consists of the flesh of fish, skinned, boned, and cut into 
small strips. (The word fillet means literally a thread or string). 
These strips (fillets) are usually dredged with salt and pepper, 
dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in crumbs, and fried like doughnuts in 
smoking hot fat. Time to fry, 1 or 2 minutes. On taking out lay 
them on paper a moment to drain. Serve on fried or toasted bread, 
or with a good fish sauce, like cream, tartar, or Hollandaise. The 
strips (fillets) are sometimes allowed to stand 1 hour, sprinkled with 
salt, pepper and lemon juice, and then baked, having melted butter 
in the pan and basting the fish with" it- When done, garnish and 
serve with a good fish sauce. 



FISH 57 

TURBAN OF FISH. 

This consists of fish prepared as directed above for fillets of fish, 
but the fillets (strips) of fish are rolled up and fastened with a small 
skewer, such as a wooden tooth pick. Then fry or bake as directed 
for fillets and serve the same way. 

PICKLED OR SPICED FISH. 

Use remains of any cold fresh fish, remove all skin and bones, 
put it in a deep dish, and add enough hot, spiced vinegar (prepared 
by boiling cloves and allspice in the vinegar for 10 minutes) to just 
cover. As soon as cold it can be used. 

FISH AU GRATIN. 

Cut an onion in small pieces, and fry it in 3 tablespoons of 
butter; skin and bone 2 lbs. fish, cut it in pieces, roll and dip it in 
flour, and fry it in the onion and butter, in a frying pan; let only 1 
side brown. Now pour over the onions and butter, 1 tablespoon 
lemon juice or vinegar, 3 tablespooons beef gravy or good meat 
extract, 4 tablespoons of tomatoes just out of the can, and the liquor 
from 1 pint of oysters. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, and 
here and there put bits of butter. Set the platter in the oven over a 
pan of hot water, to prevent the dish from breaking, and bake till the 
crumbs are brown. Season 1 pint of raw oysters with red pepper, 
salt and lemon juice; put them in a sauce=pan, and let them cook 
until they puff up. Shake the pan to keep them from burning, and 
when done, pour them around the fish. Shrimp or mushrooms may 
be used instead of oysters if more convenient. 

FISH BALLS. 

To 1 cup salt fish picked in pieces and freed from bones, take 2 
cups potatoes peeled and cut in small pieces; put all in a pan togeth- 
er, cover with boiling water and boil till the potato is soft but not 
soggy — about 25 minutes. Then drain, and mash and beat till very 
light; add a little pepper, 1 teaspoon of butter, and, when cooled a 
little, 1 well beaten egg, with a little more salt if needed. Then 
shape it into balls with a tablespoon. In shaping them press very 
lightly; if pressed hard they will be injured or ruined. Then fry 
like doughnuts in smoking hot fat about 1 minute; on taking out lay 
them on soft paper to drain. Or, if desired, the mixture can be fried 
till brown in a frying pan, with salt pork fat or butter, and then 
turned out like an omelet. These are delicious. 



58 FISH 

FISH CHOWDEK. 

Take three lbs. fish cut in pieces, 4 cups sliced potatoes and ^ lb. 
salt pork cut in thin slices. Fry the pork in a deep kettle till brown, 
but not burned; then over it put a layer of fish, then a layer of pota- 
toes well dredged with flour, pepper and salt. Repeat alternate layers 
till all is used; then pour on hot water, not quite to cover, and boil 
till the potatoes are tender. In another saucepan heat 4 cups milk, 
and when the potatoes are tender add it to the chowder with one heap- 
ing tablespoon of butter and | lb. fresh Boston crackers (if stale they 
will spoil the chowder) having first split and soaked them a few 
minutes in warm milk or water Boil up once and the dish is done. 
The broth should be about the consistency of a thin cream soup. 
The best fish to use are cod, haddock or striped bass. A good way to 
serve it is to put the fish and potatoes on a large platter, with the 
crackers in a circle around, and then strain the broth and put in a 
soup tureen. This will make an entire dinner of itself (soup, fish and 
vegetables,) adding, to finish, a simple dessert or a little fruit. Time 
to cook about ^ hour. 

UTIDIZING COLD FISH. 
CREAMED FISH — Use remnants of any cold fish left from din- 
ner, picking it to pieces and removing all bones. Make a cream 
sauce by cooking 2 tablespoons of butter and two tablespoons flour 
until they bubble; then add 2 cups milk, 1 teaspoon salt, and pep- 
per or cayenne. Butter a pudding dish, put in a layer of fish, then 
a layer of the sauce, and so on alternately. Spread bread or cracker 
crumbs on top, add bits of butter, and bake about 20 minutes in a hot 
oven. A little parsley, onion or lemon juice can be added to the 
sauce for flavor if desired. 

CURRY OF FISH — Use cold boiled or baked fish of any kind; 
pick it to pieces and remove all bones. In a little butter fry a 
sliced onion till quite brown; add 1 cup hot water and 1 teaspoon 
curry powder; then add 1 teaspoon of flour which has been mixed in a 
little cold water and freed from lumps. Then strain the sauce, put 
in the fish, heat till warmed through, and serve. 

ESCALLOPED FISH — Use remnants of any broiled, fried or 
baked fish left from dinner, picking the fish to pieces and removing 
all bones. Into a baking dish put alternate layers of the fish, and 
either mashed potatoes or cold boiled potatoes cut into small piec- 
es. Pour over a cream sauce made as directed for " Creamed Fish," 
and bake in a hot oven about ^ hour. 



FISH 59 

ESCALLOPED FISH No. 2 — Pick cold fish in pieces and remove 
all bones. Make a cream sauce as for "Creamed Fish." Into a pud- 
ding dish put a layer of fish, then a layer of bread or cracker crumbs; 
moisten it with the sauce, and season with salt and pepper, if needed, 
and put on bits of butter. Put in alternate layers in this way, fin- 
ishing with crumbs. Bake it in the oven till the crumbs are brown- 
ed on top — about 20 minutes. 

FISH CAKES — Take remnants of any cold fish, pull them to piec- 
es, and thoroughly incorporate with them a little butter and some 
mashed potatoes; season the whole with pepper and salt to taste, 
and a little cayenne if desired. Form the mixture-into cakes, and 
fry in smoking hot fat till of a golden brown. Serve garnished with 
parsley. Time to cook 1 or 2 minutes. 

FISH PIE. — Take any cold fish left from dinner, pick it into 
small pieces, removing all bones, and season with pepper and salt. 
Have a kettle of hot mashed potatoes, put half the potatoes into the 
bottom of a pudding dish, spread the fish on it, and cover with the 
remainder of the potato. Smooth over the top and brown in the 
oven 10 minutes. 

FISH AND OYSTER PIE — Take remnants of any cold fish, pick 
it in pieces, remove all bones, spread a layer in a pudding dish and 
sprinkle with pepper and salt; spread on a layer of bread or cracker 
crumbs and oysters and sprinkle with nutmeg and parsley, and so 
continue with alternate layers. Form a covering of either crumbs, 
which should be browned, or pufp paste, which should be cut into 
long strips and laid in cross=bars over the fish, with a line of the 
paste first laid around the edge, and bake. Before putting on the 
top, pour in some melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the 
oyster liquor. Time to bake, if of cooked fish, ^ hour; if made of 
fresh fish and puff paste, f hour. 

RE=DRESSED COLD FISH — Cut the fish into square pieces, 
and lay them neatly in a fiat dish; then cover them with mayonnaise 
sauce. Garnish with parsley and sliced beet^root if you have it. 
White fish or salmon may be dressed in this way. 

POTTED FISH. 

Clean the fish, skin it, remove the larger bones, and cut it in 
pieces. Mix together 3 tablespoons each of cloves, allspice and pep- 
percorns, 1 saltspoon of cayenne, and ^ cup of salt. Into a small 
stone jar (not earthenware) pack the fish in layers, sprinkling the 
mixture of spices between the layers. Put in vinegar enough to 



60 FISH 

cover, tie a thick paper over the top, and bake 5 or 6 hours in a mod- 
erate oven. It will keep some time in a cool place (if kept under the 
vinegar), and can be eaten cold or hot, making a fine relish for tea or 
lunch. The bones will be dissolved by the vinegar. 

CRIMPING FISH. 

This consists in striking the fish on the head when caught, and 
then making a number of transverse gashes in it; the fish is then put 
in cold water which makes the muscular fibres contract strongly, and 
the flesh becomes firmer than would otherwise be the case. Cod are 
often crimped, and are then thought to be firmer, better flavored, and 
to keep longer than when uncrimped. 

CAVIAR. 

This is the hard roe of sturgeon and other fish preserved by 
washing in vinegar and salting. It is pretty extensively prepared 
and used as an article of food in Russia, but in this country is 
served principally as a relish at the table, the mode of serving it 
being on dry toast with lemon juice squeezed on it. It is generally 
disliked at first, but is highly esteemed by those in whom the taste 
has been cultivated. It is now quite extensively manufactured in 
the United States. 

ANCHOVIES. 
FRIED — Slightly fry the little fish in their own oil; and serve 
them on thin fried toast. They make a nice accompaniment to the 
cheese course at dinner. 

ANCHOVIES ON TOAST.— Wash the fish in milk, dry them, 
remove the bones, and fillet them (each anchovy should make two 
fillets.) Put the fillets on nice strips of thin buttered toast, set in 
the oven a minute to heat, and serve. 

The anchovy is a small fish of the herring tribe caught principally in the Med- 
iterranean sea, the best coming from the island of Gorgona. It was weU known to 
the ancients, and they made a valued sauce from it called gareen. A large part of 
the anchovies put up in Europe are really sprats or pilchards, the name anchovy 
now indicating a peculiar method of preparing fish rather than the fish it- 
self. There is an American variety of the anchovy but it is mainly sold as white- 
bait. 

THE ALEWIFE. 

This fish can be dressed, and then fried, or sauted like brook 
trout. 

The alewife is an American fish, allied to the herring and shad. It abounds 
on the eastern coast of N. America, appearing in the late spring and early summer. 
It enters the rivers to spawn, but ascends only as far as the tide goes. Although 



FISH 61 

inferior to the herring they are a valuable food fish. They attain a length of from 
8 to 12 inches. It is the most abundant of any of our coast fishes. 

The Babbel belongs to the carp family and resembles the American sucker. 
Numerous species are found in Europe, but no true barbel is known in the United 
States. 

Tne Bleak is another European fish not found in the United States. 

BASS. 

Striped Bass — Those weighing less than 1 lb. can be allow ed to 
soak 1 hour in salted water (after cleaning and dressing); then 
drain, wipe dry, and fry in salt pork fat. Anchovy butter is nice 
with them. (2) Small striped or black bass can be filleted, as previ- 
ously directed for filleting fish. Serve a good sauce, like tartare with 
them. (3) Those weighing from 1 to 3 lbs. can be broiled. (4) 
Those weighing 5 to 8 lbs. can be boiled as previously directed foi 
fish. Time to boil, 20 to 30 min- 
utes according to the size. (5) 
They can be stuffed and baked as 
previously directed for baking fish . 
(6) Very large ones can be cut in 
pieces and boiled, steamed, fried, 

or broiled as previously directed stbiped bass. 

for cooking fish by those meth- 
ods, at the beginning of this chapter. They often reach a weight 
of 20 lbs. 

Black Bass. — The smaller ones can be cooked as directed for 
small striped bass, and the larger ones broiled. The flesh is hard, 
white and flaky, but not specially flavored. 

This fish bears many names in different localities, being called Chub in North 
Carolina, Jumper in Kentucky, and Moss Bass in Indiana. Otsego Bass is a local 
name for Whitefish. There is much confusion in the use of the name bass, it being 
often applied to fish which have no claim to the title. 

The White Bass — these usually weigh from 1 to 3 lbs. They are 
often also called perch. Cook them as directed for small striped 




The Yellow Bass, which is often called Bar-fish in the south 
closely resembles the white bass in size and color, and is cooked the 
same. 

BLACKFISH. 

These are very nice made into fillets as previously directed for 
filleting fish. Serve with tartare or other good fish sauce. It makes 
an excellent chowder. It is also good boiled. Proceed as directed 
for cooking fish by these methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The blackfish is an inhabitant of the coasts of Europe, but is rare because it 



62 FISH 

inhabits deep waters. It often attains a length of 2% feet, and a weight of 12 to 
15 lbs. It is an excellent food fish. Its flesh is firm, flaky and very sweet. It is 
variously known as "Sea=bass," Rock^bass," "Black=Will," "Black=Harry " and 
"Hannahills." 

'^ BONITO. 

This fish is best broiled or grilled as previously directed for 
broiling fish, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The bonito is found only in the Atlantic basis. It is often called "Skipjack" 
in the Boston market. The fish is not very common, but is a marvel of beauty 
and strength, and is nearly equal to the Spanish Mackerel as a food fish. 

The Bbill is a European fish allied to the turbot, but inferior to it as a food 
fish. It is not found in American waters. 

THE BKEAM, 

The American variety belongs to the species of suiifish, and is 
not very highly esteemed. It is best cooked as a jjan-fish — that is 
fried or sauted in the frying pan. 

The European variety is much used for food. There is much confusion in the 
use of the name "bream," as it is applied both to a sea*fish and to several varie- 
ties of fresh water fish. 

BLUEFISH. 

This is excellent stuffed and baked as previously directed for 
baked fish, at the beginning of this chapter. Serve with it any fish 
sauce liked best. (2) It can be boiled as directed for boiling fish, 
at the beginning of this chapter. Or (3) it can be cut in steaks and 
fried in salt pork fat in the frying pan, or cut in pieces, egg and 
bread^crumbed, and fried in smoking hot fat till of a golden brown 
color. Garnish as directed for fried fish at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The bluefish is an American fish, and it has never been found on the coast of 
Europe. It is the most destructive 
fish known, devouring eagerly all other 
varieties of fish. The size of the fish 
varies in different localities from 2 or 
3 lbs. on the southern coast, to 15 or 
20 lbs. on the northern coasts. The 
flesh is sweet and savory but does 
not keep very well. They appear on 
the coast from May to October. the bluefish. 

BUTTERFISH. 

These are excellent when fresh if fried in salt pork fat in the 
frying pan. They can also be broiled or filleted as directed for fish 
at the beginning of this chapter. They are nice boiled and a good 
sauce served with them. 

The butterfish is found along the Atlantic coast from Maine to the Carolinas 
They attain a length of 7 or 8 inches. Their flavor somewhat resembles the 
mackerel, but they are not so oily. They are excellent eating when properly 




FISH 63 

cooked. When freshly caught their color is iridescent and beautiful, resembling 
the dolphin. The "Harvest=fish," "Dollar=fish," "Sheepshead," "Skipjack" and 
"Starsfish" are different names applied to this fish or to nearly allied species. 

THE CARP. 

Dress, and if it comes from stagnant or muddy water let it soak 
in salt water for an hour, or sprinkle on salt and let it stand over 
night. (1) It is nice stuffed and baked as previously directed for 
baking fish. Or (2) it can be stewed as directed previously for fish, 
and garnished with fried bread. (3) It is also nice fried as directed 
previously for fish. . It may be improved by letting it soak a little 
while before cooking it, in vinegar flavored with thyme, parsley and 
nutmeg. 

The carp is a native of Asia, but it has been naturalized in many countries on 
account of its value as food. It is said to live 150 to 200 years. Its weight is 
from 3 or 4 lbs. at 3 years of age, to 15 or 20 lbs. at 6 or 7 years. It prefers stag- 
nant or slowly running waters with a muddy bottom. Its quality depends much 
upon its habitat. In stagnant water it tastes strongly muddy. It should then be 
freshened by soaking it in salted water. 

CATFISH. 

Dress and always soak it in salted water, or leave it over night 
with salt sprinkled on, to remove the muddy taste. (1) It can then 
be cooked as previously directed for "Stewed Fish." (2) Fried. 
Prepare it as above, then drain, dredge with flour or corn=meal, and 
fry in a little fat. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Waffles 
are nice with this dish. (3) It is also good when steamed. (4) Cut 
it in pieces and fry it in smoking hot fat, proceeding as directed for 
cooking fish by these methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

CATFISH CHOWDER — Dress the fish and let it soak a little 
while in salted water.' Then boil it, (in just enough water to cover 
it) until tender. Take out the 
largest bones, chop the fish, and 
put it into a stew pan; add 2 
cups hot water, 1 cup milk or 
cream, 2 tablespoons of butter, 
1 onion, 1 teaspoon mustard, 

salt, pepper and A teacup wal- ^^^ catfish. 

nut catsup; stew till thick and 
serve hot. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

The catfish is a species of the family siluridae and is found in American rivers 
and lakes. The common catfish or horned pout of the eastern states attains a 
length of 7 to 9 inches, but in the west and in the great lakes they sometimes grow 
to a length of 4 feet and attain a weight of 50 to 150 lbs. 

" The Bull-head" " Bull=}jout" and '■' Horned-itout" of the eastern states is the 
common representative of the catfish in those regions. They are detested by those 




64 FISH 

■who do not like them, but that is partly, at least, owing to not cooking them prop- 
erly. When well cooked they are very palatable, resembling the eel in texture and 
flavor. Many of our common fish are not appreciated as they deserve to be for 
food. 

THE CHAR. 

The char belongs to the same species and is very similar to the 
trout. The method of cooking is the same. It is a delicious food 
fish. (See Trout.) 

THE CHUB. 

This is best fried in the frying-pan after being caught, as direct- 
ed for frying fish at the beginning of this chapter. 

The chub is closely related to the dace and minnows. It reaches a length of 10 
or 12 inches and rarely attains a weight of 5 lbs. There are many American spe- 
cies, but they are not highly esteemed for food. 

CODFISH. 

When fresh, the cod is excellent stuffed and baked as previously 
directed for baking fish. (2) It is excellent also stewed or fried, as 
directed for fish. (3) It is nice boiled whole as directed for other 
fish, but if boiled quite fresh it is apt to be watery; it is rendered 
firmer by being salted a little. If a large cod is boiled whole the 
upper part is so much thicker than the tail that the latter may be 
boiled to rags before the rest is cooked. The head and shoulders 
are therefore generally boiled; the rest may be fried, or stewed in 
slices. (4) Cold boiled cod is very nice creamed, curried or escal- 
loped as directed for preparing fish in these ways, at the beginning 
of this chapter. 

CODFISH BALLS.— Make as previously directed for "Fish 
Balls." 

ESCALLOPED CODFISH.— If salt codfish is used, freshen it by 
soaking it in water or sour milk. Then proceed as previously di- 
rected for " Escalloped Fish." 

BROILED SALT CODFISH — Soak it ^ hour in cold water, dry, 
and broil 10 or 12 minutes over a moderate fire. Put it on a warm 
platter and spread on butter, cutting it in several places to let the 
butter penetrate the fish, and serve. 

CODFISH TOAST. — Shred 1 teacup nice salt codfish, and soak 
it over night in cold water. In the morning thicken 2 cups milk 
slightly with flour, add 1 well beaten egg, and boil ^ hour; then add 
the codfish (which should have been well drained in a colander) 
and let it boil 5 miivutes longer, and spread it over nice well but- 
tered toast; serve hot. 



FISH 65 

SALT CODFISH OMELET.— Soak a piece of codfish about 3 
inches square over night. Split 3 crackers and lay them in enough 
cold water to cover them. Pick the fish up fine and mix well with 
the crackers, and add 1 well beaten egg, 1 tablespoon of butter, and 
salt and pepper. Take 2 cups milk and 1 teaspoon of corn=starch and 
boil 5 minutes, and pour it over the other ingredients. Bake 20 min 
utes. 

CODFISH TONGUES.— Wash them thoroughly in cold water 
and then boil them in slightly salted water. When done, drain 
them, arrange them on a napkin on a hot dish, and garnish with 
slices of lemon and parsley. Serve cream sauce with them. Time 
to boil about | hour. 

COD SOUNDS — These usually come salted. Soak them all 
night in cold water, then scrape and rub off the dark skin with a 
cloth, wash thoroughly, and then boil them very gently in equal 
parts of fresh milk and water until tender. Be careful to remove 
the scum as it rises. Serve them on a hot napkin with egg sauce. 
Time to boil about f hour per pound. 

SCROD — This is a term applied in the east to small cod. They 
can soak over night in salted water and then be boiled or fried, as 
previously directed for fish at the beginning of this chapter. 

TOMCODS — These are small codfish. They are nice fried as 
follows. Do not remove the heads, but dress, clean, dry, and rub 
salt on the inside. Dredge with flour and fry a golden brown in 
deep,- smoking hot fat. (2) They can also be baked. Dress as 
above, put in the baking pan, put a thin slice of bacon on each one, 
add pepper and salt, and bake in a hot oven. Time to bake about 
20 minutes. S^rve with slices of lemon. They are sometimes called 
" Tommies." 

The Codfish is found in the northern Atlantic, but is not known in tlie Med- 
iterranean sea. It is the most important of our food fishes. Cod tonfjues, and 
sounds, {i. e. airbladders) are esteemed a delicacy, and are often salted for the 
market. Cod is less digestible than most other white fish, and is hardly suitable 
for invalids, being more difiQcult of digestion than is commonly imagined. 

DACE. 

This is nice either fried in the frying-pan (sauted), or broiled, 
as directed for cooking fish by these methods at the beginning of 
this chapter. 

The dace is common in western Europe, but it is not very highly esteemed for 
food. There are many allied species in the United States, as the horned dace 
found in clear streams in the east which attains a length of 10 or 12 inches. The 
"horns" develop on the males in the breeding season, but arc absent at other 
times. 



66 



FISH 



The John Doky is a marine fish found on the coasts of Europe. It has a 

large head with a black spot on each side, and it attains a length of 18 inches. 
The French Canadians apply the name to a species of pike. It is not found in 
America. 

THE DRUM. 

The young make a fine pan=fish, ?. e. fried in the frying pan. 
The large ones are not much esteemed for food. 

The drum derives its name from the drumming noise which it makes. It is 
found on the gulf coast and as far north as Maryland. When young and fresh the 
flavor is agreeable, but the flesh is coarse though tender. 

EELS. 

Eels should always be skinned, and the head cut off and thrown 
away. They can then be washed dried, and cut into lengths about 
3 inches long. They are sometimes allowed to then soak a short 
time in a little water and vinegar, which improves them. They can 
then be fried, as previously 
directed for frying fish, in 
deep smoking hot fat. Serve 
tomato, pickle or any acid 
sauce with them. They can 
also be broiled, stewed or 
boiled as directed for cook- 
ing fish by those methods at 
the beginning of this chapter. 




CONGEB EEIi. 



THE FLOUNDER. 

This is nice fried. Scrape the fish, cut off the head and tail, 
wash, dry, and fry as directed for frying fish. Time to fry about 6 
or 7 minutes. They are often broiled as directed for fish at the 
beginning of this chapter. They make nice fillets also. Serve a 
good fish sauce with the latter. 

The Floundee is found along the 
Atlantic coast from Cape Cod to Florida. 
They lie upon the bottom or bury them- 
Helves in the sand. They attain a length 
of 12 to 30 inches, and a weight of 2 to 8 
lbs. It is a flat fish having both t yes on 
the same side of the head. The upper 
side is darker than the lower. They live 
long out of the water. The flounder is 
easy of digestion, but is best broiled 
when intended for weak stomachs. 

FROGS. 
The hind legs only are used. Skin and put them for 3 minutes 
in boiling salted %vater containing a little lemon juice; then drain 
and wipe dry. Fry the fat from 2 or 3 slices of thin salt pork; dip 




FLOUNDEB. 



FISH 67 

the frogs' legs in beaten egg and then m flour, and fry a delicate 
brown. Or (2) dip them in bread crumbs, then season with j)epper 
and salt, dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry a golden 
brown in smoking hot fat. (3) If preferred they can be broiled. 
Or (4) stew them in a little water seasoned with salt, pepper and 
herbs; stew until tender, then let the water boil out, put in a bit of 
butter and let them brown. Serve with parsley, water-cresses or 
X>e.pper-grass and lettuce. (5) Frogs' legs are also made into a broth 
the same as chicken broth. 

Seventy years ago, Charles Lamb wrote to a friend: "Since I saw you I tiave 
been in France and have eaten frogs, the nicest little rabbity things you ever tast- 
ed. Pick ofif the hind^quarters; boil them plain, and serve with parsley and 
butter.'' 

THE GKAYLING. 

This belongs to the same species as the trout. It is found in 
Europe and America, but is con- 
fined to special localities. It is 
a very gamey fish, and is deli- 
cious eating. It is cooked in the 
same ways as brook trout 
(which see). the gbayling. 

The Gudgeon is a European fish belonging to the carp family. It is not com- 
mon in the U. S. 

GUENARD. 

The large ones can be boiled, or stewed, or stuffed and baked, as 
previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. Small ones 
can be broiled or fried, as directed for fish, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The gurnard is much eaten in Europe, but is neglected in America. The flesh 
is a flaky white, firm, and most agreeable eating. It deserves more attention. 

HADDOCK. 

When fresh the haddock is very nice (1) broiled or (2) stuffed 
or (3) baked. It is also good (4) boiled or (5) steamed, or (6) 
fried, and (7) it makes a splendid chowder. (8) It is also nice 
filleted. Proceed as previously directed for cooking fish by those 
methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

Smoked haddock, if very salt, should be soaked 1 or 2 hours in 
water. Then the simplest and best way to cook it is to broil it over a 
clear fire. Time to boil 1 to 10 minutes according to its thickness. 
Rub on butter before sending it to the table. It can also be boiled, 
or boiled a short time and then baked. 




(38 FISH 

DRIED HADDOCK, STEWED— Warm the haddock before the 
fire just enough to make the skin peel off easily. Cut it into i^ieces 
down the middle, and 2 or 3 times across. Put it into a closed 
saucepan, with a lump of butter and a teaspoon of water and stew 
gently a few minutes. 

The haddock is found in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and immense 
quantities are now caught. Their average length is about 10 to 15 inches, and 
their weight 3 or 4 lbs. although they sometimes attain a weight of 12 or 15 lbs. 
When very large its flesh is coarse. It does not take salt as well as the cod, 
although it belongs to the same family, and it is often smoked and dried. It is in 
season from October to January. It is wholesome, nutritious, and easy of diges- 
tion. 

HAKE, 

This fish is not often eaten except when salted, but it is some- 
times (1) boiled, or (2) stuffed and baked, or (3) stewed, or (4) 
made into fillets, the methods being the same as directed for other 
fish at the beginning of this chapter. When salted and dried it 
much resembles codfish, and is often sold for it. The method of 
cooking is the same. 

The hake belongs to the cod family 
and is found in the North Atlantic. It is 
sometimes 3 or 4 feet in length. Its 
flesh is white and flaky.. 

illl IlAIvl . 

THE HALIBUT. 

This excellent fish is nice either (1) baked, (2) broiled, (3) 
boiled, (4) steamed, or (5) made into fillets, as previously directed 
for cooking fish by those methods. (6) When cold it is excellent 
creamed or j)repared by the other recipes given for cold fish at 
the beginning of this chajpter. 

HALIBUT STEAKS— Fry the fat thoroughly from 4 thick slices 
of clear salt pork; take out the pork when crisp; roll the steaks in 
flour or yellow corn^meal, and put in the pan; fry over a hot fire, but 
do not scorch; when done on one side, turn carefully with a fish or 
pie knife, and when done, have both sides a golden brown. Place 
the fish on a platter; send to the table, with cream gravy made in 
the pan after taking up the fish. Serve with cucumber pickles. 

HALIBUT, PICKLED— Take a piece of cold boiled halibut, put 
it in a bowl and pour over it hot vinegar in which has been boiled 
for 8 or 10 minutes a little red pepper and 1 blade of mace; let it 
stand 2 days before using. 




FISH 



69 



The halibut is emphatically a cold 
water fish, being found in the north 
Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It is 
the largest of the cold water fish, 
sometimes attaining a weight 
of 300 lbs. Those weighing SO 
to iO lbs. are best. Its eyes are 
both on the same side of the head, 
and it is dark on the upper and white 
on the lower side. The flesh is 
white and firm, but dry. It is high- 
ly esteemed for food, but is not equal 
to the turbot. 




THE HALIBUT. 



THE HERRING. 

Fresh, herrings are excellent either (1) broiled or grilled, or (2) 
baked, or (3) boiled, or (4) fried, or (5) made into fillets, as directed 
for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

SMOKED HERRING, BROILED.— Let them stand 10 minutes 
covered with boiling water. Then skin, wipe dry, and broil them 
over clear coals. Put them on a warm dish, moisten with butter, 
and serve. Time to broil, about 7 or 8 minutes. 

The herring is the most important food fish known. Enormous quantities are 
caught every year. It is eaten fresh, and is smoked, dried and pickled. It is very 
oily, and not very digestible, but it is exceedingly nutritious. The so called her- 
ring of the great lakes is a kind of whitefish. 

Bloateb is an English name applied to herring prepared for the market by 
slightly salting, smoke-drying, etc. 

THE LAMPREY. 

The lamprey is like a very tough eel. It can be cooked like eel, 
only it requires to cook longer, (See eel.) 



The lamprey is an eeHike fish, having a car- 
tilagenous body, without scales, and a round, 
sucking mouth with numerous teeth. It is found 
in Europe, and there are several species in the 
U. S. They are very tenaceous of life, and are 
prized by some for food. . 




THE LAMPBBY. 



LING, CUSK OR BURBOT 

The ling is caught in the northern seas, and it is a fish belong- 
ing to the same family as the cod and hake, which it much resembles. 
It can be (1) boiled or (2) fried or (3) stewed, treating it the same 
as the cod, and (4) it makes a good soup. The fish is wholesome 
and nutritious, alihough not much used fresh. It takes salt well, 
and large quantities are prepared for the market. It is also dried. 

Cusk, Burbot and Eehpoiit are otSer names for the same or very 
similar fish. 



70 FISH 

MACKEKEL. 

• This fish is excellent if eaten fresh, but it spoils easily. In 
dressing and cleaning be careful not to break the skin. One of the 
best ways to cook it is to broil it. Time to broil, 15 to 20 minutes. 
(2) It is excellent steamed, and many people can eat it that way who 
cannot when broiled. It is also good (3) when boiled or (4) fried or 
or (5) filleted, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by 
those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

PICKLED MACKEREL.— Boil fresh mackerel. Then take the 
liquor it was cooked in, add 1 cuj) vinegar, ^ oz. whole black pepper, 
2 bay leaves, and boil all 7 or 8 minutes; pour it over the mackerel, 
cover tightly, and let stand 24 hours, when it will be ready for use. 

BROILED SALT MACKEREL.— Take a medium sized salt mack- 
erel and soak it over night in cold water. In the morning dry it, 
rub on a little butter, and broil it nicely, but not too long. When 
done, plunge it into boiling water a moment, which makes it swell 
up and look fat. Then put it on a hot plate, add a little melted but- 
ter, lemon juice and pepper, and serve. 

CREAMED SALT MACKEREL.— Soak the fish over night, and 
wipe dry the next morning; heat the gridiron, butter it, and broil the 
fish over a clear fire; lay it on a hot platter while you make a sauce 
as follows: Heat 1 cup of milk to near boiling, and thicken it with 
2 teaspoons of corn^starch rubbed smooth in' 2 teaspoons of butter; 
add salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, and when taken from 
the stove and partly cool, stir in 1 beaten egg; then pour it over the 
fish and serve. A nice breakfast dish in hot weather. 

The mackerel is found in the northern Atlantic, and immense quantities are 
used as food. Its usual length is about 16 to 18 inches, and its weight 2 lbs. It is 
very nourishing although difficult of digestion by weak stomachs. 

The " Spanish Maokeeel '' is caught on the Atlantic coast, but it is not very 
highly esteemed for food. 

THE MENHADDEN. 

This fish is best (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted, proceed- 
ing as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning 
of this chapter. 

The menhadden belongs to the same family as the shad and herring, and is 
extensively caught along the Atlantic coast of the U. S. It is not much eaten fresh, 
as it is full of bones and very oily. It is now put up and sold for sardines, the 
bones being softened by steam. • 

THE MULLET. 

This fish frequently has an earthy taste. That can be removed, 
as in other fish, by soaking it in salted water for an hour or two, or 




FISH 71 

sprinkle on salt and leave it over night. It can then be stuffed and 
baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It can also be split 
and broiled. Or (3) it may be fried, or (4) filleted. It is sometimes 
(5) boiled or (6) steamed, proceeding as directed for fish at the be- 
ginning of this chapter. 

Mullet Roes are often eaten raw and they are also salted and dried 
in the sun. They are then eaten raw like dried beef, or they can be 
fried. 

The mullet is found in both Europe 
and the U. S. The red mullet of Europe 
is considered the best. The mullet is 
very plentiful along the gulf coast of 
the U. S., and two varieties are found, 
the Striped and White. It attains an 
average length of about a foot and steiped mullet. 

weight of about 1% lbs. 

MUSKELLUNGE. 

(1) This fish is nice stuffed and baked as previously directed 
for baking fish. (2) It is often cut in pieces the right size for 
the table, rolled in corn meal, and fried in smoking hot fat like 
doughnuts, until of a rich golden brown. (3) It is also often fried 
in the frying-pan in salt pork fat, and garnished with the crisp slices 
of pork. It can also be (4) stewed as directed for stewing fish at the 
beginning of this chapter. 

The muskellunge belongs to the pike family, and is found in the Great Lakes 
and the St. Lawrence river. The flesh is superior to that of any of the rest of the 
species of pike. It is sometimes called " lake trout." 

THE PEECH. 

To facilitate removing the scales it may be plunged into boiling 
water for a moment. It is in America quite generally fried in the 
frying pan with salt pork fat. (2) It is nice fried in deep fat as 
previously directed for frying fish. (3) It is also good broiled or 
(4) stewed, as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the 
beginning of this chapter. 

The true perch is the common yellow perch of Europe and America. In re- 
gions where the true perch is not found the name is loosely applied to various 
fishes. All the true perches are confined to the north temperate zone. This fish 
loves still waters and is very voraceous and tenaceous of life. The flesh is firm, of 
good flavor and digestible. 

PICKEREL. 

This fish is cooked in the same ways as pike, (which see). 

The pickeiel is a diminutive pike. It is rarely more than a foot in length, but 
it sometimes attains a weight of 5 to 8 lbs. The flesh is the same as the pike's. 
In the southern states it is called the " Jack." 



72 FISH 

PIKE. 

This fish should be carefully scaled and cleaned. It is very nice 
stuffed and baked as i^reviously directed for baking fish. (2) It 
can also be boiled or (3) fried or (4) stewed or (5) filleted, as pre- 
viously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning 
of this chapter. 

and America, and is exceedingly vora- !^^^^^M^M^^~^ "-^^^ ""^^^j !!^ --^^v ^. 

The fleah is much esteemed for food, ^^i ' .— — j ^ l^' ^ ^: ""~Z^^^^^ 

although jfc is ratlier dry. Those of ^"^ ~— =^ ' ^ 

moderjite size are better than very ^^^ pike. 

large ontv. Tiie roe of the pike is made into caviare, and in some countries the 
flesh is dried and salted. 

THE PLAICE. 

This is an excellent fish, the best being those with a thick, firm 
body. Large fish should be skinned, but small ones need not be, 
but it is best to remove the head and fins, and clean thoroughly. 
The fish is excellent (1) boiled, or (2) baked, or (8) broiled, or (4) 
fried, and (5) it is very nice steamed. (6) Small ones are proba- 
bly best fried or baked. Proceed as directed for cooking fish by 
these various methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The plaice belongs to the same family as the flounder and turbot. It is a flat 
fish having both eyes on the same side of the head. It seeks sandy and muddy 
bottoms, and attains a weight of 6 to 12 lbs. It is light, digestible, and -when fresh 
has a delicate flavor. Invalids can eat it without fear. 

THE PORGY. 
This fish is found along the southern Atlantic coasts. It is -best 
fried in the frying pan, with salt pork fat. 

RED SNAPPER. 

This fish is best (1) boiled, or (2) stuffed and baked as previous- 
ly directed for cooking fish by those methods, (3) It also makes an 
excellent chowder. Medium sized fish will boil in 30 to 40 minutes, 
while to bake them will take about 1 hour. 

Snapper is a name applied to several different fish in the U. S. The red snap- 
per is a fish found along the gulf coast of the U. S. It resembles the porgy aud is 
highly esteemed for food. 

THE POLLOCK OR COALFISH. 

This fish is found in the north Atlantic and belongs to the 
same family as the cod and whiting. Owing to an unwise pre- 
judice it is very much underestimated as food. Some who have in- 
vestigated the subject say that they prefer it, when salted, to cod. 




FISH 73 

It is rather deficient in flavor, but makes a gooa curry. It can be 
cooked by any of the recipes given elsewhere for codfish. 

THE POMPANO. 

This fish can be (1) broiled, or (2) baked or (3) boiled or 
(4) steamed or (5) filleted, as directed for cooking fish by those 
methods at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The pompano is found both on 
the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. It ap- 
pears chiefly in the summer and fall. 
There are several varieties. The flesh 
is fat, rich and delicious, being consid- 
ered the best of all the food fishes, and 
they usually command a very high 
price. 

THE POMPANO. 

THE KAY OR SKATE. 

This fish can be either (1) boiled or (2) fried or (3) stewed or 
(4) curried, as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. 
The Skate is a species of the Ray family. 

THE ROACH. 

This fish is probably best (1) fried, but (2) is also good baked, 
(if baked, be sure and baste it well.) (3) It can also be stewed, or 
(4) filleted, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by 
those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The roach belongs to the same family as the carp, dace, etc. It is common to 
both Europe and America. The name is applied in America to several species of 
fish, and sometimes to sunfish. 

FISH ROES. 

The hard, yellow, granular roe is the spawn or eggs of fish, 
and comes from the female, and the soft whitish roe is the milt, 
which comes from the male. For frying (either the hard or the soft) 
wash them, then parboil by putting them for 10 minutes in boiling 
salted water containing 1 tablespoon of vinegar; then take out, plunge 
in cold water, drain, egg and bread=crumb, and fry in hot fat till a 
nice brown. They are also sometimes sauted or fried in a frying- 
pan, being first cut in slices f inch thick and egg and breads crumbed. 

FISH ROES, BAKED.— Parboil them in slightly salted water 
for 10 minutes; then drain them on a cloth, lay them on thin slices 
of breakfast=bacon in a baking=tin, place thin slices of bacon over the 
roe, and set it in a hot oven until the bacon is baked crisp and brown. 
Serve with any one of the fish sauces preferred. 



74 FISH 

FISH ROES, BOILED.— Boil them m slightly salted water lor 
30 minutes; if small, they will cook in less time. Do not let them 
break in pieces. In the meantime make a nice butter gravy, add to 
it a very little chojoped parsley, and pour it over the roe, after plac- 
ing it on a hot platter. 

FISH ROES, BROILED.— Parboil the roes for 10 or 15 minutes 
in slightly salted water to harden them, drain on a cloth, and wipe 
them dry; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker-crumbs, and broil over a 
clear fire of coals until well browned on both sides; place them on a 
hot - platter, spread them with butter, or pour over them any fish 
sauce preferred. 

The fecundity of fish has always excited the wonder of naturalists. The males 
have the milt, and the females the ?*oe. The greater number deposit their spawn in 
the sand or gravel, but some of those who dwell in the depths of the ocean attach 
their eggs to sea=weeds. According to Lewenhoeck, the cod annually spawn up- 
wards of 9,000,000 of eggs; the flounder 1,000.000, the sturgeon 700,000; the perch 
■iOO.OOO the mackerel 500,000; the herring 10,000. Fish roes form a cheap and ap- 
petizing dish for those who like them. 

SALMON. 

Probably the two best ways of cooking salmon are by ( 1 ) broiling, 
or (2) boiling. (3) Salmon steaks are very nice broiled, steamed or 
fried. (4) Fillets of salmon are nice fried; or first parboiled or 
steamed, and then stewed in a good brown or matelote sauce. In 
cooking salmon by the above methods proceed as directed for cook- 
ing fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

Cold Salmon, may be prepared by any of the various recipes giv- 
en for cold fish at the beginning of this chapter. 

Salmon is nice spiced, as directed in our recipe for spiced fish 
previously given. 

SALMON CUTLETS — Cut slices of salmon -^ inch thick, remove 
skin and bone, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle on flour, dip in 
beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Or they can be 
fried in a frying=pan. 

SALMON STEAKS — Salmon steaks are good broiled and served 
with piccalilli heated and piled in the middle, and with a hot sauce 
poured round, but not over the fish. A very simple but delicious 
way of cooking salmon is to cut it in slices, and grill it, serving it 
at once with a good squeeze of lemon juice, and a dust of cayenne on 
v^ach side. 

Large Trout cooked in the same way are equally good. 

SALMON TOAST — Soak 2 oz. of bread crumbs in cold milL 
and mix with a can of salmon which has been worked to a paste. 



FISH 75 

Add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, season with salt, pepper, a little nut- 
meg, and the grated peel of | a lemon. Put into a dish, and on the 
top place beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a moderate oven, and 
when the top is slightly brown, it is ready to serve. 

CANNED SALMON — A good way to serve it for breakfast, is to 
heat it, add pepper and salt to season, and serve on slices of toast, 
pouring over milk, thickened with flour and butter. 

Another way to use canned salmon is to put the can for about 20 
minutes in a kettle of hot water; then turn it into a dish, and pour 
on drawn butter, to which finely cut hard boiled eggs and chopped 
parsley has been added; eat with mashed potatoes. 

SALMON, GERMAN STYLE— Take 2 pints sauerkraut, boil. 
drain, pile it on a dish, and make a hole in the center; have 1 lb. 
hot canned salmon ready, put it in the hole; heat and season the 
salmon liquid, pour it over the dish and serve. 

SMOKED SALMON, BROILED.— Smoked salmon is nice 
washed, drained, and broiled nicely. Then put it on a warm dish, 
spread on butter, and serve. 

The Salmon is found in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. There are many 
varieties. Although the fish is considered most delicious when fresh, it is said to 
be more wholesome when kept 1 or 2 days. It is very nutritious, but should be 
eaten in moderation. 

SARDINES. 

These are nice broiled. Do not break them in taking from the 
can. Scrape off the skin carefully, and broil to a delicate brown 
between double wire broilers. Then put them in a hot dish and 
serve with lemon juice squeezed over them. They are also nice with 
orange juice. 

To serve sardines, the oil can be drained from them, and then 
place them on any small ornamental dish. Some people cover them 
with fresh olive oil, and others do not, as tastes differ. They can 
be garnished with parsley, pepper-grass or lettuce. Set a dish of 
quartered lemons near them. 

SARDINES ON TOAST.- -Take 3 eggs, 3 sardines, 3 slices of 
buttered toast. Bone the sardines and pound them in a mortar with 
a pinch of salt, a little pepper, and cayenne. Spread this paste on 
the hot buttered toast. Heat |- pint of cream, and, when hot, add 
the eggs well beaten with a Dover beater. Stir well until almost 
boiling; then pour it over the sardines and toast, and send to the 
table. Sufficient for 3 persons. 




76 FISH 

Sardines belong to the same order as the herring. They abound in the Medi- 
terranean, and are also found in parts of the Atlantic. They appear in shoals, are 
caught with nets, and are salted, dried, soaked in boiling oil and put into boxes 
and covered with oil. A good many of the fish sold as sardines are really sprats, 
cured and preserved in the same way. A variety named anchovied sardines are 
sardines that have been cured in red wine. Sardines are very wholesome, and fur- 
nish an agreeable addition to the table. 

THE SCUPPAUG. 

The scup, or scuppaug, is very abundant in the eastern market 
in some seasons. (1) Small 
ones are best fried in the frying 
pan. (2) Large ones can be 
broiled, and a rich sauce served 
with them. The flesh is rather 
dry, and flavorless. 



THE SOUPPATJG. 

SHAD. 

This fish is probably best broiled. The fish is apt to be dry. 
The secret of having it juicy is to rub it with melted butter or salad 
oil before broiling it. Then broil it over a clear coal fire, It will 
take 20 or 30 minutes. When done, spread with butter, salt and 
pepper. A cream or bechamel sauce is often served with it. (2) 
Many people prefer this fish baked Stuff and bake it as directed 
for baking fish. It will take from 1 to 1| hours to bake, 

Dressing for Baked Shad. — Boil up the gravy in which the shad 
was baked, put in a large tablespoon of browned flour which has been 
wet with a little cold water, and the juice of 2 lemons. Pour it 
around the fish after it is placed on the platter, or serve it in a sauce= 
boat. 

(3) It is also nice fried, proceeding as directed for frying fish, at 
the beginning of this chapter. (4) It is sometimes potted. See our 
recipe for potting fish, given at the beginning of this chapter. 

The shad is found only in the northern hemisphere. The American shad 
is best. They attain a length of 2 to 3 feet, and weight of 4 to 8 lbs. 

SHEEPSHEAD. 

This fish is excellent boiled. Proceed as previously directed for 
boiling fish. (2) It is probably best steamed. Take a medium sized 
fish, dress, clean, rub with a little salt, wrap it in a cloth and then 
steam. Time to steam, about 1 hour. Then garnish with parsley 
and slices of lemon, and serve with drawn butter or other good fish 




FISH 77 

sauce. (3) It is excellent broiled. Split it in two lengthwise, 
remove the head and backbone, rub on butter or salad oil, and broil 
over a clear fire. When done spread on butter, add salt and pepper, 
and squeeze on lemon juice, and serve. (4) It is also nice stuffed 
and baked as directed previously for baking fish, at the beginning of 
this chapter. 

The eheepshead is found in the warm- 
er waters of the Atlantic, south of Cape 
Cod. It sometimes exceeds 2 feet in 
length, and weighs 14 or 15 lbs., but its 
average weight is 5 or 6 lbs. Its flesh is 
very delicate and has been likened to the 
English turbot, and is one of the best of 
our food fish. 



THE SHEEP8HEAD. 

SMELTS. 
Smelts, small trout, and all small pan fish are better dressed 
with scissors than with a knife. 

BAKED SMELTS.— This delicious little fish is of a fine silvery 
appearance, with a light" fawn=colored shade on the back, and when 
fresh, has an odor resembling cucumbers. Wash and dry them with 
a cloth ; arrange them in a buttered flat baking dish ; cover them with 
a layer of fine, fresh bread crumbs, first sprinkling the fish with a 
little salt and white pepper; place bits of butter over the bread 
crumbs and bake until a nice brown, say 20 or 30 minutes. Send to 
the table in the dish in which they were baked; squeeze the juice of 
a lemon over them just before sending to the table. 

FRIED SMELTS.— They may be fried in a little butter after the 
manner of cooking small trout, or in the fat of a slice of salt pork; 
or they may be strung, 6 on a wire skewer, dipped in egg and then 
cracker crumbs, and cooked in boiling fat like doughnuts. Sauce 
tartare is nice with them when fried. So is anchovy, cucumber, or 
other good sauce. 

BROILED. — Clean, split, and broil them nicely in a double wire 
broiler. Serve sauce tartare with them, or slices of lemon. 

The smelt is found in both Europe and America, and belongs to the same 
family as the trout and salmon. Most of the species inhabit salt water, but some 
are found in fresh. The flesh is very delicate. 

The Sole. — The English sole is from 10 to 20 inches long and weighs from 1 
to 10 lbs. It is a flat fish like the turbot, and its ^esh is much esteemed. In 
America the name is often applied to the "Hog=ohoker," "Calico" or "Cover- 
slip," a fish which is not used for food. 



78 



FISH 



SPRATS. 

DRIED SPRATS.— Let them stand for 10 minutes covered with 
boiling water; then skin, wipe dry, and broil them over a clear fire. 
Serve them on a warm dish with butter spread over them. Time to 
broil about 8 minutes 

Fresh sprats are also best when broiled; serve with lemon juice 
squeezed on. They are also sometimes fried. 



The sprat 
salted. 



a small herring seldom over 6 inches long. It is often dried or 




THE SQUEXEAGUK OB WEAKFI 



THE SQUETEAGUE. 

This fish is excellent (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted. 
The larger ones can be (4) boiled or (5) steamed, or (6) stufl'ed and 
baked, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those 
methods, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The squeteague is found along the 
Atlantic Coast from Cape Cod to Florida. 
It attains a weight from 1 to 8 or 10 
lbs. The flesh is soft, delicately flavored 
and is highly esteemed. It is often called 
" Weakfish." 

STUEGEON. 

The flesh from a medium sized fish will be found more tender 
and better than that of a very large one. (1) Small ones can be 
skinned, and then stuffed and baked as previously directed for bak- 
ing fish. (2) Steaks cut from sturgeon can be broiled, or (8) small 
cutlets can be cut out and fried, or (4) the flesh can be stewed as 
previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. (5) The 
flesh is sometimes allowed to soak in the marinade given at the be- 
ginning of this chapter before being broiled. 

This fish requires more thor- 
ough cooking than almost any other 
kind. Its flesh is more like meat - 
than that of any other fish. 

The sturgeon is found in both Europe 
and America. It is shark like in form, and 
has strong fins but no scales. The flesh is ^ 
a pale red, very wholesoa:e and agreeable, 
and the flesh of the back tastes like veal, 
while the flank is more like pork. It is 

found in the raarkets from April to Sep- %^ 

tember. 

SUCKERS. 
These should be dressed, and allowed to lie in salted water for 1 




FISH 79 

or 2 hours, or with salt sprinkled on over night, to remove the 
earthy taste. Then they can be either (1) stewed or (2) fried, or 
(3) broiled, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by 
those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

Many people have a prejudice against these fish and will not 
eat them, but if properly cooked they are good, and as a food supply 
they are too much ignored. 

SUNFISH. 

These are usually fried in the frying-pan (saut6d) in salt pork 
fat. They can also be (2) filleted or (3) broiled. Serve with lem- 
on juice squeezed on. Proceed as directed at the beginning of this 
chapter for cooking fish by those methods. 

SWORDFISH. ' 

The flesh of this fish is usually cut into steaks, and either (1) 
broiled or (2) boiled; it can also be (3) stewed or (4) steamed, pro- 
ceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at 
the beginning of this chapter. 

The swordfish ranges from the Atlantic to tlje Mediterranean. It is from 10 to 
15 feet long, and a rapid swimmer. The flesh is rather coarse and oily, but the 
flavor is good. 

THE TAUTOa. 

This fish can be either (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted, 
or (4) boiled or (5) stewed, as directed for cooking fish by those 
methods at the beginning of this chapter. 



The tautog is found along the At- 
lantic coast of the U. S. It appears 
from April to November. Its average 
weight is about 2 lbs., but it sometimes 
weighs 10 to 15 lbs. The flesh is 
white, dry and delicate in flavor, and 
is much esteemed. 

THE TAUTOG. 

The Thoenbaok is a fish very abundant along some parts of the English coast 
and highly esteemed for food. It is not found in the United States. 

The Tunny is a large fish belonging to the same family as the mackerel, and 
the "horse mackerel" is nearly allied to it. It is found in the Mediterranean and 
Black seas as well as in the Atlantic, and although esteemed for food in Europe it 
is seldom or never eaten in America. 

BROOK TROUT. 

In dressing trout the head, tail and fins should not be removed, 
but cut the fish open and scrape out the insides. 

The sportsman's way of cooking perfectly fresh trout is to dress 
them, rub table salt inside, and fry in the frying=pan in smoking hot 




80 * FISH 

salt pork fat. (2) As the fish comes to the city market it is best to 
broil it nicely over a declining fire. Season it with salt, pepijer, a 
little lemon juice and butter, and serve on hot plates. (3) Those 
weighing 1 lb. or more can be stufPed and baked as previously di- 
rected for baking fish. Time to bake 20 to 30 minutes. This 
method is not common, but the fish are good thus prepared. (4) 
When many are received and there is danger that some may spoil 
they can be boiled in water seasoned with lemon juice, whole peppers, 
mace and salt, and then they can be served at luncheon, or prepared 
as previously directed for any cold fish, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

Trout au Bleu. — Take some freshly caught trout; clean and wipe 
them; put them in a sauce=pan, and pour over them a pint of boiling 
vinegar, which immediately turns them blue; then add a pint of 
water to cover the fish; add 4 bay leaves, salt and pepper, an onion 
stuck with cloves, the peel of a lemon, half a head of celery, a carrot, 
and a small bunch of parsley; cover and boil ^ hour. Serve with 
fish sauce, or oil and vinegar. 

The trout is found in most northern countries and is a fresh water fish. It is 
very voraceous and agil, and 20 species are known in America. It is a delicious 
food fish. In the south the name is sometimes erroneously applied to black 
bass, etc. 

TURBOT. 

In choosing turbot the medium sized are best, and those with 
yellowish=white rather than bluish^white flesh. Soak the fish in 
salted water 1 hour to facilitate removing the slime, or, if in a hurry, 
rub with salt and wash in several waters. The fins are not removed 
as the gelatinous parts about them are esteemed a delicacy, but they 
may be trimmed. Red spots on the white side can be removed by 
rubbing them with salt and lemon juice. The skin becomes gelatin- 
ous when cooked, and is highly esteemed, but is rather indigestible. 
Unlike most fish it is better if kept for a day or two. If boiled, a 
gash through the skin down the back will keep the skin on the belly 
from cracking when it begins to swell in cooking. 

It is often boiled. Dress and prepare it as above and then boil 
as previously directed for boiling fish. Time to boil 15 to 20 min- 
utes for small fish, and 20 to 30 for larger ones. Then garnish and 
serve with a good fish sauce. It can also be (2) stuflPed and baked, 
or (3) fried, or (4) filleted, proceeding as directed for cooking fish 
by those methods. 

Cold remnants of the fish are nice prepared by any of the recipes 
given previously for cooking cold fish, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 



FISH 



81 



FRIED TURBOT.— Cut some 
neat pieces, steep tliem in a 
marinade of lemon juice, oil, 
pepper and salt, for 1 or 2 
hours, then dip them in 
batter and fry them a golden 
brown in plenty of hot fat. 



The turbot is found on the 
northern Atlantic coast of the U. 
S. It is a flat fish like the flounder 
and halibut, having the upper side 
dark and the underside light. It 
attains a weight of 2 to 20 lbs. 
The flesh is highly esteemed for 
food. 

The Tenoh is a fish belonging 
to the same family as the carp. It 
is found in Europe and Asia, but not in the U. S. 



remnants of boiled turbot into 




It is highly esteemed for food 

WHITEPISH. 

This fish is splendid broiled. Cut it in two lengthwise, take out 
the backbone, cut each half in tv/o, rub on butter or salad oil, and 
broil nicely over a moderate fire. Time about 10 minutes. Serve 
on a hot dish with butter spread on, salt and pepper added, and 
lemon juice sqeezed over. Garnish to taste. It is also nice (2) 
boiled, or (3) filleted, proceeding as directed for cooking fish by 
those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

Cold Remnants can be prepared by any of the recipes given for 
utilized cold fish, given at the beginning of this chapter. 

The whitefish belongs to the same family as the salmon and trout. It is 
found in the northern parts of America. It sometimes attains a weight of 10 lbs. 
and a length of 2 feet or more. The flesh is a bluish white, turning pure white 
when boiled. It is one of the best of the summer fishes. 

WHITING. 

This fish is excellent fried in a frying-pan with salt pork fat or 
butter. It can also be (2) broiled or (3) filleted as directed for 
cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

The whiting is found along the southern Atlantic coast of the JJ. S. Its 
flesh is sweet and hard, but soon looses its delicate flavor. 

WEAKFISH. 

Same as squeteague, which see. 

WHITEBAIT. 

The whitebait is the name given in England to young herring 
not over (j iiiolies long. They are usually rolled in flour and iiied in 

deo[), fjMu. ]•::!::.;■ hot fit. Tiny aio coneiJ.cred very choice. They ap- 



pear aitor Ap 



ilaud 



sri miner mun 



ths. 



SHELL=FISH. 

NDER the head of shell=fish we include oysters, clams, crabs, 
lobsters, shrimps, prawns, mussels, crayfish, scollops, and 
terrapin or turtle. 

Of the shell=fish, oysters are the most valuable, not only 
for their flavor, but for the ease with which they can be taken by 
invalids, and for the nutritious qualities they possess. Lobsters and 
clams are more difficult of digestion, but are much liked by many 
persons. Lobsters and clams should be perfectly fresh, as many 
cases of illness have been caused by eating them after decomposition 
has begun. All shell=fish should be kept near ice both before and 
after being cooked, if there is a remainder after the meals, except in 
cold and freezing weather. 

CLAMS. 

Clams are good during the months when oysters are not in sea- 
son — those without an " r," May to August. If only eaten when 
fresh, they are wholesome. 

CLAMS AU QRATIN— Chop all the hard part of uncooked 
clams; to a cup of clams add a cup of fine cracker or bread crumbs, 
reserving a little for the top of the mixture before it is placed in the 
oven; add also to the chopped clams a dessertspoon of chopped onion, 
a small teaspoon of marjoram and sage, a little chopped celery, some 
cayenne and salt; moisten all with the broth of the clams; fill but- 
tered shells with the mixture, sprinkle crumbs over the top, with 
some bits of butter, and place in a hot oven for 20 minutes; garnish 
with parsley when served. 

CLAM CHOWDER.— Take 1 quart of clams and chop them fine; 
6 large fresh crackers, 1 onion, sliced, 6 potatoes, cut in dice. In an 
iron pot fry 2 slices of salt pork; take it out soon, leaving the fat in 
the pot; put in 2 or 3 slices of onion, then a layer o| potatoes, then a 
layer of the chopped clams, sprinkle well with salt and pepper; then 
a layer of the onion, then the bits of fried pork, cut into small pieces; 
add a layer of broken crackers; put in the remainder in the same 
way; then add the clam liquor, and enough water to more than cover 
them. Cook 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are done; add 2 cups 
hot milk just before serving. Sufficient for 8 persons. 



SHELL^FISH 83 

ESCALLOPED CLAMS — Scald the clams, remove the hard part 
and chop the rest. Make a soup of the liquor, with enough water 
added to make it fresh enough; thicken it and make suflSiciently rich 
with butter. Butter a scalloped dish, strew the bottom with bread or 
cracker crumbs, moisten them with the soup, then spread a layer of 
clams seasoned with pepper, and continue alternately till the dish is 
full, the last layer being crumbs moistened with soup. Bake ^ hour, 
and serve at once. 

ROAST CLAMS. — Scrub the shells, wash well, drain, and put 
them in a dripping-pan. Set them in a hot oven and as soon as 
the shells open serve them on the half shell, or in the whole shell, 
with salt, pepper, and slices of lemon. Serve toasted brown bread 
with them. Time to roast about 10 or 12 minutes. 

STEWED CLAMS — Take 2 cups milk, add 1 teaspoon butter 
and a little white pepper and bring to a boil. Then add the clams, 
freshly opened, bring them to a boil, let simmer 4 or 5 minutes and 
serve. They will be tough and indigestible if boiled long. 

CLAMS ON TOAST.— Take the clams out of the shell and cut 
their heads ofp; boil them in their own liquor; skim it well, and add 
as much water or milk as there is liquor; thicken with flour or pow- 
dered rice to the consistency of cream ; add butter, and pepper and 
salt to taste. Have some thin slices of buttered toast prepared, pour 
on enough of the liquor to soften the toast and lay 3 or 4 clams on 
each slice. Serve at once, on hot plates. Garnish with parsley. A 
teacup of hot water will "start the steam" for | peck of clams; the 
amount of liquor which each shell contains will surprise the novice. 
As few like the liquor full strength, it is better to dilute it one- 
half as above directed, 

CKABS. 

A crab of the medium size is the best, and the crab, like the 
lobster, should be judged by its weight. It should be heavy for 
its size, for if light, it is watery. They are called •' soft shell crabs ' 
when the new shell is forming, as they shed their shell annually. 
They are a similar shell=fish to lobster, and are prepared in the same 
ways for the table, 

BOILED HARD SHELL CRABS — Put them into slightly salt- 
ed boiling water, and boil 12 to 15 minutes. Drain, season with 
pepper and salt, and with catsup or lemon juice, 

BROWNED CRABS.-Take the great shell, clean and butter ii; 
mince all the lish, shred some parsley, umshvoonis, trufties, and a 



84 SHELL FISH 

small onion. Brown these in a sauce-pan with a very little butter; 
put in the minced crab with the inside bruised, and some cayenne 
pepper and salt; stir this about, shake in some flour, and add a little 
coral. Let this simmer up, fill up the shell, strew over crumbs of 
bread with a small piece of butter; brown in a hot oven. 

DEVILED CRABS.— Boil the crabs, take out the meat and chop 
it fine; then add | as much bread crumbs, cream or a cream sauce, 
salt, pepper, cayenne, mustard and lemon juice. Clean the shells, 
fill them with the mixture, dust them with cracker crumbs, and bake 
them brown in a quick oven. Deviled crabs should always be sea- 
soned highly. 

ESCALLOPED CRABS.— Take the meat of boiled crabs, chop it 
fine; add cream or cream sauce, chopped hard=boiled egg, pepper 
and salt to season, and a little lemon juice. Clean the shells, put in 
the mixture, dust on bread crumbs, and bake brown in a quick oven. 

FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS.— Kemove the sand bags, etc., 
wash and dry them ; sprinkle on pepper and salt, roll them in flour, 
then in egg, then in bread or cracker crumbs, and fry in hot fat. 

KROMESKIES OF CRABS — Boil for 40 minutes, 1 or more 
crabs; when cool, pick them out in as large pieces as possible. 
Mash fine the hard-boiled yolks of 4 eggs, add them to the crabs, 
with 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 whole egg well beaten, and a 
palatable seasoning of salt and cayenne. Mix 
carefully, and form into tiny rolls; wrap each in a 
very thin slice of bacon, dip it in fritter batter, 
and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve on a napkin; 
garnish with cress. 

The flesh belonging to the claws of the crab Is far less 
likely to disagree with the stomach than the soft part con- 
tained within the shell. Crabs are diflScult of digestion, and so not suitable for 
invalids or dyspeptics. 

CKAY^FISH, PKAWNS AND SHRIMPS. 

These are much like lobsters, only smaller, and they are to be 
found in x)rovision stores in hermetically sealed cans, already cooked, 
and the meats picked from the shells. They are used whole and 
boiled for garnishing boiled fowls and all kinds of boiled fish. They 
are boiled in the same manner as lobsters, but for a much shorter 
time, from 5 to 15 minutes being the rule. After boiling, they may 
be broken in pieces, shells and all together, and form a foundation 
for a delicious soup, with any additions preferred. 




SHELL^FISH 



85 



These shell-fish make ornamental side dishes, served whole and 
garnished with parsley and nasturtiums. 

BUTTERED SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS.— Pick 1 pint of shrimps 
or prawns, and put them in a stew-pan with f pint of bouillon; add a 
thickening of butter and flour; season to taste with salt, cayenne and 
nutmeg, and simmer gently for 8 minutes. Serve on a dish gar- 
nished wnth fried bread or toasted sippets. Cream sauce may be 
substituted for the gravy. 

CURRIED CRAY=FISH, PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS.— For a 

can of these shelhfish, melt a small cup of butter in a pan; add a 
saltspoon of curry=powder, a sour apple chopped finely, the juice of a 
lemon, and ^ pint of hot water; a small onion may be added if liked. 
When all the ingredients are well scalded together, add a tablespoon 
of corn-starch wet with a little water, and stir until it thickens; add 
the can of shellfish to the curry sauce. Let it get quite hot — do not 
boil — then serve. 

POTTED CRAY=FISH, PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS — Pick the 
meat from 50 cray*fish and pound it to a j)aste in a mortar; season 
with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and a piece of butter the size of an 
egg. The butter must be slightly softened, but not melted, and the 
ingredients should be thoroughly mixed. Put it in small earthen 
pots, pack tightly, and 
cover with salad oil; 
then .cover in such a 
way as to entirely ex- 
clude the air. The 
earthen pot can be had 
of apothecaries, with the 
covers, the potted cray= 
fish should be kept in a 
cool, dry, dark place. 

Prawns and shrimps may be potted in 
the same manner. 

SHBIMP. 

Shrimps and jjrawns, although not easy of 
digestion nor adapted to a weak stomach, are less likely to disagree than crabs or 
lobsters. 

LOBSTERS. 

The largest lobsters are not as good as those of a medium size, 
and those full of eggs are inferior. Lobsters should be put in cold 
water to boil, for they are dead as soon as the water becomes warm, 
and suffer less than when plunged into boiling water; they are done 




86 SHELL FISH 

when they have boiled about 20 minutes. Lobsters are not poison- 
ous if perfectly fresh; there is no poison "lady"' in the lobster. The 
stomach near the head is, of course, taken out, and also the " string '' 
or intestine which goes through the lobster; all the rest is edible. 
The green tomally or liver can be eaten, and do not waste the sweet 
meat between the bones of the body. Lobsters that were alive when 
put into the water to boil, will have the tail curled up, while one that 
was dead will have the tail extended. Long or slow cooking will 
toughen lobsters and make them indigestible. Brushing the large 
shells on the outside with olive oil, is thought to preserve the bright 
red color. Cayenne pepper, mustard, vinegar or lemon juice, should 
be eaten with lobsters; they are digested with difficulty. 

To kill a lobster quickly and easily, cut the si)inal cord by pushing a 
long, narroW'bladed knife into the tail, slanting the blade downward, 
and inserting it at the third joint, counting from the end. 

Lobster Coral can be kept a long time if put in a jar or bottle and 
covered with vinegar. To use, soak about an hour in water, and 
then in milk for the same time; wipe dry, and use like fresh coral. 
During the season it is well to preserve surplus coral in this way, for 
coloring soups, etc. 

LOBSTERS AU QRATIN — Split the tail and body of the lob- 
ster, removing the fish and taking care not to break the shells; mince 
the fish, and put all into a stew-pan with a little good stock, and pep- 
per and salt; mix it well, fill the shells with the mixture, cover them 
well with bread crumbs, brush over with clarified butter, and brown 
it in a hot oven. 

BROILED LOBSTER.— After being boiled, a lobster may be 
broiled as follows: Take the claws off and crack them, split the body 
and tail in two, season well with pepper, salt, and cayenne, and broil. 
Serve with plain butter, or with a little heated catsui^, dashed with 
Worcestershire sauce. 

BUTTERED LOBSTER — A buttered lobster should be first 
boiled and broken up. Take out all the meat, cut it small and put it 
in a stew=pan with plenty of butter, a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, 
and stir till it is hot. If a handsome dish of 2 or 3 lobsters be de- 
sired, the tails should be halved and broiled, and put round the dish 
with the minced lobster in the middle. 

LOBSTER CANAPES— For this, there must be the meat of a 
medium sized lobster, cut in small pieces, and mingled with the 
green fat; pour over it a very little salad oil and vinegar, just enough 



SHELL FISH 87 

to moisten it well, and let it stand 10 or 15 minutes. Cut thin slices 
of bread for the croutons, trim off the crust to make them square, or 
cut them with fancy^shaped cutters, and fry them a delicate brown, 
on a griddle well buttered; spread the croutons on a platter gar- 
nished with parsley; on the croutons spread the lobster, and on the 
lobster may be placed thin slices of lemon, or sprinkle them well 
with capers. 

LOBSTER CREAMED. — Chop finely a medium=sized lobster and 
pour over it a pint of cream; put in a cup of bread crumbs, and 3 
eggs well beaten, with a little salt and pepper; butter a mold, fill in 
the mixture, invert a plate over the top, and steam for an hour. 
Serve with any nice fish sauce. 

LOBSTER CURRY.— Put | cup of butter in a frying-pan, and 
when melted, stir into it 2 tablespoons of flour and 1 heaping salt- 
spoon of curry powder; stir constantly until it is brown; then gradu- 
ally add ^ pint of hot water, stirring rapidly until it thickens; season 
with salt to taste. Chop coarsely the meat and fat of a medium^sized 
lobster, and add it to the curry sauce; simmer 5 or 6 minutes, or un- 
til it is quite hot; if onion is liked, rub the hot platter with a raw on- 
ion; place on the platter slices of nicely- toasted bread, and pour the 
curried lobster over the toast. Serve hot. 

DEVILED LOBSTER.— Cut lobster fine, and season it highly 
with salt, cayenne, mustard, chopped parsley, onion juice, if desired, 
and some pungent sauce, like Worcestershire; place the mixture in 
the lobster shell, sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, with bits of 
butter, and bake till brown on top. Eat hot or cold. 

LOBSTER PATTIES — Chop a medium=sized lobster very finely, 
and mix with it the juice of a lemon, a little salt, and white pepper, 
and salad oil enough to moisten it, if not moist enough; line patty^ 
pans with puff paste and put into each a small piece of bread; put on 
a top crust of paste, brush over with beaten egg, and bake; when 
done, take off the top crust, remove the bread, fill the patties with 
minced lobster (after stirring it over the fire with the seasoning 
for 2 or 3 minutes) ; then replace the top crusts. 

STEWED LOBSTER.— Cut the lobster small and put it in a 

stew=^pan, and add just a little water, milk or cream, the latter being 
best, although the first will answer; let it boil up, add a teaspoon of 
butter, and pepper and salt to season, and serve hot, either on toast 
or plain. 



88 SHELL FISH 

The flesh found in the claws of the lobster is more delicate and digestible than 
that found in the tail, but all lobstev meat is difficult of digestion and not suited to 
invalids or dyspeptics. 

MUSSELS. 

These cheap and excellent shellfish are sometimes called the 
poor man's oyster. They are sometimes eaten raw, but it is better to 
cook them. They can be fried, broiled, stewed, or pickled, being us- 
ually prepared for the market by pickling. The " moss," or byssus, 
which serves to attach them to rocks, etc., is usually removed, be- 
ing considered poisonous, although there is no proof of that. Still, 
it is better to remove it after being boiled and before serving them. 

BOILED MUSSELS — Clean the shells and put them in a kettle 
vv'ith water slightly salted and containing a little vinegar; heat until 
the shells open, and they will be done. Remove them from the 
shells, trim off the "moss," strain the liquor, add a little flour, the 
yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, pour over the mussels and serve at once. Choi?- 
ped parsley may be added if desired. 

The mussel more often exerts a deleterious effect than any other shell=fish. It 
often has a poisonous effect, the reason for which is not clearly understood. 

OYSTEES. 

Oysters are only good during the months containing an "r" 
(that is, from September to April) as their multiplying season is 
during the warm weather, and at that time they are soft and tasteless. 
They are not easily kept in warm weather, being a fish that quickly 
spoils. Canned oysters can be used in hot weather if liked, for they 
are only canned in their season. In cooking oysters, great care 
should be taken that they may not be cooked too long, as that pro- 
cess hardens them. They are easily digested and are commonly 
given to invalids, although cooking renders them a little less digesti- 
ble; if too much cooked, they are tough and leathery. Always buy 
the "solid" oysters, or those containing very little juice, as they are 
sometimes watered and it is more economical to water them yourself 
The smallest oysters are used for stews and escallops, and are sold by 
measure, as are the "straits," that is, the large and small mixed. 
The largest oysters are usually sold by the dozen for broiling and 
frying; they are called "counts," and "selects." 

Never salt oysters until just before serving, as cooking them 
with salt hardens them. They should be served at once after being 
cooked. Be sure that all bits of shell are removed before cooking. 
Do not open them until just before using if wanted raw; if to be 
cooked, do not keep them long after being opened. As the crabs are 
usually regarded as a delicacy, save any which are found among the 



SHELL^FISH 89 

oysters. As oysters in cooking produce liquor enough of tlieir own, 
there is less need of saving their liquor. 

BROILED OYSTERS.— Take as many large oysters as are 
needed, dry them in a towel, rub butter on the bars of a wire grid- 
iron, brush a little over the oysters, and broil over a clear jBre. If 
the wires of the gridiron are close together, smaller ones can be 
broiled. Arrange them on toast, season and serve. Or they can be 
dipped in melted butter, then rolled in crumbs which are seasoned 
with pepper and salt, and broiled until the juice flows; this saves the 
juice more and many people prefer it. 

CREAMED OYSTERS.— Cook 3 tablespoons of flour and 2 table- 
spoons of butter together until they bubble; add 1 cup of milk and 1 
cup of oyster liquor, and stir until you have a thick sauce; into this 
drop 1 quart of oysters freed from their liquor. Have ready an egg 
beaten light in a cup, mix some of the hot sauce with it, turn all 
back into the saucepan, stir 1 minute (not longer) and take from the 
fire. Season with salt, pepper and the juice of half a lemon. Serve 
on toast, or put the creamed oysters into buttered scallop=shells; 
sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and brown in a quick oven. 
Eat hot. 

DEVILED OYSTERS — Drain the oysters and dry in a clean 
towel; then put them in a dish, and cover with a mixture of melted 
butter and vinegar or lemon juice, adding a little pepper sauce or 
cayenne pepper if desired; let them soak 5 or 10 minutes and take 
them out; dip them in fine cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, and 
again in crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

ESCALLOPED OYSTERS.— Koll 1 quart of crackers fine with 
the rolling pin. Grease the baking dish as you would before baking a 
cake in it. Put a layer of cracker crumbs in the dish; drain the liq- 
uor from the oysters and add twice the quantity of milk to it; mois- 
ten the crumbs with some of this, then put in a layer of oysters with 
a seasoning of salt, x^epper and bits of butter. Put in the layers of 
crumbs alternately with the oysters in this way until all are in, with 
a layer of crumbs and bits of butter on top. Beat 1 egg and add to 
it the remainder of the milk and oyster liquor, or if none remains, 
add a little milk to the egg and pour it over all. Put a cover over 
it and bake -^ hour; then remove the cover and bake ^ hour longer 

FRIED OYSTERS — Take large sized oysters, parboil slightly, 
drain, sprinkle with pepper and salt and cool 20 minutes. Then 
roll each one separately in bread crumbs, then in beaten eggs and 



90 V SHELLFISH 

milk mixed, then again season, and again roll in bread crumbs. Put 
into smoking hot fat and fry 1 minute; take out, lay on paper to ab- 
sorb surplus grease, garnish and serve. 

They can also be fried in the frying-pan. Prepare as above, roll 
in cracker crumbs only, and fry on each side until brown, using but- 
ter for the fat. 

FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS — Put about 75 oysters on the fire in 
their liquor and an equal quantity of chicken broth ; add the juice of 
1 lemon, and when all comes to a boil, remove from the fire; in an- 
other steW'pan put a tablespoon of butter, 1^ tablespoons of flour; 
stir them together carefully so as not to color; add, slowly, the liquor 
and oysters from the other stew-pan, then the beaten yolks of 4 
eggs, 1 saltspoon of white pepper and salt mixed, 1 tablespoon of 
chopioed parsley; let the mixture become thoroughly hot, but do not 
boil; serve as soon as x)ossible. 

OYSTER FRITTERS.— Have ready a batter made as follows: 
Dissolve 1 heaping tablespoon of butter 'n 4 tablespoons of water or 
oyster liquor, and stir to this 1-| tablespoons of sifted flour; mix well 
over the fire. Take it off and mix in, one after the other, 3 eggs, and 
a little salt. Beard and scald the oysters, dip each into the batter, 
fry lightly in smoking hot fat, and serve. 

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL Do not open them until 

just before they are served, and then leave each one in half the shell. 
Allow about h doz. large oysters for each guest. Put them on a din- 
ner plate, and in the center of the dish put 1 or 2 slices of lemon cut 
thin. 

OYSTERS AND MACARONI — Take some macaroni, boil until 
soft, put a layer into a baking dish, then put in a layer of oysters; 
season with salt, pepper and butter, and so on with alternate layers 
of macaroni and oysters, until the dish is full. Then bake till 
brown, and serve. 

OYSTER OMELET.— Beat the yolks and whites of 6 eggs separ- 
ately; to the yolks add ^ cup of rich milk or thin cream, a little salt, 
and 12 oysters, chopped fine. Put butter in your frying=pan, as for 
an ordinary omelet, and allow it to heat while you are mixing the 
whites of the eggs with the rest of the ingredients. Mix the whole 
lightly and turn into the pan. Shake to prevent burning, and as 
soon as the omelet is set, or begins to be firm, turn one half over the 
other half quickly, slip on to a hot platter and serve at once. Good, 
but not as economical as many dishes. 



SHELL^FISH 91 

PANNED OYSTERS — Kemove the crust from thin slices of 
stale bread, toast it, cut it in pieces, and fit them into muflSn or 
patty=pan8; moisten with oyster liquor; put oysters on the toast, 
sprinkle with pepper, and put a bit of butter on each one; cover with 
a dripping-pan, or any convenient cover to prevent the escape of 
steam, and cook in a quick oven; they will be done when the oysters 
curl (in 6 or 8 minutes). Then sprinkle with salt, and serve hot. 

OYSTER PATTIES — Make a rich puff paste and bake it in 
earthen sauce=dishes. Wash nice fresh oysters in warm, salted 
water; drain and put in a sauce=pan, with a piece of butter, a little 
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if liked. Cook them only until they are 
plump, stirring with a silver fork while plumping; when cold, fill the 
crusts and send to the table. If liked hot, the crusts can be filled, 
before baking, with the plumped oysters, and sent from the oven to 
the table. 

OYSTER PIE — Line a deep pie-dish with puff paste; dredge 
with flour; pour in 1 pint of oysters, season with butter, salt, pepper, 
and sprinkle a little flour over the oysters; pour on some oyster liquor 
and cover with a crust, with a hole in the top for steam to escape. 
Bake 30 minutes. 

PICKLED OYSTERS.— Put 100 oysters in a sauce^pan, and let 
them simmer gently in their own liquor for about 10 minutes; take 
them out one by one, put in jars, and when cold, cover with a pickle 
made as follows: Measure the oyster liquor and add to it the same 
amount of vinegar, and for each cup of vinegar, add 1 blade of 
pounded mace, 12 cloves, and a strip of lemon peel; boil 5 minutes, 
and when cold, pour it over the oysters and cover closely. 

PIGS IN BLANKETS. — Choose large oysters, season with pep- 
per and salt; wrap each one in a slice of bacon cut very thin, and 
fasten with a wooden toothpick. Cook in a hot frying=pan just long 
enough to crisp the bacon. Have small pieces of toast ready, put 
each "pig" on one, without removing the skewer; serve at once. 

RAW OYSTERS — In cold weather these are much better to lie 
a short time in warm salted water; this takes the chill from the juice 
of the oyster, and they are more agreeable than when very cold, as 
they will be in winter. They may be eaten with just salt, pepper, 
and vinegar, but some persons like them served with one of the ap- 
petizing sauces. Nice bread and butter sandwiches are good with 
raw oysters. 

At large dinners where raw oysters are served, they are some- 



92 SHELLFISH 

times brought to each individual place before the company is seated. 
It is a pleasant and homelike way for the host to serve them from a 
platter before him, on small dessert^plates. Drain the oysters well, 
arrange them on a platter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and slice 
lemon over them. Thin slices of buttered brown bread may be 
served with the oysters. Let them stand in the ice chest ^ hour 
before serving. 

STEAMED OYSTERS — Drain them, lay on a plate and set in 
the steamer, and steam for about 10 minutes till they look white and 
plump. Use the liquid for a dressing; beat it, mix with an equal 
quantity of cream, and thicken it with a little corn=starch. 

OYSTER STEW — Put the liquor from 1 pint of oysters with 1 
cup of sweet milk in a kettle; let it just boil, add the oysters and let 
it boil up once; then season with jDepper, salt, and butter, with a few 
crackers toasted and broken in jjieces. Never salt oysters until just 
before removing from the fire, or they will shrivel and harden. 

SMOTHERED OYSTERS — Put a piece of butter the size of an 
egg into a sauce^pan, with a little salt, white pepper and cayenne. 
Have ready a pint of oysters, which have been washed in warm water 
slightly salted, and thoroughly drained and dried on a napkin; when 
the butter is hot, put in the oysters and cook them until they are 
plump (2 or 3 minutes); stir them carefully all the time with a silver 
fork to prevent them from sticking to the sauce^pan. Serve on 
toasted crackers. 

OYSTER TOAST — Chop fine 1^ dozen good large oysters, and 
season with pepper, salt, and a dash of nutmeg. Beat together ^ cup 
of cream and yolks of 2 eggs; heat the oysters till they simmer, stir 
in the egg and cream, and pour it on prepared slices of buttered 
toast. 

OYSTERS UNSHELLED— Take oysters in the shell; wash and 
scrub the shell till perfectly clean; then, to keep in the juice, set 
them with the round shell down. Either steam them in the steamer 
10 to 20 minutes, or roast them over hot coals on a gridiron, or put 
them in the dripping-pan on top of the stove, or in the hot oven. 
They will be done when the shells open. Then take ofip the flat top 
shell, and season each one with a little butter, salt, pepper, and lem- 
on juice. Serve hot. This method retains the natural flavor of the 
oyster better than any other. 

Oysters are wholesome and nutritious, but are more digestible when raw than 
when cooked, as cooking usually hardens and toughens them. 




SHELLFISH 93 

SCALLOPS. 

This fish somewhat resembles the oyster in 
appearance and the crab in taste. It is com- 
'paratively little known, although when fresh 
and well cooked it is very delicious. It is found 
in all parts of the world, and in ancient times 
the shells were used extensively in cookery, giv- . . 

ing us our prefix of "scalloped." They are in 1;^!^::^!^^ 

season in fall and winter. The muscle by which the scallop. 

it opens and closes its shell is the only part eaten. They can be 
stewed like oysters, or fry them, which is a better way. 

FRIED SCALLOPS.— Kinse them in cold water slightly salted, 
and dry in a napkin; dip them in cracker dust seasoned with pepper 
and salt, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. They 
are sometimes dredged with flour and fried in a frying-pan with pork 
fat, and some people prefer them that way. 

TEKRAPIN OR TURTLE. 

To dress terrapin, cut off the head and bleed thoroughly, then 
soak in cold water for an hour. Next boil 10 or 15 minutes, take it 
out into cold water and with a coarse cloth rub off all the black skin. 
Have another water heating in the kettle, and when the turtle is 
cleaned, boil until the shell loosens; the time will vary from ^ hour 
to 2 hours, according to the age of the terrapin. When done, put in 
cold water again, take off the under shell and carefully take out the 
gall-sack and the liver and sand bag, and throw away the head. 

Be careful not to break the galLsack, or the gall will escape and 
spoil the whole dish. Save the juice that runs from the meat, open- 
ing it over a bowl for that purpose. The eggs and meat are served 
in various ways. If made into a soup or stew, the eggs are put in 
and served with it; if served in other ways, the eggs are used with 
other decorations, as a garnish. In whatever way served, the meat 
must be cut finely. 

ESCALLOPED TERRAPIN.— Put a cup of butter in a sauce^pan, 
melt, and stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; then pour on a pint of hot 
water, stirring rapidly, to make a smooth gravy; pound the terrapin 
eggs to a paste and add with salt, pepper, and a trifle of nutmeg to 
taste; then strain. For a quart of finely cut terrapin, have a quart 
of bread crumbs made fine; put a layer of terrapin on the bottom of a 
pudding dish, then a layer of crumbs, then of sauce, and so fill the 
dish, having a layer of crumbs on the top. Add sweet milk enough 



94 SHELL^FISH 

to show through the top layer of crumbs if it is not sufficiently moist; 
put on a few bits of butter, and bake 20 minutes in a hot oven. 
Serve with slices of lemon. 

TERRAPIN STEW — Make a sauce as for escalloped terrapin; 
put in the meat, cut finely, and let it get hot, but do not let it boil 
longer than a minute. Add lemon juice to the stew if liked. Serve 
with croutons or toasted crackers. 



■k 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHBLL=FISH 
AND MEATS. 

"T T is of much importance that the cook should know how to make 
((rj ^ good sauce for her meats, etc. A great deal of the elegance 
J^ of cooking depends upon having the accompaniments of each 
dish appropriate and well adapted to it. The most homely fare 
may be made relishing, and the most excellent improved, by a well 
made sauce. It may safely be asserted that a first rate sauce maker is 
also a good cook. Sauces are necessary in the most modest kitchen, 
and they are as easily made rightly as wrongly, if one only knows 
how, so that this branch of the art of cookery deserves very careful 
attention. A busy and economical house^wife will sometimes say she 
has no time or money for sauces, when as a matter of fact she cannot 
afford to do without them, for, by using flavorings is the best way to 
induce the system to take plain food with relish; and when we say 
this, we are not unmindful of the old saying that " hunger is the best 
sauce." Animals certainly would hardly be considered over particu- 
lar, and yet they have been known to starve in the experimenter's 
hand rather than eat a nutritious food from which the flavor had 
been extracted and of which they had become tired. We are con- 
vinced that poor people especially are too much inclined to neg- 
lect the very important matter of flavorings and relishes for their 
food. 

The Utensils. — To make sauces successfully, proper utensils should 
be provided. The most essential are wooden spoons and round bot- 
tomed sauce^pans. It is very difiicult to prevent lumps in a sauce if 
it has to be made with a pointed spoon and a flat bottomed pan. All 
utensils must, of course, be scrupulously clean. Sauces are best 
cooked in a double boiler to guard against scorching them in the 
least, which should be carefully avoided. 

Herbs, etc — Do not be appalled at the number of ingredients, like 
thyme, mace, parsley, etc., called for in a recijDe. A few cents will 
buy enough of all these things to last for a year, and the good cook 
aims to keep a small sujpply of all flavoring herbs on hand; but if 
you do not have them ail, very good results may be produced with 
less. 

Thickening. — The most common thickening for sauce is Jloiir. 
The quantity generally used is one ounce, or a heaping tablespoon, to 

95 



90 SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 

a pint of liquid; though 2 or 3 times that is needed to make a sauce 
thick enough to adhere to \^hat it is poured over. Corivstarch or ar- 
row-rooi is often used instead of flour, and makes a smooth and more 
delicate sauce. All sauces containing flour or any other form of 
starch for thickening, must hoU, and must' be stirred uniil it boils, 
or the starch will settle to the bottom and make lumps, instead of 
thickening the whole. Although the starch swells, and thickens the 
liquid even before the boiling point is reached, even in this pulver- 
ized form the starch needs to cook ten minutes at least, to he made 
digestible; it should be remembered that all starch needs at least 10 
to 20 minutes cooking. 

There is some difPerence in the quality of flour and it does not 
thicken the same at one time as another. Dry flour must never be 
mixed with hot liquid unless it is intended to form lumps; but it 
must flrst be stirred to a smooth jDaste with cold liquid, and then the 
hot poured over it, or it must be mixed with a little melted fat over 
the fire when hot, or cold liquid can be gradually added. As a gen- 
eral rule, the following is the best way to mix all flour sauces: Melt 
the fat, stir in the flour, and when they are well mixed, and there are 
no lumps, add liquid gradually, on or off the fire, stirring continu- 
ously till all boils. Sometimes the flour is cooked in the fat until it 
takes a brown color, more or less dark. Sauces thus made have a 
fine flavor, and are smooth and free from grease. 

All the different kinds of brown sauces are made by using brown 
stock, browning the butter, and using various seasoning materials. 
As flour, when cooked into brown roux does not thicken quite as 
much as when uncooked, rather more is needed. 

Eggs are also used to thicken sauces, sometimes the yolk only, 
sometimes both yolk and white, and both with and without the addi- 
tion of flour. They must be M^ell stirred and never allowed to heat 
to boiling, as the yolk then hardens, and will not mix with the sauce: 
but they must be heated enough to slightly coagulate the albumen, 
or the sauce does not thicken. To pour boiling water very gradually 
over the eggs in a basin is often sufficient. The safest way to cook 
an egg sauce is in a basin or pitcher standing in a pan of boiling 
water, or in a hcmi marie made on purpose; but an ordinary sauce- 
pan can be used if care is exercised. On the least appearance of 
" curdling," the sauce should be lifted from the fire, poured into a 
, cold basin, and stirred. 
'^j^M\^ v\-. Coloring for Sauces — It may be said that sauces should as a rule 
be of some decided color. In order to get these decided colors, ar- 
tificial coloring matter is often used. Brown is the most common 



SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 9T 

and the most harmless, for it is produced by roasted flour, sugar or 
vegetables, which add to the flavor as well as appearance, if not 
carried to the point of burning. Onion skins contain much col- 
oring of a harmless kind. Home-made brown roux is to be preferred 
to that which is bought, and is much cheaper. Milk, cream, or 
white stock are used in white sauces. Lobster spawn gives a bril- 
liant scarlet. Spinach green is always harmless, and is the only 
green suitable for kitchen use, as many greens contain arsenic. 
Other harmless colors are given in our article on frosting for cakes. 

Good fresh butter only should be used for flrst rate sauces. In- 
ferior or rancid butter should never be used; it is not as good as 
fresh beef dripping or fat. Where economy is studied, it is better 
to use less butter and have that good, than to buy a large quantity 
of cheap cooking butter. 

Meat should always be sufficiently fat to " cook itself," that is 
it should furnish enough oil for the gravy — if it does not, it is poor 
meat. Good salad oil is much used in salads, and dishes made of 
dry cooked meats, as the gravy is mostly served with the hot meat 
at dinner. 

Serve hot. — Gravies and sauces should be sent to the table very 
hot. Being made in small quantities, they are more liable to cool 
quickly than if they were in a larger body. If made before the mo- 
ment of serving, they should be kept in a sauce-pan of boiling water ; 
a fish kettle makes a good improvised hain marie. 

Roux (pronounced Roo). — Brown Roux, for thickening gravies 
and sauces, is made by melting butter in a stew-pan and adding an 
equal quantity of flour. Stir constantly while it is browning, so that 
it will not burn; when of a nice yellowish brown, put it in jars, cover 
tightly, and keep it in a dry dark place. It is then ready to use at 
any time by taking 1 or 2 heaping spoonfuls, according to the quan- 
tity of soup, and stirring it in while the soup is boiling, and it will 
instantly thicken. This is the Brown Roux used by foreign cooks. 

The White Roux is made in the same manner, but only cooked 
together for a few minutes without browning. Many prefer the bits 
of butter rolled in flour, and used as occasion requires ; then there is 
no danger of rancidity or waste, as there might be if a quantity of 
roux was prepared and it was not needed for use, as expected. 

Condiments. — These are used to give a relish to food and gratify the taste. 
The principal condiments are salt, vinegar, oil, butter, herbs, spices, ginger, pep- 
per and mustard. Some of these, like mustard, are food and condiment combined. 
When taken in moderation they are conducive to health, but used to excess, they 
are highly injurious. 

It is diflBcult to draw a very distinct line between spices and condiments, but 
7 



98 



SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 



spices are generally added to articles of food containing sugar, while condimenta 
are eaten with meat, and generally with any foods which contain common salt. 
Cloves and allspice are, however, eaten with meat, and cinnamon, nutmeg and 
mace with sweet foods. Spices can be used in moderation, but if used in eicess, 
they irritate the mucous membrane and are harmful, often causing dyspepsia. 



SAUCES 



ASPIC JELLY — Take a tablespoon of good extract of meat 
add 2 quarts of water, a small onion cut finely, or a bit of garlic, a 
pinch of celery-seed, a sprig of thyme, a carrot cut finely, with the 
rind of a lemon, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Let all boil 
slowly together until the vegetables are soft. Have 2 large table- 
spoons of gelatine soaking in cold water enough to cover, and add 
when the vegetables are done. Stir in the softened gelatine until it 
is dissolved, and add the juice of the lemon, with the whites of 2 
eggs slightly beaten; now let come to a boil, then set back on the 
range for 15 minutes. Strain through a jelly^bag until clear, pour 
into a mould and place on ice. Aspic jelly is used as a garnish for 
various meat dishes, A plain lemon jelly made with gelatine, an- 
swers every purpose for decorations, instead of this elaborate jelly. 

BOKDEAUX SAUCE. 



2 quarts of cider vinegar. 

2 quarts finely chopped green 

tomatoes. 
2 quarts finely chopped cabbage 
1 ounce of turmeric. 
1 teaspoon celery seed. 



1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

1 teaspoon ground cloves. 

1 heaping teaspoon of salt. 

1 teaspoon of ground mustard. 

1 teaspoon of ground black pepper. 

1 heaping teaspoon of sugar. 
Mix all together and cook until soft, stirring often to prevent 
sticking to the sauce=pan. Cork tightly in wide mouthed bottles, 
and keep in a dry, cool place. A good meat sauce. 

Cloves are the dried flower buds of the clove tree, an 
evergreen tree belonging to the myrtle order. Our supplies 
come principally from Zanzibar and the West Indies. They 
contain a considerable quantity of a pungent oil which is 
aromatic and stimulant. 

BREAD SAUCE — Dry white bread or rolls 
thoroughly in the oven, but do not brown them; 
then roll on the moulding board, put it in the fine 
colander, and sift through the finer crumbs. Put 
the fine crumbs in a sauce=pan, and for each 
cup, add 2 cups stock or water, a slice of onion, 
with pepper and salt; simmer 20 minutes. In 
the meantime put a piece of butter the size of an egg in the small 




THE CLOVE. 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 99 

frying=pan, and when melted add the coarser crumbs of bread; stir 
continually until they are a nice golden brown. Take the onion 
from the sauce, add the browned bread crumbs, and serve in a sauce= 
boat. This sauce can be made with fresh sweet milk instead of 
stock, and is served with game. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE. — Take 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, and 
add 1 tablespoon of anchovy paste or extract. 

BECHAMEL OR WHITE SAUCE— Put | a cup of butter in a 
sauce-pan and let it soften; mix with it 2 tablespoons of flour, then 
add 1 pint of milk; set the sauce^pan in a larger one containing hot 
water, stir constantly until it thickens, and let it scald; rub out the 
lumps, and season with pepper and salt. This can be used as a 
foundation for many other sauces. A few bits of celery, sprigs of 
parsley and a little nutmeg can be added, with a sliced onion, if 
desired, for flavor; scald 15 minutes, strain through cloth to 
remove onion, etc., and send to the table. It is often made with ^ 
milk and ^ stock. 

BROWN SAUCE. — Fry 1 tablespoon of chopped onion in 1 
tablespoon of butter; let this brown, but not burn, and then add 1 
heaping tablespoon of flour; stir thoroughly and then add (a little at 
a time) 1 cup of hot stock, stirring rapidly until it is smooth and 
thick. Season to taste with pepper and salt, let it simmer 5 min- 
utes; remove the onion by straining the sauce. Leave out the onion 
if its flavor is not liked. Color with caramel. This will serve as the 
foundation for many sauces by using various flavoring materials. 

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE.— Put 2 tablespoons of butter into a 
sauce^pan and melt it, but do not let it turn brown; then add 1 
tablespoon of flour and mix well; then add (a little at a time) 1 cup 
of hot water, or white stock if you have it, stirring it thoroughly. 
When smooth, add 1 large tablespoon of butter, cut in pieces, and stir 
it in thoroughly. Add pep]per and salt to season, and strain it if not 
perfectly smooth. This can be used as the foundation for many other 
sauces. A few drops of lemon juice or vinegar can be added by 
those who want it acid, and a little finely cut parsley can be added 
also if desired. 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter — Melt a teacup of butter in a sauce^panj 
stir into it a tablespoon of corn-starch, then a pint of hot water; stir 
well so that it will be smooth. Add the strained juice of a lemon, 
a saltspoon of cayenne; salt to taste and add 2 large spoons of 
chopped parsley. It is served with meat or boiled fish. 

Butter, Montpelier. — Pick the leaves from water cress, which must 
be green and fresh, chop thorn finely, dry them in a cloth and 

. L.ct 0. 



100 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 

mince again; then thoroughly mix them with fresh butter until il is 
of a bright green, seasoning with the pepper, or cayenne and s^.lt. 
This is used as an appetizer, for spreading croutons, or to make a 
garnish for savory dishes. 

Horseradish Butter. — Thoroughly mix equal parts of horseradish 
and butter, pass through a sieve and it is ready for use. 

Garlic or Tarragon Butter can be prepared the same way, regulat- 
ing the flavor by the proportion of butter used to the other ingredi- 
ents. 

Nut Butters. — Peanuts, hazel nuts, filberts or other nuts can be 
pounded, mixed with butter, and then passed through a sieve. The 
strength can be regulated by the proportions used. They are deli- 
cious and easily made 

Scented Butter. — Butter can be worked in a bowl with a few drops 
of the essence of any scent desired, then passed through a sieve, and 
it is ready for use. 

CAPER SAUCE. — Melt a cup of butter in a sauce-pan, stir in 2 
tablesi30ons of flour, then add a pint of hot water, stirring rajjidly 
while it boils and thickens; add a little salt if needed, a trifle of 
white pepper, and about a gill of jDickled capers. Caper sauce is 
served with boiled fish, boiled mutton and lamb. 

Mock Capers. — Pick full grown seeds of nasturtiums, but which 
have not turned yellow, leaving 2 inches of the stem attached; wash 
them, put in a glass jar, add vinegar enough to 
cover, and in 7 or 8 days they can be used. 

Capers are the unopened buds of a low, trailing 
shrub growing in Asia and Africa, and they are now culti- 
vated in Europe. They are pickled in vinegar and salt 
before being imported, and are used to flavor sauces and 
vinegars. They have a pleasant pungent taste, and pos- 
sess both stimulant and laxative properties. They are 
sometimes colored green by the use of copper vessels, 
producing a poisonous adulteration. This can be 
detected by inserting a polished piece of steel or iron, 
and if copper is present it will coat the metal in a 
short time, the same as described for pickles. The hys- 
sop of Scripture is a variety of caper. 

THE OAPEB. 

CAULIFLOWER SAUCE — Make a drawn butter sauce with 
part cream, and to it add boiled cauliflower, cut into small dice. 
Nice for fried or boiled fowls. 

CELERY SAUCE — Take G sticks of celery and cut the white 
part into pieces ^ inch long; cook them in salted water for 20 min- 
utes, pour off the water and cover them with 1 pint of milk; boil 
until the celery is tender — about 15 minutes; add an even tablespoon 
of flour and a piece of butter the size of an egg; rub the flour 




SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 101 

rimooth with a little cold milk; season with salt and cayenne to taste. 
Boil 2 minutes to thicken. 

CHESTNUT SAUCE.— Take 2 cups shelled chestnuts, and 
blanch them by putting them for 3 minutes into boiling water and 
then taking off the skin; Cook till soft in salted water, and then 
mash very fine. Put 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 tablespoon of 
flour into a saucepan, and cook till brown; add it to the chestnuts, 
stir it in well, cook 3 minutes, and season to taste with pepper and 
salt. Make a gravy of the drippings of the poultry, stir in the chest- 
nuts, and serve. Good for roast turkey, 

CHUTNEE SAUCE. 

1 cup granulated sugar. 1 clove of garlic. 

2 cups vinegar. ^ teaspoon mustard. 
^ tablespoon ground ginger. 1 large onion. 

15 sour apples. ^ teacup raisins, seeded and 

chopped. 
Peel, core and slice the apples, and stew soft in just enough 
vinegar to cover them; then mash finely. Chop the onions and gar- 
lic finely and add, with the sugar, raisins, salt, ginger and mustard; 
scald all together and set away till next day ; then add the vinegar, 
cold, and mix all together thoroughly. Bottle and cork tightly, and 
keep in a cool, dark place. Good for meat or fish. 

CURKANT SAUCE. 
1 cup of soup^stock. 1 mustard=spoon of cloves 

1 teaspoon of salt. and black pepper. 

1 tumbler of currant jelly. Juice and rind of 1 lemon. 

Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a sauce-pan with the 
above ingredients, and let them come to the boiling point; then add 
1 tablespoon of corn-starch wet with a little water: stir until it 
thickens, then send to the table. Good with game and poultry. 

CREAM SAUCE — Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce-pan, 
and stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; add a little salt and a little white 
pepper, then add gradually a pint of hot cream. Scald the cream 
by putting it in a pitcher; set the pitcher in a tin dish or kettle of 
hot water, and set on the hot stove. Cream sauce is good to serve 
with an omelet, or any kind of boiled fish. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE — Peel and chop finely 2 or 3 cucumbers 
(they must be so young that the seeds are small); chop one small 
onion and add to the cucumbers. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne 
and vinegar; this is better liked by some people than the navy 
sauce. 



102 SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 

CRANBERRY SAUCE.— To serve with roasted tmkey: A pint 
of cranberries, | teacup of sugar, and | teacup of water is about the 
right proportion. Stew the cranberries in the water until they are 
tender; then add the sugar. 

CURRY SAUCE.— Slice thin 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of cel- 
ery and stew in 2 tablespoons of butter, until tender; put in a pinch 
of mace, a teaspoon of curry powder and 1 of thyme leaves; add 1 
pint of water and a bay=leaf ; let it come to the boiling point; thicken 
with a tablespoon of flour, strain and serve. 

EQG SAUCE — Take three hard=boiled eggs, chop fine, and add 
to 1 cup of drawn butter sauce. Good for fish. 

FENNEL SAUCE.— Mix 1 tablespoon of 
flour and 1 cup water to a smooth batter; put 
into a sauce^pan, add 2 tablespoons of butter, 
season with salt, and keep stirring one way 
until all are melted; add 1 tablespoon of fen- 
nel, chopped fine and free from dirt; simmer 
for 1 or 2 minutes, and serve. Excellent 
for oily fish like salmon or mackerel. 

Fennel is generally grown in gardens, and its ele- 
gant leaves are used to ornament and garnish various 
dishes and they are sometimes used to flavor soups and 

^^^°^^' THE FENNEL. 

FISH SAUCE. 

1 saltspoon of cayenne. 2 tablespoons of walnut catsup. 

1 qt. best cider vinegar. 1 teaspoon of salt. 
1 bruised garlic. 

Mix all together! Put in large bottles, after standing a week, 

stirring every day; cork tightly. Use with any fish. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.— Rub ^ cup of butter to a cream, add 
the yolks of 2 eggs (one at a time) and beat well. Stir in the juice 
of half a lemon, 1 saltspoon of s£,lt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. 
When ready to serve, add ^ cup of boiling water; place the bowl in a 
pan of boiling water, or on the top of the tea=kettle, and scald until 
as thick as custard, stirring all the time. This sauce is served with 
fish or meat. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE— Thoroughly mix 4 tablespoons of 
grated horseradish with 1 teaspoon of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoon of 
salt, "I teaspoon of pepper and 2 teaspoons made mustard; moisten it 
with sufficient vinegar to give it the consistency of cream; 3 or 4 





H0ESEBADI8H. 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 103 

tablespoons of cream added will improve its appearance and flavor. 
To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put in a hain marie, or put it 
in a cup or jar and place it in a pan of boiling water; make it hot, 
but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. This is a great improve- 
ment on the old-fashioned way of serving cold, scraped horse-radish 
with hot roast beef. Of course with cold meat the sauce should be 
served cold. 

Horseradish Sauce, No. 2. — Cook in a double boiler for 15 minutes, 
^ cup cracker crumbs, ^ cup grated horseradish, and 2 cups milk; add 
1 large tablespoon of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Use 
freshly grated horseradish and rolled cracker 
crumbs. This is very appetizing. 

No. 3. — Take 2 cups horseradish grated fine, 
1 hard=boiled egg pulverized; add sweet cream, 
and a little butter; salt and vinegar to taste. 

Horseradish is a native of Europe and grows readily 
in damp ground. It should never be preserved by drying, 
because of the great volatility of its oil, but the root 
should be kept moist by burying it in the sand. Its vola- 
tile oil evaporates so rapidly that even when scraped for 
the table it almost immediately spoils by exposure to the 
air. It stimulates the appetite and aids digestion, but is 
most unwholesome when taken on an empty stomach. 

LEMON SAUCE.— For a boiled fowl take the chicken liver boil- 
ed and mashed fine; add the juice and pulp of one lemon (without 
the seeds) and add it to 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, 

LOBSTER SAUCE — Take the meat from the tail and claws of 
a boiled lobster, chop it into dice ^ inch in size. Add it to a drawn 
butter sauce, and season with cayenne pepper, salt and lemon juice. 
Adding a teaspoon of lobster butter will make it a bright red. Good 
for any fish. 

MANDRAM SAUCE — Take cucumbers, pare them, and chop in 
small pieces; take half the quantity of young onions and cut them 
fine; add the juice of a lemon and a dessert-spoon of vinegar. This 
is very good with any roast meat. 

MATELOTE SAUCE — Peel and cut finely 2 large or 4 small 
onions, and fry them in a little butter until they are a rich brown, 
but do not burn them; then add about half a teacup of butter. 
When it is all melted, stir in a tablespoon of flour, and when it is 
well browned in the butter, add half a pint of cold water; stir well 
and let come to a boil. Season with ground white pepper, a little 
nutmeg, a saltspoon of sugar, and salt to taste; rub all through the 
fine colander and return to the sauce^pan to keep hot until wanted. 
Good \vith meats. 



104 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 

MISS MAITLAND'S MAYONNAISE.— Take the raw yolks of 2 
eggs, ^ teaspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of white pepper, 
a mustard spoon of made mustard, | teaspoon of lemon juice, ^ pint 
of olive oil. After all is thoroughly blended, add 2 tablespoons of 
tarragon vinegar. Good with fish. 

MILK SAUCE (Plain). — Melt | cup of butter in a sauce-pan; 
stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; then pour in and stir rapidly 1 pint of 
scalded milk; season with salt and white pepper. 

MINT SAUCE — Take 2 tablespoons sugar, ^ cup of finely cut 
mint, ^ cup vinegar; mix and let stand 1 or 2 hours before serving, to 
well season the vinegar with the mint. Use the leaves 
and tender tips only; wash them in slightly salt- 
ed water; then shake off the water, gather tightly in the 
hand, and cut finely with the scissors. 

Mint. — There are many varieties of mint, and tlie species are 
distributed nearly all over the world. The green mint or sjjear- 
mint is the variety commonly used in cookery, the leaves being 
used in sauces and salads, and to counteract the flatulent proper- 
ties of some young vegetables. Spearmint is highly esteemed as 
an anti=3pasmodic and stomachic. Peppermint is another variety, 
possessing the same properties, but is much stronger. The oil 
which is extracted from it is a carminative and stimulant, and is 
used for flavoring lozenges, etc. mint. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE — Put a piece of butter the size of an egg 
in a sauceqjan with 1 heaping tablespoon of sifted flour. Soften the 
butter and mix thoroughly with the flour; then add 1 pint of hot 
stock, broth, or hot water; boil up, and add 4 teaspoons of mush- 
room catsup, and the juice of 1 lemon; beat an egg thoroughly and 
stir into the sauce; remove immediately from the fire to prevent 
curdling. This sauce is served with poultry and game. 

MUSTARD SAUCE — To 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, add a 
little cayenne pepi^er and three teaspoons of prepared mustard. 

Prepared Mustard — Take 2 heaping tablespoons of ground mustard 
and add 1 teaspoon of sugar and \ teaspoon of salt; wet it with good 
vinegar and stir it to a smooth paste; then add more vinegar and 
cook it until it thickens like paste, adding more vinegar until of the 
consistency required. 

No. 2.— Put 3 large tablespoons of ground mustard into a bowl, 
and pour on enough warm water to make a stiff paste; rub smooth, 
add I cup vinegar, a pinch of salt, and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; set 
the mixture in bollliig water, and stir constantly until it thickens; 
then add butter the size of an egg, and continue the stirring until it 
is dissolved. Splendid. 




SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 105 

French Mustard". — Use 4 tablespoons of the best English mustard, 
2 teaspoons of salad oil, 2 teaspoons of white sugar, 2 teaspoons of 
salt, 1 teaspoon of white pepper, 1 small garlic minced very fine, and 
tarragon vinegar to mix to a smooth paste. Put the mustard into a 
bowl and add the oil, rubbing it in with a wooden spoon until it is 
all absorbed. Wet with the vinegar until you have a stiff paste; add 
the salt, pepper, garlic and sugar, and work all together thoroughly, 
wetting little by little with the vinegar until you can beat it as you 
do cake batter. Beat 5 minutes very hard; put into wide mouthed 
bottles — empty French mustard bottles are the thing, if you happen 
to have them — pour a little oil on the top, cork tightly and set away 
in a cool place. It will be well mixed and ready for use in 2 days. 

French Mustard, No. 2. — Take 2 tablespoons mustard, pour on it 
just enough boiling hot water to make a paste; then add a teaspoon of 
salt, and 1 of sugar, and add a few drops of salad oil if you have it, a 
little butter, then a tablespoon of vinegar. 

.German Mustard. — Take 8 tablespoons of mustard, 4 tablespoons 
white sugar, 4 tablespoons salt, 1 saltspoon of cayenne pepper, 4 ta- 
blespoons of butter, and juice of 1 large raw onion; 
mix all well together, and moisten with a little 
vinegar. 

The flour of mustard in common use is ground from the 
seed of black mustard {sinapis nigra). It possesses an agree- 
able pungency, and is the best stimulant employed to impart 
strength to the digestive organs. In its present form it has 
only been in use about 150 years, although it was used long be- 
fore in a coarsly powdered state. Mixed with hot water, it is a 
strong emetic. In moderate quantities, both mustard and red 
pepper are useful with indigestible foods, like lobster, etc., as 
they are stimulant and aid in the digestion. Mustard is best 
mixed with cold water, as hot water impairs its essential prop- 
erties. It is well to prepare it in small quantities, as it is bet- m.ua±ji.au. 
ter when freshly made. 

NAVY SAUCE. — Chop finely 2 or 3 large onions, and season 
highly with salt, pepper and vinegar. This is fine for those who like 
raw onions, and is served with oysters raw or cooked. 

NUT SAUCE — This is made by pounding to a paste, in a mor- 
tar, the meats of any kind of wild nuts (hazel nuts, hickory nuts, 
butter-nuts, etc.) and mixing the paste with an equal amount of 
nice buttter. It is served with game, or poultry. 

OLIVE SAUCE. — Extract the salt from 1 doz. olives by soaking 
them "I hour in warm water; then pare them close to the stone, 
round and round, as you would an apple, to remove the stone. Then 
put the olive into ^ pint brown sauce, simmer 10 to 15 minutes and 
serve. Good with roast duck or other game. 




106 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 

ONION SAUCE.— Take 3 good' sized onions, boil them till soft, 
pulp through a sieve, and mix it into 1 cup white sauce. Good with 
mutton or lamb chop. 

OYSTER SAUCE — Blanch small oysters, drain and dry in a 
towel, and add them to drawn butter sauce; put in a very little lemon 
juice or tarragon vinegar, let it come to the boiling point and serve. 
It goes with fish, boiled turkey or chicken. 

PARSLEY SAUCE — Take 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 
and add it to 1 cup of hot drawn butter sauce. Color with spinach 
green if you have it, as that will improve the appearance. 

PICKLE SAUCE.— Take 2 or 3 tablespoons of finely chopped 
cucumber pickles, and add them to a drawn butter sauce. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE.— Add 1 tablespoon each of chopped cu- 
cumber pickles, capers and vinegar, to one cup of brown sauce. 

POTATO SAUCE — Grate 3 or 4 large potatoes, wash out the 
starch, and dry a little in a napkin; chop a small onion and mix 
with the raw potato. Season highly with salt, cayenne and vinegar. 
Good with raw or cooked oysters. 

PEPPER SAUCE — Break in pieces 6 pods of red pepper, 3 
dozen black pepper-corns broken in a mortar, 2 tablespoons of white 
sugar, and 1 quart best vinegar. Scald the vinegar in which the 
sugar has been dissolved, pour it over the peppers, put in a jar, and 
steep a fortnight; strain and bottle. This is served with raw oys- 
ters, or fish, and is a fine addition to various salads. 

RAISIN SAUCE. — Cut in two and remove the seeds from 1 lb. 
of large choice raisins; put over the fire in a pint of hot water and 
stew slowly until tender; then add 1 pint of granulated sugar, ^ pint 
of good vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of mixed ground cin- 
namon and cloves. Boil all together 10 minutes, and cork well in 
wide mouthed bottles. An excellent sauce for any cold meats. 

SAUCE ROBERT — Cut finely 3 large onions, and fry in a 
piece of butter as large as an egg; caramel a tablespoon of sugar and 
add it to ^ pint of water, and 2 tablespoons of good cider or wine 
vinegar; add salt, ground white pepper, a saltspoon of dry mustard, 
and a pinch of pulverized sage. Boil well together and add a tea- 
spoon of corn=starch dissolved in a little water. This is good with 
most kinds of meat, game, or fish. 

SHRIMP SAUCE— Take | of a cup of chopped, picked, boiled 
shrimx)s, and add it to 1 cup drawn butter sauce; let it merely sim- 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^^FISH AND MEATS 107 

mer. without boiling, and add a pinch of cayenne, and a few drops of 
lemon juice the last thing. 

SAUCE SUPREME— Chop 3 mushrooms finely, add 1 table- 
spoon of butter and the juice of half a lemon; mix it into 2 cups be- 
chamel sauce, let all simmer 10 minutes, rub through a strainer, and 
it is ready for use. 

TARTAR SAUCE. — Take 2 tablespoons each of Worcestershire 
sauce and vinegar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 2 saltspoons of 
salt; put them into a bowl and set in a pan of hot water to heat. Put 
I Clip of butter in a sauce=pan, brown it, strain, and add to the other 
ingredients. Serve it hot with boiled fish. 

SAUCE TARTARE — Put the yolks of 4 eggs into a sauce^pan, 
and add ^ teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon mustard ; then add alternately 
1 teaspoon each of olive oil and tarragon vinegar (adding them very 
gradually) until it is of the right consistency. Then add 2 chopped 
shallots, or instead 2 tablespoons chopped pickled onions and gher- 
kins. This sauce is often too acid. It goes well with fried oysters 
or fish, or with boiled tongue or codfish. 

TOMATO SAUCE.— To 6 tomatoes add 2 cloves, pepper, salt 
and a sprig of parsley; stew 30 minutes, and strain through a sieve 
into a saucepan put butter the size of an egg, set over the fire, and 
when it bubbles well, add 1 large tablespoon flour; when well Cooked 
(keeping it stirred and mixed well) add the strained tomato; stir un= 
til smooth, and serve. This can also be made with canned toma- 
toes. 

SAUCE VELOUTE — Heat in melted butter, 1 pound of veal, cut 
finely, and any bits of fowl you may have, together with 12 good=siz- 
ed mushrooms; do not let them brown; then put them into a sauce- 
pan with two carrots and onions cut finely, a large tablespoon of 
flour, salt, pepper, a little mixed spice and as much veal gravy as will 
cover them. Let it boil up, skim off the fat, and let it simmer for an 
hour and a half; strain, and keep it covered for use. 

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE. 

1 oz. of cayenne. 1 grated nutmeg. ^ 
6 anchovies (mashed). 1 oz. of salt. 

2 qts. vinegar. 6 cloves of garlic (minced). 
1 oz. black pepper. 1 oz. cloves (pulverized). 

Mix all together and let it stand in a jug for 2 weeks; then 
'strain and bottle for use. It must be tightly corked and kept in a 
dry, cool place. 



108 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE, No. 2. 
3 teaspoons cayenne. 1 mustard= spoon powdered cloves. 

3 anchovies, chopped fine. 3 onions, chopped fine. 

3 teaspoons walnut catsup. 1 qt. good cider or wine vinegar. 

Put all together in a stone jar and set in a kettle of water to 
become scalding hot; then let it stand in the jar, closely covered, 2 
days; bottle after straining, and cork tightly. 

WALNUT SAUCE. — A half peck of walnuts young enough to 
crush easily — they can be rolled on a board or crushed in a mortar. 
Add 2 quarts of vinegar "and a gill of salt. Stir and mash together 
for a week; then boil in a porcelain kettle, adding a heaping tea- 
spoon of ground black pepper, the same of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 
1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and 1 teaspoon of ground ginger. 
Boil all to a paste; if too thick to run from a bottle, add more vine- 
gar to thin it. Keep corked tightly in a dark closet. Some cooks 
do not mash while cooking, but strain off the juice to bottle. Good 
with meats. 

CURRY POWDER. {Kitchener's.) 
3 oz. coriander seed. 1 oz. mustard, ground. 

1 oz. cayenne. ^ oz. fenugreek seed. 

1 oz. allspice. 2 oz. cassia buds. 

3 oz. turmeric. 1 oz. ground ginger. 

Pulverize all together; bottle tight, and keep in a dark closet. 
Good for meats. 

CURRY POWDER. {White's.) 

^ lb. turmeric. 2 oz. ground ginger. 

4 oz. black pepper. | oz. cardamon seed. 
^ oz. caraway seed. 8 oz. coriander seed. 
4 oz. cumin seed. 2 oz. cayenne. 

Pulverize and bottle as above. 

HERB POWDER FOR FLAVORING— Dry in a moderate oven 
very carefully 2 oz. each of thyme, winter savory, parsley, sweet 
marjoram and lemon peel; then pound the lemon peel in a mortar 
separately with ^ oz. celery seed; then pound the 
herbs, mix all, pass through a fine sieve, and keep 
closely corked in a bottle. To use, add to each 2 
pints of soup 1 teaspoon of the powder. 

The Maejobam is a plant of which there are several 
varieties. The sweet or knotted marjoram ia the one usual- 
ly preferred in cookery. It is a native of Greece. It is 
rather tender, and requires a light, dry soil, but if taken in 
doors and kept in a warm, sheltered place, free from wet, it 
may be kept through the winter. The leaves have an 
agreeable aromatic flavor, and are used in soups, stuffings, 
etc. Medicinally it is a stimulant tonic, and useful for makjobam. 

nervousness. 




SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 109 

RAGOUT POWDER.— Take 1 oz. of lemon peel, dried and 
grated, 1 oz. each of black pepper and mustard, ^ oz. each of nutmeg, 
ginger, mace and cloves, all ground fine; 1 saltspoon cayenne pepper, 
and 4 tablespoons of salt. Thoroughly mix the ingredients together, 
pass through a fine sieve, and keep in closely corked bottle. Ragout 
or sauce is much improved by adding a teaspoon of the powder. 

SASSAFRAS POWDER — Select sassafras leaves which are very 
young and tender, and dry them in a cool, airy place, spread out on 
white paper; then pound in a mortar till fine, pass through a hair 
sieve; bottle and cork tightly. They are used in gumbo and other 
soups, and in sauces. 

FLAVORED VINEGARS — These are a great addition to many 
dishes, like fish, sauces, salads, meats, etc. Keep them well corked, 
in a dry, cool place. 

Cayenne Vinegar. — Put into a glass bottle 2 cups vinegar and 1 
tablespoon of cayenne pepper, let stand 4 weeks, strain and bottle for 
use. It is useful for gargling sore throats, as well as for seasoning 
soups and sauces; but very little is needed at a time. 

Celery Vinegar. — Put into a jar 2 pints celery, chopped fine; bring 
to a boil and pour on hot, 2 pints good cider vinegar, and 1 table- 
spoon each of sugar and salt; let it cool, cover and let it stand a fort- 
night; strain and bottle. 

Chili Vinegar. — Out finely 1 quart of chili peppers, or any kind of 
ripe red peppers. Add a quart of vinegar and a tablespoon of salt; 
let it stand for a week, stirring daily; then strain and bottle for use. 

Cucumber Vinegar — Pare, slice, and put into a stone jar, 10 large 
or 12 small cucumbers; add 2 onions sliced, 1 tablespoon of salt, 2 ta- 
blespoons of pepper, | teaspoon cayenne and 1 quart vinegar; let it 
stand 1 week, boil it up once, and when cold, strain through muslin, 
bottle and seal. Excellent for gravies, hashes, salads and cold 
meats. 

Elder=flower Vinegar. — Into 1 quart of good strong vinegar put 1 
pint elder flowers free from the stalks; let stand 2 weeks in the sun 
or in a warm place; strain through flannel, and put up in quite small 
bottles. It can also be made by infusing the leaves, either fresh or 
dried, in the same way, the fresh being the best. The vinegar is 
used both in cookery and in perfumery. 

Garlic Vinegar. — Into 1 quart of cold boiled vinegar put 2 oz. of 
finely chopped garlic; let stand 2 weeks, strain, and bottle for use. 

Shallot vinegar can be made the same way. 

Cress vinegar can be made by bruising in a mortar ^ oz. cress 
seed, and letting it stand 2 weeks in 1 quart of cold, boiled vinegar. 



110 SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL-FISH AND MEATS 

Horseradish Vinegar. — Put into a bottle 1 quart vinegar, ^ lb. 
scraped horseradish, a pinch of cayenne and 1 teaspoon sugar; let 
stand two weeks, shaking daily; then strain and bottle. An excellent 
relish for cold beef, etc. 

Lemon Vinegar. — Put the vinegar in a glass bottle and add lemon 
peel; the rind of 1 lemon will flavor a pint of vinegar; let it stand 2 
weeks, then strain and bottle. 

Orange Vinegar can be made the same way. 

Mint Vinegar. — Pick nice fresh mint from the stalks, fill a bottle 
or' jar loosely with them, and then fill it full with vinegar; cover 
closely to exclude the air, and let stand 3 weeks; then strain, put 
into small bottles, and cork tightly. Excellent for roast meats, cold 
meats, soups, etc. 

Parsley vinegar can be prepared the same way, the principle be- 
ing merely to let the herb soak in the vinegar until its flavor is ex- 
tracted. 

Onion Vinegar.— Mince 6 large onions and add a tablespoon of 
salt, letting them stand for 5 or 6 hours. Take 1 quart of vinegar, 
and 1 tablespoon of sugar and pour over the onions; put in a jar, tie 
down the cover and let steep for a fortnight; then strain and bottle. 
This gives an onion flavor to meat sauces and gravies, when liked, 
without the trouble of cooking onions for each dinner. 

Tarragon Vinegar. — Take a handful of tarragon leaves just before 
the plant begins to bloom, and cover them with the best cider or 
wine vinegar (a quart is as much as would be needed for a year in a 
small family ) ; let the leaves steep in the vinegar for a week, turning 
them every day; then strain, and bottle tightly. This is good in 
sauces for boiled fish or poultry. 

The Taebagon is a hardy plant which grows in light, dry- 
ish soil. It is a native of Siberia, and belongs to the order 
Compositae. It has smooth leaves, of a bright green color, 
which are agreeable to the taste, and are used principally for 
making the tarragon vinegar. 

Other Flavored Vinegars.— J5Zacfc Pepper Vinegar, 
Caper Vinegar, Capsicum Vinegar, Ginger Vine- 
gar, Red Rose Vinegar, Curry Vinegar, Truffle 
Vinegar, White Pepper Vinegar, and several oth- 
ers can be made by steeping about 1 oz. of the arti- 
cle in 1 pint of good vinegar for 2 weeks, to ex- tabbaqon. 
tract its flavor; then strain and bottle. Celery Seed 
vinegar is made the same way, but first crush the seeds. Using a 
little more of any article increases the strength. 




MEATS. 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING. 

"To be a good cook means the economy of our great'grandmothers, and the 
science of the modern chemist." — Ruskin. 

EFORE taking up the subject of cooking meats, etc., it may 
be of both interest and profit to our readers to explain some 
of the fundamental principles which underlie the processes 
of cookery. It is a lamentable fact that of the great multi- 
tude of people who daily prepare food for human consumption, very 
many have no idea of the principles involved. And yet these prin- 
ciples are quite simple, and can be easily comprehended, and if they 
were well understood, immense amounts of food might be saved 
which are now spoiled in the cooking and thus rendered both unpal- 
atable and indigestible. 

BROILING OR GRILLING — To broil successfully put meat on a 
broiler or gridiron, put it over the fire, and heat it suddenly to crust 
the outside and keep in the juices. Fibres of meat are surrounded 
by water holding in solution albumen and certain soluble salts which 
are of the highest value as food. Albumen is soluble in cold water, 
it begins to coagulate at 145°, sets into a jelly at 160° and becomes a 
tough opaque mass at 212°. When suddenly heated this albumen 
near the surface coagulates and forms a thin film or crust which 
will hold in the other nutritive juices. The crust should, if pos- 
sible, be formed all over the surface of the meat, and not on one 
side alone. Do not stick a fork or anything else into meat to see 
if it is done, as that will form holes and let out the juice. 

If the article is dipped in melted fat before putting it on the 
gridiron, it will help set the surface albumen quickly. If it is very 
lean, or there is but little fat, it is well to draw it through a little 
melted butter or oil on a plate. For fish, it would be well to always 
do this, and the fish (not meat) may be sprinkled with salt and pep- 
per before being dipped in the oil. Fish is also floured to prevent 
its sticking to the gridiron. 

When the meat is browned all over, and ceases to feel sjDongy, it 
is done. A little experience will show just the right time to stop the 
broiling; then allow it to rest for 1 minute on a very hot plate, and 
serve. Do not put any salt on the meat while it is cooking; the 

111 



112 MEATS 

seasoning should be put on the meat after it is put on the hot plat- 
ter. Kemember, therefore, that the rules for broiling are always the 
same, viz.: a hot fire at ^rs/ with a hot gridiron well greased; fre- 
quent turning; no holes made to see if the meat is done and so let 
out the juices. Also remember, that the smaller the article, the hot- 
ter the fire necessary, and that for larger ones a more moderate fire is 
needed, or hold it further away from the fire. 

BAKING AND ROASTING.— The first object is to harden the 
surface albumen, and so imprison the juices of the meat the same as 
in broiling. To do this, the fire and utensils must be very hot at 
first, and the heat can afterwards be lessened by cooling the oven. 
The smaller the joint, the higher the temperature to which it should 
be exposed, while the larger the joint, the smaller the fire, lest it 
should be burnt outside before it is cooked enough inside; but it 
should be hot at first and cooler afterwards. If the oven is only 
warm at first, the surface albumen will not be coagulated, the juices 
will escape, and the damage cannot afterwards be repaired. In a 
perfectly roasted joint the outside albumen should be thoroughly 
hardened, but inside, the heat should only reach the stage which 
swells and softens the fibrin. If cooked more than this, the fibre 
becomes tough and separates into bundles which resist the teeth and 
digestive organs. 

Basting — It is very important that the meat should be frequently 
basted — say every 10 to 20 minutes — and do it quickly, so as not to 
keep the oven door open longer than necessary. The drippings from 
the meat are the best thing with which to baste it; some cooks add 
some beef drippings. Owing to the heat of the oven, the outside 
surface soon becomes dry, and basting the meat covers it over with a 
thin film of fat which assists in imparting heat, while it checks the 
evaporation of the juices. Water is sometimes put in the drippings 
pan to baste with, but it should be remembered that the water can- 
not be heated above 212°, while 280° or more is needed for proper 
baking; so that water should not be put in the pan at first. Use 
beef drippings or fat from the meat itself at first, and add a little 
water later, if it is used. If a frothed surface is desired, flour may 
be dredged upon it every time it is basted. When you baste it, look 
at the joint and see if one side is more brown than the other; if so, 
turn it around; also, it is well very often to turn it over. All game 
and poultry requires a hot, clear fire, frequent basting, and should be 
sent to the table direct from roasting. It should not be finished 
long before it is wanted, and then " kept hot." 

A basin of water in the oven will produce steam which will 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING IIB 

check the tendency to scorch and dry the meat. Hot, dry air is 
thirsty for water and will absorb it eagerly from any moist substance 
with which it comes in contact, but if the air is kept moist by keep- 
ing a pan of water in the oven, the tendency is overcome; water in 
the dripping=pan does the same thing. This, however, should not be 
relied on as a substitute for having the oven hot at first and cooler 
afterwards. Do not put in the water until after the strong heat at 
first has set the surface albumen of the meat. It is better not to use 
water with meat which is desired rare, or with small cuts, but only 
for large roasts which require long, slow cooking. 

BOILING. — To properly boil meat is quite an art, and the best 
method is as follows: Meat to be eaten should be plunged at once 
into boiling water, as that coagulates the albumen on or near the sur- 
face and forms a thin film (perhaps not thicker than cotton cloth), 
and this film holds the juices inside the meat. After this the water 
should merely simmer until the meat is heated through to the center 
sufl&ciently to cook it, but not enough to harden the albumen inside. 
About 160° to 180° is right for the simmering water. Cooked in 
this way the meat should cook longer, however, than by the old 
method of rapid boiling, but it will be much more digestible and 
better. 

If there are any exceptions to the above principles for boiling 
meat, they are in the case of sinewy and tendonous meat when gela- 
tine is abundant, for to make gelatine soft and eatable, long contin- 
ued boiling is necessary. Thus calf's head and feet, shins of beef, 
knuckles of veal, cow heel, tripe, etc., are usually best put into cold 
water first, and boiled longer than other meat. 

A good practical method for boiling meat is to put it first into 
boiling water, being sure to have enough water to cover the meat. 
Of course, putting a large piece of cold meat into the water will at 
first stop it from boiling, so keep it on the fire a short time (say 10 
minutes) with the lid on; then take off the lid and skim it. As soon 
as the water begins to boil thoroughly again, the surface albumen 
will be coagulated; then lift the kettle off the fire on to the side of 
the range, so as to stop the boiling at once. Leave it there a short 
time — say 15 to 20 minutes — so that the meat may get hot clear 
through. This will prevent the meat at the finish from being over- 
cooked outside, and blue and uncooked in the middle. Then place it 
on the fire again and let it simmer. The time for simmering should 
be from 10 to 12 minutes for every pound of meat. All the best ex- 
perience, however, agrees in this, that a long, slow boiling produces 



114 MEATS 

the best results, so that no exact rule can be given as to the time. 
An even teaspoon of salt can be put into the water in which the meat 
simmers; it is enough to season the meat on the outside, and more 
can be added when it is eaten, and, besides, most of the meat sauces 
contain a quantity of salt which serves as flavoring. 

After meat is put into boiling water, a scum will rise to the sur- 
face; this should be skimmed off and thrown away. It is one of the 
very few things in the processes of cooking which should be thrown 
away, as it is wasted food. The scum is the albumen which is drawn 
out of the meat, coagulated by the heat, and rises to the surface. 
Although the greater part will rise at first, do not fail to skim during 
the whole process; if any is left, it will attach itself to the meat, and 
spoil its appearance. 

Salt meat should be put in cold water after being washed thor- 
oughly in fresh water or milk; the water should then be slowly 
brought up to the simmering point. This will draw out the salt. 
Remember that all salted and dried meats should simmer slowly, as 
rapid boiling hardens them. All trimmings of meat should be used 
in the soup^kettle, or simmered in a little water and made into gravy. 

In boiling an egg, what we want is to set the white, without 
making the albumen tough and hard; the best way, therefore, is to 
always keep the water below the boiling point — nearer that of sim- 
mering water. Some people put the egg in cold water and take it off 
as soon as it boils. Others prefer to put it first into a sauce=pan of 
boiling water, and then take off the pan and let it cook as the water 
cools. It is a mistake to boil even a hard boiled egg an instant 
longer than is enough to set the albumen in the white and yolk. 

Recollect that vegetables require boiling, and meat only simmer- 
ing; therefore, you can not, as a rule, boil vegetables with meat with- 
out spoiling one of them. Vegetables should be put into boiling 
water at first, and kept there. 

Flour foods, such as macaroni, sago, rice, cornflour and flour 
puddings, should be kept all the time in boiling water, in order to 
burst the starch granules. The mechanical action of fast bubbling 
water is often useful here, partly in preventing the grains of rice, 
etc., from settling to the bottom of the pan. 

STEWING — This is a process often confounded by ilhinformed 
people with boiling a long time, and even moderately good cooks 
often confound it with " simmering." A stew, properly so called, 
is when both meat and juice — that is, all the liquor — are eaten to- 
gether. Stewing invariably requires a heat much below that of 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 115 

boiling water; 135° to 160° is about stewing point. Whatever is 
stewed, parts with much of its goodness to the surrounding liquor, 
which should not, therefore, be wasted. And yet it is not desirable 
in stewing to extract all the juices from the meat, as is done in mak- 
ing soup or beef = tea; part should be barely coagulated, and thus re- 
tained in the meat in as tender a condition as possible. To accom- 
plish this, a hain-marie or double boiler is an excellent thing to use. 
If you have not this, it will be a good idea to extemporize one, by 
setting one dish inside another, something like a carpenter's glue- 
pot. A puddingsbasin, with a wide projecting rim, may be set into 
another pan just large enough for it to drop into and rest upon its 
rim. Put the meat into this basin, pour hot water over it, and pour 
hot water into the outer basin, forming a " water bath;" then let this 
outer water boil, but very gently, so as not to make the inside basin 
jump with its steam. Stew it thus for about double the time usually 
prescribed, and compare the result with similar materials stewed in 
the old way. ^ The superiority will be evident. In any event, even 
if stewed on the old plan, the water should not hoil nor get near the 
boiling point: keep the water at 150° to 160° by setting the dish at 
the side of the stove and letting it quietly stew. Less water is used 
than in boiling. A common mistake is to put in too much water. 
The meat needs to be barely covered, and cooks forget that at the 
moderate heat of stewing there is very little loss by evaporation. It 
is the cheapest method of cooking that there is. Little heat is re- 
quired, and therefore little fuel used; nothing is wasted, and what- 
ever goes into the pot comes out. No attention is needed while 
cooking, and the cheapest and coarsest meat can be used. 

This method is peculiarly adapted for all gelatinous meat, such 
knuckles, heads and feet, and for all tough, fibrous meats, because 
long=continued, moderate heat, with moisture, is the best way of 
bringing gelatine and tough fiber into an eatable condition, and it 
will not only make it eatable but palatable. A tough fowl can in this 
manner be made presentable, better than by any other. In order to 
prevent the extraction of all the juices from the meat in stewing, 
the best way is to fry it first; this gives it a good color and mode- 
rates the escape of the juices, which is often very desirable. The 
thoughtless method of putting it in an excess of water and then let- 
ting it boil away, produces miserable results. 

In stewing, meat and vegetables are often cooked together, but 
as the principles involved in cooking them are difPerent, and they re- 
quire different treatment, the best plan is to boil the vegetables first. 



118 MEATS 

and then use them and their liquor for the stew. Some people have 
a prejudice against a " stew." If so, you can dignify it by giving it 
a French name, and call it a ragout — but be sure you pronounce it 
ra=goo', not ra=gowt. 

FRICASSEEINQ.— This means, literally, " to fry." It is usually 
applied to a chicken, rabbit or any small animal which is cut up and 
fried, either before or after stewing, and served in a well flavored sauce. 

FRYING. — There are 2 ways of frying known to cooks as (1) 
wet frying, sometimes called French frying or frying in a kettle of 
hot fat; and (2) dry frying or cooking in a frying-pan. The best re- 
sults are undoubtedly obtained by the first method, although it is 
little used in this country. We will describe the 2 methods: 

To fry anything by the first, or French method, is to cook it by 
immersing it in very hot fat. In fact, just as in boiling we must let 
the water cover what is boiled, so in this method we must let the fat 
cover what is fried. The same fat will do over and over again, so 
that this method is not as expensive as many people imagine. Food 
fried in this way comes out quite dry, and without any of the greasy 
moisture of frying-pan cookery. An iron sauce=pan or small kettle 
must be used, as the heat of the fat melts the solder of a tin i)an. 
The rules for good frying are: (1) The fat must be sufficiently 
deep to fully cover the article. (2) The fat must be sufiiciently 
hot, in fact, it should smoke. (3) When anything is floured before 
it is fried, it must not be floured until the last moment before it is 
plunged into the fat. (4) When anything is fried that has been 
egged and bread^crumbed, it is best to egg and bread-crumb it some 
little time before it is fried. (5) Shut the kitchen door and open 
the window a little to avoid scenting up the house; this is a practical 
point which should be remembered. 

Now a few hints: The exterior of the substance to be fried 
should be as dry as possible; by this means we get a good color, and 
less bubbling is caused. Fish can be rubbed in flour; vegetables 
with a cloth; meat should not be washed. Before dropping anything 
that contains much water into hot fat, lift the kettle ofp of the stove, 
as the fat is liable to bubble over and catch fire. Most things that 
are fried are covered with egg and bread crumbs, flour and milk, or 
batter, in order that a crust may be formed round them to keep the 
juice in and the fat out; the essential thing is to cover them com- 
pletely and leave no crack. It is best to warm the articles a little 
before putting them in to fry, as, if they are to cold, or if too many 
are put in together, they will chill the fat, so that it will soak into 



THE PEOCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OP COOKING 117 

them. On taking any fried article out of the fat, lay it to drain on a 
sieve, bottom up, or on a very hot cloth, or best of all, on a sheet of 
blotting paper. The hot fat being extremely fluid, will drain off and 
leave the article free from grease. Never pile up on top of each oth- 
er articles which are- fried. Bread crumbs should be very fine; if 
coarse, grease will adhere to or be absorbed by them. They should 
take a fine, yellow color, being slightly charred or toasted by the 
high temperature to which they are exposed. Things well fried are 
not greasy, but quite dry. 

Frying food thus is not adapted to materials which require slow 
cooking at a low temperature, because it heats the surface much be- 
yond the temperature of boiling, and, if prolonged, meat is heated 
clear through and toughened. Croquettes and similar preparations 
of cold meat are much nicer cooked in this way, and many kinds of 
fish are greatly improved by this process, while chops and cutlets 
which are first egged and bread- crumbed, are delicious thus cooked. 

If many articles are to be fried, reheat the fat occasionally to 
keep it hot enough. Using fat which is not hot enough is a com- 
mon mistake; keep the fat smoking hot. There is much more danger 
of not having it hot enough than too hot. 

It is advisable, when possible, to use a wire frying-basket. 
This does away with much handling, and lifts all the things out at 
the same time. A basket should not be used for fritters, which stick 
to the basket, and the articles in the bas- 
ket should not touch each other. As a 
basket expands with heat, it should not fit 
the x)an very tightly; it should not touch 
the bottom of the pan. If you have no 
basket use an iron spoon, as tin or Brit- basket foe frying. 

annia metal will melt if the fat is very hot. 

Grease the basket by dipping it into the hot fat before putting the 
articles into it, and lay them in so as to keep them from touching 
each other. 

Fats and oils may be heated much hotter than water, but some 
burn much more easily than others. About 350° to 400° is a suit- 
able temperature for use; it can be higher; for some things which re- 
quire slow cooking, it should be lower. It is better to have the tem- 
perature high at first, lowering it afterwards. Remember that put- 
ting anything cold into fat to cook, lowers its temperature someM^hat. 

The temperature of fat can be obtained with a thermometer, but 
without that, the following tests offer some guide: (1) Drop in a 




118 MEATS 

few drops of water; if the fat bubbles thereupon, it is over 212°; if it 
bubbles very smartly, it is over 300°, (2) Drop in a piece of bread 
and take it out in | minute; if the bread is then crisp, the fat is 
about 350° or more. (3) The more violent the bubbling when any- 
thing is put in, the hotter the fat, (4) A thin, filmy, blue smoke 
arises when the fat is fit for frying; after that, if the fat is further 
heated, it becomes thicker, until the fat is burning, when there is a 
dense cloud. (5) Fat, unless it has left off bubbling and is quite 
still, is never hot enough for frying. These rules are true of all fats, 
and more or less of all frying. 

The reason that fat crackles when it is first put on is, that there 
is generally w^ater in it. This water, being heavier than fat, sinks to 
the bottom and is converted into steam, and these bubbles of steam 
escaping up through the fat makes the bubbling. If not moist with 
water, it would not crackle. When the crackling ceases, it shows 
simply that the fat is hotter than boiling water, and that the water is 
evaporated. 

When you have finished using the fat, pour it into a basin con- 
taining some hot water. Have more water than fat, and pour the fat 
in gradually, if it is very hot, or else it will suddenly create a volume 
of steam; then agitate the fat a little, and let it stand until it is cold. 
When you next use the fat, take it out in one large cake, and scrape 
the part next to the water, which will contain impurities. The fat 
should also be occasionally strained while warm. 

With regard to the best fat to use, it may be said that, while 
olive oil is generally considered the best, it is too expensive for gen- 
eral use, and the taste is not liked by some people. Pure cotton seed 
oil answers well, and it has but little odor. Mutton fat or drippings 
is not suitable, as it is apt to leave a tallowy taste and smell, and it 
cools quickly. For every day use, lard is best, or, lard mixed with 
clarified beef suet, or the drippings from roast beef, pork or veal. 
We think, however, that some of the vegetable oils will soon largely 
supplant the animal fats for frying, and most other cooking pur- 
poses. There are many advantages and few objections to their use. 
The fat can be used over and over again. 

It is generally believed that for this method of frying, several 
different supplies of fat are needed, one for meat, one for fish, and so 
on, but if the fat is properly handled and clarified, it will be found 
that this idea is exaggerated. 

Fat for frying can be clarified by cutting it up into small piec- 
es, and putting it into the sauce=pan with just enough water to pre- 
vent its burning, and then heat it over a slow fire until the bottom 



THE PKOCESSES AND PKINCIPLES OF COOKING 119 

can be seen, then it should be strained; or heat it in [a frying-pan to 
285° to 300° F., and then very cautiously sprinkle upon it small 
quantities of water. The steam carries off the volatile fatty acids 
which produce the rancidity in such as fish oils, and also removes the 
neutral, offensive fatty matters that are decomposable by heat. 

CoTTOLENE.— This is a mixture of cottonseed oil and beef suet, and nothing 
SiSe. It is an excellent substitute for butter or lard for shortening, or for other 
fats for frying. It can be used for shortening in any recipe calling for butter or 
lard, but use only about two^thirds as much of it. When used for frying it should 
be heated very hot before the articles to be fried are put into it, as we elsewhere 
explain about all fats used for frying (see "Frying"), but cottolene will not 
"smoke" as other fat does, so test it first by dropping in a piece of bread, and if 
that browns in j^ minute, it is hot enough for use. No further general directions 
are necessary for using it. 

We have elsewhere stated that we believe the day is near at hand when the 
vegetable oils will largely supplant the animal fats for all cooking purposes, and 
we believe the change to be desirable. This is a move in that direction. Cotton- 
seed oil is healthful, nutritious, and its use is unobjectionable. 

CoTOBUET. — This is a preparation similar to cottolene, but made by another 
manufacturer. It is 80 per cent, cottonseed oil and 20 per cent, beef suet. All 
that we have said above about cottolene will apply to cotosuet, or, in fact, to any 
similar preparation of the same ingredients such as Vegetole. 

If an accident occurs when frying, do not throw water on the 
flames, as that turns to steam; smother them instead with a thick 
cloth or strip of carpet. 

The Philosophy of Frying. — This consists largely in the fact that 
different fluids will receive different amounts of heat — water boiling 
at 212°, beyond which it cannot be heated in an open kettle, while 
fat or oil will go to 560° to 600°. Water dissolves and extracts the 
juices of meats submitted to its action, but in fats the juices are pre- 
served, for they are insoluble in oil, and substances submitted to its 
action when it is very hot, harden, assume a more or less deep color, 
and finally become carbonized. If the fat is at the right tempera- 
ture, it will instantly harden the surface albumen, but if the tem- 
perature is too low, the fat will soak into the article, instead of draw- 
ing out the juices as water does. 

To Fry by the Second Plan we Mentioned above, or Dry Frying (the 
French call it Saut6ing) the following directions may be given. To 
fry meat properly in this way, requires care and expedition, or the 
operation will be a failure, and, as in the case of broiling, it must be 
done the last thing while preparing the meal; everything should be 
in place on the table, excepting the vegetables in their hot dishes, 
and if mutton or lamb is to be fried, the plates, even in warm weath- 
er, must be hot, as the fat chills rapidly after being taken from the 
fire. Have the cutlets, steaks or chops all ready for the pan before- 
hand, so as to lose no time at the last; the slices should be of the 
right size to serve. If beef is to be fried, a little of its own fat, cut 



120 MEATS 

in bits, should be melted and sizzling hot in the pan — on this, much 
depends. Put the pieces of meat in the hot fat, add no salt, as that 
draws the juices, and fry as fast as possible, turning and tossing the 
meat to keep it from burning; do not leave it a moment. Have a 
hot platter in readiness and take up the meat when well browned on 
both sides (which will be in less than 5 minutes) dust on it a little 
pepper, if liked, and spread it with butter, with a very little salt 
sprinkled over it very evenly, and send it to the table as hot as possi- 
ble. Meat done in this way will be tender and juicy, like well 
broiled steak. A long, slow simmering of fresh meat, salted in the 
pan, will make it hard and indigestible. 

Fresh pork, beef, mutton and lamb should each be cooked in its 
own fresh fat; veal is so dry and lean that it is usually fried in the 
fat from salt pork, and afterwards seasoned as above. Other meats, 
if they are lean, can be fried in the fat of a single slice of salt pork, 
rather than in butter, which burns if brought to the right heat to 
cook meat without losing the juices. Only enough fat is required to 
keep the meat from sticking to the pan; if there is more, it can be 
poured over the meat, or thickened, and with a little water added, 
used for gravy. 

BRAISING. —This is a way of cooking by the action of heat 
above as well as below the article cooked — the effect is somewhat 
similar to stewing. A braising=pan has a deep cover, on which live 
coals are placed. The pan is air-tight, and as all evaporation is thus 
precluded, the food imbibes whatever flavor the cook may wish to 
give it, in order to effect which, she must place in the pan with the 
meat, whatever vegetables, etc., her recipe may direct. The ingredi- 
ents should be very well proportioned, and the stewing should go on 
very slowly. It is not a common method of cooking in America, 
although more practiced in Europe. 

TO STEAM. — Cooking by steam in private families is not as 
generally practiced as it might be. The steamer fits tightly on a pan 
Or kettle, and as the water boils, the steam fills the steamer and cooks 
the articles in it. A tough fowl, filled with a stufiing of bread 
crumbs, etc., and steamed for 2 hours or so, will be made quite ten- 
der. Fish and oysters cooked in this way are delicious. Stale bread 
and biscuit steamed 5 or 6 minutes, is made fresh and good. Plum 
cake steamed 8 hours and then baked 1 hour, is better than when 
baked in the ordinary way. Potatoes are often steamed. In steam- 
ing ]Duddings, etc., do not use water in which anything else has been 
cooked, as it will give them an unpleasant flavor. Articles being 



THE PHOCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 121 



steamed cannot burn, but do not let the fire get so low that the water 
stops boiling for an instant, or the supply of steam will be lessened, 
to the detriment of the article being cooked, 

SAUTEING. — This is the French name for frying anything 

quickly in a small pan, with a very little dripping, oil or fat, doing 

one side at a time. It is the same as the dry frying which we have 

previously described. The art consists in having the pan and fat 

very hot at the start, and in doing it very quickly, to save the juices 

and succulence in the meat. 

♦\ TO LARD. — This consists in sticking bacon or other specified 

articles into poultry, meat, etc. 

It is done with a larding needle. 

It is sometimes thought a difficult 

operation, but is really exceeding- 

^ly easy. It improves dry, lean 

leats, and though it needs to be 

lone neatly, to look well, a little 



JB Ig. :i. METHOD OF LAEDING MEAT. 

pr^tice teaches this readily. The method is to cut fat bacon into 

nar^^ow strips of equal length and thickness; for poultry and game, 

the^ should be about 2 inches long, ^ inch thick, ^ inch wide; for 

fillets^ of beef, loins of veal, or 

other solid joints, the same ^ 

length and ^ inch thick and 





Fig. 1. LAKDOONS. 




Fig. 3. Ueded neok of mutton. Fig. 4. labded tubkey. 

wide. Nitice that for all white meats, the bacon used must be cured 
without s^tpetre, as that tinges meats red in cooking. Put each of 
these strip\ of bacon (which is called a "lardoon") into a ''larding 
needle," an\ pass the point of this through enough of the fowl or 
joint to holQthe lardoon safely; then draw the needle through, leav- 
ing the bacoy in the meat, with both ends projecting equally. Do 
this in regul^- rows, and at equal distances, until the meat is covered 



122 MEATS 

with a regular pattern. Generally the breasts only of poultry and 
feathered game are larded, and the backs, or backs and thighs of rab- 
bits and hares. With soft meat, like poultry it is well to first 
dip the part to be larded in boiling water for a moment, as that im- 
parts greater firmness to it, and makes it hold the lardoons better. 

DAUBING. — This is somewhat like larding, but the strips of 
pork are pushed entirely through the meat from side to side, instead 
of being merely inserted near the surface. By this means the fat 
and flavor of the pork penetrates the inside of the meat, giving it a 
flavor which some people relish. Cut the fat pork into strips as for 
larding, but a little thicker, and long enough to a little more than go 
through the meat, projecting a little to each side. A hole is first 
punched clear through the meat with a steel instrument, and then 
the strip of fat pork is thrust through with the larding needle or fin- 
gers. Daubing is usually apialied to a thick piece of beef or veal 
The flavor of the ijork may also be obtained, however, by laying it oi 
the top of the meat, leaving it on while cooking, and removing 't 
when done. 

BONING. — This is usually done by the butcher, and means littr- 
ally making the joint or fowl, or whatever it is, boneless. 

BARDING — This is practiced on poultry and game and consists 
in fastening a thin, large slice of fat salt pork on the breast ; ii an- 
swers the purpose of basting. 

GLAZING — This consists in covering certain meats with a thin, 
golden^brown paste (a glaze) made by boiling down rich soup stock. 
It is used to give meats which have not been colored by cooling, a 
glossy surface, and a brown, roasted appearance. 

TO EGG AND BREAD=CRUMB — The best way to make breads 
crumbs is to rub stale bread through a wire sieve, because th« breads 
crumbs should be very fine. A wire sieve is a necessity n every 
home where economy is considered or good cooking desved. If 
the bread=crumbs are to be used for meat or fish, a little p*pper and 
salt can be added; if for sweet dishes, add a little sugar. The eggs 
should be beaten up lightly; a teaspoon of water to each egg helps 
in beating it thin. The rule is, to dip the article that is b be egged 
and bread= crumbed first in the crumbs to dry it; now et it dry a 
little, then dip it in the beaten up egg, drain it, and then roll it 
again in the bread crumbs and leave it in the crumbs uxtil it is put 
in the smoking hot fat. It is best to egg and breachcrunb anything 
some time before it is fried. The dryer the crumbs tie better if a 
good color is desired. 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 123 

The philosophy of this process is that the egg, being albumen, 
when put into the hot fat, hardens into a thin, tough film, which 
keeps the fat from penetrating, and with meat and fish holds the 
juices within them. It is evident that for this purpose every part 
of the surface should be perfectly covered with the egg, and that 
there should be no cracks for the juice to escape through. 

If the egg and bread crumbs fall ofp, it is because the crumbs 
are too coarse; or there is not enough fat in the kettle; or it is not 
hot enough, the latter being often the cause. 

DRIPPING — Excepting the fat from mutton, lamb, and that 
from boiled ham that has been smoked, " dripping " is any fat tried 
from cooked meat. The fat of salted pork is ready for use as 
soon as tried, and may be poured from the frying=pan into the 
bowl kept for that purpose, but the fat from roasted or boiled 
meat contains more or less water and must be heated in the 
frying=pan until all the water has evaporated, and then strained 
into an earthen vessel. If more dripping is saved in this 
way than is needed for shortening or for re^cooking potatoes, 
it can be strained into the kettle for frying doughnuts. An econ- 
omical cook never allows good fat to spoil. The fat from baked 
sausages is excellent for re= warming potatoes, but will not do for 
the doughnut kettle. The fat from poultry may be used very soon 
after trying out, but it becomes rancid much sooner than the fat of 
beef and pork. The fat of mutton and lamb, with that from the 
boiled smoked ham, is only fit for the soap^man. 

When the drippings to be clarified for use are smoking hot in 
the frying-pan, all unpleasant odors (like that of fat from corned 
beef) can be removed by slicing 1 or 2 raw potatoes into the pan 
and leaving them until fried crisp; the potatoes absorb all unpleas- 
ant flavors. 

Thermometers. — We wonder that no one has ever invented a good 
thermometer to be used when cooking, and in the kitchen. We 
know of none now. Mrs. M. H. Abel says she fastened a thermo- 
meter to a cork, having the bulb project below, and protecting it 
with a piece of wood; thus arranged, the cork would float on the 
water, and the temperature of any article boiling or stewing could 
be determined. She also used it to test the oven by hanging it on a 
wire frame. The present "method of guessing at the temperature 
when cooking is very unsatisfactory, and must give way before long 
to a more exact and scientific plan. 

HINTS — In cooking meat, it will be an assistance to remem- 
ber that freshly killed meat requires more time to cook than that 



124 MEATS 

which has been kej)t; also that meat needs cooking rather longer in 
cold weather than in hot. 

To Make Tough Meat Tender — Soak it in vinegar and water; if the 
piece is very large, soak it about 12 hours; for 10 lbs. of beef, use 
about 3 quarts of water and | pint of vinegar, and soak it for 6 or 7 
hours. If the vinegar is not very strong, a very tough piece can be 
soaked 3 or 4 days in summer, and twice as long in wnnter to advan- 
tage, and spices may be added if liked. Or the meat can be brushed 
over with vinegar and let stand with that on ^ to one day. The 
tough fibre is cut and softened by the acid. Sour milk is used for 
the same purpose, by foreign cooks, the lactic acid of the milk acting 
the same as the acetic acid of the vinegar. The meat should be im- 
mersed in the sour milk, which should be changed every day, and 
thoroughly washed off before cooking the meat. Meat is also "hung" 
to make it tender. Stewing also makes many tough mea<vs tender; 
see the preceeding article on " Stewing." 

Washing Meat. — Meat purchased from a good butcher should not 
need washing before being cooked; all that Mali be necessary will be 
to dampen a cloth with cold water and wipe it off; or scrape it with 
a dull knife to remove splinters of bone, sand, etc. Washing meat 
will dissolve out the surface albumen and juices, and detract just 
that much from its value. If necessary to wash it, do not let it stay 
in water, but use cold water, throw it on quickly, and then wipe the 
meat dry. 

The Action of Salt on Meat.— This should be understood. Salt 
causes the fibers of meat to contract, and the juice to flow out of its 
pores, often forcing out in this way as much as \ of the juice of 
the meat, which is the reason of the fact, familiar to every house- 
wife, that dry salt in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes 
fluid brine. Now as the juice thus extracted contains albumen, and 
other valuable principles, it will be seen that meat which has been 
preserved with salt can never have the nutritive value of fresh meat, 
because the juices when once drawn out can never be restored. 

Do 7iot put salt on meat that is being cooked until it is nearly 
done; if added earlier it toughens the fibre. 

Hard and Soft Water. — Many cooks also do not understand the 
action of different waters on meat. For making soup, or broth, soft 
water, unsalted, is best to use, because that more readily penetrates 
the tissues and extracts the juices; but for cooking meat to be eaten, 
where it is desired to retain the juices in the meat, hard water is 
best, or if soft water is used, put a little salt in it. Salt added to the 
water in which meat or fish is cooked acts in 3 ways: (1) It helps 



MEATS 125 

to coagulate the surface albumen. (2) Water containing salt boils 
at a little higher temperature than pure water. (3) It increases the 
density of the water, and the juices flow out less readily. Although 
each action is rather small, they all combine to keep in the juices. 

The Disagreeable Odor of Boiling.— This may be kept from filling 
the house by putting into the water a pod of red pepper. A lump of 
charcoal wrapped in muslin and dropiDed in the kettle will also 
absorb the odor and prevent its permeating the house. 

Burning Fat.— When, in brcwling meat, fat drops down on the 
coals, and you fear it may give the meat a smoky taste, take off the 
gridiron for a minute or two, and put a little salt on the coals. 

To Thaw Frozen Meat. — Put it in cold water, and do not try to 
cook it until it is fully thawed. Do not thaw it until just before it is 
to be cooked. To ascertain whether the thawing is complete, drive 
an iron skewer through the thickest part of the joint; if there is a 
core of ice within, it will be distinctly felt by the resistance it offers. 
If the meat is cooked before it is perfectly thawed, it will often dis- 
play a raw center when done. Meat that has been frozen decom- 
poses easily when thawed, and it is apt to be insipid and dry when 
cooked. 

Cold Meat. — Cold, sliced meats are much relished by many, but 
need not, necessarily, be entirely cold when served, especially in cold 
weather. Arrange the slices neatly on a platter, then set the platter 
in the oven with the door open, and warm just enough to take off the 
chill, but not to start the fat from the meat. Serve it with tomato 
or chili sauce. Cold meat cuts better after it is entirely cold. 

Kemember that in re^warming all kinds of meat, it must not be 
re^cooked, as that has a tendency to harden it. By placing thinly 
cut bits of cold meat in a hot dish, or platter, and pouring over it the 
hot sauce or gravy, and then serving in hot plates in cold weather, 
the meat will be sufficiently heated. Cold butcher's meat of all 
kinds can be treated in this way; also fish, shelhfish, poultry and 
game, each covered with its appropriate hot sauce or gravy. Mutton 
particularly calls for hot x^lates nearly all the year round, as thf^ fat 
hardens immediately on a cold plate. 

GRAVY — Gravy differs from a meat sauce in that it is made of 
the juices which drip from roasted or baked meats; or from tliose 
extracted in the iDrocess of frying or sauteing; or from the broth 
from boiled meats, in contradistinction from a sauce made frc^m 
something foreign to the meat. 

Gravy for roasted meat is made by adding water to the drippings 
pan in which the meat is roasted; the juices of the meat which liav(^ 



126 MEATS 

dried and browned on the sides of the dripping-pan, should be thor- 
oughly stirred down into the pan with a spoon, as this gives color 
and flavor to the gravy; the surplus fat must be dipped off, but a 
small i^ortion left in gives the needed fat and richness to the gravy 
without the addition of butter, and will be thoroughly blended 
through it by the addition of the thickening. The thickening is 
made by mixing flour or corn^starch with a little cold water, and 
stirring it into the boiling contents of the drij)ping=pan, which is 
placed on the top of the stove or ran^e, immediately upon taking up 
the roast. Most cooks of the present day use corn-starch, which 
cooks free from lumps; others prefer the flavor of flour thickening, 
even if it necessitates the straining of the gravy; browned flour, or 
browned flour and butter, called brown roux, or white roux, which is 
raw flour and butter already mixed, is used by professional cooks. 
Gravies should be kept hot in a sauce^pan, after straining, until sent 
to the table for a cold gravy is an abomination. 

Gravy for meat fried in a frying-pan is made in the same way, 
by adding a little hot water to the pan after the meat is taken up, 
then thickening it as above; there is usually no surplus fat when 
meat is cooked in a frying=pan, as only enough fat is used to keep 
the meat from sticking to the pan. 

Gravy for boiled meat is made by dipping the required quantity 
of broth from the top of the iDot, together with a portion of the fat, 
then thicken and season as for other gravies. A spoonful of any one 
of the various meat sauces may be added to gravies for seasoning if 
preferred. 

Do not spoil gravies with high seasoning of any kind, for the 
best gravy is that in which the flavor of the meat is best retained. 
The English method of making gravy with meat=liquor or soup=stock 
is as follows: When roasting beef, mutton, lamb or pork, pour oflP 
into a dish, ^ hour before dinner time, all the contents of the drip- 
ping=pan, and set them away in a cool place; then put into the pan 
1 or 2 cups of the meat liquor or stock; if you have cold gravy or 
drippings of a previous day, take off all the fat from the top, and put 
the liquid which is left, into the pan. Wet some browned flour 
smooth, and when you take up the meat, set the dripping=pan on top 
of the stove; the gravy will at once boil up, and the wet flour must 
then be stirred in. Do not let it stand too long, as it will boil away 
fast. 

With veal and venison, there is but little fat, and that is not 
gross, and so the gravy is made differently. When the meat is first 



BEEF 127 

put to roast, put some meat-liquor or stock in the dripping-pan, and 
add a little more as it boils away. When the meat is done, set the 
dripping=pan on the stove, and, having stirred in the wet flour as 
before, add a piece of butter ^ the size of an egg, and stir until it is 
all melted or it will make the gravy oily. 

For poultry, the gravy is made by boiling the giblets by them- 
selves in a little water; skim it carefully, as a good deal of scum will 
rise. After 1 or 1^ hours, take them out and pour the water into the 
dripping==pan; mash or chop the liver fine, and when you make the 
gravy, add this and a bit of butter, some pepper, the wet flour, and, 
if you choose, a little sweet marjoram. 

The fat that roasts out of a turkey should be dipped off with a 
spoon before these ingredients are added; it is too gross to be palat- 
able. 

For goose gravy, pour off all the drippings as directed for beef 
or pork, and put in some of the meat-liquor or stock. 

To Brown Flour. — Some cooks keep browned flour on hand for 
gravies and soups, and think it gives a better flavor and color than 
white flour. Prepare it as follows: Put about a quart of flour into a 
gpider and set it into the oven or on top of the stove; stir it often 
lest it should burn. When it is a light brown color, set it away for 
use, in a jar or wide mouthed bottle, keeping it corked. 

Garnishing meat adds much to its aiDpearance. Slices of carrots 
are suitable for hot or cold boiled beef. Mint is used for hot or cold 
roast lamb, either with or without parsley. For roast veal and calf's 
head, slices of lemon are used. For boiled meats or stews, use 
capers, boiled onions or pickled gherkins. For roast beef, horse- 
radish is often used. Slices of red beet-root go well on boiled beef 
or cold meat, and for poultry, fish, cold meats, etc., parsley is very 
generally used. 

Slices of lemon served with a plate of beefsteak will impart a 
Jpleasant flavor to it, and those who like onions will relish beefsteak 
served on a platter that has been well rubbed with raw onion. 



BEEF. 

Beef is probably the best and the most wholesome, as it is cer- 
tainly the most economical meat that can be purchased for family 
use. Very lean beef is of inferior quality, while that which is very 
fat is objectionable because it is so wasteful. 

Before boiling salted beef, it should be soaked in a quantity of 



128 BEEF 

water over nii^lit; then put it on in cold water nnd it is mnch better 
for a lonj.!^, slo/c boiling. 

BEEF BALLS. — Chop fine some cold beef, mix with the meat 1 
or 2 welhbeaten eggs, according to quantity of meat; a bit of chopped 
onion, a little melted butter, salt and pepper; flour your hands, roll 
the prepared meat into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

CHIPPED BEEF.— Heat together 1 cup each of milk and water, 
and thicken with a beaten egg and a little flour; when it has boiled 
5 minutes, add a quantity of chipped beef; stir in well and remove 
at once from the fire. 

BEEF OR VEAL CHEESE — Boil and skim beef until the meat 
and gristle drop from the bone; choj) the meat fine, season with pep- 
per, salt and sage, and put in a deep dish; take all the fat from the 
soup and boil it away some, then pour it over the meat, stir well, and 
set away to cool and harden. Cut in slices and eat Cold. 

CORNED BEEF.— Put it into cold water and boil slowly until 
tender. If there are any bones take them out, fold the meat together 
and press it under a heavy weight. It can then be sliced in nice 
shape. Time to boil | hour for each pound of beef. 

BEEF DAUBE (doe-b). — Have a slice cut from the top of the 
round of beef, 3 or 4 inches thick; take out the bone, cut places all 
over it an inch or two apart (doing it as evenly as possible) and 
place little squares of salt pork in each cut; put it in a deep frying= 
pan or bakings tin with a little water, cover tightly, and bake, or sim- 
mer on the stove for an hour; then turn it in the pan, season with a 
little salt, pepper, and herbs if liked, slice on an onion, 2 or 3 pota- 
toes, a small turnip, and a carrot, cover again, and bake or simmer 
until the vegetables are done. Serve with sour apples, baked or 
fried. Time, If hours. 

DEVILED BEEF.— Take 2 lbs. round steak, chopped fine, add a 
cup of bread crumbs, | cup of sweet milk, a good table spoon of but- 
ter, a good teaspoon of salt, a little pepper. Mix and put into square 
deep tins, and bake about | hour. It slices nicely when cold. 

DRIED BEEF — This is commonly served as an appetizer, sliced 
very thinly, and eaten raw. It is cooked by slicing thinly, or rather, 
shaving it as for a relish, then put it in a sauce^jjan and scald with 
just boiling water enough to cover it; let it scald 4 or 5 minutes, 
then drain off the water, and add ^ pint of cream; when this gets hot 
thicken it with a little corn^starch in cold milk: when thoroughly 



BEEF 129 

hot, serve in a hot dish. Milk may be substituted for cream, and a 
little butter added to season it, or the yolk of an egg. This is a con- 
venient and economical dish for a small family living at a distance 
from a market. Serve with either boiled or baked potatoes. 

DRIED BEEF RELISH— Cut dried beef very fine, put it in a 
sauce^pan with a little hot water and let it simmer on the stove a few 
minutes; add a little butter, toast slices of bread a nice, delicate 
brown, and spread the beef over the slices of toast. If the dried beef 
is very salt, turn off the hot water after standing a few minutes; then 
add a little more to prepare it. 

FILLET OF BEEF — This is the underside of the loin; take 
out the bones. After trimming and larding, put into a pan, in the 
bottom of which are some small pieces of beef suet; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper; add 1 cup of water. Bake in hot oven 30 minutes; 
baste often with hot water. 

FRIZZLED BEEF— Take 2 cups of sliced dried beef, i cup of 
butter, 6 cups of sweet milk, 6 even teaspoons of flour, | teaspoon of 
pepper, and 12 small slices of bread. Brown the butter slightly, add 
the dried beef and let it cook until it curls at the edges; stir in the 
flour dry, add the milk and pepper, stirring constantly until it boils; 
turn it over the bread and serve. 

BEEF HEART — Cut open the heart, rub well outside and in 
with salt; maKe a nice dressing the same as for chicken, stuff the 
heart and sew it together. Roll a nice round steak around it and tie; 
season well with pepper and salt. Then put a plate in the bottom of 
a kettle, put in the heart, cover with water, and cook until tender. 
When about done, take it out and put into a dripping-pan, pour over 
the juice in which it was cooked, and place it in the oven to brown. 
Make a nice gravy to go with it. Excellent. 

HUNTERS' BEEF— Take 25 lbs. of round of beef, 3 oz. of salt- 
petre, 3 oz. of the coarsest brown sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 nutmeg, ^ 
oz. of allspice, 3 handfuls of common salt — all in the finest powder. 
Take the bones from about 25 lbs. of a round of beef, and let it hang 
for 2 or 3 days. Then rub the above ingredients well into it every 
day for 2 or 3 weeks, turning it every morning. When ready to 
be dressed, dip it into cold water to take off the loose spice, bind 
it up tightly with a wide tape and put it into a pan with a crust of 
flour and water; set it in the oven and bake it six hours. When it is 
cold, take off the paste and tape, glaze it and garnish it with savory 
jelly. The gravy is very fine, 'and add,-; greatly to the flavor of soups, 
hashes, etc. It keeps good for some time. 



130 BEEF 

BEEF KIDNEYS.— Cut the kidneys in 2 slices, lengthwise; soak 
an hour in salted water, then wipe dry; dip them in a beaten egg, 
roll in cracker dust, and broil over a clear fire. 

Kidneys may be stewed until tender in a very little water, and 
seasoned; then thicken the broth, and serve. 

STUFFED LIVER.— Scald slices of liver in boiling water with a 
little salt; make dressing as for poultry; put a layer of thin slices of 
salt pork on the bottom of a deep baking-dish or the short=handled 
frying=pan; then spread half the liver on the pork and place the 
dressing on it. Cover the dressing with the remaining half of the 
liver, cover with a pan or plate, and bake an hour. 

DEVILED LIVER— Chop very fine 3 lbs. of liver and ^ lb. of 
salt pork, both uncooked. Then mix |- pint of bread crumbs, 3 ta- 
blespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of pepper, ^ teaspoon cayenne, and ^ 
teaspoon of mace and cloves; add and mix well with the chopped 
liver and pork; put it in a covered sauce-pan, and set that in a sauce- 
pan of cold water. Cover the sauce- pan and place on the fire to boil 
2 hours. Take out the mold, uncover, and let it stand in an open 
oven to let the steam escape. This is a cold dish. 

BEEF A LA MODE — Cut the bone from a round of beef, and 
fill the space with bread and butter dressing, or a dressing made with 
onions and spiced with herbs. Put a bandage around it to keep it in 
shape, and put it in a pot just large enough to hold it; add about a 
pint of water, cover tightly, and bake 3 hours. Good either hot or 
cold. 

MOCK DUCK. — Take a good piece of upper round steak, make a 
dressing as for turkey, and spread it over the steak; roll it up and 
wind it with a string* Bake it as you would roast beef, but not so 
long. It can be served hot, or allowed to cool with the string around 
it, when it can be cut in thin slices for luncheon or tea. If served 
cold, garnish handsomely with sliced lemon and green parsley. 

Mock Duck No. 2.— Make a dressing the same as for turkey, put it 
in a round of beefsteak which has been salted and peppered, and 
sew it np; then roast it with 2 or 3 slices of salt pork on top, and 
baste it frequently. It will be equal to duck. 

BEEF OMELET — Chop finely 1 pound of raw beef; roll 3 
crackers to a powder, and mix with them h teaspoon of baking powder; 
beat well 2 eggs, and then mix all together with a seasoning of salt, 
pepper and powdered herbs; put a piece of butter the size of an egg 
in a pudding==dish, let it just melt, then place the mixture in a cake 



BEEF 131 

in the dish, flatten down into a flat cake in the bottom of the pud- 
ding^dish, and bake | hour. Take it up on a hot platter, spread the 
top with soft butter, and send to the table hot. Good for supper or 
breakfast in cold weather. For breakfast, serve hot corn=meal muf- 
fins with the omelet. 

BEEF POT PIE — A good dinner which combines the needed 
variety of foods in 1 dish, is a beef or mutton stew. Two pounds of 
cheap meat, neck of mutton, shin or round of beef, is enough for 4 to 
6 people. Cut the meat in inch pieces, season with salt and pepper, 
and roll in flour. Put the bones in cold water and heat slowly; when 
boiling, put in the meat, already browned in a frying-pan, with a lit- 
tle hot fat. Add 1 or 2 small onions sliced and fried with the meat, 
if liked; a stalk of celery, or ^ cup of strained tomato, also gives a 
nice flavor. Simmer an hour, then add a medium=sized carrot and 
turnip, cleaned and cut in ^ inch squares; cook 2 hours, or till the 
meat is tender; ^ hour before serving, put in 6 potatoes already 
pared, quartered and parboiled to draw out their strong juice. Taste 
and season more if liked, and skim all fat from the top; 10 minutes 
before dinner time, put in the dumpling and cook without removing 
the cover. The Dumplings : 1 pint of flour, I teaspoon of salt, 2 tea- 
spoons baking powder, sifted together and mixed into a soft dough 
with 1 cup more or less of milk or water. Drop from the tip of the 
spoon into the boiling stew, cover closely, and in 10 minutes take up 
on a hot platter or place around the platter on which the stew is 
served. 

POT=ROAST OF BEEF — Take 5 or 6 pounds of the round of 
beef, remove the bone, put slices of suet in the bottom of a deep pot, 
and fry out the fat; leave the bits of suet in the bottom of the kettle, 
put in the beef in a round shape, and add a pint of hot water; put on 
the stove where it will cook slowly. Cover well after sprinkling on a 
little salt, pepper, and sweet herbs, if liked. It should cook 2 or 3 
hours, and at last uncover it and rapidly cook out all the water, until 
it begins to fry in the bottom of the kettle; when it is nicely 
browned on the bottom, take up on a platter, the browned side up, 
and pour over it any fat left in the pot. Good, warm or cold. Cut 
in thin slices it makes nice sandwiches. 

PRESSED BEEF — Take any kind of beef, stew it till the bones 
fall out, pick it over carefully, removing all gristle, and chop finely. 
Season to taste with pepper and salt, and add any herbs or spices de- 
sired. Put it in a brick^shaped pan with a flaring top, put another 
pan on top, and weight with flatnrons or other convenient weight 




132 BEEF 

When cold, serve in slices. Thus prepared, cheap and tough pieces 
of meat may be made delicious. 

ROAST BEEF.— The best pieces for 
roasting are the first and second cut of the 
sirloin. The next to be preferred are the 
first cut of the rib and the back of the 
rump. Dredge with flour, salt, and pep- 
per, place in dripping-pan with very little sirloin. 

water; baste frequently. If a large -piece 

of beef (10 or 12 pounds) allow 15 minutes to every pound; a small 
piece, 10 minutes to every pound. Make a gravy of the dripping. 
After carefully skimming off all the grease, pour the remainder into 
a sauce^pan, mix a little brown flour carefully so as not to have any 
lumps, and stir into the liquid while boiling; boil 3 minutes and it is 
ready to serve. 

ROAST RIBS OF BEEF — Take a 2 or 3 rib roast, have ribs 
sawed across 3 times at least, with no seasoning of anjj kind as that 
injures the flavor of the meat. Set on bricks in a very hot oven, sear 
over, and when well browned decrease heat by opening the door and 
closing the dampers; then cook slowly for 1 hour if liked rare, or 1^ 
hours if well done. 

ROAST BEEF AND YORKSHIRE PUDDING Into 2 cups 

flour mix 1 teaspoon baking i)owder, and a pinch of salt; add 1 cup 
milk, beat till smooth, and add another cup of milk. Put it in hot 
gem=pans and bake; baste it with beef drippings. Serve it with the 
roast beef. The batter is often poured under the beef to bake, 
but this is a better way. 

SPICED BEEF.— Boil 2 or 3 pounds of fat beef slowly until the 
bones will easily separate from the meat; then take it out, take out 
all the bones, and chop the meat (fat and lean together) while hot; 
season with salt, white pepper and sifted sweet herbs — sage, thyme, 
parsley, or any best liked. Mix all thoroughly and put in a brick- 
shaped bread pan to become cold for the next day. The broth can 
be used for a soup the next day. Serve the spiced meat, cut in 
slices, with potatoes, baked, or cooked in any way liked. 

BOILED TONGUE — If the tongue is salted, soak over night in 
plenty of cold water; the next morning put it over the fire with 
enough cold water to cover it, and boil slowly 3 or 4 hours, according 
to the size; skin the tongue while hot and set away to cool. When 
cold, cut in very thin slices, excepting the extreme tip, which can be 



I 



BEEF 133 

used for making side dishes. If the tongue is fresh, then soak it 
over night in cold water in which is a handful of salt; the next morn- 
ing put it over the fire and cook slowly, and proceed in the same 
manner as with salted tongue. 

TRIPE — Tripe is usually sold already boiled and pickled, and is 
a good food if cider vinegar is used for a pickle; if any of the miner- 
al acids are used, it will unfavorably affect the digestion. After 
coming from the market, it is sometimes broiled, spread with butter, 
and served with baked potatoes. It can be put on a platter and set 
on the grate in the oven until hot and then spread with butter; again, 
it can be fried brown in the frying-pan with a little butter, and sea- 
soned with any of the piquant meat sauces. It may also be cut in 
strips, soaked 10 or 12 hours in salt and vinegar, wiped dry, and fried 
in hot lard. It can be stewed also. 

Fricasseed Tripe — Cut in narrow strips 1 lb. of tri^oe and add to it 
1 cu^D of milk, or part water; put in a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with 1 tablespoon of 
flour, stirred with a little cold milk or water. Let it simmer gently 
for I hour, and serve hot. It may be improved by a bunch of parsley 
cut small and put with it. 

BEEFSTEAK. — Broiled Steak. — Grease the gridiron with suet. 
Have it hot. Put on the steak over hot coals. In a moment, 
when the steak is colored, turn it over. Watch and turn frequently. 
Do not let out the juice by sticking a fork in it. Remove to a hot 
platter. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper and butter well. Set plat- 
ter into oven a few minutes, to let butter soak well in. Serve hot. 
The juice of a good steak is inside of it — not a gravy in the dish. 

Broiled Chopped Beefsteak (called Salisbury steak).— Take 2 lbs. of 
raw beefsteak and chop fine in a chopping bowl; then press together 
in flat pieces, each one large enough for 1 person, and broil over a 
bed of coals. This is nice for an invalid or person with poor teeth, 
especially if tender steak cannot be had. 

Beefsteak and Oysters. — Broil the steak the usual way. Put 1 qt. 
of oysters with very little of the liquor into a stew^jpan upon the fire; 
when it comes to a boil, take off the scum that may rise, stir in 3 
ounces of butter mixed with a tablespoon of sifted flour; let it boil 
one minute until it thickens; pour it over the steak and serve hot. 

Beefsteak Pie. — Put about 2 pounds of steak (round steak will an- 
swer) into a sauce=pan with a gill of water; put on the cover and sim- 
mer for an hour; then cut the steak into small pieces about h inch 
square; put them into a white pudding^dish, thicken the juice with a 



134 BEEF 

tablespoon of corn=starch, season with salt, pepper, and herbs, also 
with garlic or onion if liked, and pour it over the meat; then cover 
with a rich pie crust and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown. 
This is good to serve at luncheons. A less expensive pie can be 
made by covering the meat with a nice baking-powder biscuit dough. 
Bake this also until it is nicely browned. Time, about If hours. 

Beefsteak, Rolled. — Put a slice of round steak on the meat=board, 
sprinkle on a little salt and pepper, and put on bits of butter, with a 
little chopped onion if liked, and a little sifted sage; spread over it 
mashed potatoes, or sliced raw potatoes, and roll it up; wind with a 
string and fasten the ends with skewers; put in a baking^pan with a 
pint of water and bake slowly an hour; baste often. 

Beefsteak Smothered in Onions. — Cut 6 onions very fine, put them in 
a sauce=pan with 2 cups hot water, 2 oz. butter, some pepper, salt, 
and dredge in flour; let stew until the onions are quite soft. Have 
the steak broiled, put it into the sauce=pan with the onions, let sim- 
mer 5 or 10 minutes; send to the table very hot. 

Hamburg Steak. — Lay your beefsteak on the meat=board, salt and 
pepper it as required; peel and slice a few onions and cover the 
steak. Then with chopping-knife chop all together until like hash, 
and fry in hot fat, either in balls like sausage, or plain. Leave out 
the onions unless you know everyone at the table likes them. This 
is delicious. 

MINCED BEEF. 
2 cups of cold minced beef. 1 teacup of gravy. < 

1 shallot, or small onion. 1 tablespoon of Chutnee sauce. 

1 bunch of parsley. Butter the size of an egg. 

Put the butter in a sauce^pan, slice and fry the onion until a yel- 
lowish brown, add the gravy, then the chopped parsley; stir in the 
chutnee, add the beef, and let it get hot, but do not re=cook. Serve 
it on a platter garnished with parsley and fried bread. Time, 20 to 
30 minutes. 

BOILED DINNER — Boil the corn^beef early in the day; when 
tender, tak? it out and skim the fat ofp the meat liquor; then, about 1 
hour before dinner, put into the boiling meat liquor the carrots first, 
having them washed and scraped; a little later put in the cabbage 
which has been quartered, and the turnips which have been pared 
and sliced; last, about \ hour before dinner, put in the potatoes 
(peeled) and a crook=neck squash, peeled and sliced. Boil the beets 
by themselves. When done, take up the vegetables, put the cabbage 
in a colander and press out the water, cut up the carrots, and serve 



VEAL 135 

the meat and vegetables separately. Try to serve them as attractive- 
ly as possible. This is better than boiling meat and vegetables 
together. 

MOCK SAUSAGE — Take 1 lb. of cold beef and chop fine; then 
take 3 tablespoons of chopped or mashed potatoes, 1 egg, 1 table- 
spoon of flour, and a small slice of bread; moisten the bread with 
milk or water, stir all together, add salt, pepper, and a little sage, or 
chop an onion in. Make in small balls, and shape like slices of sau- 
sage. Fry in a little hot fat like potato balls, and when brown on 
one side, turn over and brown the other. 

SAUSAGE ROLL — Make a dough as for baking powder biscuit; 
roll out and cut in large rounds with a large biscuit cutter; lay fine 
sausage meat on half of each piece, turn the other half over and 
pinch together; lay close together in a baking=tin or dripping-pan, 
and bake ^ hour. These are good either hot or cold. 

PRESERVING MEAT — In cold weather when meat is plentiful, 
it can be preserved for a long time by treating it in the following 
manner: Take large pieces of the fore=quarter of beef (the cheap 
pieces of the neck and shoulders); boil it slowly in just water enough 
to cover, until it is tender; add a little salt for the last hour; let it 
stand until quite cold, then mince it finely; season well with pepper, 
and last, pack tightly in a stone jar, put a few whole cloves on the 
top, then pour over it hot, melted beef suet. When this gets cold, 
cover the jar with a cloth, then with the cover, and store in a cool 
room. This is ready to use for mince pies, and for slicing to put in 
a potato pie, or it can be cut in slices and served cold with hot baked 
potatoes, for breakfast. • 



VEAL 

Veal should be thoroughly cooked, for cases are not uncommon 
of illness arising from eating under-done veal. The flesh is rather 
indigestible. No meat is more useful for making stews and gravies 
than veal. It needs much seasoning as it is deficient in flavor, and 
while it is richer in gelatine than beef, it has less nitrogen. It con- 
tains the least heat producing elements of any meat, and is best eaten 
with bacon and jelly, rice or potatoes, etc., which supply the elements 
it lacks. 

Old Veal. — This is most delicious meat and but little known. It 
is a calf kept yarded near the house, fed liberally with skimmed 



136 VEAL 

milk, vegetables of all kinds, and fattened to the age of 5 or 6 months 
in this way, then killed in the fall when the vegetables are gone. It 
is dressed and used like beef. 

BREAKFAST VEAL.— Butter a small oval dish very thoroughly, 
and fill with bits of cold, stewed veal, seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
a little nutmeg; put in alternately with layers of bread crumbs; 
moisten with gravy, put bits of butter over the top, and bake. When 
it is brown, turn out of the dish on a hot platter and garnish with 
parsley. If not too moist, it will keep its form when turned out. 
Time to bake, 20 to 30 minutes, 

VEAL, CREAMED — Chop cold veal, or cut in small, thin slices, 
leaving out the stringy part for your stock kettle. If you have a 
pint of meat, it is enough for a handsome dish. Put 1 teacup of rich 
milk into the teakettle pail, and, when hot, add 1 tablespoon of flour 
and 1 of butter, rubbed together. Let it boil up, and then stir in 
the veal, seasoned with pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, and a slice of 
onion. When hot, pour on a platter edged with leaves of puff 
pastry, and lay a few on the top of the mince. The leaves can be 
made of remiiants of pastry when you are making pies. 

CALF'S BRAINS. — Remove all the fibrous membrane which 
covers them, and throw into a pint of cold water containing ^ tea- 
spoon salt and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Boil 3 minutes, and plunge into 
cold water. When cold, cut into small pieces, season with salt and 
pepper; egg and bread-crumb, and fry in a little hot drippings. They 
may be prepared early in the day if for dinner, or the night before if 
for breakfast, and they may be served plain or with tomato sauce. 

VEAL CUTLETS, BREADED.— 

Egg and bread=crumb the cutlets, 

and fry them in smoking hot fat, 

turning them until well done — time 4 

to 6 minutes. Then take up and 

pour over them a good brown gravy; 

serve hot. They may be garnished 7eal outlet. 

with parsley. 

CALF'S LIVER, FRIED— Cut the liver in thin slices, pour hot 
water over, to blanch it; let stand in the water while you fry the fat 
from ^ dozen slices of breakfast bacon; take out the bacon and cut a 
large onion in slices and fry brown; then fry the liver, after drying 
it in a cloth; after the liver is brown on both sides, sprinkle over it a 
little salt and a teaspoon of curry i^owder; cover and stew 20 min- 
utes. 




VEAL 137 

CALF'S LIVER STEWED.— Wash and lard a calf's liver; chop 
1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery, and 1 onion, and place them in 
the bottom of a deep baking^pan; place the liver on toio, sprinkle salt 
and pepper over the whole, and pour on a pint of boiling water; 
cover the pan, and place in a moderate oven for 2 hours; when 
done, remove the liver, put a teaspoon of butter into a frying-pan, 
and place over the fire to heat; add the liquor strained from the veg- 
etables, and a little flour, stir until it begins to boil, then add a table- 
spoon of Worcestershire sauce; pour over the liver and serve at once. 

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.— Bone the joint, make a deep in- 
cision between the fillet and saddle, and fill with dressing made as 
for poultry; bind the joint in round form and fasten with skewers 
and twine, and roast slowly, allowing about 20 minutes to the pound. 
Baste well with butter, dredge over a little flour, and butter well; 
make gravy of drippings, with the juice of a lemon added; garnish 
the platter on which the meat is served with slices of lemon and 
parsley. 

VEAL LOAF — Chop 3-| lbs. of lean and fat raw veal very fine, 
with 1 slice of salt pork; add 6 crackers rolled fine, butter the size of 
an egg, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of pepper and 1 of sage; mix this 
thoroughly and pack it tightly in a deep, square tin; sprinkle over 
the top a little melted butter and fine cracker crumbs. Cover it with 
another tin and bake 2 hours; uncover and brown the top. Serve 
cold in thin slices. This is very nice for a picnic lunch. 

VEAL MAYONNAISE.— Cut pieces of cold veal into bits, not as 
small as dice; put in an equal quantity of celery, cut in small pieces; 
mix thoroughly, and pour over it a little of the dressing, reserving 
the rest to put over the top when it is arranged in the dish; garnish 
with lettuce leaves, and hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Lettuce can 
be substituted for celery. 

MOLDED VEAL — Cut thin slices of cold roasted veal, put them 
in the bottom of a pan, season with pepper, salt, and chopped celery; 
add a layer of hard=boiled eggs sliced thin, then a layer of thinly- 
sliced, cold boiled ham, and in this way fill the pan. Pour over it 
enough stock to cover the meat, and bake in the oven 1 hour. Let it 
stand until cold, and serve in thin slices. 

VEAL POT=PIE.— Take 2 or 3 pounds of fat veal, cut it in small 
pieces, and put over the fire in cold water. When it comes to the 
boiling point, skim well, then cook slowly about an hour; do not boil 
rapidly, as that tends to make the meat hard. At the end of an hour 



138 VEAL 

sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a sliced onion if liked by all, 
and a handful of washed rice to thicken it a little. Pare and slice 
enough potatoes for the family, and add to the stew; when the broth 
boils again, after putting in the potatoes, add dumplings made of 
baking=powder biscuit dough, or crust made from recipe for pot-pie 
crust, and boil | hour. 

POT^PIE CRUST — One pint sour milk, 1 teacup sour cream, 1 
teaspoon soda; mix hard like bread, let it stand 1 hour to rise; 
never roll nor cut, but nip it off in pieces the size you want, let boil 
30 minutes, without lifting the lid, and you will always have them 
like a puff. 

VEAL=AND=HAM PIE — Cut the veal into very small pieces and 
put a layer on the bottom of a pudding^dish; sprinkle over it a sea- 
soning of salt, pepper and powdered herbs (sage, thyme, summer 
savory, etc.), then lay on thin slices of cold boiled ham, fat and lean 
together, then another layer of veal, and so proceed to fill the dish; 
pour in enough cold stock or water to cover the meat, having sliced 
ham on the top; cover the top with a thick puff paste, and bake an 
hour in a hot oven. Put a dish of hot water in the oven to prevent 
scorching the crust. When this is cold, it should be a firm jelly 
inside. 

"It's a veal=and'ham pie," said Mr, Boflan. " Is it indeed, sir? And it would 
be hard, sir, to name the pie that is a better pie than a weel and hammer," said 
Mr. Wegg. 

ROAST VEAL PIE — Cut cold roast veal into slices, with the 
stuffing, and lay them in a deep dish, adding pepper and salt; dredge 
lightly with flour, and put in the gravy that was left, with a little 
hot water added to it; a dish that holds 3 pints will require 1 cup of 
gravy. Cover the top of the pie with a crust made as follows: Crusf. 
■ — One pint of flour with 2 teaspoons of baking=powder sifted through 
it; add a piece of butter as large as f an egg, rubbing it into the 
flour with the hand. Wet with some sweet milk, enough to make a 
dough as soft as you can handle it. Different qualities of flour differ 
in the quantity of wetting required. Bake till brown — about 1 hour. 

SCALLOPED VEAL.— Mince cold veal very fine. Put a layer 
in the bottom of a buttered pudding-dish, season with peiDper, salt 
and a very little nutmeg; then put in a thin layer of fine cracker 
crumbs, then another layer of meat, and so on until the dish is full. 
Wet with good broth ; if you have no broth, make a little by boiling 
the bones and trimmings of your veal. Put over the top a layer of 
cracker crumbs, wet into a paste with a little milk, and mixed with a 



VEAL 139 

beaten egg. If your oven is not very slow, it is best to cover the dish 
with a pan for the first | hour, and then let it brown 10 minutes 
after you uncover it. Time, about 1^ hours. 

SPICED VEAL. 

3 lbs. veal cut fine. 3 Boston crackers rolled fine. 

1 large slice fat pork. ^ teacup of catsup. 

3 eggs beaten well. 1 lemon, rind and juice. 

The salt and pepper should be mixed with the crackers; mix all, 
moisten with water and butter. Bake 2 hours. 

SMOTHERED VEAL — Place in the bottom of a baking^^pan 3 
or 4 potatoes sliced, 1 small onion sliced, 2 slices of salt pork cut into 
strips; season with salt, pepper and sage; place over this 3 or 4 
pounds of veal from the breast, or any other part desired; cover the 
meat with sliced potatoes, onion and other seasoning; sprinkle over 
all a tablespoon of flour, add a pint of water, cover the pan with 
another one, and place in the oven and cook 1| hours, adding 
water if it cooks dry. 

VEAL STEW. — Cut up 2 pounds of veal, and after having wash- 
ed it carefully, put it in the dinner^pot; add 3 pints of water, put in 1 
onion, pepper and salt, and let it stew an hour; then add sliced 
potatoes, and take a crust made with a pint of flour, a cup of sour 
milk, and ^ a teaspoon of soda sifted through the flour, a pinch of 
saltj cut up in squares, dust a little flour Over them, lay them in on 
top, cover closely and cook f an hour. 

VEAL TOAST. — One cup of chopped veal, 1 cup of hot water, 
a piece of butter as large as a butternut, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ^ tea- 
spoon of pepper. Have ready on a platter, slices of bread toasted 
brown, and buttered; if the crusts are hard, dip the edges in hot wa- 
ter. Heat the minced veal thoroughly hot, pour it on the toast, and 
serve at once. 

SWEETBREADS. — At once on coming from the butcher (and 
that should be as soon as possible after the animal is killed) sweet- 
breads should be soaked 1 or 2 hours in cold water, and then cooked 
about 20 minutes in boiling water containing 1 teaspoon each of salt 
and lemon juice; then plunge them into cold water to harden them; 
take out and put into a towel to drain out all the water, and remove 
the pipes and membranes. They may then be cut into thin slices 
and broiled; or egged and bread^crumbed and fried in hot fat; or 
sauted; or stewed in a very little water, and seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and butter. Serve with any of the meat sauces best liked by the 
individual. 



140 MUTTON AND LAMB 

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.— After preparing 2 pairs of 
sweetbreads as above, cut them into dice, and also cut up and add ^ 
box of mushrooms. Into a sauce=pan put 1 large tablespoon of but- 
ter, and when it bubbles, sxDrinkle in 1 tablespoon of flour; cook 
well and add | cup cream or soup stock; heat and add the sweet- 
breads and mushrooms; when well heated, lift from the fire and add 
yolks of 2 eggs well beaten; form into croquettes when cool, then egg 
and bread=crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

CREAMED SWEETBREADS Prepare as above, and then with 

a silver knife pick them in pieces; then put 1 tablespoon butter in the 
sauce=pan; melt without browning it, add 1 tablespoon flour, stir till 
smooth; add 1 cup cream and the sweetbreads, stir till it thickens; 
lift from the stove, season with salt and pepjaer and serve. Time, 20 
to 30 minutes. 

Sweetbreads consist of the Thymus Gland found in the neck of veal and lamb. 
It decreases in size and flavor as the animal grows older. The glands are found in 
the back part of the throat and in the breast. There should always be 2 of them, 
although they are sometimes sold separately. The heart sweetbread is so called 
because it lies nearest the heart. It is the lower one and is round in shape. The 
throat sweetbread is the upper one, and is long and narrow. They are a great del- 
icacy (those of the calf are most esteemed) and if properly prepared make a fine 
dish to tempt the appetite of the invalid, although opinions differ somewhat as to 
their digestibility. The pancreatic gland of the bullock (that is, the gland near the 
stomach which secretes the pancreatic juice which aids in digesting the food) is 
sometimes sold as sweetbreads, but it is inferior in quality to the thymus gland of 
young animals and requires long and careful washing and cooking. 



MUTTON AND LAMB. 

Within the limits of wholesomeness, mutton varies immensely in 
quality and flavor. It is often thought more digestible than beef and 
is therefore j^rescribed for invalids. All young meat is less digestible 
and is also less nourishing than fulbgrown, but lamb has a better re- 
pute in this respect than veal. Although mutton may be served rare, 
lamb should be thoroughly cooked always. The strong flavor of mut- 
ton, which is disagreeable to many, comes from the penetration 
through the skin of the oil from the wool; the thin outside skin 
should be taken off before cooking the meat. Mutton should always 
be served on hot plates in the winter, never allowing any cold mutton 
tallow to appear on the edges and disfigure the dish. 

BOILED MUTTON.— Cut off the superfluous fat from a breast of 
mutton, remove as much of the bone as will bring it into shape for 
the kettle, add water to only half cover it, and cover the kettle tight- 
ly; let it boil gently for an hour, then turn it in the kettle, and sea- 



MUTTON AND LAMB 141 

son with salt, pepper and herbs if liked. Add a little more water if 
needed, and boil for another hour; then serve with caper sauce. 

A mutton ham can be boiled in the above manner with another 
half hour's time. A leg of lamb also can be cooked in this way in 
about 1| hours. 

MUTTON CHOPS.— Eemove a portion of the fat and trim them 
into a nice shape; place the gridiron over a bright, clear fire, rub the 
bars with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequent- 
ly turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season 
with pepper and salt. Serve hot on a hot dish. Or they can be bak- 
ed in a dripping-pan in a hot oven, basting frequently; they are very 
nice this way. They can also be fried on a frying=pan, having it very 
hot, and using no other fat than that from the chop. As soon as one 
side is seared (in about 1 minute) turn over on the other; then finish 
the cooking more slowly. Sprinkle salt on each side when almost 
done. 

MUTTON AND RICE.— Mince into dice, pieces of cold mutton 
or lamb; add 1 cup of cold boiled rice to 1 cup of meat; butter the 
sauce=pan thoroughly, pour in a little water, add the mutton and 
rice, and stir until it is hot; then pour in 2 eggs slightly beaten, and 
stir until the eggs are cooked. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 

MUTTON PATTIES — Mince cold mutton, fat and lean together, 
and season with salt and pepper; if the mutton is lean, add a piece 
of butter and warm all together in a sauce=pan, with a little water to 
make it moist; put it in patty^pans, and cover the top with mashed 
potatoes; put a bit of butter in a little dent in the center and bake in 
the oven to a delicate brown — about 10 or 15 minutes, Serve hot 
in the patty^pans. 

MUTTON PIES — Mince coarsely, cold mutton, fat and lean 
together, and put in the bottom of a pudding^dish. Sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, with a little butter if the mutton is not fat, then 
cover deeply with hot mashed potatoes; set in the oven to brown a 
little, and to let the pudding=dish get thoroughly hot — about 10 or 15 
minutes. Serve with hot plates. 

Warming cold minced meats, as a pie with mashed potatoes, is one of the best 
ways of re=warming any kind of fish or cold meat — the moct appe+.izing and the 
most economical. 

MUTTON OR LAMB PIE.— Out finely, bits of raw mutton or 
lamb; put to stew in just water enough to cover, and cook slowly 
until the bones, if there are any, will separate from the meat. Put 
them in a pudding disli, season and thicken the gravy, and pour over 



142 MUTTON AND LAMB 

the meat in the baking-dish. Make a nice baking= powder biscuit 
dough, and cover the pie; bake until the crust is a golden brown. 

MUTTON RECHAUFFE — Slice an onion and fry it brown in 
the pan, with a little good butter; then put in a pint of good stock, 
or water, if you have no stock, and let it come to boiling. Thicken 
with a teaspoon of corn-starch wet in a little water. When it has 
boiled, strain out the onion, and add salt and pepper to taste. Have 
cold sliced mutton on a hot platter; pour the hot sauce over it, and 
send to the breakfast table with hot plates. Time, 20 to 30 minutes, 

SCRAMBLED MUTTON.— Take 2 cups of cold chopped mutton 
or lamb, 2 tablespoons of hot water, a piece of butter the size of an 
English walnut. When the meat is hot, break into it 3 eggs and 
cook until the eggs begin to stiffen, stirring constantly. Season 
with pepper and salt. Time, 10 to 20 minutes. 

IRISH STEW — This is a nice and economical dish, and can be 
made from any kind of meat, the best being the best end of the neck 
of mutton. Remove nearly all the fat from 2 lbs. of meat, and cut it 
into chops. Peel and slice 3 lbs. potatoes, and also slice 1^ pounds 
onions. Put a layer of potatoes in the kettle, then a layer of onions, 
then meat; pepper and salt it well, and so put in all the materials in 
layers. Add 1 or 2 cups water, cover closely, and let it stew {not 
boil) 2 or 3 hours. 

SCOTCH STEW. — Cut 2 pounds of fresh mutton into small 
pieces; put them into a stew-pan with 3 quarts of cold water and a 
tablespoon of salt; set it upon the fire, and cook very slowly, letting 
it simmer, and keeping it well skimmed. After it has simmered an 
hour, add a large carrot, 2 turnips, 2 large onions, all cut in pieces, 
and 2 small heads of cabbage. Let the whole simmer until tender, 
1 to 1^ hours, and serve it with the various ingredients. 

MUTTON AND TOMATOES— Out cold roast mutton in thin 
slices, fat and lean together; put it on a hot platter, and pour over it 
5 or 6 tomatoes, stewed, and seasoned with salt, pepper, a bay leaf, a 
little pulverized sage, and a bit of onion, if liked. If the mutton is 
lean, add a piece of butter the size of an egg to the tomatoes. There 
should not be much juice of the tomatoes, and the excess should be 
poured off before seasoning. Good for breakfast with baked potatoes 
and toast 

BOILED SHEEP'S TONGUES. -Boil ^ doz. tongues until ten- 
der, in water which is salted and contains the juice of -^ a lemon 
Serve cold. Sauce Tartare is excellent to serve with them. Time to 
boil 2 or 3 hours, slowly. 



MUTTON AND LAMB 143 

ESCALLOPED LAMB.— Chop coarsely, cold lamb, either baked 
or boiled, and put a layer in a pudding^dish with a sprinkle of salt 
and pepper, and little bits of butter, then a layer of bread crumbs, 
and thus fill the dish, having a layer of crumbs on the top; fill the 
dish with hot water up to the top layer of crumbs, and bake until the 
crumbs are browned — about 1 hour. 

LAMB'S LIVER, CURRIED.—Cut it in convenient slices to 
serve, soak in salted water for 5 minutes, while an onion is frying in 
salt pork fat; take the liver from the water, dry in a cloth, then put 
it into a pan and fry brown on both sides. Have the fat hot, and fry 
quickly. When brown, add a little water or stock, dust with salt and 
a little curry powder, cover, and simmer 10 minutes. 

LAMB, GRILLED — Take a cold shoulder of lamb, and score 
the meat deeply at | inch distances; prepare a teaspoon of salt, 1 of 
white pepper, a saltspoon of cayenne, a trifle of onion juice, and the 
strained juice of a lemon; rub this into the meat at night. In the 
morning, put it on a gridiron over a clear, coal fire, and thoroughly 
heat through ; put on a hot platter and spread with softened butter. 
Send to the table with hot plates. 

KID — This is cooked in the various ways given for lamb, and is 
much like lamb after being cooked. 

SHEEP'S BRAINS. — Kemove the skin and blood vessels and 
put them in warm water for 2 hours; then put them in boiling water, 
containing a little salt and vinegar, and leave until firm; then take 
out and put in very cold water. Then drain, dry, brush with oil, and 
roll in crumbs, well seasoned with pepper and salt. Put slices of 
bacon on them, and bake in a well heated oven, basting frequently. 
When nicely browned, take up, put the slices of bacon on toast, and 
lay the brains on the bacon. Serve with tomato, Tartare, or some 
acid sauce. 

MEAT ROLY POLY. 

4 cups flour. 1 teacup milk. 

2 teaspoons baking-powder. 1 teaspoon salt. 

Do not use any shortening, but mix and roll out ^ inch thick, 
and spread minced mutton, Yeal or chicken on it. Have the meat 
free from gristle, and season it with pepper and salt. Tlien roll the 
crust over and over, and put it on a buttered plate, and steam in the 
steamer |- hour. Serve for breakfast or lunch, giving a slice to each 
person, with gravy served with it. 



144 PORK 

PORK. 

Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the 
greatest care. If it is killed and the flesh eaten when in an un- 
healthy condition, those who eat it will probably pay dearly for their 
indulgence. Care should be taken that pork is thoroughly cooked, 
as it is most indigestible when under-dressed. Uncooked or under= 
cooked pork should on no account be eaten. Exposure to the tem- 
perature of boiling water effectually kills the trichina, but obviously 
every part of the meat, inside and out, must be fully heated to 
destroy all the trichina, and there is no safety without that. 

To freshen salt pork or ham, after cutting in slices, soak it for a 
few hours, or over night, in milk and water, or in sour milk, which is 
quite as good; afterv/ards rinse it until the water is clear, before 
frying, and it will be as palatable as salt pork can be made. 

BAKED HAM — Cover the ham with cold water (after having 
thoroughly cleaned it) and simmer gently just long enough to loosen 
the skin, so that it can be easily taken ofp — in 2 or 3 hours, if the 
ham is large. After skinning, place it in a dripping-pan in the oven, 
and pour over it a teacup of vinegar, and 1 of water; put a little 
mustard in the v/ater, and baste the ham with this while baking 
slowly for an hour; then cover the ham all over thickly with sugar, 
in which is mixed a tablespoon of flour, and bake slowly another 
hour wUhoui hasUng. This gives a nice, brown, glazed crust; when 
it has partly cooled, turn a flat dish on the pot, and put a weight on 
it, to get thoroughly cold. This latter process insures nice, smooth 
slices when cut. The juice of a lemon may be substituted for the 
vinegar, if preferred. 

HAM BALLS.— With ^ cup of bread crumbs mix 2 well=beaten 
eggs and some finely=chopped ham; season with pepper and a very 
little salt; make into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

BOILED HAM.— To boil a ham it must first be thoroughly 
washed and scraped in warm water, containing a little baking-soda; 
'ihen rinse in cold water, put it over the fire, skin side upward in the 
kettle, with water enough to completely cover it; let it slowly simmer 
3 or 4 hours, according to the size ; if it cooks rapidly, it will break in 
pieces. When done, take it from the kettle and remove the skin 
while hot, leaving on all the fat; stick cloves all over the fat part, and 
put it into the oven, to brown a little. It should be entirely cold be- 
fore it is cut. Both lean and fat should be served in carving, as 
many persons like the latter best. Mustard, spiced vinegar, catsup, 
or pickles, are used as ©oiad<iTr!'^r+<= with this. 



POKK 145 

BROILED HAM.— Ham is better broiled than fried. Slice it 
thin, and broil the slices on a gridiron, and when done on both sides, 
place on a platter with a fried egg on each slice. It should be broil- 
ed over bright, hot coals, from 3 to 6 minutes. 

HAM PATTIES.— Take 1 pint of cold boiled ham, finely chop- 
ped; mix it with an equal quantity of bread crumbs wet in milk to 
make a soft batter; put the batter in patty=pans, break a fresh egg 
over each pan, sprinkle the top of each dish thickly with cracker 
crumbs, and bake until brown on the top — about 1^ hours. 

ROAST PIG.— The pig should weigh 12 pounds at least, be- 
fore dressing; the butcher should dress it, leaving on the head and 
feet, and clean thoroughly; the harslet should be sent with the 
pig. First cook the liver and heart by boiling about 20 minutes in a 
little salted water; then chop them finely. Cut a loaf of bread in 
slices and dip in cold water, chop, and add to the harslet; pour over 
it a teacup of melted butter, and 2 welhbeaten eggs; season with pep- 
per, salt, sage, and onions if liked. Mix all together, and fill the pig; 
then sew it together. Bend the front legs under at the knees, and 
the hind legs forward at the gambrel joint; put a stick in the mouth 
to keep it open, wind a cord around to keep the legs in place; put in 
the dripping=pan with a little water, and tin dishes on each side to 
keep it on the knees. Bake until done — 2 to 3 hours. Baste fre- 
quently, using melted butter at first; do not let it burn. Put a 
small red apple or lemon in the mouth before sending to the table, 
and 'serve with baked sour apples. 

ROAST PORK — The loin, chine or spare ribs are best for roast- 
ing. Rub on salt, pepper and flour, and bake in a moderate oven; 
baste often. Time, about 20 minutes to the pound. It is best eaten 
cold. 

BOILED PIGS' FEET— The 2 front feet should be cleaned, 
scraped, and to keep them in shape wrap them tightly in muslin, and 
sew or tie it up; boil 6 or 7 hours moderately; then let them cool, 
take off the wraj)ping and they will be like jelly. They can then be 
split, rolled in crumbs, and broiled or fried. Some acid sauce should 
be served with them. 

SPARE=R1BS AND CHINES — These are usually too fat to cook 
in any other way than by baking or roasting in the oven; in this way 
much of the superfluous fat is drawn from them. Rub them well with 
a little fine salt, flour, pepper and pulverized sage, if liked; put them 
on the rack in the dripping-pan, containing a pint of hot water; the 

10 



146 PORK 

3ven must be hot, but not enough to scorch the meat; baste often. 
The meat should bake about 2 hours, or until it is well browned ; then 
take it up, pour off the fat from the gravy, at one corner of the drip- 
ping-pan, and thicken the remainder with a tablespoon of flour or 
corn^starch; add a little water to make about a pint of gravy. Serve 
with sour baked apples, onions, potatoes and mashed turnips. Shoul- 
der chine of pork, and loin, are cooked in the same manner. 

Pork requires long and thorough cooking, for the texture of the flesh is close; 
fresh spappsribs particularly require it, to extract all the superfluous fat, and it 
should be roasted or baked until of a rich brown color. 

Chine of Poek. — The chine of an animal is the back»bone with the meat 
attached, and griskin (a term obsolete in this country) is used in England to desig- 
nate the backsbone of swine, and particularly that part lying between the shoul- 
ders of the animal. The chine of pork is more often divided into " fore loin," that 
part lying between the shoulders; " spare=ribs," or that part containing the long 
ribs, and "hind^oin," or small part of the spine just above the hams. In Eng- 
land, the hind=loin is sometimes called a chine when the bone is uncut and the two 
sides of the loin are in one piece, corresponding to the "baron of beef," or "saddle 
of mutton." In England these are all roasted, but in this country (the land of 
Yankee cooking=stoves) all divisions of the chine are cooked exactly like the mid- 
dle pieces or spare=ribs. 

PORK CUTLETS. — Take the remains of cold baked pork and cut 
it in nice pieces of the right size to serve; put a little of the cold fat 
in a frying-pan and let it get hot; fry a sliced onion brown, then lay 
in the cutlets, and fry them a light brown in the fat with the onions; 
take them up, and make a gravy with a little corn=starch and cold 
water; season with salt and pepper, and when thickened, pour it over 
the cutlets and serve. 

PORK AND EGGS— Cut 2 or 3 slices of salt pork in dice, and 
fry, often turning it over and over with a fork; then break 5 or 6 
fresh eggs and put them in the pan with the pork; stir all together 
rapidly, and cook until the eggs are set. 

PORK RECHAUFFE {Reheated) .—Cut finely, cold roast pork, 
put a layer of this in the bottom of a pan or pudding=dish and season 
to taste; then a layer of bread crumbs, another layer of cold pork, 
thus fill the dish; have a layer of fine crumbs on the top, but before 
putting them on, pour into the dish enough broth or water to moist- 
en the ingredients; then i^ut crumbs on the top, and bake until brown 
on top, about f to 1 hour. Cold baked or roasted j)ork is more often 
served cold, nicely sliced, and sent to the table with hot baked, or 
mashed potatoes. 

PORK STEAKS.— Take slices of fresh pork that have the fat 
and lean well blended, put on a hot gridiron and broil it thoroughly, 
over a clear coal fire, turning often, and lifting if the dropping fat 



PORK 147 

blazes to scorch the meat; put it on a hot platter, sprinkle with salt, 
and send in with baked potatoes. 

FRIED SALT PORK — This is a most excellent dish when prop- 
erlj^ prepared, for those who are blessed with a good digestion. The 
pork should be of the best quality and " clear fat." Cut the slices 
nearly ^ of an inch thick, take off the rind, put in a hot frying-pan, 
and fry until crisp. Place the pork around the .edge of the platter, 
fry a few eggs for the center, and serve. Salt pork is -sometimes 
dipped in flour or yellow corn-meal before frying, and is excellent. 
After taking up the pork, a nice milk gravy can be made by adding 
corn-starch or flour to milk; pour it into the hot fat from the pork, 
and stir until it is thickened and well blended. This gravy is good 
with new potatoes; also delicious with buck= wheat muffins. 

SOUSE — Clean the ears, feet and gristly part (not the fat) of 
the pig's head; let them soak 12 hours in brine, then take out, scrape 
clean, and soak again in fresh brine. Then wash, put them in cold 
water, and boil gently until the bones loosen from the meat. Then 
put the meat in jars (not earthenware, or the vinegar will act on it) 
and cover with boiling hot spiced vinegar. 

SOUSE PIE — Cut the toes from the pig's feet, and use the legs 
up to the ham. Soak and clean well; cut in pieces, and boil in 
water to cover, with a little salt, until tender. Add a little boiling 
water from time to time as it evaporates, and turn the meat from the 
bottom of the kettle with a skimmer to prevent burning. Take out 
the meat when done, and remove the bones; put the meat in a pan, 
or large pudding^dish, adding a little more salt if necessary; thicken 
the broth with corn^starch and pour over the meat; cover it with 
baking-powder biscuit dough, and bake until the dough is well 
browned. Cheap and good. Time, altogether, 4 or 5 hours. 

SALT PORK DINNER.— Cut enough slices of salt pork to 
cover the bottom of the frying=pan; take off the rind; pour hot water 
over the pork and turn it off immediately; dip each slice in flour, and 
fry it brown on both sides; take it up on a platter and keep warm. 
Pour nearly all the fat into another frying-pan and fill it with sour 
apples already sliced, with the skins on. Sprinkle the apples with a 
little salt, and cover tightly with a deep, white pie=plate; stew until 
the apples are soft. In the meantime add a pint of sweet milk to the 
fat left in the first pan; let it simmer, then thicken with a little flour 
or corn=starch, and send it to the table in a bowl or gravy-boat. 
Serve with new potatoes and sweet=corn. 



148 POULTRY 

PORK WORST. — Cut a pig's head in pieces, and soak, with the 
liver and heart, over night in slightly salted water. The next morn- 
ing wash and put it over the fire to cook slowly, in just water enough 
to cover it. When the bones will separate, take them all out, and 
cut the meat in very small pieces; return to the kettle, add salt, pep- 
per, and any sweet herbs liked; then thicken it to the consistency of 
mush, with flour; fill square baking^pans with it, and let it get cold; 
then slice, dip in flour, and fry in salt pork fat. 

HEAD CHEESE {English Brawn). — The cheeks of pig's heads 
are reserved for salting with the hams and shoulders; the remainder 
is cut in pieces and soaked over night in salted water; the next morn- 
ing wash thoroughly, and put over the fire in a kettle with just water 
enough to cover the meat (the cleansed pig's feet may be added). 
Simmer slowly until the bones will easily separate from the meat, 
then take it up in a pan and pick out every bone; cut the meat in 
small pieces, season to taste with salt, pepjDer, and sifted sage; pour 
over the broth from the kettle, and put it in a cold pantry to harden. 
When thoroughly cold, remove the fat from the top of the pan, cut 
in slices, and serve with hot baked, or mashed potatoes. 

SAUSAGES, TO COOK.— Sausage cakes are usually fried; 
when they are in skins, they should be pricked to prevent them from 
bursting, and they should be turned on all sides to insure thorough 
cooking. Sausages, especially those made of pork, should always be 
v/ell cooked, and should never look red in the center when cut. 
They are best baked, as they are then cooked slowly and are more 
thoroughly browned than when fried. Serve with baked potatoes, or 
mashed potatoes and other vegetables. The large Bologna sausages, 
made of beef mostly, require a long and thorough boiling for 3 or 4 
hours; they are then dried and smoked. They are usually prepared 
and cooked by the butcher, and are eaten cold. The best thing to 
serve with pork sausages is apple-sauce. They garnish a roast 
turkey nicely. 



POULTRY. 

In selecting poultry, choose those which are plump, but not too 
fat. If they are young, they should be firm to the touch. If the 
bone across the breast above the hollow skin is hard to the touch, the 
bird is old; in young ones it is more like gristle. Whitedegged birds 
are given the preference by some, because they look better on the 
table, but bte&k are equally good eating. Dark=fleshed game can be 



POULTRY 149 

eaten rare, but the white^fleshed should always be well done. In 
preparing poultry great care is required not to break the gall-bladder, 
for if it is broken, the gall will leave a bitter taste on every place it 
touches, which cannot be washed off. 

Young poultry has not an excess of fat unless it has been 
" crammed " for that purpose, in which case it should be avoided, as 
that process affects the health of the fowls. 

Slightly Tainted Meat. — Poultry and all meats should be cooked 
immediately if the least sign of taint appears; give it first a thorough 
washing in soda water, then a rinsing in clear water to which a little 
vinegar has been added; then either bake or roast it, as that mode of 
cooking drives away bad odors from meat better than any other. 

Onion. — It is better to leave onions out of all meat dressings, un- 
less you are sure they are liked by all at the table. A rich onion 
sauce can be sent in with them, or boiled- onions served as one veg- 
etable, for those who like them. 

Overcoming the Strong Smel! of Old Fowls. — If old fowls are washed 
in warm soda water, the strong smell will be overcome. 

If a roast fowl cannot be served as soon as it is done, put it 
over a kettle of boiling water and put a dripping-pan over it, which 
will keep it from drying up. 

The Garnishes for Fowls. — These are parsley, water cress, horserad- 
ish, slices of lemon, slices of ham, fried oysters or sausages, and 
forcemeat-balls. 

To Draw a Fowl. — Place the fowl on its back, and make a slit 
lengthwise in the skin of the neck from the body to the head; free 
the neck from the skin, and cut off the neck as close to the body as 
possible; then cut the skin, leaving a flap at least 8 inches long 
hanging to the breast. Loosen the crop and the windpipe, and insert 
the first finger, keeping it close to the inside surface of the body; 
work it round, breaking all the ligaments with which it comes in 
contact, thus loosening the contents of the carcass. Be careful 
not to thrust the finger into the centre, for if the gall-bladder is 
broken, the gall will imi^art a bitter taste to whatever it may touch. 
Turn the bird, slightly enlarge the opening at the vent, insert the 
finger, and loosen the insides from the carcass at that end. Turn the 
bird again, and place it on its back; press the breast with the 
thumbs, and push out the gizzard by the hole at the vent; take hold 
of it and pull steadily, when the whole of the interior should be 
brought away entire. If all the insides are removed, little washing 
will be needed. Wipe it out with a damp cloth, or rinse quickly and 
wipe dry. If the breast bone protrudes too much, put a cloth over 



150 POULTRY 

it and beat it down flat, putting something like a pestle inside to 
pound on. 

To Truss a Fowl. — After stuSing the fowl, sew the skin of the 
neck over the back. Then run a long skewer through the pinion 
and then through the body and out through the other pinion, press- 
ing them close to the body. Also press a skewer through the 
thigh and body and out through the other thigh. Pass a string over 
the projecting ends of the skewers and tie it firmly at the back, to 
keep the bird firmly trussed. The legs can be crossed over the tail 
and firmly tied. The wings and thighs can be tied in place by 
winding a string around the body, if you have no skewers; cut the 
string off carefully when done, so as not to tear the flesh. 

Boned Poultry. — Cut through the skin down the center of the 
back, and raise the flesh carefully on either side, with the point of 
a sharp knife, until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. 
Until a little practice has been gained, it will perhaps be best to 
bone their joints before proceeding further; but after they are once 
detached from it, the whole body may be easily separated from the 
flesh, and taken out entire; only the neck, bones, and the merry = 
thought will then remain to be removed. The fowl thus prepared 
may either (1) be restored to its original form by filling the legs and 
wings with stufiing; the body of the bird, also, should be filled 
with stuffing, and then the skin on the back should be sewn together, 
and the fowl trussed as usual. Or (2) the legs and wings may be 
drawn into the body, and the remaining space be filled with the 
dressing. 

Plain Dressing. — Take slices of stale bread (do not remove the 
crusts) dip it in cold water, and clioj) in the tray; season with 
salt and pepper, and for ^ loaf of bread soften a teacup of butter 
and stir into the bread; add a beaten raw egg and stir that in well. 
Fill the cavity in the fish or meat, but do not crowd it in; sew up, 
or wind the meat with a string, and when done, this will be light 
and crumbly — not pasty, as when made with hot water, nor hard, as 
when. stuffed into the fish or fowl. This is excellent for fish, poul- 
try, game, etc. 

Poultry Stuffing.— Take a loaf of light bread, chop fine; add a 
little melted butter, or cream, and 2 eggs. Some savory summer 
celery leaves improve it often, with warm water and milk. 

Various Stuffings.— For fowls a variety may be had by adding to 
the i^lain dressing, dates, stoned raisins, chopped celery, etc. A little 
ingenuity will devise many varieties. 



POULTKY 151 

Oyster Stuffing. — Take a small loaf of baker's bread, remove the 
crust, and crumb the bread very fine; pour on hot water enough 
to moisten it, and cover it tight. Chop 1 large onion and a qt, 
of oysters, take ^ cup of melted butter, 1 teaspoon of powdered 
sage, and salt to taste. Mix all together, and if the oyster liquor 
does not make it moist enough, add a little more hot water. 

Chestnut Stuffing — Blanch, boil, and mash, 12 large chestnuts. 
Cook the liver of the fowl, mince it fine, and 
add the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon each of salt 
and minced onion, 1 tablespoon chopped ham, 2 
tablespoons grated bread, a little lemon juice and 
white pepper; mix all with the mashed chestnuts^ 
and use for stuffing. 




The chestnut is said to have come originally from Lydia. 
It has been used for food from very ancient times. It attains 
a great age. As a food it is the least oily of all the nuts, and 
the easiest of digestion. It contains 15 per cent, of sugar, 
and a large proportion of starch. They can be preserved so 
as to keep good for years. The tree called horse=chestnut is 
altogether different and its fruit is not suitable to eat. chestnut. 

BOILED CHICKEN — Pluck, singe, wash, and bone them, fill 
with any dressing liked; do not crowd in the dressing; sew up, and 
boil gently for an hour or more. To prevent the skin from breaking, 
roll each one up in a separate cloth. For salads, and cold sliced 
chicken, they may be boiled in a kettle with the v/ater slightly 
salted, and without the dressing. Boil until the meat will start from 
the bones, and let them get entirely cold before cutting for salads; 
then they can be skinned and all the meat served in a much nicer 
manner than when the bones are taken out before cooling. 

CHICKEN FRICASSEE— Take 2 young chickens, cut them 
up, put them in a stew-pan, merely cover with cold water, cover with 
the pan, and stew until tender; then season with salt and pepper, and 
2 tablespoons of butter, A little celery can be added if liked. Add 
2 tablespoons of flour, wet with a little milk or water, and the well 
beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which are mixed with a little of the cooled 
gravy, before being added; bring all to a boil, and then put the 
chicken on a warm plate, and pour on part of the gravy, sending the 
balance to the table in a boat. If old fowls are used, they will need 
longer stewing than chicken— 3 or 4 hours being none too much. 

SOUTHERN FRICASSEE.— Cut up chicken as for a fricassee. 
Dry each piece and dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker dust; sea- 
son with pepper and salt, and fry each piece very brown in half 
butter and half lard. When well browned, add 1 cup of hot water, 



152 POULTRY 

cover and simmer ^ hour. Then take out chicken and put on plate 
in warming oven. Have ready a bowl of rice — cooked; put it into 
frying=pan which the chicken liquid has simmered in, add 2 toma- 
toes, chopped fine, a chili pepper, also choj^ped fine. Toss all 
together lightly with a fork. Pile high in the center of platter and 
lay around it the pieces of fried chicken; garnish with stoned olives. 

CHICKEN CHEESE — Take 2 chickens, boiled tender, chopped 
not too fine, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Boil hard 3 or 4 
eggs, and slice, with which line molds and pour in the chickens, 
adding the liquor in which they were boiled. When perfectly cold, 
slice for luncheon, or Sunday tea, or for sandwiches. 

ESCALLOPED CHICKEN.— Cut cold boiled potatoes into irreg- 
ular pieces; remove all the meat from a cooked chicken and cut it 
into small pieces; make a sauce of 1 pint of milk and 1 beaten egg, 
seasoned with a little salt and pepper; put a layer of the meat in a 
pudding-dish, then a layer of potatoes, and sauce to cover them; 
another layer of meat and potatoes, and cover the whole with cracker 
crumbs, moistened with melted butter; bake ^ an hour. 

CHICKEN LOAF — Boil 2 chickens in as little water as possible 
to cook them without burning, until the meat will droj) from the 
bones. Remove the meat from the bones and cut it fine without 
chopping. Put it back in the kettle, with plenty of butter, pepper 
and salt; heat it thoroughly. Slice a hard-boiled egg in the bottom 
of a dish, pour the chicken over it hot, place a weight upon it and 
set in a cool place. When cool, it will come out in a form. 

CHICKEN AND OYSTERS— Take a nice, tender chicken, and 
split it down the back, and after cleaning it well, pound all the bones 
flat; wash and wipe it dry; season with pej)per and salt, and fry in 
sweet lard until tender and brown on both sides; put it on a platter 
and keep it warm. Make a gravy in the pan (after pouring out the 
fat) with ^ pint of water, a piece of butter, and flour for thickening, 
or use ^ pint of cream without the butter, if preferred. Have ready 
about 25 large oysters washed clean in salt and water, then dried in a 
towel, and add them to the gravy when it comes to boiling; plump 
them in the hot gravy, and pour on the dish of chicken. Serve hot. 
Time, about ^ hour. 

CHICKEN PATTIES.— Take 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoon of 
corn=starch, 1 pint of cooked chicken, chopped coarsely. Let half 
the cream come to a boil in a stew-pan. Mix tlie remainder of the 
cream with the corn=starch, and add as soon as it boils; when this 



POULTEY 153 

thickens, take off the fire, add the chopped chicken, and season to 
taste with salt, white pepper, and any other seasoning liked. Line 
patty=pans, small saucers, or sauce=plates, with rich pie^crust, and 
bake. When all is cold, place a heaping spoon of the chicken on 
each crust and serve. 

CHICKEN PIE. — Cut the chicken in small pieces as for frying, 
and stew in just water sufficient to cover it, with a little salt, until 
the meat begins to separate from the bones; take it out, pick out the 
bones, and put the meat in a tin pan or large pudding=dish; season 
the gravy with a little more salt, if needed, and a little white pex)per, 
then thicken with a little corn^starch; add a lump of butter if the 
chicken is lean, and pour the gravy over the chicken. Make a rich 
baking-powder biscuit dough, spread it with the hands until it is 
large enough to cover the pie, place it on the meat, and cut a large 
cross in the middle of the crust; bake until the crust is a rich, golden 
brown (| to 1 hour), but do not have the oven hot enough to 
scorch it. 

Dangerous Gases in Meat Pies. — If the pie is cut and eaten hot, 
there will be no danger of its being poisonous — if set away to cool, 
be sure that there is an opening in the center of the crust down to 
the meat, for the escape of the steam and gases while cooling. The 
rising of the crust while baking, sometimes closes the opening in it, 
and the slow cooling, and confined gases, cause it to be unwholesome. 
This should be especially guarded against with all meat pies. Meat 
pies are those made entirely of meat and crust, while mince pies are 
made of minced meat, apples, fruit and spices. 

MEAT PIE — Take cold turkey, chicken, or any cold meat chop- 
ped fine; season with salt, pepper and gravy; lay pie^crust around 
the edge of a platter, and cover the same ; bake a nice brown in the 
oven. Time, ^ to | hour. 

PRESSED CHICKEN — Boil 2 or 3 chickens and use what is 
wanted for dinner — then take what is left and boil until it will drop 
from the bones easily. Remove bones, and let the liquor boil down 
if there is too much; then add the meat, and season with pepper and 
a little cinnamon. Put in a square tin to press. It is easily made, 
and is very nice for Sunday lunch. 

CHICKEN AND RICE — Take fricasseed chicken and remove 
the bones from the largest pieces, leaving the others in. Cover the 
bottom of a small pudding^dish with cold boiled rice, then put in a 
layer of the chicken, sprinkled with salt and pepper; then more rice, 



154 POULTRY 

and so on until the dish is full. Have the last layer rice. Put in 
the gravy that is left, and cover the whole with the yolk of an egg 
well beaten. Set in the oven and bake until it is light brown. 
Time, | to 1 hour. 

CHICKEN SHORTCAKE.— Cut the meat from the largest pieces 
of cold stewed chicken and remove the bones (the wishbone and 
other small pieces may be left whole); heat, adding more gravy, if 
necessary, and when hot pour it on a shortcake, cut in pieces made as 
follows: Shortcake. — Mix 2 teaspoons of baking powder with 2 cups 
of flour. Rub into it a small -| cup of butter, and then add 1 cup of 
sweet milk. Bake in a quick oven in a thin sheet. 

CHICKEN SUPREME.— First skin, then carefully cut the breast 
meat from 2 full grown chickens; divide each side of the breast meat 
into 2 long fillets — this will give 8 pieces, and is sufficient for a party 
of that number; flatten them by rolling with the rolling-pin until 
they are about an inch thick, then broil over a clear coal fire until 
they are thoroughly done and well browned; sprinkle with salt and 
white pepper, xDlace on a hot platter, and spread with butter. Gar- 
nish with parsley, and serve with currant jelly, or any meat sauce 
preferred. These fillets can be stewed tender in a little water, and 
served with Bechamel sauce. The remainder of the fowls can be 
used for a stew, chicken pie, or chicken fricassee. 

CHICKEN TARTS. — Mince cold chicken very fine, and season 
with pepper and salt to taste. Boil 1 cup of milk with -| an onion 
and a blade of mace in it; when it is scalding hot, take out the onion 
and mace, and stir in a thickening made of 1 teaspoon of flour wet 
with cold milk. When it has boiled a few minutes, mix in 2 cups of 
chopped chicken. Have ready some rather large tarts made of puff 
paste, and put a spoonful of the mince in each. 

CHICKEN AND TOMATOES.— Prepare chicken as for a fricas- 
see, with a few slices of salt pork and a small onion, sliced; cover 
them with water and let them simmer slowly; when nearly cooked 
add 4 medium^sized tomatoes, peeled and sliced, and a little salt and 
pepper, and cook | hour longer. Arrange the chicken on a platter 
with some toasted crackers, and pour the broth over the whole and 
serve. 

FRIED FOWL — -Cold roast or boiled fowl can be dipped in bat- 
ter and fried. Make the batter of 4 heaping tablespoons of flour, 1 
egg, ^ cup of water, and 2 tablespoons of salad oil. Add the water to 
the flour gradually, stirring it smooth; then beat in the yolk of the 



POULTKY 155 

egg, with I teaspoon of salt, and just before you want your batter, 
stir in the beaten white; some flour may require a little more water. 
Dip each piece of chicken in the batter, and fry a light brown, 

TO MAKE OLD FOWLS TENDER.— Take an old fowl and 
stew it from 2 to 4 hours according to our directions for stewing; 
then roast it in the oven, basting frequently. It will make an old 
fowl 5 or 6 years old, tender and equal to a chicken. Try it. 

FOWLS RECHAUFFE {Eeheated).— Cut up a cold fowl, taking 
off the legs and wings, and dividing the fowl in pieces. Season bread 
crumbs with pepper and salt, and minced parsley; mix all together 
and lay over the pieces of fowl in a dripping-pan, and brown them in 
the oven. While that is taking place, make a gravy of butter and 
flour in | pint of water or broth; add a tablespoon of catsup and let 
it come to the boiling point; place the warmed fowl in a dish to 
serve, pour over it the hot gravy, and send to the table immediately. 
Good for breakfast. Time, about ^ hour. 

MINCED FOWL.— Cut the meat from the bones, and put them 
on to boil with the bits of skin which are left, and an onion, in 
enough water to cover them. When they have boiled until you have 
a cup of strong stock, strain and pour in a cup of hot milk, with pep- 
per and salt; then stir in 2 cups of minced fowl, and serve with chop- 
ped parsley sprinkled over it. 

STEAMED FOWL. — Place a fowl in a close steamer and cook 1 
hour. Then remove the steamer, rub well with salt, and stuff as for 
baking; steam again until perfectly tender, then place it in a baking- 
pan, rub with flour and butter and place in the oven until brown, 
basting often with butter. Use some of the liquor in the steamer for 
gravy by adding it to the butter in the drip- 
ping-pan; thicken the gravy with flour, and add 
the chopped giblets and a little celery salt. 
Time, 2 to 3 hours. 




GUINEA FOWLS — They are better when 
a year old and under, for the old fowls are apt 
to be tough and dry, Gruinea fowls are cooked 
in various ways in the same manner as the com- guinea fowl. 

mon domestic fowls. 

GIBLETS. — These are the liver, heart and gizzard of fowls, with 
the feet, and long, bony part of the legs, and the tips of the wings. 
Carefully cut away the gall sack from the liver, peel the hard lining 



156 POULTRY 

from the inside of the gizzard, and remove the veins, arteries and en- 
veloping membranes from the heart; throw them in cold water and 
wash well. Boil them | hour in slightly salted water sufficient to 
cover them. Take them up, cut in small pieces, or chop, thicken 
and season the gravy and return the giblets to reheat; then serve as 
giblets stewed. Or they may be baked in 2 crusts as " giblet pie." 
Giblets are also chopped, added to the gravies, and served with the 
fowls they were taken from. Scald and scrape the legs and feet for 
the soup=kettle — they are rich in gelatine. 

ROAST DUCK — Choose ducks that are plump, and have yellow- 
ish feet; dress like other poultry, taking care to get off all the down. 
Fill the body with seasoned dressing, sew up, and bake or roast, bast- 
ing often. Time, 20 to 40 minutes. They are often parboiled before 
being baked, as that lessens the strong taste. They can also be 
stuffed with apples which absorb the strong taste and should not be 
eaten on that account. Celery should be served with roast duck, and 
any of the piquant meat sauces liked best. 

Wild ducks are cooked in the same way as the domestic variety, 
but if the bones are solid and show indications of age, they are better 
Ftewed, or boiled and made into side dishes. 

GEESE — Greese are called green until they are 4 or 5 months 
old. They are dressed, singed, trussed, and roasted in the same way 
as chicken, carefully basting them while baking or roasting. Cook 
until they are thoroughly browned on both sides, and the English 
sauce for them is made of gooseberries, as their name indicates. 
The remains of baked green goose is made into entrees, side dishes, 
hashes, etc., in the same way that other cold poultry is re=warmed. 
Time, 1 to 1^ hours according to size. 

ROAST GOOSE — It is better to keep the goose a few days after 
coming from the market, but do not let it come to the slightest taint. 
Pluck, singe, draw, and wash thoroughly; then fill the cavity with a 
dressing made with sage and onions, if liked, or a plain bread and 
butter filling may be used. Sew up, and bake or roast in a moderate 
oven until a golden brown on both sides. Baste often; use butter 
and flour when nearly done. The goose is sometimes parboiled be- 
fore baking. The oil which runs out will be too strong for gravy. 
Serve apple sauce with the goose. Time, if small, 1^ hours; if large. 
If hours. 

Goose Stuffing {Soyer''s). — Take 4 ajjples, peeled and cored, 4 on- 
ions, a little sage and thyme; stew until soft, then pulp through a 
sieve; add a sufficient amount of mashed potato to fill the bird. The 
stuffing should be well seasoned with, salt and pepper. 



POULTKY 157 

BOILED TURKEY.— Draw and clean the turkey, then bone and 
nearly fill the inside with veal force-meat; thrust a trimmed boiled 
tongue down the middle of the force=meat, and sew up the turkey 
securely; truss and put it as near as possible in the original shape. 
Sew it up in a buttered cloth, and boil very gently to prevent it from 
bursting. Time, 3 to 4 hours, according to the size. To carve, cut 
across the breast, so as to give each person a slice composed of equal 
parts of tongue, turkey and force-meat. Turkeys dressed in this 
fashion, covered with Bechamel sauce, and garnished with aspic 
jelly, form an elegant dish for ball suppers. 

BONED TURKEY, BOILED— Chop finely about a pound of 
veal, and | pound of salt pork; roll 3 crackers, add 2 eggs well 
beaten, with a little chopped parsley; salt and pepper to taste; mix, 
and fill the turkey, not crowding it. Sew it up and roll in a cloth; 
boil from 3 to 4 hours, then press by putting it on a platter, turn 
another platter over it, and place a weight on the upper platter, until 
cold. Take a quart of the broth in which the turkey was boiled, add 
an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water, and 
the juice of a lemon; place it in a dish about an inch deep; when 
solid, cut ^ of it in inch squares to lay over the top of the turkey ; 
beat the other half with a fork and place around the turkey. Sau- 
sage meat of fresh pork, highly seasoned, may be used for filling, in- 
stead of the veal and salt pork. 

ROAST TURKEY — After drawing the turkey, stuff it with 
bread, oysters, or any other stuffing desired; then sew it up, truss, 
and rub with butter, and sprinkle on pepper, salt and flour. Put it 
in to roast, having the oven hot at first; then reduce the heat and 
put 2 cups of water in the dripping=pan. Baste frequently, and each 
time dredge on salt and flour. It should be cooked thoroughly, roast- 
ing about 20 minutes to the pound, and 20 minutes extra. Cran- 
berry sauce and currant jelly are the best things to serve with roast 
turkey. 

Giblet Gravy can be made for turkey by boiling the giblets till 
very tender (begin to boil them early); then chop fine, and add salt, 
pepper, and sufficient flour to thicken. When the turkey is removed 
from the pan, pour on the giblets sufficient gravy from the pan, and 
boil it. Make an ordinary gravy with the balance left in the pan, as 
some do not like giblet gravy. 

TURKEY CHEESE — This is an excellent way to cook an old 
turkey too toiT^h for roasting. Have it dressed in the usual way, and 
let it hano- in the lardi^- for a few days if the weathor is co\(\. Singe. 



1.58 ' GAME 

wash, and cut it in small pieces as for a fricassee of chicken ; put it 
in the dinner- pot with just cold water enough to cover it, put on the 
fire, and let it come to boiling; then add a tablespoon of salt and set 
the kettle on the back of the range, where it will gently simmer until 
the meat will separate from the bones. At this stage, remove the 
kettle from the fire, take out the turkey into a pan or deep earthen 
dish, remove all the bones, cut the larger pieces of meat into smaller 
portions, season with more salt, if needed, add pepper and herbs, if 
liked; then pour the liquor from the kettle over it, and let it get cold 
before using it. 

TURKEY RAGOUT — Cut all the meat left from roast turkey, in 
as large pieces as it will allow. Break up the bones, put them in a 
stew-pan, with cold water to cover them, boil an hour, strain out the 
bones; season the liquid with pepper, salt, a little chopped celery or 
celery salt; stir in a thickening made of a spoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold milk, ^ a cup of milk, and butter the size of 
an egg. Stir over the fire constantly until thick as cream put in the 
cold turkey, simmer five minutes and serve. 

A GOOD BREAKFAST DISH— A fine breakfast dish can be 
made by frying the livers of chickens or turkeys with a few thin 
slices of bacon, Cut the liver and bacon very thin; season with pep- 
per and salt. 



GAME. 

Game is young if the bones of the legs and wings break easily, 
and if the skin is tender. 

All water birds should be eaten as fresh as possible, as their flesh 
is oily, and soon becomes rank. If there is a large quantity of game 
on hand at one time, it will be well to cook the young game first, and 
the old, 1 or 2 days later, as old birds will keep longer than young 
ones. Old birds also need longer cooking. Young game cooks 
rather more quickly than poultry, and the flavor is best retained by 
cooking it plainly. The rule is, that while dark meated game may 
be rare, white meated game should be well done. 

Game, like all meat, should not be washed, unless it is really 
needed, and should never be left in the water, because, as we have 
elsewhere explained, the water will draw out the juices. 

Game drawn with care only needs wiping. It is best o dry-pick 
birds, using care, and taking off all the feathers which can be readily 



GAME 159 

removed; then plunge into boiling water, skin, draw, and finally 
wipe carefully. Vfild ducks and geese, however, are so oily that 
they should be washed with warm water and soap, as anything less 
effectual will not cleanse them properly. The objectionable flavor of 
wild ducks comes from the oil in the skin ; if it is very strong, they 
can be skinned; then spread with butter, dredge thickly with flour, 
and put in a very quick oven to roast. 

The directions for " drawing " and " trussing " given for poultry, 
will apply equally well for wild iV)wls. 

Overcoming the Wild Flavor. — It is sometimes desired to overcome 
the wild flavor in the large birds, as it is disliked by some people. 
There are various ways to do this: (1) Take a lemon, take off the 
peel, and lay it inside; renew it every 10 or 12 hours, and continue 
for 1 or 2 days. From most game this will absorb the unpleasant 
flavors. (Probably the best plan.) (2) Ducks, geese, prairie chick- 
ens, pheasants, etc., may lie for 10 or 12 hours in salt and water. 
(3) They may be put in soda and water for 2 or 3 hours, (4) Par- 
boil in water containing 1 or 2 onions. 

Restoring Tainted Game. — If game becomes slightly tainted, it 
should at once be picked clean and put into milk for a full day (24 
hours) keeping it entirely covered; this will sweeten it, and it should 
be cooked at once. 

Most game is kept as long as it can be without becoming tainted, 
as it is thought the flavor is thereby developed. 

Game is less fat than butcher's meat, and is generally considered 
very nourishing; it is easy of digestion and is valued in the sick- 
room. This does not apply to wild fowl, however, which have close, 
firm and rather oily flesh, and are, therefore, unsuited to weak stom- 
achs. 

The garnishes for the larger game, like wild ducks, etc., are pars- 
ley, slices of orange or lemon, cranberry or apple sauce; while for 
small game, the most common are parsley, toast, currant jelly, and 
slices of lemon. Currant, grape, or any acid jelly, is suitable to serve 
with game. 

Cranes, Plovers, Snipes, Herons, Prairie Chickens, Quails, Pigeons, Wood- 
cocks, and all small game, are cooked in much the same way as spring 
or broiler chicken — that is, if the game is young, which will be known 
by the tenderness of the bones, and the freshness of the feet. They 
can be broiled, fricasseed, stewed, etc., in the same manner as poul- 
try. 

Old game should be parboiled before roasting, as that is the bet- 
ter way of cooking old game or poultry. 



160 



GAME 




WILD DUOK. 



BLACKBIRD PIE.— Take 1 doz. blackbirds, reedbirds or otii- 
er small game; skin and draw them, cutting off the heads and feet. 
Put a bit of bread, buttered, peppered, and salted, into the body of 
each bird; place them in a pudding-dish with thin slices of cold, boil- 
ed, fat salt pork; add a little cold water, cover them with rich pie 
crust I inch thick, and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven. Time, 
30 to 40 minutes. 

WILD DUCK. — Pick the ducks carefully, and thoroughly singe 
off the down, then rub them with a coarse cloth. Split them open 
down the back, wash clean, and dry 
them with a cloth; pound flat with 
the potato^masher, or rolling=pin, and 
broil; turn often on the fire, which 
must be clear and bright. Have a 
little wisp, made of a bit of linen, tied 
on a clean stick, and rub them with 
melted butter every time you turn 
them. Serve hot. Ccmvas'-back ducks 
should be served on hot plates, and eaten as soon as possible after be- 
ing taken from the fire. Serve with celery mayonnaise. 

PARTRIDGES.— Sowed.— Bone the birds, and lard with thin 
slices of salt pork; stuff with oysters, roll up and tie; place in a drip- 
ping-pan with a little hot water and butter; bake in a moderately hot 
oven until well browiied, basting often. Serve with mushroom sauce 
and mashed potatoes and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. 
Time, about ^ hour. 

Roast Partridges,— Pick, draw, and wipe clean; then fill with tur- 
key dressing; truss them in shaj)e 
and put in the dripping-pan with 
a little water; lay on the birds 
thin slices of fat salt pork. Roast 
about an hour, basting often ; when 
done thicken the water in the pan, 
add more seasoning if needed, 
place the partridges on a hot plat- 
ter, and pour the gravy around 
them, or send it to the table in the 
gravy boat, with a garnish of pars- 
ley around the birds on the platter. 

PIGEONS — _Rorts/.— These to be good should be cooked soon af- 
ter being killed, and should be dressed and drawn immediately. 




PABTBIDGE. 



GAME 161 

Wash them thoroughly and wipe them dry; spread a lump of butter 
on a bit of bread and place it in the cavity of each bird; truss them 
into shape, cover the bottom of the baking=pan with very thin slices 
of salt pork, place the pigeons in the pan with the backs down, and 
put a little water in the pan; roast in a hot oven until they are done, 
and of a nice brown color; they should be basted often. Time, about 
20 to 30 minutes. Garnish the pigeons with the bits of pork, slices 
of lemon and parsley. Make a gravy in the pan, and send it to the 
table in a gravy boat, with the pigeons. The juice of a lemon 
dripped over the birds after they are on the platter adds to their deli- 
cacy. 

Pigeon Pie.— Line a pie dish with thin slices of fat bacon, place 
on this the pigeons cut in quarters, three pigeons to a pie. Fill the 
interstices with veal taken from the loin or leg (of course uncooked); 
season with pepper and salt, and proceed as to the crust in the same 
way as for other meat pies. Time, about 1^ hours. 

Squabs (Young Pigeons). — Dress in the same manner as for "broil- 
er'' chicken; split down the back, pound flat with the rolling-pin, 
butter the broilingsiron, and cook over clear coals until a delicate 
brown, turning often. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepper when 
done, and spread with butter, and keep hot on the top shelf of the 
oven until ready to set on the table. Time^ 4 to 6 minutes. 

PLOVER — Fricassee. — Dress, wash clean, and put to stew in 
just water to cover them; boil slowly for an hour, then add a little 
salt, and boil the water out rapidly, to brown the birds in the kettle; 
watch that they, do not burn. Take out, put bits of butter on the 
birds and keep hot. Make a brown 
gravy in the kettle, pour over the 
birds, and send to the table. 

Fried Plover. — Skin the birds, re- 
serving only the breast and legs — the 
remainder can go into the soup^kettle 
• — wash and wipe them dry; roll in 
flour or bread crumbs, put in a hot 
well buttered frying-pan and fry until 
nicely browned on both sides; place on 
a hot platter, spread with butter, and 
sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, plovek. 

and keep the platter hot while making 

a gravy. Add more butter for the gravy, to that in the pan. and ^ 
pint of hot water. Mix a little cold water with a tablespoon of com= 
starch, stir rapidly until it thickens, season with salt and pepper, and 
11 





162 GAME 

pour it over the birds. Serve with wild grape jelly, or some nice 
meat sauce. 

PRAIRIE CHICKEN.— Cut out the breasts, cut each one in two, 
rub with butter, broil, season with salt and pepper, and serve on but- 
tered toast; garnish with currant jelly. If for breakfast, serve on 
fried mush. The balance, except the breast, is apt to be tough, and 
is best if first parboiled; then rub with butter and broil as above. 
They are often split open at the back, rubbed with butter and broiled, 
but we think the above the best way. 

QVAIL.— Broiled.— Fick, draw, 
and split down the back, then wash 
and wipe dry; pound flat with the roll- 
i ng'pin, or a flatnron coveredwith a 
cloth; broil slowly, and baste often 
with butter. Serve on toasted slices 
of bread, richly buttered. Time, 4 to 
6 minutes. 

QUAIL. 

QUAIL PIE. — Take 8 or 10 quails, cut each in two, and lay in 
salt water for 2 hours; then put them in a sauce^pan with 1 large 
onion, 2 chili peppers, some parsley, cut fine, salt and black pepper; 
cover with water, and stew until tender; then add ^ lb. butter, 2 
tablespoons flour, and simmer for a few minutes; season with a little 
lemon juice and mushroom catsup. Place in a pan, cover with puff 
paste, and bake. Time, about 1 hour. 

SMALL BIRDS. — A method of treating small birds which is 
liked by many, is to halve sweet potatoes lengthwise, scoop out a 
depression large enough to receive half a bird, or if very small, a 
whole one. Put in the dressed bird, season with pepper, salt and 
butter, put on the other half of the potato, tie it, and bake till soft. 
Serve in the potatoes; garnish with green leaf. Reedbirds, etc., are 
nice this way. Small birds can also be fried in hot fat, or roasted, 
broiled or stewed. 

SNIPE.— Treat the same as Woodcocks. 

WOODCOCK. — Pick the birds, draw the trail, and wipe clean. 
Tie the legs, remove the skin from the head, turn the head under the 
wing and tie, also tying a thin slice of bacon on the breast. Fry in 
hot lard 2 or 3 minutes. Season, and serve on toast, with currant 
jelly. If preferred, it can be prepared the same way and roasted in 
the oven. Time, about ^ hour. 



GAME 



163 



SaWis of Woodcock. — This is made of cold roast woodcock. Cut 
the birds into small neat pieces to serve, and keep the remainder — all 
the bones and trimmings — for the soup=^kettle. Simmer until the 
meat comes off the bones, with herbs, a little salt and pepper. Add 
also any gravy left from the day before. Strain through a colander, 
and return to the kettle. Thicken with a little corn=starch and put 
in the pieces of woodcock to get hot in the soup. There should be 
about enough of the soup for a plenty of good gravy. Croutons, or 
strips of toasted bread can be laid around the edge of the platter, 
with sprigs of parsley or chives. 

GROUSE. — Cook same as "Prairie ""'" 

Chicken." Or the breast and legs can 
be larded; then rub with butter, sprinkle 
on pepper and salt, dredge with flour, 
and roast in the oven. A bread sauce 
is best served with it. 




delicious, cooked in 
and they make a fine 
the skin tough, they 



RABBITS.— Jack=rabbit is the term 
usually applied to the wild rabbit of the 
United States. They are plentiful in 
some parts of the country, and in the 
fall, when the boys bring them in from 
gunning excursions, they are fat and most 
various ways, either roasted, fried or boiled, 
soup or pot-pie. If the bones are strong and 
are old, and are better boiled whole and served with white or cream 
sauce. If young, the skin is tender and the ears tear easily, in which 
case they are nice cut in pieces, pounded flat and broiled over a clear 
fire in the same way as chickens are broiled. They can be roasted 
whole, if young, after being filled with a bread and butter dressing, 
with a large slice of fat salt pork spread over the rabbit, and it should 
be frequently basted. If large, it should 
be in the hot oven from 1| to 2 hours, and 
well browned, and served with a brown 
gravy made in the dripping=pan after the 
meat is put on the platter. 

OPOSSUM — Scald like a hog, clean, 
and expose to a frosty air about 2 days. 
Then parboil, and bake like pigs' meat, in 
a moderate oven, basting often. Peel and 
split sweet potatoes and place them in the 
pan to bake with the meat. 




164 GAME 

SQUIRRELS The old ones may be known by their greater size, 

and by the greater strength of the bones. After dressing and clean- 
ing, they are cut in quarters; those that are old are better stewed. 
Put them over the fire in a kettle, with water enough to cover them; 
stew gently until the meat starts from the bones, then season with 
salt, pepper, and herbs, if liked; add a little corn- starch for thicken- 
ing, with a lump of butter. The young squirrels can be cut in quar- 
ters, and either broiled or fried, as you would chickens. 

Squirrel Pie. — Clean, and soak | hour in salt water; take out and 
stew with a little salt pork until half done. Line the sides of the 
dish with pastry, lay in the squirrel, put in the gravy, put on an 
upper crust, cut a cross in it to let out the steam and gases, and 
bake. Time, about ^ hour. 

BUFFALO AND BEAR — Bear and 
bufPalo meat is either baked, boiled, fried 
or broiled, in the same ways as beef. 

RACCOONS AND WOODCHUCKS — 
Kaccoons and woodchucks, are stewed or 
baked, and served after the manner of 
pigs' meat, and are considered a delicacy 
by hunters. Old animals can be parboiled 
before cooking — with young ones it is not necessary. 

VENISON — Venison is easily digested. As the hairs often 
cling to the meat, it should be cleaned carefully before cooking. The 
best cuts for steaks or roasting come from the loin or saddle. The 
rules given for cooking beef or mutton apply equally to venison. 
Stew the tougher parts. Currant jelly is considered the best thing 
to serve with venison, or garnish with slices of lemon. 

Venison Steaks. — Cut venison steaks in suitable pieces for serving; 
heat ^ of a lb. of butter in your frying-pan; season the steaks with 
salt and pepper, then dip them in wheat flour or rolled cracker 
crumbs, and fry them a nice brown on both sides. When done, set 
them in the oven with a tin over, to keep them warm, while you pre- 
pare gravy, as follows: Dredge a large tablespoon of flour into the 
butter in the pan, and stir until it is brown, without burning; put in 
a teacup of boiling water, with a teaspoon of currant jelly dissolved 
into it. Stir briskly for a few minutes, then strain the gravy over 
the meat and serve at once. 




CUTTING UP AND CURING 
MEATS. 



"ir T is very desirable for every housekeeper to know the location 
f(pj and names of the different parts of meat, and many families 
i occasionally cut up and cure animals for their own use, and so 
in this chapter we will give such information on these subjects 
as will meet the requirements of our readers. Before corning meat 
hang it 1 or 2 days after it is killed. 

BEEF. 

1. Rump. — Used for corned beef, 
stews and steaks. 

2. Aitchbone. — Used for stews and 
pot-roasts. 

3. Round or Buttock. — Used for 
stews, boiling, pot=roasts, or steaks. 
The lower part is good to work up in 
Hamburg steaks and curry of beef. 

4. Hock. — Best for soup or stews. 

5. Shin or Leg. — Used for soup, 
stewing or hash. 

6. Shin. — Used for soup or cheap 
stews. 

7. CZod.— Used for soup, stock, 
stews, sausages, etc. 

8. Neck or Sticking Piece. — Used same as clod. 

9. Shoulder Clod. — Used for stews, pot=roasts, hashes 




Brisket. — Used for soups, stews, corned and spiced 



-^ 


s 


<^ 


3 


■ \ 




,--' 


'2/ 


13 


rW 



etc. 

10, 
beef. 

11. Thin Flank. — Used for stews or for corned beef or 
dried beef. 

12. Thick Flank. — Suitable for corned beef, boiling, 
stews, or pressed beef. 

13. Sirloin. — Used for sirloin or porter house steaks or 
choice roasts. The tip is an extra fine roast, and should have 
3 but is sometimes cut up with 2 ribs. 

14. Fore Rib. — The 5 ribs nearest the sirloin are the best; 
it makes fine roasting pieces, or steaks; the bones are often 
taken out and the meat rolled, when the bones can be used for 
soup. 

15. Middle Ribs. 

16. Chuck Ribs.- 
second quality. 

17. Cheek. — Used for soups or stews. 

Other parts used are: (18) The Brains which, 
when well soaked, can be stewed, fried, scalloped or made into cro- 
quettes. (19) Ox'tail, used for soups and stews. (20) Cow-heels, 



—Usually roasted. 

-Used for stews and steaks and roasts of 



/ '* 


Q 


/ '^ 


\ 






ii 



166 . CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

which make as good jelly as calves' feet, and what remains of them 
is good eating; they also make good soup. (21) The Heart, which 
can be stuffed, braised or roasted, but although economical it is 
rather indigestible. (22) The Liver. — It can be boiled or fried and 
is very nutritious and cheap. The food known as "faggots " is made 
of the liver and lights of sheep and bullocks mixed with some fat. 
(23) The Kidneys, used for stewing, pies or puddings. They are 
cheaper than the kidneys of young animals, but difficult of diges- 
tion. They need light cooking, as they are apt to dry up when 
exposed to a high temperature. (24) The Tongue is boiled and 
braised, either fresh or salted. It can be bought either way. (25) 
Tripe. — This is easily digested, but is not very nutritious. (26) 
Sweetbreads — This in full grown animals consists of the pancreas, 
and is not equal to the thymus gland of the calf. (27) Suet. — That 
which surrounds the kidneys is the firmest and best. (28) The 
Spleen or Milt of bullock, sheep and x)ig is sold for food. It is gen- 
erally stuffed and roasted, or stewed or boiled for stock. (29) The 
Fillet lies under the rump and loin and weighs 6 or 8 lbs. 

Tlie Lights are the lungs. The Pluck is the lights, liver and 
heart. 

It is well to remember that any part of an animal which is much 
exercised is tougher than parts which are exercised little or none. 

VEAL. 

1. Head. — Used for soup or jelly. Calves^ 
brains are served as an entree. 

2. Neck. — Used for stews or soup. 

3. Knuckle. — Best stewed or boiled; occasion- 
ally roasted. 

4. Feet. — Used for jelly making; occasionally 
stewed or fried. 

5. Loin. — Prime roasting joint or for cutlets. 

6. Chump end of Loin. — Used for roasting or 
cutlets. 

7. Fillet. — The most economical roasting j oint, 
and furnishes the best cutlets. 

8. Knuckle. — This is cheap and is best used 
for stewing, boiling or for stock. 

9. Flank. — Used for stews. 

10. Breast. — Best stewed; sometimes roasted. This part furnishes veal ten- 
dons served as an entree. 

11 and 12. Shoulder or Bladebone. — Used sometimes for roasting and some- 
times for cutlets. 

13. Rib. — Used for small roasting joint or for chops. 

14. Siveetbreads. — These are found above Fig. 14 and consist of the tJiymus 
gland found on both sides of the windpipe. The stomach sweetbreads are located 
further along near the stomach. 

Other parts used are : (15) T/ie If (^c/r/, which is more digestible 
than bullock's heart and is liked by many. . (16) Li rer.— Thin is 
very lean, and is usually cooked with some of the inside fat or with 




CUTTING UP AND CUEING MEATS 



167 




bacon. (17) Kidney. — This is more delicate than beef kidney, and 
is preferred to it. (18) Suet. — Veal suet is more delicate than beef 
suet, and may advantageously be substituted for that in puddings 
and for all purposes. 

*PORK. 

1. Feet. — Used for pickle or jelly; 
occasionally boiled, or boned and stufif- 
ed. 

2. Ham or Leg. — Used for roasting, 
boiling or frying; the most economical 
piece to buy. 

3. Bacon. — Generally cured. 

4. Hock. — Best stewed or boiled. 

5. Shoulde}\ — Smoke, or cut steaks 
from this. 

6. Lower Neck. — Used foe sausages 
or lard. 

7. Head. — Can be boiled or made into brawn; the cheek 
can be made into smoked jowls, and the snout boiled. 

8. Shoulder Top. — Used for spare=ribs, steak or sausage. 

9. Fore Loin. — Usually roasted. 
10. Loin. — The best roasting joint; chops are also cut 

from it. 

Other parts are: (11) Pig''s Fry. — This con- 
sists of the liver, sweetbreads and some of the 
inside fat. (12) The Harslet, consisting of the 
liver, lights and heart. (13) The Chine; this is 
the 2 loins unseparated from the backbone. (14) 
Lard; this has a lower melting point than beef or 
mutton fat, and the lower the heat at which it is 
melted the smoother it is. 

TO CUT UP PORK.— Have the hog laid on 
his back on a clean bench; cut off the head close 
to the base. If large there will come off a considerable collar be- 
tween the head and shoulders, which, pickled or dried, is useful for 
cooking with vegetables. Separate the jowl from the face at the nat- 
ural joint; open the skull lengthwise and take out the brains — es- 
teemed a luxury. Then, with a sharp knife, remove the backbone 
the whole length; then the long strip of fat underlying it, leaving 
about 1 inch of fat covering the spinal columu. Take out the leaf 
lard, and the tenderloin — a fishy shax3ed piece of flesh. Now cut out 
the middle or sides, leaving the shoulders square=shaped and the 
hams pointed or rounded as desired. The spare^ribs are usually 
wholly removed from the sides, with but little meat adhering. It is 
the sides of young hogs, cured as hams, that bear the name of break- 
fast bacon. The sausage meat comes chiefly in strips from the back- 
bone, part of which may also be used as steak. The lean trimmings 




168 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

from about the joints are used for sausage. The chines are smoked 
with the jowls and used in late winter and spring. The feet should 
be heated over the fire until the hoofs can be easily removed; then 
scrape clean, and, after being a few minutes in hot water, scrape and 
wash carefully, and they will be ready to cook. The fat from the 
intestines is all removed; use that which sticks to the larger intes- 
tines for soap grease. 

Sometimes the smaller intestines are used for sausage cases. Try 
uj) all flabby pieces for lard. The sweetbreads, liver, kidneys and 
heart are used for boiling. When meat is to be pickled it should be 
dusted lightly with saltpetre, sprinkled with salt, and allowed to 
drain 24 hours; then plunge it into pickle, and keep it under weight. 
It is good policy to pickle a portion of the sides. 

Pork is cured for the market iu different ways; the fat sides are taken from 
the ribs, cut in pieces, packed in barrels with layers of salt, and then covered with 
strong brine, in which it is kept until retailed from the barrels. Sometimes the 
sides are well cured in the brine, then hung, dried, and afterwards packed in boxes 
with dry salt. At the South this is called bacon, and smoked bacon if it has been 
hung in a smoke=house. Pig meat is treated in the latter way, and makes a deli- 
cate meat called breakfast bacon. The hams, shoulders and cheeks of pork are 
pickled in brine for a certain length of time, then are taken from the pickle, and 
either packed dry in salt, or smoked and packed in a manner to best preserve 
them. One of the best ways of keeping hams in the country, is to dry the hams 
well in a smoke-house, then rub them well with fine salt and sugar, roll up well in 
newspapers, and pack in barrels, filling as you go with clean wood ashes. 

MUTTON AND LAMB. 

1. Loin, chump end. — Used for roasting or chops; 
chump chops are cut nearest the tail where there is 
the EQOst bone. 

2. Loin. — The best roasting joint. 

3. Back. — Used for roasting, boiling, or for mut- 
ton cutlets. 

4. Shoulder. — Used for roasting or for stuffing; 
is fatter and not so economical as the leg, but is pre- 
ferred by many. 

5. Neck. — Used for stews. 

6. Head. — This makes excellent broth but is not 
much used by the well=to!=do classes. 

7. Shank. — Suitable for stews or soups. 

8. FeeL—Vsed for jelly. 

9. Hock. — Suitable for stews or soup. 

10. Leg. — Used for roasts or chops; mutton steaks are cut from the leg; usu- 
ally considered the most economical piece to buy. 

11. Breast. — Suitable for stewing or boiling; often economical but too fat for 
some. 

Other iDarts are: (12) The Chine, which consists of the 2 loins 

unseparated from the backbone. (13) The Saddle, which consists of 

2 loins and 2 legs undivided. (14) The Heart, which is best roasted. 

(15) The Liver, which can be fried or made into soup. (16) The 

Kidney, which can be broiled or stewed (often sold with the Ibin). 

(17) MuUon Suet. — This is not so good as beef suet for puddings, 

etc. 




CUTTING UP AND CUEING MEATS 



169 




LAMB. — When very large it is cut into the same joints as mut- 
ton; when small it is simply cut into quarters. Lamb's Sweetbreads 
are considered a delicacy. Lambs Fry consists of the liver, the 
sweetbreads, and some of the inside fat or leaf of the heart. 
Lambs Kidney, Head and Feet are also eaten. Lamb's kidneys 
cooked a little while are tender, but long cooking toughens them. 
Many people prefer the fore quarters, but the leg is the most eco- 
nomical part to buy. 

VENISON. 

1. Loin or Haunch. — Used for steaks, roasts and 
,e-wB; also for making smoked venison; the ribs can 
3 used for soup. 

2. Foi^e Loin. — Good for roasts or steaks. 

3. Shoulder. — Usually roasted, or boned, stuffed, 
and then roasted or baked. 

4. Neck or Scrag. — Used for soup or stews. 

5. Breast. — Used for stews or baking. 
The best and sweetest venison comes from a 

female deer about 4 years old; doe venison (in season 
from October to December) is not equal to buck 
venison — (in season from June to October 1st). The 
haunch is the prime joint, though the shoulders are 
much esteemed. Venison requires more care in the 
killing, preserving and dressing than any other meat. 
As soon as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool, 
dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an airy 

place. If it is to be kept some time, dust dry ginger and pepper over it to keep 
off flies; keep it as long as it is possible to preserve it untainted. If it should in- 
advertently become musty, first wash it with lukewarm vinegar and water, and 
afterwards with lukewarm milk and water, and then dry it perfectly with a cloth, 
and flour it. 

PICKLE FOR MEAT.— Make 8 gallons of brine strong enough 
to float an egg, add 2 lbs. of brown sugar, and 1 quart of molasses, 
and 4 oz. saltpetre; boil and skim clean, and pour cold on the meat. 
Meat intended for smoking should remain in pickle about 4 weeks. 
This pickle can be boiled over, and with a fresh cup of sugar and 
salt, used all summer. Some persons use as much soda as saltpetre; 
it will correct acidity, but we think impairs the meat. 

Note. — In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not be- 
ing generally required to be kept for a great length of time, less salt and more of 
other matters better adapted to retain the mellowness in meat may be used than 
could be adopted by those who cure large quantities for shipment. Sugar is well 
known to possess the preserving principle to a large degree without the pungency 
and stringency of salt. It acts without contracting the fibers of the meat, and 
therefore does not impair its mellowness, but when used in sufiiciently large quan- 
tities for preserving effect it imparts a flavor not agreeable to many people. It 
may be used with salt, however, to great advantage in about the proportion of 1 
part by weight of sugar to 4: parts of the mixture, and now that sugar is so much 
cheaper than formerly it may be more commonly used. 

MEAT PICKLE — Take of moist sugar, 2 lbs., common salt, 4 
lbs., saltpetre, ^ lb., fresh ground allspice, 2 oz.; water 6 to 8 quarts. 



170 CUTTING UP AND CUKING MEATS 

Dissolve. Used to pickle meat, to which it imparts a fine red color, 
and a superior flavor. 

TO CURE MEAT.— To 1 gallon of water add 1^ lbs. salt, ^ lb. of 
sugar, I oz. saltpetre, | oz. potash. Make any quantity desired, pre- 
serving these proportions. Boil these together until all the dirt from 
the sugar rises to the top and is skimmed off; then throw it into a 
tub to cool, and when cold pour it over the beef and pork to remain 
the usual time, say 4 or 5 weeks. The meat must be well covered 
with pickle and should not be put down for at least 2 days after kill- 
ing, during which time it should be slightly sprinkled with salt- 
petre, which removes all surface blood, etc., leaving the meat fresh 
and clean. If this recipe is tried it will never be abandoned — 
nothing surpasses it. 

CURING BEEF AND HAM— For beef use 6 lbs. salt, 1 oz. salt- 
petre, 4 oz. New Orleans sugar, ^ gallon sorghum molasses, 3^ gal. 
water; boil and skim the mixture; when cold, pour it over the meat, 
and if the latter is bloody pour ofp the brine, scald it, and when cold 
pour over the meat again. If the meat is a ham or shoulder to be 
smoked, it should lie in the brine 20 to 30 days, and then be hung up 
to smoke. Beef to be dried should be treated in the same way, but 
corned beef lies in the brine until it is used up. 

HAMS, TO CURE — To each green ham of 18 lbs. use 1 dessert- 
spoon of saltpeter, ^ lb. of brown sugar applied to the fleshy side of 
the ham and about the hock; cover the fleshy -side with fine salt ^ 
inch thick, and pack away in tubs; let remain from 3 to 6 weeks, ac- 
cording to size. Before smoking, rub off any salt that may remain 
on the ham, and cover well with ground pepper, particularly about 
the bone and hock, hang up and drain for 2 days; smoke with green 
wood for 8 weeks, or until the rind assumes a light chestnut color. 
The iDepper is an effectual preventive of the fly. (An extra recipe.) 

A Southern Rule for Curing Meat — For 250 lbs. of beef or hams and 
shoulders, use 16 lbs. salt, 8 gal. water, 4 oz. saltpetre, 2 quarts mo- 
lasses, 1 tablespoon soda; mix and dissolve. For salting beef, first 
cut it into suitable pieces and pack in a clean barrel as closely as 
can be pressed in by the hand; put it in even layers. When all the 
meat is packed place on top 4 sticks crossed, and lay on them a clean 
stone heavy enough to keep the meat under the brine. Pack hams 
the same way, and after 30 days remove from the brine and smoke. 

WESTPHALIAN HAMS— The famous Westphalian hams are 
cured thus: First rub with dry salt, and then drain 24 hours. Take 



CUTTING UP AND CUBING MEATS 171 

4 quarts salt, 3 lbs. brown sugar, 1 lb. saltpetre, 4 oz. salprunella, 4 
oz. juniper berries; bruise, mix well, boil in 6 quarts of water, cool 
and skim. Take the hams from the salt, wipe dry, pour over the 
pickle, and rub well into the meat. Then smoke a little every day 
for 3 months until completely dry, when they will keep sound and 
improve in flavor for years. Hams shrink in smoking about 10% in 
weight, while pickled or salted pork gains about 10%. 

SUGAR CURING HAMS {English Recipe).— As soon as the 
meat comes from the butcher's hand rub it thoroughly with salt; 
repeat this 4 days, keeping the meat where it can drain. The fourth 
day rub it with saltpetre and a handful of salt, allowing 1 lb. of salt- 
petre to 70 lbs. of meat. Now mix 1 lb. of brown sugar, and 1 lb. of 
molasses; rub it over the ham every day for a fortnight, and then 
smoke with hickory chips or cobs. Hams should be hung highest in 
meat houses, because there they are less liable to the attacks of 
insects. 

TO KEEP CURED HAM — A simple way is by packing closely 
in a stone jar, (after taking oif the rind and cutting in slices) and 
then exclude the air by pouring over enough melted lard to cover 
them; they will keep this way several months. When some is taken 
out melt the lard and pour on again, to protect the balance. 

PICKLE FOR CORNED BEEF— (1) Use 1 gal. water, 1| lbs. 
salt, ^ lb. brown sugar, ^ oz. saltpetre, \ oz. potash; use same propor- 
tions for any quantity; boil all together in an iron kettle, skim and 
strain; put into the pickle tub, and when cold put in the meat, hav- 
ing the pickle cover it, and weighting it down with clean stones. (2) 
For 100 lbs. of beef use 8 lbs. fine salt, 4 lbs. brown sugar, 4 oz. sal- 
eratus, 2 oz. saltpetre, and mix well; put a layer of this in the bottom 
of the barrel and between each layer of meat, removing the large 
bones. Put a weight on the top layer to hold it down, and the juices 
of the meat furnish all the brine necessary. Meat thus pickled is 
ready for drying in six weeks, and does not toughen in the summer. 

TO CORN BEEF {Pocock Piclcle) .—Take 4 gallons fresh water. 
1^ lbs. coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. saltpetre, 7 lbs. common salt; put all 
in a boiler, take off the scum as it rises, boil well, and then let it get 
cold. Have sufiicient to cover the meat, lay a cloth over it, and 
weight down the meat. The same pickle may be used again by 
re=boiling, and adding a small quantity of each ingredient fresh. 

SPICED CORN BEEF. — Prepare a mixture of 4 cups molasses, 
4 cups of salt, 4 tablespoons of saltpetre, 2 tablespoons cloves, 2 



172 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

tablespoons ground pepper; each day for 10 days rub this into the 
beef, turning the meat, and rubbing well in. This is for 20 lbs. 
of meat. At the end of the 10 days it can be used. 

HAMBURGH BEEF — Take a piece of meat from some fleshy 
part; scatter common salt under and over it, and let lie 24 hours to 
void the blood; then put into a pickle made with 1 gal. water that 
has been boiled, 1 lb. common salt, 1| lbs. coarse sugar, 2 oz. salt- 
petre, ^ pint vinegar; simmer until all are melted; place the meat in 
a deep narrow pan and pour over the liquor, covering it completely; 
it will be ready for smoking in 3 weeks; dry well with a cloth, and 
rub pea meal all over it, until it has a good coat on it. If well 
smoked it will come out a bright yellow, and will keep any length of 
time. 

HOME MADE DRIED BEEF— Select a nice round of beef- 
better from a young animal — divide it into 2 pieces, following the 
natural line of division very carefully, so as not to make any cuts or 
gashes for the fly to burrow in. Then for 50 lbs. of meat make a 
mixture of 2 lbs. fine salt, 1 oz. of powdered saltpetre, 1^ lbs. brown 
sugar. Rub this mixture well into the meat every morning until 
used up, and at the end of 2 weeks hang up in a smoke house to 
smoke slightly or just enough to be tasted. Excess of smoke is not 
generally relished. It may be left hanging in any dry place away 
from flies. If it molds a little on the outside that will not hurt. 

BEEF, SCOTCH METHOD OF DRYING.— Take 2 lbs. salt, 1 
oz. finely ground cloves, 2 oz. of ground pepper, or in these propor- 
tions for any desired quantity. After cutting the meat into suitable 
pieces, rub this mixture well into it every day for 5 or 6 days; then 
hang the meat up to dry. This is said to produce superior dried 
beef. 

TONGUES, TO CURE— (1) Take 9 lbs. salt, 8 oz. sugar, and 9 
oz. powdered saltpetre. Rub the above ingredients well into the 
tongues, and keep them in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning 
them every day. Drain them from the pickle, cover them with 
brown paper, and have them smoked for about 3 weeks, The above 
quantity of brine is suSicient for 12 tongues of 5 lbs. each. (2) 
Take ^ oz. saltpetre, ^ oz. salprunella, 1 lb. salt, ^ lb. very coarse 
sugar, 4 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and 3 pints of water. 
Let it boil for | hour, skim off the scum, and pour the liquid into a 
pickling dish; when it is quite cold put the tongue in, and turn it 
every day for 3 weeks, if you wish to cook it green, but if not leave it 



CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 173 

in the pickle for a month. This pickle will keep good for months if 
re^boiled and skimmed. Every tongue put in should first be well 
rubbed with salt, left to drain for 3 days, and then wiped dry. 

PICKLE FOR TONGUES AND BEEF.— Use 1 gal. water, 2 
lbs, common salt, 4 oz. saltpetre, f lb, brown sugar; boil all well to- 
gether. A tongue should be pickled 14 days before it is considered 
well cured. 

TO PICKLE PIGS' FEET.— Put them in strong brine, and 
leave for 1 week; then take out and boil in water to remove the 
brine, then pour vinegar over them, and soak in a pickle containing 
bay leaves, allspice and mace. 

TO CLEAN BEEF TRIPE— Rinse carefully in cold water 
(after emptying the contents, none of which should be allowed to 
touch the outside). Then sprinkle on lime, put it in a tub, pour on 
hot water and leave 2 hours ; then try scraping it with a knife — if the 
dark does not come off readily, spread on more lime and put in the 
tub another hour or two; then scrape, and rinse clean with cold 
water. Put it in salt water, enough to cover it, and leave 3 days; 
change the water each day. Take it out, cut in strips, and whiten by 
laying it in buttermilk for a few hours; then rinse clean, and boil for 
a few hours — or till it is tender enough to mash with the fingers. 
Then it is ready to cook as desired. 

RENNET, TO PREPARE — Rennets should not be saved from 
calves less than a week old; those from 3 to 4 weeks old make 
the best. Never use a stomach of an animal the least out of health. 
Take the rennet out immediately after the animal is killed, turn 
inside out without washing, cure thoroughly with dairy salt, dry 
perfectly, and keep in paper bags till wanted for use. For use, 
soak in clean whey, saturated with salt, for 24 hours before using, 
frequently squeezing them with the hand to macerate. After being 
soaked, keep the liquor as cool as possible in tightly covered ves- 
sels until used. 

TO PREPARE BLADDERS FOR USE — Soak them for 24 hours 
in a basin of water in which a little chloride of lime has been dis- 
solved; then clear all extraneous matter from the bladders, wash 
them thoroughly in clean water, and hang them up to dry. 

SAUSAGES. — Use the trimmings and other lean and fat por- 
tions of pork, selecting about twice as much lean as fat. Some 
consider it an improvement to add about one-sixth the weight of 



174 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

beef. Season to taste. Some use salt and pepper alone (say 1 tea- 
spoon to 2 lbs. of meat), and others add sage, thyme, mace, cloves 
and other spices. If the meat is put into muslin bags 2| to 3 
inches in diameter, and, after being filled, are dipped into melted 
lard and hung up in a cool, dry place, it will keep very satisfactorily. 

PORK SAUSAGES.— For these the right proportions of fat 
and lean meat is about ^ fat, and for every 10 lbs. of the minced 
sausage 4 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of pulverized black pepper, and 1 table- 
spoon pulverized sage is nearly the right proportion of seasoning. 
Mix thoroughly, but add no water. It can be packed down in stone 
jars, with hot lard poured over it, to be cut out in slices for cooking; 
put in cheese=cloth bags of the right size to cut off pieces to 
serve, or it can be filled into the small intestines for beef or 
pigs, and tied into links. The intestines should be cut into 
pieces about a yard long; strip out the contents, turn them 
inside out on a stick; take them off and wash thoroughly in warm 
salted water; put to soak over night in another salted water; the 
next day thoroughly scrape them on a board with a dull knife; then 
soak them another night in salted water, when they will be ready 
foi* use. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.— Take 3 lbs. lean beef, 3 lbs. lean pork, 
2 lbs. fat bacon, 1| lbs. beef suet; put the lean meat into a stew=pan 
of hot water, and set it over the fire for ^ hour; then cut it small, 
each sort by itself; shred the suet, bacon or ham, each by itself. 
Season with pepper, thyme, chopped fine, and ground mace; fill ox- 
skins with it, tie them in lengths, and put them in a beef 
brine for 10 days; then smoke them the same as ham or tongue. 
Rub ground ginger or pepper over the outside after they are smoked, 
and keep them in a cool, dry place. (To prepare the skins, take 
ox intestines, cut them into strips about 6 feet long, wash them 
thoroughly in warm water, and then turn them inside out and wash 
again; scrape them with a suitable scraper designed for this use, 
wash off, and put them into salt water to soak until desired for 
use. Be very careful not to tear the skins while working on them.) 

A SIMPLE WAY TO SMOKE MEAT.— Take a kerosene or rain 
water barrel, and drive nails around the top on which to hang the 
meat; fill an iron pan or pail half full of ashes, and build a fire 
in it; set it in the bottom of the barrel, place a board on top and 
cover with a heavy cloth or blanket to keep out the air and con- 
fine the smoke. Those without a smoke house can easily do a little 
smoking in this way. 



CUTTING UP AND CUKING MEATS 175 

LARD, TO MAKE — Cut the fat up into pieces about 2 inches 
square; fill a vessel holding about 3 gal., with the pieces; put in a 
pint of boiled lye made from oak and hickory ashes, and strained 
before using; boil gently over a slow fire until the cracklings have 
turned brown; strain and set aside to cool. This will give more, 
whiter, and better lard than any other process. 

LARD, TO BLEACH. — Apply a mixture of bichromate of 
potassa and muriatic acid in minute proportions to the fat. 

LARD, TO KEEP SWEET— When rendering (melting) it, 
throw into each kettle a handful of slippery elm bark. Add no 
salt at any time; the jars in which it is kept must be perfectly 
cleaned. This plan will keep it sweet even in the warmest weather. 

BEEF FAT — This, if thoroughly cooked in water and the fat 
skimmed oiff as it rises, is very nice. It will remain soft, and is pre- 
ferred to lard by many, for various uses. 

TALLOW, TO CLARIFY.— Dissolve ^ lb. of alum in 1 pint 
of water; add 50 lbs. of tallow in a jacket kettle (^. e., a kettle, 
set in a larger one, and the intervening space filled with water; 
this prevents burning the tallow); boil it f of an hour and skim. 
Then add ^ lb. salt dissolved in 1 pint of water; boil and skim. 
When well clarified the tallow should be nearly the color of water. 

SUET. — Cut fresh suet in small pieces and cover them with 
water; let them remain in the water bath 24 hours, but change 
the water once during the time; this removes the peculiar tallowy 
taste. Now drain well and put in an iron kettle with \ teacup of 
milk to each pound of suet; let it cook very slowly till the fat looks 
clear and is light brown, and till all sound of cooking has ceased. 
Loosen the pieces from the bottom of the kettle to prevent scorch- 
ing, but avoid stirring; let it stand till partly cooled, then pour into 
cups to become cold. It smells as sweet as butter, and can be 
used in place of it for many purposes. The fat left in the pieces 
may be pressed out and used in various ways. 



HASH AND CROQUETTES. 

> I / HE dinner table should be liberally supplied with both meat 
\\ f and vegetables, as it is the principal meal of the day. This 
"SJ I '^ should be done so that each member of the family can be gen- 
erously helped, remembering that a family stinted in food, 
no matter how finely dressed, or housed, 'can never be in a healthful 
condition; it also provides for unexpected guests. The remainder of 
the dinner, if at noon, can be sliced cold, and served with the supper 
if needed, or minced the next morning for hash. Hash is also a fine 
accompaniment on the supper table in cold weather, when hungry 
children come from school. The meat for dinner need not be of the 
most expensive joints, for the cheaper cuts are quite as nutritious, 
and, if properly cooked, can be made very palatable. 



HASH AND MINCED MEATS. 

Under this head are included recipes for mincing and re=warm- 
ing in an appetizing manner, cold meat of all kinds, fish, etc., etc. 
This minced meat is usually combined with vegetables, or bread, ei- 
ther in crumbs, or toasted slices, and forms a series of dishes, both 
economical and agreeable to the palate. The French term Salmis 
{Salmy by foreign cooks) is used more particularly to designate 
minced game re=warmed in various ways, but in plain English it is 
simply hash. In making hash, and in re-warming any kind of cold 
meat, do not confound the term re= warming with re=cooking; to re= 
cook meat is to harden it, and the secret of good hash is to make it 
just piping hot, and no more. 

HASH. — One of the most common forms in which cold potatoes 
and meat left from yesterday's meal appears, is — hash. Not 1 per- 
son in 10 knows how to put it together appetizingly. Chop fine such 
bits of cold meat as you may have, add a double quantity of potato, 
chopped fine also, mix well, season with pepper and salt to taste; 8 
minutes before you wish to serve the dish, melt a tablespoon of but- 
ter in a spider, and, when hissing hot, put in the hash and press it 
down well and evenly all around. At the end of the time specified, 
have a heated plate ready, turn it over the spider, tip the latter upside 
down with the plate beneath, and send your steaming "' hash cake " 

176 



HASH AND MINCED MEATS 177 

to the table. This " hash " can be varied indefinitely. Some prefer 
a larger portion of meat, others not so much. Occasionally a flavor- 
ing of chopped onion may be added, or a spoonful of any good catsup 
or sauce to give piquancy. And sometimes for a change, mix as di- 
rected, flour your hands well and form into balls, and fry light brown 
in plenty of hot lard. 

Do not stir hash while it is heating, for that inclines it to stick 
to the pan, and it also makes the hash salvey. The very best hash is 
made with hot baked potatoes, f potato to ^ of finely chopped meat. 

BAKED HASH — Chop finely the remnants of cold meat left 
from dinner, chop cold potatoes and add — there should be twice as 
much potato as meat. If there are not enough of cold potatoes for 
this proportion, dip 2 slices of bread in cold milk or water, and chop; 
season with salt and pepper, and herbs, if liked, with a bit of sliced 
onion. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, in the baking=pan, 
put the hash well mixed in the pan and cover tightly with a plate; 
bake ^ hour, and turn out in a cake on a hot dish. If it is covered 
with a white pie-plate, that is the best dish to serve it on, as it is 
already hot. Economical and good. Serve with pickles. 

CORNED=BEEF HASH.— If the family is large, in addition to 
the daily dinner, it is well to boil a piece of corned-beef every 2 or 3 
days and have this hash every day or every other day, either for sup- 
per or breakfast, as it is economical and liked by most people. Not- 
withstanding the threadbare jokes about " hash-mills, " " hash^factor- 
ies," mysteries," etc., people still like a good dish of hash when they 
have "confidence in the cook." Cook the beef slowly until done; let 
it get cold in the liquor it was boiled in, then take it out, wipe it dry, 
and it is ready to chop. Use the fat and lean together, and the cold 
fat from the top of the kettle to heat with the hash. Have the pota- 
toes quite cold, or they will stick to the chopping knife. A lady with 
a large family of fashionable boarders, told the writer that this dish 
was often called for at her table. 

FRENCH HASH — Take cold bits of meat left from a roast of 
beef, chicken or cold turkey, finely minced, add gravy enough to 
make moist; when quite hot, place the mixture over toast. This 
is a very nice breakfast dish. 

HAM HASH — Take equal parts of potato, boiled ham and bread, 
chopped fine, and cooked in hot fat left from frying ham; cook about 
10 minutes, and season with pepper when it is ready to be dished. 

SCOTCH HASH. — Chop raw beef very fine; add butter about 
the size of an egg, pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; cover with 

12 



178 HASH AND MINCED MEATS 

water, stew 15 minutes, keeping it covered. Pour it over slices of 
toasted bread. 

TURKEY HASH. — Mince the remnants of turkey left from a 
previous dinner. Boil the bones in a quart of water until the 
quart is reduced to a pint; then strain, add turkey gravy if you have 
it, a bit of butter if the turkey is not fat, with a seasoning of salt and 
pepper; if there is dressing left, boil it in with the bones. Dredge 
a little flour over the minced turkey, i)ut it in the hot gravy and 
let it just come to boiling heat. Serve in a hot dish on slices 
of toasted bread. 

VEAL HASH. — Chop | pint of fricasseed veal (do not make 
it as fine as for croquettes); put veal fat, beef dripping or butter, in 
the stew'pan with the meat; if you have no broth or gravy, add 
hot water enough to wet the meat. Season with pepper and salt, 
dredge on a little flour, stir all together, put in a hot dish, with 
slices of Itoasted bread or crackers in the bottom, and send to the 
table with baked potatoes. 

VEGETABLE HASH — Take equal parts of boiled vegetables, 
corned^beef, and salt pork, choj)ped together; this makes a fine hash. 
When you have a boiled dinner, always have enough left to make 
hash for breakfast the next morning. The vegetables used are 
potatoes, turnips, cabbage, beets, and parsnips or carrots; put the fat 
from the kettle in which the dinner was boiled, in a large frying-pan, 
and let it melt; then put in the hash, smooth it down, put a pie- 
plate over it to keep in the steam, set it on the back of the stove 
for 15 or 20 minutes until thoroughly heated, and dish it in the hot 
plate which covered it. Vegetable hash is often made without meat, 
and is much liked by most people. 

HASH PIE — Take any kind of cold meat and chop it finely; 
season with salt and pepper, put in a layer of bread crumbs, then a 
layer of meat, then crumbs, until the dish is full. Make a gravy, 
pour it over, and bake. 

SCRAPPLE — This can be made of odds and ends of fresh meat 
such as would be used for soups — pigs' heads and feet, beef shanks 
and trimmings. Boil the meat with sufiicient water to cover it well, 
until the meat separates from the bones ; then take it up, remove the 
bones, cut, or chop the meat finely, and return it to the broth ; add salt, 
pepper, and herbs, if liked. Let it boil up again and thicken it with 
corn-meal to make a stiff mush, and cook it thoroughly. Put it in 
bread pans to solidify, and, when cold, cut off in slices and fry in salt 



CROQUETTES 179 

pork fat, dripping, or sausage fat. This is an inexpensive dish, and 
excellent in cold weather, for supper or breakfast. Finely minced 
remnants of any kinds of cold meats, with the gravy, can be utilized 
in the above manner, instead of the fresh meat. 

PILAFF. 

1 onion. Butter the size of an egg. 

2 cups minced cold meat. 1 teacup rice. 
1 pint tomatoes. 

Put the butter iii a frying-pan, and cut the onion in, then fry to 
a delicate brown; add the rice, and brown that in the butter, taking 
care not to let it scorch. Next add the tomatoes and 1 pint of hot 
water; cover and cook until the rice is done, adding more water if 
needed, but it should not be watery when done. Season with salt, 
pepper and cayenne, and curry powder if liked; then put in the 
chopped meat, stir well, and send to the table hot. 

POTTED MEAT OR FISH — All kinds of meats can be potted, 
and the same general principles hold good for all. Take the cooked 
meat or fish, remove it from the bones, clear away all skin and gris- 
tle, and pound it in a mortar. It should be well pounded, reduced to 
a smooth paste, and no unbroken fibre left. Then add spices, pepper, 
salt, made mustard, mace and cayenne; the amount used varies. If 
it is intended for immediate use, add the spices sparingly; if to be 
kept some time, spice highly. Then moisten with melted butter, and 
press the mixture down in small pots or jars of stone or earthenware, 
and let it get thoroughly hot in the oven; or better, steam it 30 min- 
utes in the steamer. Then press down again and cover with hot 
•clarified butter or beef suet, and tie paper dipped in egg over the top. 
Game of all kinds, fish and" beef, are best put up alone, but chicken 
or veal can be mixed with tongue or ham. This potted meat can be 
used in slices, or for sandwiches, and as it will keep for weeks if 
properly put up, it ojffers a change from hashes or stews, for using 
remnants of food which are left over. 



CROQUETTES. 

These are somewhat allied to hash, as they are only elaborate 
dishes made of finely cut meats, or with fish, oysters, vegetables, rice 
etc., or of several of these ingredients combined. They are formed 
into rolls or ovals, and usually fried in smoking hot fat, after they are 
egged and bread crumbed. Drain on paper, or a wire sieve, paper 
being best. The mixture may be stiffened by working- in a little fine 



180 CKOQUETTES 

cracker dust, if too soft to roll well, but it is apt to be made too stiff 
if any uncooked material like flour is added. 

If the fat in which they are fried is not hot enough they will 
burst open, especially rice and potato croquettes. 

Time to fry, about 1 to 2 minutes. 

BAKED CROQUETTES — Take 2 cups finely chopped veal, ^ cup 
dried bread crumbs, 1 egg, well beaten, 1 teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon 
pepper, a pinch of mace; form into croquettes, roll in egg and cracker 
crumbs, and bake in a quick oven. 

BRAIN CROQUETTES.— Put 2 oz. of butter or beef drippings 
into a sauce^pan and set on the stove; when the butter has melted, 
add 1 small onion chopped fine; let it brown, then add calf's brains 
cut in small pieces, a small slice of bread first soaked in cold water 
and squeezed dry, a little thyme, minced parsley, \ nutmeg grated, a 
little cayenne pepper and salt; heat these all well, then remove from 
the stove and add ^ cup of milk and 1 egg, well beaten. Mix all 
thoroughly and set aside to cool. When cold, form into croquettes, 
dip them in beaten egg, roll in cracker crumbs and fry brown in hot 
fat. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES— To 2 cups of cold boiled chicken, 
finely minced, add 1 cup of fine bread crumbs, 2 well beaten eggs, 
pepper and salt to taste; add a little cream if not moist enough — it 
should be as soft as can be, and keep its shape after being molded. 
Have ready on the fire a kettle of hot fat; flour the hands and make 
the croquettes into rolls a little larger than English walnuts; dip 
them in beaten eggs, then in fine bread crumbs; place in a wire bas- 
ket and fry in the hot fat until a golden brown; drain on a wire 
sieve, then keep them hot until time to serve. 

Chicken Croquettes No. 2. — Take 1 cup finely chopped chicken, 1 cup 
finely sifted bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon white pepper, 
■| teaspoon chopped parsley, and ^ cup stock, made by boiling the 
bones of the chicken; heat all together, and then stir in 1 beaten egg. 
When cold, form into croquettes, roll each in fine bread crumbs, 
then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again. Put them carefully into 
the frying=basket, and plunge it into smoking hot fat for 1 or 2 min- 
utes. 

CHICKEN AND OYSTER CROQUETTES— Take one cup of cold 
chicken, chopped fine, 1 saucer of cold, escalloped oysters, also chop- 
ped, \ cup sifted bread crumbs, pepper, salt, a little mace, and 1 egg. 
beaten light; add a little broth made of the bones of the chicken boil- 



CEOQUETTES 181 

ed in just water enough to cover them. Have the mixture as soft as 
you can handle it, form into long rolls as large as a man's finger, roll 
in sifted bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with slices of 
lemon. 

FISH CROQUETTES — Remnants of any cold fish, egg, bread 
crumos, cayenne, salt, and fat for frying are needed for these. Flake 
the fish finely, season to taste, add an equal quantity of bread 
crumbs; make a stiff paste with beaten egg; form into round balls 
about an inch thick and 3 or 4 inches long, and fry them a golden 
brown in smoking hot fat. 

HOMINY CROQUETTES.— Soak 1 cup hominy in water all 
night, and the next morning boil it till tender in 1 quart milk; let it 
cool, add 1 tablespoon butter, 1 egg, and season to taste with salt and 
cayenne. When cool, shape it in balls, egg and bread=crumb each, 
and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato or onion sauce. 

LOBSTER CROQUETTES.— Use the fresh or canned lobster; 
strain off all the liquor and chop fine. Take 2 slices of bread, soak 
in water, remove the crust, squeeze dry, and mix with the lobster; 
season with salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and mix to a paste 
with a well beaten egg. Form into cakes, dip in beaten egg, then 
in sifted cracker crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

MEAT CROQUETTES.— Use 1 quart of meat, either chicken, 
veal or lamb, chopped but not too fine. To this quantity allow 1 
cup stock or gravy, 1 cup rich milk or cream, 2 large tablespoons 
of butter, 2 large tablespoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon 
onion juice, cayenne and white pepper to taste, mace and any sweet 
herbs liked for seasoning meat, and 1 large cup boiled rice. Melt 
the butter in a sauce^pan, add flour, stir, then add stock or gravy, 
then the milk; when thick so that it can be raised from the pan 
with a spoon, add meat, rice and seasoning; stir till thoroughly mixed. 
Remove from fire, pour into a large flat dish and leave till perfectly 
cold, then form with the hand into cone or pear shapes, roll in bread 
crumbs, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in smoking 
hot lard. Turn with a long handled skimmer and when brown lift 
out and place on brown paper to absorb the surplus fat. Set in a 
moderate oven for 5 minutes and serve. 

OYSTER CROQUETTES — Take the oysters, beard them and 
cnop fine, and mix into a firm paste with bread crumbs, moistened 
with the yolk of an egg, seasoned with parsley, sweet marjoram, pep- 
per and salt. Cut into finger-shaped pieces, and fry a delicate color. 
Strain and serve piled high on a dish, garnished with parsley. 



182 CKOQUETTES 

POTATO CROQUETTES.— Take 2 cups cold mashed potatoes, 2 
eggs, salt to taste, ^ cup fine cracker crumbs; mix well, and roll on 
the kneading board with the hands in round cakes or long ones; 
scatter a little fine cracker dust on the board; egg and bread-crumb, 
and fry until brown in smoking hot fat. 

RICE CROQUETTES.— Take ^ cup rice, boil until soft, let it 
cool and beat into it 2 eggs, 2 spoons sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt; mold 
into balls, egg and bread= crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

RICE AND CHICKEN CROQUETTES.— Take 1 cup cold chopped 
chicken, seasoned with pepper and salt, and one cup boiled rice; 
heat together on a teakettle, pail or double boiler, and if the mixture 
seems dry, add a little milk; when hot, stir in 1 egg, beaten light, and 
take from the fire when thoroughly mixed. When cold, shape into 
balls, egg and bread-crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

VEAL CROQUETTES Take 1 heaping cup of cold chopped 

veal, 1 cup fine, dry bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon 
chopped parsley, a pinch each of sage and red pep- 
per, 2 teaspoons lemon juice; moisten with sweet 
milk, heat it, and add 1 egg, well beaten; use milk 
enough to make it as soft as you can handle when 
it is cold. When cold, form it into croquettes, egg 
and bread=crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

The Sage is a hardy shrub, a native of the south of 
Europe. There are several kinds of it, known as the red, the 
green, etc. Its principal use in cookery is for stuffini^ and 
sauces, the red being most agreeable for this use, and the sage. 

green next. The other varieties are used for medical 
purposes. 

KROMESKIES.— Kromeskies are croquettes cooked in the Rus- 
sian manner; they are made as follows: Mince the remains of any 
cold meat, fish, poultry, or shell fish, as for croquettes; season them 
nicely, and shape like a cork. Instead of dipping them in egg, and 
afterwards in bread crumbs, cut some slices of cold fat bacon 
(boiled) as thin as writing paper; wrap the croquettes in these, dip 
each one in a little frying batter, fry them in hot clarified fat, and 
when brown and crisp, arrange neatly on a hot dish; garnish with 
fried parsley, and serve immediately. Kromeskies may be made 
according to any of the recipes given for croquettes, and should be 
cooked as above. 

SCOTCH COLLOPS — Cut away the fat and any skinny portions 
there may be from about 1| lbs. of steak, and mince it finely, sea- 
soning it well with salt and pepper. An onion can be added, if liked, 




CEOQUETTES 183 

but this is a matter of taste. Melt a little butter in a stew-pan, put 
in the mince and stir it frequently to keep it from getting into 
lumps. In about 8 minutes, dredge a little flour over it, and pour 
upon it a little stock, boiling hot. Let it simmer gently a minute or 
two longer, and serve very hot. Three-cornered pieces of toasted 
bread may be put around the dish as a garnish. 

KOUFTAS (An Indian Dish) — Chop cold meat finely, season 
it well with pepper, salt and spice, make it into a paste with the yolk 
of egg, form it into cakes, and fry (saut6) it brown in butter. 



EGGS. 

VTTT^HE eggs of different birds vary much in size and color. 
^ I / Those of the ostrich are the largest. They are said to be 
JL pleasant in taste, and to keep longer than hens' eggs. The 
eggs of the goose are large, but well flavored, while turkey 
eggs are almost as mild as hens' eggs. Ducks' eggs have a rich 
flavor, and the albumen is slightly transpauent, or bluish when set by 
boiling. Guinea fowls' eggs are smaller and more delicate than 
those of the hen. The eggs of wild fowl generally i3artake somewhat 
of the flavor of the bird they belong to. Those of sea=fowl have a 
fishy taste more or less strong. The eggs of the turtle consist of 
yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. Hens' eggs are the ones 
principally used, and when raw they weigh 2 to 2^ oz. The white of 
an egg is principally albumen, while the yolk contains most of the 
fat found in the egg, and most of the mineral matters, the latter 
being principally sulphur and phosphate of lime. 

Eggs are deficient in the carbohydrates, and hence bread, pota- 
toes, rice, or other starchy foods, should be eaten with them to 
supply the elements they lack. It will be wise to use eggs freely, as 
they are nutriment in its most portable and concentrated form, and 
they are palatable to all classes of people. They are strengthening 
to consumptives and to all feeble persons, and young children. 
They are medicine as well as food. The white of an egg is a sooth- 
ing application for a burn, as it coats it over and excludes the air, 
and it is an antidote for various poisons like corrosive sublimate, 
creosote and acids, as these articles coagulate albumen, and if white 
of egg is given soon after they enter the system, it combines with 
them and protects the stomach. 

Children do not receive into their systems a sufficient supply of lime for the 
development of bones, if eggs form a large part of their diet, for the albumen and 
vitellin of eggs, although highly nutritious, and adapted to the making of muscle, 
is deficient in lime. The embryo chicken takes its lime for the growth of bone 
from the shell of the egg, which diminishes in thickness day by day, until the time 
of hatching, when it becomes so thin as to be easily broken for the escape of the 
chicken. If the water supply of the family is in a limestone formation, children 
will get a sufficiency of lime through the medium of water; but if the rock forma- 
tion is primitive, and the water very soft, the defect may be remedied by the use 
of lime=water, as explained in the chapter on "Invalid Cookery." 

Invalids should never be given eggs which are more than 2 or S days old, as 
they will then have begun to deteriorate. The albumen in an egg will not become 
thick enough to beat well until it has been laid about 10 hours; for boiling or 
poaching, eggs 1'^ days old are best. The philosophy of cooking eggs is 
explained in our article on the principles and processes of ^cooking meat, which 
Bee. 

181 



EGGS 185 

In hreahing eggs, each one should be broken separately into a 
cup, and then there will be no danger that a bad egg will spoil other 
eggs or materials. Also be careful not to break the yolks, as that 
will spoil them for poaching, frying, etc. 

When putting eggs in to hoil, great care should be taken not to 
crack the shell, as a portion of the white will then exude inevitably, 
and it lets water into the egg. When fresh eggs are dropped into a 
large quantity of boiling water, they crack, because the interior, 
being full, is expanded by the heat, and the shells give way. If the 
quantity of water is small, the shells do not crack, because putting 
cold eggs into hot water lowers its temperature. Stale eggs do not 
crack because the air inside is easily compressed. Prick pin-holes in 
the large end of the shell to keep the contents from oozing out 
through the crack, if an egg is cracked before putting it into the 
water. 

Eggs should always be washed as soon as they come into the 
house. Take a little cloth and carefully remove every particle of soil 
from the eggs, and then the shells will be ready to use in clarifying 
coffee or soups. 

COLORING AND DYEING EGGS.— Eggs can be easily dyed for 
Easter, etc. The aniline dyes are useful for the purpose. A simple 
plan is to place the eggs in colored water and boil them in it. Mot- 
toes, monograms, etc., may be produced as follows: Draw upon the 
shell with simple oil and a camel's hair brush, whatever name or de- 
vice it is wished to display; then place it in the coloring liquid and 
the portions touched with oil will remain white, while the remainder 
will be dyed. In a similar way the ground may be left white while 
the designs are colored. Wrapping them in calico which is brightly 
colored, and then boiling them in lye, will also color them. Eggs 
can be colored brown by boiling them in strong coffee, and yellow 
with onion peeling Cochineal will color them any shade from crim- 
son to pink, according to the quantity used. Logwood chips will 
color them any shade from port wine to black, by varying the 
quantity used. They can be made like gold or silver by coating 
them with painters' size (after boiling them hard) and then rolling 
them in a plate containing gold or silver dust, such as bookbinders 
use, until they are entirely covered, or a name or other device may 
be put on in this way. A little butter or oil rubbed over the egg 
when it is sufficiently cool to handle, after being boiled, gives it a 
nice bright look. 

BAKED EGGS. — Cut nice toast into squares. Take eggs out of 
the shell, keeping yolks whole. Beat the whites to a stiff frotli, lay 



186 EGGS 

the beaten white around nicely on the toast, drop yolks in center of 
white ring, sprinkle on salt and put in hot oven to bake a few min- 
utes. When taken out of the oven, pour a little melted butter on 
the toast. 

No 2. — Grease a pie-plate well with butter, break into it as many 
eggs as it will conviently hold, and bake until the whites are fully 
set and the yolks slightly hardened; slip them on to a hot platter, 
and drop bits of butter over them, w^tli a sprinkling of salt. 

TO BOIL EGGS. — Many fairly good cooks do not know how to 
boil eggs in the best manner. There are 2 good ways. One is to 
put them into cold water, gradually bring it to a boil, and as soon 
as the water commences to boil, they will be done. Another way is 
to put them into a sauce^pan and pour on boiling water enough to 
cover them; pouring the hot water on the eggs will lower its temper- 
ature a little; then let it simmer, not boil, until they are done, 
keeping the water about 180° to 185°. 

It takes longer to cook eggs in this way than when they are put 
into boiling water, but when done, they will be jelly-like instead of 
tough and leathery, and are more easily digested. The length of 
time to leave them in the water depends on the individual taste. 
An egg to be soft=boiled should not be cooked in boiling water, for 
then the albumen near the outside will become tough before the yolk 
is heated. To hard-boil an egg, it needs only to be left in the sim- 
mering water longer — say 20 to 80 minutes ; it will then be solid but 
not leathery; the yolk is more mealy when cooked 20 minutes then 
when cooked 10. Eggs for salads, etc., should be thus hard-boiled, 
and, when done, put in a basin of cold water a few minutes; then 
roll them on the table with the hand and the shell will peel off easily. 
Do not cut up eggs for garnishing purposes until about the time 
they are needed, or the yolk will dry up and get discolored. 

Breakfast Eggs. — A nice breakfast dish is made by taking eggs 
from the shell and boiling them 2 minutes in a cup of sweet cream; 
then season with salt and pepper. 

CREAMED EGGS.— Remove the shells from 6 hard-boiled eggs, 
cut them in halves, and cut a slice off the round end, enough to make 
them stand. Put one tablespoon of butter in a sauce=^pan to melt; 
add 1 tablespoon flour, mix till smooth, add 1 teacup milk or cream, 
and stir until it boils; season with salt and pepper. Stand the 
eggs on a heated dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

CURRIED EGGS— Cut some hard boil.^d eggs in halves; cut off 
the white end sufficiently to make thoiii stand upright; then pour 
some curry sauce around them, and serve. 



EGGS 187 

DEVILED EGGS. — Boil 1 doz. eggs hard; cut in two, length.- 
wisGj take out the yolks, and mash them. Prepare 2 teapoons of 
mustard by pouring a very little boiling water on, and mix smooth; 
add a small teaspoon of butter, 1 of sugar, a little salt, and a few 
drops of vinegar. Mix some of the prepared mustard with the yolks, 
and refill the white part of eggs with the dressing. They make a 
nice garnish for lettuce, and also a nice dish for picnics. Other stuff- 
ings can be devised and filled into the whites in the same way. Cut 
them in two crosswise instead of lengthwise, if preferred. 

DROPPED EGGS ON TOAST.— Have ready a dish of boiling 
water, well salted, break the eggs into a saucer, and slide into the 
water, one at a time. Let the water keep at boiling point, but not 
bubble, anddijp'the water with a spoon over the top of the eggs. 
Have ready some nice buttered toast, take the eggs up with a skim- 
mer, lay on the toast, dust a little salt and pepper over them, and 
serve. 

ESCALLOPED EGGS.— Boil 1 doz. eggs for 25 minutes; put in 
cold water and take off the shells. Slice the eggs, and put them in 
a pudding^dish in alternate layers with bread crumbs, having a layer 
of the finest crumbs on the top of the dish. Season each layer of 
eggs with pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, if liked, and be- 
fore .putting on the top layer of crumbs, pour over it a pint of sweet 
cream. Bake until browned on the top. Serve hot. A good coun- 
try dish for luncheon, tea or breakfast. 

FRIED EGGS — Take a hot frying=pan, put in a lump of butter, 
let it melt, and then drop in the eggs; let them fry 3 minutes; add 
salt and pepper to season; lift out with a skimmer. The nicest way, 
however, is to use the egg molds now made for the purpose in 
various sizes. In each mold put a piece of butter, and when melted, 
drop in the eggs; to prevent the under side from being over=done, 
loosen the edges every few seconds; season with salt and pepper, and 
take out with a spoon when done. Sorrel, spinach and green salads 
are nice with them. If a few eggs are fried in a large mold, put hot 
water in the unused forms. 

Cold Fried Eggs can be used for salad, or revamped by dipping 
them in fritter batter, and frying. A fine sauce for fried eggs is 
made of stewed tomatoes, grated cheese, and a couple of chopped up 
boiled sausages. 

EGG GEMS. — Mix together chopped cold meat and bread 
crumbs, in equal quantities. If liked, a tiny bit of onion, chopped 



188 EGGS 

very fine, may be added to the meat and crumbs. Season with pep- 
per, salt, a spoonful of melted butter, and enough milk to wet and 
bind it together nicely. Have some gem=pans well greased, and fill 
with the mixture; then break an egg carefully on the top of each, 
season it with a little salt and pepper, and sj)rinkle some fine cracker 
or bread crumbs on the top. Bake 8 minutes. 

EQQ NESTS. — Dip slices of toast quickly in hot water, spread 
lightly with butter, pile on, in the shape of nests, stiffly beaten and 
salted whites of eggs, place a yolk in the center of each, and bake 8 
minutes. 

OMELETS. — These light and simple dishes require practice to 
prepare them to perfection. Do not cook them until just before they 
are needed, and then serve them at once on a very hot dish. The 
mixing is simpler than the cooking. Any smooth iron spider will 
answer, but have it very clean. Have a clear fire, and the pan hot 
before making the omelet. Mix the omelet, moisten the bottom of 
the pan with a little butter, pour in the omelet and as soon as slightly 
brown underneath, turn one half over the other with a knife, let it 
harden a moment, and turn out on a plate, or lift out with a pancake 
turner. Brown the omelet merely — never burn it, as the scorched 
egg flavor is an injury to it. Numerous flavorings can be added, and 
the name will be derived from the meat, fish, vegetable or herb used. 

Omelet, No. I — Beat 6 eggs very light, the yolks and whites sepa- 
rate; add I teaspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons of milk; have a very hot 
pan, put in 1 tablespoon of butter, pour in the egg mixture, shake on 
the hottest part of the stove until the egg begins to thicken, then 
place on a grate in the oven until set; run the knife between the 
omelet and pan, fold the omelet over, and serve on a hot dish. 

Omelet No. 2 — Take 6 eggs, beat yolks and whites separately; add 
1 teacup milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, salt and pep- 
per to taste. Cook, and serve hot. 

Baked Omelet. — Take 4 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; 
1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of flour and a little salt; add the whites 
just before putting the mixture in the oven. Bake 20 minutes in a 
well=buttered dish. 

Baked Omelet No. 2.— Six eggs, 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of 
flour, a pinch of salt. Beat the whites and yolks separately. Mix 
the flour, milk and salt, add the yolks, then add beaten whites. Have 
a buttered spider very hot; pour in. Bake in a quick oven 5 min- 
utes. 

Green Corn Omelet — Take 6 ears corn, grate or cut the kernels 



EGGS 189 

fine, add 4 eggs, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 cup milk; season with salt and 
pepper, and bake |- hour. 

Orange Omelet. — Mix a little orange juice, grated rind, and sugar, 
with the eggs before cooking them. Or (2) slice the oranges, remov- 
ing the seeds and skin; make a plain omelet, and fold the omelet 
over part of the oranges, and sioread the rest on top when it is 
done, sugaring the top also. 

Queen Omelet. — Use 2 extra yolks to every egg. Beat fast for 2 
minutes. Have the frying=pan or spider hot, with a piece of butter 
the size of an egg; set in a hot oven and bake. When done it will 
be a light puff, and the extra yolks will keep it in shape and prevent 
its falling. Sprinkle with salt, and, if liked, with sugar; turn on a 
hot plate, sprinkle the other side with salt, and send to the table. 

Rice Omelet. — To 1 cup of steamed or boiled rice, add 1 cup of 
water, 3 well beaten eggs, and 1 teaspoon of butter; season with salt 
and pepper, and, if liked, with a little finely chopped ham. Bake 
until it is a light brown. 

Sweet Omelet. — Do not use any pepper, but add a little sugar — 
about 1 teaspoon for each egg. Make like a plain omelet, and when 
done, sprinkle sugar on top. This can be varied by putting any 
desired kind of jam, jelly, marmalade or preserves on top, or they can 
be folded inside when the omelet is folded over. 

Omelette Souffle. — Beat thoroughly together the yolks of 6 eggs 
and 6 tablespoons of pulverized sugar; flavor with vanilla or lemon, 
and then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir lightly 
and quickly with the yolks and sugar; bake in an enameled puddings 
dish, or in small paper souffle cases, one for each person. The 
souffles should bake 10 or 15 minutes in a moderately hot oven, and 
be sent to the table immediately, as they, soon fall. Blanched and 
pulverized sweet almonds can be added to the above for Almond 
Souffle. 

Various Omelets. — Any sort of an omelet can be made by folding 
into the omelet either sardines, tomatoes, ham, oysters, cheese, kid- 
ney, mushrooms, macaroni, or whatever one desires or has on hand. 
Asparagus tops are nice in an omelet. The ingenious cook can 
devise many new and attractive dishes. 

POACHED EGGS — Break the eggs separately into a cup; let 
them slide gently into boiling water with a few drops of vinegar in 
it. Take them out and serve on hot buttered toast. They are often 
conveniently poached in a frying pan; when poached in quantities 
they are ai:)t to run together. In poaching eggs, a few drops of 
lemon juice or vinegar in the water keeps the whites from spreading. 



190 EGGS 

EQGS POACHED IN QRAVY.— Poach the eggs in gravy instead 
of water. Serve them in their gravy, if clear. Or, poach the eggs in 
water, and serve with rich gravy poured round them. 

HAM AND EGGS — Prepare thin slices of fried or broiled ham, 
and serve a poached egg on each one. 

EGGS ON RICE — Butter a baking dish and fill it | full of cold 
rice which was seasoned with salt and butter when boiled; make as 
many depressions in the rice as there are persons to be served, break 
an egg into each depression, sprinkle with salt and strew with bits 
of butter. Bake until the eggs are set. Serve hot. 

SPANISH EGGS. — Serve poached eggs on highly seasoned, hot, 
boiled rice. 

ANCHOVIED EGGS. — Prepare slices of toast, spread them with 
butter and anchovy paste, and put a poached egg on each slice. Sar- 
dine paste may be used instead of the anchovy, if preferred. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. — For every egg allow an even tablespoon 
of melted butter and a tablespoon of sweet milk. When the butter 
and milk is hot, put in the eggs without beating, and stir. When it 
begins to cook, scrape fast from the bottom of the frying=pan to keep 
from scorching. Take off while very soft, as they cook a half minute 
after being taken off, for which many cooks do not allow. Serve by 
itself hot, or on toast. A dash of lemon juice added just as they are 
going to the table is an improvement. 

Scrambled Eggs No. 2. — Beat the eggs, and allow 1 tablespoon of 
milk for each egg; season with salt and pepper, and fry in a buttered 
frying=pan, and while cooking, stir from the bottom. A few spoons 
of boiled string^beans, or boiled peas, or tender ends of aspara- 
gus left over from dinner, can be stirred in; these are nice, furnish 
variety, and use up remnants. Try and devise new dishes. 

SCALLOPED EGGS. — Moisten bread crumbs with cream; place 
a layer in the bottom of a buttered dish; slice hard-boiled eggs, and 
put in a layer of them, with butter, pepper and salt, with chopped 
cold meat; continue alternately until the dish is full; sift grated 
crumbs over the top, and put bits of butter on it; set it in the oven 
and bake 10 minutes. 

SHIRRED EGGS. — Take 6 eggs, 3 tablespoons of gravy — from 
poultry is best — enough fried toast to cover bottom of a flat dish, a 
very little grated cheese, 1 teaspoon butter. Melt the butter in a 
^^-ying-pan; when hot, break into this the eggs. Stir in gravy, and 



EGGS 191 

season; stir quickly and well up from the bottom, until the whole is 
a soft yellow mass. Have ready in a flat dish the fried toast. Heap 
the shirred eggs upon this, and serve before it hardens. 

SCOTCH EQQS — With 1 cup of cooked ham, chopped fine, mix 
^ a cup of bread crumbs made into a paste with ^ a cui3 of milk, ^ a 
teaspoon of prepared mustard, a little salt, and 1 egg, well beaten ; 
hard=boil 6 eggs, remove the shells, and cover them with the prepared 
mixture, and fry about 2 minutes in very hot fat; serve either hot or 
cold. Chicken, veal or salmon may be substituted for the ham, but 
lemon juice should be added to the seasoning if salmon is used. 

SNOWED EQQS — Beat the whites of 6 eggs till stiff; have on 
the stove 2 cups of milk sweetened and flavored with vanilla; when it 
boils drop the beaten eggs into it by tablespoons, and as soon as 
they set dip them out. Let the milk cool a little, then slowly stir in 
the yolks of the eggs, and when thick pour it around the snowed 
eggs and serve. 

STEAMED EQQS. — Break each egg into an egg=cup, set them 
in a steamer and steam until cooked. They can be put in buttered 
patty=pans, if more convenient, and then steamed. Serve hot. 

STUFFED EQQS.— Cut hard-boiled eggs in two, take out the 
yolk, and mix it with fried onions, a little finely chopped ham, and 
parsley, pepper and salt; fill the whites with this mixture, and fry 
until the yellow browns a little. 

EQQ TOAST. — Take a tablespoon of butter and 2 of cream, and 
warm together in a frying=pan. Break 6 eggs in it and stir lightly 
until cooked; have it well seasoned; have buttered slices of toast, 
spread the mixture on it, and serve hot. 




MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE. 

MILK. 

ILK is the only food which, taken alone, will support life in 
all its stages. It is the only perfect food for children, 
and in old age it is one of the most valuable foods known. 
The fat rises in the form of cream; curd is the nitrogenous 
matter, and the whey contains sugar of milk, or lactose, with the salt 
or mineral matter. Milk differs as procured from different animals, 
but its general characteristics are the same in all, and that of the cow 
is most generally used. Unless the milk is of the best quality, all 
the preparations made from it will be of an inferior character. 

Milk when taken into the stomach is coagulated by the acids in the gastric 
fluids, and the coagulum (curd) is digested like any other solid. The watery parts 
are absorbed. If much milk is drunk rapidly it will form a solid mass; if it is 
sipped a little at a time it will be broken into small parts, and will, therefore, be 
more easily digested. A quantity of acid taken into the stomach just before or 
after drinking milk is apt to harden the curd, and so interfere with its digestion. 
Between milk, flour and blood, there is great similarity of composition. The curd 
is the albumenoid part. 

From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number of distinct 
kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk, some forming food, others drink; some 
of them delicious and deserving the name of luxuries, all of them wholesome, and 
some medicinal. 

Milk when first drawn from the cow is slightly alkaline, but afterwards lactic 
acid is formed, so that it becomes first neutral, then acid, and the acidity goes on 
increasing until it is perceptible to the taste; this acidity is thought to assist in 
the rising of the cream. In milk we have the tissue=making elements in its casein, 
and the heat=making in its butter; the curd or casein is changed to albumen 
again in the process of digestion. 

The souring of milk is caused by the bacteria which alight on the milk and 
cause a fermentation which acts on the lactose (sugar of milk) and forms lactic 
acid, which causes the sourness. When enough acid is formed it will unite with the 
soda in the casein, making lactate of soda. The casein, when thus deprived of its 
soda, is insoluble in water, and it shrinks into a curdy mass. The introduction 
of an acid will hasten the process, as is done in making cheese. 

Solidified milk is made by sweetening fresh cow's milk, and evap- 
orating it to dryness in a water bath; when re=dissolved in water, it is 
said to have all the qualities of fresh milk. This preparation of milk 
is sometimes called lactoline. 

Sugar of milk is the dry, white, nearly tasteless powder used by 
physicians in preparing medicine in powders. It does not gather 
dampness like cane sugar, and will keep in good condition for years. 
It is sometimes given to children by itself, as a remedy in certain 
conditions of the system. It is made from evaporated whey. 

Canned or Condensed Milk. — This is now to be obtained in all 
parts of the civilized world, and is invaluable, as, being evaporate i 

192 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 193 

by steam and hermetically sealed, it will keep for an indefinite time, 
while sealed, and after the can is opened, if care is taken, it will keep 
good for a week. The directions for reducing it are on the can. 
There is cane sugar added to it before condensing, and it has the 
color and consistency of thick, opaque honey. It can be used clear, 
a teaspoon to a cup of coffee, without sugar, as it is already sweet- 
ened. Diluted to the right consistency, it is much used as a food for 
infants. When good milk is difficult to obtain, condensed milk is a 
great blessing, for, being sterilized by extreme heat, it is free from 
dangerous germs. The large amount of cane sugar which it con- 
tains, and which is added to preserve it and prevent its thickening in 
the can, renders it somewhat less suited for infants than the natural 
milk, however. 

Sour Milk. — If milk sours on your hands, do not throw it away — 
it can be used in various ways, as in making corn bread, soda biscuit 
and all kinds of pancakes, while many cooks prefer it to sweet milk, 
in making cookies, doughnuts and gingerbread. Sour milk can be 
substituted for sweet in making most kinds of cake, but remember 
in that case that only half as much cream of tartar should be used 
as the recipe calls for. 

Buttermilk also has many uses besides being used as a drink (to 
drink, it should be fresh) as it can be made into soup, or used in 
making corn bread, pancakes, soda biscuit, and many kinds of cake. 

BUTTER. 

Butter is the solidified oil or fatty matter of the milk of animals. 
The Greeks and Romans neither employed it in cooking, nor had it 
brought ux3on their tables; they used it only as an ointment in their 
baths. The Hebrews appear to have used it as food from an ancient 
date, and in England it has been used from very early times. In 
making butter the utmost care is required in all the manipulations 
from the time it leaves the cow until it is packed. The peculiar 
flavor of butter is derived principally from the butyric acid it con- 
tains. In the milk, the globules of fat are held in solution by the 
albumenoid (or proteid) matters, forming what is termed an emul- 
sion. The albumenoid matter must be separated from the butter 
before or during the process of churning, or the butter will not keep 
well. 

TO MAKE BUTTER QUICKLY.— Immediately after the cow is 

milked, strain into clean pans and sot over a moderate fire until it is 

scalding hot; do not let it boil; then set it aside, and when cold, skim 

off the cream, and the milk will still bo fit for any ordinary use. 

13 



194 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

When you have enough cream, put it into a clean earthen basin, beat 
it with a wooden spoon until the butter is made, which will not be 
long; then take it out of the milk and work it in a little cold water 
until it is free from milk, then drain off the water, put in a small 
tablespoon of fine salt to each lb. of butter and work it in. A small 
teaspoon of fine white sugar worked in with the salt will be found an 
improvement; sugar is a great preservative. Make the butter in a 
roll, cover with a piece of muslin and keep in a cool place. 

An easy method of washing butter is to remove the butter from the 
churn, pour off the milk or buttermilk, as the case may be, half fill 
the churn with cold water (a little salt may be added to the water), 
replace plunger and throw back the butter, and operate the churn as 
before for 1 minute. This process will extract all the milk from the 
butter, which may then be placed in a sieve to allow the water to 
strain from it, and then worked in the usual manner. 

BUTTER, TO SALT (JrM i?ecif>e).— To 1 lb. of common salt 
add 1 lb. of saltpetre and | lb. of white sugar; pound all these 
together and mix them well, and to every pound of butter allow 1 
ounce of this mixture; make it fresh as you want it, observing to be 
careful always to keep the same proportions, and to mix the ingre- 
dients thoroughly. The butter should stand a month before you use 
it, to ripen. 

Butter to Salt, No. 2 — One pound of best salt, 4 oz. of sugar and 1 
oz. of saltpetre; pulverize it well together, and allow of this, 1 oz. 
to the pound of butter. 

CLARIFIED BUTTER, OR GHEE, as it is called by the Arabs, 
is prepared as follows: Put butter in a farina boiler or porcelain 
bowl, put it on the stove and bring to a boil; when cheesy, thick, 
white grains form, move it to the back of the range; the buttermilk 
which rises to the top should be skimmed off; after it has settled, 
strain it, and the clear, oily fluid remaining can be bottled for use 
It can be kept for years, and for frying oysters, fritters, etc., there it, 
nothing better known. 

SUBSTITUTES FOR BUTTER — Butterine — In preparing this, 
lard is heated to a temperature not exceeding 120°, and the oil is sep- 
arated; a similar oil is obtained from beef fat, the 2 are mixed, and 
they are then churned with milk, making the butterine of commerce. 

Oleomargarine.* — In preparing this, beef fat is washed, ground, 



*It was during the Francc-=German war of 1870-71 that a French chemist Mege* 
Mourier acting under instructions from Napoleon III, went into his laboratory and 



MILK, BUTTEK AND CHEESE 196 

and heated to 120° to 200° to separate the oil, which is known as 
"butter oil." This is cooled, salted, put into milk, a little annatto 
added to give it color, and it is then churned and worked like butter. 
In preparing butterine and oleomargarine only the best fats can be 
used, for there is no way now known to remove the unpleasant odor 
of fat if it is at all foul. These preparations are about as nutritious 
as true butter, and if properly used they are a most valuable addition 
to the food of the poorer people, who commonly suffer from a want 
of fatty food. Strict laws have been passed in some of the states 
against their sale except under their true name, and this is very de- 
sirable. It is a fraud to sell them for pure butter, but if well made, 
and sold for what they really are, they merit an extensive sale. They 
are certainly preferable to the poorer grades of butter, often partly 
rancid, which are frequently sold in the large cities. The objection 
to their use rests rather on sentiment and prejudice than on any phy- 
siological basis. They are to be considered rather as substitutes for, 
than imitations of butter. 

Other substitutes for butter are the vegetable oils; olive oil is best,. if 
pure, but it is often adulterated with inferior oils. Peanut oil is ex- 
cellent, and cotton=seed oil of late has taken an important place in 
cookery; it is inexpensive, and a less quantity is required than of 
butter in cooking. A preparation of cotton-seed oil and beef suet 
has been widely advertised, and is much used instead of butter and 
lard. Sesamum or Benne oil should be better known; it is easily 
raised in the southern states. It is a bland and oderless oil, and a 
most excellent substitute for olive oil in salads. It keeps for a long 
time without becoming rancid, if stored in a dark place. Poppy=^seed 
oil is also being used now somewhat. We believe the day is near at 
hand when some of the vegetable oils will largely supplant lard and 
other animal fats in nearly all cooking operations. 

Some people who have a dread of "margarine," take a piece of 
fat pork, melt it down, and strain it through a piece of coarse, thin 
muslin; then set it aside until it is cold. It is then white and firm, 
and may be used like butter in any kind of cake. In pound cake it 
is delicious, 

A Word About Fats. — And right here we may say a few words about 
different fats. There are three substances called "stearin," "mar- 
garin," and " olein " which, without exception, principally make up 
all the fats we consume. They are called " neutral fats," and the fact 



inTented the process of making a substitute for butter, designing it for use in the 
French army. The process has since been further perfected, and the making of 
these substitutes has now become a great industry. 



196 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

that they melt at diflPerent temperatures constitutes the principal 
difference between them. There is a small amount of what are 
known as " fatty acids " in the vegetable oils, and in butter there 
is from 5 to 8 per cent, of 4 of these fatty acids (butyric, capronic, 
caprylic and cai^rinic) and from these butter derives its pecular fla- 
vor. Olein melts the most easily, and stearin the least so. The fats 
which melt most readily are the most digestible, and are most readily 
assimilated by the system, but the healthy stomach readily disposes 
of any fat used in the household, in reasonable quantities, although 
it should be taken into the system finely divided instead of in 
lumps. It will readily be seen, therefore, that all the fats are sub- 
stantially alike, and when once they are assimilated, they perform 
the same services for the body. Their flavors, and the readiness with 
which they melt in the mouth and in the digestive tract, make some 
forms, like butter, more palatable than others. Mutton fat would do 
about as well as any, but it is not swallowed readily because it con- 
tains so much stearin. The body requires a certain amount of fat, 
but it makes very little difference which one it takes, and for this 
reason the introduction of some cheaper forms of fat, in such a shape 
that they will be palatable, will be a great benefit to the mass of the 
people. We believe, as we have elsewhere stated, that some of the 
vegetable oils will soon be quite generally used, and it is certainly 
to be desired that they should be. Wealthy people will always use 
the best butter, but the mass of the j)eople should understand what 
the cheaper substitutes are, and their properties and merits, and cer- 
tainly there is no hygienic or physiological reason why they should 
not use these cheaper substitutes, and so make a material saving 
in the household expenses. 

To keep butter sweet when it seems likely to taint, take some 
lime water and put the vessel containing the butter into it, leaving 
it there until the sweetness is restored. 

Rancid butter may be sweetened and recovered (1) by washing 
and kneading it well, first in new milk, and afterwards in cold spring 
water; butyric acid, on which the rancidity depends, being freely solu- 
ble in new milk. (2). Beat the butter in a sufficient quantity of 
water, in which you put 25 to 80 drops of lime chloride to each 
pound of butter. After mixing it till all its iDarts are in contact with 
the water, it may be left in from 1 to 2 hours; afterwards withdraw, 
and repeatedly wash in fresh water. (3). Melt the butter and skim 
as for clarifying; then put into it a piece of bread thoroughly toasted 
all over. In 1 or 2 minutes the butter will lose its offensive smell 
and taste. (4). Thoroughly mix 1 teaspoon of soda and 1 tablespoon 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 197 

of salt for each, pint of butter; then add equal parts of butter and 
cold water, set on the stove, and bring all to a boil; then remove, let 
cool, and take off the butter; it will be sweet, and good for cooking. 
(5). A little saltpetre worked into butter that has become sour or 
rancid will render it sweet. — Remember that great care must be taken 
not to burn butter when trying it out. 

A word about rancid butter. — Nobody eats it on bread, but it is sometimes used 
in cooking, although it really ruins every dish into which it enters. It is injurious, 
and many cases of dyspepsia can be directly traced to rancid butter. It should 
never enter into the composition of any dish which appears on the table. Sweeten 
it or throw it 



To keep butter hard in hot weather, without ice, invert a large 
crock of unglazed earthenware over the dish containing the butter 
(a large, clean flower=pot will answer); the porousness of the earth- 
enware will keep the butter hard if the pot is wrapped in a wet cloth. 
Another way is, after one meal is served, take a silver-plated butter= 
dish, clean and wash it, then when cool, place on it sufficient butter 
for the next meal; set the dish in a shady, airy place (in a draft if 
possible); wet a clean towel with cold water, cover the dish tightly 
with the towel and let it stand until the next meal; the evaporation of 
the water will cool the butter. 

CHEESE. 

When milk is curdled it separates into two portions — curd and 
whey. The former consists of the butter and casein, and produces 
cheese; the latter is mainly water, holding the sugar and mineral 
constituents of the milk in solution. Any acid introduced in milk 
has the curious property of coagulating the curd or casein. This 
acid is supplied by the " rennet," but in some countries a weak 
solution of hydrochloric acid is used instead. In preparing cheese 
for cooking, old cheese should be grated, and new and soft ones 
should be chopped. 

An analysis of cheese shows it to be one of the most nourishing of foods, 1 
lb. of average cheese containing more nutriment than an equal weight of ordi- 
nary meat. Eaten raw it is not suited to persons of weak digestion or of sed- 
entary habits, and it tends to produce costiveness. If it could be properly cooked 
it ought to be one of the most desirable of foods. It is frequently over=cooked, 
converting it into an air=tight, leathery substance, which is harder to digest than 
the raw cheese. When lightly cooked it is easily assimilated, and very nourishing. 
In fact it is too nourishing to be eaten heartily as an accompaniment to meat; it is 
more adapted for the main course of the meal. It is most deficient in the salts of 
potash, which, on account of their great solubility, are left behind in the whey. 
Eating freely of fruits or salads will supply these salts, but vegetables do not 
answer the purpose, because in ordinary methods of cooking them, their salts 
are dissolved out and wasted. 

"With the advance of scientific knowledge and scientific cookery, the true value 
of cheese for food will sometime be better appreciated, and it will take a mucli 
more important place among the foods of the race than at present, we believe, and 



198 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

it is certainly entitled to it. We would add that some of the German scientists 
have recently been investigating the digestibility of cheese. Dr. Rubner found 
that when taken alone he could not consume much of it, but when taken with 
milk he easily assimilated nearly % lb. The softer kinds are very largely used 
in Germany. Except in fat, skim cheeses are as nutritious as any others. 

Rennet. — This is made from the fourth or lowest stomach (the 
abomasus) of the calf. Soon after the animal is slain the stomach 
should be cut open at 1 end, emptied of the curdled milk, and turned 
inside out; then with a damp cloth dipped in dry salt, carefully 
wipe the inside of the bag until it is free from any particles of 
curdled milk; do not wash it, as that extracts the gastric juice. 
Rub fine salt thoroughly into both the inside and outside of the bag, 
place it in a bowl, and cover it to keep out the flies. The next day 
there will be a brine formed with the salt; turn the rennet=skin in 
the bowl, and let it stand another day to pickle. Take a long, slen- 
der, green, wooden stick, make it into bow shape, and stretch the ren- 
net bag on the stick and hang it up to dry. When thoroughly dry, 
do it up in paper so that no insects can get into it, and keep it in a 
dry place. 

To Prepare Rennet — When wanted for use, the dried rennet is cut 
in pieces about an inch square, and if to be used for invalids' curds 
it is put in a bottle with wine; a piece half the size of the hand is 
enough for a pint of wine; it must be kept well corked. It is bet- 
ter to have the druggist prepare the wine after his formula. A tea- 
spoon is enough to " set " a quart of sweetened milk. Set the milk 
on some solid foundation, as it then coagulates with much less ren- 
net than when it is jarred by people walking near it. For dairy 
purposes the rennet is steeped in a weak brine, but that way of pre- 
paring it is not the best for invalid cookery. 

The Usual Mode of Serving Cheese, is to cut the desired quantity into 
neat, square pieces, and put them in a glass cheese=dish, in which 
it is handed around the table. If the cheese is too crumbly to serve 
in this manner, the host or hostess can have the large piece of 
cheese placed on the table, with a cheese^scoop to serve it with, or 
a heavy silver spoon. The cheese must be nicely scraped before 
serving in the latter way. When there is a cheese course at dinner, 
several kinds of cheese are placed on the table at once, cream cheese, 
Parmesan, Stilton, etc., etc., and rusks, crackers, or fancy biscuits, 
fanciful pats of butter, lettuce, cucumbers or cresses, are served with 
the cheese. 

Parmesan cheese is, perhaps, the most celebrated of the foreign varieties. It is 
made of skimmed milk, and owes its rich flavor to the fine, sweet herbage of Lom- 
l)ardy about Farma and Favia, in Italy, where the cows are pastured. It is distin- 
guished by its power of keeping, and after being kept some time it becomes hard 
and needs to be grated before it can be used. 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 199 

BOILED CHEESE.— Take 2 thick slices of cheese, 1 teaspoon of 
butter, ^ teacux) of milk, a little sugar and mustard, 1 egg, pe^jper 
and salt to taste. Put all the ingredients, except the egg, into a clean 
pan, and stir over the fire until they boil and become quite smooth; 
then beat the egg well, and stir it in over the fire for a minute, after 
which pour out on a dish and brown in the oven. 

CREAM CHEESE. — Dip a cheese cloth in salted water, and put 
it in a square dish or baking tin, having first laid a folded napkin 
in the dish; on the cheese=cloth put the thickest cream you have 
— it must be perfectly sweet (Devonshire cream is the best); pour 
the cream in, a little at a time, and sprinkle a little salt on each 
layer; fold over the cloth and let it lie until the next day; then 
turn it into a dry cloth, put a dry, folded cloth under it, put a lixtle 
square platter on it, and set a flat=iron on the platter; change the dry 
cloth once more, and on the third day it is ready to eat. If preferred, 
this cheese can be made in a round form in a pudding-dish. 

COTTAGE CHEESE — Put a pan of sour or loppered milk on 
the stove or range where it is not too hot; let it scald until the 
whey rises to the top (be careful not to let it boil or the curd will 
become hard and tough). Place a clean cloth or towel over a sieve, 
and pour this whey and curd into it, leaving it covered to drain 2 
or 3 hours.; then put it into a dish and chop it fine with a spoon, 
adding a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of butter, and enough sweet 
cream to make the cheese the consistency of putty. With your 
hands make it into little flattened balls. Keep in a cool place. 
Some like it made rather thin with cream, serving it in a deep dish. 

DEVONSHIRE CREAM — The milk should stand 24 hours in the 
winter, and half that time in warm weather; then the milk pan is 
set on the stove, and should there remain until the milk is quite 
hot, but it must not boil. When it is sufficiently done, the undu- 
lations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. . The time 
required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan, and the 
heat of the fire, but the slower it is done the better. Set it back in 
the dairy again, after scalding, and skim the following day. This 
cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the London markets 
in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious when eaten with 
fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and is 
usually very firm. 

CHEESE FRITTERS.— Put into a sauce=pan 1 pint of water, 1^ 
oz. of butter, a teaspoon of black pepper, and a pinch of cayenne, and 



200 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

bring the water to boiling point; then gradually stir in flour enough 
to make a thick paste. Remove from the fire and incorporate ^ lb. 
of grated Parmesan cheese, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a froth, 
and the yolks of 4. Let the paste stand for 2 hours, and then fry in 
little pieces, dropped into boiling lard. Sprinkle a little salt over 
them before serving. 

FONDUE. — Beat 6 eggs until light; season with salt, pepper and 
2 tablespoons grated cheese; put a tablespoon of butter in a frying^ 
pan; when hot, pour in the eggs and stir until well done and smooth; 
serve on buttered toast. 

THE HOME CHEESE SCALLOP.— Soak 1 cup of dry bread 
crumbs in fresh milk; beat into it 3 eggs, add 1 tablespoon of butter 
and "I lb. of grated cheese; strew ujpon the top sifted bread crumbs, 
and bake in the oven a delicate brown. 

ITALIAN CURDS {Gallino CMrcfe).— Take a number of the 
rough coats that line the gizzards of turkeys and fowls; clean them 
from their contents, rub them well with salt, and hang them to dry. 
When needed for use, break off bits; pour over them a little hot 
water, and after standing over night it is ready for use. It makes a 
more delicate curd than calf's rennet. Warm 2 quarts of milk, and 
add some of the gallino liquor, and, when the curd is well set, dip it 
carefully with a large spoon or ladle into a colander over which a 
cheese=cloth has been spread; handle it carefully so as not to start 
the white whey. When the Mdiey has separated from the curd, so 
that it has consistence, sprinkle with salt, and send to the table. 

CHEESE AND MACARONI {Italian ilfocZe).— Boil 6 ounces of 
the best macaroni in 3 pints of boiling water, with a little pepper and 
salt. Allow it to simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes, then drain it, 
return the macaroni to the sauce=pan with -| a pint of good gravy and 
allow it to simmer until it has absorbed all the liquid. Have ready 
grated ^ lb. of cheese, put half of it with the macaroni until it is 
nearly melted, and then add the remainder with an ounce of butter. 
Stir it well, always the one way, until cheese and macaroni are well 
mixed. Serve very hot. A little short crust bordering the dish is 
an addition. 

POLPETTI {Italian). — Chop cold meat finely, either roast or 
boiled; season with mushrooms or truffles, and grated Parmesan 
cheese, nutmeg, salt, pepper and chutnee sauce; spread on a tin to 
cool, after being well heated together; cut in small squares when 
cold, dip in egg, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. 
Serve with plain boiled macaroni and cream. 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 201 

POTTED CHEESE — To pot cheese is an economical way of 
disposing of any that has become dry. Cut the cheese into small 
pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding a little nice sweet 
butter, just sufficient to make a paste suitable for spreading on bread 
for sandwiches; add a little mixed mustard, and a trifle of cayenne to 
the paste; pack in little earthen pots; if to be set on the table for an 
appetizer, cover closely, and set in a dry place; if there is danger of 
mold, put a few drops of extract of cloves on the top of the paste 
before covering; or, if preferred, a thin layer of nice salad oil. 

SMEAR CASE — Pour boiling water on clabbered milk, till the 
curd separates from the whey; let it stand till the curd settles, then 
pour cold water on it and stir; let settle, drain water off; do this till 
the water is clear, then let it settle, and sqiieeze out enough curd for 
one meal. Season with salt, pepper and sugar, and pour good, sweet 
cream over. You can keep it in water for several days, by changing 
the water every day. 

CHEESE STRAWS.— Mix together 4 tablespoons of flour, a 
pinch of salt, a very little cayenne pepper, and 3 oz. of grated English 
cheese. Add the beaten yolk of an egg, and then enough iced water 
to make a very stiff paste. Roll the paste out on a board into a sheet 
■J of an inch thick. Cut the paste into strips ^ of an inch wide and 
5 inches long, and bake them about 10 minutes in a very hot oven. 
They should be a very light brown. If you have any scraps of paste 
left, roll them into a sheet, and cut it into small rings. Bake them, 
and slip little bundles of the straws through them. 

TOAST WITH CHEESE.— In 1 cup of milk stir 1 cup of grated 
cheese, and boil until the cheese softens in the milk; then add 2well= 
beaten eggs; stir until it boils, take from the fire and spread over 
nicely=browned toast. Served very hot. This will be found enjoya- 
ble. It is a nice dish for breakfast or tea. 

WELSH RAREBIT.— Cut slices of stale bread about | inch 
thick, and toast them a nice brown on both sides (take time enough 
6o that it can be well done without scorching, and this rule will 
apply to making toast at any time). Have as many thin slices of 
rich, mild cheese as there are of the toasted bread; dip the edges of 
the toast in hot water, and spread with softened butter; lay a slice 
of the cheese on each slice of toast, and set the platter on the top 
shelf of a hot oven until the cheese is melted into the toast and 
slightly browned. Another way is to lay each slice of toast on a 
blue^^edged English baking=^plate, just a little larger than the toast; 



202 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

dust a little cayenne, or pepper, on the toast before putting on the 
cheese; place the little plates in a large dripping-pan, without water, 
set on the top shelf of the hot oven, and when done as above directed, 
serve each person with the rarebit on the hot plate. Another method 
is to melt the cheese in a little cup and pour it over the prepared 
toast. Some add a little butter and milk, stirring it into the melted 
cheese till smooth, before pouring it over the toast. Others add a 
little egg, butter, mustard and cayenne. Do not make it until just 
ready to serve it, as, if it stands and becomes cold, it will be nearly 
spoiled. 

CHEESE CRACKERS.— Take small, thin crackers, sprinkle on 
grated cheese and set in the oven until the cheese adheres to them. 
Serve either hot or cold. Some people butter the crackers lightly 
and add a dash of cayenne before sprinkling on thp g-^ated cheese. 



SALADS. 



ALADS are preparations of vegetables, fruits, nuts, meafe? 
and fish, which are dressed with oils, acids, salt, pepper and 
often mustard. Vegetables when eaten raw are apt to fer- 
ment in the stomach and the condiments used, such as vine- 
gar, pepper, salt and mustard, aid in their digestion. The prejudice 
against the use of oil which is entertained by many people is proba- 
bly exaggerated, as it is a nutritious food and aids digestion, but 
medical authorities differ about its value. 

The vegetables used in salads should be very carefully cleaned, 
using ice-cold water to wash them in, and they should be after- 
wards carefully dried in a towel. Do not break the leaves if you 
can help it, as that will make them wilt quickly. Putting lettuce, 
cabbage, celery, etc., into ice-cold water for 2 or 3 hours will make 
them crisp. Vegetable salads are best eaten at once after they are 
made, but chicken salad will keep a number of days in cold weather. 
As a knife when used on a vegetable salad will blacken it, and impair 
its crispness, it is better to avoid using one; use a wooden spoon to 
stir a salad, and stir no more than necessary. 

The freshest olive salad oil is the best to use. Cotton=seed oil is 
often sold as olive oil, which is a fraud, but if sold at a, fair price un- 
der its true name, its use is unobjectionable, as it is a nutritious vege- 
table oil. Melted butter is used instead of oil by some people, who 
say they like it better. While melted butter may do for family use, 
oil is the only thing for " state occasions." Arrange a salad on a plat- 
ter or in an earthen salad bowl; never put it in glass, as it looks 
disagreeably smeary when you begin to dish it out. 

As lettuce is necessary to so many salads, a word may be said 
about the proper way to prepare it. It is quite apt to be infested 
with insects which penetrate even to the inner leaves, and therefore 
each leaf must be carefully washed and examined. Let it stand in 
very cold water an hour or longer, shake in a wire basket or coarse 
towel to free it from water, and put in the ice-box until serving time. 
An easier and quicker way than cutting lettuce for salad is to lay 6 
or 8 leaves together in the hand and twist and tear them apart; it is 
better to tear than to cut it. 

There is a common idea that salads are difficult to make and are 
principally adapted for the wealthy, or for special occasions. This 



204 SALADS 

is a mistake, as they can be made from " left^oVer " vegetables, and 
so are economical, and they are easily prepared when one knows how. 
The common people among the French use them almost daily, and 
to advantage. 

The vegetables used should be drained or dried thoroughly from 
the water, or the dressing when applied will be watery, and spoil the 
salad. Do not prepare plain salads until wanted at the table; if 
prepared long beforehand, the lettuce withers, and the dressing 
becomes watery. 

There is an admirable Spanish proverb about dressing salads. 
It says it requires 4 persons to mix a salad; a spendthrift to throw 
in the oil, a miser to drop in the vinegar, a lawyer to add the sea- 
soning, and a madman to stir it together. 

To Fringe Celery. — A simple and convenient way to fringe celery 
stalks, is to take a cork, put many large needles in the end, and then 
cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long, and draw about half 
of each strip through the needles a few times. When well shred- 
ded, put away to become crisp in a cold place. Thus prepared it 
makes a good garnish for salads, meats, etc. 

To Marinate a salad, is to let it stand for a time to season, 
sprinkled with a French dressing. 

Although salads usually contain no flesh forming or heat giving material, they 
are valuable because they introduce into the system large quantities of saline mat- 
ter, which by the common method of cooking is generally removed from vegetables. 
For this reason they are of much valuo to the poorer inhabitants of our towns and 
cities. They should-bc cleaned very carefully so that no parasitic animals remain in 
them. The vegetables are best used when freshly cut, although some of their fresh- 
ness may be regained if the litalks are freshly cut and placed underwater. The salad 
dressing should not be added until the last moment. The French and Italians seem 
to best appreciate the value of salads, 

SALAD DKESSINGS. 
FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.— Mix 1 saltspoon salt and ^ 
saltspoon pepper; then mix in 3 tablesiDoons salad oil slowly, and 
1 tablespoon vinegar, and pour it over the salad. If liked, ^ tea- 
spoon of onion juice can be added; some people also add 1 teaspoon 
of made mustard. Lemon juice or tarragon vinegar can be used 
instead of the vinegar if preferred. For a French dressing the 
standard proportion is to use 3 times as much oil as vinegar, but 
some people use as high as 6 times as much oil as vinegar, and others 
as low as ^ as much. Tastes difiPer, and these rules are all variable. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.— Break the yolks of 2 raw eggs in 
a soup plate, beat smooth with a silver fork, and add oil, a few 
drops at a time, until it begins to thicken, when it can be added 'n 



SALADS 205 

larger quantities; but the stirring must be kept up constantly, and 
with a rapid motion. When it grows thick, add a few drops of vin- 
egar, beat smooth again, and then add 1 teaspoon of salt, a level 
saltspoon of mustard, and a dust of cayenne. The vinegar should 
be added a little at a time until 2 tablespoons have been used. The 
amount of oil de^Dends on the quantity of dressing required, but a 
scant cupful will be an abundance for an ordinary salad. Should 
the mayonnaise curdle, or crack, as it is called, take another egg, 
add oil in small quantities until it thickens, and then stir in the 
curdled mixture, which will soon grow smooth and velvety in appear- 
ance. Take special pains in hot weather to have both ingredients 
and utensils ice cold. 

To color mayonnaise, lobster coral will produce a bright red, 
and spinach green or chopped parsley will color it green. 

BOILED DRESSING.— Take 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon 
of mustard, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of oil or butter; stir 
together until smooth, and then add 3 eggs and beat well; add 1 cup 
vinegar and 1 cup milk and cook in a double boiler to a smooth 
paste, stirring constantly. It will keep 2 weeks in a cool place. 

BOILED DRESSING No. 2.— Beat 3 eggs well; add | cup but- 
ter, 1 cup vinegar, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tea- 
spoon mustard, | teaspoon cayenne pepper; boil until thick. 

CREAM DRESSING — Rub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs fine 
with a spoon, stir in a tablespoon of melted butter, ^ teacup of thick 
sweet cream, a saltspoon of salt, a dust of cayenne, and vinegar 
enough to reduce all to a smooth, creamy state. Add a little mustard 
also, if liked, and pour it upon salad when ready for serving. 

EGG DRESSING — Eub to a paste the yolks of 2 hard-boiled 
eggs. Add 1 teaspoon each of mustard, salt and sugar, with -| tea- 
spoon of pepper, drop in about 2 tablespoons of salad oil or sweet 
cream, and add 4 tablespoons of lemon juice. This is a nice dressing 
for canned salmon also. 

SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL — Rub till smooth the 
yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, add 1 teasx^oon powdered sugar, ^ tea- 
spoon white pepi^er, 1 teaspoon of mixed mustard, ^ saltspoon of salt 
and a pinch of cayenne; mix thoroughly and add equal amounts of 
cream and vinegar until the mixture has the desired consistency. 
Rubbing the rind of a fresh lemon on a piece of loaf sugar, and dis- 
solving this in the vinegar before using it will be an improvement. 
Those who cannot eat salads containing oil can try this dressing. 



206 SALADS 

SWISS DRESSING.— Put 2 ounces of cheese in a mortar, pound 
it well, add 1 tablespoon vinegar, a small quantity of salt and 
pepper, and very gradually dilute it with salad oil. 
VEGETABLE SALADS. 

BOILED SALAD. — Boil celery and beans separately until ten- 
der, cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long, put both into a 
salad dish and cover with one of the salad dressings previously given. 
Some people find salads indigestible when made with raw vegetables, 
and the cooked salads are more wholesome if less agreeable to the 
taste. A little boiled onion, boiled cauliflower, chopped lettuce, 
blanched endive or tarragon can be added if desired; also slices of 
cold meat, poultry or fish. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD. — Take boiled asparagus and dip it while 
warm into melted butter with which is mixed a little mustard and 
lemon juice or vinegar. The extreme ends need not be coated. Ar- 
range with the heads toward the center. It is better if iced before 
serving. Or (2) cut the tender parts of boiled asparagus into short 
lengths, and cover it with a mayonnaise dressing, 

BEET SALAD — Cut cold boiled beets into pieces, and cover 
with any salad dressing. Celery or other vegetable may be added if 
desired. 

STRING BEAN SALAD — String young, green string beans, 
and cook till tender in salted water; then drain, cover with cold 
water, let stand till cold, drain and dry. Serve with or without let- 
tuce, and use a French dressing. Add a little onion juice, if liked. 

CABBAGE SALAD. — Chop a cabbage, and add a French, may- 
onnaise, or boiled dressing. 

CARROT SALAD — Into a salad bowl put 1 cup chopped celery, 
I cup boiled sliced carrot and 2 cups chopped cold veal ; add a little 
finely chopped raw onion, season with salt, pepper and a very little 
melted butter, pour over ^ cup good vinegar and mix well. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD.— Boil the cauliflower, cut in pieces, 
and cover with a French or mayonnaise dressing. A little parsley, 
boiled beets, carrots or tomatoes can be added if desired, and also 
cold tongue or other meat. 

COLD SLAW. — Take | cup vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, "I teaspoon mixed mustard, butter size of small egg; mix, 
stir until it boils, and when cold pour it over chopped or shaved cab- 
bage. Very nice. (The term " cold slaw " is derived from the Dutch 
Kohlslaiv, meaning simply cabbage salad.) 



SALADS 207 

Cream Dressing for Cold Slaw. — Take 2 tablespoons whipped 
sweet cream, 2 tablespoons sugar, 4 tablespoons vinegar. Beat well, 
and pour over cabbage previously cut very fine, and seasoned with 
salt. 

CREAM SLAW — Chop a head of cabbage fine and sprinkle on 
a little salt; let it stand while you make the cream. Mix well 
together, and cook slowly until quite smooth and creamy, 1 table- 
spoon flour, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, -| teacup 
vinegar, ^ teacup sweet milk or cream; when done, pour over the 
cabbage. After you put it in the dish, sprinkle with pepper. Excel- 
lent. If kept in a cool place will be nice for 1 or 2 days. 

HOT SLAW. — Chop a head of cabbage and put into the kettle, 
with a tablespoon of lard (or meat fryings) in the bottom, with 
enough hot water to keep it from boiling dry; add a little salt and 
pepper. When the cabbage is boiled tender, beat 1 egg in a teacup , 
^ full of vinegar, and then fill the cup with cream (sour cream will 
do as well as sweet); pour it over the hot cabbage, let stand 5 min- 
utes, and serve. Will cook in 1 hour. 

CELERY SALAD. — Wash and wipe ^ dozen heads of celery. 
Cut with shears in a salad bowl. Mix the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoon 
of mustard, a little salt and pepper and the juice of 2 lemons with 2 
tablespoons of water. Stir well together, drop over it 3 ounces of 
salad oil, then add a spoon of hot water, and pour over the celery. 

Endive is used also for salads like celery. Endive is a native of China and 
Japan. It resembles eea*kale in flavor, being rather bitter, and it is used for salads 
and soups. It is not so tender as lettuce, but it makes an excellent winter salad. 

EsoABOLE and Monk's«Beabd {Barbe de Cai^ucin) belong to the same family as 
the endive. They can be made into salads alone, or mixed with sorrel, lettuce, etc. 
They make good winter salads, and also excellent salads to serve with game. The 
method is simply to cut them small, and, using 1 alone, or 2 or 3 different vegeta- 
bles mixed, to cover them with a good salad dressing. 

CHICORY OR SUCCORY SALAD.— Take a 
bunch of chicory cut small, add 1 boiled egg and 
1 onion cut fine, and pour over a good salad dress- 
ing. 

Chiooey or SuoooET belongs to the order compositce, 
and the leaves are blanched and used for salads, while the 
root is used to adulterate coffee. ohicoby. 

CREAMY SALAD.— Whip thick cream to a stiff froth; add to 
it some of the boiled salad dressing given among our dressings; have 
the salad dressing cold; use 2 or 3 times as much of the whipped 
cream as of the salad dressing. Have ready cold boiled potatoes 
cut into small dice, pour over the mixture and stir it together. It 
IS more light and creamy than other salads. 




208 SALADS 

CUCUMBER SALAD.— (1) Peel and slice fresh cucumbers, 
and let them stand in a bowl of water 2 hours, changing the water 
twice. When it is time to serve dinner, drain and chop the cucum- 
bers coarsely with a knife, and add 1 or 2 new onions, cut finely. 
Put in a salad dish, and send to the table without dressing. Serve 
in small salad=plates and send it around the table with salad oil, vin- 
egar, salt and pepper. (2) Mix sliced cucumbers and new onions, 
sliced, and cover with a French dressing. 

DANDELION SALAD.— Choose that which is small and tender, 
cut off the root, wash carefully, drain and shake out the water, put it 
in a salad bowl and cover with a French dressing. 
Chives and chervil can be sprinkled on toj), if you 
have them, before applying the dressing, or add a 
little sliced onion if liked, or lettuce or other vege- 
table. 

Cheevil. — This is a plant the roots of which are poison- 
ous, but the leaves are tender and are used in salads. They ^] 
emit an aromatic flavor and are often called myrrh by the 
peasantry of Scotland. The leaves are also used to flavor 
soups. 




OHEBVIL. 



LETTUCE SALAD. — Lettuce makes the foundation for many 
excellent salads. Prepare it as previously directed, and serve it crisp 
and cold. It can be served (1) alone with French or boiled dressing; 
or (2) mixed with celery cut into dice, and with a French dressing, 
which makes an excellent salad. It goes well (3) mixed with sorrel, 
with a French dressing, or (4) with chives, using the same dressing 
and garnishing with olives, or (5) with pepper=grass and water-cress- 
es mixed, using a mayonnaise dressing, and garnishing with radishes. 
A few nasturtium blossoms for a garnish produce a brilliant effect. 
(6) A bed of lettuce covered with sliced cucumbers, and a layer of 
sliced tomatoes on top, covered with a mayonnaise or French dress- 
ing, makes a good salad. 

Lamb's Lettuce (also called Corii'salad or Fetticus) is a small annual plant, 
often used for salads. It comes early in the spring, and although inferior to let- 
tuce, it makes a fairly good substitute for it, and a good spring salad. 

OKRA SALAD. — Put it on top of a bed of potato salad; sprinkle 
on mustard and cress and dress with oil, tarragon vinegar, salt, pep- 
per and a little grated horseradish. Another way is to mix sprigs of 
cress, endive, young onions and radishes with okra, and cover with 
any salad dressing liked. 

PEPPERS SALAD — Take boiled peppers, cut them into strips, 
add a few drops of onion juice and cover with a French dressing. It 
goes well with hot or cold meala. 



SALADS 209 

POTATO SALAD.— Cut cold boiled potatoes in dice and "rwar- 
inate'''' in a French dressing; chill thoroughly, then arrange in a 
tasteful manner, and garnish with parsley, chopped pickled beets, 
and hard*boiled eggs, sliced. For a quart of cut potatoes, a teaspoon 
of salt, a saltspoon of pepper, 3 tablespoons of oil, and 3 of vinegar, 
are required for the dressing, and 4 hard=boiled eggs. This is a 
tasteful dish of white, yellow, red, and green. 

POTATO SALAD, No. 2 — Chop 1 large or 2 small onions very 
fine; add 12 cold boiled potatoes and chop also; if lettuce is to be 
had, chop a head or more with the onion — if not, take the tender 
green leaves of a cabbage. Pour on the boiled dressing given among 
our dressings, and put curled lettuce around the edges and slices of 
cold boiled egg on top. 

POTATO SALAD WITH EQQS— Cut cold potatoes finely, and 
mix with French salad dressing; place on a garnished platter, and 
coyer with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Good for a luncheon or sup- 
per dish in hot weather. 

RUSSIAN SALAD.— Out up very small, equal quantities of any 
cold vegetables, adding lettuce, endive and cress, if you have them; 
add any cold flaked fish, mix all well in a bowl with mayonnaise 
sauce, turn out into the dish in which it is to be served, and garnish 
with olives, filleted anchovies and lemon jelly. 

SALAD IN JELLY — Fill a mold with a lemon or other gelatine 
jelly; when cold, cut out most of the center, leaving a shell of jelly, 
fill it with salad, and serve. 

SALSIFY SALAD — Chop cold boiled salsify, and pour over it a 
French or mayonnaise dressing. Or (2) it can be combined with 
other cold boiled vegetables, such as cauliflower, carrots, beans or 
potatoes, and then the salad dressing added. 

SPINACH SALAD. — Take cold boiled spinach, mince fine, cover 
with a French salad dressing, and garnish with sliced hard-boiled 
eggs. It goes well with roast beef, mutton or game. 

SUMMER SALAD — Thoroughly wash and drain 2 heads of let- 
tuce, the heads of 2 green onions, and a handful of the tojjs of freshly 
cut mustard and water cress; add a plain dressing, placing it under 
the vegetables and stirring well before using The mustard and cress 
are so highly flavored that a plain dressing is better than a more elab. 
orate one. 



210 SALADS 

SWEET POTATO SALAD — Boil 3 large sweet potatoes, and 
when thoroughly cold cut them into half=inch squares; cut into very 
small pieces 2 stalks of celery ; mix with a seasoning of salt and pep- 
per, and pour over it a French dressing, 

TOMATO SALAD — (1) Cut ripe tomatoes into slices, remove 
all the seeds, sprinkle on a French dressing, let them stand 2 hours 
on ice, and they will be ready to serve. (2) Another way is to peel 
the tomatoes, cut them in two, put a spoonful of mayonnaise dress- 
ing on each half, and serve. 

GELATINE SALAD. — Take a quart can of tomatoes, stew, 
strain, add a teaspoon of salt and | box of gelatine soaked in | cup of 
cold water, and then dissolved in ^ cup of boiling water; put it in 
cujos and when set and cold turn them on to leaves of lettuce and 
garnish with mayonnaise dressing. 

RED VEGETABLE SALAD.— Use 2 cups each of cold boiled 
potatoes, cold boiled beets and raw red cabbage. Cut the potatoes 
in thin slices, and the beets fine, and slice the cabbage as thin as 
possible. Cover with a dressing made of 6 tablespoons of oil, 8 
tablespoons of red vinegar (that in which beets have been pickled) 2 
tablespoons of salt and ^ teaspoon pepper. Let stand in a cold place 
an hour before serving. 

VARIOUS VEGETABLE SALADS.— Almost any cold vegetable 
may be used for salads, and this is an excellent way to utilize the 
remnants of vegetables left from dinner the day before. Take any 
one alone, or several vegetables mixed, and arrange them tastefully 
(with lettuce if you have it, without if not); cover with a French or 
mayonnaise dressing. Many varieties may thus be made by any 
housekeeper. 

WATER=CRESS SALAD.— Pick over the leaves and remove 
bruised or wilted ones; if long, tear them into 2=incli lengths; if short, 
it is not necessary. Cold boiled beets, cut in dice, or chopped onion 
may be added. Use a French dressing. Water=cress makes one of 
the most wholesome of salads, and is remarkable for the amount of 
mineral matter found in it. 

The garden cress also makes an excellent salad. Cresses can be 
used alone, or mixed with cucumbers, tomatoes or onions for salads, 
and then cover them with a good salad dressing. 

WINTER SALAD — Bake 1 Spanish onion and 1 large or 2 
medium sized beets; slice them and cut the slices in two twice; cut 
3 stalks of celery quite fine and mix with it 1 tablespoon of minced 



SALADS 2H 

herbs; mix all together and set in a cool place till time to serve; 
then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over 1 tablespoon of 
butter and 3 tablespoons of vinegar. 

MEAT, EGG AND CHEESE SALADS. 

BEEF SALAD. — Take the crisp, small center leaves of 2 heads 
of cabbage lettuce; add ^ lb. cold boiled, fresh beef, cut in small 
pieces. Add or not, as preferred, a tablespoon of chopped sweet 
Spanish peppers. Serve with a plain salad dressing. 

Lamb Salad can be made the same way, by using instead of the 
beef, f lb. cold roast lamb, cut in small pieces. 

HAM SALAD — Cut cold boiled ham into dice, lean and fat to- 
gether; niix with celery or lettuce and cover with a boiled dressing. 

CHICKEN SALAD.— Take the meat of 2 large boiled chickens, 
free it from skin and fat and cut in dice; add an equal quantity of 
celery cut in dice, 3 olives, chopped, 2 teaspoons capers; make a 
dressing of 6 spoons salad oil, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, 
and a dash of red pepper; pour it over the salad and let stand several 
hours in the ice chest. Then arrange it on a platter in a mound, 
pour on a mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with lettuce, olives, 
beets and carrots cut in fancy forms. The chicken should be cooked 
the day before using so as to be thoroughly cold. (See "Veal 
Salad.") 

Chicken Salad, No. 2. — Take the meat from 1 cold boiled chicken, 
and 2 teacups celery; do not chop either, but cut each into dice, and 
mix. Put 2 teacups cream into a sauce^pan and boil; stir in 4 eggs, 
well beaten, until it becomes like thick corn-starch; put the sauce= 
pan into cold water and stir in | bottle Durkee's salad dressing, stir- 
ring to keep it from curdling; add vinegar to taste. When cold, 
pour over the chicken and celery. Excellent. 

TONGUE SALAD. — Chop a nicely cooked tongue fine, then add 
chopped celery and lettuce and the whites of eggs. Use a mayon- 
naise dressing. 

VEAL SALAD — Boil tne veal until it is tender; let it become 
quite cold, cut it quite fine, and use as much chopped celery as veal. 
Mix, after chopping, and just before serving pour over it a rich may- 
onnaise dresssing. (When a large quantity of chicken salad has to 
be made for a party, half the meat may be of veal, boiled in the 
chicken broth after that is done, and no one will ever know the 
difference.) 

SWEETBREAD SALAD.— Cut cold, boiled sweetbreads into 
cubes; chill it in the refrigerator for 1 hour, then add celery, cut 



212 SALADS 

fine, arrange it on lettuce leaves and cover with a mayonnaise 
dressing. 

CHEESE SALAD. — Arrange lettuce in a salad bowl, sprinkle on 
grated cheese, and cover with a French dressing. 

CHEESE AND EQQ SALAD — Put slices of hard boiled eggs in 
a dish, grate on nice cheese, add another layer of eggs, and so on 
alternately. Put a few capers and finely chopped pickles on top, 
pour a mayonnaise dressing over all and sprinkle grated cheese on 
top. Nice at picnics. 

EQQ SALAD. — Put into a salad bowl the leaves of a head of let- 
tuce; slice 4 hard=boiled eggs and add; mince 12 capers and sprinkle 
over the eggs, and cover with either a French or mayonnaise dress- 
ing. Or (2) slice cold boiled eggs, pour over a salad dressing, and 
garnish with lettuce. 

FISH AND SHELLFISH SALADS. 
FISH SALAD. — Take any cooked fish which has become cold, 
remove skin and bones, and flake it or cut in jiieces, and spread it on 
lettuce leaves. Cover with mayonnaise dressing. Finely picked sar- 
dines may be added if desired, and also some hard-boiled eggs. Sal- 
mon is the favorite fish for salads, but almost any other will do. 
The fish can be mixed with cabbage or celery instead of lettuce, if 
more convenient. 

CRAB SALAD — Take the meat of boiled crab, chop it, and mix 
a mayonnaise sauce with it. Clean the shells, jjut in the mixture, 
and garnish with parsley or cresses and sliced lemon. 

LOBSTER SALAD — It is better to use large lobsters, as there 
is less waste than with small ones. Cut up the meat, and pour on it 
oil and vinegar in the proportion of 1 tablespoon of oil to 3 of vine- 
gar, with pex^per and salt, and let it stand in a cold place for 1 hour 
at least; this is called ''marinating^'' it, and serves to season it. At 
serving time, drain it from the oil and vinegar not absorbed, put it 
on a bed of lettuce, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. Garnish 
it with the claws of the lobster and with capers, pounded coral and 
parsley if you have them. It can be made without going through 
the marinating process, but we think that an improvement. 

OYSTER SALAD.— Use the small oysters, and just let them 
come to boiling in their own liquor; skim and drain in a colander, 
then on a cloth. For a pint of oysters, add 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 
2 of salad oil, with salt and pepper to taste; mix well, and set it in 



SALADS 213 

the ice^cliest. Cut finely a pint of nice white celery, and mix with 
the oysters just before serving; arrange it on a salad dish, garnish 
with the white leaves of the celery, and pour over it a pint of mayon- 
naise dressing. 

SALMON SALAD — Put the meat of 1 can of salmon in a col- 
ander to drain; then carefully pick out any bones, skin, or unsightly 
bits. When well drained, put it in a bowl in the ice^chest until time 
to serve; make a mayonnaise dressing and keep that by itself in the 
ice-chest. Have ready the hearts of nice head4ettuce leaves in ice- 
cold water; just before serving put a heavy border of lettuce around 
the salad dish, cut the salmon finely, and place in the center; then 
pour the mayonnaise over the fish. Serve a few of the lettuce leaves 
with the salad to each person. The water from the lettuce must be 
thoroughly shaken off, or it will dilute the mayonnaise. Another 
way is to put 3 stalks of sliced celery into a salad bowl, add ^ lb. 
of canned salmon, arranging neatly. Use mayonnaise dressing, gar- 
nish and serve. 

SARDINE SALAD — Drain the oil from a small box of sardines, 
laying them afterward on brown paper so that no trace may re- 
main of the oil in which they are preserved. Eemove the skin and 
bones, and iDour a little lemon juice over them. Lay them on a bed 
of lettuce, pour a plain French dressing over them, and garnish 
with 2 hard-boiled eggs which have been chopped fine. 

SHRIMP SALAD — Take 1 can of shrimp, break them into 2 or 
3 pieces each, add 2 sticks of celery, cut small, and 1 bunch of let- 
tuce, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. Marinate the shrimps 
for 1 or 2 hours, after taking them from the can, if desired. 

FRUIT AND NUT SALADS. 

Note. — Combinations of oranges, pineapples, bananas and other fruits sweet- 
ened with sugar, are often erroneously called "fruit salads." Strictly speaking 
fruit salads are prepared with oil, and acid fruits, or those with a pronounced 
flavor, are the ones best adapted for salads. The combinations of fruits above 
referred to belong properly with desserts, for which they are intended, and in our 
chapter on "Desserts" (which see) we give a great variety of such dishes. 

AQUACATE SALAD — Pare the aguacate, cut it into thin rings 
add lettuce and sliced onion, if liked, and cover with a mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Aguaoate is a fruit which comes from the Vilest Indies, and is found in fruit 
stores dealing in foreign fruits. 

APPLE SALAD.— Take tart apples and slice them; chop young 
green onions, mis the two together, cover with a plain salad dressing 
and serve. 



214 - SALADS 

BARBERRY SALAD — Slice cucumbers, mix them with barber- 
ries, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. Or (2) chop young 
onions, mix them with barberries and cover with a plain salad 
dressing, 

CRANBERRY SALAD — Mix cranberries with chopped young 
green onions, and cover with a good salad dressing. 

CURRANT SALAD — Take nice tender lettuce, mix it with cur- 
rants and cover with a dressing made of 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 salt- 
spoon of pepper, and 3 tablespoons of salad oil. It is wholesome and 
refreshing. 

GOOSEBERRY SALAD. — Chop young onions, mix them with 
gooseberries, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. Or (2) 
Sliced cucumbers can be mixed with gooseberries, and covered with 
plain salad dressing. 

GRAPE FRUIT SALAD.— Peel the fruit, remove the bitter 
white membrane, slice it, and pour over it a mayonnaise dressing 
It makes a good salad. 

FRENCH FRUIT SALAD — Use 2 oranges, 3 bananas, 24 large, 
firm, white grapes, 12 walnuts, 1 head lettuce and 1 cup mayonnaise. 
Peel the oranges, divide into lobes, cut each lobe into 3 jpieces and 
remove the seeds. With a very sharp knife skin the grapes and seed 
them. Slice the bananas with a silver knife, and shell and halve the 
walnuts. Arrange the fruit on choice and delicate lettuce leaves, 
cover with 1 cup of mayonnaise dressing and serve ice cold. 

MELON SALAD. — Take ice cold muskmelons (have them on 
ice for 5 or 6 hours); oi)en them, scrape out the seeds, divide into 
crescents, cut ofp the rind and green part, leaving the fully ripe 
portion only; put these pieces in a bowl with bits of ice among them, 
pour on a French or mayonnaise dressing and serve. 

Watermelons which are lacking in sweetness may be served the 
same way. 

ORANGE SALAD — Peel the oranges, slice them crossways, take 
out the seeds, and cover with a dressing made in the proportion of 8 
spoons of salad oil to 1 spoon lemon juice, and add salt and a dash of 
cayenne; flavor, if desired, with a little grated orange rind. Excel- 
lent with cold game, roast pork or poultry. 

LEMON SALAD.— Make as directed for orange salad, but add a 
little lettuce, and sprigs of mint or tarragon, if you have it. 



SALADS 215 

LIME SALAD. — Make the same as directed for orange and 
lemon salad, only use limes instead of the other fruits. 

NUT SALAD — Mix together 1 qt. of shredded lettuce, and 2 
cups chopped nuts; dress with a little mayonnaise dressing, arrange 
in fresh lettuce, and garnish with more mayonnaise. 

WALNUT SALAD — Get the kernels as nearly whole as possible, 
and let them soak 2 hours in lemon juice; pick them out without 
draining, and serve on water-cress or lettuce, with French dressing. 



VEGETABLES. 



N abundance and variety of vei^etables are essential to perfect 
health. They furnish the mineral matters, alkalies and 
^X acids in which meat is deficient, and most of the carboliy 
drates needed by the system. 
The lack of fat in vegetables should be supi)lied by using butter, 
or some other form of fat, with them all. A moment's thought will 
show our readers that in arranging a dietary the object is to supply 
the lack of any element in one article of food, by using with it some 
other food containing the missing element. Although the foods in 
every-day use thus supplement each other, many people do not think 
of the principle involved. Why does butter go with bread? Because 
the gluten of the bread furnishes the albumenoid element needed by 
the body, while the starch supplies the carbohydrates, but bread it- 
self lacks fat, and the butter used supplies that. So meat and pota- 
toes go well together, the lean meat suj^plying the albumenoids, the 
potato the carbohydrates, and the fat or butter furnishes the fats, 
the 3 together thus supplying the body with" the 3 great food ele- 
ments which it needs. 

Vegetables when taken as food are valuable not only for the direct nourish- 
ment which they afford to the system, but also because they impart to the blood 
certain constituents which are necessary to maintain its highest purity. This has 
been amply proved by the appearance of such blood diseases as scurvy, etc., in cir- 
cumstances where vegetable food was not procurable for any length of time. Few 
people rightly estimate the value of vegetables to the system. One of the chiet 
benefits derived from eating them comes from the salts which they contain, while 
they also introduce into the system some water necessary for digestion and assimi- 
lation, and afford the benefit of variety in food. It is much to be regretted that by 
the method of cooking vegetables which commonly prevails in this country the 
greater part of their salts are dissolved out by the water in which they are cooked, 
and this water is thrown away, only the vegetable itself being eaten. There seems 
to be a common impression that the water in which many vegetables are boiled is 
poisonous, but this is a most erroneous idea. 

In this connection we quote from Mr. Mattieu Williams: "I must add a few 
words in advocacy of further adoption in this country of the French practice of us- 
ing aspotage{iov soups, etc) the water in which vegetables generally (excepting po- 
tatoes) have been boiled. When we boil cabbages, turnips, carrots, etc., we dissolve 
out of them a very large proportion of their saline constituents; salts which are 
absolutely necessary for the maintenance of health; salts without which we become 
victims of gout, rheumatism, lumbago, neuralgia, gravel, and all the ills that hu- 
man flesh with a lithic acid diathesis is heir to; i.e.. about the most painful series of 
all its inheritances." To which we may add the recommendation to save vegetable 
broth, and utilize it for soup, sauce, etc. A rich soup can be made from the water 
•in which potatoes have been boiled (if xvithout their skins) by mashing 2 or 3, and 
adding a little thickening and seasoning and a little butter. The juices of other 
vegetables like cabbage, turnips, celery and most others, are palatable and work 

216 



VEGETABLES 21^ 

well into soups. Onions are an exception; they should be used sparingly, as flavor- 
ing, for those who like them, but a dish of boiled onions, served with the water they 
are boiled in, causes distressing flatulence often. They can be parboiled, the water 
changed once, and then eaten by most people without unpleasant digestive disor- 
ders. 

All green vegetables are best when tliey are grown quickly, in 
which case they have less woody fibre. All green vegetables need to 
be eaten fresh. When fresh, vegetables will snap' crisply. Peas 
picked in the early moruing can be cooked the same day in about | 
the time needed if they are kept 1 or 2 days longer, and their flavor 
is much better. Ears of green corn that are just filled, will, if plung- 
ed into boiling water as soon as gathered, cook in 10 minutes, or 
perhaps less, and if kept 1 or 2 days twice as much time will be 
needed, and they will not then be as tender and fine flavored. 

Very few vegetables are roasted; they are generally boiled. 
Those which contain saccharine matter, such as carrots, beet-root, 
parsnips, etc., are best cooked by steam, as boiling water dissolves 
out a large quantity of their nutritious ingredients. Vegetables, 
however, which contain much starch, as a rule, are best boiled, as by 
boiling, the granules of the starch are ruptured and partially dis- 
solved, and any volatile oils which may be present are expelled, as 
well as the confined air. We elsewhere explain how much cooking 
adds to the digestibility of starch. 

All vegetables, with a few exceptions, should be put first into 
boiling water which contains salt in the proportion of an even tea- 
spoon to every 2 qts. of water; the exceptions are old, dry, and partly 
dried vegetables, such as peas, beans of all kinds, and wilted vege- 
tables; the latter had better be thrown away if they do not become 
crisp after standing a few hours in cold water. 

How to Boil Vegetables. — While in boiling meat, the great point is 
not to have the water boil, but to have it simmer instead, the great 
point in boiling vegetables is not to let the toiling stop. Even if the 
boiling water could be raised above 212° the vegetable would be 
rather improved than injured thereby. Have plenty of water, espe- 
cially for greens of all kinds. Choose a sufficiently large kettle, and 
get it |- full of boiling, water in ample time; then the water will come 
to a boil more quickly when the vegetables are thrown in, for when 
the cold vegetables are first put in they will check the boiling. The 
quicker vegetables boil the greener they will be, and remember that 
freshly gathered vegetables do not require as long boiling as those 
which have been long kept. Experience will best tell you when the 
vegetables are sufficiently cooked. The rule should be to cook them 
until they are soft and tender, hut no longer, because the starch cells 



218 VEGETABLES 

having then burst, they will begin to absorb water, and the vege- 
table will become soggy, and loose flavor as well. If not sufficiently 
done they are indigestible, and if left too long they become soggy. 
As soon as they are done, take them out and serve them. 

Remember then, that there is a right and a wrong way to boil 
vegetables. The essentials of the right way are: (l)'to put them 
into boiling water, which is slightly salted; (2) haw e plenty of it; (3) 
do not let the boiling sto2:> until they are done; (4) take them out as 
soon as they are done. The wrong way is the opposite of this — it is 
to use little water, let it simmer w^ithout really boiling, and to leave 
the vegetables in too long. If you will try the 2 methods once, the 
difference in the results and the superiority of the first method will 
be apparent. Asparagus, cauliflower and peas should boil, but the 
water should not bubble, as that tosses them around and breaks 
them. 

Time to boil. — The age of the vegetable and the time it has been 
gathered affects the time needed to boil it, so that it is impossible to 
give the exact time needed to boil different vegetables. When old 
and wilted, more time is needed than when young and fresh. The 
best rule is to test them by piercing them with a fork, watch them 
closely, and cook until they are soft and tender, but no longer. 

The Pbinciples Involved in Boiling Vegetables. — These are not generally 
understood. Each minute granule of starch, in its original state, is surrounded by 
a thin sheath of cellulose, much like the shell on a chestnut; this cellulose sheath is 
nearly insoluble in the digestive fluids, so that they cannot get at the starch inside. 
In boiling, the starch swells and bursts this sheath; the starch thus liberated is 
readily attacked by the digestive fluids, which turn it into sugar, and then it is as- 
similated by the system. The object therefore, in boiling any form of starch is 
merely to burst these cells, and that is best done by having the water as hot as 
possible, and by keeping it boiling actively as long as the article is in it. As soon 
as the starch cells burst, however, the vegetable should be taken out, as, if it is left 
in longer, the starch will absorb water and deteriorate. When starch is improper- 
ly cooked its digestion is very diflScult and much waste is caused the system, which 
is quite a loss even to one in good health; but for invalids it is particularly im- 
portant that the starch should be suitably cooked so as to be easily digested. The 
difference in the digestibility of different forms of uncooked starch is caused by 
the fact that the cellulose coating in some forms of starch is tougher than in others. 
When properly cooked, so that its cellulose sheath is burst open, all forms of 
starch are about equally digestible. 

In baking potatoes the heat of the oven causes the starch granules to swell and 
burst their sheaths, much as a chestnut or a grain of popcorn bursts open when 
roasted, thus liberating the starch. 

Overcoming the Odor of Boiling. — Various plans have been devised 
to mitigate the unpleasant odor caused by many vegetables while 
cooking. (1) Wrap a piece of bread about the size of a lemon in a 
cloth, and drop it in the kettle at the start; it wilt absorb the odor. 

(2) A lump of charcoal treated in the same way will alisorb the odor. 

(3) Fold a towel to 3 or 4 thicknesses and lay over the kettle. (4) 



VEGETABLES 219 

A piece of red pepper, ^ inch in diameter, dropped in at the start, is 
used by some cooks. The essential oils are dissolved out of the veg- 
etable while cooking, and from this oil the odor comes. If the water 
is changed once or twice while the vegetable is cooking, it will be an 
advantage, but be sure the fresh water is boiling hot when put in. 
Changing the water while cooking also gets rid of some unwholesome 
sulphuric gases given out by cabbage and onion. 

Effect of Different Waters. — Many cooks do not understand the dif- 
ferent effects produced by hard and soft water; peas and beans espe- 
cially should be cooked in soft water if possible to obtain it (see 
"Kain Water Cisterns"), as hard water containing lime and gypsum 
harden vegetable casein, making them less digestible. With some 
vegetables, soft water extracts most of their flavor and salts; but the 
addition of a little salt partially remedies this. 

Hints.— Be very careful to wash vegetables thoroughly, and exam- 
ine them for insects. Spinach should be allowed to float on water in 
a deep vessel and then lifted out with the hand and placed in deep 
water in another vessel, in order to free it from sand. 

Any vegetables which are peeled should be thrown into cold 
water until wanted for cooking, to prevent their turning color. 

When possible, it is much better to boil the different vegetables 
by themselves; also, when such vegetables as cabbage, carrots, beets, 
onions, potatoes, parsnips or turnips are boiled with meat, the flavor 
of both the meat and the vegetable is injured. Not only this, but it is 
also better to store vegetables separately. Certainly the strong scent- 
ed vegetables, like onions, leeks and cabbage, should be kept apart, 
for delicate vegetables will be spoiled in a short time, if near the 
strongly scented ones. * 

Vegetables are much -icer boiled in slightly salted water, and 
then, when seasoned with butter, they are usually salted sufficiently 
for most persons; the water being salted reaches a higher temi^erature 
before boiling, and secures better cookery of the vegetables. 

It is important that all vegetables should go to the table as hot 
as possible, and 2 or 3 two-qt. tin basins are good to keep them in 
until ready to put them on the table; or they may, if more conven- 
ient, be kept in the kettles they were boiled in. Have the vege- 
table dishes (that will not bear standing on the back of the range to 
keep hot) standing ready on a table with hot water in them. For 
common use, heavy white nappies are good for dishing up vegetables, 
as they will bear standing on the back of the range, or in the edge 
of the oven, with the door open. In dishing up vegetables, di-ain 
them thoroughly from the water. 



220 VEGETABLES 

Vegetables which contain much sugar, like beets, turnips 
squash, pumpkins, etc., especially if they are not of the best quality, 
are improved by the addition of a little sugar — a fact overlooked by 
many cooks. Boiling deprives them of jjart of their sweetness, so add 
a little. 

Vegetables like lettuce and cabbage, which contain potasl^ salts, 
are best eaten with a mild acid, like vinegar. It is usual to serve 
some condiment, like vinegar, salt, oil or pe^jper, with vegetables 
which are eaten raw, and which may therefore ferment in the stom- 
ach. 

When, by reason of long keeping, the freshness of salads, greens, 
roots, etc., has been somewhat lost, it may be restored by putting the 
stems and 7'oots in cold fresh water for 1 or 2 hours before dressing 
them, but the leaves should not be immersed, as that injures them. 

In winter, or after long keeping, tuberous vegetables like carrots, 
turnips, potatoes, etc., become wilted, and their flavor impaired; after 
peeling and slicing, let them stand in cold water for several hours 
before cooking them, and it will restore their freshness. 

To shell beans easily, pour upon the pods a quantity of scald- 
ing water, and the beans will slij) out very readily. 

In boiling suet dumplings, to be served with meat, like a vegeta- 
ble, put a plate at the bottom of the kettle, as, wlien first put in, they 
will sink, and sometimes stick at the bottom of the kettle and burn 
When they swell with boiling, they get light and float. Puddings 
are always boiled in a cloth. 

AKTICHOKES. 
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES— Wash the roots thoroughly, 
scrape off the skin, cut off 1 end flat, and leave the other pointed. 
Boil until soft, in water containing a little salt, and a few drops of 
vinegar. Cook until soft, but do not leave longer, or they will be- 
come hard again. Take them up carefully, put them in the vegeta- 
ble dish, and pour over them scalded cream, or serve with a white 
sauce. They can also be chopped coarsely and served as a salad, 
with a salad dressing. Time to boil about, 20 minutes. 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES.— Cut off the outside leaves, trim away 
the lower ones, and boil in salted water containing a few drops of 
vinegar; boil about 1 hour, drain, take out the choke, and serve with 
drawn butter poured over them. 

FRENCH ARTICHOKES, FRIED— Wash and trim the arti- 
choke heads, and cut them into thin slices; place in cold water with 
a little salt and vinegar added; this should be done 15 or 20 minutes 



VEGETABLES 221 

before frying them. Drain, and wipe tliem dry; make a batter with 
3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of salad oil, and 2 tablespoons of flour, seasoned 
with salt and pepper; mix the sliced artichoke thoroughly with the 
batter, then fry in hot fat, being careful that the artichoke is cooked 
through as well as browned. 

CANNED ARTICHOKES should be placed in ice-cold water for 
15 minutes before serving them. The dressing to accompany them 
IB made by mixing 2 large spoons of vinegar with 1 of chopped 
parsley, a little salt and pepper, and 8 spoons of good salad oil. 

Abtichokes. — There are two vegetables called by this name, both belonging to 
the order Compositce. The Jerusalem artichoke, {Helianthus tuberosus) is said to be 
a native of Brazil, but has long been naturalized in this country. Its name is a 
corruption of the Italian girasole (sunflower). The flowers are like the common 
sunflower, only smaller, and the roots, something like potatoes in shape and size, 
are cooked as a vegetable, and sometimes used for pickles. This plant is perren- 
nial, and when once planted in a rich soil can be dug early 
every spring; the small roots left in. the ground will keep 
the crop growing year after year. 

The globe, or French artichoke, so called (Cynara Scols- 
m.us) is a native of Asia, but is naturalizdd in this country. 
The flowerbuds and upper part of the stalks are used for a 
vegetable at table, and are cultivated from suckers placed in 
rows 3 feet apart. Artichokes contain 80^ of water; 2 of 
albumenoids; 16% carbohydrates; 0.5^ fats; 1$^ mineral mat- 
ters. 

The Cakdoon {Cynara Sardimculus) is a native of south- 
ern Europe, and much resembles the artichoke. It has pur- 
ple flowers, and is grown, blanched and eaten like celery. 

ASPAKAGUS. 

A LA FRANCAISE — Wash and boil the asparagus until tender 
— about 15 to 25 minutes; drain them, cut off the heads and about 2 
inches of the white part of the stalks; mince them with a knife, and 
mix them with a small onion cut finely; add the yolk of an egg well 
beaten, with salt and x^epper to taste; make it hot in a stew=i3an, and 
dish it up on a platter, with nicely browned, buttered toast. 

BUTTERED ASPARAGUS.— Pour boiling water over a bunch 
of asparagus, then untie the bundle and lay it in a large frying-pan; 
cover with boiling water, sprinkle on a very little salt, cover, and 
cook 20 or 30 minutes — do not cook until the heads break off. When 
done, pour off the water, lift the pieces carefully by the hard end of 
the stem, lay them in a flat vegetable dish, place bits of butter on the 
asparagus, set in the oven until the butter is melted, and send to the 
table. 

CREAMED ASPARAGUS.— Wash and cut asparagus in inch 
pieces until the hard part of the stem is reached, stew 15 minutes in 
slightly salted water; then drain in a colander. Make a rich cream 
sauce and pour over. Or use drawn butter. 




222 VEGETABLES 

STEAMED ASPARAGUS — There is another method of boiling 
asparagus, rarely practiced by American cooks. It is to take the 
stouter varieties, cut them of exactly equal lengths, and stand them 
on end in a deep sauce^pan, with the heads projecting about 2 inches 
out of the water; then cook 80 to 40 minutes. By this plan at least 
^ more of the stalk will be rendered delicious, while the head will be 
properly cooked by the steam. Then season, and serve. This is 
especially adapted to the "giant" and stouter varieties. 

Asparagus is a native of Europe, and is sometimes vulgarly called sjyarrow- 
grass. It is wholesome, but not very nutritious, and has been used in medicine, 
being a diuretic, and aperient. The cellular tissue contains a substance similar to 
sago. Its juice composed of a peculiar crystallizable principle called asparagin 
albumen, mannite, malic acid and some salts. 

To avoid getting the woody white part, which is not made tender by boiling, 
asparagus when gathered can be snapped off, instead of cutting it. 

BEANS. 

SHELLED — Shell, wash and boil until tender, adding salt 
after they have boiled about 10 minutes. If possible, always cook 
them in soft water. They should boil at least an hour. Season with 
salt and butter. Add hot cream to Lima or any white beans. 

FRENCH BEANS — Soak them over night, then parboil them 
until the skins loosen, change the water, and when they are cool, rub 
off the skins; put them back in the pot with fresh water to just cover 
them, and boil until they begin to break in pieces; then drain, 
sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and bits of butter. Set 
the dish in the oven to get hot; then send to the table. Time to boil 
if very young 10 to 12 minutes; if older 15 to 20 minutes. 

STRING BEANS.— The bean pods should be tender enough to 
snap off short when bent. Pull off the string on each side, and break 
in pieces | inch long. Boil in slightly salted water. A few thin 
slices of salt pork can be put in or not, as desired. It takes a full 
hour to cook them well, and may take 3 with some varieties. Drain, 
and season with butter and pepper or butter and cream, and a little 
more salt if needed. It is a good plan to change the water once 
while they are boiling, as that gets rid of part of an unwholesome 
gas which they yield in boiling. 

DELICIOUS BAKED BEANS.— Take about 3 pints of the small 
white beans, wash, and then soak them over night. Do not boil, but 
put at once in the baking dish and add a piece of salt pork that has 
been scalded, or if beef is preferred, use a piece of the brisket. Add 
salt, and a little pepper, and 2 or 3 tablespoons of molasses. Place in 
the oven, with i^lenty of water to cover, early in the morning, and let 



VEGETABLES 223 

cook all dny. Do not allow them to cook dry. A teaspoon of mustard 
is sometimes added with the molasses; it adds to both the flavor and 
wholesomeness of the beans when done. 

NEW ENGLAND BAKED BEANS.— Pick over and wash, 1 pint 
of beans, put them into 2 quarts of cold water and let them stand 
over night. The following morning drain off all the water, and put 
them into an earthen bean pot — which comes for this purpose — with 
2 tablespoons of molasses, a teaspoon of salt, a little pepper, half a 
pound salt pork — quite fat — and fill the pot up with boiling water 
and bake from 8 to 10 hours in a good steady oven; keep the pot well 
filled with water, till 2 hours before serving, and then allow it to 
simmer away one-half at least. You will find them delicious if di- 
rections are strictly followed. 

Beans are supposed to be a native of the East, particu- 
larly of Egypt, but have been known in Europe from time 
immemorial, having, in all probability, been introduced by 
the Romans. The common dwarf kidney bean, erroneously 
called the French bean, is a tender annual, a native of India, 
and was introduced into Enrope in 1597, or perhaps earlier. 
All varieties of the bean are wholesome and nutritious, but 
are not suitable to persons with delicate stomachs or of sed- 
entary habits. They are best eaten with fatty or starchy 
foods, like bacon or rice. If bean flour was to be had as 
wheat flour is, a much larger proportion of the nutrient 
parts of beans could bs assimilated, experiment having 
shown that 91% of bean flour was digested, and only 4:0% of fkench beans. 

the nutritive parts were assimilated as ordinarily prepared. 

If beans are well cooked and passed through a sieve, it will divest them of their 
indigestible skins, or cellulose. 

The Pulses, which include lentils, beans and peas, are among the most 
nourishing of foods. Owing to the large amount of nitrogenous matter which 
they contain, they should be accompanied, whon eaten, with articles in which fat 
and starch abound. The nutritive value of these articles is somewhat deteriorated 
by the fact that they are rather difficult of digestion. They sometimes occasion 
flatulence, and have a stimulating, heating effect on the system. They should 
never be eaten without being thoroughly cooked. 

BEETS. 

BOILED — These should be washed clean, and the tops and tips 
cut closely, but do not peel them nor prick the skin, as the juice will 
then escape and injure both the oolor and flavor. Cook until tender 
in boiling water Young beets will cook in about an hour; fully 
grown ones take 2 to 4 hours; the very largest are not suitable for the 
table, as they are apt to be tough and tasteless. When done, put them 
in cold water and rub off the rind; then slice, put in a vegetable 
dish, and cover with vinegar; or serve with a butter or white sauce. 
For a "boiled dinner'' cook them by themselves; they are peeled 
after cooking, cut in slices, and served without dressing. They are 
also cut in fancy pieces and used to garnish various dishes. They 
are also used for salads mixed with other vegetables. 




224 VEGETABLES 

CREAMED BEETS — First boil in imsalted water until ten- 
der; rub oil the skins with a wet towel, and serve at once in hot 
cream sauce, which can be made while they are boiling. (See 
"Cream Sauce.") 

BEET GREENS. — Beet greens are boiled whole, the beets with 
the tops, while they are young. Put into slightly salted boiling 
water, and boil for an hour. When the little beets are done, the 
tops are done also. Sometimes thin slices of salt pork are cooked 
with them. When done, take up into a colander and drain well, cut 
through several times with a knife, so that they can be served with 
a spoon, and send to the table in a vegetable dish. They are usually 
eaten with vinegar. If no pork is boiled with them, they can be 
seasoned with a little butter, and a very little vinegar, about a table- 
spoon to a medium=sized vegetable dish. They can be served hot ot 
cold. 

The beet roo.t is a native of the shores of the Mediterranean. It is wholesome 
and nutritious, and is chiefly characterized by the large amount of starch, sugar, 
und alkaline salts which it contains. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
BOILED — Pick off all dead or discolored leaves, and soak in 
cold salted water 1 hour before cooking; then put them in boiling 
water containing a little salt and soda, the latter to preserve their 
green color; leave the kettle uncovered, and boil briskly until tender. 
Drain and send to the table at once, as they cool quickly. Serve 
with melted butter or maitre d'hotel sauce. Time to boil, 10 to 15 
minutes. 

SAUTED — Take 1 qt. of sprouts, remove loose, hanging leaves, 
and soak ^ hour in cold water; then wash and boil 
^ hour in 2 qts. of water, adding 1 teaspoon of salt, 
after the first 10 minutes; then drain off all the 
water, and add 3 tablespoons of butter, 1 teaspoon of 
sugar, 1 teasjDoon of flour, \ teaspoon of pepper, and 
1 teaspoon of salt; shake the pan over the fire 3 or 4 
minutes, or until the sprouts are slightly colored. 
Serve at once in a warm dish. 

Brussels Sprouts is a variety of the cabbage, and is so 
named because the seed was obtained from Belgium in former bbussels spboutb. 
times. It grows from 3 to 5 feet in height, the stalk terminat- 
ing in a large, cabbage«like head, and the stem being covered with the sprouts. 

CABBAGE. 

BAKED — Boil a firm white cabbage for 15 minutes, changing 
the water once; drain and set aside until cold; then chop finely, and 




VEGETABLES 225 

j,dd 2 beaten eggs, butter the size of an egg, pepper and salt to taste; 
stir all together and bake in a buttered pudding^dish until brown. 
This is economical, good and nourishing. It is sometimes covered 
with bread crumbs, moistened with white sauce, and then baked. 
Time to bake, about \ hour. 

BOILED CABBAGE. — Cut it in quarters, soak 30 minutes in 
salted water; then boil rapidly, uncovered, until tender, hut no 
longer, in slightly salted water; push it down with a spoon as it rises 
above the water; it should boil in about 25 to 30 minutes. When 
done, take it up, drain, put it in a vegetable dish, and put bits of 
butter over it with a little salt. Kemember that the secret of boiling 
cabbage is to boil it rapidly, uncovered, and in plenty of water, and 
boil until tender, hut no longer. If boiled longer it becomes wilted, 
yellow, and loses flavor. Try cabbage thus cooked and see how 
much better it is than when cooked in the old way. If the water it 
is boiled in is not very soft, add to each 4 quarts of water 1 saltspoon 
of baking soda, but no more. 

FRIED CABBAGE. — Chop cold white cabbage quite fine; stir in 
some melted butter to taste, pepper and salt, and four tablespoons 
of milk or cream; after it is heated through add 1 or 2 welhbeaten 
eggs, according to quantity of cabbage; then turn the mixture into a 
well=buttered spider, and fry about 5 minutes, or until a light brown 
on the under side. Place a hot dish over the pan, which must be 
reversed when turned out to serve. 

CABBAGE AND MILK.— Cut the cabbage into very fine slices, 
take out the coarser veins carefully; put it in a tin sauce-pan, over 
a slow fire, add milk enough to cover entirely, and simmer very 
slowly 2 hours. Grate some nutmeg over it before serving, and add 
a good sized lump of butter. Thus cooked its coarseness disappears, 
and it almost equals cauliflower. Very few people know how good it 
is thus prepared. 

COLCANNON — Take equal parts of cold cabbage and cold pota- 
toes; cut all together well with a knife; fry salt pork, and when the 
pork i§ crisp, put the cabbage and potato into the fat; season with 
jiepioer, and a little more salt, if needed; cover closely with a plate 
and let it steam in the pan for |- hour. Do not stir it until you take 
it up, then stir all together, and serve hot, with the pieces of crisp 
pork around the edge of the platter. A little onion may be added to 
this, if liked. 

15 



226 



VEGETABLES 



A Hint. — The young white leaves of a white*hearted cabbage 
chopped fine, are a fairly good substitute for lettuce when the latter 



IS scarce. 



The botanical order, CrucifercB, is a most important one, in fnrnishing Tarious 
nitrogenous, and therefore highly nutritious dishes for our use; cabbage, cale, cau- 
liflower, brocoli, Brussels sprouts, turnips, all belong to this order. For salads 
and relishes we have cresses, pepper=grass, 8curvy=grass, wild pepper=root, rad- 
ishes, horseradish and cardamine. Cabbage contains 90^ of water, and is more 
wholesome than nourishing. Its tendency is to purify the blood, and it is partic- 
ularly serviceable in cases of skin disease, but should be avoided by all who are 
subject to flatulence and diarrhea. It is long in digesting, and is best fitted to 
robust and active persons. Cabbage eaten raw as a salad is more wholesome than 
when cooked. Cabbage and cauliflower contain more gluten than other vegeta- 
bles, and for that reason they should be eaten with fatty foods. A mild acid, like 
vinegar, aids their digestion. 

CAULIFLOWEK AND BKOCOLI. 

BOILED. — Out cauliflower where it begins to branch, place it, 
head down, in cold salted water for an hour; this will take out 
hidden insects if there are any; rinse it up and down several times. 
Put in a kettle with enough slightly salted boiling water to cover, 
and boil till tender — time 15 to 25 minutes according 
to size. Do not let the water bubble and boil so vio- 
lently as to make the cauliflower jump about, as that 
will break it. It is sometimes tied in a muslin bag; 
if not, skim the water. When done, put it in a colan- 
der to drain well, and at the same time keep it hot. 
Then cut it coarsely with a knife, put it in a vegetable 
dish, put a few lum^DS of butter over it, and send to 
the table. Or instead of the butter pour over either a 
bechamel, Hollandaise or cream sauce. It is used also 
for garnishing chicken or sweetbreads, or for salads. 

ESCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER.— Boil as directed 
above. Then put in a baking^dish, pour over a thick 
drawn butter sauce, sprinkle with bread crumbs, put in 
the oven and bake until brown — about 10 to 15 minutes. 
Sprinkle on grated cheese, also, before baking, if 
desired. 

BROCOLI — This, both white and purple, is only a 
variety of the cauliflower, and is cooked in the same ways. 

Caulifoweb is only a form of the wild cabbage in its cultivated state. Cauli- 
flower has been known since the times of the Greeks and Romans. It is a whole- 
some, but not particularly nourishing, article of food; it is difficult of digestion, 
and ought to be avoided by those who have delicate stomachs, but, on the whole, 
it is less indigestible and richer in flesh=formers than cabbage. 




OAULIFLOWEB. 





VEGETABLES 227 

CAEROTS. 

BOILED. — Wash, scrape, not pare, cut into strips, barely cover 
with boiling water, and as soon as they begin to boil put in a little 
butter; as soon as tender add some minced parsley and serve. They 
need to boil longer than most vegetables. Time, 1 hour or more 
according to age. They are often boiled with corned beef. 

Another way is to cut lengthwise, boil until 
soft and slice thin. Put in sauce^pan with 2 
tablespoons of butter and 1 cup of milk. Season 
with salt, pepper and a little sugar; stew 15 min- 
utes and serve. 

CARROTS WITH CREAM.— Cut the carrots 
in thin slices; boil in water until almost tender; 
then pour the water off and add butter; fry them a 
little; then add a few spoons of cream; season 
with salt and pepper and serve very hot. 

OABKOIS. 

Carrots grow in all parts of the globe. They are one of 
the most important vegetables used in domestic cookery, and their flavor renders 
them valuable in soups, stews and sauces, but they are not particularly nourishing 
as it requires 2 lbs. of carrots to produce 1 oz. of the nitrogenous substance of 
muscle and flesh. They contain pectine (a gelatinous substance) instead of starch, 
and hence soups containing them become gelatinous when cold. For 1 part of 
flesh=formers they contain 10 of heatsgivers. 

CELERY. 

Many people throw away the outside green stalks of celery, not 
knowing that it makes a very savory dish when stewed. Take all the 
fine white stalks, wash well and serve; the remainder break into 
short pieces, pulling off all the stringy outside. Put the pieces in a 
stew=pan, cover well with boiling water, and boil ^ hour. Make a 
cream or drawn butter sauce, pour it over the celery, and serve. 

BAKED CELERY — Take a qt. of veal stock, and, having par- 
boiled a proper amount of the stalks, put them into a baking=dish. 
Rub together 2 spoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour, smoothly, then 
beat in the yolks of 3 eggs, and stir these into the veal broth, and 
pour it over the celery. Lastly, cover the top with finely grated 
bread crumbs, and then with grated cheese. Bake 10 minutes in a 
quick oven. This is one of the most delicious forms in which celery 
can be put upon the table. 

FRIED CELERY — After cutting it into inch lengths, and boil- 
ing till tender in slightly salted water, dip the pieces in fritter batter 
and fry in smoking hot fat. Garnish with parsley, and serve with 




228 VEGETABLES 

tomato sauce. Or sprinkle the pieces with salt and nutmeg; then 
egg and bread=crumb them and fry the same way; 
drain on a sieve and serve on a napkin. 

Celsry grows wild nearly all over Europe, growing chiefly 
in ditches and marshes near the sea, and when wild is called 
Smallage. Smallage was first cultivated by Italian gardeners 
and the result of their labors was the production of two plants, 
Celery and Celeriac. The latter variety (often, also, called Ger- 
man or knob celery) is turnip=shaped, and large, and is exten- 
sively used by the Germans, who prefer it to the variety we 
commonly use. In its raw state, it is not suited to persons of 
weak stomachs, but is more easily digested when cooked. 
Celery has medicinal properties, and is used as a corrector of 
bilious conditions, and as a tonic for the nervous system. It 
contains about 93 per cent, of water, 1 of albumen, 2 of sugar, 1 
of mineral matter, and 2 of starch, etc. celeby. 

CORN. 

BOILED. — Green corn when in proper condition for boiling 
should be well filled out, but still in the milk, so that it will exude 
freely when pressed with the nail. It should be put when freshly 
gathered into slightly salted boiling water, and as soon as its milk 
thickens, and the raw taste is gone, it should be taken up, as longer 
cooking hardens it and injures its flavor. Corn for fritters, pud- 
dings, etc., may be a trifle older, but never out of the milk. 

To cut corn from the cob the best way is to stand it on the small 
end, and with a sharp knife cut off about half the kernel ; then with 
the back of the knife press and scrape out the remainder with a 
downward stroke. If scraped with the sharp edge it will carry many 
of the hulls with it, and they are not wanted. This is the best 
method of cutting ofP corn for canning or any purpose. 

DRIED CORN — Select corn that is right for boiling, and boil 5 
minutes in slightly salted water; then cut and scrape from the cob as 
above, and dry in the oven in shallow pans or on plates. Pack in 
paper bags, and hang in a dry place or it will mold. It sours easily, 
and the drying process should not be long. To use it, soak over 
night, and then cook like green corn. Season with butter, cream, 
pepper and salt to taste, and serve. 

BAKED CORN — Take 48 full ears of sweet corn, cut and scrape 
from the ears as above, and then pound in a mortar; add (according 
to the juiciness of the corn) 3 or 4 cups of milk, 4 well beaten eggs, 
^ teacup butter, the same of flour rubbed fine in a little milk, 1 
tablespoon of sugar, and salt to taste. Pour into a well greased 
earthen dish, bake 2 hours till browned on top, and place on the 
table hot. Eat with plenty of fresh butter. 



VEGETABLES 229 

CORN CHOWDER.— Take 1 can of corn, -er the same amount of 
green corn cut from the cob, 2 oz. pork fried brown and chopped, 6 
potatoes sliced thin, 1^ quarts water; cook until the potatoes are 
done — about 25 minutes; then add 2 cups milk, and butter and salt 
to taste. 

ESCALLOPED CORN. — Cut corn from the cob, spread a layer in 
a basin, season, put on a layer of sliced tomatoes, season, and so on 
with alternate layers, seasoning each layer; then fill the dish with 
rich milk in which a little soda is dissolved, and bake 1 hour. 

FRIED CORN. — Select roasting ears, cut the corn from the cob, 
add salt and pepper, put it in a large pie=tin containing hot butter, 
set where it will cook slowly, and fry, stirring it often. If it should 
stick to the pan add a very little water, but not otherwise. 

' ^ CORN OYSTERS — Cut the corn from 6 ears, add to it 1 well 
beaten egg, 1 tablespoon of sweet milk, a little salt, and then flour 
enough to make a pretty stiff batter; drop a spoonful at a time into 
smoking hot fat, and fry a delicate brown. 

GREEN CORN PUDDING.— Take the pulp from 2 doz. ears of 
corn, 1-| quarts of new milk, 2 crackers rolled fine, 3 eggs, 2 teacups 
sugar, and a little salt. Mix the crackers with the milk, then put in 
the corn and other ingredients; bake slowly 2^ hours. Serve warm 
with butter and pepper. 

CORN SOUFFLE — Take 2 cups of canned corn, 2 cups of milk, 
2 eggs, salt to taste. Beat the eggs until very light; add the other 
ingredients; put the mixture in a buttered pudding-dish, and bake 
about 40 minutes 

STEWED CORN. — Cut young corn from the ear, put it in a 
basin, cover it with milk, and cook ^ hour, stirring it frequently; 
then season to taste, with butter, pepper and salt, add some rich 
cream in which a little corn=starch is stirred, and serve. 

SUCCOTASH — Boil or steam the corn and cut it from the cob; 
allow 2 cups corn for 1 cup beans. Any good, fresh shelled beans 
may be used; they should be boiled by themselves, in slightly salted 
water, until they begin to break; then drain them in the colander, 
mix them with the corn, and season to taste, with cream, butter, 
pepper and salt. 

Indian corn is a native of America, where it was cnltivated by the aborigines 
before the discovery of America by Columbus. There are many varieties of the 
plant, and the grains vary in color, but the yellow is the most common. Although 
ti is deficient in gluten it is richer than other grains in oily and fatty matter; hut 



230 VEGETABLES 

the constituent elements of the different varieties vary a good deal. It is highly 
nutritious, and rivals rice and sugar cane in its importance to the human family. 
It is a very important article of consumption alike for man and beast. Owing to 
its lack of gluten it is not sufficiently sticky to hold together well, and so does not 
make good bread. Corn=meal is not suitable for an exclusive diet, but it makes a 
very valuable addition to our food resources, and is more fattening than wheat 
flour. 

CUCUMBERS. 

These are usually served raw, cut in slices, and served with 
pepper, salt and vinegar, and onions are sometimes added. Three 
or 4 hours before serving they should be peeled, sliced and placed 
in a large bowl of water to stand 1 or 2 hours; then the water 
should be poured off, and fresh, cold water added, and just before 
sending to the table, the water should be changed again. Serve in 
salad dishes, and send around with them, salt, black pepper, vinegar 
and oil, to be added by each person as preferred. Thus served, 
they are not so likely to prove indigestible as when served, as they 
sometimes are, by slicing wilted cucumbers a few minutes before a 
meal, sending to the table in the first water they are placed in, and 
strong vinegar and salt added to that, which causes them to wilt 
still more; served in the latter way, it is no wonder that people 
say, " I cannot eat cucumbers — they always distress me." 

BOILED. — After paring the cucumbers, and slicing about | inch 
thick, boil them about 12 minutes in slightly salted water, con- 
taining a little vinegar. Serve with drawn butter or Hollandaise 
sauce. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS — Peel and slice them, and soak in cold 
water an hour; this takes out the gummy qualities of the plant; 
then drain and dry the slices on a cloth; dip the pieces in egg, 
then in flour, and fry a delicate brown in smoking hot fat. 

STEWED CUCUMBERS — Peel and slice fresh young cucum- 
bers, and soak them an hour in cold water; then put them in a 
stew=pan with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them boil 
until soft — about ^ hour; then take off the cover, to let them dry 
down a little, dredge in a little flour, to thicken the water they were 
stewed in, add a piece of butter, with seasoning of salt and pepper. 
Sweet cream can be used instead of butter, if one has it, and it is 
much better. 

The cucumber is a native of Asia, and it has been cultivated from very early 
times. It is not very nutritious, and, generally speaking, it is not suited to weak 
stomachs, as it is indigestible and disagrees with many when eaten raw, but when 
stewed, it is light and wholesome. It contains about })f) per cent, of water, some 
grape sugar, and a little volatile flavoring matter. 



VEGETABLES 231 

EGG PLANT. 

BAKED. — Pare, slice and boil till tender, in slightly salted 
water; then drain, masli, and add bread crumbs soaked in milk, 
and season with salt, pepper, a little butter and minced parsley; 
beat together, put into a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle bread 
crumbs on top, and bake a nice brown. Time, altogether, about 1\ 
hours. 

FRIED — Cut in slices without paring, sprinkle on salt, pile 
them up, and weight them with a flat-iron or other weight; let stand 
about an hour and it will squeeze out much of their bitter flavor; 
rinse them off in cold water, drain, dip in cracker or bread crumbs, 
then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again, and fry brown in a fry- 
ing-pan. They are sometimes dipped in- batter and then fried. 

Egg Plant belongs to the order Solanaceoe, which includes also tobacco and 
potatoes. All varieties of this order contain a bitter, more or less poisonous juice. 
The egg plant is indigenous to the East Indies. There are several varietes; one 
of which is the Dead Sea apple. 

ENDIVE. 

STEWED ENDIVE — Wash and free 6 heads of endive thor- 
oughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves, and put it 
into boiling water slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; 
then take it out, drain until there is no water remaining, and chop it 
very fine. Put it into a stew-pan with 1 pint of broth; add a little 
salt and a lump of sugar, and boil until the endive 
is perfectly tender. When done, it may be ascer- 
tained by squeezing a piece between the thumb 
and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour, and 
1 tablespoon of lemon juice; let the sauce boil up, 
and serve. Time to boil, 10 to 15 minutes. 

Endive is said to be a native of China and Japan. 
It has long been cultivated as a garden vegetable, and 
used for salads and soups. It is slightly narcotic, and has 
a bitter taste, on account, of which some people dislike it 
very much while those who like it call it a fine bitter. 

GKEENS. 

Dandelions are most commonly used for greens, either alone or 
mixed with other herbs, as plantain, young milk-weeds, scurvy=grass, 
beet^tops, horseradish tops, and the young shoots of poke or gorget; 
the roots of the latter plant are a violent cathartic, and should never 
be used. Wash and examine all herbs used for greens, and then 
boil them till tender in slightly salted water. A little baking soda 
added to the water in which the greens are cooked will preserve 




232 VEGETABLES 

their color, and it also softens the cellulose. Salt pork is commonly 
boiled with them, but they are rather more wholesome boiled with- 
out it. When done, drain them in a colander, and while draining 
cut them through and through in every way, to facilitate serving 
them; then put them on a platter, season with butter and salt, and 
Bend vinegar around with them. If salt pork is boiled with them, 
slice it, and use it to garnish the greens instead of the butter. 
Greens are usually eaten in the spring, and are chiefly valuable for 
their alkaline salts and water. 

KOHLRABI. 

Peel, cut it in two, and then slice thin; put into salted water, 
parboil, and then drain; then stew it in some weak broth; when 
nearly done, shred some of the green leaves growing at the top, 
and add them; they will tinge it a light green. When tender, drain 
out the kohlrabi. Make a bechamel sauce with the liquid in which 
it is cooked, pour it over the vegetable, let it get hot, and serve. 
Time, 15 to 25 minutes. 

Kohlrabi is a cultivated variety of the cabbage, distinguished by the swelling 
in a globular form of that part of the stem which is just above the ground. 
This protuberance is the part used, its uses being similar to the turnip. It is only 
fit to use when young, being then wholesome, nutritious and palatable; later it 
contains much indigestible fibrous matter. It is very valuable, also, as food for 
cattle. 

LETTUCE. 

If lettuce has become wilted in the market, let it stand with 
the stems in a bowl of cold water for several hours before using, to 
become crisp again. Just before serving, wash carefully, then shake 
off the water, tear it in small pieces, as it is more convenient to 
serve in that way. It should never be cut with a knife. Pile it in 
a glass dish, and serve on salad dishes, or small plates. Vinegar 
and sugar is sometimes used for a dressing, or oil and vinegar, salt 
alone, French salad dressing, or mayonnaise if preferred. It is deli- 
cious served with lemon juice, using sugar also if liked. 

FRIED LETTUCE — Chop lettuce and the tops of 2 onions 
fine, add 2 welhbeaten eggs, put a little salad oil or butter into a 
frying-pan, and pour in the mixture well beaten; cover, stir up 
when well heated, and serve with vinegar or lemon juice, or without 
either, .according to taste. 

STEAMED LETTUCE.— Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce- 
pan, add vinegar and 1 well beaten egg; stir well together, and add 
the leaves from 2 large heads of lettuce, cover, and let it steam until 
the lettuce is well wilted; serve hot. 



VEGETABLES 233 

Lettuce is snppoeed to be a native of the East Indies, but it has been cultiva- 
ted in Europe from very early times. It is wholesome and has a particularly 
pleasant taste. It is said to have a sedative action on the nervous system, which 
allays pain and induces sleep. Those who have no tendency to apoplexy, and who 
are troubled with wakefulness may be recommended to eat lettuce at supper. It 
contains little nutriment, being d6% water. It contains about 1% of mineral mat- 
ters (especially nitre), which are useful. 

MAOAEONI, SPAGHETTI AND VEKMICELLI. 
BOILING MACARONI.— Do not wash macaroni, as that extracts 
part of its nutrients. After breaking it into suitable lengths put it 
into plenty of boiling water, slightly salted, and boil actively until it 
is done; most cook books say to boil it 15 to 20 minutes, but you will 
find it better if you boil it ^ to f hour, but do not boil it too long or 
it will logiB its nutritive qualities; then drain in a colander, pour on 
cold water, which will prevent its sticking, then spread the strips 
beside each other and cut them all at once into pieces about an inch 
long, which is better than leaving them in unweildy lengths. 

BAKED MACARONI — Boil and prepare as above directed; then 
butter a baking^dish, put in the macaroni, cover with bread crumbs, 
pour a little melted butter on top, bake in a moderate oven 5 min- 
utes, and serve. 

FRIED MACARONI — Boil the macaroni as above, and grate 
cheese. Take the cold macaroni, make it into little balls with the 
cheese, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in smoking hot fat to a 
rich brown. 

MACARONI WITH CHEESE.— Boil i lb. and prepare as above 
directed; then make a sauce with 1^ cups hot milk, and 1 tablespoon 
each of butter and flour, and salt to taste. Then in the bottom of 
the baking^dish put a layer of grated cheese, put on a layer of maca- 
roni, and cover with the sauce; then other layers of cheese, macaroni 
and sauce; put fine bread crumbs on top, dot with bits of butter and 
a little grated cheese, and bake until the top is browned. Time, 
about 20 minutes. 

MACARONI WITH MILK SAUCE— Boil and prepare the 
macaroni as above; make a sauce with 1 cup milk thickened with a 
dessertspoon of butter and flour rubbed together, and a little salt-, 
after it has boiled a few moments drop in the macaroni, and in 5 
minutes, dish up and serve. 

SPAGHETTI — Boil this the same as macaroni, only it does not 
need to cook quite as long, and drain and pour on cold water the 
same. Out it or not as you prefer. It can be treated otherwise 
much the same as macaroni. 

Vermicelli is treated the same as spaghetti. 



234 VEGETABLES 

Macaboni is a particular form of wheaten flour. It is made by selecting th 
finest flour, making it into a paste with water, then pressing it through holes o 
molds in a metal plate, or stamping it to the desired form, then drying or baking 
it. When properly dressed it is pleasant and wholesome, but not so easy of diges- 
tion as some other wheaten preparations. It is nutritious, however, and if well 
cooked deserves au extensive use. Butter and cheese go well with it, as the butter 
supplies the fat it lacks, and cheese adds the albumenoid element in its casein. 

VEEMioEiiLii and Spaghetti are prepared in the same way as macaroni, only 
they are pressed through smaller holts, making them a little smaller round. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Never be content with wiping, but always wash mushrooms, 
thoroughly, and dry with a cloth. They should be cooked soon after 
being gathered, for as soon as decay begins they are unfit for food* 
To this cause alone many of the cases of illness caused by them can 
be attributed. The trimmings are useful for flavoring gravies, 
soups, ragouts, etc. 

MUSHROOMS, FRIED.— Peel, cut o& the stalks, and place them 
in the frying-pan with a little butter; fry gently until they are quite 
tender; season with pejoper and pour the contents of the frying-pan 
over them. If desired put them on buttered toast before pouring on 
the gravy. 

ESCALLOPED MUSHROOMS.— Take 3 cups chopped mush- 
rooms and 2 cups cracker crumbs, rolled fine. Put a layer of cracker 
crumbs into a pudding-dish, then a layer of mushrooms; sprinkle 
with salt and add bits of butter. Add alternate layers of crackers 
and mushrooms thus, finishing with crackers. Then pour on 1 cup 
cream, and bake in a moderate oven about 1 hour. 

MUSHROOM PIE — Cut fresh agarics in small pieces; add pep- 
per, salt, and place them on small shreds of bacon in the bottom of a 
pie dish; cover with mashed potatoes, and so add alternate layers, 
having potato on top. Bake well ^ hour, and brown before a quick 



MUSHROOMS EN RAGOUT — Put into a sauce=pan a little 
"stock," vinegar, parsley, salt, spices, and green onions chopped up; 
when about to boil put in the cleaned mushrooms; when done till 
tender, remove from the fire and thicken with yolks of eggs. 

MUSHROOMS ON TOAST — Put 2 cups mushrooms into a stew» 
pan with 2 oz. butter rolled in flour; add 1 teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon 
each of white pepper and grated lemon peel and a blade of powdered 
mace; stew until the butter is absorbed and the mushrooms tender. 
Serve at once on toast. Garnish with lemon. 



VEGETABLES 235 

CANNED MUSHROOMS.— Take 1 can mushrooms, add 2 tea- 
spoons melted butter with flour and salt; heat in a double boiler 
thoroughly. Stir in 1 beaten egg and 3 tablespoons of cream just 
before serving. 

Our Colored Illustrations. 

Fig. I — The Morel (Morchella esculenta). This mushroom is 
found in April and May in grassy places on the borders of fields and 
the raised banks of streams, sometimes in fir or chestnut forests and 
in hilly countries. 

Cooking them. (1) Eemove the butt of the stem and wash and dry 
carefully. Out large ones in small pieces, and split small ones. 
Pour on boiling water, set on stove 5 minutes and then drain. Then 
gently stew 1 hour in a little water; then add a little soup stock, pej)- 
per, salt and butter, and onion if liked, and cook a few minutes. 
Serve on buttered toast. Garnish with slices of lemon. (2) Fill 
them with a forcemeat of seasoned bread and wrap them in thin 
slices of salt pork or bacon ; bake in the oven 30 to 40 minutes, or 
slowly stew 1 hour in good broth, (3) Escallop them as directed 
above for mushrooms. 

Fig. 2 — Meadow Mushroom {Agaricus campestris). This vari- 
ety grows in open grassy places in fields and rich pastures, but never 
in thick woods. They are fall mushrooms. Cooking. (1) To fry, 
scald a few seconds, dry with a cloth, dredge with flour seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and fry 5 or 6 minutes in smoking . hot fat. Serve 
hot. (2) They can be boiled and then they make desirable additions 
to soups, gravies, ragouts, etc. (3) Stewed with butter, spice, pars- 
ley, salt, pepper, lemon juice and sweet herbs it goes well with steak 
or mutton chops. (4) Escallop as directed above for mushrooms. 
(5) It makes a fine catsup. 

Fig. 3. — Chanterelle {Cantharellus cibarious). This variety is 
generally found in light woods and high situations, and it grows in 
great abundance. For cooking, choose crisp, heavy ones rather than 
light soft ones, as they are less likely to become leathery. They are 
sometimes soaked in milk over night to make them tender. To stew, 
cut them across and remove the stems; put them into a closely cov- 
ered saucespan, with a little butter, and stew till tender at the lowest 
possible temperature; great heat destroys the flavor. As they are 
rather dry and tough, long, slow stewing is needed, with plenty of 
liquid. 

Fig. 4. — Hedgehog or Spine Mushroom {Hydmim rcpaudinn). 
This is the most desirable species of the genus Hydnum. It may be 
stewed in brown or white sauce, cooking slowly and for a long time; 
as it is naturally deficient in moisture keep well supplied with liquid. 
This species is easily i3reserved and may be kept a long time. 

Fig. 5. — Horse Mushroom {Agariciifi avvcusis). This variety 
is found in the fields and pastures in autumn. Its flesh is firm ami 
delicious and yields an abundant gravy* 



236 VEGETABLES 

Fig. 6.— The Oyster Mushroom {Agaricus ostreatus). This va- 
riety is found on dead tree trunks in the fall. It can be cooked in 
any of the usual ways given above for mushrooms, but is belter cook- 
ed over a slow fire. 

Fig. 7.— Orange Milk Mushroom (Ladarius deliciosus). This 
variety is found in swampy woods and in forests of fir and pine. Its 
flavor when cooked is thought to resemble kidney stew. It requires 
delicate cooking, as, if kept over the fire until its juice evaporates it 
becomes tough. It is probably best baked. 

Fig. 8. — Edible Pore Mushroom {Boletus edulis Bull). This va- 
riety is found chiefly in the woods, especially of pine, oak and chest- 
nut. It is most abundant in autumn, but is found in spring and 
summer. Its flesh is tender and juicy and it requires less cooking 
than some of the tougher varieties. It can be (1) broiled; or (2) 
stewed in white sauce with or without chicken in fricassee; or (3) 
escalloped as directed above for mushrooms. 

Fig. 9. — The Plum Mushroom {Agaricus prunulus). This va- 
riety grows in and near damp woods. The flesh is firm, juicy and 
full of flavor. It may be (1) broiled; or (2) stewed, and is then de- 
licious. 

Mushrooms belong to the genus Agaricus, and over 1000 different species are 
known. The season for mushrooms extends from spring well into autumn. They 
are highly nitrogenous and some varieties contain much fat or oil; when dried 
about % their weight is nitrogenous. They are admirably adapted for human con- 
sumption, no other class of vegetables containing in a higher degree the elements 
needed for nutrition. Many people are prejudiced against their use because there 
are so many poisonous varieties, and the inexperienced cannot readily distinguish 
between them. It is probable that in the future they will become a more import- 
ant article of food than at present. The fresh are better than the canned, but it is 
better in gathering them to be guided by some one who unerringly knows the edi- 
ble varieties, than to trust to any written description. Any mushroom having 
an offensive smell, or a bitter, astringent, or even unpleasant flavor, is unfit for 
food. 

OKKA. 

BOILED. — Use only that which is young and tender; wash care- 
fully, so as not to break the skins for the mucilage to escape. After 
washing, take off the stems and boil until quite soft, in water con- 
taining a little salt. When done, drain in the colander, place in the 
dish in which it is to be sent to the table, season with pepper and a 
little more salt; then pour over it butter sauce, or hot cream. Cook 
okra in porcelain lined or tin vessels, as iron colors it black. Time 
to boil, 1 hour or more. 

The Okra is a species of manow (the Hibiscus esculentus) possessing mucilagen- 
ous seed pods which are valuable for soups and stews. The dishes thus formed are 
healthful and nutritious, and are quite popular in the South and in France. The 
ripe seeds are sometimes used to adulterate coffee, and form one of its least ob- 
jectionable adulterations. Use the pods when young and tender; when over 3 
inches long, they become tough and stringy. 



VEGETABLES 237 

ONIONS. 

Onions, as has been said elsewhere, should not be cooked with 
other vegetables, nor should the kettle in which they are cooked be 
used for other foods, as the odor of the onions clings tenaciously to 
the kettle for a long time after using it for that vegetable. So many 
people dislike onions, and others who like them do not eat them for 
other reasons, that great care should be taken in this respect. 
Remember the caution about using them in soups, when you are not 
sure of the tastes of the partakers ; boil the onions separately, in the 
oniowkettle, and add them, at the time of serving, to the soup of 
those who like them. 

When peeling and slicing onions, hold the hands under water 
and they will not then affect the eyes. After peeling onions the 
smell may be taken from the hands by rubbing them with celery. 

It is said that after eating onions, the odor may be overcome by 
eating a little parsley. 

Onions, carrots and turnips should be cut across the fibre in 
rings, instead of being split the other way, as they will then cook 
tender more quickly. The rank flavor of onions may be relieved by 
soaking them for an hour before cooking, in warm salt water. 

PLAIN, BOILED ONIONS — Pour on boiling water, and take 
off the skins (use those of medium size, as the largest ones can be 
sliced for frying, and the smallest can be used for soups, if liked). 
Boil them in salted water, changing it once or twice during the 
process; when done soft, take them out with a fork, or drain them, 
put in a vegetable dish, sprinkle on salt, pepper, and bits of butter, 
which will be melted by the heat of the onions, and serve. Time to 
boil, about | hour. 

ONIONS A LA BORDEAUX.— Parboil medium sized onions, 
then drain the water from them; put them in a kettle with butter the 
size of an egg, a little salt, and use stock, gravy or water, to moisten 
them; simmer them until tender, and the sauce is reduced; add the 
juice of a lemon, and send to the table hot. 

ONIONS WITH CREAM.— Skin the onions and cut them in 
small pieces and put them into a sauce^pan with a piece of butter 
and a little water, and let them cook thoroughly. Strain them and 
put them back into the sauce-pan, with a piece of butter; when this 
is melted, stir in a little flour, pepper and salt, and just before serv- 
ing, a small quantity of cream. When this is added, the sauce must 
on no account be allowed to reach boiling point. Milk can be used 
in place of cream. Time, altogether, about ^^ hour. 



238 VEGETABLES 

ESCALLOPED ONIONS — Boil the onions till quite soft, chang- 
ing the water twice. Butter a deep baking=dish, and put in a layer 
of onions just pulled apart in bits, but not chopped; season with bits 
of butter and a little salt; then add a layer of bread crumbs or 
crushed crackers, season to taste, and moisten with milk. Then put 
in alternate layers of onions and crumbs, seasoning each layer, till 
the dish is full; finish with the bread crumbs. Moisten the last layer 
very thoroughly with milk; bake | hour in a hot oven. 

Escalloped, No. 2. — Lay an onion, sliced, and fried brown in but- 
ter, in the bottom of a baking=dish; put a layer of cold boiled rice 
next, well moistened with an equal quantity of stewed tomatoes, and 
cover the whole with a layer of crumbs, wet with milk. Set in the 
oven till heated through and brown on top. The rice and tomatoes 
should be previously seasoned. 

FRIED ONIONS — If the onions are large, cut them in quarters 
first, then across in small pieces. The small ones may be cut in 
rings; put them in a spider, with a little dripping, or salt pork fat, to 
keep them from sticking; cover for 10 minutes, to partly stew them, 
then uncover and stir them until they are a nice yellowish brown. 
Butter may be used in frying onions, if preferred, but anything fried 
with butter must be closely watched, as it is more apt than other fat 
to scorch. 

SPANISH ONIONS, FRIED.— Heat 2 tablespoons butter in the 
frying=pan till smoking hot; put in 2 lbs. Spanish onions, peeled and 
sliced, add 1 teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne and a little black pep, 
per; cook until tender, stirring constantly; then serve on toast 
Pour over them the gravy they form in cooking. 

The onion belongs to the natural order Allium, which includes also the leek, 
garlic and shallot. It is supposed to be a native of India, or Egypt, in both of 
which it has been grown from very early times. In Egypt, it was an object of 
worship. Of all the flavoring substances used in cookery, it is the most valuable, 
next to salt. The onion possesses strong irritant and excitant properties, and ie 
diuretic, expectorant and stimulating. It is believed to promote sleep, and 1h 
usually considered very nutritious, but opinions differ on this point. They are not 
suited to all stomachs, and some cannot eat them fried or roasted, while others 
prefer them boiled, by which process they are deprived of their essential oil 
Some authorities claim for them medicinal qualities of a high order, and advise 
their more general use. The strong smell comes from a volatile oil, rich in 
sulphur. 

Sj)anish Onions are large, white, and delicate in odor and flavor. They can be 
used to flavor other vegetables, or used as a salad when cut in thin shavings. 
They can also be baked, boiled or fried, and served as a vegetable. 

PARSNIPS. 

BOILED — Wash and scrub well, and boil until tender in salted 



VEGETABLES 239 

water; tlien put them into cold water and the skins will easily rub 
off. Then cut them up and serve in a bechamel or white sauce, 
letting them steep in it a little while before serving. Time to hoil, 
if small, ^ to 1 hour; if large 1 to 1| hours, 

PARSNIP BALLS.— Boil as above and take off the skins; then 
mash smooth, removing any tough fibre; add salt, pepper, a little 
flour, and well-beaten egg; form into balls, and fry in smoking hot 
fat. 

FRIED PARSNIPS. — Boil and skin as above; when cold, slice 
them and saute in butter or salt pork fat. Season with salt and Dep- 
per, and serve hot. 

STEWED PARSNIPS — Wash and scrape them clean, then cut 
them in little pieces about ^ an inch square, put them in a kettle 
with just sufficient water to cover them, with a trifle of salt and a lit- 
tle pepper. When they are done, take off the cover, and let the 
water they were boiled in evaporate, so that there will be none to 
turn off, and they will brown a little; do not stir them until you 
take them up; then add a generous piece of butter (remember the 
old adage, "Fine words butter no parsnips"); stir lightly with a 
fork, take them up into a hot vegetable dish, and 
send to the table. 

Parsnips are a native of England, and are found in 
many parts of Europe and northern Asia. There are 
several varieties in cultivation. They are wholesome and 
more nutritious than either the carrot or the turnip. Pars- 
nips are sweetish in taste, and are a particularly useful 
vegetable in spring, when a change of diet is desirable 
and fresh vegetables are scarce. They contain a little 
gluten, and a small percentage of starch and sugar. They 
go well with corned beef and salt fish. Although they 
are left in the ground during the winter, they should be 
dug as soon as the frost is out of the ground, and before 
the tops start to grow, as that detracts from their sweet- 
ness. ^^«o„ii. 

PEAS. 

Young green peas should be washed in the pods, then shelled; 
then put the pods in a little soft water and boil about 10 minutes, 
as these pods are sweet, and full of flavor which is worth saving; 
then skim them out, put in the peas, and boil about ^ hour, or until 
tender, adding a little salt when almost done. Do not drain off the 
water they were cooked in, but serve with the peas. When done, add 
a little butter, and salt if needed. A little sugar will be an improve- 
ment, and cream if you have it. 

Green peas are nice cooked in a steamer without water; then 
salted, and cream poured over them. 




240 



VEGETABLES 




If dried peas are boiled until very soft, mashed and passed 
through a sieve, then seasoned and served, it will divest them of 
their indigestible outer coat, and it is really the best way to serve 
them. This applies also to beans. These pulses are among the 
most nutritious of food, but the outer skin is almost indigestible ceL 
lulose and is best gotten rid of as far as possible. Time to boil peas, 
about I to 1 hour, according to age and condition. 

The' water in which peas are boiled 
should not be thrown away. If to this, as 
it comes from the kettle, is added a little 
stock, or some good meat extract, a deli- 
cious soup is at once produced, requiring 
nothing more than ordinary seasoning. 

Peas have been cultivated in the East from 
time immemorial, and were introduced into Europe 
very early in the middle ages. When eaten young, 
they are wholesome and digestible, and being richer 
in phosphates than most other vegetables, they are 
more adapted to invalids; but when older they are 
more indigestible. Split peas have the tough envel- 
ope removed. 

Green peas are more digestible but less nour- 
ishing than dried, which require prolonged boiling 
to make them digestible. Dried peas should always 
be boiled in soft water, for the longer they are boiled 
they become. A little bicarbonate of soda, (cooking soda) may be added to the 
water in which dried peas and beans are cooked, as this assists in softening 
the legumen. It may also be added to stale green peas, but it impairs the color of 
fresh, tender, green peas and beans, and is not needed for softening purposes. 

PARSLEY. 

FRIED. — See that the parsley is dry, dip it in smoking hot fat 
1 minute, drain on paper, sprinkle on pepper and salt, and serve. 

The Pabsley is a hardy biennial plant, a native of 
Eastern Europe. There are several varieties, the Ham- 
burg parsley being grown for the sake of its roots which 
are eaten like parsnips. The leaves of parsley are nutri- 
tious and stimulating, and are used as a flavoring for 
soups, etc., as well as for garnishing foods. The root is 
diuretic. The fruit (seed) is a deadly poison to many 
birds, especially jiarrots. 

To keep parsley for the winter, use that which is freshly 
gathered, wash it free from grit and dirt, and put it into 
water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, 
and let it boil a or 3 minutes; then take it out, drain, and 
lay it on a sieve before the fire and dry as quickly as 
possible; store away in bottles in a dry place. When 
wanted for use, pour a little warm water over it and let 
litand about 5 minutes. 

POTATOES. 

Probably the best method of cooking jjotatoes, certainly from 
September to June, is by steaming them in the skins; by this pro- 



PEA. 

hard water, the harder 



**f*' 




VEGETABLES 241 

tjess the steam penetrates everywhere, and there is no loss ci mate- 
rial or salts. If the skins are removed before boiling, a large amount 
of salts will be lost. Dr. Letheby estimates the loss when the skins 
are removed at 14%, and when not removed at only 3%. The 
addition of common table salt to the water is advantageous, as 
it modifies the extraction of the natural salts, and improves the 
flavor. The boiling should be thorough, so that the starch grains 
of which they are largely composed, may swell and burst the walls 
of cellulose, which confine them; too often, however, the potatoes 
are spoiled by allowing them to absorb water, and so become sod- 
den after this stage is reached. 

Old potatoes, towards the end of the season, are improved by 
being peeled and put into cold water over night, by which process 
they regain in a measure their natural color and consistency. 

Put potatoes, into cold water as soon as peeled; they turn dark if 
left exposed to the air. 

Old potatoes are rendered more digestible by being finely 
mashed; mash them very thoroughly indeed — you will hardly over= 
do it. Roasted potatoes are more nutritious than boiled, and mealy 
potatoes more nutritious than those which are waxy. 

Potatoes are spoiled by germination or growing (which exhausts 
the starch) and by frost; severe frost invariably kills them, so that 
when the thaw comes the process of putrification almost immediately 
sets in. The sweetness of potatoes which have been frozen and 
thawed, arises from the fact that the starch then changes to sugar on 
being exposed to warmth and air." Keep them frozen until wanted 
for use, then thaw by letting them lie in cold water, and use at once. 
Potatoes after being frozen decay very quickly, because in freezing 
the water they contain bursts the cells. They can be jDut on to bake 
without being thawed, when frozen. 

Whenever the starch cells are intact, ripe potatoes can be 
cooked so that they will be mealy. The starch cells have not matured 
in unrij)e potatoes, so that when cooked they will not be so mealy, 
but they need not be soggy. When potatoes sx)rout, the process of 
germination ruptures the starch cells so that they will not afterwards 
cook as mealy as before sprouting. If sprouts appear they should 
be removed or killed at once, as they exhaust the starch as they 
grow, and spoil the potato for food. 

TO BOIL POTATOES — Wash them very thoroughly, or scrub 
them; a narrow strip cut off around the middle will allow the poi- 
sonous solanine to escape more readily; put them into boiling, salted 
16 



242 VEGETABLES 

water, and boil tliem until soft (about 25 minutes) varying accord- 
ing to variety and size. The thing to bear in mind is that to have 
potatoes mealy they must be taken out of the water as soon as the 
starch cells are cooked enough so that their walls are ready to burst; 
if drained oflf at once, the superfluous water will pass off as steam, 
and the interior will be dry and floury; if left longer they will 
absorb water and become sodden; therefore as soon as they are ten- 
der enough to pierce readily with a fork, drain them, cover with a 
thick cloth, and set them for 15 or 20 minutes on the back part 
of the range, or where they will keep hot without burning. They 
can be kept thus, hot and dry, for several hours if need be, and 
right for eating. 

BAKED POTATOES — Select potatoes as nearly of a size as 
possible, wash or scrub thoroughly clean, and if old, let them stand 
for 2 hours in cold water; then wipe dry (always dry potatoes for 
baking) and bake in a hot oven; it will take from f to 1 hour. It 
is a good plan to prick the skin before putting them in to bake, to 
allow the escape of the steam and prevent their bursting; if not 
pricked, break the skin as soon as they are done to allow the 
steam to escape. Never cover baked potatoes to confine the steam, 
as that makes them soggy. Potatoes baked until just done are best; 
baked longer, they harden near the skin, lose their light, mealy char- 
acter, and so deteriorate. Serve while hot. Baked potatoes are 
the most wholesome, because none of the nutrients are lost, part of 
the starch is turned to sugar, and the solanine escapes with the 
steam. 

POTATO BALLS. — Mix 2 teacups mashed potatoes, 2 table- 
spoons melted butter, 2 well=beaten eggs, salt and pepper to taste; 
form into balls, roll in flour, and fry in hot lard, or drippings. 

BROILED POTATOES.— Cut .whatever you may have of cold 
boiled potatoes into lengthwise slices, about ^ inch thick; dip each in 
flour, and lay them between an oyster broiler. Have the fire clear, 
and when both sides are nicely browned, lay the slices on a hot dish, 
put a piece of butter on each and season with salt and pepper. A 
very delicate dish. 

POTATO CAKE — Boil the potatoes till they are soft and floury, 
dry them, and, while warm, mash them thoroughly— this is usually 
done with the hand; then mix with them as much flour as will bind 
the potato without making it stiff, add salt, and roll out on a floured 
board, and shape the cake or cakes, then fry in boiling bacon=fat. 



VEGETABLES 243 

Usually, the cake is rolled to about | inch in thickness, molded to 
the shape of the pan, and fried whole. Properly made, it is won- 
derfully light. It requires some art in turning it. This is managed 
by heating only enough fat at j5rst to fry one side, then dexterously 
turning the cake on to a plate, and when sufficient fat is boiling for 
the other side, sliding it into the pan again. 

BOSTON CHIPS. — After paring the potatoes, soak them 1 hour 
in cold water; then cut them into thin slices, lengthways of the 
potato; after this do not wet them again. Have a kettle of moder- 
ately hot fat ready; put the chips in a basket, dip them in the fat, 
leave a moment, lift out, dip in again, lift out again, and then put in 
and fry until they turn a golden brown; then lift out, put them 
in a colander, sprinkle on salt, set in the oven a minute, and serve. 

SARATOGA POTATOES.— Shave them thin, soak in cold or ice 
water 20 or 30 minutes, drain them, dry on a towel, and fry in boiling 
fat to a light brown; when done, drop them on blotting or unglazed 
paper to absorb the extra fat; sprinkle on salt and serve hot. Enough 
can be done at one time, if desired, for several meals; they keep 
well, are easily warmed over by setting them in the oven a few min- 
utes, and are nearly as good as when fresh. 

A similar method is to cut them in cubes, instead of thin strips. 
They require a little longer frying, but are nice for a change, and are 
more moist and digestible than chips. 

CREAMED POTATOES.— Into a frying-pan put 1 tablespoon 
butter; as soon as it bubbles, stir in 1 tablespoon of flour, and 1 
cup of hot milk; season to taste with pepper and salt; then put in 
2 cups cold boiled potatoes, which are cut into small cubes, heat 
thoroughly and serve. 

POTATOES WITH CHEESE — Put alternate layers of thinly* 
sliced cheese, and sliced cold potatoes into a dish, with the cheese 
on top; dot with butter, and bake a light brown in a slow oven. 
Time, about | hour. 

ESCALLOPED POTATOES — Slice small, raw potatoes quite thin. 
Butter a dish well, and sprinkle fine bread crumbs on the bottom ; 
then put in a layer of sliced potatoes and season with salt and pepper 
and bits of butter. Then add another layer of crumbs, and so alter- 
nately until the dish is full, having crumbs on top with a good 
supply of butter. Moisten with milk and a little cream, if it is to 
be had, and bake until potatoes are creamy and nicely browned on 
top. If the oven is very hot, it is well to cover them part of the 
time. 



244 VEGETABLES 

POTATOES AND EGGS.— Take 2 large cups of cold, well- 
mashed iDotatoes, and -| cup melted butter; beat together until light 
and smooth, and add 2 welhbeaten eggs, 1 cup milk, and a little salt; 
beat all together, put into a deep dish, brown in a quick oven, and 
serve hot. Time, about 10 minutes. 

FRIED. — Peel and slice cold potatoes, and fry first one side; 
then turn and fry the other, in a frying==x3an, with salt pork fat, beef 
drippings or butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and. always send 
to the table hot. Raw potatoes can be fried in the same way. They 
will be better if soaked in cold water after being peeled and sliced; 
the water will take out the starch and they will then fry more crisp. 
The French usually fry them, like doughnuts, in smoking hot fat. 
Take them out the minute they are browned, drain on paper, sea- 
son, and serve hot. 

POTATOES WARMED IN GRAVY.— Chop cold boiled potatoes 
in the chopping^bowl (with a knife they are never cut even, some 
pieces are large, while others are almost mashed); after the potatoes 
are pretty fine, put a piece of butter in the fryingpan, turn in the po- 
tatoes, brown slightly, then turn in gravy (chicken gravy is very 
nice), and stir the potatoes carefully with a fork, so as not to mash 
Ihem, until the gravy is very hot. Season with a little salt and 
pepper. 

LVONNAISE POTATOES.— Slice 6 cold boiled potatoes, or cut 
into dice. Put a little butter in the frying=pan, j)ut in ^ onion chopped 
fine, and fry it a light brown, turning them without breaking; then 
stir in 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, and serve hot. A few drops 
of vinegar added with the onion, improves the flavor. 

MASHED POTATOES — Pare and boil them in slightly salted 
water; when done, drain off the water, and mash them in the kettle 
with a wire masher; add a level teaspoon of salt to 10 potatoes, and a 
little cream, or, if one has no cream, a piece of butter and a little hot 
water; mash and beat against the side of the kettle, until they are 
creamy — you can hardly mash too much; keep them hot in the ket- 
tle until ready to serve. Pour hot water in the vegetable dish to 
warm it, pile the potato in the dish, put dots of black pepper over it, 
and send it to the table. 

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL— Cut cold boiled pota- 
toes in small squares, the size of dice, and put them over the fire in 
a stew=pan, with butter or cream, a little chopped parsley, salt and 
pepper to taste, and a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice. Let 



VEGETABLES 245 

them get hot, shaking the pan to keep them from burning, and serve 
them in a hot dish that has been rubbed with a raw onion. 

POTATO PUFF — To 2 cups of mashed potatoes, add 2 table- 
spoons of melted butter, and beat until light; then mix in it 2 eggs, 
well beaten, a cup of milk, and salt to taste. Beat together thorough- 
ly, and bake in a buttered pudding-dish in a quick oven until nicely 
browned. A fine breakfast dish. 

PUFFED POTATOES. — Cut peeled raw potatoes in thin slices, 
and fry in a kettle of hot fat; stir with a fork to prevent their stick- 
ing together. When they are soft, take them out with a skimmer 
and let them drain on a sieve until cool; then return to the hot fat 
and fry 4 minutes longer; the second frying causes the slices to puff 
and become hollow. Sprinkle them with salt and serve. 

POTATO STEW, — Take 6 or 8 large potatoes, peel and slice 
thin; cut 3 thick slices of salt pork into little squares, and put into 
the bottom of the soup^kettle; fry thoroughly, then add the potatoes, 
with salt, pepper and a little sage, if liked, and 1 large tomato peeled 
and sliced; cover with water and closely cover the kettle. Cook 
until the potatoes begin to break in pieces. Cheap and good. 

QUIRLED POTATOES. — Peel, boil, season and mash potatoes; 
put them through a colander into the dish in which you wish to 
serve them, set in a hot oven and brown. 

SALTED POTATOES — Make a strong brine of salt and water; 
clean but do not cut, smooth, medium sized potatoes; when the brine 
is boiling hot put in the potatoes and boil until tender. Serve with 
the jackets on, with good butter. Nice and new. 

STUFFED POTATOES — Choose 12 good^sized potatoes, wash 
them, and scrub the skins with a brush; bake them until done — 
about 1 hour. Kemove them from the oven, cut a slice off one end 
of each, scrape out the potato, mix it lightly with a small piece of 
butter, pepper and salt, replace it in the skin, and, when all are 
done, return them to the oven for 10 minutes. In serving, cut a slice 
off the other end to make them stand upright on a flat dish, leaving 
the toj) uncovered. A little cooked meat can be mixed in before 
replacing the potato in the skin, if desired. 

POTATO TURNOVERS.— Have some cold roast beef, or veal 
and ham mixed, and cut very fine. Take hot mashed potatoes and 
make into a paste with 1 or 2 eggs, according to quantity. You 
should have twice as much potato as meat. Roll the jDotato out, 



246 VEGETABLES 

dredging with flour. Cut this round, about the size of a small 
saucer. On one half put the chopped meat, fold the other half over 
and fry a light brown. 

WARMED OVER POTATOES — (1) Slice up cold potatoes, 
fry in a little butter, lard, or nice drippings, season with salt and 
pepper; fry a nice brown, and just before serving pour in a little 
cream or milk; toss about for a few minutes. Serve very hot. Or, 
(2) grate them into the dish they are to be served in, dot with 
butter, sprinkle on salt, and bake about 5 minutes in a hot oven. 
Or, (8) cut into dice, put into a dish, add a little milk, butter and 
salt, and heat in the oven. Never waste any potato left over. 

The potato is a native of America. It was introduced into England in the 
sixteenth century, but it was nearly 100 years before it was cultivated to any ex- 
tent. As food, it ranks next in value to the cereals, but it is not as cheap and 
desirable a food in itself as is often supposed, since it does not contain the neces- 
sary food elements in right proportions for a steady diet. It is best eaten as an 
addition to pulses, lean meat, and other nitrogenous food. 

Potatoes consist mainly of starch and water, about 19>% being water; starch 18^, 
and fibrin and albumen 2%. Young new potatoes are more indigestible than old 
ones. In a floury and mealy state they are easily digested, but when close and 
waxy they are not. They possess slightly laxative qualities. The waste in boiling 
is much less when they are boiled in their skins, because that is of a cork=like sub- 
stance partly impervious to water. 

There is considerable waste in peeling potatoes because the most albuminous 
part lies immediately under the skin. In and near the skin itself, is a poisonous 
acid juice, called solanine, but that is destroyed or dissipated when the potatoes 
are cooked. It is this poisonous acid which causes the disagreeable smell and 
taste of the water in which potatoes have been boiled, and it makes the water unfit 
for use. 

SWEET POTATOES. 
TO BOIL. — Select those of an even size, wash x^erfectly clean, 
and boil until tender; then peel, cut them in two lengthwise, and 
place them on a buttered tin in the oven to brown; in this way the 
skins are disposed of before sending them to the table. It takes 
longer to cook sweet potatoes than the common ones. The time is 
about f to 1 hour. 

BAKED — Wash medium-sized sweet potatoes and i^lace on the 
top grate of a hot oven; when the potatoes are about half done, pierce 
them with a fork to let the steam escape ; this will make them dry and 
mealy. 

BROILED — Boil, let cool, and peel the number of large, sweet 
potatoes required. Slit them in 2 or 3 slices, dip in melted butter, 
and place them in a double gridiron. Broil a light brown on both 
sides, dish them up, and after j)ouring some melted butter over the 
potatoes, they may be served. 

FRIED — Peel the raw potato, cut it into very thin, lengthwise 
strips, and fry in smoking hot fat» deep enough to immerse them in; 




VEGETABLES 247 

as they rise to the top and brown on one side, turn them and let 
them brown on the other. Nice, and new in the north. 

SWEET POTATOES AND PORK.— Select white looking fresh 
pork — rib pieces; cut them thin and free from fat and bone; fry them 
carefully, and cook thoroughly until nicely browned; then place on a 
warm platter; cut boiled sweet potatoes in slices lengthways, and fry 
until brown in the fat in the spider; use care not to burn them; salt 
them as they cook; then arrange on the platter around the meat; 
serve very hot, with apple-sauce and hot johnny-cake. 

SUGARED SWEET POTATOES— Boil those of medium size, 
dry off in the oven, peel, let them get cold, and then cut in two length- 
wise; then lay each half on its round side 
in a shallow pan or dripping-pan, put a 
good bit of butter and a little salt and 
pepper on each one, sift granulated 
sugar generously over all, and put in a 
quick oven to brown; it takes about 40 
minutes. Excellent and new. 

The sweet potato is probably of American ori- sweet potato. 

gin, though now extensively cultivated in many 

countries. It belongs to the Convolvulus order. It contains more sugar than the 
true potato. Its constituent parts are, water 71 parts; albumen, 1}£; starch, 15; 
sugar, 3; pectose gum and cellulose, 5; mineral matter, 1. 

PUMPKINS. 

PUMPKIN BUTTER — Peel and cut enough pumpkin to fill a 
large iron or porcelain kettle. Select the sweetest pumpkins, as you 
would for pies. Stew 4 or 5 hours, until it is a rich golden brown 
color, and dried to a thick paste. It must be frequently stirred at 
last, to prevent burning. This sauce is especially good, served with 
pork, either salt or fresh. 

Pumpkins for winter can be stewed and canned like fruit, and will 
then nearly equal fresh pumpkins. 

Pumpkins are a species of gourd. They were formerly more used for food 
than at present, having been somewhat supplanted by the squash. They possess 
one peculiar quality — that of absorbing and retaining the flavor of whatever they 
are cooked with. If stewed with apples they taste exactly like them in puddings 
and tarts, and they may be used to advantage in most savory cookery. They con- 
tain about 1% of sugar, 2 to 5^ of starch, and about 1% of fat and nitrogenous mat- 
ter. An anonymous writer in the early settlement of America wrote home to Eng- 
land as foUows: 

" If fresh meat be wanting to fill up our dish. 
We have carrots, and pumpkins, cind turnips and fish, 
We have pumpkins at morning, and pumpkins at noon, 
And i-£ '■t'sete not for pumpkins we should be undone." 



248 VEGETABLES 

RICE. 

BOILED Pick over carefully, and wash at least twice, in cold 

water, washing it thoroughly clean, and drain. Then put the rice 
into plenty of well salted boiling water, and make it boil actively so 
that the water will bubble and toss the rice around; cook it till 
tender, hut no longer, for if the grains burst they will surely stick 
together; test it often by squeezing a grain between the fingers; if 
it flattens easily it is ready to drain; it should cook in 15 to 20 
minutes, according to the age of the rice. When soft, drain oif the 
water, remove the rice, and set it at the back of the stove to dry 
about ^ hour. If you stir it while cooking, use a fork instead of 
a spoon, as that separates the grains. Cooked thus each grain will 
be distinct, and separate. Unless the water is used for soup, boil- 
ing rice is less desirable than steaming it, because so much of its 
nutrients are dissolved out and thrown away in the water. 

BAKED. — Take some cold boiled rice, add 1 or 2 wellbeaten 
eggs, some grated cheese, some finely chopped boiled ham, and a 
little melted butter; put it in a baking dish, sprinkle grated cheese 
on top, and bake in a good oven until a broom straw, when thrust 
into the middle, will come out clean, 

STEAMED — Pick over the rice and wash it thoroughly in cold 
water; put it in a farina boiler, with | teaspoon of salt and 1 pint of 
boiling water to each cup of rice; cover, and cook till soft (about 
^ hour); then remove the cover and let it dry off, stirring it with a 
fork to facilitate the escape of the steam and keejp the grains sci:»- 
arate. If you have no double boiler it can be put in a 
tin xoail and steamed in the steamer. Stock or milk .'jj / 

can be used instead of water, if desired, but use a little 
more. 

RICE WITH CHEESE — Steam some rice in either 
water or milk; then mix in some grated cheese, pepper 
and salt; put the mixture in a pie=disli or tin, shake 
some grated cheese on top, and bake until nicely 
browned. The mixture must be fairly moist befere it 
is baked, or it will get dry. 

Rice appears to" be a native of the East Indies, and it has 
formed the princiiDal food of the Indian and Chinese people from 
remote antiquity. It is now cultivated in every country where the 
climate is suitable. It contains about 75^ of starch, and because kice. 

it has little fat or albumen, it is not fit for a sole article of diet. In 
nourishing properties it is greatly inferior to wheat, but it is a light and whole., 
some food, and is well adapted for invalids. As it has little of the heat pro- 
ducing elements, it is suitable for the inhabitants of hot climates. It goes well 
with meat and other articles rich in albumenoids. 




VEGETABLES 249 

SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE OYSTER. 

Scrape the roots clean, and keexD them covered with cold water 
containing a little vinegar, until time to cook, as exposure to the air 
will blacken them. Then boil till tender, in salted water — about 1 
hour. After boiling thus, it can be mashed, the fibres picked out, 
salted to taste, butter worked in, and served in a warm vegetable 
dish. Or, after boiling, they can be drained, sliced, dipped in frit- 
ter batter, and fried in smoking hot fat; or egg and bread- crumbed, 
and then fried. Or the slices can be saut6d in a frying-pan, with 
butter or salt pork fat. 

CREAMED SALSIFY — Wash it, scrape, cut into slices | inch 
thick, boil till tender in a sauce-pan; then turn off most of the liquor, 
add milk or cream, and salt to taste, and boil 5 
to 10 minutes longer; thicken the liquor with 
rice flour or other thickening, and serve hot. 
If milk is used add a large lump of butter. 

ESCALLOPED SALSIFY Boil, mash it, 

moisten with milk, add butter, salt and pepper 

to season, put it in a baking-pan, cover with 

dry 'crumbs, and bake in a quick oven about 7 

or 8 minutes. salsify. 

Salsify (also called vegetable oyster) belongs to the natural order Composifce, 
the same order to which lettuce and chicory belong. It is the root which is used, 
which is shaped somewhat like the common carrot. As a rule, members of this 
order are tonic or stimulant in their medicinal qualities. 

SEA^KALE. 

BOILED. — Wash the kale thoroughly and examine it for insects; 
tie it in bunches like asparagus, and boil about ^ 
hour, or until tender, in water containing a trifle of 
salt; when done, drain thoroughly on a cloth, untie 
the bundle, and spread the kale on slices of toasted 
bread; then pour over it hot butter sauce. 





Seaskale resembles asparagus, and belongs to the same tribe. 
It is easily cultivated. It is so light that the most delicate or- 
ganizations may readily eat it, and it is nutritious, stimulating 
to the appetite, and easily digested. It usually contains no 
sugar, but some mucilage and starch, the percentage being, 
starch and mucilage, 3; cellulose, 1; albumen 2A; mineral matter, 
0.6, and water, 93. sea kale. 

SooTOH Kale. — This has a fine head of curly leaves; the ten- 
derest are used as greens, and are pre])ared in the same manner as dandelions 
and other greens. This herb may be planted late, like late turnips, and is in sea- 
son, if planted early, from midsummer to late fall; it may be picked green and 
fresh, even after the ground is covered with snow. 

RADISHES. 

These are washed and scraped, and to keep them fresh looking 



250 VEGETABLES 

are placed on the table in glasses containing a little water. All vari- 
eties are served in the same way. 

There are many varieties of the radish, and they are supposed to possess some 
power in stimulating the appetite. The radish is demulcent, stimulating ana 
diuretic, but it is not suitable for those with weak digestive powers. 

SAUERKROUT. 
TO MAKE — Choose firm, white cabbage heads and remove the 
coarse outer leaves, and the large fibres of the back of the white 
leaves; chop coarsely, and for about 30 medium^sized heads, allow | 
lb. of salt and mix it well with the chopped cabbage; cover the bot- 
tom of a small oak barrel or cask with cabbage leaves, and press 
the cabbage firmly into the barrel, or pound it down with a wooden 
pestle. When all the cabbage is firmly packed, cover with cabbage 
leaves and a cloth, then have a round cover that goes into the barrel, 
press it down firmly and put a stone on that to keep it in place. 
As soon as it begins to ferment (and you will know it by the odor) 
place the barrel in a cold cellar or storehouse, where it will not 
freeze. Made in October, it is ready to cook in February. 

TO COOK — To cook sauerkrout, take it from the barrel, and if 
very sour it can be washed in a plenty of water and drained dry in 
the colander; put butter, dripping or salt pork fat in the frying=pan, 
add a sliced onion, if liked, put a few spoonfuls of water in the pan 
with the krout; cover with a plate and stew slowly for an hour; then 
stir it well before taking up. It is eaten with a little pepper and 
vinegar, or with sour baked apples. 

SPINACH. 

BOILED. — Wash it many times in cold water to thoroughly and 
perfectly free it from sand and dust. Then put in a close sauce=pan, 
without a drop of water, over a moderate fire ; cover closely, and cook 
till tender — about ^ hour. Its own juice runs out, 
and it cooks in that. Spinach should be one of the 
most healthful of springtime vegetables, but its most 
valuable elements are its mineral matters or potash 
salts, and by the old method of cooking they are al- 
most entirely lost. The above method preserves 
them. When done, drain, chop fine, and season with 
butter, pepper and salt; or pour over a cream sauce. 
Serve with slices of hard=boiled egg over it. 

Spinach is supposed to be a native of Western Arabia. It spinach. 

was not known to the ancients, but was introduced into Europe 
some 400 years ago. It is laxative, cooling, wholesome, and easily digested, but 
does not afford much nutriment. 




VEGETABLES 251 

SQUASH. 

SUMMER SQVASn.— Boiled.— They must be so young that the 
thumb nail will strike through the shell. Wash and quarter or slice 
them (you need not remove the skin or seeds); then boil till tender 
in slightly salted water — about 20 or 30 minutes. When done, turn 
off the water and set the kettle back on the stove; mash, and stir to 
let the water dry out, then add butter, salt, and a little white pep- 
per. Keep hot on the back of the stove until time to serve. 

Baked. — Pare the squash, remove the seeds, and steam it until 
tender; then mash, season with butter, pepper and salt, and to a me- 
dium=sized squash add 1 cup cracker or bread crumbs; stir together 
well, put it in a greased baking^dish, and bake 1 hour. 

Fried Summer Squash — Peel the squash, cut it in small squares, 
and fry in hot butter; season with pepper and salt. It will be as 
delicate as, and taste much like egg plant. Try it. 

WINTER SQUASH — This usually has a hard shell, and has to 
be broken with_a hatchet, by dropping on a plank floor, or by sawing 
with the meat saw. Break in small pieces for the kettle, scrape out 
the seeds, and wash clean. Put the pieces in the kettle with the 
shell side up, have a little salt in the water, which should cover it, 
and cook for an hour, if it does not break to pieces. When done, 
take the shells in a clean cloth, and, with an iron spoon, scrape the 
squash into a basin to keep hot on the back of the range. If too dry, 
moisten with a little water, and add butter, salt and pepper to taste. 
Some winter squashes have a thin soft shell and are watery; they can 
be baked in the oven, then seasoned as above. Both summer and 
winter squashes are also steamed instead of boiled by some cooks. 

The squash is a species of the gourd, belonging to the same general order as 
the cucumber and pumpkin. It is a pleasant and wholesome article of food, but 
contains little nutriment, having about 1^ of sugar, 2 to 4:% of starch, and less than 
1% of nitrogenous matter. 

TOMATOES. 

BAKED — Scald and skin tomatoes that are whole and firm, and 
ripe enough to be thoroughly red; cut a slice from the stem end, and 
with a sharp knife take out the hard core; arrange them in a round 
baking4in well buttered, with the cut side upward; put a sprinkle of 
salt and pepper over them, and, in each one, a bit of bread well but- 
tered. Then bake. Time, about ^ hour 

BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES — Choose large tomatoes, as 
nearly the same size as possible; from the stem end take out the 
seeds and inner part of the tomato; make a stuffing of bread crumbs, 



252 VEGETABLES 

finely-chopped cold ham, and the chopped tomato; season with but- 
ter, pepper, a little salt and mustard. Fill the tomatoes with the 
stuflfing and bake them. Time, about \ hour. Add a little butter to 
them before putting in the oven, and a very little water in the bak- 
ing=pan. When they are done, set them where they will keep hot; 
add a little more butter and hot water to the baking=pan, and make a 
thin gravy, thickening it with brown flour and stirring in a table- 
spoon of sugar. 

TOMATOES AND CREAM Slice the tomatoes rather thick, 

and turn oflp all the juice that escapes; sprinkle with sugar, and just 
before they are served pour [cream over them To those who have 
never tried it this dish may be uninviting, but to those who are fond 
of the natural flavor of the tomato, it will be found delicious. The 
yellow tomato preserves are very nice served with cream. Accom- 
panied with nice white cake, no daintier dessert could be wished for. 

TOMATO CROUTES — Small tomatoes are better for this dish. 
Scald and peel, then cut a slice from the stem end, leaving about 
f of the tomato; place them the cut side down, on slices of buttered 
bread, arranged in a buttered bakings tin; sprinkle with salt and pep- 
per; bake ^ hour. This dish can be served with cold meat, and is 
well worth trying. 

ESCALLOPED TOMATOES — Tomatoes are escalloped like oys- 
ters. Put a layer of bread crumbs in a buttered baking=dish; over this, 
a layer of sliced tomatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, and a 
very little sugar. Have the top layer of bread crumbs, and scatter 
over it bits of butter, and then bake — time, about i hour. A little of 
the gravy left from roast meats would add to the flavor, and might be 
poured over just before it is put in the oven. Canned tomatoes can 
be used almost equally well. 

RAW TOMATOES — Tomatoes are often eaten raw. Some peo- 
ple object to having the skin removed, but if i^roperly done, the 
flavor is not injured. Select those which are firm, smooth and fully 
ripe, put them in a pan, and pour on enough boiling water to cover, 
and leave them 15 seconds, but no more; then pour off, and fill the 
dish with cold water. Take out, remove the skins and cores, and set 
on ice till wanted. Cut in thin slices and serve ice cold. They are 
delicious eaten either with sugar alone, or with sugar, salt, pepj^er 
and vinegar. They should be prepared several hours in advance, to 
be eaten this way; or, if wanted for breakfast, skin them the night 
before, and keep on ice till ready to use them. 



VEGETABLES 253 

FRIED TOMATOES — Select the largest firm, ripe tomatoes for 
frying. Cut them in halves and put them in a frying=pan that can 
be covered, having first melted 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan; 
place the tomatoes with the skin side down, and on the top of each 
half put as much of bread crumbs as it will hold; season with salt 
and pepper. Cover the tomatoes and allow them to cook 10 minutes 
without removing the cover; then take out the tomatoes on a platter 
and set where .they will keep hot while you prepare a gravy for them, 
as follows: If the butter has cooked away, add a little more to the 
frying=pan; pour in ^ teacup of boiling water, then thicken with a 
teaspoon of flour wet with a little water; stir until it boils, season 
with salt and pepper, and pour over the tomatoes. 

TOMATOES AND MACARONI Turn -| lb. tomatoes into a 

sauce^pan, with a spoonful of stock or a bit of butter; let them cook 
until tender enough to pass through a coarse sieve or colander, then 
re-heat, season nicely, adding a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar, 
and pour over a flat dish covered with nicely boiled macaroni, not the 
pipe; that answers when it is to be cut into short lengths. Cover 
the surface with grated cheese and bread crumbs, put a few bits of 
butter over it, and brown it before the fire or in a quick oven. 

SALTED TOMATOES.— Pick ripe tomatoes (but not too ripe) 
and put in jars. Put strong salt brine over them, and cover with a 
plate, having the brine just cover them, and then in the winter when 
you want to use them, take out what you want and soak 24 hours in 
cold water, and peel and slice the same as when ' they are fresh from 
the vines. They are much better in this way than when canned. 

STEWED TOMATOES.— Scald, peel, slice and stew slowly in a 
sauce^pan about ^ hour; then add salt, pepper, butter, and a little 
sugar to sweeten; stew ^ hour more, stirring in the seasoning. 
Thicken, if desired, with cracker or bread crumbs, or corn^starch, or 
flour dissolved in cold water. Canned tomatoes can be prepared in 
the same manner. 

TOMATO TOAST. —Scald and peel nice, fresh tomatoes, and 
stew till tender— about ^ to | hour; season with butter, salt, pepper 
and a little sugar. Take as many slices of bread as needed for the 
family, toast well, butter, and arrange in layers in a deep dish with 
some of the stewed tomatoes on each slice; cover and serve at once. 

CANNED TOMATOES — These are nice stewed and baked in 
alternate layers with boiled rice, or boiled macaroni, seasoning the 
layers with butter, popper and salt. 



254 VEGETABLES 

The tomato is a native of South America, and belongs to the nightshade order, 
■which includes the potato and tobacco. It was considered poisonous or unfit for 
food until within a comparatively few years. The fruit is the only part which is 
eaten. It is a delicious article of food, and exerts a healthful influence upon the 
liver and biliary organs, and is considered by some physicians a good remedy for 
indigestion and dyspepsia. It contains about 6^ of sugar, a little less than 1^ of 
malic acid, to which it owes its refreshing and cooling qualities, a little pectose, 
etc. The skins will readily come off if boiling water is poured over them and they 
are allowed to stand a while. 

TURNIPS. 

BOILED — Wash, peel, cut in pieces, and boil until tender in 
just enough salted water to cover them. They are then sometimes 
mashed until the lumps are all out, then seasoned with salt, white 
pepper, and a little butter; serve hot. A better way than mashing, 
because it makes them less soggy, is to chop them; when boiled 
tender, turn them into a wooden bowl, season with salt, white pep- 
per and a little butter, chop them very quickly, and put them in the 
oven to become hot before serving. Small turnips are very nice 
served whole, with butter, salt and pepper, and if one has it to spare, 
a few spoons of cream on them. Time to boil, young, 15 to 20 min- 
utes; if old, I to 1 hour. 

CREAMED TURNIPS — Boil, cut in dice, and pour over a cream 
sauce. A drawn butter, or any white sauce, can be used instead. 

PIEDMONTESE TURNIPS.— Half boil the turnips; after cutting 
them in slices, butter a pudding-dish, put in the 
turnips, moisten them with a little milk or cream, 
dust over them pepper, salt and bread crumbs, and a 
little grated cheese, and bake in the oven until of a 
bright golden brown. Omit tlie cheese if preferred. 




The turnip is used throughout the United States and 
Europe, but it does not thrive in a hot climate. It contains 
little nutritive matter, and is good for human food only when 
taken with other articles. When eaten alone it creates flatu- 
lency. It contains no starch but has instead a jelly=like sub- 
stance called pectins, and in the best kinds a slightly acid 
quality also. It is somewhat laxative and diuretic. It is not 
good for those with weak digestive organs. Turnips need tubnips. 

much salt as they contain none, and being without fats or 
starch they go well with fat meats, potatoes, etc., which contain those elements- 

YAMS 

BOILED. — Peel and cut into slices about ^ inch thick, put them 
into a kettle with barely enough salted water to cover; cover closely 
and cook till tender — about | to 1 hour. Drain in a colander, keep- 
ing it hot. Make a white sauce, pour it over and serve. 



VEGETABLES 



255 



FRIED. — Peel the yams and slice as above; 
parboil 20 minutes in slightly salted water; then 
drain, wipe dry, and fry brown in butter, pork fat 
or oil, as preferred; sprinkle with a little salt and 
white pepper while frying. 

The yam is a native of tropical countries. The roots 
are tuberous, something like our own potatoes. When 
boiled or baked they are nice in flavor, and very nutritious. 
Although somewhat resembling sweet potatoes they are of a 
widely different order, belonging to the order Dioscorea. 
They contain water, 7d%; albumenoids, 2%; starch, etc., 16^: 
fats, 0.5%; mineral matters, 1}4%- 




BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

KEAD has well been called the staff of life. It is in vegeta- 
ble foods, that which flesh is in animal foods, and each con- 
tains nearly all the elements needed for nutrition. 

Wheat makes the best bread of any cereal. This is ow- 
ing to the peculiar character of its albuminous matter, which is u 
greyish yellow, elastic, sticky substance, called gluten. This gluten 
is a compound of at least 4 albumenoids, called gluten=film, gluten- 
casein, gliadin, and mucedin. 

Grains like corn and oatmeal, which lack gluten, do not make good 
bread. Wheat bread best meets the requirements of adult life. The 
gluten furnishes the flesh making elements, and the starch the heat 
giving, while deficiences in the amount of phosphates, etc., can be 
made up by the use of eggs, vegetables, etc. 

The essentials of bread making are (1) perfect cleanliness; (2) 
good flour; (3) good yeast; (4) the dough must rise well; (5) the 
oven must be right — neither too hot nor too cold; (6) the careful 
attention of the cook throughout the process. 

The principal causes of sour bread are using poor yeast, raising 
at too high a temperature, insufficient baking, and cooling in a warm, 
impure atmosphere. 

Wheat bread is the kind most commonly eaten in this country, 
and it is made of the best quality of wheat flour by mixing it with 
water or milk and yeast of some kind, which causes a more or less 
rapid fermentation according to the kind of yeast employed. A 
thorough kneading or molding process is also essential in making 
this bread, and great care and skill emj)loyed in the baking. • 

The yeast must be fresh and good or the bread will be heavy and 
indigestible; stale, sour yeast or leaven, produces instead of vinous, 
an acetous fermentation, and the result is a sour, heavy and unwhole- 
some loaf. 

Mixing the Bread.— Always sift the flour before using it, and it 
should also be dry. Dough for bread, if mixed at night, should be 
made late in the evening, and well molded (or kneaded as the process 
is usually called), and in cool or cold weather should be placed 
where it will retain the warmth of the water or milk used in mixing 
the dough. The wetting should be quite warm, but not hot enough 
to scald the yeast. The flour should also be warmed in cold weather 

256 



BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 257 

by setting the pan which contains it on the back of the range, and 
constantly stirring it from the bottom of the pan, until the flour 
feels warm to the hand. The hand is better for stirring it, as a 
spoon does not always prevent its caking in the bottom of the pan. 
When thus warmed it will rise much more quickly, and when thor- 
oughly warmed it can be mixed with the warm wetting. A table- 
spoon of salt is added, and many cooks use a tablespoon of sugar, 
which hastens the fermentation and rising of the dough. 

In hot weather the flour does not need warming, and the wetting 
may also be of the temperature of the air. The dough will be light 
in the morning, and can be molded again, divided into loaves and 
put into the bakings tins to rise again, when it will be ready to bake; 
or, instead of molding it early in the morning, if other work is press- 
ing, or the third rising is desired, it may be cut down with a knife, 
until it is very nearly of the bulk it was before rising, and left to rise 
again until after breakfast is over, when it can be molded to put in 
the baking4ins. One good bread making rule is to mold 20 minutes 
at night after mixing, keeping the dough as soft as possible; then cut 
down well the first thing in the morning; after breakfast mold 10 
minutes, with as little added flour as possible, then divide into loaves 
and put it in the baking4ins. 

If dough becomes chilled, put the pan at once into a larger one 
filled with warm water, and as fast as the water cools replace it with 
more which is warm, until the dough begins to rise again. By keep- 
ing rising dough at a temperature of about 50° (by putting it in a 
cellar or otherwise), it may be kept at a standstill for hours without 
being injured; then it should be brought into a warm room about an 
hour before baking, to finish the rising process. 

The best icay of mixing bread is to mix the yeast well into the 
water or milk, and then work in the flour. This is better than the 
old way of making a hole in the flour and then pouring the liquid 
into it, as less kneading will be necessary, and the yeast will be more 
uniformly mixed with the flour. It is better to measure the liquid, 
letting that regulate the size of the loaf, and then add enough flour 
to make it the right consistency, than it is to measure the flour first 
and then add the liquid. Measure the liquid, and either mix in all 
the flour at first, or else add about half at first, making a batter, let it 
rise well, then add the remainder, and let it rise again. By the latter 
method the bread rises more quickly, and milk bread may in the 
summer be thus mixed in the morning and baked by noon. House- 
licepers can try the 2 methods and adopt the one which they prefer, 

When yeast bread is mixed in the morning instead of at night 

17 



258 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

(and with the quickly rising comxDressed yeast this is often done) 
instead of molding the bread when first mixed, it can be stirred with 
a sjDoon, and the flour cut into it, until the dough is quite stitf; then 
cover it to keep it warm and in 2 or 3 hours it will have risen so that 
more flour can be added, then molded, and put into baking-pans to 
rise. Many persons prefer this bread as being better and sweeter 
than when risen over night. 

Remember that getting the dough too stiff is one great fault in 
making bread; aim to have it as soft as possible without being at all 
sticky or wet. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to 
overwork itself, that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neg- 
lected when it has reached the proper point for either, sour bread 
will probably be the result in warm weather, and bad bread at all 
times. 

The Kneading. — The object in kneading the dough is to thor- 
oughly mix the flour and water, and evenly distribute the yeast, so 
that the fermentation may be uniform. It is best done on a bread 
board, although often done in a mixing bowl. The dough should be 
kneaded until it is a smooth, plastic, even grained mass. The mo- 
tion is hard to describe, but much depends on having the kneading 
thoroughly and properly done. Use as little extra flour as possible. 
Deftness rather than strength counts in the process. If you can pull 
the dough out long, and it springs back to the hand, it is good. 

The Rising. — In setting the dough to rise, the rule is that it 
should rise till its size is a little more than doubled. It is best to 
cover it with several thicknesses of cloth and a tight fitting cover; 
this will keep out the air and prevent a thick crust from forming, 
which will not mix well with the dough when it is kneaded, and 
will cause streaks or spots in the bread. Grease the bowl in which 
the dough is set to rise. 

Care should be taken in rising bread that it is kept warm in cold 
weather; but not too hot, as that induces the acetous fermentation 
instead of the vinous, and the dough sours; about 70° to 80° is right. 
Old bread makers preferred a slow rise, which they said made a 
sweeter bread, but later scientific developments point towards a 
quick rising as the best, because yeast being a plant which lives and 
dies, by quick fermentation the plant is living when the bread is 
ready to bake, but by the slower process only the dead spores are 
left. To hasten the process of rising, use plenty of yeast, but do not 
keep it too hot. The less yeast used however, the sweeter the bread 
will be, because the yeast consumes the sugar in the dough, and the 
more yeast used the more sugar will be consumed. 



BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. • 259 

Bread keeps better, esx^ecially in hot weather, if no milk is used 
in the mixing; a bit of butter or a little lard may be added to the 
warm water used in mixing the bread, which will give it the neces- 
sary "shortness" when the milk is omitted. When the dough is 
molded and placed in the pans, allow for its doubling in size before 
baking — that is, make up the loaves to half fill the pans. It should 
be placed in the oven before the pans are quite full of the risen 
dough, for it rises a little after being put in the oven. 

The Bread Pans. — The brick=shaped sheet=iron pans are preferable 
to any others, both in shape and material. Eound loaves do not cut 
in equal sized or symmetrical slices, and the untinned iron pans are 
better conductors of heat than those bright with tin. Grease the pan 
lightly before putting in the bread. The bread should not be made 
in too large loaves, as it is not so sure of being done in the center; 
besides, the smaller loaves furnish slices of convenient size without 
breaking, or cutting in 2 parts, as is sometimes done when the loaves 
are very large; the medium=sized pans or small ones are the best. A 
loaf is of better shape if molded in 2 parts, which after baking come 
out of the pan as a single loaf. One long loaf will be smaller at the 
ends, and will not cut in nice slices, unless the dough is pulled out 
quite long, and filled in at the ends of the pans. 

The Oven should be well heated, and a steady fire maintained 
during the process of baking. An old rule for the heat of the oven, 
for bread and most baking, was to have it so that you could "hold 
your hand in it while you counted 12, but no longer, " but the sensi- 
tiveness to heat, in difPerent individuals varies and a much better test 
is to throw a tablespoon of fresh flour on the oven bottom. If, after 
a few seconds the flour remains white, the temperature is too low and 
should be increased. If it burns black quickly, takes fire, or assumes 
a dark brown color, the oven is too hot and must be cooled. If it 
turns a blackish or brownish yellow, and looks slightly scorched, the 
oven is right. 

If the oven gets too hot and there is danger of burning the bread, 
put a dish of hot water in the oven, and the steam will prevent its 
scorching; it is better, however, to carefully regulate the heat so that 
this will not be necessary. The right temperature of the oven for 
baking bread is from 400° to 450°. 

Baking the Bread. — Medium=sized loaves should have from | to 1 
hour's time for baking, and should turn out of the pan of a yellowish 
brown color on the top, bottom and sides of the loaf. One test is to 
thrust into the loaf a straw taken from the broom; when it is pulled 
out, if it is clear from dough the bread is done, but if it is sticky the 



2G0 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

bread should be baked longer. Or, if the loaf is baked in 2 parts, 
break them apart, and press with the finger where broken; if clammy 
it is not done and must be baked longer, but if elastic it is done. 

If on ojjening the oven door you are met with a cloud of steam 
which quickly passes away, in all probability the bread is done. 
Bread should reach the temperature of boiling water (212°) clear to 
the center, but when carelessly baked, even when burned on the out- 
side, it sometimes does not do so ; in such slack-baked bread the yeast 
germs are not all killed, and the bread is not wholesome. In j)utting 
the j)ans into the oven leave space enough between them so that the 
heat can freely circulate around each one. 

When turned out of the pan, if the sides of the loaf look white, 
while the top and bottom crust is of a good color, turn the loaf so 
that one side will come at the toj) and the other at the bottom of the 
j)an, return it to the oven and finish browning the sides; if this is not 
done there is danger that the loaf will be doughy in the center. An 
oven too cold will allow the bread to rise too much, and cause it to 
run over the sides of the pans, which detracts from the flavor of the 
bread. If the oven is too hot it crusts over the top of the loaf and 
causes it to crack at the sides; it will also crack at the sides if it has 
not sufiiciently risen in the pan before putting it in the oven. 

Remember then, that bread should be thoroughly baked, for 
slack baked bread is both unwholesome and unpalatable; and also 
that bread which "doughs" in the mouth will "dough" in the stom- 
ach, and hence is very indigestible, because it becomes a sticky mass 
which the digestive fluids do not readily penetrate. 

After the loaves are baked put them where the air can freely circu- 
late around them, thus cooling them quickly and carrying away any 
gas remaining about them; do not leave them in the j)ans. A fine 
wire frame is sometimes used to set them on; or turn the pan bottom 
upward and place the loaf on it, bottom upward also. Do not wet 
the crust or put a wet towel over it; a little butter or lard may be 
rubbed over the crust if preferred, but the moisture from the cooling 
bread will soften the crust sufficiently, and the bread keeps better to 
be cooled quickly. A thin dry cloth may be thrown over if there are 
flies about. 

The best bread cloths are made from coarse table linen. Do not 
use them for anything else, and keep them scrupulously clean. 

Bread keeps best in a tin box with a cover which shuts ilowu tight- 
ly to keep it from drying out quickly. It must be thoroughly cold 
before iDutting it in the bread-box, or it will not keep well, and be- 
sides the steam from the bread will cause the box to rust — two thingo 



BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 261 

to be carefully avoided. Do not wrap bread with a cloth while in the 
box, as it is then more apt to mold. If the box is rusty, put a plate 
or platter in the bottom of the box for the bread to rest on. 

If hot bread is put on a wooden table, spread on a cloth before 
doing so, or the part of the bread which touches the table will sweat 
and absorb the odor of the wood. 

Heat the knife when cutting either warm bread or cake, as it 
then cuts much smoother. 

The Bread=box and Remnants. — On the day of baking, while the 
bread is cooling, take all the old pieces from the box, wash, scald, 
and thoroughly dry it, and let it stand in the sun, if possible, until 
the bread is ready to go into it. If there are pieces of old bread left, 
use them in some way, by making them into toast; or, if not enough 
for that, put them on a tin and dry them in the oven, roll fine, and 
use them in puddings, griddle^cakes, croquettes, or in escalloped or 
gratinated dishes. Do not allow a particle of the old bread to go 
back into the bread^box with the new; put it under a pan to keep 
from drying until it is time to use it. It is a good plan to dispose of 
every particle of old bread before beginning on the fresh. 

Eating Hot Bread — Bread made with yeast is indigestible when 
fresh from the oven, or on the day it is baked, because is is full of 
moisture and the starch is held together in masses which are impen- 
etrable to the saliva, and when chewed by the teeth it forms into 
leathery, poreless masses, which lie in the stomach like lead; it 
ripens, however, after being kept a day, and then the particles of the 
bread separate more easily, so that the digestive fluids can more 
readily come in contact with every portion of them. Hot yeast 
bread, rolls, biscuit, or muffins should never be eaten by persons of 
weak digestion, or by those who suffer from dyspei^sia,. 

Some people find bread indigestible which is in the least sour; a 
little lime= water (a teaspoon for each loaf of bread) is sometimes 
used in mixing the bread; the lime= water being an alkali, neutralizes 
any acid which is generated during the process of fermenta- 
tion. Soda is also sometimes used to correct the sourness in bread, 
but sourness can easily be avoided by proper care, and that is much 
the better plan. 

Mixing Different Flours.— A mixture of f wheat or rye flour and I 
cornmeal makes a bread quite as nutritious as either all wheat or 
rye bread, and more digestible because the lessened quantity of 
gluten makes it less adhesive and more readily penetrated by the 
gastric juices. 

Using Cornmeal. — In most dishes made with cornmeal the addition 



262 BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

of about 25% of wheat flour increases the adhesiveness of the mix- 
ture, and is an improvement. 

Baking Powder Bread. — If bread runs short, a tin of baking pow- 
der biscuits or a baking powder loaf of bread can be quickly made, 
and, unless it is eaten too hot, there is no danger of dyspepsia, as 
bread and biscuits made in this way easily separate into particles. 
This can be readily demonstrated by putting a slice of each kind of 
bread on a platter and wetting them with cold water; the yeast bread 
can be taken up whole from the water, while that made with baking 
powder falls apart immediately. The baking= powder bread is more 
digestible because it thus separates more readily into particles, so 
that the digestive fluids can easily attack every part, while the other 
forms a solid, nearly impenetrable mass in the stomach. Other 
advantages of baking=powder bread are that none of the starch in the 
flour is consumed by the baking powder, as is done by yeast, and 
there are certainly no yeast germs in the bread when eaten. 

Using Pastry Flour. — It is a generally safe rule to use pastry flour 
whenever baking powder is used, and patent flour with yeast. A 
mixture of ^ spring wheat or pastry flour, and ^ winter wheat or pat- 
ent flour, gives good results in yeast breads, and by many is pre- 
ferred to the patent flour alone. 

Prepared flour, which has the baking powder already mixed with 
it, can be obtained at grocery stores, or a quantity can easily be 
prepared at home and kept on hand for use. The proportion is 2| to 
3 teaspoons of baking powder to the quart of flour, taking care that 
it is well sifted in. 

Adding Sugar and Potatoes — In fermented bread it is best to add a 
little sugar — not enough to produce a very sweet taste, but merely 
enough to replace that which is decomposed by fermentation, and so 
restore its natural sweetness. Some people object to using sugar, 
but for the foregoing reason it is ijrobably better to use a little. Add- 
ing potatoes to bread dough, which is sometimes done, is unneces- 
sary with the best grades of flour, but with the inferior grades it im- 
proves the bread. 

The Peinoiples Involved. — As the making of bread is the most important 
method of cooking grain food, let us examine the process a little and find the 
principles involved. Grinding the grain removes the indigestible bran, and by 
reducing it to a powder it vastly increases the surface exposed to the action of the 
■water and yeast. The water when added causes the expansion of the starch cells, 
and it also gives an agreeable consistence to the bread after it is baked. Each 
grain of flour should be surrounded by a thin film of water; a white, powdery ker- 
nel of unmixed flour is sometimes seen in bread when this is not done. 

Adding a little salt not only causes the dough to rise better in the oven, but 
probably ;it enables the albuminous matter to set more re ;ulily, and thus helps to 
prevent the inflated dough from collapsing bcf.iro Ihc h.-ikiugis comulete. It also 



BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 263 

acts as a condiment and supplies the system with hydrochloric acid and soda 
which are insufficiently supplied by natural foods. 

In leavened bread the dough is subjected to fermentation before it is baked, 
by introducing leaven or yeast. The yeast cells, which are very inuch smaller than 
the grains of Hour and are dissolved in the water or milk, should be brought into 
contact with every part of the flour, and by the kneading, a small quantity of air is 
introduced which favors the subsequent fermentation. When the yeast is well 
mixed in, the action of fermentation is set up equally in all parts of the mass, but, 
if not well mixed, there will be an accumulation of gas in some places, and little or 
none elsewhere. After introducing the yeast the dough is set aside to ferment and 
it is put in a warm place because moderate heat stimulates the process — about 70° 
to 80° is right. " 

During the process of fermentation millions of small bubbles of carbonic acid 
gas are generated, and these bubbles permeate the mass. These bubbles of gas, 
being very light, naturally rise, but they are held in by the tough, elastic and 
sticky gluten, and so they lift the whole mass and cause it to " rise " or increase in 
bulk. If it was not for this adhesive gluten, the gas would readily escape without 
lifting the bread, and it is because cornmeal and oatmeal lack gluten, and so are 
not "sticky" enough, that they do not make good bread. 

To have good bread, it should undergo 2 fermentations, (1) the saccharine (or 
sweet) fermentation, and (2) the vinous. It will smell a little like foaming beer in 
this stage. A third, or acetous fermentation would follow, but it should never 
be allowed to reach this stage. Should this happen-, it can be remedied by add- 
ing 1 teaspoon of soda for each qt. of water or 4 qts. of flour used, because soda 
being an alkali, will neutralize any acid which has been generated, but the bread 
will not afterward be as healthful or nutritious. Bread raised but once is coarse 
of grain but sweet to the taste. 

The risen dough is baked in an oven at a temperature varying between 320° 
and 572°; the alcohol and carbonic acid gas are expelled, the yeast germs are (or 
should be) destroyed by the heat, and various chemical changes are effected. The 
starch granules are mostly ruptured and intimately connected with the gluten, 
a portion of the starch near the surface is converted into dextrin, and a little cara- 
tnel is usually produced. 

It is this conversion of the starch into dextrin which makes the crust more 
easily digested than the center — a fact which some people do not understand. 
This turning of the starch to dextrin is the same thing which takes place when 
bread is toasted, as we have explained under toast. More of the starch is turned 
to dextrin in the crust than in the center because it is heated more. The evapora- 
tion of the water inside the loaf while baking, keeps down the temperature there 
to about 212°. 

Some time before the cooking is complete the generation of carbonic acid gas 
will stop, but by that time a hard crust should be formed which will prevent the 
dough from falling. Flour mixed with water and baked, without being made to 
" rise" by using yeast or baking powder, would be solid and almost impenetrable 
by the digestive fluids, and therefore very indigestible, but the expansion caused 
by the carbonic acid gas separates the particles of gluten, and leaves the bread full 
of little holes, into which the digestive fluids readily enter, and so attack the 
bread in every part. 

It will be seen that, as a result of the foregoing processes, bread differs in many 
important respects from the flour from which it is made. In leavened bread the 
albumen is coagulated, the starch cells are ruptured, a portion of the starch is 
turned to sugar, and part of that is decomposed into carbonic acid gas and alco- 
hol, and part is turned to dextrin and maltose, and a little caramel is often pro- 
duced. The alcohol generated by decomposing the sugar is all evaporated before 
the bread is fully baked. 

YEAST. 

THREE HOUR YEAST.— Take 1 cup of flour, | cup of sngar, 3 

tablespoons of salt; pour over this 1 pint of boiling water; let it cool, 

then add 1 cup of hop yeast. After this gets light, take 8 qts. of 

mashed boiled potatoes, and 3 qts. of warm water and add to the 



^64 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

other. It will be ready for use the next day. Then 1 qt. of this 
yeast and 1 qt. of warm water will make 6 loaves of bread. With 
this yeast, bread will rise in 3 hours and the bread can be baked the 
same day, which is quite an advantage. 

HOP YEAST — Take 1 qt. of water, steep a small handful of 
hops in it, and when it has boiled for a few minutes strain this water 
on 6 grated potatoes; then boil them until clear, say 20 minutes, 
stirring all the time; if the potatoes are large, and the paste becomes 
too thick, add a little more water; while it is boiling, stir in ^ cup of 
sugar and a tablespoon of salt; when it has cooled so that it is luke- 
warm, add a teacup of yeast; let it rise over night, then stir it down, 
and put in the yeast jar; cover tightly and set it in the cellar. This 
yeast usually keeps 2 weeks in hot weather, and longer in cold. A 
coffee-cup of this yeast, and 2 qts. of warm water or milk, with a 
little salt, and lard or butter, will make 6 or 8 loaves of bread, 
according to the size of the pans. 

POTATO BALL YEAST.— Take a pint of finely mashed boiled 
potatoes and have it as dry as jDossible; add 2 tablespoons of sugar, 
and 1 tablespoon of salt. Soak 1 fresh yeast cake in as little water 
as possible, and when the potato is cool add the yeast; mix thorough- 
ly, and set it in a cool place for 2 or 3 days. When you wish to set 
bread to rise, have about as much fresh mashed potato, with sugar 
and salt added, as you took at first; mix this thoroughly with the 
first, then divide it in half; roll up one half in a ball for the next 
baking; add the other half to water sufficient for sponge for the 
bread. 

MILK YEAST OR RISING.— Take 1 pint of new milk; in the 
morning add ^ teaspoon of salt; stir in, and beat for ^ minute, 2 
tablespoons of flour; then place the pitcher in a kettle of warm 
water, and where it will keep warm, but not hot (about 110°). It 
takes about 5 hours for it to rise. Instead of milk, water is some- 
times used, and then it is called salt=rising. Mix the rising with a 
quart of warm water and a little salt; make a stiff sponge, and let it 
rise again; then mold and put in the pans to bake. 

YEAST CAKES. — Take common home=made yeast, and when 
the fermentation ceases stir in enough cornmeal to make a dough. 
Roll out, cut in squares, and dry thoroughly. Do not dry in the 
oven as the heat will kill the yeast germs; choose a dry day to make 
them, and dry in the shade rather than in the sun. Keep them 
where it is shady, but where the air circulates freely; they will keep 
indefinitely. 



BEEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 265 

On examining yeast under a microscope it is found to consist of a collection 
of small oval cells, of a vegetable nature, known as yeast cells, or yeast plant. It 
is really a living plant, and if this was well understood many mistakes in its use 
could be avoided. Extremes of heat and cold kill it, and an unfavorable tempera- 
ture will check its active growth, even though it may not be hot or cold enough to 
kill or prevent its growing in future under more favorable conditions. The better 
the food suits the yeast the faster it grows. Rough usage will also prevent its 
growth. Under favorable conditions it grows very fast, as much as will lie on a 25 
cent piece will fill a cup in 1 or 2 hours. Given a little good yeast and any amount 
more can be grown. People talk about keeping yeast, but it is only kept as one 
year's corn is kept to be sown for the next year's crop. 

Yeast as it grows converts into sugar some of the starch with which it comes 
in contact, and this sugar it decomposes into alcohol and carbonic acid gas, and it 
is to this action that it owes its value, because the carbonic acid gas thus formed 
will permeate the mass and cause it to "rise." 

The yeast plant can live in a temperature ranging between 30° and 170°, but 
it thrives best between 70° and 80°. * 

Good yeast is yellow, or greyish yellow in color; the more brown it is the 
more dead germs there are. A blue line sometimes appears; it is due to mold, and 
bread made from such yeast will soon become moldy. Yeast with a pungent odor, 
and which is foamy and full of bubbles is good; if it has an acid odor and looks 
watery it has spoiled. Potato starch is the best for the growth of the yeast plant, 
and old potatoes are preferable to new for the reason that there is more sugar in 
them. If all the starch cells in the flour or potato used are broken by boiling, the 
yeast acts on them more readily. 

Salt and sugar are added to aid the fermentation. The office of hops or 
ginger when used is to keep the yeast from souring, which they do by stopping 
the fermentation before all the sugar is decomposed into alcohol, and if too much 
is not used they give it a pleasant flavor. Tin or iron vessels may turn the yeast 
dark, but this can be prevented by mixing with a wooden spoon in an earthen 
vessel, and boiling the potatoes and hops in a non=metallic kettle, either granite or 
porcelain lined. Of the 3 kinds of yeast in common use — liquid, dry and com- 
pressed — each has its advantages, and any kind is good which makes good bread. 

BAKING POWDEE. 

8 ounces cream of tartar. 4 ounces of corn^starch. 

4 ounces baking soda. 

Powder the ingredients and sift them together several times, as 
the chief danger of failure lies in not having them well mixed. This 
baking powder will do all that can be done by any baking powder on 
the market. The U. S. Department of Agriculture has fully tested 
and recommends this powder, their chemist saying in his report: 
" The consumer can i^ay full retail price for the ingredients and still 
make it up for about ^ the price at which a good baking powder is 
sold, and if she makes sure of the quality of her cream of tartar, she 

will have an article of which the purity is assured I can 

see no reason why all housekeepers should not make their own 
baking powder." 

Baking powder should always be mixed with the flour before 
adding the ether ingredients. 

The action of baking powder consists in the fact that when wet with water the 
alkali (soda) and the acid (cream of tartar) of which it is composed, will effervesce, 
and in so doing will give off carbonic acid gas; this operates in the same way ns 
the gas genera^^^d by yeast — that is, it permeates the mass of dough and causes it 



266 BREADS 

to "rise" or swell up. The action of the baking powder will soon be over, how- 
ever, and if the bread or pastry is not baked at once, the gas which it generates 
will escape, the dough will settle down in a solid mass, and the whole value of the 
powder will be lost. 

To succeed when using baking powder or soda 2 things are essential: (1) The 
baking powder (or soda and cream of tartar) must be thoroughly and perfectly 
mixed with the flour. (2) After the raising agencies have been wet so that they 
begin to work, push the operation rapidly to completion; and when all is ready 
bake without delay. After the soda and acid are mixed to form the baking pow- 
der they do not act on each other as long as they are kept dry; the only reason for 
adding starch or flour is to absorb moisture and keep them dry. As soon as they 
are wet the action begins. 

Baking powder can be made by using only 3^ as much starch as we give in 
the above formula, or with even less; the powder will then be a little stronger, but 
it will not keep as well, so that for ordinary use we prefer the proportions there 
given. If you cannot get pi(?-e cream of tartar use tartaric acid instead, as that is 
less often adulterated. It answers the same purpose, but use only ],^ as much. 

People as a rule will not tire of yeast bread as quickly as they will of soda 
bread, and inferior materials can be used with yeast better than with baking 
powder. 



BREADSo 

The Time to Bake Bread is f to 1 hour, but it is better to bake 
10 minutes longer than not enough. 

WHITE BREAD. 

Take 1| quarts of milk and scald it till the top is covered with a 
thin skin, by setting it over a good fire in a double boiler; then pour 
it out and let it cool after adding 1 oz. butter; now add 1 cake com- 
pressed yeast dissolved in 1 cup lukewarm water. After it has 
cooled, add 1 tablespoon of salt, and about 1^ quarts of flour (or 
enough to make a good batter) and for 5 minutes beat energetically; 
then set it in a warm place to rise over night, covering it with a 
cloth. The next morning early, while it is still in the bowl, work in 
with the hand about 4 pints of flour (or enough to form a good 
dough); then take it out on to the bread-board and knead 15 or 20 
minutes. Sufficient kneading is essential to the quality of the 
bread, so work it till the dough is soft and the gas thoroughly 
distributed through it. Then i^ut it back in the bowl and set it in a 
warm place till it becomes quite light (about 3 hours probably). 
Shape into loaves and put into the pans, and bake when risen, 
pricking with a fork to let out any gas within the loaf. Time to 
bake, 50 to 60 minutes, 

WATER BREAD. 

Mix together 1| quarts of bread flour and 1 teaspoon of salt; rub 
in 1 teaspoon of butter until fine like meal. Soak a whole yeast cake 



BREADS 267 

in ^ cup of lukewarm water, and mix the liquid with the dry mix- 
ture; add enough more flour to make it stiff' enough to knead, and, 
when well kneaded, place it in a bowl, cover it well and set it to rise 
for 3 hours; then cut it down, shape into loaves, place in buttered 
pans, let it rise again, and bake about 50 minutes. If the bread is 
set to rise at night, use J of a yeast cake, but, as we elsewhere ex, 
plain, the latest investigations point to a quick rising as best. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. 

Scald 1 pint milk, add ^ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt; after 
it has cooled, add 1 yeast cake dissolved in ^ cup of lukewarm water, 
and 4^ cups of fine granulated wheat; mix well with a broad knife or 
spoon; cover, and set it to rise for about 3 hours, or until it doubles 
its bulk; then cut it down, turn it into buttered pans, let it rise again, 
and bake about 50 minutes, Whole or entire wheat bread is mixed 
soft, or only stiff enough to handle with a spoon or knife. Entire 
wheat bread is more crumbly than white wheat bread. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD No. 2. 
Take 4 even cups of entire wheat flour, and 1 cup plain white 
flour (before sifting), ^ of a compressed yeast cake (dissolve it in 
lukewarm water), 1 tablespoon of butter (before melting), ^ cup of 
molasses; stir in lukewarm milk and water to make it less stiff than 
for white bread; beat and stir, but do not knead it; turn into a 
greased baking^pan, let stand till light, and bake nearly an hour. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Take 2 pints flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 1 saltspoon of 
salt; mix thoroughly, and then stir in 2 cups cold water; turn into a 
well greased baking^pan and bake 1 hour. 

HALF AND HALF BREAD. 

A very nice bread is made by using 3 cujds each of white flour 
and granulated or entire wheat flour; add the other ingredients and 
mix as directed in the last recipe. 

Entii'e wheat is sometimes called graham, but is not exactly the same, as it has 
all the nutritive part of the grain without the silica in the bran, which is like pow- 
dered glass, and .often irritates the stomach and intestinal canal. Always buy the 
best graham and entire wheat, as the cheaper grades may be siftings mixed with 
third rate flour. Before measuring entire wheat flour, sift it, not to remove the 
bran, but to make it lighter; if unsifted, the measurements will not be accurate. If 
graham or entire wheat bread is moistened with molasses, do not set it to rise over 
night, for you will then surely have an acetous fermentation. As entire wheat flour 
is much more nutritious than clear white flour, its more extended use is very desir- 
able. 

MILK BREAD. 

Take 2 cups scalded milk, in which molt 1 tablespoon butter; add 



268 BREADS 

1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar; when cool add | cup yeast, 
and stir in just flour enough to knead it well — about 6 to 7 cui)s. 
Knead well, cover, let rise till light; cut down, divide into 4 parts, 
shape into loaves or biscuit, put into j)ans, let rise again, and bake. 
Time to bake, 40 to 50 minutes. 

BAKING POWDER BREAD. 
Sift together thoroughly 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, \ tea- 
spoon sugar, and 2 heaping teasjpoons baking powder. Then add 
enough water to make a stiff dough (about 2 cups, more or less, ac- 
cording to the flour) and stir it together quickly with a large spoon; 
then turn it immediately into a well greased, brick=shaped bakings 
pan, and bake at once for | hour in a hot oven, covering with paper 
the first ^ hour, to prevent its crusting over too soon. Have the oven 
heated right before beginning to mix the bread, and have the pan 
greased and ready. 

ONCE.RAISED BREAD. 
Have the bread-bowl . warm, if it is an earthen one, and the 
weather cold; put a piece of butter in it the size of an egg, and a 
tablesi^oon of salt; then pour over it a qt. of hot milk and water; stir 
cold flour into it, until it is a batter that can be beaten with a spoon, 
and beat well for a minute; then add a cake of compressed yeast 
mixed with a little cold water. The batter at this time should be 
lukewarm; wait a little for it to cool if it is too hot, but the cold flour 
usually makes it just right; beat in the yeast another minute, then 
place a pan of flour on the back part of the stove, i^ut both hands in 
it and stir constantly from the bottom of the pan, until the flour feels 
warm all through; then stir into the batter enough to make a stiff 
dough — cutting in the flour with the spoon — do not knead it; put a 
little flour on the to^j and press it down flat all around the spoon 
with the back of the fingers. Set the bowl or pan over a kettle or tin 
pail of hot water on the cooking table, cover with a cloth, and let it 
rise up light, which will be in B hours; stir down once, let it come up 
again, take it on the moldings board, with a little flour, and knead 10 
minutes; make in 3 small loaves, let them rise to twice their former 
bulk, and bake nearly an hour. Bread mixed in this way, as late as 
10 o'clock, will be out of the oven by 3 in the afternoon, making a 
delicious bread with little trouble. 

MILK, OR SALT RISING BREAD. 
Early in the morning (the earlier the better) mix in a pitcher a 
pint of warm water, or | water and -| new milk, with flour enough vo 



BREADS 269 

make a thin batter. Put the pitcher in a kettle of warm water, and 
keep it at an even heat— about 70° to 80°. Cover the pitcher with a 
saucer, and in about 5 hours it will begin to rise (not frothy, like 
hop yeast, but with very fine bubbles); then add 1 qt. water with a 
little more salt, and mold in flour to make a soft dough, and put it in 
3 brick'shaped baking-tins to rise. When it has risen to nearly 
twice its bulk in the pans, it is ready to bake. This bread requires 
great care in making, and much time. It gives off a disagreeable gas 
while rising, but that is all driven off in the baking, leaving a fine= 
grained, most delicious bread. 

BUTTERMILK BREAD. 

Take 2 cups sour buttermilk, warm it, and add 1 cake of yeast 
and 1 teaspoon soda (scant); add 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 tablespoon butter and form to a soft dough with warm flour; knead 
well, let it rise, knead again, put in greased tins, let rise and bake 
about 1 hour, 

BROWN BREAD, 

2 cups cornmeal. 1 cup graham flour. 
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup rye meal.. 1 cup molasses. 

1 cup water. A little salt. 

Bake 2 hours in a covered tin. 

BROWN BREAD No. 2. 

2 cups sweet milk. 4 cups cornmeal. 

1 cup molasses. 2 teaspoon-s salt, scant. 

2 cups sour milk. 2 cuids flour. 

^ cup sugar. 2 teaspoons soda. 

Steam 3 hours, and bake ^ hour. 

BROWN BREAD No. 3. 
8 cups sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 cups cornmeal. 1 cup graham flour. 

-| cup molasses. A little salt. 

Steam 3 hours and bake ^ hour. If the milk is very sour, use ^ 
sweet milk. 

BROWN BREAD No. 4. 

1 cup sour milk. | cup wheat flour. 

2 cups graham flour. 2 tablespoons brown sugar. 
1 teaspoon salt. 1 large teaspoon soda. 

^ cup molasses, scant. 

Steam 2| hours, and bake -| hour in a slow oven. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 
Take 1 cup each of cornmeal, rye meal and graham meal; mix all 



270 BREADS 

three together; mix in 1 cup molasses, 3 cups rich sour milk, 1 des- 
sertspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Put it in a covered pail, leaving 
room for it to rise, set it in a kettle of cold water, putting a ring un- 
der the pail to keep it from burning; boil 4 hours, and do not once 
et the water stop boiling, and do not remove the cover till done. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD No. 2. 
Take 2 cups cornmeal, and the same of either rye or graham 
flour; sift together with 1 teaspoon salt; add 1 cup molasses, f cup 
sour milk or cream, 1 teaspoon soda (dissolved in a little boiling 
water); mix all well and add 2^ cups cold water; pour into a well 
greased pan and steam 4 hours. It will look thin when ready to 
steam, but will come out all right. 

CORN BREAD. 
Warm 1 pint of milk, stir in enough cornmeal to make a thin 
batter, add ^ cup shortening, 3 eggs, 1 heaiaing teaspoon of baking 
powder; heat the tins it is to be baked in, and bake quickly. It is 
splendid, and bakes promptly. As a rule corn bread requires a 
longer time to bake than either graham or wheat bread. 

CORN BREAD No. 2. 

Mix ^ cup cornmeal with 1 cup white flour, and add 1 teaspoon 
salt. Beat together till light, 1 egg and 2 tablespoons sugar; add 3 
tablesjioons melted butter, and | cup sweet milk; then stir in the 
above flour mixture, beat smooth and add 2 teaspoons baking pow- 
der. Put into greased pans, and bake ^ hour in a moderately quick 
oven. 

STEAMED CORN BREAD. 

Take 2 cups sour milk, 2 cups cornmeal, ^ cup white flour, 4 
tablespoons molasses, 2 teaspoons soda, a little salt; steam 1^ hours, 
and bake ^ hour. 

WHITE CORN BREAD (Southern). 
2 cups white cornmeal, 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup white flour. 1 teaspoon sugar. 

1 tablespoon baking powder. Butter size of an egg. 

Use milk or water to make a soft dough; bake in a loaf, or if 
preferred, in shallow baking-tins. 

KENTUCKY EGG CORN BREAD. 

Take 2 pints cornmeal, 3 cups buttermilk, 1 or 2 eggs, 1 tea- 
spoon soda (scant), 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon lard; mix well, and 
bake quickly. 



BREADS 271 

RICE BREAD. 

Boil 1 lb. rice till tender in water or milk (milk is best) and 
mash it; then with the hands, rub the rice into 4 lbs. flour, in the 
same manner that butter is rubbed in, mixing it thoroughly; add 3 
teaspoons sugar, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 cake compressed yeast dis- 
solved in 2 pints lukewarm milk or water, have the dough soft to the 
touch, knead thoroughly, and let it rise, then knead again thor- 
oughly, form into loaves, put into greased pans, let rise, and bake in 
a good oven. Excellent, especially if made with milk. 

CAROLINA RICE BREAD. 

Take 3 well=beaten eggs, add 3 cups sweet milk, 2 cups white corn- 
meal, ^ pint cold boiled rice; 1 tablespoon butter, melted, 1 teaspoon 
salt; beat together well, and add 1 tablespoon baking powder; mix 
all thoroughly, put in greased pans, and bake | hour. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

3 cups sour milk. 1 cuj) molasses. 

2 teaspoons soda. 1 egg. 

1 teaspoon salt, 

Graham flour to make a stiff dough; bake slowly. 

GRAHAM BREAD No. 2. 
Make a stiff batter of 1 cup warm water thickened with graham 
flour; add to it ^ cup of yeast; let it rise over night; in the morning 
add a small piece of butter, ^ cup sugar, and wheat flour to mold; 
put it in well greased pans, let it rise, and bake slowly 1 hour. Gra- 
ham bread bakes slower than white bread. 

GLUTEN BREAD. 

Scald 2 cups milk and add, when lukewarm, 1 teaspoon salt and 
i cup good yeast; make it to a thick batter by adding gluten flour, 
and beat thoroughly; add the well beaten whites of 2 eggs, and 
enough flour to make a soft dough. Knead (without adding more 
flour), let stand until light; turn into well greased pans, let rise 
again, and then bake in a moderate oven | hour. 

OATMEAL BREAD. 

Boil 2 cups oatmeal as for jDorridge, add ^ teaspoon salt, and 
when cool, ^ cup molasses, and |- a yeast cake or ^ cup yeast; stir in 
enough wheat flour to make as stiff as it can be stirred with a spoon; 
put it into 2 well greased tin pans, and let stand in a warm place till 
very light; bake about 1^ hours. Do not cut until the day after it is 
baked. This will make delicious thin slices; butter each slice before 
cutting it from the loaf, and then cut as thin as possible with a very 
sharp knife. 



•!72 BREADS 

RYE BREAD. 

Bread made of bolted rye flour is made in the same manner as 
white wheat bread; that made from rye meal is made according to 
recipes for graham bread. Rye bread is often made with 4 parts rye 
flour, 1 part cornmeal, and a handful of wheat flour. It should bake 
2 or 3 hours in a slow oven; or steam it 2 hours, and then bake 1 
hour. 

PUMPKIN BREAD. 

Make a plain corn-bread batter; beat into it 1 cup of stewed 
pumpkin (that left from dinner will do). Bake in either the bread 
pan or in gem tins. 

SQUASH BREAD. 

Take 1 cup stewed and sifted squash, and mix in 2 tablespoons 
of sugar and 1 teaspoon salt; melt 1 tablesiDoon butter in 1| cups 
scalded milk, and when- lukewarm, add ^ cup yeast, and flour enough 
to knead; knead ^ hour, let rise till light; knead again, put it into 
greased tins, let rise again, and bake. 

UTILIZING STALE BREAD. 
(1) Bread crumbs can be utilized in so many ways that every 
piece of stale bread and the ends of loaves should be saved and pre- 
pared for use in the various dishes which call for bread crumbs. 
(2) Put the stale bread on a baking4in, and set it on the shelf in 
the oven where it will dry and slightly brown; when thoroughly 
crisp, place it on the molding=board, roll it finely, and keep it in a 
jar well covered. These are dried bread crumbs and should not be 
used for scalloped dishes or bread puddings, as they absorb so much 
moisture. (3) Stale bread crumbs can be made into griddle cakes; 
or used in an omelet; or used with stewed tomatoes, and in many 
ways. 

Steamed Stale Bread — When bread or biscuit become very dry they 
may be steamed a few minutes, which will make them very palat- 
able. Stale i3ieces can be freshened by dipping them in water, and 
putting them for a few minutes in a moderately hot oven. A stale 
whole loaf can be freshened in this way without first dipping in 
water, although many cooks are not aware of it; for this purpose 
the oven should not be too hot — say 260° to 300° is best. The 
steam which is generated opens out the pores which had shrunk 
together. Or put a stale loaf in a deep pan, cover with another pan, 
and set in a moderate oven 20 minutes; then take from the pan and 
set on (^nd to cool; it will cut like a fresh loaf. 



BISCUITS 273 

BISCUITS. 

Time to Bake Biscuits, about 10 to 20 minutes. 

BAKINQ=POWDER BISCUITS — Have the oven hot to begin 
with, then rub a piece of butter the size of an English walnut into 
a cup of flour, and butter your baking-tins Next put a level tea- 
spoon of salt, and two heaping teaspoons of baking powder in the 
flour, and stir it well. U]p to this time you can work leisurely, but 
from this onward, work as fast as you can " fly." Add a cup of 
sweet milk, stir it, and add enough more flour to make a soft dough; 
take it out onto the molding-board, and form it quickly into a round 
mass; cut it in 2 parts, then 4, then 8; give the pieces just a roll 
in the floured hands, put it in the tin, and bake 8 or 10 minutes. The 
oven should brown them top and bottom in that time. Everybody 
likes them. 

CREAM BISCUIT.— To 1 quart of flour use 2 teaspoons baking 
powder a pinch of salt, and rich sweet cream to make a soft dough. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

BEAT BISCUIT — Take 2 quarts of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 ta- 
blespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of lard rubbed in the flour; mix 
to a stiff dough with water. Beat with the rolling-pin until perfect- 
ly light, turning and folding as you work; do not cut the dough, 
but break off pieces and form into little biscuits, and bake in a 
quick oven. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BEAT BISCUIT.— Take 1 quart whole wheat 
flour, 3 rounded tablespoons lard, 4 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon 
salt, 1 cup each of water and milk; mix thoroughly, lay it on the 
molding^board, and beat with the rolling=pin until it ceases to be 
sticky; roll out, cut into biscuits (be sure and thoroughly prick 
each one), and bake f hour in a moderate oven. 

For Wafers take some of the dough so prepared, roll thin, but- 
ter it, beat again, roll very thin, cut out, and bake. 

RAISED BISCUIT — Set a sponge of 2 cups milk, a little salt 
and -^ cake compressed yeast, and let it rise; beat butter the size of 
an egg with 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 egg; stir them into the sponge, 
adding flour to make a stiff batter; stir well, let it rise, and when 
light, take dough enough with a spoon for each biscuit, work light- 
ly into shape, put in a pan, let rise, and bake. 

MILK BISCUIT.— Rub ^ lb. butter and 1 saltspoon of salt into 
2^ lbs. flour; add 1 cup yeast and enough boiled milk (have it 

18 



271 BUNS, RUSKS, EOLLS, ETC 

lukewarm wlien used) to make a tolerably stiff dougli; kuead well, 
let it rise over night, knead again in the morning, put into greased 
tins, let rise, and bake in a quick oven. 

BUTTERMILK BJSCUIT.— Sift 4 cups flour, add 1 teaspoon 
soda, ^ teaspoon salt, and rub in one tablespoon lard, and 1 tablespoon 
butter ; make into a soft dougli v\^ith buttermilk, roll out, cut out, and 
bake quickly. 

DROP BISCUIT.— Take 1 cup milk, 1 level teaspoon salt, 1 
tablespoon baking powder stirred into 1 cup flour ; beat all together, 
and add enough flour to make a stiff batter. Drop in spoonfuls on a 
buttered tin and bake quickly in a hot oven. 

Drop Biscuit No. 2.— Take 1 quart flour, add 1 tablespoon 
sugar, ^ teaspoon oalt, 3 heaping teaspoons baking powder, and milk 
sufficient to form a stiff batter. Drop in spoonfuls on a buttered 
tin, and bake in a very quick oven. 

SHORTCAKE BISCUIT.— To 4 cups flour use 1 large tablespoon 
butter, a little salt, 3 teaspoons baking powder (heaped), and milk 
enough to roll out as soft as possible. 

SODA BISCUIT. — Into 4 cups sifted flour sift 1 teaspoon soda, 
2 teaspoons cream tartar and 1 teaspoon salt; rub in with the hand 1 
tablespoon lard or butter; make it into a soft dough with sweet milk. 

GRAHAM BISCUIT — Use 2 cups graham flour, 2 cups wheat 
flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 tablespoons molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 2 
teaspoons cream of tartar (or 3 teaspoons baking powder instead), a 
little salt; sift the last 3 ingredients into the wheat flour, add the 
graham flour, rub into the butter thoroughly, moisten with milk or 
water to make a dough just stiff enough to roll out; roll thin, cut in 
small cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Double this recipe if the 
family requires it. 

TUTTI FRUTTI BISCUIT.— Mix bits of fruit liberally into the 
dough of common soda biscuit before baking it, as fruit is put into 
cake; very nice. Tea rolls are nice v\'ith fruit put in in the same 
way. 

BUNS, RUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 

BUNS. 

Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

PLAIN. — Use 1 quart flour, 1 large cup warm milk, J cup butter 
or lard, ^ teaspoon salt, ^ cup sugar, i a grated nutmeg, i a yeast 
cake (or ^ cup yeast), 2 eggs; dissolve the butter in the milk, boat 



BUNS, RUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 275 

the eggs separate, add all to the flour; the dough should be very 
soft; knead well, let rise over night, and in the morning break into 
pieces the size of a large egg, work them into rather flat cakes, put 
them on a buttered pan, about ^ inch apart, let rise to double size, 
then cut a cross on top of each bun (not too deep) with a sharp 
knife, and bake in a moderate oven about 25 minutes. 

ENGLISH BUNS — Use | teacup butter rubbed into 1 pint 
flour, I cup sugar, ^ cup Zante currants washed and dr:' 3d, 1 level 
teaspoon salt, 2 cups new milk, ^ cup good yeast; mix a' i together, 
and add enough flour to mold into a soft dough, let rise till light, 
mold down again, keeping the dough as soft as possible, roll out, and 
cut with a biscuit cutter. Let them rise till very light in the bak- 
ing=tins, and bake until they are a nice yellowish brown on top and 
bottom — about 25 minutes. Brush them over to glaze with a little 
sugar and milk mixed, and return to the oven till the glazing dries. 

CINNAMON BUNS.— Rub ^ teacup butter into a coffee cup of 
flour; add a little salt, and a heaping teaspoon of baking powder; 
then add a coffee cup of sweet milk, and enough flour to roll out into 
a large thin sheet. Spread with soft butter, sprinkle with sugar and 
cinnamon, roll up, and cut into buns. Bake about 20 minutes. 

RUSKS. 
Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

PLAIN.— Into 1 quart of flour rub a piece of butter the size of a 
large egg; beat 2 eggs well, add 2 cups warmed new milk, flavor with 
a little cinnamon, and add | teacup of fresh yeast; mix thoroughly 
with the flour, but do not mold; let it rise, and add a little more flour 
if too thin to mold, cut in jpieces the size of biscuits, knead each one 
separately, place in a buttered pan, let rise till quite light and bake. 

BAKING PPWDER RUSK.— Sift 2 tablespoons sugar, | teaspoon 
salt, and 1 tablespoon baking powder into 3 cups flour, and then rub 
in 2 tablespoons cold lard; add 2 well^beaten eggs, 2 cups sweet milk, 
1 teaspoon each cinnamon and nutmeg extract; mix into a dough 
soft enough to handle, and turn out on the molding board; turn 
quickly once or twice to smooth it, break off pieces about the size of 
an egg, roll into small balls with the hand, and lay close together in 
a well greased baking-tin. Wash over the top, to glaze it, with a 
little milk and melted butter mixed; bake ^ hour in a moderate oven 
Sift fine white sugar on top when cold. 

BRIOCHES. 

Dissolve ^ a yeast cake in 1 teacuji of lukewarm water; mix 



276 BUNS, KUSKS, KOLLS, ETC. 

with enough flour to make a thick sponge, cover with a cloth, and let 
rise in a warm place till it doubles in bulk; then add ^ teacup milk, 
5 eggs, 1 saltspoon salt, and ^ lb. dissolved butter; beat all together 
well, add flour to make a dough, and let rise again 1 to 1| hours; 
then turn on to the molding=board, flour as little as possible, and roll 
the sides over into the middle several times. Then form into tiny 
loaves, laying 1 flattened ball of dough onto a little larger loaf, 
making an indentation for it in the center of the lower one with the 
thumb. Brush over with white of egg, and bake in a quick oven — 
about ^ hour. 

ROLLS. 
Time to Bake rolls, 10 to 20 minutes. 

FRENCH ROLLS.— Rub 1 ounce butter in 1 quart flour; mil 
in 1 beaten egg, a little yeast, and as much milk as will make a 
rather stiff batter; beat well, but do not knead, let rise, and then 
bake in tins. Very nice. 

COFFEE ROLLS.— Take 1 quart of light dough, mix in 1 
tablesx)oon of lard and | cup of sugar; then roll thinner than biscuit, 
spread with butter, sugar and cinnamon, and sprinkle a little flour 
over. Roll up 2 turns and cut off, standing them on end in the tin; 
let rise, and bake in a quick oven. 

GRAHAM ROLLS — Mix 4 cups graham flour with enough milk 
to make a stiff batter; add \ cup good yeast and let rise over night; 
in the morning add 1 large tablespoon sugar, 2 eggs, .butter size of 
an egg, \ teaspoon soda, and a little salt; put it in cups and let stand 
20 minutes before baking. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS.— Make a hole in 2 quarts of flour, 
and pour in 1 pint of milk which has been boiled and -| cup butter or 
lard melted in it and allowed to cool; add ^ cup sugar, 1 teaspoon 
salt, and ^ cup good yeast; let it stand over night without mixing; in 
the morning, mix and knead; let rise till after dinner, when knead 
again, roll ^ inch thick, cut out, and let rise till baked. Bake about 
\ hour. 

CRACKERS. 

PLAIN. — Into 2 quarts flour rub well with the hand 1 cup 

butter, and 1 teaspoon salt; wet with cold water, beat thoroughly 

, with the rolling=pin, and work in flour enough to make quite brittle 

and hard; then pinch off pieces, and if you want them to look like 

baker's crackers, roll each piece separately. 



JOHNNY CAKE, PONES, ETC. 277 

CORN=STARCH CRACKERS.— Sift together 3 cups flour, 1 cup 
corn-starch, ^ teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon 
baking powder; rub into this 1 tablespoon lard, and add 1 cup sweet 
milk, mixing it to a smooth dough; slightly flour the bread-board, 
turn out the dough, and get it into smooth and even form with as 
little kneading as possible; then spread a clean towel over it and 
let it stand 10 minutes. Then roll very thin with the rolling-pin, 
cut with the cutter, prick with a fork, and put them on a greased 
baking- tin; wash the top of the crackers over with milk, and* bake 8 
minutes in a very hot oven. These make a delightful accompani- 
ment for salads. 

GRAHAM CRACKERS. — Sift 1 heax^ing teaspoon baking pow- 
der and 1 even teaspoon salt into 4 cups sifted graham flour; rub in 
I cup butter or lard, and make into a stiff dough with sweet milk or 
cold water; knead 10 minutes, using white flour to prevent its adher- 
ing to the board; roll thin, cut in squares, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

TO FRESHEN CRACKERS.— Stale crackers may be freshened 
by putting them in the oven for a few minutes. It is not necessary 
to moisten them. 

GKAHAM DIAMONDS. 

To 4 cups graham flour add 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, . 
and pour on boiling water to scald thoroughly; work into a soft 
dough, roll out | inch thick, cut into diamonds with a sharp knife, 
and bake 30 minutes in a quick oven, or till crisp. 



JOHNNY CAKE, PONES, ETC. 

JOHNNY CAKE. 
Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Use 1 cup sour milk, 3 tablesjooons molasses, 1 egg, -J teaspoon 
soda; add cornmeal sufficient to make a thin batter. 

POTATO JOHNNY CAKE.— To 2 cups finely mashed potatoes 
add 2 cups flour in which has been mixed ^ cuiJ of lard; add niilk 
enough to mix, and -^ teaspoon salt ; roll out and bake in a well heated 
oven. Butter and eat hot. 

Johnny Cake, No. 3 — Use 1 egg, l cup sugar, a little salt, 1 cup 
milk, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, -^ teaspoon soda, 1 cup cornmeal, 1 cup 
white flour; bake in a shallow pan in a quick oven. 



278 JOHNNY CAKES, PONES, ETC. 

Fruit with Johnny Cake — Dried fruit, such as raisins, currants, 
etc., added to johnny cake, is a pleasant addition for a change. 

CORN AND GRAHAM JOHNNY CAKE. 

3 good cups cornmeal. 3 tablespoons melted butter. 

2 good cups graham flour. 2 heaping teaspoons soda. 
1 good cup white flour. 1 good teaspoon salt. 

3 eggs. 1 quart sour milk (part of which 
^ cup molasses. may be sour cream if it is to 

• be had). 

SPIDER CAKE. 

This, as the name implies, is baked in a spider, or short handled 
frying-pan. Beat 2 eggs very light, add 1 cup sour milk, and 1 cup 
sweet; stir into this 2 cups cornmeal, and a handful of flour, 1 table- 
siDoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon each of salt and soda; mix, and beat 
thoroughly, and then pour it into the spider, which should be already 
hot and well greased. After the butter is in the spider, pour over it 
1 cup sweet milk, but do 7iot stir- it into the hatter. Bake in a hot 
oven I hour. Take it from the pan onto a plate, being careful not 
to break it. 

RICE SPIDER CAKE — Use 1 cup boiled or steamed rice, 1 cup 
yellow cornmeal (the granulated is best), 2 cujjs sweet milk, 1 table- 
spoon sugar, 1 tablespoon baking powder, and 1 level teasfDoon salt; 
mix all thoroughly, and add at least a handful of flour. After beat- 
ing in the flour, j)ut the batter in a hot buttered spider, or short 
handled frying=pan, and bake in a hot oven | hour. The batter must 
be thin enough to " run " a little, but not as soft as for griddle cakes. 
If needed to make it thinner, when the flour is added, put in a little 
more milk; if too thin add a little more flour. 

FLORIDA CORN CAKE. 
. 1 egg. 1 teaspoon sugar. 

1 cup milk or water. 2 cups white cornmeal. 

1 tablespoon salt pork fat. 1 tablespoon baking powder. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Mix all thoroughly, and bake in 2 thin cakes. 

CORN PONE. — Into 2 cups of corn meal mix 1 teaspoon of salt 
and 1 teaspoon sugar; scald with 2 cups boiling water, and let stand 
till it swells and becomes lukewarm ; then add a ^ oz. cake of com- 
pressed yeast dissolved in a little cold water; if too stiff reduce it 
with warm water to a consistency sufficient to retain its form; then 
put it in the baking^pan, let rise 4 or 5 hours, and bake in a moderate 



JOHNNY CAKES, PONES, ETC. 279 

oven till thoroughly done. Pone should be eaten fresh and warm, 
but is very nice toasted, after it is a day old. 

FLORIDA PONE— Mix 1 tablespoon of baking powder and 1 
teaspoon salt, into 2 cups of white cornmeal. Mix with sufficient 
water to make a thick batter, and beat in a tablespoon of hot salt 
pork fat. Make in a thin cake, and bake until well browned. Deli- 
cious with meat. 

HOE CAKE. — Into a mixing=bowl put 4 cups white cornmeal 
and one teaspoon salt; make it to a stiff batter with hot water, stir- 
ring it all the time. Have a pan of cold water ready, moisten the 
hands, and then with the hands press a tablespoon of the batter into 
a round, thin cake. Bake on a griddle over the fire, or on an oak 
board before an open fire, thoroughly baking first one side and then 
the other. Pull apart when done, butter, and serve hot. 

BAKED BUCKWHEAT CAKES — Mix in the mixing=bowl | 
cup buckwheat flour, 1 cup white flour, and 1 heaping teaspoon bak- 
ing powder; add -J cup light brown sugar, 1 egg well beaten, and 8 
tablespoons melted butter or lard; mix all together well, and add 
enough sweet milk to make a batter that will pour and spread slowly, 
but not as thin as for griddle cakes; hake in a deep tin in a rather 
hot oven, allowing plenty of room for it to rise. Eat hot with butter. 
Try this once and you will be surprised at its quality. By using corn- 
meal instead of the buckwheat a fine corn cake is made. 

CORN DODGERS — Into a mixing-bowl put 1 pint white corn- 
meal; scald by adding just enough boiling water to moisten the meal, 
stirring it all the time; work in 1 tablespoon butter or lard, and 
when cool add 1 well^beaten egg, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons 
milk; mix well, put by spoonfuls into a large, well greased baking- 
pan, and bake brown on both sides. 

INDIAN BANNOCK — Mix 1 cup boiling milk, | pint cornmeal, 
1 teaspoon each of salt and sugar; when partially cooled, add 2 eggs, 
beaten separately; bake in a very hot oven in a shallow earthern 
dish; serve like a pudding, in the dish it is baked in. 

GREEN CORN PATTIES.— For every cup of grated green corn 
allow 1 egg, \ cup of milk and 1 cup of flour; 1 teaspoon of baking 
powder should be well mixed with the flour. Stir all together until 
well mixed, then bake in buttered patty^pans. This recipe can be 
doubled, if the family to be served requires it. 



280 GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 

GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 

Time to Bake, ^ to ^ hour. 

WHEAT GEMS.— Beat 1 eg^ light, add 2 cups milk and 1 tea 
spoon salt, and gradually beat it into 2 cups wheat flour; put it into 
hot, well greased gem=pans, and bake about 20 minutes. 

Wheat Gems No. 2.— Use 2 cups sweet milk, 1 tablespoon butter 
2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt; flour to thicken. 

GRAHAM GEMS. — Use 2 cups sour milk, o cups graham flour 
I teaspoon soda; beat together a few minutes, drop it into hot 
greased, gem^pans, and bake in a quick oven 10 or 15 minutes. 

MUFFINS {White Flour). 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking f)owder. 
2| cups flour. 1 cup milk. 

2 eggs. Butter the size of amegg. 

Bake in cups, or hot gem=]pans. 

Muffins No. 2. — Into 3 cups flour sift 3 teaspoons baking powder, 
and a little salt; add 2 eggs and 2 cups milk; bake in a hot oven in 
rings or gem4ius. 

TEA MUFFINS — Work butter the size of an egg into 2 cups 
flour; add \ teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 2 even tea- 
spoons baking powder, and stir together thoroughly ; beat 1 egg, add 
to it 1 cujD milk, mix it with the flour quickly, and bake in a hot 
oven. This will make 1 cake in a brickshaped baking=pan; then cut 
in squares with a hot knife. 

BUCKWHEAT MUFFINS.— To 1 pint of sour milk and cream 
mixed, add 1 even teaspoon each of salt and soda, and make a stiff 
batter with buckwheat flour. Bake in a square tin, in a hot oven, 
about I hour; cut in squares, and serve hot, with fried salt pork, and 
milk gravy made in the fat. This can also be made with the pre- 
pared buckwheat flour, by making a stiff' batter with sweet milk, salt 
and shortening; put in a hot gem=pan, and serve with butter, or milk 
gravy. A good breakfast dish. 

GKAHAM MUFFINS. 

3 cups graham flour. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup white flour. 1 teaspoon salt. 

2 tablespoons sugar. 

Mix all together. Then take a jaiece of butter the size of, an egg 
and put it into 1 pint of sweet milk; set it on the stove until the but- 
ter is melted; when cool, mix all together with 2 eggs, and bake. 



GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 281 

GRAHAM MUFFINS No. 2. 

2 cups graham flour. 1 tablespoon melted shortening. 

1 cup white flour. 1 tablespoon sugar. 

2| cups sour milk. 1 tablespoon soda. Salt. 

CEREALINE MUFFINS— Take 1|- cups flour and sift in 1 tea- 
spoon salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar and 2 teaspoons baking f)owder. 
To 1 well beaten egg add | cup cold milk. Into 1 cup hot milk stir 
1 cup of cerealine and add 2 teaspoons of butter. Stir all together, 
beat well, put into well buttered pans, and bake in a quick oven. 
Time to bake, about 30 minutes. 

CORNMEAL MUFFINS — Use 1 egg, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 cups 
granulated yellow cornmeal, 1 cup white flour, 1 level teaspoon salt, 
butter size of an egg, 2 teaspoons baking x^owder. Butter the gem= 
pan and have it hot before putting in the batter; bake -| hour in a 
hot oven. 

Cornmeal Muffins No. 2. — Use 1 egg, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 cup corn- 
meal, 1 cup flour, 2 teaspoons baking j)owder, ^ tablesiDoon butter, 
^ teaspoon salt, milk to make a stiff batter. 

RAISED MUFFINS.— To 2 cups scalded milk, add butter or 
dripping the size of an egg, and 1 teaspoon salt; when lukewarm add 
I of a yeast cake dissolved in ^ teacup warm water, or ^ teacup of 
liquid yeast; add 1 egg and about 4 cups flour, or enough to make a 
batter that will drop easily, remembering that it is thinner after 
rising. Beat all well together, let rise till light, and bake in buttered 
muffin rings on a griddle, or in a gem=pan. Do not stir it down before 
baking; mix at night for breafast, and in the morning for supper. 

RICE MUFFINS — Use 1 cup cold boiled rice, 2 cups flour, 2 
eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 quart milk, or enough to 
make a thin batter; bake quickly. 

RYE MUFFINS — Sift together 1 cup wheat flour, ^ cup sugar, 
1 teaspoon cream tartar, -| teaspoon soda, ^ teaspoon salt, add 1 cup 
rye meal (not flour); beat 1 egg, add 1 cup milk, add it to the other 
ingredients, beat well, put in hot, greased muffin tins, and bake 20 
minutes in a quick oven. 

GLUTEN MUFFINS — To 1 egg, beaten light without separa- 
ting, add 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 pint gluten flour; beat 
well, add 2 teaspoons baking powder, pour into well greased, hot 
muffin ring^, and bake in a quick oven ^ hour. 

ENTIRE WHEAT MUFFINS.— Mix together 1^ cups wheat 



282 GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 

flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking 
powder; sift them into a bowl. Then beat 1 egg till light, and add 
1 cup milk and ^ cup of water; pour this on to the first mixture, and 
beat rapidly and energetically. Have buttered muffin=pans ready, 
pour in the batter, and bake in a rather quick oven about 25 min- 
nutes. The batter will be thin, and the muffins moist, but that is 
right. 

ENGLISH CRUMPETS — In 3 cups lukewarm milk, put 1 salt- 
spoon salt, and ^ a yeast cake dissolved, or | cup liquid yeast; let 
rise till light, and add 2 tablespoons melted butter, and a trifle of 
flour to keep the batter from becoming too thin; stir in hard, 1 salt- 
spoon soda, let stand ^ hour, and bake in patty^pans, or muffin=rings. 

GRAHAM CRUMPETS — Dissolve ^ cup butter in 1 quart 
scalded sweet milk, and when cool, add 1 cake compressed yeast 
(soaked in a litte water), 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar; 
add enough graham flour to make a rather stitf batter, and beat 
hard a few minutes; let rise over night in a warm place, and in the 
morning add 2 well=beaten eggs; put in buttered gem-tins, let rise 
till light, and bake in a moderate oven. 

SALLY LUNN. 

2^ cups flour. ^ cup sugar. 

1 egg well beaten. 8 tablespoons butter (melted), 

1 cujo sweet milk. 1^ teaspoons cream tartar, 

f teaspoon soda. 

Bake 20 minutes in muffin^rings, or in square pie=x3ans. 

CORNMEAL SCONES — Mix 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 tea- 
spoon salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar into 1 pint cornmeal; rub in 
with the hand 1 tables^ooon butter; make it into a batter that will 
drop from a spoon (not pour) with cold milk; bake like ordinary 
muffins in muffin=rings on a griddle. 

SCOTCH SCONES — Into 2 cups flour sift 2 small teaspoons 
baking powder; rub in with the hand 4 tablespoons butter, adding a 
little milk to bind the paste; flour the bread=board and pin, roll out 
f inch thick, cut into small 3=cornered pieces with a sharp knife; 
bake in a quick oven on a baking sheet, taking out as soon as they 
are lightly and evenly colored. 

OATMEAL CAKES — Use 2 cups of oatmeal, 2 tablespoons 
shortening (either butter, beef fat, or salt pork fat). RiTb the fat 
into the meal; add cold water enough to make a dough. Mold until 
smooth, roll out thin, cut into rounds or squares, and bake quickly in 
a hot oven. 



GRIDDLE CAKES 283 

Oatmeal Cakes No. 2 — Stir oatmeal with cold water, making a 
tliick paste; salt to taste. Make into little round cakes, about ^ inch 
thick, in tin bake^pans, and bake in an oven not too hot. 

POP OVERS — Use 1 cup of milk, 1 cup flour, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon 
butter, a pinch of salt; beat the white and yolk of the egg separately 
until very light, then beat all well together, and bake in a quick oven. 

BREAKFAST PUFFS — Use 1 cup milk, 1| cups flour, 2 eggs, 
^ teaspoon salt; beat 5 minutes, and bake in gem=pans. 

BREAD PUFFS.— Take light bread dough, roll out about | inch 
thick, cut with a biscuit-cutter, drop into boiling lard, and turn over 
very quickly. 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 

To Keep Buckwheat Batter Sweet — Cover with cold water the batter 
left after you are done baking cakes; drain it off carefully at night 
before stirring up fresh batter; the batter settles at the bottom, while 
the water absorbs the acid, thus keeping the batter sweet and fresh. 

A Substitute for Maple Syrup. — Take 2 cups light brown sugar and 
1 cup of water and boil until a nice thick syrup; then flavor with a 
teaspoon of vanilla, when nearly cold. Nice with griddle cakes and 
hot biscuits. Use other flavoring if desired. 

ImitatioQ Maple Syrup — Boil clean corn cobs in water; then remove 
the cobs, add light brown sugar and boil to a nice, thick syrup. One 
can hardly tell it from genuine maple syrup. The cobs give the 
maple flavor. The syrup is delicious. Try it. 

Caramel Syrup, a recipe for preioaring which we give among our 
" Pudding Sauces," is fine with griddle cakes. 

It is said that a common iron griddle, ground down smooth on a grindstone 
and then polished with fine sand paper on a flat piece of wood, is superior to a 
soapstone griddle, and can be used without grease. 

If buckwheat batter has a small spoonful of molasses added to it each morn- 
ing, it will give the cakes a fine brown color. Grease the griddle evenly, and do 
not leave pools of fat to burn and taint the cakes. Turn the griddle often, to 
keep it evenly heated on all sides; have it hot enough, so the mixture hisses or 
sizzles as it touches it. Do not turn the griddle cakes more than once, as that will 
them heavy. 



APPLE GRIDDLE CAKES.— Put 1 cup finely-chopped apple in 
1 quart of any griddle cake batter; distribute it evenly by stirring 
with the spoon every time a spoonful is taken out. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES.— Use 1 quart buckwheat flour, ^ cup 
cornmeal, 1 tablespoon salt, 4 tablespoons yeast, 1 tablespoon mo- 
lasses (not syrup); mix with warm water enough to make a thin 



284 GRIDDLE CAKES 

batter, and let rise over night in a warm place. If the batter is the 
least bit sour in the morning, a little soda should be ddded, and if 
not sour, a very little soda will make them more light and tender. 

QUICK BUCKWHEAT CAKES — To 2 cups of buckwheat flour, 
add 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon 
brown sugar (or New Orleans molasses instead); when ready to bake, 
add 2 cu^js cold water, or enough to make a batter, stirring as little 
as possible after it is stirred smooth. Wheat flour, cornmeal, or 
graham flour, may be added, if desired. 

CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use 1 pint cornmeal, | pint 
sour milk and 1 teaspoon soda in the milk, stirred until it foams, 2 
eggs beaten until light, salt to taste; have the griddle hot and well 
greased. About 1 tablespoon of wheat flour added to the cornmeal is 
an improvement. 

Cornmeal Griddle Cakes No. 2 — Use 1 cup sweet milk, or cold 
water, 1 egg, 2 cups yellow cornmeal, ^ cup flour, 1 tablespoon salt, 
2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Strawberries and Griddle Cakes. — If you want a delightful dish, use 
hot cornmeal griddle cakes, strawberries, sugar and cream, and com- 
bine them sandwich fashion. 

STALE BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.— Soak 2 cups stale bread 
crumbs for 1 hour in 1 quart of milk which has been made boiling 
hot to pour over them; beat 2 eggs till light, yolks and whites sei^a- 
rate; into the soaked l?reacl=batter put first the beaten yolks, then 3 
ounces flour, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 scant teaspoon salt; beat 
thoroughly, and then stir in very lightly 2 teaspoons baking x^owder 
and the beaten whites. Grease the griddle, and bake quickly in 
small cakes. These are about the lightest and most digestible grid- 
dle cakes that are made. 

OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use 1 cup oatmeal, 1 cup 
flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, |- teaspoon salt; 
sift the baking powder in with the flour; add cold water to make a 
batter the consistency of buckwheat cakes; beat together well, and 
bake immediately. 

GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use * graham and I wheat flour; 
mix with sour milk, or buttermilk, and soda (1 small teaspoon soda 
to 1 quart milk); add a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Bake immediately 
' on a hot gric'dle. 

RICE GRIDDLE CAKES.— To 1 cup boiled rice add | cup 
milk, the yolks of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons flour and a little salt; then 



WAFFLES 285 

beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them with the other 
ingredients and fry as soon as possible after they are added, on a 
hot, buttered griddle. These are light, digestible, and especially 
nice for invalids. 

RAISED GRIDDLE CAKES.— At night scald 1 cup white corn- 
meal with 2 cups boiling water; while warm stir in 2 cups flour, 2 
cups milk, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons yeast; let 
it rise over night, and in the morning add 2 eggs, a little salt, and 
»^ teaspoon baking powder; if too thin, add cornmeal till it is of the 
right consistency. 

SQUASH GRIDDLE CAKES.— Into 1 cup boiled and sifted 
squash (use dry, mealy squash) pour -| pint boiling milk; add 1 
tablespoon sugar, 2 teaspoons butter, ^ teaspoon salt; let it cool and 
add 1 welhbeaten egg, and 1 cup flour into which 2 teaspoons of bak- 
ing powder have been sifted. If too thick, thin with milk; add 
more flour if too thin. 

Pease Griddle Cakes can be made the same way, by using instead 
of the squash, 1 cui3 pease which have been boiled, mashed, and 
passed through the squash strainer. 

FLANNEL CAKES.— Make a batter with -| pint milk, and -| 
pint flour with 1 teaspoon of soda sifted into it; beat in 1 teaspoon 
melted butter, a little salt, and 1 egg; add more milk if the batter is 
too thick; bake on a griddle. 



WAFFLES. 

Grease the waffle iron thoroughly, as, if the waffles stick it is 
hard to clean. Use salt pork fat, or butter wrapped in a thin clean 
cloth. Heat the iron well, both sides, grease it and only fill about ■§ 
full, leaving room for them to rise; cook one side a minute, then turn 
and cook the other. They will take longer to bake than griddle 
cakes. , Butter as soon as done, and sprinkle on powdered sugar, or 
serve with lemon syrup, maple syrup or caramel sauce. 

WAFFLES NO. i — Into 4 cups flour sift 2 teaspoons baking 
j)owder, and 1 teaspoon each of sugar and salt; add 2 eggs, 1 table- 
spoon butter, and 1 cup either sweet or sour milk; if the later, use 
1 teaspoon soda. 

No 2. — Use 2 cups buttermilk, flour enough to make a rather 
thin batter, 1 teasxjoon each of salt and soda, 1 egii;; stir the milk, 
flour and salt toirether, sift llie t^oda in the batter, beat volk and 



286 MUSH, ETC. 

white separately, and add the white last. Have the waffle irons very 
hot, and well greased, before putting in the batter. Salt or water 
will cause the waffles to stick to the irons; the batter is also apt to 
stick if sour. If the milk is very sour a little more soda than the 
above can be used. Some people use sweet milk, and prefer it. 

RAISED WAFFLES.— To 2 cups of flour add 2 cups of milk 
and 5 tablespoons yeast; let rise over night, and in the morning 
add 2 teaspoons melted butter, ^ teaspoon salt, and 2 eggs, whites 
and yolks beaten separately. 

CORN=STARCH WAFFLES — Make a batter with 2 cups 
(heaped) corn=starch, 1 scant cup sugar, 2 eggs, a little lemon fla- 
vor, adding milk as needed; warm the molds, butter them out and 
fill; close them, place on the fire, then turn them over; repeat this 
until they are evenly baked: dust sugar over them when done. 

CORNMEAL WAFFLES — Take the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, 2 
pints sour milk or buttermilk, and enough cornmeal to make a bat- 
ter a trifle thicker than for griddle cakes; dissolve 1 teaspoon soda 
in warm water, stir it into the milk, and add a little salt. Use ^ 
wheat flour if they break in pieces while cooking. 

RICE WAFFLES. — Use 2 eggs, | cup boiled rice, 1^ cups flour, 

1 teaspoon baking powder, butter the size of a walnut, a little salt, 
1^ cups milk; mix well and bake immediately. 

RICE AND CORNMEAL WAFFLES.— Use 2 welbbeaten eggs, 
"I pint cold boiled rice, ^ pint cornmeal, ^ jDint wheat flour, ^ tea- 
spoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 

2 cups milk; beat together thoroughly before baking. 



MUSHES, ETC. 

As the grain of which mush is made is coarsely ground, in order 
to cook the starch properly and soften the cellulose, long boiling is 
required. Thorough cooking is the most important point connected 
with its preparation. 

CORNMEAL MUSH — Have the water coiling, and nothing 
short of boiling with sufficient salt in the water for seasoning. Stir 
the meal gradually, sifting it slowly through the fingers of the left 
hand while stirring with the right. Use a kettle with a rounding 
bottom. Do not make it too thick if it is to be eaten with milk, or 
with sugar and milk for dessert. If it is to fry, 1 or 2 haudiuls of 



MUSHES 287 

flour added at the last will improve it. Mush should cook very thor- 
oughly; after it is thickened enough, set it on top of the stove where 
it will cook slowly 1 or 2 hours; stir often. 

No 2. — Mix 1 cup corhmeal and 1 teaspoon salt to a paste with 
a little cold water; then pour on 2 pints boiling water, put it in a 
double boiler, and boil 4 or 5 hours. If the water cooks away add 
more boiling water from the teakettle. There is no danger of its 
burning in the double boiler. Anything will cook faster in the 
double boiler, if the water in Hie lower boiler is strongly salted. 

FRIED MUSH Put the mush in brick=shaped baking4ins used 

for bread, and when cold and solid cut in slices. The old way has 
been to fry the slices on a spider or on a griddle with salt pork fat. 
A better way is to cut the slices a little less than |- inch thick; dip 
them in beaten egg, roll in cracker or bread crumbs, and fry like 
doughnuts in hot fat. Oatmeal or other mushes may be fried in the 
same way. 

GREEN CORN MUSH.— Take corn on the cob when the milk is 
just set, grate it and make mush in the ordinary way; eat in milk. 
Excellent. 

OATMEAL MUSH — Put | pint oatmeal and 1 teaspoon salt into 
the double boiler; add 4 cups boiling water, set the upper part of the 
boiler on the stove and boil 4 or 5 minutes to start the cooking; 
then put it into the lower boiler and cook 3 to 5 hours; salting the 
water in the lower boiler makes it cook faster. It is often cooked 
so that the grains are whole, but it is not then so easily digested, 
nor so pleasant in flavor. It should be thin enough to pour when 
done, and should cool into a jelly4ike consistency. Serve with 
sugar and cream, tart jelly, apple sauce or baked apples. ■ 

Oatmeal with Figs — Add to oatmeal 5 or 6 figs cut fine; cook in 
the usual way and serve with cream and sugar. 

GRAHAM MUSH — Use a little cold water and mix to a thin 
paste ^ pint graham flour and 1 teaspoon salt; stir in 4 cups boiling- 
water, and cook like oatmeal mush, but it does not need to cook so 
long. Time to cook, about 20 minutes. Just before taking graham 
mush from the fire, stir in stoned dates, and you will find it makes 
a very nice pudding. 

BUCKWHEAT MUSH.— Mush made of buckwheat flour is made 
in the same way as cornmeal mush, but requires less cooking. 
When cold it can be fried, if desired, like cornmeal mush. 



288 MUSHES 

GLUTEN MUSH. — Use 2 cups boiling water to 1 cup gluten' 
cook like graliani musl?. It does not thicken because it contains no 
starch. 

RYE MUSH. — Cook as directed for graham mush. It is served 
with molasses often. 

HOMINY MUSH. — Cook in a double boiler 3 or 4 hours as di- 
rected for oatmeal mush, using a little over 4 times its bulk of 
water, and salt to taste. (For the long cooking absolutely necessary 
with corn preparations, the double boiler is much the best thing to 
use.) It can be eaten in bowls with milk, or for dessert with hard 
sauce. When cold, it can be fried as directed for cornmeal mush. 

CRACKED WHEAT.— Pick over ^ pint cracked wheat, put it in 
a double boiler, add 1 teaspoon salt, and 8 cujds boiling water, and 
cook it 2 or 3 hours. It cooks best in a double boiler. Serve with 
sugar and cream. It can, if desired, be poured into cups or jelly- 
molds, wet with cold water, and so molded. 

FARINA. — Into 2 cu^js boiling water, j)ut | saltspoon salt, and 
3 tablespoons farina; let it actually boil in a sauce=i3an 20 minutes, or 
cook 1 hour in a double boiler. Serve with sugar and milk or cream. 

WHEATLET WITH DATES.— Into 4 cups boiling water put 1 
teaspoon salt and stir in 1 cup wheatlet; cook it in the double boiler 
30 minutes. Have 1 cup dates stoned and cut small, and stir them 
in just before serving. Serve with cream. 

GRANULA — To 1 cup granula add 1 teaspoon salt, and 1-| cups 
boiling water, and boil 10 to 15 minutes; this is better than to boil it 
1 minute in milk as is often recommended. It is a jjreparation of 
grain prepared by dry heat, and is cooked nearly enough when 
bought. 

WHEAT GERM — Use 1^ cups boiling water, ^ teaspoon salt, 
and ^ cup wheat germ, and boil 30 minutes in an uncovered sauce- 
pan, or 1 hour in a double boiler; it is doubtful if it is wholesome 
cooked in the short time directed on the packages. 

Imperial Granum can be prepared the same way. 

HULLED CORN. — Soak a quart of yellow corn over night; the 
next morning pour off the water and i3ut the corn in a kettle of hot 
water containing a cheese-cloth bag, holding a pint, or a little more, 
of clean wood ashes. Boil until the hulls begin to come off, then 
pour off the lye; rub the corn well in cool water to remove the 
hulls, then boil again in clear water until soft, changing the wat«v 



TOAST 289 

once or twice to take out the taste of the lye as much as possible. 
Hulled corn is eaten with milk like mush, and like mush it is 
fried when cold, 

HASTY PUDDING.— Into 2 cups cold milk, stir 2 cups corn- 
meal, 2 teaspoons flour, 1 teaspoon salt; gradually stir this into 4 cups 
boiling water, and boil 30 minutes, stirring it frequently. It can 
be fried when cold as directed for cornmeal mush. 



TOAST. 

Simple as the process of making it seems, perfect toast is very 
rare. Good toast should be crisp and golden clear through, not 
brown outside and clammy in the center. Use stale bread, cut 
even slices J inch thick, heat them gradually at first, so that the 
heat may penetrate to the center of the slice and evaporate the 
water before the outside is crusted over; dry it carefully and, lohen 
well dried, move it near the coals (which should be clear and red), 
and it will quickly turn a golden brown. 

Toast is often eaten which is cut in thick slices, browned outside, and left clam- 
my in the center. Such toast is less wholesome than untoasted bread, and is 
wholly unfit for invalids, although healthy stomachs may cope with it. Well made 
toast is very easy of digestion, and well suited for invalids, because starch, when 
heated to 401°, is turned to dextrin, and that is much more easily digested than the 
starch. The object should be to turn as much of the starch as possible to dextrin, 
and clear through the bread, not merely a little on the outside. A little caramel is 
also developed usually in toasting bread. 

Some people prefer toast soft inside and browned outside, because they say it 
is easier to eat, but if you will try it you will find good, dry toast easily breaks and 
crumbles apart, and is readily moistened by the saliva. For invalids always instead 
of leaving toast soft inside, it is better to toast the bread well, and then dip it in 
hot water for an instant to moisten it, but do not soak it. 

If possible, serve dry toast directly from the fire; if not, pile it on a plate, lay a 
napkin over it, and set it in the oven, or on the hearth to keep warm. Be careful 
not to burn the outside while toasting bread. For ordinary use (not for invalids) 
the thicker slices of bread, less perfectly toasted, can, of course, be eaten by those 
who prefer them. 

WATER TOAST. — Prepare a pan of boiling hot water, adding al- 
ways 1 teaspoon salt to the quart of water. Toast bread, dip in each 
slice quickly, moistening it merely, but do not let it soalc, as sloppy, 
sodden toast is not good. Butter each slice and pile them on a hot 
plate. Apple sauce, baked apples, poached eggs, and minced meats 
go with this kind of toast. 

MILK TOAST — For plain milk toast, toast the bread, and pour 
•) or 4 tablespoons of boiling salted milk or cream on each slice. 
The toast can be buttered or not, as loreferred, before pouring on the 

I'j 



290 SANDWICHES 

hot milk. Crackers can be split, toasted, and prepared in the same 
way. Or, scald the milk, add for each pint 1 tablespoon corn^starch 
or flour dissolved in a little cold water, 1 teaspoon butter, and ^ tea- 
spoon salt; prepare the toast, moisten it, dip each slice in the hot, 
thickened milk, put all in a dish, and pour the balance of the thick- 
ened milk over it. Serve hot. 

CREAM TOAST. — Put 2 cups milk into a sauce^pan and bring it 
to a boil; while it is heating, put 1 tablespoon each of butter and 
flour in another sauce-pan, stir them together gently while the but- 
ter is melting, and then let them bubble 2 or 3 minutes together; 
then add the hot milk, a little at a time, stirring it in well till it is 
smooth and free from lumps; let it simmer while preparing the toast. 
Toast the bread, soak it thoroughly in salted boiling milk (as the 
cream will be too thick to soften [it), put it in a dish, and pour the 
prepared cream over and between the slices. 

MERINQUED TOAST — Prepare a meringue by dissolving 1 tea- 
spoon butter in -^ cup boiling milk, and just before taking it from 
the fire, stir in the well-beaten white of 1 egg; pour this over fresh- 
ly4oasted bread, which has been dipped in slightly salted water; put 
it in the oven 5 minutes, and delicately brown the meringue. 

VERMICELLI TOAST — Pass the yolk of hard:=boiled eggs 
through a coarse strainer; it will fall out in broken threads, looking 
something like vermicelli ; scatter it over cream toast. 

TOASTED GRAHAM GEMS — Split the gems, toast nicely, 
and while they are toasting, heat some rich milk to the boiling point, 
add a little salt, butter, and thicken with flour moistened with cold 
milk, and pour over the toasted gems. Gems left one day may be 
thus utilized for the next day's breakfast. 

STRAWBERRY TOAST — Toast thick slices of bread, butter 
them, and pile them with alternate layers of strawberries, crushed 
and sweetened as for shortcake, with strawberries on top; serve with 
cream, at once and while hot. 



SANDWICHES. 

Bread for sandwiches should be one day old, and a brick-sbaped 
loaf is the best. Cut the crust from the end, then spread the end of 
the loaf evenly with softened butter, or compounds of butter, sea- 
soned meat, etc., if desired, then with a sharp knife cut the buttered 
slice from the loaf. In this way the bread is not broken, as it is apt 



SANDWICHES 291 

to be if very tender, wlien spread after slicing. Spread and cut in 
this way until the loaf is used. Place two of the spread slices to- 
gether, press firmly, and trim in any way liked. They may be cut 
in rounds or heart-shaped with biscuit cutters; the crust may be 
trimmed off and the sandwiches cut from corner to corner, making 
triangles, or for ordinary occasions they may be left un trimmed, 
as many persons prefer them with the crusts. 

For hearty, hungry children, nothing is better for luncheons, 
picnic refreshments, etc., than sandwiches. Spread evenly the end 
of a loaf of good home=made bread, a day old, then cut it off ^ inch 
thick, spread another slice with butter, place boiled ham, cold 
tongue, roast beef or chicken, on one slice, cover it with another, and 
press tightly together; roll each one in buttered pajDer, or all together 
in a clean napkin. To keep them moist until eaten, put them after 
wrapping, into a tin pail, and cover tightly. 

If the meat used for filling sandwiches is chopped fine it will be 
much more convenient to eat. In putting up sandwiches for picnics, 
etc., it will add to their appearance to tie them with ribbon in pack- 
ages; a different colored ribbon can be used effectively for each kind 
of sandwich 

Although it is a little more trouble to make them, sandwiches 
can be improved both in appearance and flavor by cutting thin slices 
of bread into small square, oval, or round pieces, and frying them in 
smoking hot fat to a light golden brown; then drain on blotting 
paper. These pieces can be made into anchovy, lobster, egg, salmon, 
chicken or other sandwiches, piled high on plates with bright greeii 
parsley around the base. Such sandwiches are admirably adapted 
for evening parties, and will be more appreciated than second and 
third rate sweets. 

Mustard or Anchovy Butter for sandwiches may bs prepared as fol- 
lows: For mustard butter, take soft butter the size of an egg, and 
2 tablespoons of good mustard, put them in a stone mortar and work 
them together with the pestle till perfectly mixed. For anchovy but- 
ter, take the same amount of butter and 1 teaspoon of anchovy paste, 
and work them together in the same way. Same i)^'^roi"tions for 
larger quantities. 

ABERDEEN SANDWICHES — Put in the chopping^bowl cold 
meat, either of veal, ham, beef or poultry, and chop it very fine; for 
1 teacup of chopped meat, add to it a piece of softened butter the 
size of an egg, a little pepper and salt, with 1 or 2 spoons of water to 
slightly moisten it, and 1 teacup of fine bread crumbs; chop and mix 
all to a paste. Take a bit of the mixture on the molding- board, and 



292 SANDWICHES 

with a knife wet in hot water, form it into a strip about 3 inches 
long and 2 wide. Trim off the edges, detach it from the board with 
a knife, and roll into an oblong shape. If it is too dry to roll 
without cracking, add a little more water; if too wet, add more bread 
crumbs. These are served with lettuce, or cresses. 

ANCHOVY AND EQG SANDWICHES.— Bone anchovies, steep 
them in milk for 2 hours and chop fine; also mince hard4)oiled eggs 
very fine; sprinkle the chopped egg on a slice of buttered bread, 
cover with the anchovy, add pepi^er and a layer of mustard and cress, 
and lay on the other slice of buttered bread. 

BAKED SANDWICHES.— Sprinkle salt and pepper on thin 
slices of cold meat, put them between thin slices of bread, form 
them into a pile 5 or 6 inches high, fasten them together with a 
skewer, and brown them until the bread is crisp, in a hot oven, first 
basting them with melted butter. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES — Mix together I lb. of grated cheese, 
and ^ teaspoon each of pepper, salt and mustard, add 1 tablespoon 
each of vinegar and melted butter, make it to a paste, and spread it 
thin on the buttered bread. 

DATE SANDWICHES. — Seed choice dates, press flat, and 
spread between thin slices of buttered bread. 

EGG SANDWICHES.— (1) Put between buttered slices of bread 
moderately thin slices of hard-boiled eggs, seasoning them with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg. (2) Chop the whites of hard-boiled eggs very 
fine; mash the yolks, and mix with melted butter, salt and pepper. 
If not smooth enough, add thick cream. Spread the paste on the 
bread. 

FISH SANDWICHES.— Use any kind of cooked fish, chop it 
fine, make it into a soft paste with butter, and season it well. 

GINGER SANDWICHES — Use the preserved ginger which 
comes in small jars; cut very thin, and put between slices of buttered 
bread. Cover with a damp napkin until ready to serve. 

HAM SANDWICHES — Boil the ham the day before, slice it as 
thin as possible, and lay it between the thin, buttered slices of bread. 
Spread on a little mustard, or not, as preferred. Chopped ham 
sandwiches can be made by chopping the ham as fine as grated 
cheese, and making it to a paste with malted butter, or butter and 
cream, or beaten egg, as preferred, with mixed mustard, pepper, and 
a little finely chopped pickle. Then spread the paste on the bread. 



SANDWICHES 298 

HONOVER SANDWICHES.— To tlie well-beaten yolks of 2 
eggs, add ^ lb. best butter, 3 tablespoons mixed mustard, a little 
pepper and salt; beat all together very smoothly, and set on ice_ 
Spread it on thin slices of bread, and put between the slices very 
finely chopped tongue and ham, to which a little chicken or roast 
beef is added. This makes a delicious sandwich. Thin slices of 
pressed beef may also be used. 

LABETTE SANDWICHES — Spread Devonshire cream on thin 
buttered slices of l)rowii bread; then spread on apricot jam, being- 
careful that there are no lumps in it, then lay on another slice of 
buttered bread, and press together. 

LETTUCE SANDWICHES — Put crisp lettuce leaves, between 
thin slices of buttered bread; serve as soon as possible after prepar- 
ing. Add a mayonnaise dressing if preferred. 

Various sandioicJies can be thus made by using instead of the 
lettuce, the plumed tops of young white celery; or nastni'tium 
leaves; or young dandelion leaves; or i^eppergrass; or water-cress; 
and so on. 

LOBSTER SANDWICHES.— Pound together in a mortar until 
quite smooth ^ lb. lobster meat, the yolks of 2 hard=boiled eggs, 2 oz. 
butter, 5 capers, pepper, salt, and cayenne to taste. Spread thinly 
on slices of bread and butter, si3rinkle with a very little chopped 
mustard and cress, if liked, cover with another slice of bread and 
butter, cut neatly, and serve. 

NUT SANDWICHES.— Grate English walnuts or pecans, mix 
with salt and a little cream or milk, and spread it on thin slices of 
buttered brown bread. 

Almonds or peanuts may be used in the same way. 

PEANUT SANDWICHES.— Kemove the shells and brown skins, 
roll the peanuts moderately fine, but not to powder, pour on any 
good salad dressing, and spread between slices of bread. Make 
almond or walnut sandwiches the same way. 

SALMON SANDWICHES.— Drain all the oil from canned 
salmon, remove all skin and bone, reduce it to, a jjaste; season, spread 
some on one slice of buttered bread, squeeze lemon juice over it, and 
lay on the other buttered slice of bread. 

SARDINE SANDWICHES.— (1) Drain the sardines from the 
oil, put them in hot water a few minutes which will take out the 
grease, drain them, dry in a cloth, and pound to a paste; season with 



294 SANDWICHES 

salt and pepper, add a little very finely chopped lettuce, and spread 
it on the bread. (2) Chop the fish fine, add a few drops of lemon 
juice, and cover the buttered bread with it. 

TOMATO SANDWICHES.— (1) Spread a French dressing over 
the buttered slices of bread, and put slices of tomatoes between them. 
(2) Put potted beef on the lower buttered slice, lay on thin slices 
of tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and lay on the top slice, 

VARIOUS SANDWICHES A little ingenuity will invent an 

almost endless variety of new and attractive sandwiches. We sug- 
gest a few more. (1) Prawns or shrimps may be used instead of 
lobsters. (2) Fresh caviare spread on bread and butter, with a 
squeeze of lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and if liked, a little minced 
salad, is excellent, (8) Slices of cucumber, dressed with oil and 
vinegar, make a delicious sandwich. (4) Use yolks of eggs 
pounded with butter and Parmesan cheese. (5) Make pate de foie 
gras sandwiches, with or without water=cress, (6) Make salmon or 
shrimp sandwiches with mayonnaise sauce and minced salad. (7) 
Put kippered salmon in thin shreds between slices of hroimi bread 
and butter. (8) Vary any sandwich by using mayonnaise, bechamel 
or other sauoe. 



PASTRY. 



Tr% OTWITHSTANDING the frequent denunciations of pastry 
I \^y for its unliealthf ulness, people will eat pie, and a thorough 

JLV knowledge of pastry^making is indispensable to the econom- 
ical housewife. To succeed in this, certain rules must be 
remembered and implicitly carried out. The excellence of puff paste 
depends upon the quality of the materials used, the lightness of 
hand and dexterity of the operator, and the coldness of the materials. 
The hands should be washed very clean, and then dipped into very 
hot and then into cold water. The mixing=bowl should also be filled 
with hot, and then with cold water, which makes it smooth and pre- 
vents the butter from sticking. The slab or board for working upon 
should be smooth, clean and dry. A marble slab is better than a 
board because it keeps the pastry cooler, but few can command this, 
and a board is more frequently used. 

The Flour. — The flour used should be of a fine quality, and should 
be thoroughly sifted, dried and chilled. For making paste a starchy 
flour is better than one rich in gluten, and that is what is meant by 
pastry flour. Although eggs are commonly used in paste, they are 
really not necessary, and a good paste can be made without them. 
The butter should be of good quality and pliable, or it will not mix 
properly with the pastry. 
Work it in clear, cold 
water, to free it from salt 
and buttermilk, and the 
pastry will then be more 
delicate; then keep it cold 
until used. 

Method of Making Paste. 
— The method of making 
paste is as follows: For 
the best paste use 1 lb. of 
butter to 1 lb. of flour (if 
measured use 2 pints flour 
to 1 pint butter). Take 1 
lb. of the washed butter, flatten it out, press it. on all sides to remove 
the moisture, keep out about 2 or 3 oz. and put the balance in a 
floured cloth on ice till needed. Now put the 1 lb. of sifted and 

296 




FIG. 1. PASTE FOLDED OVEB THE BUTTER. 



296 



PASTRY 



chilled flour into the mixing^bowl, keeping out about 2 oz. for 
sprinkling the board with, x^ut in the 3 oz. of butter and 1 small tea- 
spoon of salt, and the eggs if they are used, and with the tips of the 
fingers work them into the flour. Many chop these ingredients to- 
gether to avoid heating them with the fingers. Add a little ice cold 
water occasionally, and keep mixing until a perfectly smooth paste is 
formed, A cup of water, more or less, will be needed. When the 
paste is of the right consistency, and forms a smooth ball, dust the 
board lightly with flour, and remove the paste on to it, and pound it 
lightly with the rolling-pin to toughen it. Then roll it out about \ 
inch thick, always using a well-floured rolling=pin, and rolling from 
you. Then take the cold butter and roll it out in the same way, only 
smaller, and lay it upon the paste, and fold the ends of the paste over 
the butter as shown in Fig. 1. on p. 295. (The butter is sometimes 
cut into 4 pieces and only 1 piece worked in at a time, but the meth- 
od would be the same.) Then turn it bottom up on the board, and 
roll it out carefully, using a light, quick stroke, and being careful 
not to break the paste, as the aim should be to keep all the air pos- 
sible inside, to assist in making it 
rise. If by accident the dough 
breaks, lay on a piece of plain 
dough (a little plain dough may 
be kept out for this purpose), dust 
on flour, and go on with the roll- 
ing. Roll it out into a sheet about 
\ inch thick, and fold \ of it over 
onto the balance, and then the 





Fig. 2. eolled paste folded 



Fig. 3. PASTE AFTEB MAKING A "TURN.' 



other side over onto that, making 3 layers about 8 times as long as 
it is wide, as shown in Fig. 2; then turn it, and fold it lengthwise 
into 3 thicknesses as shown in Fig. 3, when it will be ready for roll- 
ing out again. This is known as the "first turn." 



PASTKY 297 

In lifting the paste at any time let it roll up on the roller, then 
lift it gently, dust a little flour on the board, and gently unroll the 
paste the way you want it to lie, having the side which was next the 
roller come next the board. The process just described as the "first 
turn" should be repeated 3 or 4 times for common pies, and 6 or 7 
times for the best pastry, but should be repeated until no streaks of 
butter can be seen. The more layers there are the more "flaky" it 
will be. To keep the butter evenly distributed so that the paste will 
rise evenly, it is folded in an opijosite direction each time, and after 
each "turn" it is laid with the top of the paste on the board, thus 
turning it over. It is customary in warm weather (it is a good plan 
at any time) to put it on ice for 5 or 10 minutes between each "turn." 
This may be done by putting it in a long, floured pan, putting it on 
ice, and then set another pan filled with ice on top of it, thus having 
ice both above and below. The top tin should not be heavy with ice, 
as only a little ice is needed. Tins are best, because dishes would not 
conduct heat readily enough to cool the paste quickly. After making 
the last "turn," roll the paste out about ^ inch thick, and cut it in 
shape for pies, patties, etc. Some cooks think that the shortest route 
from the flour barrel to the bake oven is the best for pastry, and 
others prefer to set the paste aside in a cold place and bake next day. 
Skillful cooks obtain good results either way. From first to last 
the paste should be kept as cold as possible. 

If not ready to bake at once when made up, keep the i^aste in 
the ice-chest until wanted. We knew of one lady who had a long, 
slim glass bottle which she filled with ice*water and used for a roll- 
ing-pin. Pastry should be rolled lightly, the rolling-pin often lifted 
and but little pressed upon, so as not to force out the air. 

The point to aim at in making pufp paste is to have as many al- 
ternate layers of butter and dough as possible, and to have each layer 
so light and thin that in baking it will rise separately. The paste 
will be difficult to manage, and a failure, probably, if it is either too 
dry and stiff or soft and stick5^ If the flour used is the least damp, 
the paste made from it may be heavy. The less flour used in rolling 
the paste the better, as if an excess of flour is used the flakes will be 
pale, thick and tough, if not absolutely flat and heavy, and the bak- 
ing will be much slower. Using coarse and heavy flour may produce 
a similar result, and so may slow and heavy handling, a warm or ir- 
regular temperature when working, or faulty baking. 

The Butter. — If the butter is not right, rapid handling, partial 
freezing, an extra sprinkle of flour and a little cream of tartar may 
keep the flakes separated until the oven is reached and the baking 



298 PASTRY 

begins; it will bake sharp and crisp with a quick heat, but the 
butter will fry out and cover the flakes of paste and they will be 
found greasy to the touch when removed from the oven. • Do not 
suppose that if the butter and paste are not in the best condition 
possible the amount of the butter can be reduced in the finishing 
process of rolling together; there will be fewer layers of paste, the 
quality inferior and the quantity less. 

For some dishes a rich crust is neither so digestible nor so 
suitable as a substantial light one, and a light, quick, cool hand will 
influence the lightness of the pastry as well as the quantity of the 
butter used 

Baking Tins. — For baking, tin plates should always be used, as 
the under crust will be apt to not bake well in anything earthen; the 
crust will readily separate from the pan when done. It should then 
be taken off the plate at once, or the under crust may get " soggy." 
Grease pie4ins well before laying on the crust; for some kinds of 
toastry they are wet with water instead of being greased. 

The Oven. — The heat of the oven is important. If too hot, the 
top will become scorched before the pastry is risen; if too cold, it 
will melt, spread, and the paste become heavy and sodden. It is 
best, therefore, to keep the pastry out until the oven is right. Exper- 
ience will guide in this, but a good plan is to try the heat of the 
oven first with a small piece of paste; the heat should be strong 
enough to cause the cold air in the paste to expand, and so make it 
rise, and then quickly set it in the form given by this expansion of 
the air. The heat should be strong underneath at first, to make the 
paste rise well before browning on top; then turn the heat from 
below, or to prevent bu.rning, put a grate or pan under the baking- 
tin, and quicken the heat on top. 

The Two Crusts. — In making pies with an upper crust always 
make small holes in it to allow for the escape of steam, or that will 
burst the crust. These holes may be made in any fanciful shape de- 
sired An excellent plan is to use a rich paste for the top crust, and 
a plainer one, with much less shortening, for the under one. Have 
the under crust a little the thicker. If there is no uj^per crust, have a 
heavy edge on the pie. Mixing the white flour with 3 to ^ its 
bulk of cornmeal is said to make pie crust lighter and more digest- 
ible. 

A fine brown color will be given to the upper crust of pies if, 
just before putting them in the oven, they are brushed over with 
milk. 



PASTKY 299 

To Prevent Juice from Running out. — To prevent the juices of fruit 
pies from running over, which is so annoying to cooks, various plans 
have been employed. (1) Make a small tube of writing paper 
about ^ inch in diameter, and let it set through the upper and rest 
on the lower crust; or a short piece of macaroni set on end makes 
a good tube. The juice will bubble up in this instead of running 
out. (2) In all fruit fillings stir the flour into the fruit, so that all 
the fruit may be covered, instead of sx)rinkling it on top. Also 
avoid having too much fruit in the 5)ie, and add no water, as the 
fruits make their own juices. (3) Have a pie tin deep enough to 
allow a wall of crust deep enough to hold in the juice. (4) Fasten 
the upjper crust securely by turning the edge of it under the under 
crust, first wetting the latter with a little beaten white of egg 
or water. Sometimes the white of egg is used and the two firmly 
pressed together without turning the upjper under the lower crust. 

All the small juicy fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, blueber- 
ries and blackberries, can be made to retain their juices in the 
crust by mixing with the sugar used for sweetening them a heap- 
ing tablespoon of either flour, corn=starch, arrowroot or cracker dust. 
These act simply by absorbing the surplus juice, and so keep it from 
running out. The mixture should be well shaken down through 
the berries before the top crust is. put on; as the sugar draws out 
the juice, it is better not to sprinkle it on the fruit until that is put 
in the crust. The under crust in these pies will be raw and clammy, 
unless there is a good heat at the bottom of the oven. If the under 
crust in fruit and custard pies is rubbed over, just before filling the 
pies, with a mixture of egg, well beaten, it will prevent the juice from 
soaking into it. The white alone will do if the pie is very delicate in 
color. A tablespoon of powdered sugar added to the flour makes the 
paste into a nice, short crust, for fruit pies. If in fruit pies the sugar 
is not added until after they are baked, and then the crust is lifted 
up and it is put in, less sugar will be needed. ( See what we say 
about "Using Sugar," in our chapter on "Cooked Fruit.") 

The Pbinciples Involved. — The principles involved in this mode of baking 
flour are as follows: In making paste or pie crust, the paste of flour and water is 
rolled out into very thin paper=like layers, with fat between. In folding and rolling 
it out, much cold air is imprisoned and distributed through the mass. When baked, 
this air is heated and so expands, and, being confined, it "lifts" the dough, or 
makes it rise and become light. This action is purely mechanical, without pro- 
ducing any chemical change like that worked by yeast. It is obvious that (he 
colder this imprisoned air is when the mass is ready to bake, the more it will 
be contracted, and, therefore, when heated, the more it will expand and lift the 
dough; hence the repeated injunctions to keep the mass as cold as jiossible. 

Eggs, when used, act in two ways — they increase the tenacity of (he dough so 
that it better retains the air, and when beaten up they carry a good deal of air into 
the dough. As soon as (he cold air expands, the mass should stiffen, before it has 
time to fall, hence the importance of having the heat of the ovea right. 



300 PASTKY 

It will be seen that the lightness of the pastry will depend on the amount and 
coldness of the air it contains before it is put in the oven, and the extent of the 
expansion of the air afterwards; therefore, other things being equal, the best 
pastry will be that which contains the greatest quantity of the coldest air before it 
is baked. Cooks with a hot hand will do well to mix the paste with a knife (a 
steel chopping=knife with a wooden handle is about the best thing) as the warmth 
of the hand will heat the paste in working it. 

The "flakiness" of the paste will depend on the number of layers of butter 
and paste it contains, but its rising depends on its air. We knew an experiment 
in maiing some pastry in which the lady pressed it hard with her thumb in 
certain spots. When baked, it was light everywhere except where her thumb had 
pressed, and there it was soggy and heavy. The pressure of her thumb had forced 
out the air, so that in those places there was nothing to expand and "lift" the 
paste. This will show the importance of the lightness and deftness of touch in 
making paste, which we have elsewhere insisted on. 

Pastry, though generally liked, is not easily digested, and is not suited to deli- 
cate stomachs, although the strong may eat it. Flaky paste, although easily 
broken in pieces, is not easily pulverized or ground iiito a pulpy mass by the 
teeth, so that comparatively large=sized flakes are commonly swallowed, besides 
which the starchy matter, being enveloped in fat, is not readily reached by the 
saliva, and thus the first step in the conversion of fiour into sugar is prevented, 
while for the same reason it is not readily attacked by the gastric juices in the 
stomach. From these causes proceed the evil results so often experienced from 
eating pastry. When eaten, it should be very thoroughly and patiently masticated. 

Using Cornmeal. — Cornmeal mixed with flour, using }^ cornmeal to % Hour or 
a little more, makes puddings or pastry more digestible, because it makes them 
less cohesive — that is, when it is used the products fall more readily into minute 
particles so that the saliva can act on the starch, and the gastric juice on the 
albumenoids, much more readily. Cornmeal, lacking gluten, breaks up the sticki- 
ness of gluten flour as we elsewhere explain. 

Meringue (pronounced me -rang' ) for pies, puddings or cake, is a 
frosting spread on top of them. It is made by beating the white of 
1 egg and 1 tablespoon of powdered white sugar to a froth, and 
flavoring it if desired. After spreading it on, it must always be put 
in the oven to brown and harden; let a pudding cool slightly before 
spreading it on, or else it will liquify. 

Doree, or gilding, applied to patties, etc., is an egg beaten up and 
brushed over the top. It gives them a beautiful golden shade. 

PASTE, OK PIE CRUST. 

For the best pufip paste the uniform rule is equal quantities, by 
weight, of butter and flour. A good paste is made with £ lb. butter 
to 1 lb. flour. For home use, as low as | lb. butter to 1 lb. flour is 
sometimes used. 

For the best paste, good butter is the thing to use; the next best 
thing, butter and lard mixed. For meat pies clarified drippings 
makes a good crust. A light biscuit crust answers well for dump- 
lings, and may also be used for meat pies. A paste made with lard 
alone, will be tender, but not flaky. 

If any baking powder is used with paste at any time add that to 
the flour first of all. When baking powder is used in pastry, speedy 



PASTRY 301 

work is needed or the effervescence will be over before the work is 
completed, the gas will escape, and the paste will fall. For delicate 
puffspaste or pie crust do not use baking powder. 

No. I. PUFF PASTE — Use 2 cups flour, 1 solid cup butter, 
and 1 level teaspoon salt. Mix about ^ of the butter in the flour, 
then roll out and work in the balance as directed for making pastes, 
giving it 4 to 6 " turns." This makes a rich paste suitable for the 
upper crust of pies, using a plainer one for the under crust. 

No. 2. LIGHT PASTE — Use 2 cups flour, 1 solid cup butter, 
1 level teaspoon salt, 1 egg (2 are sometimes used). Mix, roll out, 
and finish as directed above for making paste, giving it at least 4 
" turns " — 6 is better. It makes a good paste for fruit tarts. 

No. 3. PUFF PASTE. — Use 1 teacup each of butter and lard, 4 
cups sifted flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 white 
of egg, beaten. Sift the baking powder and salt into the flour; then 
rub in the lard till it forms a fine, smooth paste. Add enough ice 
water, containing the beaten white of egg, to make a stiff dough — 
say ^ cup; roll out thin, spread on ^ of the butter, and make 1 
"turn" as previously explained for pastry; repeat with another ^ of 
the butter, and so on till all is used. Then set on ice till cold — say 

1 or 2 hours — before using it. An excellent paste. 

No. 4. FRENCH PASTE — Use 4 cups flour, 1 cup powdered 
sugar, 1 level teaspoon salt, 3 whole eggs. Mix thoroughly with the 
flngers to a smooth paste; if too dry to mold, add the yolk of another 
egg; after it is molded, roll out and cut. This paste is more diges- 
tible than shortened pie crust. 

No. 5. PIE CRUST — Use 1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon lard, |- 
teaspoon baking powder, ^ teaspoon salt. Sift the baking powder 
and salt together, chop the lard into the flour, and add just enough 
cold water to moisten the flour. This quantity will make 1 pie with 

2 crusts. 

No. 6. PIE CRUST — Mix equal amounts of white and graham 
flours; stir in cold sweet cream with a sjDOon, lightly and rapidly, in 
the proportion of 1 cup of cream to 3 cups flour; with the fingers 
gather the dough together, without kneading it, and set it in a very 
cool place ^ hour before rolling out. It can be made still lighter by 
adding 2 teaspoons baking powder for each 3 cups flour, but in that 
case roll out and bake at once. 



302 PIES 

PIES. 

Time to Bake. — Pies should bake, as a rule, in | to f hour. They 
should slip on the tin when done. Crust alone should brown in 
about \ hour. 

APPLE PIE. — Line a large pie^plate with a good crust, fill it 
well with sliced apples; take a small cup of sugar and mix well with 
it 1 tablespoon of floiir, a little nutmeg, half a teaspoon of cinnamon, 
and sprinkle over the pie; put on the top crust; wet the edges (^f 
the under crust, pinch the top one upon it closely, cut an opening 
in the middle of the top crust, and bake in a good oven about an 
hour; serve the day of baking. 

POT APPLE PIE — Put a quart of water in a kettle with 2 cups 
of sugar, a saltspoon of salt and 6 tart apples, pared, quartered and 
cored; let them cook in the syrup until they look like preserves, then 
make a baking-powder crust, without shortening, cut it in rounds 
with a biscuit^cutter, put it in the kettle, add a jpiece of butter the 
size of an egg, and more water if the syrup is much reduced; cover, 
and cook 20 minutes. Turn into a deep dish to serve. 

DRIED APPLE PIE.— The dried apples should be soaked over 
night, then slowly stewed, in just water enough to cover them, for 2 or 
3 hours, especially those dried in the old-fashioned way, and which are 
preferred by many cooks to those that are bleached. When soft, stir 
to a mash with a spoon, or work the apple through a coarse colander; 
season to taste with sugar and spices, and bake in two crusts. A few 
dried raspberries, or a little raspberry jam is a great improvement in 
dried apple pies. 

A good way to treat dried apples is to soak them over nighb, tnen cover with 
boiling water, and stew soft. A little sour cider or lemon juice may be added if 
they are not tart enough, and a fine flavor will be imparted by adding a little 
orange peel when they are about half stewed; then add sugar and nutmeg to 
season, and strain through a colander. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE.— Take 2 cups sweet milk, 2 cups apple 
sauce, 3 eggs; flavor and sweeten, and bake with an under crust only. 
This wiU make 2 small or 1 large pie. 

Apple Custard No. 2.— Take | cup melted butter, 2 cups sugar, 3 
cups stewed apples, 4 eggs beaten separately. Bake in pie=plates 
in bottom crusts only. 

APPLE PIE A LA MODE.— Take a good apple pie, warm it, 
and spread ice cream over the top 1 inch thick, and serve at once. 



PIES 303 

BANANA PIE. — Slice the bananas thinly, put over them the 
grated peel and juice of a lemon, and let them lie in the acid for an 
hour before using; then sweeten to taste, and bake in two crusts. 

CARROT PIE.— To 1 lb. of carrots, boiled and mashed through 
a colander, add 2 eggs, and rich milk or cream to make quite thin; 
flavor to taste with sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg; put it into 2 pie- 
plates lined with rich paste, and bake in a quick oven. 

CHERRY PIE. — Pit the cherries and be careful to reject all that 
are wormy; place them on a nice under crust, sweeten to taste and 
mix a teaspoon of corn=starch with the sugar, or a tablespoon if the 
cherries are large and juicy. Bake in two crusts, or as a tart with 
strips of paste twisted and placed over it in diamond shape. Eat 
cold, with sugar sifted over the top. 

DRIED CHERRY PIE.— Use a pie-'plate that will hold 1 pint, 
line with rich paste; take 1 teacup of sugar and put | of it on the 
under crust, roll 2 soda crackers fine, put ^ on the sugar, and 1 tea- 
cup of cherries strewn evenly on the cracker; now add a piece of 
butter half the size of an egg, and cover with the remainder of the 
sugar and cracker; when the top crust is ready to put on, add 1 tea- 
cup of cold water, and bake ^ hour in a moderate oven. 

GROUND CHERRY PIE.— Line a pie-plate with a nice pie crust, 
and then put in a layer of ground cherries and 1 cup of sugar. Cover 
with a nice crust and bake. 

The ground cherry {Physatis viscosa) belongs to the order Solanacce — the order 
which gives us the tomato and potato. 

CHOCOLATE PIE — Take 2 cups milk, yolks of 2 eggs, | of a 
cup of sugar, 2 tablespoons of corn-starch, and 2 tablespoons of 
grated chocolate. Heat the milk, sugar and chocolate together; 
when hot, add the corn-starch, mixed in a little of the cold milk, then 
add the beaten yolks; let all come to a boil; line a pie-tin with good 
pie crust, bake, and then pour in the chocolate cream; beat the 
whites of the eggs to a stifP froth with 2 tablespoons of white sugar; 
pour it over the pie, and set it in the oven to brown. 

GREEN COCOANUT PIE — Open the eyes of a cocoanut with a 
gimlet, and pour out the milk into a cup; then break the shell, take 
out the meat, and grate it fine; take the same weights of sugar and 
the grated nut, and stir together; beat 4 eggs, the whites and yolks 
separately, to a stiff foam; mix 1 cup of cream, and the milk of the 
cocoanut with the sugar and nut; then add the eggs. Line deep pie 
tins with a nice cruSt> fill them with the cu^ard, and bake carefully 
^ hour. 



304 



PIES 




OOOOANUT PALM. 



DRIED COCOANUT PIE.— Put a cup of cocoanut to soak in 
sweet milk as early in the morning as possible; take a teacup of the 
cocoanut and put it into a coffeecup, and fill up with milk. When 
ready to bake take 2 teaspoons of flour, mix with milk, and stir until 
it thickens; add butter the size of a walnut, while warm; when cold, 
add a little salt, 2 eggs (saving out the white 
of one for the top), sweeten to taste, add the 
cocoanut, beating well, fill the crust and bake 
When done, have the extra white beaten 
with sugar and ready to spread over the top; 
return to the oven and brown lightly. 

Cocoanut is the frnit of a species of palm. It 
now grows in nearly all tropical regions. The num- 
ber of different ways in wliich it is made useful to the 
inhabitants in the region in which it grows is surpris- 
ing. Each tree yields 80 to 100 nuts annually. The 
oil expressed from the kernel is good, and might be 
used as food, but it quickly becomes rancid. The nut 
should be eaten moderately only, as it is rather diffi- 
cult of digestion alone, but in connection with other 
food, aids their digestion. It is more of a heat=giver 
than of a flesh'former. 

CORN=STARCH PIE — Scald 1 pint of milk and stir in it 3 
tablespoons . of sugar and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; wet 2 table- 
spoons of corn^starch with a little cold milk, and stir it in the milk, 
sugar, and eggs. Line a pie-plate with paste, bake, and fill it with 
the cream. Beat 2 tablespoons of sugar with the whites of the eggs, 
spread over the top of the pie, and set in the oven to brown. This 
may be served with or without cream, and will be found very nice. 

CREAM PIE. — Take 2 cups thick cream, and 1 cup milk. Put 
the cream and milk in a tin xDail, and set in a kettle of boiling water. 
If there is danger that the cream may curdle, put into it as much 
soda as will lie on the point of a pen=knife. When the cream is hot, 
beat the whites of 2 eggs, a tablespoon of corn^starch, and 2 heaping 
tablespoons of sugar all together, and add to the cream. When it 
thickens, let cool a little, and add a teaspoon of extract of vanilla. 
Pour into a deep crust already baked. Cover with a meringue and 
brown in the oven. 

Cream Pie No. 2.-^Bake a crust in a largo pie=pan, lift it out on a 
plate; for filling, take 1 pint of very rich milk; boil | of it; with the 
remaining ^ stir 2 tablespoons of corn-starch; add to the boiling 
milk, stirring all the time; then add | teacup of sugar, then the yolks 
-of 2 eggs, well beaten and thinned with a little milk; remove from 
•ihe fire, flavor with vanilla, and pour into the crust; whip Hke wiiite», 



PIES 305 

add ^ teacup sugar, frost the pie, and place in the oven to brown 
slightly. Serve cold. 

Cream Pie No. 3. — Use 1 egg, 1 cup sugar with butter size of an 
egg well rubbed into it, ^ cup milk, in which dissolve ^ teaspoon 
soda, 1| cups flour, and sift well through it 1 teaspoon cream tartar 
and a little salt; bake in 3 tins. 

Cream Filling. — Take 1 egg, ^ cup sugar, ^ cup flour; wet the flour 
with a little milk, then stir it into 1 cup boiling milk, then add the 
egg and sugar, and a little salt; stir till thick and smooth. This is 
cheap, but delicious. 

DATE PIE. — Prepare the dates as 

directed in the introduction to "Cake" 

(which see). Spread the lower crust on 

the pan, put in the prepared dates, add a 

little cold water, sprinkle with flour, dot 

with butter, put on the upper crust and 

bake. 

The Date is the fruit of a palm tree. It 
bears bunches, weighing perhaps 25 lbs. with 200 
dates. It grows extensively in Persia and 
throughout Asia and Africa. More than half its 
weight is sugar. It is a gentle laxative, and is in 
many cases to be preferred to figs. Dates can be date palm. 

used in pies, puddings, bread and sauce, and they 

are worthy of a more extensive use, although many people do not understand how 
to handle them. Dates may be used to advantage in place of citron in many kinds 
of cookery. 

GREEN CURRANT PIE.— Currants fully grown, and just before 
turning red, make very nice pies; mix a little flour or corn=starch 
with the sugar used for seasoning, and bake with an upper crust. 
Green gooseberry pies are made in the same manner, first picking off 
the stems and blossom ends. 

CUSTARD PIE — Take 2 teacups milk, 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons 
light brown sugar, 1 heaping teaspoon flour, a pinch of salt. Heat 
the milk, but do not let it boil. Beat eggs, sugar, flour and salt 
together, and add the milk. Line a deep plate with plain crust, pour 
in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until there is no milk in 
the center. Do not let it boil, as that causes it to whey. When 
done, grate nutmeg on top. 

Custard Pie No. 2 — -The proper proportions for a rich custard pie 
are 4 well-beaten eggs, 4 tablespoons of white sugar, and 1 quart of 
milk, or milk aTul cream mixed. This makes the filling for a deep 
pie=plate with a built=up edge of crust. 

20 




306 PIES 

Frosted Custard Pie.— Use 1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs and 
white of 1, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt. When baked, put 
on the frosting made of the 2 remaining whites of the eggs, beaten 
stiff, and 2 spoonfuls powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, and any 
flavoring you choose; set it back in the oven and brown. 

ELDERBERRY PIE Take | elderberries and ^ rhubarb, with 

sugar sufficient to sweeten, and bake with 2 crusts. This makes an 
excellent pie which cannot be distinguished from one made of rasp- 
berries, and is much cheaper. This proportion of elderberries and 
rhubarb makes a nice jam. 

FRIED PIES.— Roll out a good biscuit dough, about 7 or 8 
inches in diameter, but a spoonful of any good sauce near the center, 
fold the dough over it, press the edges together, and fry like dough- 
nuts in smoking hot fat. 

FRUIT PIES, OR TARTS — Fruit pies of all kinds may be made 
with an under crust only. Have the fruit stewed, sweetened and 
cold. Fill the crust with the fruit, place a few bits of b.utter over 
the fruit, and bake. When the pie is cool, beat the white of 1 egg 
and 1 tablespoon of fine sugar to a froth, spread over the pie, and 
brown in the oven. If a thicker meringue is liked, make with whites 
of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoons of sugar. If the fruit is very juicy a lit- 
tle pulverized cracker can be sprinkled over the pie before baking. 
Pies made in this way with one crust are often called " tarts." 
Fruit pies can also be made by putting the fruit in a pudding 
dish, sweeten and dust over the fruit a little corn^starch, flour, or 
cracker 'dust; put bits of butter over the fruit, and any spices liked; 
cover with a crust a Itttle thicker than when there is an under crust. 
Bake slowly. In this way there is no danger of losing the juice of 
the pie. 

GOOSEBERRY PIE. — Take ripe gooseberries, or green ones 
when fully grown, pick the stems and blow ends from them and place 
on the under crust. Mix a tablespoon of cornstarch in a small cup 
of sugar for the sweetening. Bake with 2 crusts. 

QRAPE PIE. — Take 1 coffee-cup of grapes, 1 tea^cup of sugar, 1 
egg, a pinch of salt, a dessertspoon of flour, and a teaspoon of butter. 
This makes 1 pie. Bake in 2 crusts. 

HICKORY=NUT PIE — Use 1^ pints milk, 4 teaspoons sugar, 2 
eggs, and 1 cup chopped hickory=nut meats; bake with an under 
crust only. 



PIES 307 

HUCKLEBERRY PIE — Fill a pie tin, lined with paste, with the 
berries, and add sugar to sweeten — about f cup. A pleasant tartness, 
which will improve the flavor, may be imparted by adding a little 
vinegar or lemon juice, or by mixing in some currants. Cover with 
a top crust and bake. 

JELLY PIE. — Take 1 cup jelly, 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, ^ cup but- 
ter. Cream the butter and sugar, beat the yolks until light and stir 
them in, then add the beaten whites and last the jelly. A small 
piece of this served on the same plate with apple or peach pie is 
nice. 

LEMON PIE. — Line a pie plate with a good crust and bake. 
For the filling take 1 cup sugar, grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 
yolks of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons corn^starch (a little heaping); stir 
sugar and yolks together, add the lemon juice, then add the corn= 
starch and stir well together; add 1| cups boiling water, put on stove 
and cook carefully until thick, ,and then pour into the baked crust. 
For the meringue beat the 3 whites of eggs stiff, add 2 tablespoons 
sugar, put over top and brown delicately in oven. 

LEMON PIE WITH UPPER CRUST.— Grate the yellow part of 
2 lemons into a dish, peel off the white and throw away; then cut up 
the lemons with the grated yellow, add 5 eggs, if they are plenty, if 
not, 4 will do; add 2 cups of sugar, a little salt, and 2 tablespoons of 
water. Line your pie=tins with a flaky crust, and divide the filling 
for 2 pies; put on an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven, and you 
will find it a delicious dessert. 

MINCE PIES. — These generally come on Thanksgiving day for 
the season; they are better when a few days old. It is better to make 
the mince-meat a week before Thanksgiving, and the pies in time to 
stand at least 3 days. Boil 6 lbs. lean beef till tender, let it stand 
over night and then chop fine; chop 1 lb. beef suet, also 5 lbs. apples, 
and 2 lbs. seeded raisins; slice thin -I lb. citron, and mix these ingre- 
dients, with 2 tablespoons cinnamon, and 1 tablespoon grated nut- 
meg. 

Hints — We may ofifer a few hints about mince pies. Dried apples, soaked in 
■water a few hours, or over night, or Irish potatoes soaked in the same way in 
vinegar, make a very fair substitute for fresh apples in mince pies. Fresh apples 
can be washed, wiped dry, and chopped fine without peeling, and some labor saved 
thereby. Dried cherries and other fruit, prepared with sugar, can be soaked 10 or 
12 hours in a very little water, and then both water and fruit used instead of rai- 
sins. They will bo much cheaper and will answer very well. EcoQomioal house- 
wives will often find hints like these very serviceable. 



308 PIES 

Canned Mince Meat, — If mince meat is canned hot, in the same 
manner as hnit, j)ut in glass jars; sealed tight, and kept in a cool, 
dark place, it will keep for months. A quart jar full will hold 
enough for 2 pies, and in this way mince pies can be had the year 
round, as well as in winter, 

MINCE MEAT. 

3 bowls of meat, chopped. 1 bowl molasses. 
2 bowls cider. 2 bowls raisins. 

4 bowls sugar (use 5 if liked 1 tablespoon cloves. 
very sweet). 1 tablespoon pepper. 

8 lemons, use juice and yellow 1 bowl vinegar, 
rind. 1 bowl citron. 

5 bowls of apple. 1 tablespoon salt. 

1 bowl suet. 3 nutmegs. 

2 tablesjDoons cinnamon. 

A bowl holding about 1^ pints is used for measuring 

MOCK MINCE PIE. 

1 cup rolled crackers. 2 teaspoons cinnamon 

^ cup boiled cider. 1 cup molasses. 

1 teaspoon of cloves. 1 cup chopped raisins. 

1 cup sugar. ^ cup vinegar. 

1 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon nutmeg. 

MOCK MINCE PIE No. 2. 
1 cup dried English currants. 1 cup sugar. 

1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 teaspoon allspice. 

1 cup sour cream. 1 egg. 

1 teaspoon cloves. 

This will make 2 pies. Bake in 2 crusts. 

SUMMER MINCE PIES. 

1 cup bread crumbs. 1 cup molasses. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 

1 teaspoon cloves and cinnamon. ^ cup butter. 
1 cup water. 

ORANGE PIE — Take 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 table- 
spoon corn=starch, 1 teacup boiling water, yolks of 3 eggs, juice and 
grated rind of 1 orange. Mix all together. Bake in an open shell. 
When set, cover with a meringue made with the whites of the eggs, 
and brown in the oven 

Orange Pie No. 2. — Use the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges. 
Cream 1 tables^Doon butter with 4 tablesjjoons sugar; into this beat 
the yolks of 3 eggs, then the whites of 2, beaten stiff, and mix all 
with the orange juice and the rind. Bake with an under crust only; 
make a meringue with the reserved white, spread over tke pie, and 
lightly brown in the oven. 




PIES 309 

PEACH PIE. — Peel and halve peaches, and 
fill a pie^plate lined with good paste with them; 
sprinkle ^ cup sugar over the fruit, sift on 1 
tablespoon flour (less, if the fruit is not juicy), 
and a few bits of butter; bake until the peaches 
are done. 

The Peaoh tree belongs to the Rose order, is a na- 
tive of Persia and greatly resembles the almonditree. peaoh. 
All the varieties are divided into 2 classes — "freestones" 

and " clingstones," the former being the best. Too much down on a peach is a 
sign of inferior quality. Although a delicious fruit it contains little nutritive mat 
ter. It contains little sugar, but the malic acid it contains is masked by its pec- 
tose. The skin is indigestible. Its acid is principally tartaric. The kernels of 
peach stones yield an oil identical with that of bitter almonds. 

PEACH COBLER. — Take a good sized dish like a pudding=dish ; 
line the sides with good paste, and fill the dish with good peaches, 
halved and pared; sweeten according to taste and the flavor of the 
peaches. Place a small cup in the center to keep the crust from 
sinking down; roll out a crust considerably thicker than for pies, just 
large enough to cover the top of the dish, cut a slit each way in the 
center and place over the peaches; bake a crisi3 brown, and eat with 
cream and sugar, or sweet sauce. Canned peaches may be used if 
more convenient. 

Apple Cobler may be made in the same way, 

PEAR PIE — The iDears should be ripe and mellow enough to 
eat; core and slice them and prepare a crust as for apx^le pies; put a 
small amount of sugar on them, and a few bits of butter, but no 
spices. Bake until the top crust is of a nice light brown color, and 
the under crust will slip on the plate. This, from the taste, might 
be called honeij pie. 

PINEAPPLE PIE — Grateor chop the "Pine" (see Pineapples 
in chapter on fruits), line a deep pie-dish with nice short paste, stir 
a tablespoon of arrowroot or corn^starch into -| cu^d of sugar and cover 
the pineax)ple in the pie=dish; wet the edge of the under crust with 
cold water or the white of an egg, cover with the top crust, cutting a 
place in the center, and bake. Press the edge of the pie all around, 
and bake until of a delicate brown on top and the crust will slii3 on 
the pie-plate. 

POTATO PIE. — Use | cup melted butter, 2 cups sugar, 3 eggs, 
well beaten, 1 quart potatoes boiled and sifted, 1^ cups milk, salt and 
nutmeg, and flavor with orange or lemon juice. Bake with an under 
crust ordy, to a light brown. Eat when a little warm. 



310 PIES 

SWEET=POTATO PIE — Boil the potatoes until soft, mash them 
through a colander and for every ^ i^int add 2 tablespoons of sugar 
and 2 eggs, with milk to make a quart. This fills a deep pie=plate, 
with crust build above the edge of the plate as for custard pie, and 
it is done when the center is not milky. 

PRUNE PIE — Stew prunes as for sauce, stone them, have ready 
a deep iDie^dish lined with puff paste, fill this dish with the stoned 
prunes, sprinkle over them -J cup sugar and a little cinnamon. Bake 
it with an upper crust, or cover it with deep frosting made of the 
whites of 2 eggs, powdered sugar to taste, and any flavor desired. 

PUMPKIN PIE.— Pare and stew the pumpkin till it is soft and 
dry. It must be cooked slowly to the last, to prevent scorching. 
Press through a colander, and to 1 cup of the sifted pumx^kin, add 
1 egg, 3 tablespoons molasses, -J- cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, 1 tea- 
spoon ginger (or cinnamon), and 1 pint of milk. This will fill 1 pie 
on a large plate. Bake like a custard, in rather a slow oven, till a 
golden brown. 

Pumpkin Pie No. 2.— For 3 pies take 1 pint of cooked, strained 
pumpkin, 1 quart of nice rich milk, 5 eggs, 1^ cups of sugar, ^ cup of 
butter and 2 tablesi^oons of cinnamon. (Ginger may be used instead 
of cinnamon if preferred. ) 

In pumpkin or squash pie 1 tablespoon of 
flour may be substituted as the equivalent of 1 
egg- 

RAISIN PIE— Take the seeds from 1 cup of 
raisins, add 1 cui^ of water and boil until the 
raisins are soft. When cold, add the juice and 
grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 cup of rolled crackers, 
and sweeten to taste. Bake in 1 crust, and when 
cool cover with a meringue, and slighty. brown in 
the oven. 

Raisins are dried grapes. There are 2 ways of prepar- 
ing them. One way is to partially cut through the stalk, and 
then let the fruit shrink and dry on the vine, by the heat of 
the sun. The other method is to dip them while yet on 
the vines into a hot solution of alkali, derived from wood ashes, to which olive 
oil and "salt are added. The oil causes them to shrink and wrinkle, and the alkali 
removes the waxy coat which impedes their drying. They are then dried in the 
sun in bunches, on lines or prepared floors. Muscatels are prepared by the firs' 
method, and are sometimes called " raisins of the sun." Raisins contain more 
sugar and less Hcid than grapes, and are therefore more nutritious, but eaten to 
they are apt to derange the digestive organs. 




BAISIN GBAPE. 



RHUBARB PIE — The giant variety with red stalks is the best 
to use. Cut IIk! stalks in half inch pieces; after it is cut pour boil- 



PIES 311 

ing water over it and let it stand 20 minutes; pour that off and re- 
peat the process with boiling water; this extracts much of its oxalic 
acid and partly cooks it without breaking it in pieces. Mix the 
sugar with a little corn-starch. Bake in 2 crusts. The flavor is im- 
proved by adding a little orange. A little nutmeg added to rhu- 
barb pie will improve the flavor and make it taste much like apple. 
Note. — If a little baking soda is mixed with the fruit (say -| a 
fealtspoon to each pie) the alkali will neutralize the oxalic acid of the 
rhubarb and much less sugar will be required for sweetening — a fact 
worth knowing. 

RICE PIE. — To 1 cup steamed rice add 3 cups cream; sweeten 
to taste, and flavor with cinnamon; beat the whites of 2 eggs to a 
froth, then beat all together and put in a deep pie=plate, with under 
crust only. Bake about |- hour. 

SQUASH PIE. — To 1 pint of squash, boiled and passed through 
a sieve or colander, add 3 eggs, 1 heaping teaspoon corn^starch, 1 
teaspoon vanilla, and milk to make it soft; sweeten to taste. This 
makes a large, thick pie. 

STRAWBERRY PIE.— Make a rich butter crust to line the pie- 
plate; fill in the berries, and for each pie use for sweetening about ^ 
cup of sugar and a tablespoon of corn=starch mixed with the sugar; 
bake with an upper crust. 

TOMATO PIE. — Into a tin lined with puff paste, slice ripe toma- 
toes; sweeten with sugar; sprinkle on 2 teaspoons flour, and add a 
little lemon juice for flavor; put on a top crust and bake. 

TRANSPARENT PIE.— Take yolks of 3 eggs, 3 tablespoons of 
sugar, 1| tablespoons of butter; beat well together, flavor to suit 
taste, and bake in 1 crust only of rich puff paste. Cover with a 
meringue, if desired. 

VINEGAR PIE — Take 1 cup sugar, ^ cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon 
butter, 3 tablespoons of flour, 2 cux)s of water, 1 teaspoon of cinna- 
mon. Boil till thick, pour into the crust and bake. 

WASHINGTON PIE — For the crust, use 2 cups, sugar, ^ cup 
butter, 3 cups sifted flour, 4 eggs, ^ teaspoon cream tartar; for the 
filling, 1 tablespoon corn starch, boiled in -| pint milk; beat the yolk 
of 1 egg very liglit, and stir into the milk; flavor with vanilla, and, 
when cold, add the oDier half of the milk and the white of the egg, 
beaten to a stiff iVoth and stirred in quickly; spread this bolwoon the 
cakes, and ico il >vill\ the white of 1 egg and 8 tablespoons o'i finely 
sifted sugar, llavuiwl willi lemon. 



312 TAKTS 

TARTS. 

TARTLETS. — Cut rounds of rich pie=crust, put a strip of the 
same around the edges and bake; when wanted, a little jam, jelly or 
preserves can be placed in each one before serving. 

CRANBERRY TART. — Stew a pint of cranberries with a very 
little water, and sweeten while hot. When cold, if not sweet enough, 
add more sugar. Bake with an under crust, and when the tart is 
cool cover with a meringue, and brown in the oven. 

GOOSEBERRY TART — Stew the gooseberries until they are 
soft, in a very little water, but be careful and not break them; drain 
the water from them, put them on a bottom crust, sprinkle a layer 
of sugar over them, then lay twisted strips of puff paste acioss in 
diamond shape, or bake the crust separately in lieart=shapes, (see 
" Flauns ") and lay it on the tart after baking in one crust. 

LEMON TARTS — Mix together thoroughy 1 pint sugar, 8 eggs, 
well beaten, 1 tablespoon butter, and 2 whole lemons grated; set it on 
the stove, stir until it boils up, and put aside to cool. Fill into tart- 
lets at any time, as it will keep for weeks. 

PINEAPPLE TARTS — Cut as many heart-shaped pieces of puff 
paste as the pie is to be divided into; bake them in a tin in the oven 
until they are light and brown; line a pie^plate with nice pie^crust, 
or puff paste, and bake that. Take a grated pineapple, stew until 
tender in a very little water, then add ^ cup of sugar mixed with 
corn^starch, and stir until it is thick; then pour it into the baked 
bottom crust to cool. When cool and solid, brush over the top 
with the white of an egg, lay a heart of puff paste on each division 
of the tart, and it will adhere to it when dry. Arrowroot or crack- 
er=dust can be used instead of the corn=starch, in fruit pies or tarts 
if preferred. 

STRAWBERRY TART.— Sprinkle sugar over the berries and 
let them lie over night; before using, drain off the juice, and bake the 
fruit in one crust, with strips of paste twisted and crossed over the 
tart in diamond shape; or puff paste may be baked in heart shape 
and laid on the tart after it is baked. 

The juice drawn from the berries can be boiled with added 
sugar, and the syrup bottled and sealed while hot, to be used in pud- 
ding sauces, or diluted with water for a summer beverage. 

Canned strawberries and other small fruits can be made into 
tarts in the same way by draining off the juice. 



SHORTCAKES 313 

FLAUNS [Parisian Tarts). — Stew fresh fruit of any kind as 
for a comi^ote — that is, it should be somewhat sweeter than for fruit 
sauce, but not like preserves. Make a plain crust and line pie^plates, 
cover them thickly with the stewed fruit, and bake without an upper 
crust. Have some nice pufp paste, cut it with a heart-shaped cookey= 
cutter, and bake the hearts separately in a hot oven on baking4ins; 
when the jBauns are cold, and the paste cooled after baking, brush 
over the tops of the tarts with the beaten white of an egg; then place 
a heart of paste over each part of the tart to be cut for each person; 
the points or the hearts are to be turned toward the center of the 
tarts. 



SHORTCAKES. 

Make a soft dough as for baking powder biscuit (see " Baking 
Powder Biscuit"); take it on the molding=board and divide the 
dough into 2 parts, making it up lightly in round masses; do not 
mold or knead it, but flatten each x^iece of dough down into buttered 
jelly^cake tins, or any round pans; bake quickly and turn each one 
on a dinner plate; slice off the top of each one, butter each piece, 
spread with the prepared fruit, place one^half on the other, and have 
fruit on top. This makes 2 cakes, which, cut in quarters, will serve 8 
persons. For 1 cake use ^ cup milk for mixing, and other ingredi- 
ents in proportion. 

The fruit used should be prepared with sufficient sugar and 
ready at hand, so that there will be no delay when the cakes are 
taken from the oven. 

A little fine white cornmeal added to the flour in making short- 
cake is thought an improvement and much relished by some people. 

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.— Prepare the cake as above, 
split it, butter, and spread on the berries, If small they can be 
sweetened and spread on whole; if large they can be mashed or 
chopped and sweetened, and then spread on. Chopping is better 
than mashing the berries. Serve with cream. 

APPLE SHORTCAKE — As soon as the cake is baked, split it 
open, spread one piece with butter, spread it with welhsweetened 
apple sauce, pour on some thick sweet cream, grate on nutmeg, then 
lay on the other piece and cover it the same way. 

BANANA SHORTCAKE.— Slice the bananas and mix with 
oranges in the proportion of 3 bananas to 1 orange; grate the outside 



314 SHORTCAKES 

of the orange peei and mix it with 1 cup of sugar; spread the whole 
over the buttered cakes. It is an improvement to add 4 tablespoons 
of sweet cream, beaten stiff. 

BERRY SHORTCAKES — Any of the small berries, like rasp- 
berries, blackberries, or blueberries, make nice shortcakes. Sweeten 
the berries and make like strawberry shortcake. Black and red 
rasphemes mixed, or raspberries with a few ripe curi'ants mixed in 
make delicious shortcakes. 

CRANBERRY SHORTCAKES — Stew the cranberries, make 
them quite sweet, and spread on the prepared cake. 

FRUIT SHORTCAKES — Any kind of stewed or canned fruit 
can be used for shortcake. Apples, rhubarb, or pears stewed and 
sweetened to taste are nice; prepare the fruit, have it ready, and 
spread it on the shortcake as soon as that is baked. 

JAM SHORTCAKE — Bake the shortcake, split it, and spread on 
raspberry or other jam, as for layer cakes, only thicker. Serve with 
cream. 

PEACH SHORTCAKE — Slice and sweeten the peaches, and 
spread on the buttered cakes, as directed for other shortcakes. 

Apricots, or any other kind of fruit, may be used the same way. 

ORANGE SHORTCAKE — Make a shortcake, as before described; 
then slice oranges, and put in layers of these, with sugar and cream. 
Serve with sweetened cream. 

For chicken shortcake see page 154, 



PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS. 

fN making pudding all the materials — butter, eggs, milk, and 
fruit — should be good. After cutting suet into slices and free- 
ing it from fibrous matter, chop it finely, dredging it lightly 
with flour during the process to keep the pieces from sticking 
together. Suet or milk, which is tainted in the least, will ruin a 
pudding. Fruit, when added, should be stirred in the last thing, the 
same as with cake. Wet fruit will make the pudding heavy, so have 
it dry before putting it in the pudding. The rules for preparing 
raisins and currants are the same as for "Cake" (which see). See 
also what we say there about grating lemon or orange peel. 

Have all spices and almonds, which are used, finley powdered. 
Break eggs separately, for 1 bad one will spoil the others; beat yolks 
and whites separately. It is a good plan to strain the yolks; add the 
whites last. A pinch of salt is an improvement to all puddings, but 
add it sparingly, as its flavor should not be detected. Do not add 
eggs to boiled milk till it cools a little, or they will coagulate into 
little lumps. 

Sugar should be used sparingly, as an excess of sugar is the 
cause of many a broken pudding. 

The ingredients for pudding are generally better for being mixed 
some time before they are wanted. A batter pudding is better for 
standing a while. When you make a batter pudding, first mix the 
flour well with milk, and stir in the other ingredients by degrees ; it 
will then be smooth and quite free from lumps. Another good way 
is to strain it through a coarse hair sieve. 

The Cloth Used. — A thick cloth is best for boiling large puddings. 
Canton flannel, with the nap side out, is excellent, although some 
cooks use muslin. Dip the cloth into boiling water before putting 
in the pudding, then wring it, spread it over a basin, and dredge it 
evenly and thickly with flour; then put in the pudding, gather up 
the corners of the cloth, and tie them. If it is a bread pudding, tie 
it loose; if a batter pudding, tie it nearly close; fruit puddings 
should be tied quite close. As soon as possible after it is taken off 
of the pudding the cloth should be soaked in water, and then well 
washed, without soap unless it is very greasy. Then dry it well, fold 
it up, and keep in a dry place. It is perhaps needless to state that 
there should be no holes in the cloth. 

315 



316 PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS 

TO BOIL PUDDINGS.— The correct method is to put them at 
first into hoiling water, and it should be kc^d boiling until they are 
done. Never keep them simmering in moderately hot water, as act- 
ive hoiling is what they need. The principle is the same as described 
for cooking vegetables. Always beat up the pudding just before 
pouring it into the cloth. Keep the pudding covered with water, 
and if it boils away pour in more water which is hoiling. Move 
puddings occasionally, to keep them from sticking to the kettlp. An 
inverted plate or saucer in the bottom of the kettle will save the 
pudding from burning or sticking to the bottom. When the pud- 
ding is done, lift it out and dij) it at once in cold water, let it stand 
to cool a minute, and the cloth will not adhere to it, nor will it 
break; untie the cloth and turn it away from the pudding, place a 
hot dish on top of it, and turn the j)udding into it. If boiled in 
molds, treat the same way. Serve immediately, for if a pudding is 
allowed to stand, it will darken, fall, and be ruined. When preferred, 
the pudding may be boiled in a Ijasin, but first grease the basin or 
mold well, and after putting in the pudding, tie a floured cloth 
over it. 

Time to Boil. — There is an old saying that puddings cannot be 
too well boiled; and certainly there is more danger of boiling them 
too short than too long a time. They need to boil from 2 to 4 hours 
usually. 

STEAMING — As a rule puddings will be lighter and better if 
they are steamed rather than baked or boiled. Put them into a well 
greased tin pan or earthen dish, dredge a thick cloth with flour, tie it 
on top, set the dish in the steamer and cover it closely. Put the 
steamer over hoiling water, which should be hept boiling, and during 
the whole process of steaming do not remove the cover. 

Time to Steam. — It takes a little longer to steam than to boil a 
pudding, and the steaming should be thorough. It will take from 2 
to 4^ hours to steam puddings w^ell. 

BAKING — When baked puddings are sufiiciently solid, turn them 
out of the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew fine- 
ly sifted sugar over them. If the outside of baked puddings are suffi- 
ciently brown, and yet they are not baked through, put a piece of 
white paper over them which will prevent the top from burning be- 
fore they are thoroughly cooked. Puddings made of custard require 
more care in baking than others, and should never remain in the oven 
until they become watery; they will be thicker and richer if made 
with 1 egg and baked slowly, than if made with 3 eggs and baked 



PUDDING SAUCES 317 

quickly. Any pudding in which milk and eggs are used, will sepa- 
rate if the oven is too hot, and it should therefore be cooked at a low 
temperature. 

The time to hake depends on the joudding, a rice or tapioca pud- 
ding baking in about 1 hour, while a plum pudding takes 2 or 3 
hours. 

TO CREAM BUTTER — In making cake and the better class of 
puddings it is often desirable to beat the butter to a cream before us- 
ing it. Put the butter in an earthenware vessel (but do not use tin 
or iron, as they will discolor it), and beat it with a spoon or fork — a 
wooden or silver fork or spoon is best. After beating it about, the 
butter gradually comes back into a creamy state, but thicker than 
cream itself, and is then " creamed butter." If cold, warm the ves- 
sel by pouring hot water in it; then wipe it dry before using it. 



PUDDING SAUCES. 

Do not boil a sauce after adding, the butter. If sugar and cream 
are served for a pudding sauce, pass them separately, letting each one 
use what their taste desires. 

Caramel. — This makes a fine flavoring for sauces as well as 
soups, and can be preijared as directed for soups. The ^jrei^ared car- 
amel can be used if you have it on hand. ( See the recipe for pre- 
l^aring it, given in our article on colors for frostings, in the chapter 
on Cake.) 

Caramel Syrup — Sprinkle a tablespoon of sugar over the bot- 
tom of the frying-pan and put over the fire until it bubbles brown 
and begins to smoke, but do not let it burn black; then add a pint of 
water, and let it boil until the caramel is dissolved; then add 2 cups 
granulated sugar and melt to a syrujp. If liked heavier, add more 
sugar. This makes a fine substitute for maple sugar, and has much 
the same flavor. It is also excellent with griddle cakes. 

Substitute for Cream. — Use 2 cups sweet milk, yolk of 1 egg, 1 
teaspoon of flour, sugar to sweeten, and any flavoring desired. 
Boil the milk, beat the egg and flour with sugar enough to make quite 
sweet; stir this into the milk when that boils, and let it simmer (not 
boil), stirring it well; flavor to taste when it cools. This is better 
than thin cream, and good for any pudding in which eggs are used. 

ACID PUDDING SAUCE.~Mix together thoroughly 1 cup 
sugar, \ cup butter, and 2 tablespoons flour; add a little vinegar or 



318 PUDDING SAUCES 

juice of some acid fruit, and a little nutmeg; pour on about 2 cups of 
boiling water, and boil a few minutes. 

BERRY PUDDING SAUCE — Use 2 eggs, ^ cup butter, and 1 
cup sugar beaten well, with 1 cujo boiling milk, and 1 cup berries, 
steamed apx)les, or any fruit (chopped) you may have. Or (2) cream 
|- cup butter with 1 cup sugar, add 1 cup of any fresh berries and stir 
well together. Jam or marmalade can be used instead of the berries. 

BROWN PUDDING SAUCE— Take the yolk of 1 egg, * cup of 
butter, 1 cup of sugar; stir all to a cream, and add the whites of 2 
eggs, and a little nutmeg. 

CIDER SAUCE — Use 1 tablespoon of flour, 2 tablesj)oons of 
butter, 4 tablespoons of boiled cider, 1 cup brown sugar, ^ cuiJ boil- 
ing water. Mix the flour and butter, stir in the sugar and cider, add 
the boiling water, mix all thoroughly, and simmer a little while. 

CREAM SAUCE. — Sweet cream, either alone or sent with white 
sugar, makes an excellent sauce for most puddings; it is sometimes 
flavored. 

WHIPPED CREAM SAUCE.— Whip 1 cup ice cold sweet cream 
and ^ cuj) powdered sugar; add 1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon. The 
beaten whites of 1 to 3 eggs are often added. Nice with fruit pud- 
dings, or to cover slices of sponge cake. 

Use also the "Mock Whipped Cream " given among our fillings 
for cake. It is delicious. 

DELICATE PUDDING SAUCE.— Scald a teacup of sweet milk, 
beat the yolks of 2 eggs with § cup of brown sugar, and stir in; when 
it is thick as custard remove from the fire, and when cool add what- 
ever flavoring you choose, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
stiff froth. 

DUTCH SAUCE — Take the juice of 1 lemon, and whites of 2 
eggs. Beat together with sufficient sugar to give the proper consist- 
ency. 

EGG SAUCE — Beat to a cream 1 cup sugar, and ^ cup butter, 

add 1 egg, beaten separately, and set it over a kettle of hot water. 

FOAMING SAUCE — Use 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of 
boiling water. Beat the sugar and yolks together; pour the boiling 
water over. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth and stir in last. 

Foam Sauce, No. 2 — Take the yolk of 1 egg and beat it with 1 cup 
sugar and butter the size of an egg, until light, add boiling water and 
set it over a kettle until cooked; flavor with lemon juice; beat the 
white of the egg to a stiff froth and add the last thing. 



PUDDING SAUCES 819 

FRUIT JUICE SAUCE — Take ^- pint of any kind of fruit juice, 
like apricot, peach, etc., add 1 teaspoon of flour or corn^starch and ^ 
cup sugar; mix well, boil 5 minutes, and strain. 

GOLDEN SAUCE — Beat 1 heaping tablespoon of butter into 1 
cup of powdered sugar until light; stir into this the yolks of 3 eggs 
and 3 tablespoons of milk or cream, and add the stiffly beaten whites 
of the eggs. Set the bowl in which the sauce is being made in a ket- 
tle of boiling water, and stir constantly until it thickens, but no 
longer; add lemon or vanilla when the sauce 's done. 

JELLY SAUCE — Use 2 tablespoons of jelly, 2 heaping table- 
spoons of sugar, |- teaspoon of corn^starch and water. Melt the jelly 
and sugar in ^ pint of boiling water; then dissolve the corn=starch in 

1 cup of cold water and stir it in; bring to a boil and it will be done. 
Any jelly can be used. 

HARD LEMON SAUCE.— Mix the grated rind of 1 lemon with 

2 cups sugar, and beat it to a cream with 1 cup butter; then 
thoroughly mix with the sauce the strained juice of the lemon. 

Hard Vanilla Sauce is made by beating to a cream 1 cup butter 
and 2 cups sugar, and then mixing in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. 
Either of these go well with plain boiled rice. 

LEMON SAUCE — Cream together 1 cup sugar and ^ cup but- 
ter; add the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 egg well beaten, and 
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg; set the dish containing it in a pan of hot 
water, add ^ cup boiling water, and stir 5 minutes. Keep hot until 
used. 

Lemon Sauce, No. 2. — Take 1 cup of sugar, juice and grated rind 
of 1 lemon, 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon corn-starch; boil from 8 to 10 
minutes. 

LOMBARD SAUCE. — Heat 2 cups cream slowly, set in a sauce= 
pan of boiling water; when scalding hot, remove it from the fire, add 
4 teaspoons powdered sugar, and ^ teaspoon grated nutmeg; stir 2 or 

3 minutes, add the whites of 2 eggs, beaten stiff, mis thoroughly, 
add 1 teaspoon vanilla to flavor, and set in a pan of hot water to 
keep hot till served, stirring occasionally. 

MAPLE SAUCE — Beat well together 2 cups maple sugar, juice 
of 2 lemons, 2 eggs, and butter the size of a walnut; steam 20 
minutes. Good also on fritters. 

MAPLE SUGAR SAUCE.— Shave maple sugar into a bowl of 
thick, sweet cream. It makes one of the best of sauces for cornmeal 
pudding. 



•!20 PUDDING SAUCES 

MILK PUDDiiNQ SAUCE.— Take 1 egg, -| cup butter, 1 cup of 
sugar; mix thoroughly together, and then pour over them 1 cup 
boiling milk. Flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. 

MOLASSES SAUCE.— Use 1 tablespoon of butter, ^ cup of 
water, 1 cup of molasses, ^ teaspoon of cinnamon (or nutmeg), ^ 
teaspoon of salt, juice of 1 lemon. Mix all together, and boil 20 
minutes. Good for rice or apple puddings. 

ORANGE SAUCE. — Use 1 cup hot water, 1 cup sugar, ^ yup 
butter, 1 heaping tablespoon of corn-starch wet in the strained juice 
of 2 acid oranges (the red, or blood oranges are the best); boil the 
water, sugar and orange ijeel until the sugar is dissolved; then add 
the corn-starch and orange juice, and let boil until it thickens; take 
out the orange peel and add the butter, with 1 saltspoon of salt; stir 
well together, and serve. 

PINEAPPLE SAUCE. — Use 4 tablesi^oons sugar (heaping), 2 
tablespoons of butter, white of 1 egg (beaten), pineapple to flavor. 
Mix the sugar, butter and beaten egg, and add the flavor. Shape it 
into a pyramid, and make the sides like a pine=aj)ple, using the point 
of a teaspoon. Any other flavor can be used, if preferred. 

PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE — Beat together thoroughly, 1 table- 
spoon butter, 4 tablespoons sugar, and 1 tablespoon flour; add the 
white of 1 egg, well beaten, and -| cup boiling water, and any flavor- 
ing desired. This makes a good sauce for ordinary uses, although 
most sauce recipes call for more butter. It goes well with any hot 
pudding. 

PLUM PUDDING SAUCE.— Rub 2 spoons of corn^starch 
smooth with a little milk, and stir it into 1 pint of boiling water; add 
a large piece of butter, and use currant jelly to flavor it with. It 
may be well to know that a good foundation for plum pudding sauce 
is the liquor in which it was boiled, as that is quite rich. 

Plum Pudding Sauce No. 2.— Use fresh butter and pulverized or 
granulated sugar beaten together until the mixture becomes of the 
consistency of cream. 

SWEET PUDDING SAUCE.— Beat to a cream ^ cup butter and 
1 cup sugar; thicken 1^ cups boiling water with a very little corn- 
starch (just enough to make it creamy); let it boil, draw to the back 
of the stove, and stir the butter and sugar in quickly. Flavor with 
vanilla, lemon, nutmeg, or anything preferred. 

VANILLA SAUCE — Use the yolk of 1 egg, whites of 2 eggs, ^ 
cuj) sugar (powdered), 3 tablespoons sweet milk, 1 teaspoon of 



PUDDINGS 321 

vanilla. First beat to a stiff froth the whites of 2 eggs; beat the 
sugar in next; then the yolk of egg, and the milk and vanilla last. 
Serve at once. Most suitable for light puddings. 

VINEGAR SAUCE. — Use 1 tablespoon of flour, 1^ tablespoons 
of vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 2 cups boiling water, 1 teaspoon of butter, a 
pinch of salt, nutmeg. Mix the flour in a little water and stir in the 
vinegar, sugar, salt and nutmeg; add the boiling water, and boil 10 
minutes; add the butter last, just as it is about to be taken from the 
stove. 

WHITE PUDDING SAUCE — Take 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 
tablespoon butter, and a little salt, pour on 1 cup boiling water, and, 
when it boils, thicken with 1 large tablespoon of flour blended in 3 
of milk; boil 1 minute, flavor with lemon, take from the fire, and stir 
in the whites of 3 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with 1 tablespoon of 
powdered sugar added. 



PUDDINGS. 

Puddings are less expensive than pies, and they are also much 
more wholesome. 

ALMOND PUDDING. 

1 pint of milk. 1 teaspoon lemon essence. 

2 ounces of almonds. 3 tablespoons of flour. 
4 ounces of sugar. 1 ounce of butter. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the milk and let it cool; beat the eggs lightly with the 
flour; blanch the almonds, and pound in a mortar to a paste with the 
essence of lemon, or use peach water; melt the butter in the milk, 
add the sugar and pounded almonds, and beat all well together. 
Bake in buttered cups, or small molds. 

The almond is the fruit of a tree which grows to a height 
(•"f 20 to '60 feet, and resembles the peach. There are 2 varie- 
liefs the sweet and the bitter. The bitter are smaller and 
thicker than the sweet, and contain prussio acid, a most ac- 
tive poison. In domestic economy the sweet should always 
be used in preference to the others. Although considered 
nourishing they often disagree with those of weak digestion. 

APPLE PUDDING.— Use 1^ lbs. peeled ap- 
ples; make it into apple sauce, sweeten and spice 
to taste, add 4 eggs, a piece of butter -| the size of 
an egg, and flour to stiffen ; bake in a quick oven. 
Servo with a good sauce, or sugar and cream. 
21. 




322 PUDDINGS 

APPLE INDIAN PUDDING. 

1 cup Indian meal. 2 teaspoons salt. 

1 cup molasses. 3 tablespoons butter. 

A little ginger and nutmeg. 1 quart apples, pared and quart- 

2 quarts milk. ered (not too sour). 

Scald the milk and pour it gradually on the meal; put this in 
the double boiler and cook ^ hour, stirring often. Butter a deep 
pudding dish, add molasses, butter, spices and apples to this ^lixture, 
and bake in a slow oven 3 hours. If any remains it may be eaten 
cold with cream or milk next day. 

BERRY PUDDING. 

1 cup milk. 1 tablespoon melted butter. 

3 cups flour. 2 tablespoons baking powder, 

1 egg. 1^ cups berries or fruit of any 

kind. 

Steam 2 hours. 

No. 2. — Mix 1 cup sugar (| cup will do very well), 2 tablespoons 
butter, add 2 cups flour with 2 teaspoons baking powder sifted into 
it, a pinch of salt, 1 cup milk and 1 egg; cover a buttered pudding 
dish thick with berries, pour this batter over them, and bake about 
40 minutes. This is delicious with fresh blackberries, but is nearly 
as good with apples peeled and sliced, or with canned huckleberries 
or blackberries. For' sauce, use 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 tablespoons 
butter, 1 egg, and flavoring. 

BIRD'S NEST PUDDING. 
Flour enough to make a stiff 1 egg, 

batter, 1 teaspoon of soda. 

1 pint sour milk. A little salt. 

Pare 4 or 5 apples, take out the cores, place in a buttered dish 
and pour over the batter. Bake about ^ hour. Use hard sauce or 
cream. 

BLACK PUDDING.— Sift 2 teaspoons baking powder into 1 cup 
flour, add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ^ teaspoon ground cloves, a pinch of 
salt; wet with milk till smooth, and add 1 cup molasses, 1 tablespoon 
butter, 1 egg; bake in a greased pudding dish | hour. Use foam 
sauce or hard sauce, 

BREAD CRUMB PUDDING.— Take 1 teacup of dried crumbs, 
soak with boiling water, add 2 cups milk, 2 eggs, a full ^ cup of 
sugar, a pinch of salt, a teaspoon of flavoring, and bake. It will 
be an improvement to cover it with a meringue and brown in the 
oven when cool; or spread a little jam on top. 



PUDDINGS 323 

BREAD PUDDING. 

2 cups bread crumbs soaked in 2 eggs (well beaten). 

4 cups milk. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 teaspoon butter (heaping). 1 saltspoon nutmeg. 

^ cup white sugar. 

Stir well together and bake in a buttered pudding dish f to 1 
hour. 

A nice dessert is made by stirring into a common bread pudding 
almost any kind of fruit, such as apples, raisins, peaches, prunes, 
dates, figs, cranberry sauce, jelly etc.; then bake. Many varieties are 
thus easily produced. 

BEEAD PUDDING No. 2. 

1 quart of milk. 1 small cup sugar. 

1 pint bread crumbs. 1^ teaspoons vanilla extract. 

8 eggs. A small piece of butter. 

Beat the yolks of eggs and stir them with the rest of the ingre- 
dients, reserving the whites for the top. Bake the pudding 25 min- 
utes, then take it from the oven, spread a layer of currant jelly over 
the top; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with 1 tablespoon 
of sugar, spread this on top of the jelly, return to the oven to brown 
on top. Raspberry jam is equally as good as jelly for this pudding. 
Serve with cream or a hot sauce. 

BERRY BREAD PUDDING.— Cut stale bread in even slices, 
pare off the crust, and butter each slice; put the largest slice on a 
platter, cover it with canned huckleberries or blackberries which are 
heated scalding hot; put on another slice, cover it with the berries, 
and so on till all is used, and you have a neat mound of pudding. 
This may be covered and kept hot in the warming closet until serv- 
ing time, and eaten with hard sauce, or made early in the day and 
served cold with sugar and cream — it is delicious either way. If 
the berries are very sweet, adding 2 or 3 tablespoons of vinegar is 
an improvement. 

STEAMED BREAD PUDDING. 



1 pint bread crumbs. 


1 cup raisins. 


1 cup molasses. 


1 teaspoon soda. 


1 cup hot water poured on the 


1 tablespoon melted butter. 


bread. 


1 egg. 


1 cup flour. 


Spices to taste. 



Steam 2 hours. Good and inexpensive. 

CAKE PUDDING — Soak slices of stale cake in lemonade and 
lay them in a pudding dish. Pour over it a soft custard, and cover 



324 PUDDINGS 

it with a meringue; then place it in the oven to brown slightly. 
To be eaten cold. 

Cake Pudding No. 2. — Cut thin slices of stale cake of any kind, 
enough to fill a pudding dish § full; then make plain "sweet sauce" 
enough to cover all, and let it stand in the oven until time to serve. 
A little lemon, or other fruit juice, can be added to the sweet sauce 
if liked. 

Cake Pudding No. 3. — Put any kind of stale cake in a steamer -| 
hour before dinner, and steam it through; prepare a sauce by tak- 
ing ^ cup sugar, 1 even tablespoon of flour, a little water to moisten; 
stir well together, pour in 1^ cups boiling water, grate in a little 
nutmeg, and boil 10 minutes; add a spoon of vinegar, and serve 
with the cake cut up in thick slices. 

CALIFORNIA PUDDING.— Use 1 cup sugar, | cup butter, | cup 
molasses, ^ cup sour milk, 1 cup chopped raisins, 1 teaspoon soda, 
2^ cups flour. Steam 3 hours. Eat with whipi^ed cream, or our 
mock whipped cream (which see), or with our egg sauce. 

CANNED PUDDING — Soak and wash 1 pint of tapioca, and 
add 3 pints of warm water, and let it stand 3 hours in a kettle of 
boiling water; then place in glass fruit jars a layer of sliced peaches, 
with sugar enough to sweeten them, then a layer of tapioca, adding 
alternate layers until the cans are filled; then set them in a kettle 
in f their dej)th of water, let the water come to boiling and keep 
the jars in ^ hour; then take them out and seal them. A thickly 
folded cloth must be under the jars to keep them from touching the 
bottom of the kettle. Tapioca and apples can be canned the same 
way. Serve either hot or cold, with sweetened cream, or any liquid 
sauce. This canned pudding is convenient in case you need a des- 
sert in a hurry. 

CHARLOTTE PUDDING — Butter a mold, then line it with thin 
slices of bread well buttered, with a well-buttered slice on the bot- 
tom; fill with nice baking apples pared, quartered and cored, sea- 
soned with sugar and spices to taste; cover it with a thin slice of 
bread well buttered ; put a plate or tin cover over that, and bake 2 
hours. Sponge cake may be substituted for bread, or slices of any 
plain cake, if it is preferred. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.— Whip to a cream 1 cup sugar and | 
cup butter; add -| pint of milk, and the yolks of 2 eggs well beaten; 
add 1 pint of flour and 1 oz. of chocolate or cocoa which has been 
melted over hot water and beat until smooth; then add the whites 



PUDDINGS B25 

of the 2 eggs, beaten stiff, and 1 teaspoon baking powder; put it in 
cups, and steam f hour. 

CHRISTMAS PUDDING. 
1 cup finely chopped suet. 1 cup Zante currants. 

1 cup seeded raisins. 1 cup molasses. 

1 egg. 1 even teaspoon salt. 

1 cup flour. 1 even teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. Cinnamon and allspice to season. 

Prepare the day before the pudding is cooked. Wash the cur- 
rants and pick over carefully; then put them wet into a cooking 
bowl to stand over night, and all the other ingredients excepting the 
flour and soda; beat well. The next morning add the flour and 
soda, and beat, and stir together again; put in the pudding basin 
or mold, and steam 4 hours. The water must boil in the steamer- 
kettle, and be kept boiling until the pudding is taken up. Hot water 
from the tea-kettle can be added as needed. 

CHERRY PUDDING — Put pitted and sweet- 
ened cherries an inch deep or so, in the bottom of 
a pudding dish. Take 1 cup sugar, beaten to a 
cream with 2 tablespoons butter, add 1 egg, 1 cup 
milk, 2 cups flour, and 2 teaspoons baking pow- 
der; mix well, flavor with nutmeg or lemon, pour 
over the cherries, and bake. Then turn from the 
dish, having the fruit on top; and serve with 
warm sweet sauce. Or (2) cherries can be stirred 
into a common bread pudding, and then baked — 
see " Bread Pudding." 

The Cherry as a cultivated fruit tree is generally sup- 
posed to be of Asiatic origin. It belongs to the rose order. It bears a sub«acid 
fruit which is wholesome, cooling, laxative and antiscorbutic, but if not fully ripe 
should be eaten cautiously, as it has a tendency to disorder the bowels. Its acid is 
principally malic. 

COCOANUT PUDDING— Take nicely buttered slices of bread, 
sprinkle each one thickly with cocoanut and sugar, and put them 
into a pie dish. Make a custard of 2 cups milk and 2 eggs, pour it 
over, -put bits of butter on toj) and bake 1 hour. 

COCOANUT RICE PUDDING— Soak 1 cup of rice in water 3 
hours, then add 1 pint of milk and cook gently until it is tender; 
beat 5 eggs and 1 cup of white sugar together, add another pint of 
milk, a little salt and the rice, mix well, flavor with lemou and pour 
into a buttered bowl and boil steadily for 1 hour; dip the bowl into 
cold water after it is cooked, and let it stand about 10 minutes, turn 




326 PUDDINGS 

out into a flat dish and strew all over with desiccated cocoanut 
Serve with a thin boiled custard for sauce. 

CORN PUDDING. 

12 ears of corn. 4 eggs, thoroughly beaten. 

1 quart of milk. 3 taljlespoons of sugar. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Scald the corn, then grate it, add the other ingredients, and poui 
into a pudding dish. Bake slowly. 

CORN^^STARCH PUDDING. 
3 cups milk. 2 tablesj)oons corn=starch — in a 

1 teaspoon vanilla. little milk. 

2 eggs, beaten light. ^ cup of sugar. 

Let the milk and sugar boil before putting in the eggs, starch or 
vanilla. Save out the whites of the eggs for frosting, if you like. 

Corn=starch, as its name indicates, is the starch extracted from Indian corn. 
It is light and easily digested but is not very nutritious, as it is about 84^ starch, 
and 15^ water. 

Note. — It should be understood that starch to be digestible should be cooked 
about 20 minutes, and that it is not cooked as soon as swollen, as many cooks 
imagine. There is danger of cooking corn=starch too short a time, and so leaving 
it indigestible, and with a raw taste. 

CRANBERRY PUDDING — Use 1 egg, beaten light, 1 teaspoon 
soda dissolved in 1 cup milk, and sift 1 heaping teaspoon cream of 
tartar and a little salt thoroughly into 2 cups flour; add 1 cup of 
cranberries, and steam 1^ hours. Serve with sweet sauce. 

COTTAGE PUDDING. 
1 cup of suet. 1 egg. 

1 cup of sweet milk. 2 cups of flour. 

1 teaspoon cream tartar. -g teaspoon soda 

Bake | hour. Eat with hot sauce. 

BAKED COTTAGE PUDDING. 
1 pint of flour. 1 small cup of sugar. 

1 cup of milk. 1 tablespoon of butter. 

2 teaspoons of baking powder. 

STEAMED COTTAGE PUDDING. 

3 tablespoons melted butter and 1 cup milk. 

1 teacup sugar beaten together. 1 egg. 

2 teaspoons of baking powder. 2 cups of flour. 

Steam -| hour. 

CRACKER PUDDING — Put a layer of split crackers in a deep 
pudding dish, put on raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg and a little salt, and 
fill it ^ full with alternate layers in this way, packing it down 
tightly; then put a plate over it, till the dish with milk, and let it 



PUDDINGS 327 

stand several hours to soak. Tlien beat 2 eggs witli 1 cup sugar, 
pour off any milk not absorbed and mix it with the eggs, adding 
more milk if needed; pour this over the pudding, leaving on the 
plate to keep it in shape, and bake about 2 hours. It should retain 
its shape when turned out, if right. Good either hot with sauce, or 
cold. 

CRACKED WHEAT PUDDING To 1 quart of unskimmed 

milk add | cup uncooked cracked wheat, ^ cup sugar, and a little 
piece of stick cinnamon, and ^ cup of any fruit preferred. Bake in 
a moderate oven, and when about half done stir in the crust which 
will be formed, leaving it to form another, which will be sufficiently 
brown. Test by tasting a grain of the wheat, which must be very 
soft. Eat when cold. 

DATE PUDDING — Soak 1 cup bread crumbs in 1 cup milk 10 
minutes; add 2 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons powdered suet, 1 teaspoon 
each of salt and cinnamon and ^ cup sugar; have 1 cup dates cut 
into small pieces, dredge them in 1 tablespoon of flour, stir them 
into the pudding, beat all vigorously, turn into a well greased mold, 
and steam 3 hours. Eat with hard sauce. Or (2) stir dates into a 
common bread pudding and bake, see " Bread Pudding." 

DELMONICO PUDDING.— Mix 3 tablespoons corn=starch with a 
little cold milk, stir it into 4 cups milk, and add 6 tablespoons sugar 
and 5 yolks of eggs beaten together; boil 4 or 5 minutes, pour it in a 
pudding dish, and bake 30 minutes. Beat 6 ^tablespoons sugar and 
the whites of the eggs together, si>read it on top of the pudding, and 
brown it delicately in the oven. 

DOVEK PUDDING. 

1| pints stewed apples. | pound butter 

1 cup cream. I eggs. 

Grated lemon peel and sugar to 
taste. 

Put in the butter while the apples are hot; the remainder when 
cool. Dried apples will do. Bake in a quick oven in a deep pie tin, 
covered with crust. 

ENGLISH PUDDING. 

1 cup suet. 3^ cups flour. 

1 cup raisins, chopped. 1 cup of milk or cider. 

1 cup molasses. ^ teaspoon soda dissolved in the 

Add salt. molasses. 

Steam 3 hours. 



328 PUDDmGS 

FARINA PUDDING — Boil a quart of milk and water, half and 
half; add a level teaspoon of salt, then slowly sprinkle in farina until 
it is a thin mush; turn into sm'all cups or molds to harden. Serv(^ 
cold, one to each person, with sugar and cream, or any favorite liquid 
pudding sauce. This is a good dessert for hot weather, and particu- 
larly relished by invalids and children. This pudding can be mixed 
with milk, sugar and eggs, and baked like a rice pudding 

FEATHER PUDDING — Use 1 egg, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup milk, 2 
cups flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 2 tables^joons melted butter; 
steam 1 hour. For sauce, cream ^ cup butter with 1 cup sugar, add 

1 cup raspberries and stir well together. Any jam or other fresh 
berries may be used instead of the raspberries. 

FIG PUDDING — Use 2 cups bread crumbs; chop tine and add ^ 
lb. nice figs; cream 1 teacup butter with ^ teacup of brown sugar and 
add 4 beaten eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; mix all 
together, put into a greased pudding mold and steam 3 hours; or it 
can be boiled in a pudding bag 2^ hours. Nice beef suet can be 
used instead of butter if more convenient. Eat with any good sweet 
pudding sauce. 

FRUIT PUDDING — Into the farina boiler put 3 cups rich milk 
and 1 cup sugar and bring to a boil; have 5 tablespoons of sifted 
flour wet with 1 cup of milk, and pour on the hot mixture gradually, 
stirring all the time to prevent lumps; return to the kettle and cook 
till it thickens, — about 10 minutes after beginning to boil; then take 
from the stove and beat while cooling; when half cooled add sliced 
peaches, apricots, bananas, whole raspberries, blackberries, huckle- 
berries or strawberries. Serve ice cold. Vary the amount of fruit to 
suit taste 

This pudding may be varied by leaving out the fruit and using 

2 cups strong coffee instead of that much milk, and proceed as 
before. Or, i3ut 1 square of chocolate in the milk, omit the fruit, 
and thus make a chocolate pudding. 

GINGER PUDDING— Take 1 cup molasses, 1 egg, ^ cup butter, 
^ cup hot water, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 teaspoon soda; stir in flour 
enough to make pretty stiff, and add ^ cup of any fruit desired; put 
in a greased mold and steam 1^ hours. 

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.— Cook the gooseberries until soft, in 
as little water as possible, rub them through a sieve, and add 2 table- 
spoons butter, 3 eggs well beaten, 1 teacup bread crumbs, | teacup 
sugar; put a border of puff paste around the side of a pudding dish. 



PUDDINGS 329 

beat the mixture well, or until very liii;lit, put it in a tlisli, and bake 
40 minutes. As soon as it is done strew suL,^ar over it thickly, and 
serve at once. 

GOLD PUDDING — To the well^beaten yolks of 8 eggs, add | 
cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 cvip milk; add 1 teaspoon of baking 
powder in flour enough to make a fairly stiff batter, a little salt, and 
1 cup seeded raisins; beat all well together and steam one hour. 
Serve with our white pudding sauce. The golden yellow pudding, 
with white sauce, will please both eye and palate. 

GRAHAM PUDDING.— Take 1 cup raisins seeded and chopped, 
1 cuxj molasses, 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 1 scant cup sweet milk, 
-| teaspoon salt, 2 cups graham flour; steam 3 hours. Fine. 

STEAMED GRAHAM PUDDING.— Beat together 3 eggs and 3 
tablespoons sugar, add 1 tablespoon melted butter, ^ cup sour cream, 
1 cup sour milk, 1 teasjooon soda sifted into 3 cups graham flour; 
add dried cherries, or pour over sliced apples, if fruit is desired, and 
steam. It is nice with or without fruit. Eat with cream and sugar. 

HANOVER PUDDING.— Sift 2 teaspoons baking powder into 2^ 
cups flour, add a pinch of salt and some spices (say cinnamon and 
nutmeg), 1 cup suet or ^ cup butter, | cup molasses, 1 cup milk, 1 
egg, 1 cup stoned raisins; boil 2^ to 3 hours. Eat with hard sauce, 
or any liquid sauce preferred. 

HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING — Beat 2 eggs without separating, 
add 1 cup milk, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1| cups flour and beat 
thoroughly; have 2 cups huckleberries washed and dried, dust them 
with flour, add them to the pudding Math 1 teaspoon of baking 
powder, mix quickly, turn into a greased mold, and steam 1 hour. 

INDIAN PUDDING, BAKED— Stir gradually 1 even cup corn- 
meal in 1 quart of boiling milk, let boil a few minutes, lift from the 
stove, and add 1 teasp)oon butter and a little salt; stir in ^ pint 
molasses, and ■§ pint cold milk last; put into a i^udding dish, well 
buttered, and bake 3 hours in a moderate oven. 

No. 2. — In 1 quart boiling milk, stir 1^ cups cornmeal, and 1 cup 
molasses; let it cool and add 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teacup suet, and stir 
in a little allspice; pour in 2 cups cold milk, and bake. 

INDIAN PUDDING, BOILED.— Warm 2 cups molasses and 2 
cups milk, stir well together; beat 4 eggs and stir with the molasses 
and milk; add 1 lb. beef suet chopj)ed tine, and Indian meal enough 
to make a stiff batter; add 1 teaspoon each of ciiinamon and nulmeg, 



330 PUDDINGS 

and a little grated lemon peel; stir together well, tie in the floured 
bag, leaving room to swell, and boil 3 hours Serve hot with a good 
sauce. 

No. 2.— Use 1 cup flour, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder, 
1 teaspoon salt, 2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons melted butter (or 4 table- 
spoons sour cream), 3 eggs, 1 small i^inch of soda, and enough corn- 
meal to make a stiff batter. Mix in the order giv^, and pour into a 
baking powder can, or any other covered can of convenient size; set 
in a kettle containing enough boiling waiter to come up nearly to the 
top of the can, i^lace a weight on top of the can to keep it upright, 
and boil about 2 hours. Eat with the maple sugar sauce given 
among our i^udding sauces. 

INDIAN PUDDING, STEAMED.— Use 2 cups milk, 2 eggs, 1^ 
cups Indian meal, 2 small tablespoons beef suet, 2 tablespoons 
molasses, | teaspoon each of cinnamon and ground ginger, 1 salt- 
spoon salt, a pinch of soda. Heat the milk boiling hot, add the soda 
and pour it upon the meal; stir well, add the suet, chopped, and the 
salt; when it gets cold, add the eggs, beaten light, the molasses and 
spices, and beat all hard. Turn in a welhgreased mold, and steam 4 
hours. Eat with hard sauce. 

LEMON PUDDING — Use 1 cup milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 
heaping teaspoon of baking powder, and flour enough to roll out; roll 
in 3 sheets. Take juice of 1 lemon, 1 cup pulverized sugar, and 
spread between the layers like jelly. Put it in a tin and steam 3 
hours. Serve with our Lemon Sauce No. 1. 

Lemon Pudding No. 2 — Heat 4 cups milk, pour.it over 2 cups bread 
crumbs and add 2 tablespoons butter; when cold add beaten yolks 
of 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon; bake in a buttered 
dish till firm and slightly brown. When done, cover with a 
meringue made of 4 whites of eggs whipped with 4 tablespoons of 
sugar and the juice of 1 lemon, and brown slightly in the oven. 
Eat warm with lemon sauce. 

LOWELL PUDDING. 
1 cup milk. 1 teacup suet. 

1 cup raisins. 1 teaspoon soda. 

I cup molasses. 1 teaspoon salt. 

I teacup brown sugar. 'Flour to make a stiff batter. 

Steam 3 hours. Serve with any good sauce. 

MINUTE PUDDING— Use 1 quart sweet milk, 2 eggs, 1 pint 
sifted flour, 1 level teaspoon of salt; beat the eggs well, add the flour, 
and milk enough to make it smooth. Butter the kettle, and put in 



PUDDINGS 331 

the remainder of the milk with the salt; when it boils, put in the 
eggs and flour, and cook until stiff. Serve hot with any simple 
sauce. 

No. 2. — Use 1 cup of water, 1 cup sweet milk, salt to taste; let it 
boil and stir in flour until it is a stiff batter; the flour must be stirred 
in very gradually, to avoid large lumps. Serve immediately with 
cream and maple sugar, or any good sauce. 

GRAHAM FLOUR MINUTE PUDDING Take i water and | 

milk, and when it boils stir in graham flour the same as if water 
alone was used, except that it should be made a little thicker. Cook 
about 10 minutes. Eat with sugar and cream. If you do not happen 
to have cream, jelly makes a nice sauce. Children are very fond of 
this simple pudding. 

ORANGE PUDDING.— Boil 2 cups milk; beat 2 eggs light, add 
3 tablespoons sugar, grate in the yellow of 1 orange, pour in the milk 
hot, and beat 2 minutes; set the pan in a larger pan, filled with 
water, and put in the oven until set; sprinkle with sifted sugar, 
brown on top with a hot shovel, and cool. Eat with cream. 

FRUIT PUDDINGS— Take as many small pudding cloths as 
needed, spread boiled rice on each cloth, and then put on a peeled 
orange, or a pear or apple pared and cored, or stoned cherries, or ber- 
ries; then tie the cloths, having the fruit surrounded by the rice; 
boil till the fruit is cooked. Serve with sugar sprinkled plentifully 
on top, and with sweetened cream or any good sweet sauce. 

OXFORD PUDDING — Take 1 cup rice 1 tablespoon oatmeal, 
3 tablespoons sitgar, 1 teaspoon salt (level), 1 cup milk, 6 cups water; 
stir together, and bake 2 hours in a moderate oven. 

PEACH PUDDING — Drain the liquor from a can of peaches, 
and wet ceraline with it, but do not make it too thick to pour, add 2 
eggs, well beaten, ^ cup sugar, and a little salt; pour this mixture 
into a buttered pudding dish, drop the reserved peaches into the cen 
ter of the mixture, and bake 15 to 25 minutes Good hot or cold, 
and without sauce. 

STEAMED PEACH PUDDING.— Fill a pudding dish with alter- 
nate layers of bread crumbs sprinkled with butter, and sweetened, 
sliced peaches, having a layer of bread crumbs on top; pour over this 
a custard made of 2 cups milk, the yolks of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoons 
sugar; steam it, and serve with our Lombard Sauce. 

POTATO PUDDING — Take 1 lb. of boiled potatoes mashed with 
sweet milk; add ^ lb. white sugar, 6 eggs, and 1 grated lemon; bake 
40 minutes. 



332 PUDDINGS 

PLAIN PLUM PUDDING. 

2 cups bread crumbs. 1 teaspoon of spices. 

1 teaspoon of salt. 2 cups seeded raisins. 

1 cup chojjped suet. 1 cup of flour. 

2 cups milk or water. 2 cups washed currants. 

3 cups sugar. 

Mix all the ingredients to make a stifp batter; if it is too thick, 
add more water, and if too thin, add more flour; »then stir in 2 tea- 
spoons of baking powder, beat it well, tie loosely in a pudding cloth, 
so that it will have room to swell, and boil 4 hours. It can be placed 
in a mold or tin basin, with a plate to cover it, and steamed for the 
same length of time, if more convenient. Serve with lemon pudding 
sauce. 

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. 
3 eggs. i cup citron. 

3 cups flour. I teaspoon spices. 

1 cup chojDped suet. A little nutmeg. 

^ cup candied lemon. 1 cup of raisins. 

.1 cup molasses. 2 even teasj)oons of cream of tartar. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 cup currants. 

1 teasi^oon of soda. 1 cuj) brown sugar. 

1 teaspoon salt. Steam 4 hours. 

PRUNE PUDDING — Stew, stone and chop 1 cup of prunes; 
beat whites of 6 eggs, add 1 cup of granulated sugar, beat well, mix 
with the prunes, and bake in a buttered mold, in slow oven, about 30 
minutes. Serve with whipped cream, mock whipped cream or thin 
custard. 

No. 2. — Stew prunes, stone them, stir into a jplain bread pudding 
and bake — see " Bread Pudding." 

PRINCESS PUDDING.— Scald 4 cups sweet milk; stir in i cup 
of flour and -i teaspoon of salt; when cof)l, stir in 6 welhbeaten eggs; 
bake 20 minutes. Serve with butter and sugar. 

STEAMED PUFF. PUDDING.— Make a batter by sifting 2 tea- 
spoons baking powder and a little salt into 2 cups flour, and add milk 
enough to make it quite soft; butter coffee=^cups and put them in the 
steamer; drop in first a spoonful of batter, then 1 of berries, steamed 
apples, or any fruit or sauce you happen to have; then put in batter 
to fill the cup, and steam 25 minutes. Serve with our berry pud- 
ding^sauce, using the same fruit for the sauce that you have in the 
pudding. 

QUEEN PUDDING.— Use 1 pint of bread crumbs, 1 quart of 
milk, 1 teacup white sugar, yolks of 4 eggs, grated rind of 1 lemon. 
Beat yolks, sugar and lemon together, and stir in the crumbs; bake 



PUDDINGS 333 

until it is of a nice brown color; when done, beat the whites of 4 eggs 
to a stiff froth, with 4 tablespoons of sugar; sj^read fruit jelly or jam 
over the pudding, then cover it with the frosting and set it in the 
oven to brown slightly. To be served cold. No one ever tires of 
this delicious, old=fashioned dessert. 

RAISIN PUDDING.— Cream together 1 cup sugar and ^ cup 
butter; add 2 well beaten eggs, ^ cup milk and 2 cups flour into 
which f teaspoon of baking powder has been sifted; mix all well, 
and add 1 cup seeded raisins which have been sprinkled with a little 
flour; steam 2 hours. Serve with a good hot sauce. Or (2) stir 
chopped and seeded raisins into a common bread pudding and bake; 
see " Bread Pudding." 

RASPBERRY PUDDING — Rub together 1| cups sugar, and ^ 
cup butter; add ^ cup milk, and 2 eggs; stir together well, and add 2 
cups flour with -| teaspoon of baking powder sifted in, and, lastly, 
add 2 cups fresh raspberries. Steam 3 hours. 

RATAFIA PUDDING. 

1 quart of milk. 4 tablespoons of sugar. 

2 eggs. ^ pound of ratafias. 

2 teaspoons of corn-starch. Flavor with cinnamon. 

Scald the milk in a double boiler; beat the sugar, eggs, and 
corn=starch together, and stir into the scalding milk; when it thick- 
ens, pour it into a well-buttered pudding=disli; cover the top of the 
pudding with the ratafias — right side upwards — and bake ^ hour. 
(For directions for making ratafias, see our chapter on " Candy.") 

RHUBARB PUDDING— Butter a basin which will hold 1^ 
pints, and line it with good suet crust rolled out to the thickness of 
I inch. Fill it with rhubarb which has been stewed for ^ hour with 
a little moist sugar and the rind of half a lemon. Cover the pudding 
with pastry, rolled out to the same thickness as the sides, pinch the 
edges securely, tie in a cloth, and boil 2 hours, or until done; then 
turn out carefully, and cut a small opening in the top for the escape 
of the steam. Serve with sweetened melted butter, or cream and 
sifted sugar. 

RICE PUDDING — Use 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon washed rice, 
■^ cup raisins, ^ cup sugar, a little salt and nutmeg. Mix and put to 
bake; stir 4 times to keep rice and raisins mixed; let it bake about 1 
hour, or until the rice is done. Serve cold with cream and sugar. 

A Hint. — It is not generally known that the cheap, broken rice is better for 
puddings than the more expensive article. One tablespoon of this, well washed, 
the usual quantity of milk and sugar, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, with a little 
butter, will make an excellent rice pudding. Bake very slowly. 



334 PUDDINGS 

Rice Pudding No. 2. — Soak f cup rice in milk till soft, then add 4 
cups milk, a pinch of salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar; x)ut in the oven 
and bake very slowly for 2 hours; it should be of the consistency of 
jelly when done. The secret of success with this pudding is to bake 
very slowly, and bake a long time. A cup of seeded raisins is a great 
improvement if added when it is put in the oven. Thick sweet 
cream is the best sauce for it, or sugar and cream mixed. 

Sago and Tapicoa puddings made in the same way are delicious, 
but without any raisins. 

Rice Pudding No. 3. — Use 2 tablespoons rice, 1 quart milk, ^ teacup 
white sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla or lemon; a little salt; scald the rice, 
then add the other ingredients and scatter on top a little butter cut in 
small bits. Bake 2 hours in a slow oven. Pour over it ^ hour be- 
fore it is done ^ teacup cold milk; this will make it creamy. 

ROLY POLY PUDDING.— Use 1 cup chopped suet, 3 cups 
flour, 1 even teaspoon of baking powder, 1 even teaspoon of salt. 
Mix the suet, flour, salt and baking powder together; then wuth a lit- 
tle cold water make a stiff dough; roll out in a long strip, and spread 
it with jam, preserves or fruit, leaving a little space at the edges free ; 
wet the edges and roll up the strip. Dip a pudding cloth in hot 
water; flour it well; put in the pudding, roll, tie up the ends and wind 
it with a string to keep it in place; boil 2 hours. Serve with sweet 
sauce with a trifle of lemon juice. The roly-poly can be baked in a 
buttered pan, if preferred, but without the cloth. 

SPONGE PUDDING.— Use 1 cup butter rubbed into 3 cups 
flour; 1 teaspoon soda stirred in 1 cup molasses; 1 cup sweet milk; ^ 
teaspoon cinnamon, ^ teaspoon nutmeg; 1 cup fruit, if liked; steam 
1^ hours. 

SUET PUDDING. 
1 cup of chopped suet. 1 egg. 

1 cup of seeded raisins„ 1 teaspoon of salt. 

1 cup of molasses. 1 teaspoon of soda. 

1 cup of sour milk. Steam 2 hours. 

3 cups of flour. 

SUET PUDDING No. 2, 
1 cup molasses. ^ cup dried currants. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2| cups flour. 

1 cup suet, chopped fine. ^ teaspoon of soda. 

1 cup of raisins. 

Mix well, add salt and spice to taste, and steam 2 hours. Eat 
with liquid sauce. If suet is objected to, or cannot be obtained, ^ 
cup of butter may be used. Be sure the i^udding is thoroughly done. 
This is a good pudding to follow a picked up dinner, or if the supply 
is a little short, as it is rather substantial. 



PUDDINGS 335 

8TEAMED PUDDING. 

1 cup of molasses. 1 teaspoon soda. 

^ cup butter (scant). 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup sour milk. 2 teaspoons of cinnamon or in- 

1 cup raisins chopped fine. stead of this ^ a nutmeg. 
Steam 2| hours. 3 cups flour. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING.— Soak 1 cup tapioca for 2 hours in cold 
water enough to cover it; if not all absorbed drain off what is left; 
add 1 quart of milk, and soak 2 hours longer; when the tapioca is 
quite soft, beat together 2 tablespoons melted butter and 2 table- 
sjpoons of sugar. Add this to the tapioca with the yolks of 4 eggs 
beaten light; stir well and bake till brown on top; then add the 
whites of the eggs, beaten to a froth with pulverized sugar, and re- 
turn to the oven to brown. Be careful to see that there are no hard 
lumps left. Eat either with or without sauce. 

Sago pudding may be made the same way. 

Rice Pudding can be made the same way, and can be made more 
dainty by adding the juice and grated rind of a lemon to the frosting. 

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING.— Put 1 cup tapioca in 1 quart 
of cold water, and let it soak slowly on the stove until thin like 
starch; have the apples peeled and quartered and in a pan ready to 
bake; season the soaked tapioca with sugar, butter and nutmeg, xDour 
it over the apples, and bake till done. 

COCOANUT TAPIOCA PUDDING.— Soak 3 tablespoons of tap- 
ioca in water over night; then put it in 1 quart of boiling milk and 
boil I hour; beat the yolks of 4 eggs with 1 cup sugar, add 3 table- 
spoons prepared cocoanut, stir it in, boil 10 minutes longer, and pour 
into a pudding dish. Beat the whites of the 4 eggs to a stiff froth, 
stir in 3 tablespoons sugar, put this over the top with a little cocoa- 
nut sprinkled over it, and brown 5 minutes in the oven. 

Tapioca is the starch extracted from the root of a plant which grows in South 
America. It is light and easily digested, but as it is about 83;^ starch it is not very 
nutritious. When used for puddings crushed tapioca is better than that in large 
granules. 

Cassava is the starch from the same root more highly granulated. It is called 
Manioc in Brazil, and Yucca in Peru. 

WHOETLEBEKKY PUDDING. 

2 cups sugar. 6 eggs. 

2 cups bread crumbs. 2 heaping teaspoons baking powder. 

1 quart milk. 1 tablespoon of salt. 

4 cups flour. 

Make to a stiff batter, and mix in 1 quart of whortleberries. Put 
it in a buttered mold, and steam 3 hours. Half this will do for a 
small family. Serve with any liquid pudding sauce preferred. 



336 DUMPLINGS 

DUMPLINGS. 

In putting dumplings of any kind into water to boil, put them 
in one at a time, as they will mix or stick if put in together. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS.— These may be either baked or boiled; if 
baked, they should be made with pastry; if boiled, use a light suet 
crust. In either case pare the apples and scoop out the core, filling 
up the space with sugar and a clove, or some grated lemon peel. 

For baked dumplings make a light p)uff paste, enclose the apples 
in it, making as many as desired, pinch the edges so closely that no 
seam can be seen, and bake 20 minutes in a good oven. Eat with a 
rich pudding sauce, or with maple syrup. 

For boiled dumplings choj) ^ 1^- ^^ef suet very finely, add ^ lb. 
flour, a little salt and baking powder, and mix with water enough to 
give it consistency; roll out twice on the pastry board, enclose the 
apples as for baked dumplings, put them in boiling water, and boil 
fast 1 hour. Drain, and serve with sweet sauce. 

OHEKRY DUMPLINGS. 

^ cup sugar. 1 cup prepared flour, or use flour 

2 cups stoned cherries. and baking powder same as for 

2 heaping tablespoons lard. biscuits. 

2 cups sweet milk. A little salt. 

After rubbing the lard into the salted flour, add the milk, then 
roll out ^ inch thick. Cut into squares, and into the middle of each 
one put 2 spoonfuls of the stoned cherries. Add sugar, and then 
bring the edges together and pinch closely. Bake until done on a 
floured baking=pan, with the joined edges at the bottom. Eat while 
hot. 

HUCKLEBERRY DUMPLINGS.— Use 1 tablespoon lard, 4 cups 
flour, 1 cup milk, 8 teaspoons baking powder. Sift the baking pow- 
der into the flour, work in the lard, and add the milk; when rolled 
out, cut rather larger than biscuit; after putting in the berries close 
the edges tightly, and boil (or steam) 20 minutes. 

JAM DUMPLINGS — Roll out a puff paste, and spread jam 
(raspberry or any other) on it; make into dumplings -and boil till 
done — about 1 hour usually. Serve with a sauce made of | butter to 
I sugar, beaten to a cream. 

STEAMED DUMPLINGS— Pare and quarter nice tart apples, 
place them in a deep dish, adding a little water; make a crust as you 
would for tea biscuit, with sour cream, or rich buttermilk, if you 
have it; if not, use a good baking-powder recipe; roll out about 1 



DUMPLINGS 337 

inch thick, place it over the apples, and steam ^ hour. Serve with a 
sauce made of ^ butter to | sugar, beaten to a cream. 

Fruit Dumplings of any kind can be made in this way, using any 
kind of fruit, either fresh or canned instead of the apples. 

PANDOWDY — Pare, core, and slice thin, sour, juicy apples; 
butter a deep dish and put in a layer of apples, sweeten with 
brown sugar and flavor with lemon peel; strew over it a layer of 
bread crumbs, and bits of butter; repeat alternately till the dish is 
full, finishing with a layer of bread crumbs. Bake till the apples are 
soft. A little cider improves it. To be eaten with sweetened cream. 



DOUGHNUTS AND FRITTERS. 

% I / HE Fat. — The fat for frying doughnuts and fritters may be any 
\\ ' soft fat free from rancidity, which is at hand; pure leaf lard, 
(^ I te for this purpose, was once considered indispensable, but 
soft suet, or the fat trimmed from the outside of fat beef, is 
excellent, combined with lard; also clarified drippings from roasted 
meat, either beef or pork. A small proportion of the hard kidney 
suet of beef may be added, but if hard suet is in excess in frying fat, 
food cooked therein will have a thick, tallowy crust, which is neither 
palatable nor digestible. Cottonseed oil, alone, or in combination 
with a small jiroportion of beef suet is used by some cooks; others 
dislike it. With this, as with some other food preparations, the taste 
may perhaps be acquired. Mutton fat should never be added to the 
frying kettle, or used in any way; as stated elsewhere, the strong odoi 
to which many people have a great aversion, is intensified by reheat- 
ing; besides, it is the hardest of animal fats, and cools too quickly on 
food cooked in it. If black specks adhere to the doughnuts after 
they are fried, put a few slices of raw potato in the fat, and the 
specks will adhere to the potato. If lard or drippings are not per- 
fectly sweet, before putting in any dough put in some slices of raw 
potato and fry them; the potatoes will absorb the rank flavor. A few 
slices of raw potatoes in the kettle while cooking doughnuts will keep 
the odor from permeating the house. 

Potatoes are largely composed of starch and carbon and they purify the fat in 
much the same way that water is purified by charcoal; being very porous, and 
possessing great powers of absorption, they take up the gases and odors, thus puri- 
fying the fat. 

The Kettle — A kettle should be kept for the purpose of frying 
doughnuts and fritters, and one rounded at the bottom, broad, and 
shallow, is the most convenient shape. 

Clarifying Fat — The frying fat must be clarified from time to 
time, as more or less flour falls to the bottom of the kettle whenever 
it is used; the fat can be poured while still warm — not hot — into a 
pan of water, and the settlings scraped from the cake of fat when it 
is cold; a more simple way is to set the kettle away with the fat in it 
to cool, and when next wanted for use set on the fire just long enough 
to start the cake of fat in the kettle; lift it from the kettle with a 
carving fork, and with a knife cut the black from the cake of fat, 
wipe out the kettle with papers and put them in the fire; then return 



DOUGHNUTS, CKULLERS, ETC. 339 

the fat to the kettle and add more if needed. The dirty looking sedi- 
ment is commonly thrown away, but it need not be altogether wasted; 
when a considerable quantity has accumulated it may be clarified by 
the second method described for clarifying fats in our article on fry- 
ing meats, etc. (which see). 

The Dough. — Be careful in shortening all doughs to be fried in fat, 
either for doughnuts or fritters, for if too tender they will absorb the 
frying fat. If shortening is used, eggs must be added and the dough 
made more stiff, to counteract the tendency to soak fat; little or no 
shortening is best for most doughs cooked in fat. The fat must also 
be hot enough for any dough placed in it to rise instantly to the sur- 
face of the fat; this can be ascertained by trying it with a small bit 
of dough, before proceeding with a quantity. Remember that a fre- 
quent cause of trouble is not having the fat hot enough, and we have 
several times alluded to this. Have it so that it gives off a blue 
smoke, as explained for frying meats (which see). 



DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. 

In frying all kinds of doughnuts let them thoroughly brown on 
one side before turning them; in this way they rise thoroughly, and 
are much lighter than if frequently turned while frying, but fry both 
sides well before taking them out. Do not fry so many at once as to 
cause crowding. When done, take them out, let them drain, and 
when cool keep them in an earthen crock. 

Fried cakes keep moist longer when made with brown sugar 
than when made with any other kind. 

The time required to fry is 3 to 5 minutes. 

DOUGHNUTS. {Extra Nice). 
1 cup sour cream. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda (heaping). 

1 cup sugar (heaping). Flour to roll. 

3 eggs. 

Beat yolks and sugar together, add cream, milk, salt, beaten 
whites and flour containing soda. Fry in smoking hot fat. Excel- 
lent. 

EAISED DOUGHNUTS. 

1 cup outter and lard mixed. 1 cup yeast. 

2 cups sugar. 3 eggs, beaten. 
1 cup warm water. Salt and spices. 

Rub the butter and lard into a ({navt of sifted flour, add 1 even 
tablespoon uf sail, and spic-es if liked; pul Ihc water in the flour, 



340 DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. 

then the beaten eggs, then the sugar; now mix all together, and add 

flour enough to mold into a soft dough; let it rise over night, knead 

down again in the morning, let it lie on the moldings 

board until it begins to rise again, then roll out and 

cut in rings or make into twists, and fry in hot fat. 

A cup of washed and dried Zante currants are nice 

in these cakes. 




Zdnte Currants are not really currants at all; they are small 
grapes grown in Zante, which is an island near the western 
coast of Greece. They are cultivated on an immense plain u..- 
der the shelter of the mountains, and when gathered and dried 
in the sun and air they are stored in magazines until ready for 
shipment. Zante produces about 9,000,000 lbs. of these currants zante oubbants. 
annually. Zante currants are rather indigestible. 

PLAIN DOUGHNUTS — Use 1 cup new milk, 1 level teaspoon 
of salt, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder sifted into 2 cups of 
flour; mix all together, and add a little more flour if needed, but the 
cakes are better to be made quite soft. Do not mold the dough but 
place it on the molding^board, flatten the dough down with the 
hands until it is about an inch thick, cut into shape and fry in hot 
fat. Powdered sugar can be dredged over them when served, if 
liked. 

OHIO DOUGHNUTS. — L^se 3 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 2 cups new milk, 
1 teaspoon salt, a little nutmeg, and flour enough to permit the spoon 
to stand ux^right in the mixture; add 2 teasj)oons baking powder and 
beat until very light. Drop by the dessertspoonful into hot fat. 
They will not absorb the fat, and are as digestible as any doughnuts. 

COFFEE DOUGHNUTS — Use one cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon 
of salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of soda; make the flour as 
soft as you can handle it; then make into twists or rings, and fry in 
hot fat. These are not rich but are nice in the morning with coffee. 

CREAM DOUGHNUTS. — Beat 1 cup sour cream, 1 cup mgar 
and 2 eggs together; add 1 teaspoon soda, a little salt andr flour 
enough to roll. 

CRULLERS. 

1 cup butter. 3 eggs. 

2 cups sugar. Spice to laste. 

2 cups sour milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder 

Use flour to stiffen; cut out and fry. 

CAROLINA CRULLERS. 

Butter size of egg. 3 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. Flour enough to roll. 



FKITTERS B41 

FRIED CAKES 

1 large spoon melted butter. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 cups sugar (scant). 1 saltspoon cinnamon. 
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon salt. 

4 eggs, medium sized. Flour to roll. 

FLORIDA FRIED CAKES. 

1 tablespoon shortening. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon salt. 
2 cups sour milk. Flour to roll. 

2 eggs. 

JOLLY BOYS. 

-| cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 

1 egg. 2 cups cornmeal (scalded). 

^ teaspoon of salt. ^ teaspoon soda. 

Drop by tablespoonfuls into smoking hot fat, and fry like 
doughnuts. 



FRITTERS. 

These are composed of batters and doughs of various kinds, 
usually enclosing fruits or sweets of some sort, and are fried in hot 
fat; they are eaten hot, and some sweet sauce or sugar served with 
them. They should be quickly made, and thoroughly beaten. The 
batter should be smooth and thick enough to cling to whatever is 
dipped into it without running off, and the fat should be very hot, in 
fact, it should smoke. Probably more cooks fail on the heat of the 
fat than on anything else, and yet it should not be too hot. When it 
gives off a blue smoke, as we described in our directions for frying 
meats, etc., it is right; or test it by dropping in a teaspoon of the 
batter; if the temperature is right, the batter will quickly rise to the 
surface in a puff ball, sputtering and dancing, and will speedily 
become a light brown. When the fat is right it will not soak into 
the dough, but will make it delightfully crisp, light, and puffy. In 
the introduction to this chapter we explain about the kinds of fat to 
use. Take the fritters out with a skimmer, as soon as they are done, 
dislodge any fat which adheres, pile them in a hot dish, sift sugar 
over them, and serve at once. 

The batter may be simply made, as for griddle cakes, and of 
about the same consistency. If it is allowed to stand an hour or so 
before being used, the starch grains will swell by contact with the 
moisture, and hence it will be lighter. Eggs added to the batter 
make it crisp and delicate, and ensure a good coating over the fruit, 



342 FRITTERS 

etc., enclosed. Baking powder, or cream of tartar and soda, are 
sometimes used when the batter is wanted very light; when shorten- 
ing is used add eggs also, as their albumen quickly coagulates in 
the hot fat, and forms a crust, or film, which prevents the fat from 
soaking in. The best batter is made with the yolk of egg, and just 
before using, the white is beaten to a stiff froth and added also. 
Always add a little salt. A little more flour can be used, making the 
batter a little thicker, for fruit which is very juicy. 

Fritters are quickly made, and can be served for breakfast, lunch- 
eon, tea, or a dessert for dinner, and they are almost invariably rel- 
ished. Hot caramel syrup, or maple syrup, can be served with them, 
or the 6imj)le white syrup made of granulated sugar and a little 
water, while many of the pudding sauces are also suitable. 

The time needed to fry is 3 to 5 minutes. 

FRITTER BATTER (PZam).— Use 2 cups of flour and 2 eggs. 
Beat the eggs and flour together, and add enough sweet milk to 
make a batter of the consistency of griddle cakes; then beat in a 
level teaspoon of salt. This batter is siuqDly made, and cau be used 
for any kind of fritters. 

Batter No. 2. — Mix together ^ cup water or milk, 1 saltspoon of 
salt, 1 tablespoon melted butter,. and the welhbeaten yolks of 2 eggs; 
then beat in enough flour to make a good batter of it. Many cooks 
use 1 tablespoon of olive oil instead of the butter, and prefer it. 
Just before using it beat in the welhbeaten whites of the 2 eggs. If 
it is used for meat, oysters, or clams, 2 teaspoons of vinegar or lemon 
juice will be an improvement; if for fruit, add instead 1 teaspoon of 
sugar. 

APPLE FRITTERS — Peel the apples, and take out the core 
with a core=cutter, cut the ajDples in thick slices, crosswise — this 
makes a ring; sprinkle with sugar and let tl^em lie for an hour; 
then dip each j)iece in batter, and fry until of a light brown color. 
Sprinkle again with sugar and send to the table. 

BANANA FRITTERS.— Cut the bananas in 
slices ^ inch thick, sprinkle with powdered cinna- 
mon, dip in batter, and fry in hot fat. Serve with 
syrup. 

BERRY FRITTERS— Make a batter of 2 eggs 
well beaten, add a gill of cream and a gill of milk 
thickened with a tablespoon of corn=starch; season 
with a little sugar and cinnamon. Put raw straw- 
berries into this batter, and fry them in a pan of hot 




FKITTEKS 843 

fat, a spoonful at a time, Disli them in a pyramid, and sift sugar 
over and between them. 

Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, and other small fruits can be 
made into fritters in this manner, and are delicious. 

BREAD FRITTERS.— Cut stale bread into slices | inch thick, 
and then cut it into small squares. Into 2 cups milk put a piece of 
cinnamon and the rind of a lemon; boilit ^ hour; dip the bits of 
bread in the milk, lay them on a cloth to drain, then dip them in 
beaten egg, and fry a delicate brown in smoking hot fat. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve. Or (2) dip thin slices of yeast 
bread in the plain fritter batter, and fry a delicate brown. Sprinkle 
on powdered sugar, and garnish with jelly. 

CAKE FRITTERS. — Cut rounds, squares or triangles of any kind 
of dry cake, dip them in milk with a little lemon juice added, then 
flour them, and fry in hot fat. 

CARROT FRITTERS — Take 2 boiled carrots, beat them to a 
pulp, add 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons of flour, moisten them with milk or 
cream, add 1 teaspoon sugar, and beat together thoroughly ; drop by 
spoonfuls into smoking hot fat; when done, squeeze a little orange 
juice over them, and sprinkle on pulverized sugar. 

CLAM FRITTERS. — Drain the liquor from the clams, and make 
a fritter batter with it; chop the hard part of the clams, mix them in 
the batter, and drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat. 

CORN FRITTERS.— Boil the corn, cut it from the cob, mix it in 
the fritter batter, and drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat. 

CORNMEAL FRITTERS — To the welhbeaten yolks of 4 eggs 
add 3 cups milk, 2 cups cornmeal, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon 
melted butter, 1 teaspoon salt; mix all thoroughly, and add the well= 
beaten whites of the 4 eggs, and -^ cup flour in which ^ teaspoon 
baking powder has been sifted; drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot 
fat; when done, drain on paper, to absorb the fat. Eat with a sauce 
made of butter and sugar, seasoned with cinnamon. 

CREAM FRITTERS.— Mix 3 cups flour with 2 cups milk; stir in 
6 well^beaten eggs, then 2 teaspoons salt and 2 cups cream ; stir the 
whole just enough to intermix the cream, and fry. The addition of a 
few tender apples, chopped fine, will improve them. 

FRUIT FRITTERS.— Almost every kind of fruit wiU make frit- 
ters. If the fruit is cut up, sprinkled with sugar, and allowed to 
stand 2 or 3 hours before being used, the flavor is improved; a little 



344 FRITTERS 

grated lemon peel can be added also, if desired. Then drain the 
fruit, dip or mix it in batter, and fry in hot fat. Apricots, peaches, 
pears, pineapples, etc., make nice fritters in this way. Canned 
fruit can also be used, and makes nice fritters. 

JELLY OR JAM FRITTERS.— Make a batter of 2 eggs, 1 cup 
of milk, and flour enough to thicken to the consistency of griddle 
cakes; beat in a level teaspoon of salt, and drop in spoonfuls in hot 
fat; fry brown. When well drained, place on each one a bit of jam 
or firm jelly. (Lemon jelly made with gelatine is nice for these 
fritters). 

LEMON FRITTERS.— The lemons must be sliced as thin as 
l^aper, the seeds carefully removed, and then cover them with batter, 
and fry in hot fat. 

Orange Fritters can be made the same way. 

MEAT FRITTERS — Take cold meat of any kind, cut it into 
small pieces, season with pepper and salt, cover with fritter batter, 
aiid fry in smoking hot fat; drain on brown paper and serve. A few 
drops of lemon juice or vinegar on the meat and a little nutmeg 
grated on will be an improvement, or the lemon juice or vinegar can 
be added to the fritter batter. (Se our batter No. 2.) 

Tripe makes good fritters. Make like other meat fritters. 

OYSTER FRITTERS — Drain the liquor from the oysters, and to 

1 cup of this liquor add 1 cup milk, 3 beaten eggs, a little salt, and 
flour enough to make a thin batter; chop the aysters, add them to 
the batter, and drop by the spoonful into smoking hot fat. Serve 
immediately when done. Or (2) boil the oysters until the liquor 
flows; make a batter with the liquor, dip in each oyster whole, and 
fry in smoking hot fat. A little lemon juice or vinegar added either 
to the oysters or the batter will be an improvement. 

PORK FRITTERS — Dip thin slices of fat pork, or breakfast ba- 
con, in batter, and fry in hot fat. 

POTATO FRITTERS.— Use 2 cups mashed potatoes, 1 egg, ^ 
teaspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons flour, into which ^ teaspoon baking 
powder is sifted; make in rolls, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat. 
These are a nice relish for breakfast. 

RAW POTATO FRITTERS.— Grate 4 large raw potatoes, add a 
.little salt and cayenne pepper, and make a rather thick batter by 
adding 2 beaten eggs; drop in hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a light 
brown. 



PRITTEES 345 

RICE FRITTERS.— To 1 cup of boiled or steamed rice allow a 
eggs, and a tablespoon of flour; add a saltspoon of salt, and 1 of 
ground cinnamon; mix thoroughly with the hand, then drop by- 
spoonfuls in hot lard; fry brown. 

SALSIFY FRITTERS— Boil the salsify, mash it, pick out all 
tough fibres, and for each 2 cups of mashed salsify work in 1 table- 
spoon of butter, and then ^ cup of milk and 3 well-beaten eggs; 
thicken with a little flour, make into round cakes, dredge with flour 
and fry in smoking hot fat; or the batter may be fried like griddle 
cakes. 

VEGETABLE FRITTERS — Boil the vegetables until tender, 
and either cut in slices, dip them in the fritter batter and fry, or 
chojp fine, mix the pieces into fritter batter, and drop it by spoonfuls 
into smoking hot fat and fry a delicate brown. Celery, parsnips, and 
other vegetables can be used. 

VARIOUS FRITTERS. — An ingenious cook can easily devise va- 
rieties by using different flavors. Use vinegar or lemon juice for 
meat, oyster or clam fritters, and cinnamon, nutmeg, orange juice, 
jellies, etc., in various combinations, and also vary the sauces used. 
As almost any meat, fruit or vegetables can be used for fritters, the 
varieties that can be produced are almost endless. 

CANNELONS. — These are made of puff paste rolled very thin, 
and cut in pieces about 2 inches wide and 6 inches long; place upon 
each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, 
and fold the paste over twice to prevent the escape of the jam while 
frying; slightly press the edges of the cannelons, and fry in smoking 
hot fat until a nice brown. Lay them on blotting paper to absorb su- 
perfluous fat, and sprinkle with sugar before serving. Cannelons 
can be made with any kind of fresh fruit, and are delicious. 



CAKE. 

For Cooking in High Altitudes, see page 358* 

\ I / HE 4 corner-stones of cake making are flour, sugar, buttei 
W [ and eggs. By combining these in varying proportions and 
Q^^te using a few minor accessories, an endless variety of attrac- 
tive and delicious cakes are obtained. 

In measuring for cake the cups, if more than 1 is used, must be of 
exactly the same size, for the cook must remember that success is 
more apt to follow accuracy of measurement. Make the fire the first 
thing, and while the oven is heating, measure and place on the cook- 
ing table all the materials for the cake, and have at hand all the 
implements (forks, spoons, cup, beaters,) which will be required in 
making it. 

Materials for cake. — These should always be of the best quality, 
as cake is a luxury, and if served at all should be made of the best 
ingredients. Have everything perfectly dry, as dampness in the 
materials is almost certain to produce heaviness in the cake. It 
is best to have each ingredient prox3erly prepared before beginning 
to mix the cake, and in cold weather warm them to a uniform tem- 
perature and they will mix better. While all the materials should 
be good, however, many cooks are needlessly extravagant in their 
use of butter and eggs, and we commend to our readers the econom- 
ical recipes which we have gathered together in this, as in other de- 
partments of the book. 

Butter used in cake making should be free from rancidity. In 
cold weather let it stand near the stove to soften, but most cake mak- 
ers agree that it should not melt. It must be worked and beaten 
with the sugar until it is thoroughly creamed. Many cooks use 
moderately salted butter without washing, as the small amount of 
salt which it contains adds to the flavor of the cake, but if it is ex- 
cessively salted the washing process is indispensable. To wash 
butter it must be thoroughly worked with the hands in a deep pan 
or pail of water until it is soft and pasty, changing the water once 
or twice if needed. In cold weather the water may be slightly 
warmed, but in summer it should be cold. 

Sugar should always be dry and well powdered. For delicate 
cakes, pulverized or the finest grades of granulated sugar should be 
used. Some kinds of fruit cake have a fine flavor imparted by using 
a good quality of unrefined brown sugar, and brown sugar is suita- 



CAKE 347 

ble for most dark cakes. Cake is made heavy by using very coarse 
granulated sugar. Lumpy sugar should always be crushed and 
sifted. 

For many of the finer cakes cofPee "A" sugar produces better re- 
sults than any other kind. 

Molasses for cooking should be the rich, dark New Orleans or 
West India molasses. Light colored syrups are sometimes made of 
glucose and are inferior, being less sweet than that drained from 
crude sugar, these grades being the viscid, brown liquid which drains 
from sugar during its formation. In baking cakes remember that 
those containing molasses burn quicker than others. 

Flour. — Pastry Flour (that is " old process" or St. Louis flour) is 
much the best for all kinds of cake. It contains more starch and less 
gluten than the new process flour. A trifle less flour (about ^ less) 
must be used if it is new process. Be sure the flour is dry; sift it be- 
fore using, and if it is cold, warm it slightly. Measure it after be- 
ing sifted. The baking powder or cream of tartar should be sifted 
into it. 

Eggs will beat more quickly in cold weather if they are placed for 
a short time in warm water before breaking them. In summer put 
them in cold water for a short time. Break each egg separately into 
a cup to make sure that it is not stale; not only look to see if it is 
good but test it also by smelling. An egg that is the least tainted 
will spoil the cake or anything else in which it is used. The quick- 
est way to separate the yolk and the white is to carefully break them 
into a plate and then lift out the yolk with the fingers, allowing the 
white to fall between them. If even the smallest amount of yolk 
gets mixed into the whites they will not froth. Beat eggs in an 
earthen dish. The whites and yolks are best beaten separately as it 
takes longer to beat the whites. When beaten separately, if the cook 
has no assistant, the yolks should be beaten first and until they are a 
light lemon color, and strain them if the cake is fine; then beat the 
whites until they are too stiff to fall out of an inverted dish. If the 
whites become liquid again they cannot afterwards be made light, so 
do not stop beating till they are light and stiff. The eggs should be 
put in a cool place till wanted to use. When only the whites are 
used, the yolks, if unbroken and kept covered, will keep 2 or 3 days, 
but it is better to use them at once, working them into custards, etc. 
The whites of eggs will beat quicker if a pinch of salt is added, and 
they also beat more easily in a cool place or in a draught. If both 
yolks and whites are strained through a sieve before beating them 
they will beat smoother and easier. 



U8 CAKE 

The object in beating eggs is to force in air. The more and quicker they are 
beaten the better, up to the point where the albumen forms a thin film around all 
the air bubbles it will hold — millions of them. More beating after that only serves 
to break the film and let the air escape, and then the c<rgs will faU. If allowed to 
stand after being beaten, their own weight will break the thin films, the air will es- 
cape, and they will fall. Because of the oil contained in yolks they will, if added 
to beaten whites, cause the films to break, and so let out the air. This is the prin- 
ciple involved. 

Milk when called for in our recipes, always means sweet milk, un- 
less otherwise specified. Some cooks use water instead of milk in 
even the best cakes, and water can be substituted without detriment, 
so that if you wish to make a cake calling for milk, and you are out 
of it, you can still make the cake and use water instead. 

A hint. — For cakes, jpuddings, bread, etc., skimmed milk an- 
swers as well as rich milk, and the cream can be saved and used for 
coffee, desserts, etc. 

Spices for cake should be of the best quality. 
Cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and pepper are 
much nicer if bought in bulk, and freshly 
ground at home, when needed. 

Cinnamon. — This is the inner bark of a tree, a spe- 
cies of the laurel family which grows to the height of 20 
or 30 feet, and is found ii. Ceylon, Java, etc. " Clove 
OiV is distilled from the leaf. Cinnamon contains a fra- 
grant essential oil. It is best to br.y it in the stick 
or roll; pound it in a mortar, and sift it fine for use. cinnamon. 

Fruit is best prepared the day before. It should be dry when 
used. Leave out a little flour for the purpose and roll the fruit in it 
just before putting it in the cake. With raised cake spread fruit 
lightly on top, pressing it in a little, but do not beat it in or it will 
sink to the bottom. 

Almonds should be blanched by being put into boiling water; 
leave a few minutes and then rub off the skin; then throw into cold 
water to preserve their color. If they are pounded, a little white of 
egg or water should be added every 2 or 3 minutes to prevent their 
oiling. Or cut them up and roll with a rolling pin on a table or 
marble slab, spreading a little sugar on first. If not pounded or 
rolled they should be cut into thin slices or divided lengthwise. To 
shred almonds, cut them with a sharp knife into fine strips length- 
wise, 

Citron should be sliced very thin, and the pieces should not be 
too large. 

A Cocoanut should have the milk drawn out through a hole cut in 
the end; crack it and take i\\e meat out (having previously loosened 




CAKE 349 

it by pounding it all over) and dry for a few hours in a cool open ov- 
en; then grate and use. If any is left it can be kept for several 
weeks, if necessary, by sprinkling it with sugar and keeping it in a 
cool, dry, airy place. 

Currants should be washed in warm water, changing it 2 or 3 
times, and rubbing them well with the hand. Then drain them, 
spread out on a cloth, and pick out all bad ones, sticks, grit, etc., 
and dry them in the sun; an oven unless very slow will harden them. 
It is well to prepare several pounds at a time, and keep them in glass 
jars English currants are ax3t to be "gritty;" they may be made to 
'■plump," or fill out, by pouring boiling water over them, after which 
dry them. Currants are neither so wholesome nor nutritious as rai- 
sins. 

Dates aro prepared by separating them from each other; then put 
them into lukewarm water, shake them about for 2 or 8 minutes, and 
drain. Now take out the stones; this can be done with the fingers as 
a rule, but if they are very hard use a sharp knife. Then rinse them 
very carefully again, and drain them very thoroughly. 

Raisins can be stoned more easily if boiling water is poured over 
them and left on 5 or 6 minutes, as that loosens the seeds. Pick out 
stems and defective raisins. For light fruit cake they may be chop- 
ped, but not too fine. Have them perfectly dry when used, and 
dredge flour over them. 

Baking powder, Cream of Tartar and Soda. — Cake should not 
be made overflight with baking powder. A less quantity is needed, 
in proxjortion to the flour, than for biscuits, which are made light and 
comparatively dry, as they are to be eaten soon after being made, but 
cake is made to keep for some time — a week or longer. It should of 
course be light, hut fine-grained and moist. The rule for biscuits is 
about 3 rounded teaspoons of baking powder to a quart of flour; for 
that amount of flour in cake, made with eggs properly beaten, 1 tea- 
spoon of baking powder is sufficient. The baking powder or cream 
of tartar should be well sifted into the flour before mixing that into 
either cake, biscuits, or bread. Dissolve the soda into a little milk 
or water. 

Cream of tartar and soda can be used instead of baking powder 
in any recipe, or vice versa, but as all baking powder contains some 
starch or flour to keep it dry (see our recipe for making it) it is not 
quite as strong as the pure cream of tartar and soda, so that about -^ 
moi'c baking powder is required than of the cream of tartar and soda 
combined. The usual i^roportion for 1 quart of flour for bread or 
biscuit is 1 teaspoon soda and 2 teaspoons cream of tartar; or 3 



350 CAKE 

rounded teaspoons baking powder; and a convenient rule is 1 level 
teaspoon of baking powder to 1 cup flour, but cake, when lightened 
with eggs, requires less than -| of this. 

In making rich fruit cakes eggs alone are used, without any bait- 
ing powder, or cream of tartar and soda, to make them light. 

The 2 alkalies used in cooking are soda and potash or their derivatives. Pot- 
ash is found in all fertile soils, and is essential to jjlants, and all land plants when 
burned yield potash. When calcined and purified it yields pearlash. Salerahis is 
a kind of pearlash derived by subjecting it to the action of carbonic acid gas. 
The potash compounds are now little used. 

Soda is obtained from sea*salt or marine plants. It is called sal'noda when 
unpurified. It is combined with 1 part of carbonic acid to form the carbonate, 
and 2 parts of carbonic acid to form the bicarbonate of soda, or the baking soda 
ordinarily used. Soda should ahvays be thoroughly pulverized before it is meas- 
ured so that there are no lumps in it. Strong alkalies are powerful poisons and 
must be counteracted or rendered inert before entering the system. This is done 
by the acids used. The too free use of soda or saleratus in cooking is injurious to 
the health and is recognized and commented on by good medical authorities. 
The alkali particularly affects the coatings of the stomach and bowels and causes 
indigestion and bowel complaint, sometimes ending in acute inflammation. 
Children are often injured by it. Bicarbonate of soda contains twice as much 
carbonic acid as common washing soda, but if it is dissolved in hot water, or 
heated in any way, this extra gas is driven off, and it is at once reduced to the 
level of common washing soda. For this reason soda should never be dissolved in 
hot water; tejjid water may be used, but cold water or milk is best. It will dis- 
solve as thoroughly in cold as in hot water, although not as quickly; or it can be 
thoroughly mixed and sifted into part of tlie Hour, and will then be incorporated 
so as to leave no yellow spots. If used in n^olasses, dissolve it in as little water as 
possible, beat it into the molasses till it foams, and then add to the other materials 
at once. 

Cream cf Tartar is an acid obtained from crude tartar, or argol, a substance 
deposited on the sides of casks during the fermentation of wine. It is purified 
by using charcoal and clay, and crystalized. When cream of tartar unites with the 
Ibicarbonate of soda, carbonic acid gas is liberated, and the minute bubbles per- 
meate the mass of dough and make it ritse, while the residue forms a salt known as 
Rochelle salt. This is a well=known cathartic, but is not harmful in the small 
quantities thus formed. The acid and the alkali should, however, be so propor- 
tioned as to neutralize each other. They then form what is known as a neutral 
salt. If the acid is in excess the salt will be acid, and if the alkali is in excess it 
will be alkaline. Experiment shows that 1 level teaspoon of soda is neutralized 
by 2 full teaspoons of cream of tartar — that is, by a little more than 2 parts of 
cream of tartar to 1 part of soda; and these are the proportions in which they 
should be used. 

Muriatic acid is sometimes used instead of cream of tartar, and when acted on 
by soda it leaves a residue of common salt, which is unobjectionable. It acts so 
quickly, however, that it is not adapted to domestic use, as much of the gas will 
escape before it performs any work, but it is sometimes used in bakeries. 

When sour milk is used, the lactic acid it contains acts on the soda the same as 
ttie acid cream of tartar, and so liberates gas. Tlie proportion to use is 1 teaspoon 



CAKE 351 

of soda to 1 pint of sour milk, or y^ teaspoon to a cup, but it should be remem- 
bered that very sour milk contains more acid than that which is just turning, so 
that some judgment is needed in guaging the proportions. In recipes where 
molasses is used, milk which tastes or smells sour, hut is not thick, can be used as 
sweet milk. 

Molasses furnishes another acid which answers the same purpose as that of the 
sour milk and cream of tartar, acting on the alkaline soda and liberating carbonic 
acid gas. 

HOW TO MIX CAKE — Probably, as many cakes are wasted 
through imiDroper mixing, as by any other cause, unless it is insuffi- 
cient beating. In mixing cakes in which butter is used proceed in 
the following order: 

1. Cream the butter. If it is very cold, warm without melting 
it. (For the method of creaming butter, see '' Puddings.") 

2. Add the sugar and beat it thoroughly. If a very large 
amount is used, part may be beaten into the eggs. 

3. Add the seasoning — spices, lemon^juice, flavoring extracts, 
etc., as given in each recipe, and incorporate them well with the but- 
ter and sugar. 

4. Add the beaten yolks of eggs, and beat all well together. 
6. Add the milk. 

6. Add the flour, which should be already thoroughly mixed 
with the baking powder. Stir it in, a little at a time, or add a little 
flour and milk alternately, stirring continually, and now heat long 
and vigorously to fill it with air and make the cake smooth and 
fine-grained. 

7. Add the beaten whites of eggs. 

8. Add the fruit, if used, which should be already dusted with 
Qour. Make fruit cakes a little stiffer with flour than those without 
Eruit, 

Sift baking powder and cream of tartar into the flour. Usually 
the soda is dissolved in the milk or water, but sometimes it is sifted 
into the flour. 

Beat continuously, from beginning to end of the process. Place 
the dough in the prepared cake4ins and send to the oven as soon as 
possible, when finished, so that the air which has been beaten in 
(and which, by exx^anding, makes it light) may not escape. 

Always work cake together with a spoon, if possible, but when a 
large quantity of fruit cake is made, it is necessary to use the hand 
in order to mix it properly. 

For sponge cakes (which are those made without butter or short- 
ening) proceed as follows: (1) Beat the yolks. (2) Gradually add 
the sugar and beat well. (3) Add the flavoring and water, if used 



B52 CAKE 

(4) Add the well=beateii whites of eggs. (5) Sift in the flour and 
carefully fold it in. After adding the flour, sponge cakes, unlike 
other cakes, should not be beaten. If beaten like other cake, after 
adding the flour, sponge cake will be tough and unwholesome, but if 
after folding in the flour, the cake is put directly into the oven it will 
be tender and digestible. The lightness depends on the quantity of 
air beaten into the egg. Less beating is required when soda and 
cream of tartar are used, but the cake is not as good. 

Always use an earthen bowl or pan, for mixing cake. Butter 
and sugar, if worked to a cream in tin, is apt to be discolored. Beat 
the eggs with a silver or wooden spoon. As a rule (in cold weather, 
always), pour hot water into the mixing^bowl to warm it; then wipe 
dry. This facilitates the blending of the butter and sugar, and is the 
first operation. 

If a large quantity of cake is to be made, the cook should have 
an assistant; for a small quantity, and if the cook is alone, every- 
thing in the way of ingredients or utensils should be ready at hand 
on the cooking table, so that there will be no delay. Much depends 
on mixing the cake rapidly, and immediately placing it in the oven. 
Those who will bear the above rules in mind can handle any cake, so 
far as the mixing is concerned. 

Beating and Stirring. — There is a good deal of difference between 
beating and stirring. Stirring merely mixes the different ingredi- 
ents together, while beating carries in "air and thoroughly distributes 
it through the mass, and in baking, this air expands and makes the 
cake light. Unless the air is well beaten into the dough, no after 
attention will mdke it light and wholesome. After putting in the 
beaten white of egg, too much subsequent beating will let the air 
escape and so be a detriment. It is heating, not stirring, which is 
needed throughout the process. 

Cake Baked in Paper. — If there is danger that cake will rise above 
the top of a pan and run out, or if you 
have a large cake and the pan is too 
small to hold it, the cake can be baked 
in paper as shown in the accompanying 
engraving. Make the paper case out of 
thick glazed paper, coat it thickly with 
butter, put in the cake, and the paper 
will not burn in a moderate oven. 

Cake Pans — Layer cakes are baked 
in thin cakes in tins made for the pur- 
pose, sometimes called jelly=cake tins. 
Loaf cakes are baked in deep bread tins, 





CAKE 353 

or hoops and large pans made for the purpose. Flat loaves are usu- 
ally baked in the old-fashioned brick shaped tins and are 1 or 2 
inches in thickness. 

The cake pans (with a few exceptions found among the recipes) 
should be well buttered, and clean, thick manilla or heavy writing 
paper fitted to the bottoms of the pans, and for rich fruit or wedding 
cakes which require baking for hours, 3 or 4 thicknesses will be a 
safe^guard against burning the bottoms of the cakes. Butter well 
the top sheet next the cake. It is not necessary to line the sides and 
ends of the pans if they are well buttered; a knife slipped around the 
cake will easily detach it. 

In baking layer cakes the pans are not usually papered to pre- 
vent them from sticking, but when paper is not used butter the pans 
well, throw in a handful of flour and shake it .well over the inside of 
the pan; then droj) it, bottom side upward, to remove all the flour 
which does not adhere to the butter. If layer cakes do not easily 
remove from the pans, leave them for a few moments bottom side 
upwards, turned on a cloth, and the steam from the cakes will soon 
cause them to drop. If buttered paper is used put it in buttered 
side up, and let it overlap the sides about 1 inch to assist in lifting 
out the cake. 

If a cake pan with a tube in the center is used the cake will 
bake more evenly. Many substitutes are devised by those who are 
without such pans, such as a lamp-chimney, glass bottle or paper 
tube. They should be greased, and placed in the center of the pan 
before the batter is poured in. Something weighted down is best, 
like a tumbler or bottle filled with sand. 

The Oven and Baking. — While cake is being made there should be 
no other cooking done on the stove, for as success depends very 
much on the baking, the cake maker should constantly watch and 
have absolute control of the fire. Make the fire the first thing, 
and while the oven is heating mix and prepare the cakes. 

In the absence of a thermometer, a few rules are here given for 
testing the heat of the oven, but as every stove or range bakes a 
little differently from others, the cook must learn by practice the 
proper heat required for different kinds of cake (1) Put white 
writing pai3er in the oven, and if it turns to a dark yellow color 
— not brown — in five minutes, the oven is of the right temperature 
for most cakes. (2) Place a little flour on a tin plate, and set it in 
the oven; if it turns a dark yellow in 5 minutes the heat is right, 
(3) Hold the hand in the oven and count 12. If you cannot do this 
the oven is too hot. 23 



354 CAKE 

Small cakes require a quick oven when they are first put in, to 
make them rise, but the heat should not be increased after they have 
begun to bake. Large cakes should be put into a more moderate 
oven, in order that they may be well done in the middle before 
they are over==done on the outside. 

Cake will not be light if the oven is too cold at first, or if it is 
too hot and bakes the cake too quickly. The oven is too hot if it 
browns the cake before it rises. Cake should first rise at the edge, 
the middle should come up, crack a little, then settle back and the 
cracks close. Too much flour has been used if it rises in the cen- 
ter the most, cracks, and remains up. Most loaf cakes require an 
oven about the same as bread, but layer cakes are best baked quickly 
and need a brisk fire. 

For all cake the temperature should be even. For this reason 
avoid stirring the fire or crowding on heat during the process 
of baking, and if the fire is replenished add a little fuel at a time to 
keep the heat uniform. If the oven is too hot, slip one of the 
stove lids partially ofP for a little while, thus checking the draft. 

If the oven bakes too rapidly on the bottom, an inverted drip- 
ping-pan may be placed in it, or if required, the bottom of the 
oven can be covered with hard=baked bricks. If it bakes too 
rapidly at the top, placing a thin hard^wood board, or a thick piece 
of paste^board on the top grate, over the cakes, is much better than 
covering the cakes with paper, which is likely to interfere with the 
crust as the cake rises. Open the oven as little as possible, and 
do not let a draft of cold air strike the cakes or they will fall, and 
do not move them till they " set " or brown a little on top. 

Thin cakes (flat loaves) may be turned in the oven, if neces- 
sary, after baking 10 minutes; thick loaves of rich cake should not 
be moved in less than 20 or 30 minutes, and then the turning should 
be very gently done or they may be heavy in the center. The old 
" test " for cake was to insert a piece of clean broom=straw or a fine 
knitting-needle free from rust, and if the cake was done it would 
come out free from dough; another test is to hold the cake to the 
ear and listen closely; if done it will be silent; if there is the least 
noise return it at once to the oven. Another sign is its settling down 
a little and shrinking from the pan. 

Fruit Cake — It is better to steam fruit cake 3 hours and then 
transfer it quickly to a well heated oven and bake 1 hour, than to 
rely on baking alone. It is also a good plan to allow fruit cakes to 
stay in the oven until the fire dies down, after they are baked, plan- 
ning to bake them the latter part of the day, and leaving until even- 
ing. 



CAKE 355 

Gingerbread — Mix soft gingerbreads as soft as they can be han- 
dled, and keep the molding-board well floured to prevent the dough 
from sticking. Use New Orleans molasses as we explained for other 
cake. Watch the oven closely, as molasses cakes burn more easily 
than others. If, before rolling out the dough, it gets too stifP, set it 
before the fire. Lemon or orange flavor can be added when desired, 
and many think it an improvement, and the same with raisins, fruit, 
etc. Ginger can be replaced by other spices, like cinnamon and 
nutmeg, by those who prefer their flavor to ginger. Yolks of eggs 
improve gingerbread even when not prescribed in the recipe; and 
yolks left from other cooking can be worked into gingerbread to 
advantage; 2 yolks equal one egg, and can be so used for this 
purpose. 

EXTKACTS AND FLAVOKINGS. 

These are often adulterated. Many of them can be easily 
and successfully made at home, and much cheaper than to 
buy them, while their purity will then be assured. In making 
extracts use deodorized alcohol always. If the oils used are not 
pure and fresh they will spoil the extract by giving it a tur- 
pentine taste. If a little extract is dropped on anything after it is 
baked, less will be needed, because heat partially destroys the 
flavor. It is therefore better not to add extracts to anything while 
hot. 

Essence of Allspice — Add to a wine=glass of 

strong spirits, 1 drachm of the oil of allspice. 

This is used, 2 or 3 drops at a time, for puddings, 

soups, etc. 

Allspice is the popular name given to Pimento or 
Jamaica peppeb. It is the berry of a tree (the Pimenta Offi- 
cinalis) -which grows in the West Indies and South America, 
and attains a height of 15 to 20 feet. The berries are 
picked green and dried in the sun, when they become black. 
Pimento contains about 4 per cent of an aromatic pungent 
oil much like cloves. It is a mild, agreeable and innocent 
spice. allspice. 

Almond. — Crush 1 cup of the kernels of peach stone, and soak 
them in 2 cups alcohol. In using, allow 1 teaspoon of the extract 
for 1 quart of cake dough or custard. The flavor is very much like 
almonds. 

Bedford Flavoring. — Put into a bottle 3 drops of peppermint, the 
same of oil of rose, and -^ cup deodorized alcohol; shake well, and 
keep corked. 

Essence of Celery — Soak for 12 or l-I days ^ oz. of celery seeds in 




356 CAK£. 

^ j)iiit of brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of souj^ equal to a 
head of celery. 

Cherry and Plum. — The kernels of cherry and plum stones, steeped 
in brandy, make a nice flavoring liquid for tarts, etc. 

Citronelle. — Take the grated rind of 1 orange and 1 lemon i^eel, 
rub them to a pulp, and add ^ of a nutmeg grated; add 1 cup water 
and 6 whole cloves, and gently boil 2 or 3 minutes; then strain, and 
add 1 cup sugar, and boil to a thin syrup; keep it in a bottle. 

Coffee. — Infuse ^ lb. of the best ground and roasted coffee, in 1 
pint alcohol. 

Curacoa. — This is nothing but a tincture of the Curacoa orange 
peel, sweetened and flavored with essential oils. Orange juice can 
be used in its place for flavorings; or orange essence, tinctured with 
cinnamon, mace or cloves. 

Laural Flavoring. — Take an earthen bowl, and break into it 7 or 8 
bay leaves, and add 4 cloves and ^ of a nutmeg grated; then add ^ 
cup of water and steep for a few minutes on the stove in a basin of 
liot water, and covered with a saucer; now strain, add 2 tablspoons 
of sugar, and when cold add ^ cup deodorized alcohol. KeeiJ 
bottled for use. 

Lemon. — Put lemon peel, cut into small pieces, into a bottle, add 
alcohol enough to cover it, cork, and set it in a warm place 5 or 6 
days, until the alcohol extracts the essential oil from the rind. It 
can be strengthened by adding oil of lemon, (about ^ oz. to an 8 oz. 
bottle) or weakened by adding more alcohol. It is easily made, 
cheap and good. 

Orange extract is made in the same way as the lemon. 

Maraschino. — This, when genuine, is made from the kernel of the 
Marasca cherry, which is grown only in Dalmatia. It is often made 
from the oil of bitter almonds, blended with oils of cinnamon, rose= 
water, etc. A similar flavor can be made as follows: Infuse ^ lb. 
of kernels of cherries (bruised), in 1 quart of alcohol for 6 days; 
add 1 drachm of oil of maraschino, and 1 lb. of white sugar, made 
into a syrup by boiling it in | quart of water down to a pint; strain 
through a fine sieve, and bottle for use. Make | or ^ the quantity if 
desired. 

Noyau — This is made from white brandy and bruised bitter al- 
monds. It contains a large proportion of prussic acid derived 
from the bitter almonds. The best comes from Martinique, but it 
is expensive and often imitated. Make thus: Infuse some fresh 
young peach leaves in whisky for a couple of days; then strain the 
infusion and mix with clarified syrup when cold. With age it 
will nearly equal the genuine. 



CAKE 357 

Ratafias. — This is the name given to spirituous liquors flavored 
with the kernels of various fruits, such as peaches, cherries, apricots, 
etc., used as flavoring for sweet dishes. Although delicious when 
used sparingly, they are unpleasant or oven poisonous if used to 
excess. Peach or apricot leaves infused in alcohol can be used in- 
stead of ratafia for flavoring pudding. The ratafia cakes are fla- 
vored with almonds. 

Cherry Ratafia.— Take 1 lb. Morrella cherries with the kernels 
bruised, 1 pint proof spirits, -^Ib. sugar; let it soak 2 weeks, and 
strain through flannel. 

Currant Ratafia. — Take -| cup black currant juice, 2 grains cin- 
namon, 2 grains cloves, 2 grains peach kernels, 1 pint brandy, 6 oz. 
white sugar; let stand 2 weeks, and strain through flannel. 

Rose Extract — Let rose leaves soak in alcohol till the essential 
oil is extracted (about a week); then strain, and add about -| drachm 
of otto of roses to 1 pint of the extract. 

Tea Flavoring. — Take about 4 teaspoons of the best black tea, 
crush it and put it into a bowl (it is a good plan to mix 2 or 3 differ- 
ent kinds); pour on about f cup of freshly boiled water, and boiling 
hot; cover it with a saucer, and let it steep 10 or 12 minutes; then 
strain through cloth and use. 

Vanilla. — Cut up 5 or 6 vanilla beans, pods and all, put them in 
a pint bottle, fill with alcohol, and in a few days the alcohol will 
extract the essential oil. Equal parts of vanilla and tonka beans 
can be used, and a very good flavoring extract produced. The tonka 
beans should be soaked in warm water till the skin can be rubbed 
off, and then both should be cut in small pieces. 

Vanilla sugar is prepared by cutting up the pods, putting 
them in a mortar with 10 or 12 times as much sugar, and pounding 
fine; then pass it through a fine sieve, pound again if necessary, and 
keep in a bottle tightly corked. Or the beans 
can be cut up, put in a jar, covered with the 
sugar, and covered tightly. Use the sugar as 
needed, adding more as long as the beans fla- 
vor it. 

Syrup of vanilla is simple syrup flavored 
with essence of vanilla. 

The vanilla bean is the fruit of a plant (an orchid) 
indigenous to Mexico, Peru. Brazil, etc. The fruit is cyl- tonka bean. 

indrical in shape and is filled with small, black, oily 

seeds. Its odor is due to the presence of benzoic acid, and is so powerful that it i.- 
said to intoxicate those who climb the trees to gather it. Vanilla is not suitabU 
for flavoring food for invalids because of its medicinal qualities. It is a >j(Mit!( 
stimulant and promotes digestion. The Mexican beans are the best. 




358 CAKE 

The tonka beans are the seeds of the Dipterus otiorata, which is a native of 
Guiana. The odor comes from a volatile oil which they contain. 

Rose Water — This can be prepared by puttinL^- a large pinch of 
carbonate of magnesia, and 4 drops of kissaulik otto of rose into 2 
pints of pure water; then filter through fine muslin or filter paper. 
If the otto is good it will make a fine rose water, and will keep in- 
definitely. 

Orange Flower Water. — This can be prepared the same way, using 
4 drops of oil of neroli Begarade, instead of the otto of rose. 

To Grate Lemon Peel. — Lemon peel gives a different flavor from 
any extract. There is a right and wrong way to grate it. The 
flavor comes from an essential oil found only in the yelloio rind at 
the surface. The white part underneath is bitter, contains no lemon 
flavor, will curdle milk or cream, and is objectionable. Therefore 
grate a lemon carefully, aiming to remove all the yellow surface, hut 
no more. Begin at the end, turn the lemon round as it is grated, 
and work evenly, and it can be easily and smoothly done. This 
gives the zest as it is called. 

Orange peel can be grated the same way. Either can be used 
for sherbets, cakes, puddings, etc. They can be kept on hand for 
use by mixing them with powdered sugar, (use 4 parts sugar to 1 
part grated peel) and keep in tightly corked l^ottes. 

COOKING IN HIGH ALTITUDES. 

In all high altitudes the rule is to use less butter and sugar, and 
more flour and eggs. If too much butter is used in such regions the 
cake will fall, so that very rich cakes cannot be made there. The 
greater the elevation the more difficulty is experienced. Cakes 
having no butter like sponge cake, are easily made in high altitudes. 
(See also our " Denver cake.") The filling for layer cakes can be 
made quite rich in such regions, if desired. 

The reason for the foregoing rule appears to be this: The object in beating eggs is to 
fill them with air, which the tenacious albumen of the egg holds, and carries into the cake, 
but in high altitudes the air thus incorporated is much lighter than at sea level, and the cake 
will fall unless it is "held up," so to speak, by a stiff batter; hence the rule is to "Double 
the flour, or divide the egg, and useless butler." It is found in these regions that powdered 
sugar works better than granulated. At an altitude of 6,000 feet above sea level, for an ordinary 
cake recipe use only one-half as much sugar, and from one-fourth to one-half as much butter 
as the recipe calls for. At that altitude not over one-half cup of butter can be used, as a rule, 
in any cake. This rare atmosphere is very dry, and quickly dries cake and bread. These 
should be kept in a close box, in which vessels of water are placed to keep the air moist Owing 
to this dryness of the air, however, meats will keep much longer than in damper climates. The 
effect of light air on boiling water we have explained on page 16. It is difficult to cook anything 
by boiling at all, above what is known as " the timber line." Eggs must be boiled 10 minutes to 
even be "soft" on Pike's Peak 



LAYEE CAKES 359 

LAYER CAKES. 

Let layer cakes cool on some flat surface, like an inverted jelly- 
tin, rather than on an uneven surface, like a plate. An inverted jelly- 
tin also makes a good base on which to build up a jelly cake, and it 
should be left there till cold. Those with a little experience can 
vary the fillings for jelly cakes and make many attractive combina- 
tions, but the novice will best adhere to her recipes closely. 

For Time to Bake see " Loaf Cakes." 

FILLINGS. 

Layer cakes, when analyzed, will be found to consist of a cake 
baked in layers (different recipes being often quite similar) and then 
various fillings are used. We give an exceptionally full list of differ- 
ent fillings which are suitable for use with any good recipe for layer 
cake, and many varieties are thus easily produced. 

ALMOND FILLING — Use 1 cup thick sour jam, 1 teaspoon 
vanilla, 1 lb. almonds, blanched and chopped fine, and sugar to taste 
or make sweet. Or, (2) Stir blanched and chopped almonds into 
whipped or mock whipped cream, and spread between layers. Or, 
(3) Mix chopped almonds into the icing filling given below. 

APPLE FILLING.— Cook 2 large apples until soft; then add 1 
cup sugar, the well^beaten yolk of 1 egg, and the juice and grated 
rind of 1 lemon; cook all, about 5 minutes, and spread between the 
layers while warm. Or, (2) Mix slices of apple in the icing filling 
given below. 

DRIED FRUIT FILLING — To 4 cups of the best evaporated ap- 
ples, take 3 cups of nice dried raspberries, and let them cook slowly 
for 3 or 4 hours; then work through the colander and add 2 cups of 
sugar (or more, if preferred) and flavor with vanilla. This is nice for 
layer cake, short cake, and with meats. 

BANANA FILLING — Mash 6 bananas, add the juice of 1 lem- 
on, and 3 tablespoons of sugar — more if liked. Or, (2) Mix sliced 
bananas with the whipped cream or icing fillings given below. 

CARAMEL FILLING Take 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup 

brown sugar, ^ tablespoon butter (scant,) | cup sweet milk; boil 
about 7 minutes; add 1 teaspoon vanilla, beat, and spread on cake. 

CHOCOLATE FILLING. — Into ^ cup milk scrape 2 squares of 
chocolate and add 3 tablespoons sugar (heaping); boil till thick, and 
spread between layers and on top. 



B60 LAYER CAKES 

CREAM CHOCOLATE FILLING.— Take 1| cups of confection- 
er's sugar and just enough sweet cream to moisten; mix well, set the 
vessel containing it in a kettle of hot water and let it come to the 
boiling point; then add the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
also enough grated chocolate to give a light or dark color, as desired. 
Beat until cool and stiff; then add a teaspoon of vanilla; spread be- 
tween and on the top of layer cakes. 

COCOANUT FILLING — Use either a plain or boiled icing, and 
stir in either grated or dessicated cocoanut. The cocoanut is some- 
times soaked in milk for | hour before using it. 

CRANBERRY FILLING. — On each layer spread rich cranberry 
jelley, and cover it with white icing. 

CREAM FILLING.— One pint of sweet milk; 1 small cup of 
sugar; put it over the fire, in a double boiler, or pail set in a kettle of 
boiling water; just before it boils add 2 welbbeaten eggs; a pinch of 
salt, and 2 tablespoons of corn=starch dissolved in a little cold milk; 
stir until it thickens. When cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon. 

WHIPPED CREAM FILLING — Whip 1 cup sweet cream to a 
stiff froth ; sweeten and flavor to taste, and spread on. The cream 
will froth easier if put on ice ^ hour before whipping. 

MOCK WHIPPED CREAM.— Take 1 large sour apple, peel- 
ed and grated, 1 cup white sugar, white of 1 egg; beat all together 
a long time. Flavor with vanilla. Mix the apple with the sugar as 
soon as possible after grating, or it will turn dark. Use like whipped 
cream. Delicious. Try it. 

CUSTARD FILLING — Spread good custard between layers, hav- 
ing it slightly cool before spreading it on. 

DATE FILLING — Take 2 lbs. dates, remove the seeds, chop 
fine and add cold water enough to make a smooth paste. 
Figs may be prepared the same way. 

FIG FILLING. — (1) Use 1 cup chopped figs, | cup hot water, 1 
small cup powdered sugar; cook till soft, and spread between layers. 
Or (2) Stir chopped figs into the icing filling given below. 

ICING FILLING.— Beat together whites of 3 eggs and 1 cup 
pulverized sugar; add | teaspoon of any flavoring desired. This can 
be varied by stirring in any fruit desired, such as stoned and seeded 
raisins, chopped almonds, bananas, berries, figs, dates, etc. 

BOILED ICING FILLING — Put a little water on 2 cups of gran- 
ulated sugar — just enough to dissolve it; let it boil until it linir.ui 



LAYER CAKES 36] 

from a spoon; pour it slowly on the well-beaten whites of 2 eggs, 
beating all the time, until thick enough to spread on the cake; add a 
teaspoon of any flavoring desired. As it cools any kind of fruit can 
be stirred in if desired. 

JELLY FILLING. — Fruit jelly, jam or marmalade of almost 
any kind is nice spread between layers of cake. Add a layer of 
icing also if desired. 

LEMON FILLING.— Use 1 lemon (juice and grated rind), 1 egg, 
•| cup sugar, 1 tablespoon of water, butter size of walnut. Beat all 
together, set on stove and let boil up a minute. 

LEMON HONEY FILLING.— Use 1 lb. loaf sugar, 2 whole eggs, 
yolks of 8 eggs, ^ lb. butter, juice of 6 lemons, grated rind of 2 lem- 
ons. Put the sugar, lemon and butter into a sauce=:pan, and melt 
over a gentle fire; when all is dissolved stir in the eggs, which have 
been well beaten; stir rapidly until it is as thick as honey. Spread 
this between the layers of cake. Set aside the remainder in a closely 
covered vessel for future use. 

MAPLE FILLING — Take 1 cup maple sugar, 1 cup white sugar 
and^ cup of water; boil until it will form in stiff drops when dropped 
into cold water; cool until slightly warm, and add whites of 2 eggs, 
beaten stiff; spread between the layers of cake. 

MOCK MAPLE FILLING — Take 2 cups good brown sugar, | 
cup sweet cream, butter size of large egg; boil together carefully 12 
minutes; strain through a hair sieve or double cheese cloth. Flavor 
with 1| teaspoons vanilla. Let it cool and thicken before spreading 
on cake. 

NUT FILLING — Take 1 cup sugar, 1 cup thick cream, (sweet 
or sour) 1 cup hickory nuts chopped fine; boil all together until 
thick. Any other oily nuts can be used instead, such as peanuts, 
almonds or butternuts. 

ORANGE FILLING — Take the juice and grated rind of 2 oran- 
ges, stir in as much powdered sugar as the liquid will take up, and 
spread it between layers. This may be varied by stirring in des- 
sicated cocoanut with the sugar, and then si3rinkling dry cocoanut 
on top of the cake. Or use the whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff", grated 
rind and juice of 1 orange made thick with pulverized sugar; beat 
all well together and use. Or mix slices of orange into the icing 
filling given above. 

ORANGE FILLING No. 2.— One cup sugar wet with 3 table- 
spoons of orange juice (enough drops from the oranges as you slice 



362 LAYEK CAKES 

them, if not, use water); 1 tablespoon of butter. Simmer this on the 
stove until a nice syrup, and when boiling add 2 beaten eggs; remove 
from stove and stir briskly. When cold add orange or lemon flavor 
and the sliced fruit, and sjoread between the layers. 

ORANGE AND COCOANUT FILLING — Beat 1 egg stiff, add 1 
cup sweet cream, 1 cup grated cocoanut, juice and -| the grated rind 
of 1 large orange and ^ cup sugar. Spread it between layers and 
on top of cake, and sprinkle on fresh grated cocoanut. 

PEACH OR FRUIT CREAM FILLING.— Cut peaches into thin 
slices, or chop them, and prepare cream by whipping and sweeten- 
ing. Put a layer of peaches between the layers of cake, and pour 
the cream over each layer and over the top. 

Bananas, strawberries, and other fruit may be used the same 
way, mashing the strawberries when used, and strewing them thick 
with powdered sugar. 

PINEAPPLE FILLING.— Chop 1 pineapple fine and cook it 
with f its weight of sugar; while hot, add ^ box of gelatine (having 
had that soaking in cold water for 1 hour before.) It should be 
thick enough not to run. Spread thickly on all layers but the top 
one. 

PLUM FILLING — Stew plums till soft, remove pits and skins, 
and pass the pulp through a coarse sieve. Spread between layers. 
Or (2) stew, chop, and stir the plums into the icing filling given 
above. 

PRUNE FILLING — Stew, stone and chop the prunes and stir 
them into the icing filling given above. 

RAISIN FILLING.— ^Seed and chop 1 cup of raisins, and stir 
them into the icing filling given above. Or, use equal amounts of 
raisins and blanched almonds (chopjjed) if desired. 

RAISIN FILLING No. 2.— Take 1 cup maple syrup, add a little 
vinegar to prevent its graining, boil till it threads from a spoon; then 
add 1 cup raisins, seeded and chopped, and stir till cold. 

RHUBARB FILLING.— Yolks of 2 eggs, beaten, ^ cup sugar, I 
cup butter, \ cup rhubarb juice, strained and sweetened; set the dish 
containing this mixture in a pan of hot water, and stir continually 
until the paste is smooth and thick. Then spread between layers of 
cake, 

STRAWBERRY FILLING.— Take white of 1 egg, beat till very 



LAYER CAKES md 

stiff, add f cup of sugar and beat again; then add f cup fresh 
strawberries bruised to a pulp, and beat till stiff. 

STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY FILLING.— Spread icing 
over each layer, and cover the icing with choice fresh strawberries or 
r&sberries, or stir the fruit into the icing before spreading it on. 

TUTTI FRUTTI FILLING.— Make a soft icing with whites of 2 
eggs, well beaten, and pulverized sugar. Flavor with vanilla or 
lemon if desired. Then stir into it ^ cup best raisins, seeded and 
chopped fine, 2 tablespoons currants, washed, dried and picked, 2 
tablespoons orange marmalade. Enough for 2 good sized layer 
cakes. Other combinations of fruit can be easily devised by the 
ingenious cook, and stirred into a soft icing. Almonds (chopped), 
raisins (seeded and chopped) and cocoanut make a nice combina- 
tion. So do figs, almonds and citron. 

LAYER CAKE.^ 
i cup butter. 1 pint flour. 

1 cup sugar (heaping). 2 level teaspoons baking 
i cup milk. powder. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 
Bake in layers. This is a standard recipe. It can 

be varied, if desired, by using i to 1 cup of corn=starch 
in place of that much flour, and 4 to 6 eggs could be 
used if preferred; also rich cream instead of milk, and 
any other extract instead of the lemon. Use any of the 
preceding fillings desired. 

1-2-3 CAKE. 
i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 cups sugar. Any flavoring desired. 

3 eggs. Bake in layers. 

Filling. — Use 1 cup milk; 2 eggs; i cup sugar; 
lump of butter the size of a large hickory nut; any fla- 
voring desired. Bring the milk to a boil; thicken the 
Qgg with flour and add to the boiling milk. When off 
the fire stir in 1 cup cocoanut. Also sprinkle cocoanut 
over the top of cake when it is done. 



364 LAYEK CAKES 

ALMOND CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 eggs. 

2 cup sugar. 4 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in layers and use the almond filling given 
among our fillings. 

APPLE JELLY CAKE. 

2 tablespoons butter. 1 egg. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in layers, and use the apple filling given 
among the previous fillings. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE No. 1. 

i cup butter. 4 eggs. 

2 cups powdered sugar. 2 cups flour (well filled). 

i cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Divide into 3 parts and bake 2 layers as mixed. 
Into the third part mix i cup grated chocolate and 
bake. For the icing, boil 1 cup white sugar and 3 
spoonfuls water till it ropes; add the white of an egg 
and beat together until white. Ice each layer, putting 
the dark layer in the center, and ice the top. 
BEATEN CREAM CAKE. 

i cup butter. 3 whites of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

I cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in 3 layers and put together with thick sweet 
cream beaten with a little pulverized sugar. Or use 
the " mock whipped cream " given among the fillings. 
CHEAP CREAM CAKE. 

1 tablespoon butter. 1 egg. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Add 1 teaspoon of any flavoring and bake in lay- 
ers. Use the cream filling given among our fillings. 



LAYER CAKES 365 

CHOCOLATE CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour, 

i cup sweet milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in layers. 
Chocolate Cream For Filling. — Take i cup milk, 
yolk of 1 egg, i cup chocolate, 1 teaspoon vanilla; 
sweeten to taste; boil until thick as jelly. Spread 
between layers when cold. 

COCOANUT CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 10 whites of eggs. 

2 cups sugar. 3i cups flour. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 

Filling. — Whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff and sugar 
enough added to keep it from running; spread it on 
layers, and sprinkle cocoanut between layers and on 
top of cake. 

COCOANUT CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. h cup corn= starch, 

li cups sugar. li cups flour, 

i cup water. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

6 whites of eggs. i teaspoon soda. 

Bake in layer tins. Then take the whites of 3 eggs 
and beat to a froth with 6 tablespoons of sugar and 1 
cup grated cocoanut. Use it for both filling and frost- 
ing. 

CREAM CAKE. 
1 cup sugar. li cups flour. 

3 eggs. 2 small teaspoons baking 
3 tablespoons water. powder. 

Bake in 4 jelly tins, and when done spread the lay- 
ers with the cream filling given among our fillings. 
Do not spread on the filling till the cake is cold. If 
preferred it can be baked in 2 ordinary pie tins and 
split open when cold. 



866 LAYER CAKES 

CUSTARD CAKE. 

1 cup sugar. U cups flour. 

3 eggs, beaten separate. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

2 tablespoons cold water Flavor to taste, 
added to the beaten 

whites. 
Bake in 2 tins in a hot oven; split when hot, and 
spread with custard. 

DATE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

2 cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

5 eggs. 

Bake in 5 layers, and use the date filling given 

among our fillings. 

DENVER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 1 cup sweet milk, 

li cups sugar. 3 cups sifted flour. 

6 eggs. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

This cake must be well beaten. It will make 5 
layers. Use any filling desired. It can be made in 
high altitudes. 

ECONOMICAL LAYER CAKE. 
i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 tablespoon corn=starch 

made smooth in 
1 cup sweet milk. 

Bake in thin sheets. Use cream, cocoanut, jelly or 
any filling desired. 

FIG LAYER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour (sifted). 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

4 large or 5 small eggs. 1 teaspoon vannilla. 
i cup milk. 

Bake in 4 layers. When cold spread on our " Fig 

Filling, No. 1." 



LAYEK CAKES 367 

lEOQUOIS CAKE, 
i cup butter. li cups flour. 

1 cup powdered sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder 

3 whites of eggs. (scant), 

i cup milk. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 

Bake in 2 tins, and use the " icing filling " given 
among our fillings. 

JELLY CAKE. 
i cup butter. i cup milk (scant). 

1 cup sugar. If cups flour. 

2 eggs. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 teaspoon of any flavoring. 

Bake in three layers. Spread jelly between layers 

for filling. 

PEACH CAKE. 

Bake sponge cake in 3 layers as for jelly cake; take 
fine ripe peaches, chop fine or slice thin. Between 
layers and on top put a layer of the peaches and cover 
them with either the whipped cream or mock whipped 
cream given among our fillings. Eat soon after pre- 
paring it. 

ROCHESTEK JELLY CAKE. 

LIGHT PAET. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
6 whites of eggs. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 

1 cup sweet milk. Bake in 3 layers. 

DAEK PAET. 

i cup butter. 2 cups seeded raisins. 

1 cup brown sugar. i cup citron (chopped fine). 

i cup molasses. ^ teaspoon cloves. 

1 egg. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

2 cups flour. i nutmeg, grated. 

i teaspoon soda dissolved 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 
in i cup coffee. Bake in 2 layers. 

Put light and dark parts alternately, spreading 
jelly between the layers. Frost the top. 



368 LAYER CAKES 

ROLLED JELLY CAKE. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour 

3 eggs. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

2 tablespoons milk. i teaspoon lemon extract. 

Bake in a long tin, and while warm spread with 
jelly or jam. (raspberry is best) and roll thus; spread a 
towel on the table, lay on the cake, and roll, keeping 
towel over it to prevent its cracking. Do not take off 
towel until the cake is cold. 

MINNEHAHA CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup milk. Flavor with lemon. 

8 whites of eggs. 

Filling.— Use 1 cup blanched almonds, and 2 cups 
seeded raisins, chopped fine; mix these with a boiled 
frosting, and flavor with lemon. Put blanched almonds 
in halves in the frosting on top. 

NUT LAYER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. li teaspoons baking pow- 
i cup sweet milk. der. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Use the " Nut Filling " given among our fillings. 
ORANGE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
h cup water. 1 orange, juice and grated 
5 yolks of eggs. rind. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Use the orange filling No. 1 given among our fill- 
ings. 

CORNSTARCH JELLY CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup flour. 

2 cups sugar. 7 whites of eggs. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

1 cup corn=starch. i teaspoon soda. 

Bake in layers. Spread any good jelly between 
layers for filling. 



LAYER CAKES 869 

ORIENTAL CAKE. 

WHITE AND PINK LAYERS. 

i cup butter. h cup corn=starch. 

1 cup granulaied sugar. li cups flour. 

i cup milk. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

3 whites of eggs. powder. 

Beat butter and sugar to cream, add milk and 
corn=starch, first stirring them together, then the flour 
and baking powder, and last the whites of eggs beaten 
light. Divide the mixture in two, and into i put as 
much pink coloring as you like, the object being to form 
different colored layers. 

YELLOW AND BEOWN PAETS. 

i cup butter. 1 whole egg. 

1 cup sugar. If cups flour. 

i cup sweet milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

4 yolks of eggs, beaten 
light. 

After mixing divide into 2 parts, and to 1 part add: 

1 oz. grated chocolate, 1 tablespoon of water, 3 tea- 
spoons of sugar and i teaspoon of vanilla, which should 
be stirred until smooth over a hot fire. Bake all the 
layers in jelly=pans in" a moderate oven — it should bake 
in about 20 minutes. 

For filling use 1 cup powdered sugar, and whites of 

2 eggs, beaten light. Use the brown cake for the bot- 
tom layer, spread over it a thin coating of the filling 
and cover with a layer of thin slices of figs placed close 
together; next the yellow cake with icing and sliced 
oranges free from seeds and rind; next, whites with 
icing and cocoanut; finish with the pink layer spread 
with a firm, white icing, decorated with almonds and 
candies. It is best eaten fresh. This makes a deli- 
cious cake. If desired, you can leave out all the filling 
except the icing. '^^ 



370 LAYER CAKES 

POLONAISE CAKE. 

1 cup butter (scant). 3 cups flour. 

2 cups pulverized sugar. H teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup milk. Bake in 4 layers. 

7 whites of eggs. 

Filling. — Use 3 cups pulverized sugar boiled in a 
little water until brittle; then turn the hot sugar upon 
the beaten whites of 4 eggs, stirring until cold. On the 
first layer spread \ lb. macaroons chopped fine and 
mixed with some of the frosting. On the second layer 
I lb. crystalized fruit, chopped fine, mixed with some of 
the frosting and flavored with lemon. Third layer, i 
lb. blanched almonds and i lb. citron both, chopped fine 
and mixed with some of the frosting, flavored with 1 
teaspoon extract of almonds and 1 teaspoon of rose 
water. Frost the top with the frosting left over, mixed 
with a little crystalized fruit. 

WHITE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup powdered sugar. li teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup sweet milk. Flavor with almond. 

2 whites of eggs. Bake in layers. 

Grated cocoanut mixed with sugar can be spread 
between the layers; or, if desired, an icing can be made 
of 1 cup powdered sugar, whites of two eggs, and 
enough dissolved chocolate to give it a rich dark color. 

COCOANUT WHITE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 3 eggs. 

li cups sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup sweet milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in jelly tins. Make a frosting of the whites 
of 2 eggs and \ cup sugar, and beat into it some finely 
grated cocoanut Spread it between and on top of cake 
and set it aside to cool. 



LAYER CAKES 371 

CREAM PUFFS. 

3 cups flour. 2 cups boiling water. 

1 cup butter. 5 eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Mix the flour, butter and salt, pour in the boiling 
water, beat lightly, and put on the stove in a rice boil- 
er; cook until it becomes thick, stirring constantly. 
Then take from stove, let it cool, and then break in the 
eggs 1 at a time. Drop on buttered dripping pan or 
gem irons, and bake. Have the puffs baked just before 
serving time; split and fill them with the custard filling 
given among our fillings, having it slightly cool before 
putting it in the puffs. 

RIBBON CAKE. 

i cup butter. 5 yolks of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

Mix and divide. Flavor one half with orange ; for 
the other half use vanilla, and enough grated chocolate 
to color brown. Take enough for 1 layer out of each 
half. Then take 

i cup butter. 5 whites of eggs. 

li cups sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

Mix and divide. Flavor one half with lemon; 
flavor the other half with rose water, and with pulver- 
ized cochineal color it pink or red. Take enough for 1 
layer out of each half. Then mix all the balance of the 
batter together and put in any kind of fruit desired — 
seedless raisins, currants or citron. Bake in 5 layers. 
Build the cake while hot, putting nothing between lay- 
ers. Have the fruit layers alternate with the brown, 
white, yellow and red. Frost top or not. 



372 LOAF CAKES 

STEAWBERRY CAKE. 

Any sponge cake recipe will do; make the sponge 
cake dough in very thin layers and bake in biscuit 
pans. Beat the whites of 4 eggs, and when stiff add 4 
teaspoons sugar. Have ready a dish of strawberries, 
sweetened enough to take away the acid taste, and 
spread it between the layers, covering the berries with 
the frosting. Cut in small squares and serve cold. 

VANITY CAKE. 
4 cup butter. i cup corn=starch. 

H cups sugar. li cups flour, 

li cups sweet milk. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

6 whites of eggs. 

Bake in 2 cakes, putting frosting between and on 
top. 

LOAF CAKES. 

Time to Bake. — Thin cakes will bake well in 15 to 20 minutes; 
thicker cakes require 30 to 40 minutes; and very thick ones will re- 
quire about 1 hour. Fruit cake will require from 2 to 3 hours. 

Do not take cakes out of the oven too soon. Let delicate cakes 
cool a little in the pans as they are apt to fall if taken out of them 
hot, but do not let cakes stay in the pans till moist. Let the air cir- 
culate around cakes freely to cool them, and have them thoroughly 
cold before putting them away. Keep them in a tin box or stone jar 
tightly closed. Any cake made with yeast is best eaten quite fresh. 
Cakes which are to be long kept, like wedding, black and fruit cakes, 
can be wrapped in waxed paper to advantage. Any cake can have 
powdered sugar dusted on it while warm; if it melts, more can be 
added after it cools. 

Use a warm knife if you cut cake while it is warm. 

ALMOND CAKE, 
i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

li cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup milk. 1 cup blanched almonds. 

3 eggs. 

Blanch the almonds, split them lengthwise, dry 
them, and mix with the cake last. 



. LOAF CAKES 373 

APPLE CAKE. 

h cup butter and 2 eggs, 

i cup lard — melt these 4 teaspoons baking powder, 
together. Flour enough to make 

i cup sugar. rather soft. 

2i cups milk. 

Pare and slice 7 or 8 apples and set them down 
into the top of the dough, close together, when it is in 
the pan. Sprinkle A cup sugar and some cinnamon on 
top of all. Bake slowly, and when the apples are done 
the cake is done. This makes a dripping pan full. 
APPLE CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. 2 cups preserved apples. 

1 cup brown sugar. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

1 cup molasses. 1 nutmeg. 

1 cup boiling water. 1 teaspoon soda. 

After these are well mixed together add 2 well= 
beaten eggs and 4 cups flour. To preserve the apples, 
take 1 quart of chopped apples and stew slowly in li 
cups molasses 4 or 5 hours, or until reduced to 1 pint. 
Bake in a moderate oven. AVill keep several weeks. 

DKIED APPLE CAKE. 
1 cup butter or cream. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sweet milk. Spice to taste. 

3 cups flour. 

Soak 2 cups dried apples over night; in the morn- 
ing boil them 1 hour (or till soft) in 1 cup sugar and 1 
cup molasses; when cold, add the above ingredients 
and bake. 

ANGEL'S FOOD. 

Take 1 tumbler of flour and put into it 1 teaspoon 
of cream of tartar and sift the whole 4 times; beat the 
whites of 11 eggs to a stiff frotli and then beat in Ih 
tumblers of pulverized suga)-, a teaspoon of vanilla, and 
a pinch of salt; then add the flour and beat thoroughly 



374 



LOAF CAKES 



but lightly; bake in a bright imgreased pan 40 to 45 
minutes. When done, turn it over to cool, placing 
something under the corner of the pan so that the air 
will circulate underneath and assist the cooling; cut it 
out when cool. 

BLACK CAKE. 



H cups butter. 
2 cups brown sugar. 
2 cups sweet milk. 
2 tablespoons molasses. 
6 eggs beaten separate. 
»3 cups browned flour. 
2 teaspoons cream tartar. 
1 teaspoon soda. 



1 teaspoon mace or nutmeg. 

1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

1 teaspoon cloves. 

4 cups currants. 

1 cup citron. 

4 cups raisins. 

Bake 3 hours. 



BLUEBEKRY OR HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. 



1 tablespoon 
(rounding). 

1 cup sugar, 
f cup milk. 

2 eggs. 



butter 2 cups flour. 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

(scant). 
1 cup berries, added last. 



i cup butter 
i cup lard. 
2 cups sugar. 
2 eggs, well beaten. 



BREAD CAKE 
added to 



It cups raisms. 

Nutmeg and cinnamon. 

2 cups dough. 

1 teaspoon soda. 

Work the cake thoroughly. 



BUTTERMILK CAKE. 

1 teaspoon butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup buttermilk. Spice to taste. 

1 egg' Cheap and good. 

CAMERON CAKE {Without Eggs). 

h cup butter. i teaspoon soda. 

1^ cups sugar. • 2 cups chopped raisins. 

1 cup sour milk. Nutmeg and cinnamon to 

3 cups sifted flour. taste. 



LOAF CAKES 875 

CANADA CAKE {Without Eggs.) 
i cup butter. 2i cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda in the sour 

milk. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3i cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

5 eggs (leaving out 
whites of 2). 
Fo^" frosting beat the whites of the 2 eggs with 
sugar enough to keep it from running, and add i cake 
of sweet chocolate; flavor with vanilla. Apply the 
frosting while the cake is hot. 

CLOVE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. h teaspoon cloves. 

2 cups brown sugar. i nutmeg. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

1 egg. 1 cup raisins. 

3 cups flour. h teaspoon salt. 
1 teaspoon soda. 

CIDEK CAKE, 
i cup butter. 4 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup cider. 1 cup raisins. 

1 egg. 

CITRON CAKE. 
1 cup butter. 4i cups flour. 

3 cups brown sugar. 2k teaspoons baking powder. 

H cups sweet milk. 2 cups citron, cut fine. 

7 



COFFEE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 4i cups flour. 

2 cups brown sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder 
1 cup strong coffee (cold). 1 cup raisins (chopped). 

1 cup molasses. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

3 eggs. 1 teaspoon cloves. 



376 LOAF CAKES 

COLD WATER CAKE. 

2 tablespoons butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. i teaspoon soda. 

1 cup cold water. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

1 egg. 

CONFEDERATE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour (level). 

1 cup pulverized sugar 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 

(heaped). Frost if desired. 

6 eggs. 

CORN=STARCH CAKE. 

i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups corn=starch. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then the 

whites of egg to a stiff froth and mix; beat together, 

and add the corn=starch, a tablespoon at a time, beating 

constantly. Bake in a tin lined with buttered paper. 

Bake in a moderate oven, about 1 hour. 

CORN=STARCH CAKE No. 2. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. . 1 cup corn=starch. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

4 eggs. 1 teaspoon soda. 

Sift soda, cream tartar, corn=starch and flour all 
together; add it to the other ingredients, and flavor with 
1 teaspoon of any flavoring desired. 

CREAM CAKE. 

1 cup sugar. 2i cups flour. 

1 cup thick sour cream. 1 teaspoon saleratus (put 

2 eggs. into the cream). 

DELICATE CAKE. 

■i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

lA cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 
4 whites of eggs. 



LOAF CAKES 377 

DENNISON CAKE {Without Eggs). 

i cup butter. 4 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon soda in the milk. 

1 cup buttermilk. Spice to taste. 

2 cups raisins. 

DATE CAKE, 
i cup butter. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

1 cup sugar, rounding full. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sweet milk. i teaspoon lemon extract. 

2 eggs. A dash of nutmeg. 

2i cups flour. 1 heaping cup of prepared 

dates. 
Prepare the dates as directed in the introduction to 
this chapter, and stir them in the last thing. Bake in 
a shallow pan. Cut in squares to serve. 

DOUGH CAKE, 
i cup butter. 1 cup chopped raisins (seed- 

1 cup sugar. ed). 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

1 cup raised bread dough. A little nutmeg. 

i teaspoon soda. 

Mix the dough and butter thoroughly with the 

hand, then the sugar, then the eggs; add the fruit last. 

Do not let it stand to rise, but put it in a bread pan as 

soon as mixed and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 

DOUGH CAKE {Economical). 

2 lbs. raised dough. 1 lb. raisins (seeded), 
i cup butter. i nutmeg (grated). 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon saleratus. 

Mix well, put in greased pans, let rise about t hour, 
and bake in a moderate oven. 

FKENCH CAKE. 
f cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar, heaped. i nutmeg, grated. 

1 cup cream. f cup raisins. 

\ cup milk. 2 ounces citron, chopped. 

6 eggs. 2 ounces almonds, pounded. 



378 LOAF CAKES 

FEATHEK CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
I cup milk. 1 teaspoon lemon. 

3 eggs. 

This also makes a nice layer cake, with jelly or 
chocolate between layers. 

FOUNTAIN CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 
1 cup milk. i teaspoon soda. 

6 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 

Mix the above; stir in quickly the well=beaten whites 
of 4 of the eggs, reserving the whites of 2 for the frost- 
ing. Bake in loaves, and as soon as done cover with 

frosting. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

i cup butter. If cups flour. 

k cup brown sugar. i teaspoon soda. 

i cup molasses. 1 cup chopped raisins, 

i cup sweet milk. Cinnamon, citron and cloves. 

1 egg. Flour the fruit before add- 

ing. 
FRUIT CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. 4 eggs well beaten. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

-2- cup molasses. 1 cup raisins (seeded), 

i cup water. 1 cup currants. 

Flour to make about as thick as common stirred 
cake (not too thick). It makes a large cake. 

FRUIT CAKE No. 3. 
li cups butter. 4 cups currants. 

2 cups sugar (heaped). 4 cups raisins (seeded). 
1 teaspoon rose water. 1 cup citron. 

Juice of 2 lemons. i cup almonds. 

10 eggs. 1 tablespoon of mace. 

4 cups flour. 

Flour the fruit and add it last. Allow 2 hours to 
bake if in 1 loaf. 



LOAF CAKES 379 

FKUIT CAKE {Economical). 

i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2i cups sugar. i teaspoon each of ground 

i cup sour milk. cinnamon, cloves and nut- 

6 cups flour (about that). meg. 

1 cup raisins, currants and 
citron, mixed. 

Knead all together, roll about 2 inches thick, and 
bake in a quick oven. 

STEAMED FKUIT CAKE. 

i cup butter (full). 6 cups raisins. 

2 cups brown sugar 2 cups citron, 

(heaped). 1 nutmeg, grated. 

1 teacup milk. i tablespoon each cinna- 
t cup molasses. mon and cloves. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon soda. 

4 cups flour. 

Put in a pan and steam 3 hours; then place in the 
oven 1 hour, to dry. 

WHITE FKUIT CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 cups white sugar. 1 lb. almonds, blanched and 
1 cup sweet milk. cut fine. 

5 whites of eggs. 1 lb. citron cut in thin slices. 
3i cups flour. 1 grated cocoanut. 

GEORGIA CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. h cup corn=starch. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

4 eggs. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 

GOLD CAKE. 

h cup butter (scant). 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

J cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 
4 yolks of eggs. 



380 LOAF CAKES 

GRAHAM CAKE. 
i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. i cup raisins (seeded). 

1 cup sour milk. i nutmeg, grated. 
3h cups graham flour. 

GROOM'S CAKE. 

2 cups butter (heaped). 2 cups raisins (seeded). 

2 cups white sugar (heap- 2 lbs. almonds, blanched 

ed). and chopped. 

10 eggs. h lb. citron, shaved fine. 

4 cups flour. 

Stir the almonds into the cake; flour the raisins 
and citron and put a layer in the cake pan, then put in 
a layer of cake, then fruit again, and so on alternately, 
finishing with cake. Bake 2 hours in a moderate oven. 

HASTY CAKE. 

1 tablespoon butter. 1 egg. 

1 cup powdered sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup milk. 3 small teaspoons baking 

powder. 

Bake immediately in a quick oven; it may be baked 

in patty tins or in a loaf. Nice while fresh. 

HICKORY NUT CAKE. 

i cup butter. li cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 
h cup sweet milk. 1 cup hickory nut meats 

2 eggs. (chopped). 

Add the nickory nut meats last. Frost it when 
baked, mark in squares, and put a nut meat in each 
square. 

ICE CREAM CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups sifted flour. 

2 Clips sugar. 1 cup corn= starch. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder 

8 whites of eggs. 



LOAF CAKES 381 

IMPEKIAL CAKE. 

1 cup butter (heaped). 2 cups flour (level). 

1 cup sugar (heaped). i teaspoon soda. 

2 teaspoons lemon juice. 1 cup raisins. 

i the grated rind of 1 lem- i cup walnuts (chopped), 
on. 5 eggs, beaten separately. 

Bake in a moderate oven li hours. Flour the fruit 
with a scant tablespoon of flour extra. 
LEMON CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 to 2h cups flour. 

li cups sugar. 1 lemon, (juice and grated 

i cup sweet milk. rind). 

3 eggs. i teaspoon soda. 

MAEBLE CAKE. 

LIGHT PAET. 

i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 

Ih cups white sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup sour milk. A teaspoon soda. 

i teaspoon lemon extract. 

DAEK PAET. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda, 

i cup sour milk. i teaspoon allspice. 

i cup molasses. 1 teaspoon nutmeg. 

5 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon each of cinna- 

mon and cloves. 

Put alternate spoonfuls of each part into a butter- 
ed cake tin and bake slowlj^ 

CHOCOLATE MAEBLE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup corn=starch. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

4 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

2 cups flour. 

After mixing all, take out 1 cupful of the batter 
and stir into it a heaping tablespoon of grated choco- 
late; drop this in the greased pan alternately with the 
other part. 



382 LOAF CAKES 

MOLASSES CAKE ( Without Eggs). 
1 cup butter, lard or drip- 5 cups flour. 

ping. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup Zante currants. 

1 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon each of cinna- 

1 cup molasses. mon, cloves and allspice. 

Put in 2 bread=pans, with buttered paper, and bake 
an hour in a slow oven. 

ONE EGG CAKE. 
1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

H cups sugar. H teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 cup chopped raisins. 

1 egg. 

MOUNTAIN CAKE. 
i cup butter. 2 large cups flour. 

Ih cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

h cup milk. 1 teaspoon of any flavoring. 

3 eggs. Fruit if desired. 

Add a little more flour if any fruit is added. 
OKANGE CAKE. 
i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 

2 cups sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup water. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

5 yolks of eggs. 1 orange, (juice and grated 

rind). 

PLUM CAKE. 

1 large cup butter. i lb. dates. 

2 cups sugar (heaped). i teaspoon each mace and 
12 eggs, beaten separately. cloves. 

4 cups sifted flour. 1 teaspoon each cinnamon 
1 lb. citron cut in thin and allspice. 

slices. _ i nutmeg, grated. 

3 lbs. raisins, stoned and 3 tablespoons strawberry 
halved. jam added last. 

Ih lbs. currants. 

Flour the fruit before adding it; beat the mixture 
thoroughly, and bake in well=buttered tins 4 hours, keep- 
ing a steady heat. 



LOAF CAKES 383 

POOK MAN'S CAKE. 

1 tablespoon butter. 1 cup raisins. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon saleratus dis- 

2 cups flour. solved in 

1 cup sour milk. 

POKK CAKE. 

1 cup boiling water pour- 1 cup molasses. 

ed over 1 lb. raisins. 

1 lb. fat pork, chopped fine. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 cups sugar. Spices to taste. 

Stir in flour until quite stiff, and bake slov^ly. 

POUND CAKE. 

1 lb. butter. 1 lb. flour. 

1 lb. v^hite sugar. * teaspoon mace. 

12 eggs, beaten separately. 1 nutmeg, grated. 

3 tablespoons rose=v7ater. Beat eggs very thoroughly. 

QUICK CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 eggs. 

i cup sugar. li teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup sweet milk. 

Add flour until it will not drop from the spoon. 
Can be eaten warm. 

RAISED CAKE. 

i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 

2 eggs. Spice to taste. 

1 cup sponge. Let rise 2 hours. 

i cup flour. 

RAISIN CAKE {Economical). 

T cup butter. i teaspoon soda. 

i cup sugar. 1 cup raisins, 

i cup hot water. 1 teaspoon each cinnamon 

i cup molasses. and cloves. 

1 egg. Flour to make stiff enough 

to hold a spoon. 



884 LOAF CAKES 

RAISIN CAKE, 

1 cup butter. 4 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 3i cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup molasses. Juice of 1 lemon. 

1 teaspoon rose=water. 2 cups seeded raisins. 

SILVER CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 scant cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

5 whites of eggs. 

Cover with white frosting. This cake is sometimes 
baked in small round tins and called " Snow Cake." 

SPONGE CAKE. 

1 cup granulated sugar. 1 saltspoon salt. 

6 eggs, beaten separate. ^ the juice and grated rind 
1 cup flour. of a lemon. 

After baking, while hot, dredge powdered sugar on 

top. 

SPONGE CAKE No. 2. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 

3 tablespoons of water. li teaspoons baking powder. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon flavoring. 

BERWICK SPONGE CAKE. 

6 eggs. 1 cup water. 

3 cups granulated sugar. 2 teaspoons baling powder. 
5 cups flour. Juice and grated rind of 1 
1 saltspoon of salt. lemon. 

Beat the eggs 2 minutes; add the sugar and beat 
5 minutes; then 2 cups of flour and beat 2 minutes; add 
the water, lemon juice and peel with the salt and beat 1 
minute. Have the baking powder mixed with the 
remaining 3 cups of flour, add and beat 1 minute. Bake 
slowly I hour in 2 deep bread pans. 



LOAF CAKES 385 

COOOANUT SPONGE CAKE. 

6 eggs, beaten separately. 1 teaspoon lemon essence. 
1 cup sugar, heaped. i nutmeg, grated. 

1 cup flour. Grated cocoanut. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Put it about i inch deep in tins lined with well= 
buttered paper. Bake in a quick oven about 30 min- 
utes. 

COKN^STAKCH SPONGE CAKE. 

1 cup pulverized sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup flour. 8 whites of eggs, well beat- 
i cup corn=starch. en. 

1 teaspoon of flavoring. 

Mix the flour, sugar, corn-starch and baking pow- 
der together dry, sifting all several times, and stirring 
thoroughly; then add the eggs and lemon flavor, and 
bake immediately. It is best baked in a long deep pan. 
— It also makes an excellent roll jelly cake; this quan- 
tity is enough for 2 large rolls; bake in long shallow 
tins; as soon as done, remove on a clean cloth, spread 
with jelly, and roll up at once. 

CKEAM SPONGE CAKE. 

2 eggs, broken into , 2 cups sifted flour. 

1 teacup of cream. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup white sugar. 1 teaspoon of flavoring. 
A pinch of salt. 

Beat together for 5 or 10 minutes. Bake in a 

square baking tin about i hour. 

SPICE CAKE. 

i cup butter (scant). 21 cups flour. 

2 cups brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sour milk. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

2 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon allspice. 
I white of egg. i teaspoon cloves. 

h nutmeg, grated. 

25 



386 LOAF CAKES 

SUNSHINE CAKE. 
1 cup granulated sugar. | cup of flour. 
Whites of 7 small eggs. i teaspoon cream of tartar. 
Yolks of 5 small eggs. A pinch of salt. 

Beat yolks; beat whites about half, add cream of 
tartar and beat until very stiff; stir the sugar in lightly, 
then stir beaten yolks in thoroughly; add flour last. 
Put in a tube pan, if you have it, and bake 35 to 50 
minutes, in a slow oven. 

TENNESSEE CAKE. 
i cup butter. 1 full teaspoon baking 

1 cup sugar. powder, 

i cup milk. 1 cup currants. 

li cups flour. A few slices citron. 

Cloves and nutmeg. 

Bake in sheets, ice, and cut in squares. 
TROY CAKE. 

i cup butter. 5 whites of eggs. 

li cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Divide the mixture and color i with strawberry 
coloring, and flavor with vanilla; flavor the other part 
with lemon. Put in the white, then the pink part, and 
bake slowly. 

WEDDING CAKE. 

4 full cups butter. 18 eggs, beaten separately. 

4 cups white sugar, heaped. 4 cups flour. 

1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon saleratus. 
Juice of 2 lemons. i cup citron cut thin and 
3 tablespoons cloves small. 

(ground). 4 cups seedless raisins. 

2 tablespoons each of 4 cups currants, 
mace, allspice and nut- 
meg. 

Cream the butter and add the sugar, then the 
molasses, lemon and spices, then the beaten yolks, beat- 
ing all well together, then the flour with saleratus sifted 



LOAF CAKES 387 

in, and last the beaten whites; beat all together thor- 
oughly. Flour the fruit and add last. Bake slowly 4 
hours, or longer if needed. The cake will keep for 
years. 

WHITE CAKE. 

h cup butter. H cups flour. 

1 cup white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup sweet milk. Flavor with lemon or va- 

3 whites of eggs. nilla. 

WATERMELON CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

h cup sweet milk. i teaspoon soda. 

3 whites of eggs. Flavor with lemon. 

Take a little more than i of the mixture and to it 
add 1 teaspoon liquid cochineal and i cup raisins. Put 
the red part in the center and bake. Cover with a 
frosting colored green with spinach. 

WHITE CAKE {Without Eggs). 

3 tablespoons nice fat. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

1 cup granulated sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 
1 cup milk. Nutmeg or any flavoring 

2i cups flour. desired. 

Add raisins or currants if liked; bake in a rather 
slow oven. It resembles old fashioned election cake. 

WHITE PERFECTION CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

3 cups powdered sugar. 1 cup corn=starch. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 

12 whites of eggs. 

Caramel Icing. — Take 2 cups powdered sugar, f 
cup sweet milk, 1 tablespoon of butter. Boil 10 min- 
utes, and stir while boiling; then set the dish in cold 
water, stir until cold and spread on. 



388 LOAF CAKES 

WHOKTLEBERKY CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon 

5 eggs. and nutmeg. 

3 cups flour. 4 cups fresh whortleberries. 

Be careful not to bruise the berries; flour them and 

add last. Bake in a moderate oven. 

GINGER CAKE {Without Eggs). 

i cup butter. 5 cups sifted flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup milk. 1 tablespoon ginger. 

1 cup molasses. A little cloves if liked. 

Melt the butter and molasses in the sugar, allow 
the mixture to become hot, and then add spices, milk 
with soda, and flour. It is a good plan to try a small 
cake first, and if it falls add more flour. 

GINGERBREAD. 
i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 tablespoon baking powder. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon ginger. 

2 eggs. 

Bake in a thin sheet, and while hot sprinkle granu- 
lated sugar on top. Cut in squares. (See our article 
on "Frosting and Icing " for the method of glazing gin- 
gerbread). 

HARD GINGERBREAD. 

f cup shortening. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup molasses. i teaspoon salt. 

1 teaspoon ginger. Flour enough to roll out like 

pie=crust. 

HARD GINGERBREAD No. 2. 
i cup butter. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

1 cup sugar. powder. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 teaspoon ground ginger. Flour to roll out. 

Mix hard, and roll thin. Bake in a large dripping 
pan if you have not sheets of tin. 



LOAF CAKES 389 

HAKD GINGEKBREAD ( Without Eggs). 
i cup butter. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

1 teaspoon soda dissolved 1 level teaspoon salt. 
in 1 cup molasses. 

h cup water. Flour to roll out. 

Mix hard and roll thin, and bake as above. 
HOT WATER GINGERBREAD. 

2 tablespoons butter. 1 large cup flour. 

1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 tablespoons sour milk. i teaspoon ginger, 
i cup hot v^ater. 

ORMSKIRK GINGERBREAD. 
1 cup butter (heaped). 5 level cups flour. 

1 cup brown sugar i nutmeg (grated). ' 

(heaped). 1 cup molasses. 

1 tablespoon ginger i cup citron (cut fine). 

(heaped). 

Work butter and sugar together, add the molasses, 
flour and ginger, grate in the nutmeg, and stir in the 
citron. Let the dough stand over night; then roll thin, 
cut in shapes with a biscuit cutter and bake in a quick 
oven. It makes a delicious hard gingerbread. 
SOFT GINGERBREAD. 

Butter the size of an egg. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 
1 cup molasses. 1 cup of water. 

1 teaspoon ginger. 1 teaspoon salt. 

Mix stiff with flour and bake in a square tin. 
SOUR CREAM GINGERBREAD 

h cup shortening (part 1 egg. 

butter and part meat 1 teaspoon soda. 

dripping). 1 cup sugar. 

1 cup molasses. 1 tablespoon ginger (or 

L cup thick sour cream. more to suite taste). 

Stir all together, dissolve the soda in a little water, 
use flour enough to make a medium stiff batter, but not 
too stiff as that will spoil the effect. Bake in a good 
sized dripping pan so the cake will be Ih inch thick. 



390 LOAF CAKES 

KICH SOFT GINGERBREAD. 

1 cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 small cup molasses. 1 teaspoon each of ginger 

and salt. 

Make a stiff dough with flour, and bake in a square 
tin. 

RAISIN GINGERBREAD. 

3 eggs. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon of soda. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 cup chopped raisins. 

Spice to taste. 

SPICE GINGERBREAD. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup molasses. i cup of dried currants. 

1 cup sour milk. Ginger, cinnamon, cloves 

4 eggs. and nutmeg to taste. 

Bake in square tins. 

SOUR MILK GINGERBREAD. 

2 tablespoons butter. 2 cups flour. 

i cup molasses. 1 level teaspoon soda. 

i cup sour milk. 1 level teaspoon ground 

1 egg. ginger. 

Bake in a flat tin, not as a loaf. 

SUGAR GINGERBREAD. 
h cup butter. li teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. 1 level teaspoon salt. 

i cup sour milk. 1 heaping teaspoon ground 

2 eggs. ginger. 

Mix hard and roll thin. Bake on sheets of tin or in 
the dripping pan. 



FROSTING AND ICING 391 

FROSTING AND ICING. 

Frosting or icing made from the beaten white of egg and sugar, 
serves for all kinds of ornamentation, both for cakes and pastry. 
The eggs can be beaten in a flat dish, with a fork, until stifp, and 
then the sugar added, and then the flavoring; or the sugar and eggs 
can be beaten together. Frosting cannot be made satisfactorily un- 
less the sugar used is the powdered kind, made expressly for this 
purpose. The proportions are 1 egg, to ^ of a cup, or 10 heaping 
teaspoons, of sugar. If an acid flavor like lemon is used, a little 
more sugar will be needed; the size of the egg must also be consid- 
ered. If an insufficient quantity of sugar is used icing will not hard- 
en. A little sweet cream, lemon=juice or \^inegar softens icing so 
that it crumbles less readily. The egg and sugar must be thoroughly 
beaten, some insisting on 30 minutes beating and others on only 5 
minutes. If the eggs do not beat readily a pinch of salt can be 
added, which will help some. Have the frosting all beaten and 
ready before the cake comes out of the oven. The frosting should 
be put on while the cake is warm, but not while it is hot If there 
are several cakes, and some of them cool while the others are being 
iced, they can be set in the oven and warmed before being frosted. 
A heavy frosting put directly on to a cake will inevitably peel on ac- 
count of the moisture or oiliness of the cake. A little flour dusted 
on a cake and then the loose particles rubbed ofP is a good preventative 
against the cracking of the frosting; or a little gelatine dissolved in 
boiling water and applied hot is sometimes used. An inverted milk= 
pan is a good thing on which to set the cake while applying the 
frosting. Dip the knife often in cold water if the frosting is stiff, 
and smooth it off nicely. If it is desired to frost the top only, strips 
of paper, well oiled, can be pinned around the cake, extending above 
the top, to prevent the icing from running down the sides; and re- 
moved when it cools. After icing, the cake can be set in a very cool 
oven to dry and harden for a short time, but do not let the top be- 
come colored; or set it in the warm sun. If nuts, raisins, or similar 
articles are put on for ornaments they should be added while the 
icing is moist. Piping is done when the icing is dry. All iced cakes 
should be kept in a very dry place. 

It will please a child when making cake to make a small one for 
her; cover with white frosting, and when that hardens, write the 
child's name on top with a small brush dipped in the yolk of egg. 
Children will be more pleased with some simple cake, not much more 
than sweetened bread, and ornamented for them, than they would be 



392 CAKES 

by the richest phim cake unornamented, and which they could not 
eat with safety. 

Any frosting left over can be made into little wafers, dried in the 
oven, and used for decorating various dishes. 

COLOKS FOR FROSTINGS, CANDIES, ETC. 

A Caution. — Nothing but vegetable colors should ever be used for 
frostings, candies, or any cooking purposes. As some of the coloring 
matters sold in the stores (and too often used by the uninformed) 
are deleterious or even poisonous, it is better, when possible, to pre- 
pare all coloring matters at home. We give the best of those which 
are adapted for domestic use, and they will meet all the ordinary 
wants of our readers. 

To Whiten Frosting. — A few drops of lemon= juice whitens frosting; 
BO does .a small pinch of cream of tartar. 

For an Amber Coloring Mixture put f oz. turmeric in 2 oz. deodor- 
ized alcohol; shake till dissolved, strain it, and bottle for use. 

Blue Frosting is colored with indigo. It does for ornamental 
icing, but is better not eaten. 

Brown Frosting may be made by adding caramel to gelatine frost- 
ing; or by beating the whites of the eggs with nice maple sugar. 

For Chocolate Color add a little chocolate or cocoa. 

Pink Frosting may be made by adding cranberry, strawberry, or 
raspberry juice from which the seeds have been strained; the jelly 
can also be strained and used, or a little cochineal will produce the 
color. 

Yellow Frosting may be made by adding a trifle of strong saffron 
tea (if to much is used it is apt to impart a bitter taste). Or grate 
the rind of an orange into some orange juice, let it soak about 1 
hour; strain, and use for coloring. Lemon peel can be used in the 
same way. (These are preferable to the saffron. See what we say 
in the introduction to our article on cakes about how to grate orange 
peel.) 

A Very Pretty Tint for frosting white cakes is made by beating to- 
gether 1 cup of white sugar and the yolks, of 3 eggs; flavor with 
lemon. 

Carmine Color can be made by mixing 1^ oz. boiling water, | oz. 
ammonia, and ^ oz. No. 40 carmine; bottle, cork closely, and it will 
keep any length of time. 

Cochineal Coloring — In 1 cup hot water dissolve 1 teaspoon cream 
of tartar, 1 teaspoon powdered alum, and 2 teaspoons powdered coch- 
ineal; boil 5 minutes, strain through cloth, and bottle for use. Add- 
ing a little alcohol will make it keep any length of time. 



FROSTING AND ICING 393 

A Red Color for confectionery, jellies, etc., is sometimes prepared 
by boiling sliced beetroot in a little water, and then squeezing it 
through a cloth. 

Saffron. — Boil thoroughly 1 oz. of saffron in 2 cups of water; 
strain through cloth and bottle for use. In using this, the shade 
may be varied by using more or less of it. (The objection to saffron 
is its tendency to impart a bitter taste if too much is used). 

Spinach Green. — Carefully trim the leaves from some young 
spinqich, wash them, pound them to a pulp, add a little water, and 
boil till it curdles; then strain. This juice can be used fresh, or it 
can be worked up into colored sugar, and kept for future use. 

Coloring Almonds. — Almonds can be given a yellow color by split- 
ting them in two after blanching, and putting them in the oven till 
they get a light golden tinge. They can be tinged pink or red with 
cochineal mixed with a little syrup, rubbing the almonds in it, and 
drying them in a cool oven. Gi'een coloring is produced in the same 
way with spinach green. Only vegetable colorings should be used 
for this purpose. 

Coloring Sugar — Dry granulated sugar can be tinted by working 
in enough of the desired tint to color the sugar; then dry the sugar, 
powder it, and bottle for use. 

Flavoring Sugar is done in various ways. It can be pounded, 
adding the flavoring during the process; then sift through a fine 
sieve, and bottle for use. For 1 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of either lemon or 
orange peel will be sufiicient. Other flavors can be obtained by 
using instead, 1 oz. of ginger, or 2 oz. of cinnamon, or ^ oz. of cloves. 
We have previously explained how to prepare vanilla sugar. 

Prepared Caramel.— Caramel is crystallized sugar heated to 420° 
F. when it decomposes, loses its power of crystallizing and ferment- 
ing, and acquires a dark brown color and a bitter flavor. It can be 
prepared as follows: Put 2 cups of granulated sugar in the frying^^ 
pan, add 1 tablespoon of water, and heat it over a clear fire, stirring 
continually, till it assumes a dark brown color, is brittle, and bitter 
to the taste, but do not burn it. Then add slowly 2 cups hot water, 
stir constantly, and boil 10 minutes and let it cool. If it candies 
when cool, add water and boil again. Bottle when cold, keep corked, 
and it will never spoil. It is used to flavor or color custards, sauces, 
soups, broths, gravies, etc and has so many uses that it is well to 
always keep it on hand. 

FROSTING AND ICING. 

PLAIN FROSTING — Beat 2 eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually 
work in 1 cup powdered sugar and 2 teaspoons corn-starch. Use any 
flavoring preferred. 



394 CAKES 

ALMOND FROSTING.— Make like raisin frosting, but use 1 cup 

blanched sweet almonds instead of the raisins. 

BOILED FROSTING,— The white of 1 egg, 1 cup granulated 
sugar. Beat the egg to a stiff froth. Put just enough boiling water 
on the sugar to melt it; then boil to a thick syrup; pour the boiling 
syrup over the beaten egg, and beat until it is thoroughly mixed. 
Add flavor. Pour over the cake while hot. If too much boiled, the 
.tendency of the frosting will be to dry before it cools, but 1 or 2 
drops of hot water added while using will remedy it. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING — Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff 
froth, stir in 1 teacup of pulverized sugar and 6 tablespoons of grated 
chocolate; mix well, and spread on while the cake is hot. 

BOILED CHOCOLATE FROSTING — Boil together 1 cup of 
light brown sugar and | cup of water. Remove it from the stove as 
soon as it strings from the spoon, and stir in the whites of 2 eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth, together with ^ cake of Baker's chocolate, 
finely grated. Spread this between the layers and on top while the 
frosting is warm. 

EASILY^MADE FROSTING.— Allow a full half cup of pulver- 
ized sugar to the white of 1 egg, stirring it in instead of beating the 
egg; spread it smoothly over the cake and set away to dry and you 
will find that the icing made in this way will cut -without breaking, 
and be smoother than when beaten in the old way. The icing made 
from the white of 1 egg is enough for an ordinary sized cake. 
Flavor, if desired, to suit the taste. 

GELATINE FROSTING — One teaspoon gelatine put to soak in 
1^ tablespoons of cold water, and allowed to stand till it, becomes a 
little soft. Now add 2 tablespoons boiling water, and let the mix- 
ture boil a minute. Soak it in a cup in which it can boil. Measure, 
and pour upon a large plate, and to every tablespoon of the liquid 
add 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar rolled and sifted to free it from 
lumps. Beat well, as the longer it is beaten the lighter and whiter it 
becomes. Flavor with 1 teaspoon of any extract. Have the cake 
cold. This quantity is enough for 2 pies or 1 loaf of cake. It can 
be put on very thick, will not crumble, cuts as well as the cake itself, 
and is not sticky. 

ISINGLASS FROSTING.— Pour 1 co£fee=cup of hot water on 1 
sheet isinglass, then leave it 'to dissolve in a warm place. When 
quite dissolved, and there is no scum, stir in 1 large teaspoon corn= 
starch and 2 heaping cups of pulverized sugar. Pour it on the cakes 



FKOSTINa AND ICING 395 

when they are cold, do not smooth it much, and let it harden in a 
cool place. More easily made than the ordinary frosting. 

MAPLE FROSTING — This is made by adding the beaten white 
of 1 egg to 1 cup of good maple syrup; or use granulated maple 
sugar instead. 

MILK FROSTING — Boil together 2 cups sugar, | cup of milk, 
and 1 tablespoon of butter for 10 minutes; remove from the stove, 
and beat until creamy and thick enough to spread. Add | teaspoon 
of any flavoring, 

RAISIN FROSTING.— Put 1 cup white sugar in 2 tablespoons 
warm water, and boil 5 minutes; pour it over the beaten white of 1 
egg, and beat well; then add 1 cup chopped raisins. 

SOFT FROSTING — Take 1 cup sugar and ^ cup milk, and boil 
until it will drop in strings from the spoon ; then put in a bowl, add 
1 teaspoon of flour, and beat a few minutes; let stand until cool, and 
thick enough to spread on cake without running. 

BOILED ICING — Stir 1 cup granulated sugar in 1 cup water, 
and set on the stove to boil; do not stir after it begins to boil; test it 
with a cold spoon, and when it '' threads " by holding the spoon high 
and letting the syrup fall back very slowly into the sauce-pan, take it 
from the fire; add the beated white of 1 egg to the hot syrup, and 
beat 5 minutes. Add flavoring. Spread on the cake while warm. 

COFFEE ICING is made by stirring confectioner's sugar into 
strong coffee set on the stove till it is heated; put it on the cake 
while, warm. 

ORANGE ICING. — Squeeze the juice of an orange over the 
grated rind, and let it stand an hour; then strain the juice; add to it 
a coffee=cup of confectioner's sugar and the yolk of an egg, then 
beat until stiff enough to spread on the cake. 

ICING COOKIES, ETC. — Before putting in the oven, dredge or 
sprinkle sugar'-gingerhread, cooJdes, and other small cakes not to be 
frosted, with fine sugar, and it will give a rich brown glaze, and add 
much to their flavor. 

OKNAMENTAL ICING. 

Many people imagine that it requires a great deal of practice and 
special skill to do anything of this kind, but those who have never 
tried it will be surprised to find what pretty effects can be produced 
with the simplest materials. All that is needed is a paper cone, 
which is easily made, and a little icing- 



CAKES 



Paper cones for icing can be made as follows: Cut a sheet of 
rather stiff pajDer so as to get a triangular sheet as shown in Fig. 1, 
having it about 10 inches from 1 to 2, and 5 inches from 1 to 3. Di- 
vide the hypothenuse, 2, 3, into 3 equal parts at 5 and 4. Then fold 
over the paper to make creases in it as shown by the dotted lines 
from 1 to 5 and 5 to P, and also from 6 to 4. Then take the point 3 
between the finger and thumb of the left hand, with the point 3 up- 
ward and the long side 1, 2, towards you, and taking the poiiit 2 be- 
tween the thumb and finger of the right hand roll the paper around 
the fingers of the left hand so as to form a cone, the apex of which 
will be at 5, and the crease 5, P, overlaps the crease 5, 1. This will 
leave the long point 2, 4, 6, projecting above the cone, and it can 
be turned down into the center, bringing the point 2 down to the 
apex; and this will hold the cone in shape, as seen in Fig, 2. The 
point is then cut off and the icing passes out of the opening thus 
made. The amount cut off regulates the size of the hole, and 
therefore the size of the stream of icing which will come through. 
Little brass tubes are 
made for this purpose, 
which can be bought if 
desired for a few cents 
each. The end of the 
cone is cut off, and the 
tube dropped into the 
cone, projecting a little 
as shown by the dark 
end in Fig. 3. It is 
best to make 6 or 8 
cones at a time, as the 
icing softens the paper, 
and for this reason a 
rather stiff paper is 
needed. 

To Use the Cone it is 
filled about |- to | full 
of icing, and the sides of the top are folded in over each other in 
such a way as to hold in the icing, as shown inFig. 3. In 
using the cone it is grasped by the thumb and fore-finger of the 
left hand a little ways up from the apex, while the right hand 
holds the top and the right thumb rests over the center or top, and 
forces out the icing by a slight pressure. The icing or frosting 
which is used is simply the white of egg beaten up with sugar as 



Fiy.3. 




^9 1 

PAPEB CONE FOR PIPING OK OENAMENTAL ICING. 



FKOSTING AND ICING 



397 



minf^nfimri 




we have explained for frosting. It can be variously colored as 
desired. The frosting on the cake should be cold when this orna- 
mental work is applied. This sort of decoration is termed piping. 

If the icing gets too thin, add more sugar; if too thick, add a 
little more beaten egg; it can be kept from drying while being used 
by laying a wet cloth over the bowl containing it. 

Piping or ornamental 
frosting admits of endlessly 
varied designs and effects. 
It is best to begin with 
some simple design. It 
can be drawn on paper, a 

piece of glass laid over it, -pxa. 4. 

and then let the nozzle of 
the cone trace the design 
while the icing is steadily 
pressed out by the thumb 
at the top. Then the glass 
can be cleaned off and an- ^^^ ^ 

other trial made. In this 

way very rapid progress can be make, and any one can speedily learn 
to ornament their own cakes, while those with special aptitude can 
devise very attractive designs. A simple figure for a border is shown 
in Fig. 4, while Fig. 5 shows another design, in which the dots might 
be put on with pink icing to make a contrast. We give other 
designs suitable for practice. The best taste, however, does not 
favor an excessive use of colors. Plain white, and the milder colors 
judiciously used to produce some contrast, will result in the most 
pleasing effects. Ladies will be surprised at the ease with which the 
work is done and the advance they make in learning. Cakes can be 
thus decorated so as to produce very pretty effects which will be 
pleasing and 
gratifying to 
guests. Pat- 
terns as pretty 
as any they can 
embroider can 
be made much 
more quickly 
with a paper 
cone. A well= 

decorated cake Fig- 6. Fig. 7. 

makes a pretty addition to a welh ornamented table. 




398 SMALL CAKES 

Crystallization which is sometimes used, is merely putting on, 
while the icing is moist, crushed rock candy or granulated sugar, 
white or colored (see " Colors for Frosting"). Special designs can 
be applied by letting the frosting dry, then marking out the design 
with white of egg or gum water; then sprinkle on the white or 
colored sugar or candy, and shake off all that does not adhere. 

Jelly can be used for piping in just the same manner as frosting. 
Warm it so that it will pass easily through the cone; beating it to a 
uniform consistency with a spoon often helps it, especially in cold 
weather. 

Butter or Lard can also be used in the same way. Have it soft 
enough to pass easily through the cone with gentle pressure, but not 
too soft. In hot weather it can be stiffened with a little flour, but do 
not get it too stiff. 

Ornamenting Other Articles — Piping is used for decorating many 
other things besides cakes, but the method is the same for all. For 
pastry or puddings the frosting made of white of egg and sugar is 
used, while butter, lard or jelly, are used for ham, tongue or 7'oast 
fowl. 

SMALL CAKES. 

For cookies, snaps, jumbles, etc., a quick oven is the best. They 
are all best kept in a tin box. If they get moist by keeping, dry 
them out in the oven. For icing cookies, etc., see our article on 
"Frosting and Icing." Some people sprinkle cookies with sugar, 
after being rolled out, then cut them out, press a raisin in the center, 
and bake. 

For time to hake see " Loaf Cakes." 

ALMOND DROPS. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup almonds, blanched. 
U cups sugar. Flour to roll and drop. 

3 eggs. 

ANISE DROPS. 

2 cups granulated sugar. 3 cups flour. 

3 eggs. . 1 teaspoon anise seed. 

Beat the sugar and eggs well for i hour; then add 
the other ingredients; drop on buttered pans and bake 
in a moderate oven. The secret lies in beating rapidly 
and thoroughly. Each teaspoon is dropped separately 
so as to make separate cakes. 



SMALL CAKES 399 

aiNGEK DKOPS. 

h cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i c'jp molasses. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

Beat all well together, adding flour tiil stiff enough 
to drop from the spoon in drops the size of an eg^. 
Bake on tins in a moderate oven. 

GINGEK DROPS No. 2. 

1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

i cup molasses. 2 teaspoons ginger. 

2 eggs, well beaten. Flour to roll out. 

1 tablespoon vinegar. Flavor with lemon or va- 

nilla. 
Koll out thin, cut with a small cutter and bake in a 
quick oven. 

GINGEE NUTS {Without Eggs). 

i cup lard. 1 cup molasses. 

h cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

i cup sour milk or butter- 1 teaspoon ginger, 
milk. 

Mix very soft, form into round balls like nuts, and 
bake in a rather quick oven. 

COOKIES. 

i cup lard. 1 cup sour milk, 

i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

li cups white sugar. Flour sufficient to make 

dough. 

Season with caraway seed or nutmeg to suit the 
taste. Mix thoroughly; roll very thin; bake quickly. 

BOSTON TEA COOKIES. 

1 teacup butter. ^ teaspoon soda. 

3 teacups sugar. Spice to taste. 

h cup sour milk. Flour enough to roll out 

3 eggs. rather stiff. 



400 SMALL CAKES 

CINNAMON COOKIES. 

1 cup butter, heaped. 3 eggs. 

2 cups brown sugar, heaped. 

Flour to roll out; cut in small cakes, and sprinkle 
on cinnamon and sugar just before baking. 

COCOANUT COOKIES, 
i cup butter. i teaspoon soda in a little 

1 cup sugar. water. 

1 egg. h cocoanut (grated). 

Flpur enough to roil. 

CREAM COOKIES {Extra). 
\h cups butter. Flour to roll soft. 

H cups sugar. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup thin sweet cream. Sprinkle with sugar and 
1 egg. cut. 

CREAM COOKIES No. 2. 
1 cup thick sour cream. h teaspoon soda. 
1 cup sugar. Flavor with lemon. 

A pinch of salt. 

Mix with flour enough to roll; after they are rolled 
sprinkle with granulated sugar and just pass the roll- 
ing pin over again so it will not dust off. 

GINGER COOKIES. 
I cup butter. 2 teaspoons soda. 

1 cup sugar. 2 heaping teaspoons ginger. 

1 cup molasses. A pinch of salt, 

f cup warm water. Mix rather soft. 

MOLASSES COOKIES {Without Eggs). 
i cup melted butter. i teaspoon soda, dissolved m 

1 cup New Orleans moias- 2 tablespoons cold water 

ses. (not more). 

Add cinnamon, cloves and 

nutmegs or other spices 

to taste. 

Use flour to make stiff enough so that it will just 
drop off from the spoon. They are nice eaten warm, 



SMALL CAKES 401 

MOLASSES COOKIES No. 2. 
Beat together 1 cup molasses, 1 cup sugar and 1 
egg\ add I cup of melted lard in which is 1 teaspoon of 
salt; add 1 teaspoon of soda dissolved in warm water, 
and 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and ginger; 
when all are mixed add 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and as 
much flour as can be mixed in. Roll out thin, and 
bake in a quick oven. 

HEEMIT COOKIES. 
h cup butter. Flour to roll soft. 

H cups sugar. i teaspoon soda, dissolved in 

3 eggs. 4 tablespoons water. 
1 teaspoon each cinnamon, 

cloves and nutmeg. 

HICKOEY NUT COOKIES. 
i cup butter. Flour enough to roll thin, 

li cups sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

4 tablespoons milk. 1 cup hickory nut meats 
3 eggs, well beaten. chopped rather fine. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

OEANGE COOKIES. 
I cup butter. Flour to roll out. 

1 cup sugar. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

3 eggs. • powder. 

Grated rind of 2 or 3 orang- 
es. 

EOCKFOED COOKIES, 
i cup butter. Hour enough to roll out. 

1 cup white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 tablespoons sweet milk. Bake quickly, 
legg. 

VANILLA COOKIES. 
h cup butter. Flour enough to roll soft. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

1 cup milk. _ i teaspoon soda. 

1 teaspoon vanilla. Sprinkle on sugar as you 

roll them out. 



402 SMALL CAKES 

SOFT COOKIES, 
i cup butter (scant). 2 eggs, well beaten. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup milk. i teacup cocoanut stirred in. 

Mix soft with flour. Roll about i inch thick. 
Take white of 1 egg beaten stiff, add 4 tablespoons 
granulated sugar, and cover top with this frosting; 
sprinkle with cocoanut. Bake a light brown in a quick 
oven. Watch closely as they burn easily. Extra nice. 
JUMBLES. 

i cup butter. Flour to roll out. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

i cup milk. Bake in a quick oven. 

COCOANUT JUMBLES. 
1 cup butter (scant). 1 cup flour (heaped), 

li cups pulverized sugar. 1 lb. grated cocoanut. 
5 eggs. Drop on tins with table- 

spoon. 

CREAM JUMBLES. 
i cup butter. 3 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2i cups flour. 

i cup sour cream. i teaspoon soda. 

HICKORY NUT JUMBLES. 
1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup hickory nuts. 

2 eggs. Drop off a spoon. 

GINGER BISCUITS. 

1 cup butter. 2 eggs. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder, 
i cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

Beat the butter and sugar together; add the eggs 
and beat again; then add the milk. Have the baking 
powder and ginger well mixed in a coffee cup of flour; 
add this and more flour to make a stiff dough. Cut out 
little cookies and bake. 



SMALL CAKES 403 

GINGEE SNAPS. 

1 cup lard. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved 

1 cup sugar. in 2 or 3 tablespoons of 

1 cup molasses. water. 

1 tablespoon ginger. Salt to taste. 

Stir in flour until the dough can" be made into mar- 
bles between the palms; flatten and place in tins far 
enough apart not to touch each other in rising, and bake 
moderately. These snaps will keep weeks if kept dry; 
if they become damp they can be dried out and baked 
again. 

GINGER SNAPS No. 2. 

1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons soda. 

2 cups New Orleans 2 tablespoons ginger, 
molasses. Flour to roll out. 

2 eggs. 

GINGER SNAPS {Without Eggs). 

i cup lard. i cup water. 

i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. Flour to roll out. 

2 cups molasses. 

SUGAR GINGER SNAPS. 
4 tablespoons lard. Flour enough to roll. 

3 tablespoons butter. 2 teaspoons ginger. _ 

1 cup sugar. i teaspoon soda dissolved 

i cup water (scant). in warm water. 

Warm the shortening and sugar and stir in the 
water and ginger; then the soda and add the flour last. 
Roll out very thin and bake in a quick oven. 

FRUIT SNAPS. 
1 cup butter. 1 cup each raisins and cur- 

1 teaspoon soda. rants. 

Ih cups sugar. 1 teaspoon each of ginger, 

i cup molasses. cloves, cinnamon and all- 

3 eggs. spice. 

Flour to roll out as soft as can be cut. These will 
keep several months. 



404 



SMALL CAKES 



LEMON SNAPS. 
f cup butter. Flour to roll soft. 

1 cup sugar. h teaspoon soda. 

4 tablespoons hot water. 2 teaspoons lemon juice. 

2 eggs. Bake in a quick oven. 

LADY FINGEKS. 
. Take the yolks of 5 eggs, beaten light, 1 cup white 
sugar, 1 teaspoon baking 
powder, flour to roll thin; 
flavor to taste. Cut in strips 
the size of a finger. Do not 
let them touch in the pan. 
Bake in a quick oven, 
watching them, as they 
readily scorch. 

Lady Fingers, No. 2. — 
Another recipe is to take 
the yolks of 3 eggs, beat 
light, add \ cup powdered 
sugar and beat again; add 2 
heaping tablespoons of flour, mix well, and add the 
well=beaten whites of the 3 eggs. Squeeze them out of 
a paper cone, or bag (as shown in our illustration), 
dust on sugar, and bake till light brown in a moderate 
oven. 

To Mcike a Pastry Bag. — Take strong muslin 12 inches square, 
fold together 2 opposite corners and fell together tightly 2 of the 
edges, thus making a triangular bag; then cut off the point and in- 
sert a tin pastry tube. It is best to make 2 or 3 bags for different 
sized tubes. To use the bag, put in the mixture, close the top, twist 
it, and hold it tightly with the right hand, while the left guides the 
point and presses out the mixture to form lady fingers, 6claires or 
anything else desired, (See the illustration.) 

MACAKOONS. 
Almond Macaroons. — Take 1 lb. almonds, blanch 
them, and pound to a paste with a little rose water or 




FOEMING LADY FINGEES. 



SMALL CAKES . 405 

oil of lemon; add 1 lb. of white sugar, and the well= 
beaten whites of 4 eggs. Bake in drops, or small cakes, 
on buttered tins in a slow oven to a light brown. Some 
glaze them with beaten yolk of egg^ and others dust on 
sugar before baking them. Keep in tightly closed tin 
boxes or glass jars. 

Filbert Macaroons may be made in the same way, 
by using equal parts of filberts and almonds. 

For Cocoanut Macaroons, use 1 cup powdered 
sugar and 1 cup grated cocoanut; work in enough of the 
cocoanut milk to form a plain paste; mold and bake as 
above directed. 

Hickory Nut Macaroons. — Beat the whites of 3 
eggs, 1 cup granulated sugar, and 1 cup powdered 
sugar, till very light; stir in 1 cup chopped hickory 
nuts, and bake like almond macaroons. 
lECLAIRS. 

1 cup butter. . 3 cups flour. 

2 cups water. 10 eggs beaten separately. 
A pinch of salt. 

Put the water and butter (cut small) on the stove 
till melted ; bring to a boil, beat in the flour, stir 2 or 3 
minutes; let cool and then beat in the 
beaten yolks and then the beaten 
whites. Spread on buttered baking eolaib. 

tins, in strips about 4 inches long and li inches wide 
(squeeze through the nozzle of a pastry bag if you have 
one) leaving them 2 inches apart to allow for swelling. 
Bake i to i hour. "When cool, cut open and fill with 
whipped cream, flavored to taste, or with our mock 
whipped cream, or with any fruit jelly desired. Cover 
'^ith chocolate, vanilla or almond frosting. 
CREAI^I PUFFS. 

Use same mixture as for '' eclairs," but drop it onto 
the buttered baking, tins by tablespoonfuls, making 




406 SMALL CAKES 

round balls instead of fingers. When done and cool, 
cut open and fill same as the " eclairs." 
KISSES. 

Take the well=beaten whites of 3 eggs, add 5 table- 
spoons of powdered sugar, and flavor with lemon juice; 
drop on buttered paper 
with a spoon, sift sugar 
over them and bake 30 
minutes in a slow oven. 

For Chocolate Kisses 
pound together 2 oz. chocolate and 2 cups white sugar; 
sift it, mix it with the well=beaten white of egg^ and 
finish as above. 

MAPLE SUGAR CAKES. 

Rub a piece of butter the size of an egg into 2 cups 
of flour, then add an even teaspoon of salt, well pulver- 
ized; again add a heaping teaspoon of home=made bak- 
ing powder; stir all together thoroughly. Have on 
hand a cup of maple sugar coarsely sliced from the 
cake. (Place the cake of sugar on a tin and put in the 
hot oven until it is soft enough to cut.) Have the oven 
hot and a baking=tin well buttered; add a teacup of 
sweet milk to the flour and stir quickly. If the dough 
is not thick enough add a trifle more of flour; put in the 
sugar and stir again. Roll out and cut with the bis- 
cuit cutter; place on the tin and put in the oven. The 
oven should be hot enough to bake them brown in 10 
minutes. 

PATTY CAKES. 
i cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup milk or water. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

2^ggs. 

Make a soft sponge and bake quickly in patty pans. 



SMALL CAKES 407 

PUFFS. 
2 rounded tablespoons 2 eggs (well beaten). 

butter. 1 tablespoon flour. 

4 heaping tablespoons Grated rind of 1 lemon, 

sugar. 1 cup milk. 

Mix the milk and beaten eggs; slowly add the flour, 
butter, sugar and flavor, and mix well. Bake 20 min- 
utes in a quick oven in buttered saucers. 
SHKEWSBERKY CAKES. 

1 cup butter (heaped). 2 cups flour. 

1 scant cup granulated i oz. caraway seeds, 

sugar. 1 egg^ beaten well. 

Koll very thin and cut into small cakes; prick them 
and bake in tins or shallow pans in a moderate oven. 

VERNON CAKES. 
1 heaping cup butter. 4 eggs. 

1 heaping cup sugar. 2 teaspoons soda. 

2 cups molasses. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 
1 cup milk. 1 nutmeg, grated. 

Stir together well; bake, not too close together on 
sheet iron. As they burn easily watch carefully. 

CREAM CAKES. 
1 tablespoon butter. 3 yolks of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup milk. Flour to make stiff batter. 

Bake in patty pans in a quick oven. Cut a cone 
shaped hole in the center of each and fill with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla; 
or use our '^ Mock Whipped Cream," given among our 
fillings for layer cakes. Sprinkle a little dessicated 
cocoanut on top. This makes about 1 doz. cakes. 
They are delicious. 

SAVOY BISCUITS. 

Break 5 eggs into a pan and add a coffee-cup of 
granulated sugar; beat together until it is thick, then 
beat in gradually a coffee=cup of dry sifted flour. 



408 SMALL CAKES 

Place the dough in teaspoonfuls on buttered paper in a 
dripping=pan, and bake a light brown. When cold, 
brush the under sides of the biscuits with the beaten 
white of an egg^ and press 2 together. 

TRIFLES. 
2 cups butter (heaped). 2 cups sugar (heaped). 

1 cup sweet milk. 4 cups flour (heaped). 

Cream the butter and sugar, sift in the flour, add 
the milk, turn the dough onto a bread=board and work 
well; roll out in as thin sheets as possible, cut in small 
round cakes, and bake in a very moderate oven. 
TURTLE CAKES. 

These always please the children. Have the tur- 
tles all made the day before, and ready on a plate. 
Take large raisins and flatten them; insert at one end 
a whole clove, with the head sticking out for the 
head of the turtle; at the other end insert the stem of a 
clove with the smaller end out for the turtle's tail; on 
each side insert two cloves with the heads picked out 
leaving the spurs on for the claws of the turtle. Make 
nice round cookies, spread a thick frosting on one side, 
and place a turtle on the frosting to dry. 
SAND TARTS. 

Put together 2 cups sugar (heaped), 1 cup butter, 
4 cups flour (level); add 2 beaten eggs, mix smooth, 
roll out, and cut into cakes; wash over with egg^ beaten 
whole, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, and bake. 

TRILBY LAYER CAKE (Fine). 

2 cups powdered sugar. 1 cup sweet milk. 
1 cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 

3 cups sifted flour. 2 scant teaspoons baking powder. 

Flavor to taste. For high altitudes use flour not sifted, and less 
sugar and butter (see pages 16 and 358). For filling, use Boiled 
Icing Filling (given on page 360) with finely chopped figs or walnuts 
stirred in. 



DESSERTS. 



NDER this head may be found recipes for making many deli- 
cate dishes with corn-starch, eggs, gelatine, etc., which can 
be prepared in the morning, or the day before they are 
to be used, and, in warm weather, served cold as dessert. 

Fresh new milk should be used whenever a recipe calls for milk, 
but condensed milk can be used if fresh milk is not to be obtained. 
If cream is used it should be sweet, and as fresh as possible — the 
cream from " separators " and creamers is the safest to use. Thin 
cream with milk mixed in it will not whip to a froth. The colder it 
is the better it whips — in warm weather it is apt to turn to butter. 

If cream is slightly turned a very liUle cooking soda dissolved 
in a little cold water may be mixed with it and will restore it without 
injuring the flavor. The soda (alkali) counteracts the lactic acid 
developed in souring. Milk should be scalded in a double boiler 
made for the purpose; or use a tin pail set in a kettle of boiling 
water which answers very well, and is not likely to be melted to 
pieces by a careless servant. 

So many warnings against using bad eggs have already been 
given that we need not rej)eat them here. Beat eggs in stone or 
earthenware and not in tin, as explained for cakes. It is an improve- 
ment to strain yolks through a small wire strainer after beating them. 
The yolks alone, or the whole egg, can be used for floats and boiled 
custards. To add the eggs so that they will not curdle there are sev 
eral ways. One way is to heat the milk till a slight foam appears on 
top, then put in the sugar, which cools it so that the eggs can be 
added without curdling. Another way is to mix in a bowl, the 
sugar and beaten yolks, then gradually add a little of the boiling 
milk which will heat the eggs and sugar; then slowly stir them into 
the boiling milk; stir constantly until it thickens a little but do not 
leave long enough to curdle; then at once set the pail containing it 
in cold water or else turn it into a cold dish, as, if left in the hot 
pail, it will curdle. 

Molds when used for blanc mange, charlotte russe and all creams, 
should be first wet with cold water. 

See what we say about the action of neat on flavoring extracts in 
our introduction to " Cake." The flavoring is best added after the 
dish is taken from the stove. 

109 



410 - DESSEKTS 

Rennet Get the butcher to prepare the stomach of a calf for 

you, salt it well, and spread out to dry; when about half dry, shake 
the loose salt off and cut it into strips; then take a quart bottle, put 
in the strips, and fill with currant, Muscatine, or any other sweet 
wine; let stand 12 or 15 days, and it can be used. It is superior to 
the liquid rennet sold in the stores, and will keep 12 months or more. 

BLANC MANGE. 

Blanc Mange means literally "white food" or jelly, but in many 
recipes fruit or other coloring is now added to such desserts to im- 
prove the appearance and give variety. Blanc mange is made of 
many materials, like corn^starch, arrowroot, sago, tapioca, gelatine, 
etc. It may be garnished with bright colored jelly if desired, and 
eaten with whipped cream, cream and sugar, boiled custard, pre- 
serves, fruit juices, jellies or sauces. 

Arrowroot and several other blanc manges are given in our " In- 
valid Cookery" (which see). 

ALMOND BLANC MANQE.— Take 4 cups milk, 4 tablespoona 
of corn=starch and 4 tablespoons of sugar; boil all together until 
thick, and add 30 almonds, blanched and split. 

FARINA BLANC MANGE — Mix 5 tablespoons of farina in a 
little cold water, add a pinch of salt, and stir it into 1 quart of boil- 
ing milk; boil 10 to 15 minutes, and turn into a wet mold. 

Corn=Starch Blanc Mange is made the same way, but do not cook 
quite as long. It can also be made by using 1 tablesjjoon less of 
corn=starch, and adding 2 well^beaten eggs, which makes it richer. 

FRUIT BLANC MANGE — Stew the fresh fruit, strain off the 
juice and sweeten to taste. Put it in a double kettle and let it boil. 
While it is boiling, stir in corn^starch wet with a little cold water, in 
the proportion of 2 tablespoons of corn=starch to 1 pint of juice; stir 
it until it is cooked; then pour in molds wet in cold water, and set 
them away to cool. They may be cooled quickly by setting the cups 
in a pan of cold water and changing the water as it becomes warm. 
Eat with cream and sugar, or a rather thin boiled custard. 

Cherries or red raspberries are nicest, but other fruit may be 
used. Currant juice combined with raspberries is fine; strawberries 
are good, and a circle of fresh strawberries around the molds makes a 
good garnish. 

IRISH MOSS BLANC MANGE— Wash 1 cup moss in soda 
water to remove the saline taste, and rinse in several waters; steep it 
in 1 quart of milk till that is thickened; strain through a fine sieve, 



DESSEETS 411 

and sweeten and flavor to taste. Wet the mold in cold water and 
pour in the blanc mange. Serve with sugar and cream, eating it the 
day it is made. It is an addition to give a little preserved ginger 
with each plate. This is good for invalids without the ginger. 

RICE BLANC MANGE.— Use l pound ground rice, 1 quart 
milk, 3 ounces loaf sugar, 1 ounce fresh butter. Mix the rice to a 
smooth batter with about ^ pint of the milk; put the remainder into 
a sauce-pan with sugar, butter, and a small pinch of salt; bring to the 
boiling point; then stir in the rice and let it boil 10 minutes. After 
taking from the fire add any flavoring desired. Grease the mold 
with salad oil, and when perfectly set, it should turn out easily. 
Garnish with jam, or pour around a compote of any kind of fruit 
just before sending to the table. It is best made the day before it is 
wanted, A nice flavoring is made by steeping 3 laurel leaves in the 
milk and taking them out before the rice is added. 

VARIEGATED BLANC MANGE.— Make 2 blanc manges— 1 
white, of corn=starch, and 1 colored, of fruit; pour a little of each of 
these alternately into a mold, thus forming different colored layers, 
letting each layer set before pouring on the next. 

CUSTAEDS. 

Duck's eggs, when obtainable, add much to the richness and 
flavor of custards. Less are required than of the ordinary eggs. 
Four duck's eggs to a pint of milk makes a delicious custard. 

Custards may be made with cream or milk, and with eggs vary- 
ing in number. One tablespoon of sugar for each egg is the uniform 
rule for custards. 

A very plain custard can be made with 1 egg to a pint of milk 
and a good one with 3 eggs, but if it is wanted very rich 4 or even 5 
eggs can be used. The richer the custard the more likely it is to 
curdle. If it does curdle, take an egg-beater and thoroughly beat a 
bowlful at once and it can be saved, although many cooks do not 
know this. Floating Island can be saved the same way. For boiled 
custards the yolks give a smoother consistency than the whites. 

Boiled custards require constant attention from beginning to 
end; do not let them boil an instant too long, but take them from 
the stove as soon as they are done and they will thicken in cooling; 
do not leave them in the hot dish, or they will curdle, but pour them 
into cold molds, or set the vessel containing them in cold water. 

Custard ought to be thin enough to pour if it is to serve as a 
sauce, and should then be taken off an instant sooner. 



412 DESSEKTS 

If the yolks only are used in the custard, the whites may be 
utilized in various ways. They can be beaten up, sweetened and 
flavored and put on top, as in "Floating Island"; or after beating, 
they may be poached by dipping a spoonful at a time into boiling 
water or milk, and then spread on top of the custard, either dotted 
with bits of jelly or not, as preferred. The beaten whites can also be 
colored by beating in any bright colored jelly, using 1 tablespoon of 
jelly to the white of each egg. 

The Time to Bake custards is 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate 
oven. Bake them slowly with moderate heat; if there is too much 
heat they will partly turn to whey. They are done when firm in the 
center; or test them by thrusting in a knife or spoon — they are done 
when it comes out clean. 

BAKED CUSTARD.— Scald 4 cups milk; beat the yolks of 4 
eggs, add 4 tablesi3oons of sugar and ^ teaspoon 
of salt; pour on the scalded milk and bake in cups 
set in a dripping-pan with boiling water in the 
bottom; grate nutmeg on toi^. Time to bake, 
about 20 minutes. Or it can be steamed in a 
bowl or in cups. Six eggs are often used, but it is 
nice with 4. 

Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an evergreen tree 
now cultivated in the West India Islands, etc. It contains 
about &i of a pungent essential oil. It is aromatic, stimu- 
lant, and contains narcotic properties. Nutmeg is injur- 
ious to many people, causing what is called heart^burn. 

BOILED CUSTARD — Bring 2 cups milk to the boil; beat the 
yolks of 3 eggs, add 3 tablespoons of sugar, ^ saltspoon salt, and beat 
well; add the boiling milk slowly, set it in a double boiler and cook till 
thick; when jpartly cool stir in ^ teas^Doon of vanilla or any other flavor- 
ing preferred. One half teaspoon of corn=starch dissolved in a little 
cold water and boiled with the milk will prevent the custard from 
curdling which it is sometimes apt to do. A meringue can be made 
of the whites and spread over the top when cool, if desired. 

For a chocolate custard add |- square of chocolate, melted. For 
cocoanut add | cup grated cocoanut. Lemon or orange jelly can be 
cut in cubes and added if desired for variety, or canned or candied 
fruits, can be added. 

CORN=STARCH CUSTARD — Beat together the yolks of 3 eggs, 
1 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon corn^starch; add 2 cups boiling milk, let 
boil 10 minutes, add 1 teaspoon butter, and when cooled a little, ^ tea- 
spoon of any flavoring extract liked best. 




NUTMEG. 



SESSEETS 413 

ALMOND CUSTARDS.— Make a boiled custard with 1 pint of 
milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 4 tablesx)oons of sugar, and 1 saltspoon 
of salt. When cold, add -| cup of finely chox3ped almonds and 1 tea- 
spoon of vanilla. Serve in glasses with whipped cream sprinkled with 
finely = shredded almonds. 

APPLE CUSTARD. — Take 1 pint stewed apples, sweetened and 
cooled; 1 pint sweet milk, 4 eggs, well beaten. Mix the apple, milk 
and eggs, put in the baking=dish, grate a little nutmeg over the top, 
and bake ^ hour. 

ARROWROOT CUSTARD — Two cups of boiling milk, 3 heaping 
teaspoons arrowroot wet with a little cold milk, 2 tablespoons of sugar 
beaten with 1 egg. Mix the paste with the boiling milk, stirring 
briskly; take from the fire, stir in the egg and sugar, and boil 2 min- 
utes ; flavor to taste and add a pinch of salt. This is very light and 
delicate, and suitable for invalids. 

BANANA CUSTARD. — Make a plain boiled custard, and when 
cool, pour it over bananas cut in thin slices. 

FRUIT CUSTARDS — Make the same as banana custard, using 
any kind of fruit desired, either fresh or canned. 

BENGAL CUSTARD — Take 1 quart of milk, 3 tablespoons of 
rice flour, 3 welhbeaten eggs, 3 tablespoons of sugar, or more if liked. 
Scald the milk in a double boiler, beat the eggs, rice flour, and sugar 
together, and flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. Bake or steam in cus- 
tard=cups. If baked, place the cups in a dripping=pan of hot water 
and the cups will not be discolored. 

SOFT CARAMEL CUSTARD— Take 1 quart of milk, | cup 
of sugar, 6 eggs, ^ teaspoon of salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserv- 
ing a cupful. Beat the eggs and add the cold milk to them. Stir 
the sugar in a small frying-jDan until it becomes liquid and just be- 
gins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk; then add the beaten eggs 
and cold milk and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. 
Set away to cool. Serve in glasses. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.— Use i lb. Baker's prepared cocoa to 
1 quart of milk. Mix the milk and scraped chocolate to a thick paste; 
boil 15 minutes; while warm stir in 3 tablespoons sugar, and set it 
away to cool. Beat 8 eggs well, and stir into this mixture. Bake in 
cups. It may be served with a macaroon on top of each. 

COCOANUT CUSTARD — One quart milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 6 ta- 
blespoons of sugar, 2 tablespoons corn==starch and 1 teaspoon vanilla 



414 DESSEETS 

flavoring. Put milk, sugar and eggs on the stove in a fettle of hot 
water, or use a double boiler; when the milk begins to simmer add 
the corn=starch dissolved in a little cold milk; boil 3 minutes. When 
cool add the flavoring and cover the top with grated cocoanut. 

CUSTARD FLOAT. — Put 4 large tablespoons of chocolate in 1 
quart of milk; dissolve it well, and heat it in a double boiler; add the 
wellsbeaten yolks of 4 eggs, ^ cup of sugar, 1 tablespoon of corn= 
starch, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; boil about as long as corn=starch 
custard, and then put on ice to cool. When ready to serve pour 
into a glass dish, and put the welhbeaten whites of the 4 eggs or 
top. It will be relished by those who like chocolate. 

LEMON CUSTARD.— Take 1 pint of fresh milk, 1 lemon, -| cup 
sugar, yolks of 4 eggs. Put the milk to scald in the double boiler; 
add the grated rind and strained juice of the lemon to the sugar; 
beat the yolks of eggs stiff, then mix with the sugar and lemon, and 
stir it into the milk when scalding hot; take it from the fire immedi- 
ately as it must not boil. When it has cooled a little fill it into the 
custard=cups. The white of 1 egg and 2 tablespoons of sugar may be 
made into frosting and a portion placed on each custard. 

RENNET CUSTARD.— Heat 1 quart of milk until it is luke- 
warm; add 2 tablespoons of rennet (see our recii^e for preparing it> 
although it can be bought at the stores), 2 tablespoons of lemon 
juice, and 4 tablespoons of sugar; stir the ingredients gently to- 
gether; as soon as they are mixed pour the custard immediately into 
the bowl in which it is to be served. Set it on the ice as soon as it 
is cool, and serve it for dessert, with preserves or cream and sugar. 
It will be firm in about 2 hours, and should be served soon after. 

OST KAKA [of Sweden). — This is rennet custard served with 
cinnamon and cream. 

CUSTARD SOUFFLE.— Use 2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons butter, 
•| cup sugar, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Scald 
the milk in a double boiler, and when hot add the yolks of the eggs 
well beaten with the sugar and flour; take from the fire as soon as it 
begins to thicken, and stir in the butter; beat the whites of the eggs 
to a stiff froth, and cut it into the custard lightly, and bake \ hour in 
a slow oven. Servo as soon as taken from the oven. 

STEAMED CUSTARD.— Take 5 eggs (throw out the yolks of 2, 
and beat), 3 tablesiDoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, a chij) or two of 
lemon or orange, and a little vanilla. Scald 1 quart of milk, take off 



DESSEETS 415 

the scum, and pour it on the beaten eggs. Set it to pteaming in a 
close covered vessel, and steam 5 or 6 minutes; then set on ice. 

. TAPIOCA CUSTARD.— Take 1 quart of fresh milk, 2 eggs," | 
cup of pearl tapioca, ^ cup of white sugar. Soak the tapioca over 
night, and the next morning drain off all the water while the milk is 
scalding in a double boiler; when the milk is hot, add the tapioca 
and let it simmer 10 minutes; beat the sugar and eggs together, and 
add to the milk and tapioca; flavor with cinnamon, vanilla or nut- 
meg. 

TOMATO CUSTARD.— Peel and stew until thoroughly cooked 1 
quart of ripe tomatoes; strain through a sieve to remove the seeds; 
beat 3 fresh eggs very light and add them to the strained tomatoes 
with a teacup of white sugar, a pinch of salt, butter the size of an 
egg, and a little nutmeg. Bake in a quick oven 15 or 20 minutes. 
This is nice served hot or cold. 

VARIOUS CUSTARDS.— Those without experience should ad- 
here closely to the recipes given, but cooks with a little experience 
can produce a variety of custards by varying the flavors used, leaving 
the body of the custard the same. Oranges cut fine (after being 
peeled and seeded) can be used, simply adding them to a good 
custard; so can canrccd or candied fruits, chopjjed almonds, grated 
cocoanut, chocolate, caramels, macaroons, etc., thus making various 
custards. An ingenious cook can devise many changes, and make 
attractive dishes, and we advise experienced cooks to try it. 

CKEAMS, PUFFS, ETC. 
CHOCOLATE CREAM — Heat 4 cups milk and a pinch of salt; 
when hot add 3 tablespoons of flour; after it thickens add yolks of 3 
eggs, beaten to a cream with 3 tablespoons of sugar; cook a few min- 
utes, and when done add 1 teaspoon vanilla. Beat the 3 whites stifp, 
add 3 tablespoons of sugar, then 3 tablespoons of grated chocolate. 
Spread it on the cream and brown it in the oven. 

COFFEE CREAM — Mix \ cup sugar, \ cup strong coffee and 1 
pint rich cream; whip till it is all froth; put in stem glasses, freeze, 
and serve in the same glasses. 

HAMBURG CREAM — Grate the rind and squeeze the juice o9. 
1 lemon into 1^ cups sugar; beat the yolks of 5 eggs, put into a pan, 
add the sugar, and set in hot water, stirring all the time; when the 
gggs begin to cook, add the 5 whites, which should be beaten anf' 
ready; then remove and let cool. 



416 DESSEKTS 

MOCK CREAM Take 1 quart of new milk, 1 fresh egg, 1 tea- 
spoon of corn^^starch, 1 teaspoon of white sugar. Scald the milk in a 
double boiler, or tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water. Beat the 
starch, sugar and egg thoroughly, and stir into the milk when it is 
scalding hot. Let it get thoroughly cold before serving. 

PINK CREAM. — Use 3 gills raspberry syrup mixed with ^ 
pound of sugar and 1 pint of thick, sweet cream. Whisk until very- 
light, and serve in whip glasses. 

RICE CREAM — Boil 1 cup rice till tender, in new milk; add 
white sugar to whiten, pile on a dish, and spread slices of currant 
jelly or preserved fruit on top of it. Then take the welhbeaten 
whites of 5 eggs, sweetened with powdered sugar, and add 1 table- 
spoon of rich cream and flavor with vanilla; spread this on top like 
snow. 

RICE CREAM No. 2 — Cook 4 tablespoons of dry rice in 4 
cups milk, then add yolks of 4 eggs, 4 tablespoons of sugar, and a 
pinch of salt; cook till done and add 1 teaspoon of any flavoring de- 
sired. Beat the whites of the eggs, add 2 tablespoons of sugar, 
spread it on the cream, and brown in the oven. 

TAPIOCA CREAM. — Soak 1 cup tapioca in 2 cups water over 
night. In the morning add 4 cups rich milk, put it in the double 
boiler and cook ^ hour; then add ^ cup sugar (scant), a little lemon 
flavor, and the yolks of 3 eggs; stir continually, letting it cook 
gently for 3 minutes, and then stir in the 3 whites of egg, beaten 
stiff. Pour it into a glass dish and serve cold. 

For a change instead of adding the 3 whites of egg the tapioca 
can be allowed to get cold, then spread on a layer of jelly and cover 
with a meringue. Or, leave off the jelly, cover with a soft frost- 
ing, and brown slightly in the oven. 

SAGO FLOAT — Soak 4 tablespoons of sago in cold water ^ 
hour; then cook till clear. Heat to boiling 4 cups milk, add the sago, 
2 beaten eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 heaping tablespoon of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little milk, and salt and flavoring to taste. Cook in a 
double boiler; when thick and creamy pour it into a pretty dish and 
dot it over with a meringue in spoonfuls; brown delicately and serve 
cold. 

AIR BALLS — Make as for cream of tartar biscuit, and cut in 
small squares. Fry them in smoking hot fat, like doughnuts, lay 
them on paper to drain off the grease, and dip them in hot simmered 
molasses, which should be ready at hand. Serve hot. 



DESSEKTS 417 

CRACKER DESSERT — Put a square cracker in a saucer, pour 
just enough boiling water on it to soften it; put a teaspoon of jelly 
in the center, sprinkle sugar over, and pour sweet cream over all. 
Very nice also for invalids. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Beat the whites of 7 eggs to a stiff 
froth; whip 1 pint of cream and add it; add sugar and flavor to 
taste; pour it over sliced cake. Set in a cool place after making. 

JELLY AND RICE DESSERT — Soak 1 teacup rice; when done 
to a jelly add 1 teaspoon of currant jelly and ^ teacup of fruit juice; 
boil a few minutes; put in molds, and eat with cream and sugar. 

FLOATING ISLAND.— Beat well the yolks of 4 eggs, add 5 
tablespoons of sugar, and stir it into 1 quart of sweet milk; when 
cool, flavor and pour into a dish. Heap upon it the 5 well=beaten 
whites, to which a little sugar is added, and ^ cup jelly. Dot with 
bits of jelly. 

LAYER PUDDING (Brown Layer) — Take 2 cups milk, ^ cup 
sugar, 2 tablespoons scraped chocolate, and 2 rounded tablespoons 
of corn=starch; moisten the starch in a small portion of the milk, and 
place the remainder in a double boiler with the chocolate until it is 
scalding hot; then add the corn=starch and sugar and stir it con- 
stantly until it thickens; then put it in a buttered pudding dish or 
mold to cool. 

Yellow Layer. — Take 2 cups milk, ^ cup sugar, yolks of 2 eggs, 2 
tablespoons of corn^starch and ^ teaspoon of extract of vanilla; scald 
the milk as above, saving a portion to moisten the corn^starch; when 
the milk is hot add the egg yolk, corn^starch and sugar, and stir 
until thick; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and put this in the 
mold to cool, over the brown layer of pudding. 

Pink Layer. — Take 2 cups milk, ^ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons corn* 
starch dissolved in berry juice, or the berries may be crushed fine 
and added without straining; make like the other layers, and put this 
layer in the mold over the yellow layer. Then beat the 2 whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth, with ^ cup pulverized sugar, and place it on top. 

This pudding can be made of water instead of milk, if milk is 
scarce, and if eggs are scarce the yellow part may be colored with a 
little saffron instead of the yolk of egg, and the frosting omitted. 
Serve with sweet cream, or any liquid pudding sauce preferred. 

KISS PUDDING — Beat the yolks of 3 eggs with | cup sugar 
until light; add 1^ tablespoons corn=starch wet with a little cold 
milk; stir in 2 cups boiling milk till thick; then let cool. Boat tlie 
whites of the 3 eggs with ^ cup sugar, spread it over the top, and 
brown in the oven. 
2t 



418 DESSEKTS 

MOCK LEMON JELLY.— To 4 cups boiling water add 1 small 
teacup of sugar, and 5 tablespoons of vinegar, or less if very strong; 
boil 2 or 3 minutes and stir in 2 level tablespoons of corn-starch dis- 
solved in cold water; boil 2 minutes and add 2 teaspoons lemon 
extract; let it cool before serving, 

DESSERT PUFFS.— Take the welhbeaten whites of 4 eggs, 2 
cups cream, 2 cups milk, 1 cup sifted flour (heaped), 1 cup powdered 
sugar (scant), a little salt, and a little grated rind of lemon; beat 
them all together until very light; bake in gem pans, and then sift 
pulverized sugar over them. Eat with sauce flavored with lemon. 

RICE DESSERT — Spread rice that has been cooked quite 
thick, on a plate; spread over it a layer of strawberry jam, then a 
layer of rice on top. Sprinkle powdered sugar on top and serve 
with cream. 

RICE WITH CUSTARD— Boil 2 cups rice in 4 cups of water, 
with a little salt; when done turn into small cups. When cold turn 
onto a dish. Make a boiled custard with yolks of 2 eggs, 2 cups 
milk and 1 teaspoon of corn=starch; flavor with lemon. When cold 
pour it over the rice balls. 

RICE MOLDS — Cook rice in the morning and turn it into but^ 
tered teacups; when cold turn 
them on to a platter, make a 
little cavity in the top of each 
one and fill the opening with 
any kind of jelly liked best. 
Serve sweetened and flavored 
cream with them. Or put the kice mold. 

rice in a large mold first; when 

cold turn out on a plate, make a cavity in the top, fill it with jelly 
and put fruit around the base, as shown in our illustration. 

MOLDED SNOW — Scald 8 cups of milk and mix ^ cup of corn= 
starch, with 1 cup of milk, using 1 quart of milk in all. Stir the 
diluted corn=starch into the hot milk, adding also 2 tablespoons of 
sugar. Cook 15 minutes; then add the whites of 3 eggs beaten stiff 
and pour into a mold. Chill and serve. 

SCANDINAVIAN ROGROD.— Take 1| quarts of water and add 
1^ quarts of any acid fruit juice, like currant, and 2 heaping cups 
sugar, and bring to a boil. A little stick cinnamon tied in a bag 
should be dropped in and later taken out, as it can be used in that 




DESSEKTS 419 

way often. While boiling, stir in slowly, to keep it from lumping, 1 
lb. soaked sago, or 1^ lbs. arrowroot; then boil 15 minutes, and turn 
into molds or cups to cool. Serve with sugar and cream when cold. 
(A favorite dish in Sweden and Norway). 

SPONGE BISCUIT FOR DESSERT— Take 2 cups flour, 1| cups 
sugar, sifted, 6 eggs, beaten separate, lemon flavor. Beat the whites, 
add the beaten yolks, then the lemon flavor, then the sugar; mix well 
and add flour last. Bake in patty^pans, with sugar sprinkled over 
the top to glaze. Serve with a rich liquid sauce. 

FKUIT DESSEETS. 

See also what is said at the close of this section under the head 
of " Additional Fruit Desserts." 

APPLE FLOAT — Bake 3 apples (with no water around them); 
when done, scrape the pulp all out, thoroughly mix in 1 cup sugar 
and let it cool. Then add the well=beaten white of 1 egg, and beat 
all together thoroughly. Form it into shape and pour around it a 
custard made of 1 quart of milk, 1 teaspoon corn^starch, yolks of 3 
eggs, sugar to sweeten, and lemon or vanilla flavor. 

APPLE KUCHEN — Make a pie^crust a trifle richer than biscuit, 
roll out and place it in the bottom of the pan in which meat is 
roasted. Peel cooking apples, slice them into eighths, and place them 
across the pan, close together in even rows, leaving a small space 
between the rows, and pressing the inner edge of the apple slightly 
into the crust; sprinkle cofifee "A" sugar over the apple, and a little 
nutmeg; bake in the oven until the apples are cooked. This will 
make a simple and attractive dessert. 

APPLE SNOW.— Make a boiled custard with the yolks of 3 
eggs, 2 cups milk, 4 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, and ^ tea- 
spoon vanilla. Beat the 3 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then 
beat in 1 cup pulverized sugar and, little by little, 2 cups unsweet- 
ened apple sauce. Serve, using the custard as a sauce. 

Apple Snow No. 2. — Sift steamed apples to make 2 cups of pulp. 
Beat the whites of 3 eggs stiff and stir together. To every table- 
spoon of apple use 1 teaspoon of sugar until the apple is all beaten 
in. Beat the whole stiff and keep cold. Serve with cream or custard. 

RED CURRANT SNOW.— Use 2 cups boiling water, 2 table- 
spoons of corn=starch and 1 cup sugar; when cooked thick remove 
from fire and add the juice of 2 cups of red currants crushed and 



420 DESSEKTS 

pressed through the colander. Beat the whites of 2 eggs, add a little 
sugar and pour over all. 

RASPBERRY SNOW Proceed as directed for red currant 

snow. 

STRAWBERRY SNOW — Proceed as directed for red currant 
snow. 

Other Fruits can be used the same way, producing many varieties. 

BANANA- DESSERT.— Allow for 12 bananas 1^ cups fruit juice 
(any kind preferred) and 1 cup sugar. Peel the bananas and stew 
them gently in this syrup 20 minutes; then take out and lay them in 
a glass dish. Boil the syrup until it thickens and pour it over the 
bananas. Serve cold. 

BANANA DESSERT, No. 2 — Peel and slice 6 bananas; peel, 
slice and seed 6 oranges; arrange in alternate layers, sprinkling on 
powdered sugar, and squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over all and serve cold! 

BERRY DESSERTS.— In 2 cups water sim- 
mer 4 cups of any berries desired, sweetening to 
taste; boil 2 tablespoons of corn^starch in 2 cups 
water for 15 minutes; then stir in the fruit, turn 
it into molds and set it in a cold place to harden. 
Serve cold, with cream, whipped cream or mock 
whipped cream. Or (2) arrowroot can be used 
instead of the corn=starch if preferred; also fresh 
fruit can be used instead of the stewed. 




AKEOWBOOT. 



FRUIT CUPS — Stir 2 teaspoons baking powder into 2 cups 
sifted flour; add water to make a soft dough. Butter coffee-cups, 
drop in a little of the dough, then 2 or 3 teaspoons of chopped 
peaches, then enough more dough to fill the cups about half full. 
Put the cups in a pan of hot water, set in the oven, cover closely and 
steam 30 minutes. Eat with sugar and cream or whipped cream. 

Stoned cherries, currants, dates, figs, strawberries, raspberries, or any 
other fruit can be used instead of the j)eaches, and a variety of 
desserts produced in this way. 

COCOANUT CORN=STARCH.— Bring 4 cups milk to the boil; 
moisten 2 tablespoons of corn=starch with a little of the hot milk, add 
the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs, ^ cup of grated cocoanut and 1 salt- 
spoon of salt; stir all into the boiling milk until it thickens. Beat 
the 4 whites of eggs with ^ cup of powdered sugar, spread it on top 



DESSEETS 421 

of the corn-starch when it is partly cooled, and sprinkle cocoanut 
on top. 

SNOWED FRUIT.— Spread a layer of sliced apples, pears, 
peaches, bananas, pineapple or other fruit; then put on a layer of 
dessicated or fresh grated cocoanut and sugar, then another layer of 
. fruit, and so on alternately. Cover the top lightly with cocoanut and 
sugar. Eat with or without cream. 

Berries of any kind may also be used instead of the larger fruit. 

TAPIOCA NUT CREAM — Soak ^ pound of pearl tapioca over 
night in 1^ cups of cold water. Cover with 3 cups of cold water and 
cook in a double boiler until transparent, then add ^ cup of sugar, 
and the juice and grated rind of a lemon; turn into small molds. 
Chill and turn into a glass dish garnished with apricots and whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored with chopped walnuts and vanilla. 

THICKENED CREAM.— Stir together i cup of rich milk, | cup 
white sugar, and 1 wine=glass of rose= water; add the beaten yolks of 
2 eggs, and stir all into 1 quart of rich cream ; set it over hot coals, 
let it just come to a boil, stirring all the time; then take ofp, pour 
into a glass bowl, and set away to cool. Eat with any berries, like 
strawberries, or raspberries, or with sweetmeats. 

FRENCH JELLIES — Let a layer of melted jelly cool in the bot- 
tom of a mold; then add a layer of any kind of fresh fruit, or soft 
dried fruit; then add another layer of jelly, and so on until the mold 
is filled. Many delicious desserts can be thus produced. 

BIRD'S NEST — Take 6 apples, peel, sweeten and bake, and 
then cover with a custard made of 2 tablespoons sugar, 3 yolks of 
eggs, 3 cups milk, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; bake till firm. 

FRUIT DESSERT.— Cover the bottom of a berry disli with a 
layer of sliced oranges; sprinkle on pulverized sugar, then put on a 
layer of strawberries, and so on alternately until the dish is full. 
Over the whole pour orange juice in the proportion of 3 oranges to a 
quart of berries. Let stand about an hour, and just before serving 
sprinkle with pounded ice. 

Fruit Dessert No. 2 — Cut bananas, oranges and pineapple in small 
pieces; arrange them in alternate layers in a glass dish, with pow- 
dered sugar and grated cocoanut between each layer. Squeeze the 
juice of a lemon on top and set on ice for 4 or 5 hours. The last 
thing before serving sprinkle grated cocoanut freely on top. It 
makes a nice dessert with white cake. 

Various other fruits may also be combined for fruit desserts. 



422 DESSERTS 

such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, peaches, etc., and thus a 
variety of pleasing combinations and flavors can be produced. Ex- 
ercise your ingenuity in devising new combinations. 

FRUIT DESSERT No. 3-— Put 4 cups of sliced apples or 
peaches or pears (or 2 cups of any nice canned fruit) in a pudding 
dish and set it on the stove to heat, while a batter is whisked to pour 
over it. Make the batter with 2 beaten eggs, 2 cups sweet milk, 2 
tablespoons melted butter, 2| cups sifted flour, 1 heaping teaspoon of 
baking powder and a pinch of salt. When the fruit is bubbling hot, 
pour the batter over it, and bake in the oven until it is thoroughly 
done. Serve warm with cream and sugar. Many varieties can be 
thus produced. 

FRUIT WHIP. — Take either raspberries, strawberries, peaches, 
nectarines, apricots, pears or other fruit, sweeten to taste, mash, and 
add 4 well-beaten eggs for every quart of fruit, stir together well and 
set on ice. Serve either with or without cream, or with whipped 
cream or mock whipped cream. 

LEMON CREAM — Take the pulp of 1 lemon cut fine with a 
knife (not chopjDed), add the grated rind, 1 cup sugar, and | cup 
water and bring to a boil; add 2 well beaten eggs and 1 tablespoon 
flour rubbed smooth in water; when it thickens take from the fire. 
Let it cool before serving. 

ORANGE DRESSING.— Take the juice of 3 oranges and 1 lem- 
on; add ^ cup sugar and 1 egg; beat all together, bring to the boil, 
simmer 5 minutes and strain. Add a little grated peel of orange and 
lemon if desired. It makes an excellent dressing for fruits like sliced 
oranges, bananas, etc. Keep on ice till ready to serve. 

ORANGES AND COCOANUT.— Peel and slice oranges, put a 
layer in a glass dish, sprinkle on white sugar, cover with a layer of 
dessicated or fresh grated cocoanut, add another layer of oranges and 
sugar, and so on alternately, with cocoanut on top. It should be pre- 
pared in the morning and left in a cool place, or on ice, till tea time. 
Layers of pineapple can be added also if desired. A glass of lemon 
and orange juice mixed and poured over all will be an improvement. 

ORANGE FLOAT. — Stir 4 tablespoons sugar in 4 tablespoons 
water; pour on 4 cups boiling water and stir in 1 cup sugar and the 
juice of 1 lemon; when it thickens (in about ^ hour) take from the 
stove, and as it cools pour it over 5 or 6 sliced and seeded oranges. 
Oranges and bananas mixed are also nice. It can be eaten thus, or 




Desserts 428 

if desi '"ed spread over the top the beaten whites of 3 eggs sweetened 
and fl/ivored with a few drops of vanilla. Eat with cream. 

OI^ANGE PUDDING.— Peel 3 sweet oranges, slice, take out 
seeds, and pour on 1 cup white sugar. Let 2 cups milk get boiling 
hot, add yolks of 2 eggs well beaten and 1 teaspoon of corn-starch 
made smooth with a little cold milk; when thickened pour it over the 
fruit. Make a meringue with the 2 whites of eggs and 1 tablespoon 
of sugar, spread it on top, and harden a few minutes in the oven 
Serve cold. 

ORANGE AND RHUBARB.— Into a fruit 
dish put a layer of sliced oranges, sprinkle on 
sugar, add a layer of cold rhubarb sauce well 
sweetened, and so on alternately. Let stand ^ 
hour before serving. 

The Okange belongs to the citrus family, to which the 
citron, lime, shaddock, pomaloe, etc., belong. They are all oeange. 

characterized by varying quantities of citric acid, citrate of 

potash and sugar in their fleshy parts. The peeled fruit contains about 86% of 
water, 8 to lOj^ of sugar, and small quantities of citric acid, albumen, cellulose, etc. 
In buying oranges remember that the sweetest ones have rough, reddish skins, 
while those with a thin, light yellow skin, will be more juicy, but also more acid. 
They are not ripe when picked if they have a greenish tinge. Oil of neroli is ob- 
tained from orange flowers. The fruit is quite wholesome. 

PEAR MERINGUE — Cook 8 canned pears in their syrup until 
clear and the syrup is thickened, then lay them in a glass dish, or 
one that may be sent to the table. Beat the whites of 3 eggs to a 
stiff froth with sugar, spread it over the pears and brown the top in 
the oven. Serve with cake — sponge cake is nice with it. 

Other canned fruits can be prepared the same way, and many varie- 
ties produced. 

PEAR FLUMMERY — Line a dish with lady fingers, or any kind 
of stale, plain cake; pour on a thin boiled custard, and on this spread 
a layer of sliced and sugared j)ears; cover it with a frosting made of 
the whites of eggs beaten stiff with xoulverized sugar. Serve at once. 

Peach Flummery can be made the same way by using peaches 
instead of the pears. 

Oranges, plums, bananas or other fresh fruits can also be used, 
thus producing various kinds of flummery. 

Also any good jam, jelly, marmalade or fruit sauce can be used 
instead of the pears, and many varieties can thus be made. 

PEACHES AND RICE.— Spread a layer of plain boiled rice on 
a platter, s^jrinkle sugar over it, on this put a layer of pared and 
sliced peaches, sxjrinkle sugar over the whole and serve with cream 



424 DESSERTS 

PINEAPPLE PUDDING.— To 5 eggs add 1 grated pineapple, 1 
cup sugar, 1 cup sweet milk and a little salt; boil until thick, in a 
double boiler, pour into a mold and set on ice till cold. Serve with 
whipped or our mock whipped cream. 

PRUNE WHIP — Take 2 cups prunes, sweeten to taste and stew; 
when cold add whites of 4 eggs, beaten stifp, stir all together till 
light, put in a dish and bake 20 minutes. Serve with cream. 

Other fruit whips can be made the same way. 

FRUIT PUFFS — Take | teacup of sugar, ^ teacup of milk, 2 
eggs, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, a saltspoon of salt, and flour to 
make a batter a trifle thicker than for griddle cakes; stir in a cup of 
seeded and chopped raisins or other fruit. Butter teacups and fill ^ 
full of batter, set the cups in a steamer, put on the cover and steam 1 
hour. This quantity will make 6 cups. Eat hot with orange pud- 
ding sauce. 

QUINCE SNOW.— Take the whites of 2 eggs, ^ cup sugar, and 5 
oz. of quince marmalade; put it in a dish shaped like a pyramid, and 
bake it a light yellow. Use other marmalades the same way, and so 
produce many varieties. 

SAGO WITH FRUIT.— Take 1 cup sago 
and soak it in half milk and water; then add 1 
quart of boiling milk, stirring until it becomes 
thick, and let it cool. Put a layer of peaches, 
pears, strawberries, raspberries, bananas, pine- 
apple, oranges, or any other fruit preferred, into 
a pudding dish, using a little sugar if needed; 
then put on a layer of sago; then another of 
fruit, and so on until the dish is full. Set it on 
ice; serve with sweetened cream. 

Sago is a starch obtained mainly from the pith of ^^°*^ palm. 

the sago palm. A single tree is said to yield 500 to 600 lbs. of sago. It is mainly 
starch, is easily di;;ested and so is adapted to invalids, but is not very nutritious. 
Portland sago, or Portland arrowroot is a starch obtained from the tubers of a 
species of arum. 

STRAWBERRY FOAM.— Take 1 quart strawberries, crush, 
sprinkle on ^ cup sugar and set in a cool place till serving time. 
Beat 2 eggs stiff, add 2 tablespoons sugar, stir into the crushed straw- 
berries and serve, decorated with large ripe berries. 

Raspberries and other fruits can be used the same way, thus produc- 
ing several varieties. 

TAPIOCA WITH FRUIT.— Pick over and wash ^ cup pearl tap- 
oca; put it in 3 cups boiling water and cook 1 hour, or till soft and 




DESSEKTS 425 

transparent, stirring often; add 1 scant teaspoon of salt, ^ cup sugar, 
and I cup currant jelly; stir till the jelly is all dissolved, pour into a 
mold, and serve very cold with sugar and cream. Instead of the jelly, 
^ cup lemon juice, or any acid fruit jelly may be used; or use 1 cup 
canned apricot, peach or quinc«. 

In their season 2 cups of ripe strawberries, raspberries, black- 
berries, chopped peaches, pears, or other fruits can be used instead 
of the jelly, adding more sugar. These make delicious summer 
desserts. 

TURON — Whip the whites of 4 eggs to a stifp froth; chop 7 oz. 
of almonds, and sprinkle by degrees into the egg; work in sufficient 
sugar to make a flexible paste, stirring well the whole time. Flavor 
with lemon essence, and put into a mold. 

This recipe may be varied by using chestnuts, walnuts or pea- 
nuts instead of the almonds, thus producing several varieties. 

FRUIT TRIFLE — Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a stifp froth; add 
2 tablespoons of sugar, and the same of raspberry jam and currant 
jelly. Eat with sponge cake, and it is delicious. 

MOCK STRAWBERRIES.— Peel and cut rhubarb in small 
pieces and boil until tender; drain, and add 4 tablespoons of straw- 
berry juice to each pound of rhubarb; add enough molasses to 
sweeten and color a pale pink. Serve as cold as possible. (2) An- 
other dessert may be made by putting slices of sponge cake in a 
dish; prepare the fruit as above, and while warm pour it over the 
cake; when cold cover the top with custard or whipped cream. 

Mock Raspberries may be made the same way, using raspberry 
instead of strawberry juice. 

As rhubarb possesses the property of absorbing the taste of 
other fruits it can be made to taste exactly like them by being mixed 
with them and allowed to stand for a time. Pumpkin will absorb the 
taste of other fruits in the same way. 

Mock Strawberries No. 2. — Use 1 part apples to 3 parts peaches; se- 
lect choice, ripe fruit, and pare, core, and cut it into dice about as 
large as strawberries; put them in a dish in alternate layers, spread 
on sugar thickly, and spread crushed ice on top; let stand 2 or 3 
hours, and then thoroughly mix them together; serve after they have 
stood some time longer. 

TUTTI FRUTTI. — Prepare a cocoanut by opening the 2 eyes and 
letting out the milk which must be strained and kept; break the nut 
with a hatchet, or saw it in two, take out the meat, peel oil' the brown 
skin and grate. Cut 2 bananas in quarters lengthwise, and then cut 



426 DESSEKTS 

in slices. Have ready a chopped pineapple, a pint of strawberiies or 
raspberries, and the grated rind and juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange. 
Put a layer of the fruits and cocoanut in the bottom of a glass dish, 
then a layer of granulated sugar, then another layer of fruit and co- 
coanut and so on until the dish is full. Pour over all, the milk of 
the cocoanut and the juice of the lemon and orange. Dip from the 
bottom when serving. 

FRUIT ON TOAST. — Choose good apricots, halve them, remove 
the stones, put each half on a nice piece of bread, having the hollow 
side up, and arrange them in a well buttered dish; put a little butter 
in the hollow of each piece of fruit, sprinkle on sugar, and bake in a 
moderate oven about 25 or 30 minutes. When done, put them in a 
dish, pour over them the syrup from the baking dish, and serve hot. 
Peaches, pears, bananas and large plums can be treated in the same 
way. 

ADDITIONAL FRUIT DESSERTS.— There are no more deli- 
cious or acceptable desserts than those made from fruits in their sea- 
son. In addition to the recipes for fruit desserts given above we 
would refer our readers to such recipes as those for " Fruit Ice 
Cream," " Nesselrode Pudding," " Iced Strawberry Pudding," "Fro- 
zen Fruit," "Fruit Molds," and several others in our chapter on "Ice 
Cream, Water Ices, etc." 

Also, in the chapter on " Home Candy Making," see such reci- 
pes as those for " Fruit Creams," " Cream Coaled Fruits," " Cream 
Walnuts, Dates Figs, Cherries, etc.," " Glaces " " Crystallized Cher- 
ries," "Crystallized Nuts," "Frosted, Iced or Crystallized Fruits," 
and some others. 

Many delicious fruit desserts will also be found in the articles on 
"Cooked Fruits," and " Compotes" (which see), and in the chapter 
on " Puddings," and several in the following section on " Gelatine 
Preparations." By using these, in addition to the recipes given 
above, a very extensive list of fruit desserts will be found. 



DESSERTS 427 

GELATINE PREPARATIONS. 

TAKE NOTICE.— A tablespoonfol of gpelatine weighs abont 1^^ ounce. 

To prepare gelatine first soak it in a small quantity of cold water, 
and then add hot water to dissolve it; or it may be placed in the 
required amount of cold water and set on the back of the range 
where it will heat and dissolve gradually. About 1 to 1|- cups of 
cold water to the ounce of gelatine is the right proportion. 

Eemember that gelatine should not boil, and never needs cook- 
ing. It is a good plan to strain it, after it is dissolved, through a 
fine strainer. 

Gelatine can be used most satisfactorily in jellies, blanc mange, 
creams and ices. Never use more than will suffice to make a jelly 
strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. More 
is needed in summer than in winter, a scant ounce being sufficient in 
summer for 1 pint of liquid, while a little over ^ ounce will do in 
winter — this being the rule for jellies, while creams require a little 
less. It is best to set them on ice, when possible, as soon as they are 
ready. 

Molds should be buttered or oiled to facilitate taking the jellies 
from them; or they may be wet with cold water before filling. If 
jellies stick to the molds, set them for a moment in hot water, and 
they can be easily removed. 

Gelatine is prepared from the skin and bones of animals. It requires a care- 
ful selection of materials and cleanly preparation, to obtain a wholesome product. 
The use of white of egg to clarify the jelly is not needed now, as was formerly 
the case, because the gelatine is clarified during the process of manufacture. 

The changes of opinion regarding the nutritive value of gelatine are inter- 
esting. In the 18th century gelatine was considered the most nourishing constitu- 
ent of meat. About the middle of the 19th century the French Academy of Science 
made a special investigation of the subject, and as a result a complete change of 
opinion took place. It was shown that gelatine alone could not sustain life, a 
reaction occurred, and very mistakenly all food value was denied it. Further ex- 
periments, however, have put it in its right place, and it is now admitted that 
while it cannot sustain life alone, it has some value as food, biit it must hold a 
subordinate place, and it is only valuable when eaten with other things which sup- 
ply the elements which it lacks. It has some slight value in convalescence, al- 
though very much less than many people imagine. When pure it is tasteless and 
devoid of flavor. 

Isinglass. — This was formerly obtained from the swimming bladder of the 
sturgeon and came from Russia, but now it is obtained from many other fish and 
comes from South America, the East Indies, Canada, etc. The best is almost color- 
less, is free from fish odor, taste and smell, and dissolves freely in any warm liquid. 

Chemically there is litttle difference between isingh\ss and gelatine, and what 
we say about the nourishing properties of gelatine applies equally to isinglass. 
Tests: A little pure isinglass put into cold water swells, and becomes soft, white 
and opaque, while gelatine will become transparent and glass=like. In hot water 
isinglass dissolves with little or no residuum, while gelatine leaves a considerable 
deposit. In vinegar, isinglass swells into a jelly and all trace of its structure is 
soon destroyed, while gelatine hardens and retains its form. These are the best 
tests for distinguishing between them. 



428 DESSEKTS 

Jelly of Different Colors. — This can be prepared by having jelly of 
the desired colors prepared separately; then put a little of one in a 
mold and let it cool; then pour in a little of the other and let that cool, 
and so on, allowing each layer to set before putting in the next. 
Blanc mange and jelly can be combined thus very prettily. 

ALMOND BLANC MANGE.— Put an ounce of gelatine to soak 
in a teacup of cold water; set on the stove where it will heat gradual- 
ly and dissolve. Blanch 24 sweet almonds, and pound them in a 
mortar; mix with 1 pint of milk and 1 pint of cream, scald the mix- 
ture in a double boiler, or tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water; 
sweeten to taste, add the dissolved gelatine, stir thoroughly, and pour 
into a mold to set. 

BANANAS IN JELLY. — Prepare the gelatine, sweeten it, and 
when cool put a layer of sliced bananas and oranges in the bottom 
of a prepared mold or glass dish, then pour on a little of the gel- 
atine, let it set, and then put in another layer of fruit, and so on 
alternately until the dish is full; set on ice till ready to serve. 
Bananas and strawberries can be used the same way. For a variety, 
soak the gelatine in cold water, and then dissolve it in hot lemonade; 
then use it with the fruit as above. 

APPLES IN JELLY — Choose tart, medium sized apples, pare, 
core, and simmer them till tender; skim out the apples but retain the 
liquor they were cooked in and to it add 1 cuj) sugar for each pound 
of fruit; boil, skim, put in the apples (keeping them whole) and cook 
till they are clear. Slice lemons, remove the seeds, and cook them 
with the apples, using 1 lemon for each | doz. apples. Skim out the 
apples, put them in the dish in which they are to be served, and on 
each one put a slice of lemon. Into the syrup pour gelatine, which 
have previously dissolved and ready, (using about 1 oz. of gelatine 
for 6 or 8 apples); stir till cool, strain it over the fruit, set away to 
cool, and serve with cream. 

CHOCOLATE CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Cover 1 ounce of gelatine 
with cold water, shave 3 ounces of Baker's jjrepared cocoa, and mix it 
with 1 pint of sweet cream and the gelatine. Put it in a porcelain 
kettle over a slow fire, and stir it until it boils and is well mixed. 
Beat the yolks of 8 eggs and whites of 4 together until very light; 
then stir them in the mixture, with ^ lb. of white sugar; simmer it 
over the fire but do not let it boil; pour it in a bowl and whip it to a 
strong froth. Having lined your pans or molds with sponge cake fill 
them with the mixture and set them on ice, or in a cool place. 



GELATINE PREPAEATIONS 429 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. ( Without eggs).— Soak 2 tablespoons of 
gelatine in a little cold milk 2 hours. Take 2 coffee=cups cream, 1 
teacup milk; whip the cream stiff in a large bowl; set on ice. Boil 
the milk and pour gradually over the gelatine until dissolved, then 
strain; when nearly cold add the whipped cream, a spoonful at a 
time. Sweeten with pulverized sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Line 
a dish with lady-fingers or sponge=cake; pour in the cream and set 
in a cool place to harden. 

CALF'S FOOT JELLY.— Boil 2 calves' feet in 4 quarts of water 
until it is reduced to 1 quart; strain, let it get cold, and take off the 
fat; then add the well-beaten whites of 7 eggs, the juice of 4 lemons, 
and 1 cup of sugar; mix thoroughly and boil, with constant stirring, 
for about a minute, and stir through a bag of flannel. 

CIDER JELLY — Take 1| oz. gelatine, the juice of b lemons and 
the grated rind of 1; add 2 cups cold water and let it stand 1 hour; 
then add 2^ lbs. loaf sugar, 3 pints boiling water, and 1 pint boiled 
cider; put into molds, and set in a cool place. 

COFFEE JELLY. — Take 2 cups sugar, 2 cups strong coffee, 3 
cups boiling w^ater, and 1 box gelatine. Soak the gelatine in cold 
water, then put the boiling water on it; then stir the coffee and sugar 
in it, and place in molds. Eat it with whipped cream. Whipped 
cream piled around it makes it a very elegant dish. 

ENGLISH CREAM JELLY — Mix. 8 beaten egg yolks with 10 
spoonfuls of sugar and 1 of good vanilla flavoring. Stir this into 1 
quart of milk, and stir over the fire till it thickens. Strain, and stir 
occasionally till cool. Having soaked 2 ounces gelatine in a pint of 
cold water, add to it 1 pint of boiling water, and, when dissolved and 
smooth, strain into the cream and put into wet molds. 

. For Chocolate Cream proceed as above, omitting the vanilla, and 
adding ^ lb. of melted chocolate. Cooled in layers, with yellow 
cream, it makes a very handsome dish. 

GOOSEBERRY CREAM — Take off the tops and stalks from | 
cup of gooseberries, and stew them in 1 plump half cup of sugar in ^ 
cup of water; then pulp through a sieve. Melt 1 oz. gelatine in ^ 
cup of milk. Whip 1 cup of cream well and stir lightly in with the 
pulp; add the gelatine and milk, and stir till nearly cold. Put into 
a mold and cool. 

LEMON GELATINE. — Use ^ box of gelatine covered with 1 cup 
of cold water; let stand ^ hour; add 3 cups boiling water, 2 cups of 
sugar and the juice of 2 lemons; let stand until all is dissolved, strain 
and put in a mold. 



430 DESSERTS 

LEMON CREAM. — Take the juice of 4 lemons, strain, and add 
1| cups sugar; dissolve ^ box of gelatine, and add that" and the 
strained lemon juice to 3 cups of cream whipped till stiff. Pour into 
a mold, set on ice, and serve cold. 

COCOANUT CREAM — In 1 cup of milk dissolve f box of gela- 
tine; strain, and when cool add 1 cup sugar, 2 cups of either desicca- 
ted or fresh grated cocoanut, and 2 cups of cream whipped until stiff; 
then put it in a mold and set it on the ice. 

LEMON JELLY — Place | box gelatine in a pint of cold water, 
and set it on the stove where it will heat and dissolve gradually. 
When dissolved, add another x^int of hot water, and sugar and lemon 
juice to taste — about 2 lemons, if small, will suit the taste of most 
people, but the more lemon juice, the more sugar. Make it a day 
before using, and set in the ice^chest to harden; serve with thick 
whipped cream, or our mock whipped cream, given among the fill- 
ings for layer cakes. 

LEMON JELLY AND CREAM— Place a mold of vanilla cream 
on the dish in which it is to be sent to the table; cut another 
mold of lemon jelly in pieces, or break it with a spoon to a quiv- 
ering mass, for a garnish. Serve a portion of each to a person; the 
combined flavor is delicious. 

LEMON WHIP — Cover ^ box of gelatine with 4 tablespoons of 
cold water; let stand ^ hour and add 1 cup of boiling water, ^ cup 
sugar, the juice of 1 small lemon and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, and set in a cold place to stiffen. When 
congealed, but not really hard, add the unbeaten whites of 2 eggs, 
and beat all to a stiff white froth. Turn into a pudding mold and 
set aside several hours to harden. Serve with vanilla sauce made 
from the yolks of the eggs and 2 cups of milk v/ith vanilla flavoring. 

GELATINE FROZEN PUDDING.— Soak | box gelatine in 2 
cups cold water for | hour; pour on 1 cup of boiling water, and 
stir till it is all dissolved. Set away to cool until it begins to jelly, 
then stir in 2 oranges cut in small pieces, 2 bananas sliced, 12 
English walnuts, 6 figs. Eat with whipped, or mock whipped 
cream, or soft custard. It will keep on ice for several days. One= 
half this will be enough for 5 or G persons. 

MOCK ICE — Rub 3 tablespoons of some good preserve through 
a sieve with enough milk to fill a quart mold. Dissolve | oz. of 
gelatine in 1 cup milk, mix well with the above, put it in a mold, 
set in a cool place and turn out the next day. 



GELATINE PKEPARATIONS 431 

MACEDONIAN JELLY.— Put 2 ounces of gelatine in 3 pints 
of cold water and place it on the stove, where it will heat gradually 
and dissolve. Add to the hot gelatine the strained juice of 2 lemons, 
and sugar to taste. Cool a little of the jelly in a mold by setting 
it on ice; when solid, add a layer of nicely- washed Zante currants, 
seeded raisins, and stoned dates, then cover the fruit with more of 
the warm jelly; harden again on the ice, and repeat the process until 
the mold is full. Fresh grated or desiccated cocoanut may be used 
instead of fruit if preferred. 

ORANGE DESSERT — Dissolve ^ box or gelatine in 2 cups 
cold water; add 2 cups boiling water, 2 cups sugar and the juice 
and pulp of 1 lemon. Slice 8 oranges, put them in a dish, and 
pour the mixture over them. Keep in a cool place till ready to 
serve. 

Other Fruits can be prepared with gelatine in the same way. 

ORANGE CREAM — In 2 cups of water dissolve 1 oz. of gel- 
atine; strain it, and add 1^ cups sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, the 
juice of 8 oranges, with the grated rind of 1 orange, and the well- 
beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Put it over a gentle fire, stir until it just 
boils (no more), pour it into a mold, and set it in a cool place. 

ORANGE JELLY — For delicious orange jelly, which does not 
require boiling, take 4 good-sized oranges, grate the rind of 2 and 
use the juice and pulp of 2 lemons; take ^ box of gelatine, and 
soak it in 1 cup of cold water; sweeten to suit the taste, and 
put with the juice of the fruit, and add | of a pint of boiling water. 
Strain into molds. 

ORANGE JELLY (i^renc/0.— Swell 2 oz. of gelatine in 2 quarts 
of cold water, with 12 spoonfuls of sugar, and the whites of 2 eggs 
beaten to a froth; strain through a wet napkin into an earthen dish; 
add the rind of 4 very fair oranges, pared very thin; cover, and 
partly cool; add the juice of 8 oranges and 2 lemons; strain, and mix 
with the other ingredients. A few drops of yellow coloring is an 
improvement. It is then ready for cooling. 

PEACH CREAM — Cut a can of peaches into very small pieces; 
dissolve -| a box of gelatine by heating it slowly, on the back of the 
range, in a coffee=cup of cold water; then mix the fruit and gelatine, 
and when partly cooled, beat a pint of sweet crean^ until stiff; add 
sugar to taste. Mix all together and pour into a mold to harden. 

PINEAPPLE CREAM — Peel and shred a pineapple, add § cup 
s>f powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon; beat till stiff 1 cup sweet 



m DESSERTS 

cream; dissolve 1 oz. isinglass in a little hot water; mix all together 
lightly and jDour into a mold; serve cold. 

PINEAPPLE JELLY.— (1) Slice pineappio thinly, sprinkle it 
with sugar, and let stand 2 or 3 hours; make a stiff jelly v/ith gelatine 
and when cool enough to begin to thicken put a layer of the pineap- 
ple in a glass dish, cover it with the jelly and when it sets add more 
fruit, and so on alternately until the dish is full; then set on ice. 
Serve with whipped cream or our mock whipi)ed cream. (2) For a 
variety alternate layers of pineapple and sliced orange can be used, 
sprinkling on lemon juice and sugar; serve cold without cream. 

PRUNE JELLY — Soak 1 lb. of prunes in 1 quart of water 3 
hours; drain them, and strain the water in which you soaked them; 
put it on the range, with 1 lb. of sugar, and let it boil -^ hour. Re- 
move the stones from the prunes and put them into the boiling syr- 
up, and boil it up again; have -^ box gelatine which has been soaked 
in a little cold water and stir it into the boiling prunes. Pour into 
wet molds, and set to harden in a cold place. Serve with sugar and 
cream, or whipped cream, or our mock whipped cream. If desired 
for a variety the juice of 2 oranges and that of 2 lemons, with 2 
tablespoons of sugar, can be added with the gelatine. 

RICE CREAM — Thicken a pint of new milk with rice flour to 
the consistency of cream; sweeten and flavor to taste. Beat the 
whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth. Put ^ ounce of gelatine in -^ pint 
cold water; when well soaked place over the fire until the gelatine is 
dissolved. When cold beat to a froth with an egg=beater and mix 
with an egg. This is excellent for inflammation of the bowels. 

RUSSIAN JELLY — Dissolve 1 ounce of gelatine in 1^ cups of 
cold water, by placing it over a moderate heat; when warm and 
thoroughly dissolved, add the juice of -^ a lemon, and sugar to taste; 
stir all together until well mixed, and the sugar melted; flavor with 
extract of anise seed, strain, and when nearly cold beat to a froth 
with an egg-beater, then pour into a mold, and place in the ice= 
chest to harden. A little raspberry, or other fruit juice may be used 
for coloring, if preferred. 

RUSSIAN CREAM— r/ie Jell!].— To 1 package of gelatine add 1 
pint of cold water. When dissolved add 1 pint of hot water, 2 cups 
of f ugar, juice of 6 lemons. Stir slowly until well dissolved, then 
strain into molds. The Cream. — Cover 1 package of gelatine with 
cold water. When dissolved add 1 cup of new milk, 1 cuj) sugar; 
ke»,t to boiling point, stirring frequently; then set away to cool 



GELATINE PKEPAEATIONS 438 

Whip 1 quart of thick cream until light, beat the whites of 6 eggs, 
and add both to the mixture; when cool flavor with vanilla. Place 
the jelly in the bottom of the molds, and when stiff and cold add the 
cream-, turn out of the mold and serve in slices. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY.— Mash a quart of strawberries, add a 
coffee-cup of water, and let them stand where they will become 
hot, but not boil, while ^ a box of gelatine, in a pint of cold water, is 
gradually dissolving and heating, on the back of the range. Strain 
the strawberry juice into the gelatine, and add sugar to taste; place it 
in .a mold to harden in the refrigerator. The juice of half a lemon 
can be added if desired, and it can be served plain, or with whipped 
cream alone, or with whipped cream and sponge cake. 

The juice of other berries can be used instead, such as currants, 
raspberries, etc., and so varieties can be made. 

SPANISH CREAM.— Put ^ of a box of gelatine in 1| pints of 
milk and soak 1^ hours; then simmer slowly, and add the yolks of 3 
eggs beaten with 1 cup sugar; add a i^inch of salt and any flavoring 
desired. Let the mixture cool a little, and add the 3 welhbeaten 
whites; turn in glasses or custard- cups, and serve cold. 

SNOW PUDDING.— Use 1 pint water, 1 cup sugar, juice of 1 
lemon, ^ package of gelatine; dissolve and strain into cups or molds, 
enough for each person; let stand until partly cool. Beat the whites 
of 2 eggs stiff, and stir a portion into each cup with a fork; it will 
look exactly like snowflakes all over the pudding. With the yolks of 
the eggs make a thin custard for sauce. Put the molded pudding 
into sauce plates, and pour the custard around each when served. 
Good for Sunday dinner as it can be made Saturday and kept in a 
cool jplace, and is better than when first made. 

VELVET CREAM — Soak | box gelatine in 1 cup warm water, 
adding the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons and two cujds sugar; 
heat and stir till it dissolves, but do not let it boil; when nearly cold, 
but before it begins to stiffen, add the cream and beat thoroughly 
together until stiff; then pour into molds, and set on ice to harden. 
Half fill the molds first with nice strawberries, raspberries, or other 
fruits, if desired, for a variety. 

VANILLA CREAM — Soak 1 ounce of gelatine in cold water 1 
hour, drain and dissolve in a little hot water. Thoroughly beat the 
whites of 6 eggs and beat in 1 quart of whipped cream, add sugar to 
sweeten, and flavor with 1^ teaspoons of vanilla; then add the gela- 
tine, beat until it begins to thicken and pour into molds. Serve 
very cold with cream. 

28 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND 
SHERBETS. 

fCE creams and ices can be easily prepared at home, and without 
much expense or labor. Many people do not realize how easily 
many wholesome and attractive dishes can be prepared in this 
way. 

Cream. — Cream which is skimmed off of milk after it has stood 12 
hours is called single cream; that which is taken off at the end of 24 
hours is called double cream, and that taken off at the end of 36 
hours is called butter cream.. The best double cream, and which can 
all be whipped to a stiff froth, is obtained by letting " single cream " 
stand 12 hours, and then taking off the richer part. The best cream 
to use is " double cream," the next best is " single cream." If any 
milk is used it is apt to give the ice cream a mushy, snowy taste, 
because the water it contains will freeze into coarse crystals, and it 
melts quicker than when i^ure cream is used. Gelatine is sometimes, 
added to such cream to give it firmness and disguise the milk. 
There are many so called ice creams made with corn=starch, etc., 
without using any cream at all; of course real cream is superior to 
any substitute, but for economy's sake the substitutes are often used. 
The more water and less cream used, the easier ices are frozen. 
When short of cream it is well to remember that to add a little, if not 
more than ^ teacup, is always better than to use none. 

Condensed MHk can be used by mixing it with scalded milk (1 can 
of condensed milk to 1^ quarts of scalded milk) making it into a 
thick custard, and freezing it; flavor to taste, but rather highly. 

Sugar. — Double refined or sifted white sugar is the best to use. 
See what we say about eggs in the introduction to our article on 
"Cake." Ice cream should seem quite sweet before freezing, as 
when frozen it seems less so. 

Arrowroot, etc — A little arrowroot added to the plainer creams 
gives them a smooth consistency, but the best creams are made with- 
out it. Arrowroot is more delicate and better to use than corn= starch 
or flour in creams. 

Ice. — The best ice to use is snowy ice which is full of air=holes, 
and is readily penetrated by the salt. The ice is most readily broken 
up by putting it in a coarse bag or coffee-sack, and pounding it witii 

434 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 435 

an ax or wooden mallet nntil it is broken into pieces about as large 
as walnuts. The finer it is broken the faster it melts. Snow makes 
an excellent substitute for ice, and in winter can readily be used. 
Pack it firmly into the freezer, add enough water to make it into a 
thick mush, and then put in the salt. The proportion is about 2 to 3 
parts snow or ice, to 1 part salt. It is not necessary to draw ofp the 
water as fast as the ice melts, but wait until it floats the ice. 

Salt. — The best salt to use is Turk's Island salt; rock salt is next. 
For the first freezing have it coarsely ground, and have it in small 
lumps for the " packing down " after the freezing is done. Fine 
table salt melts the ice too rapidly and is not suitable. When 
through with a freezer, any salt left in it may be drained, dried, and 
used again. 

Canned fruits, etc., when used in creams, should be opened an 
hour before using, and turned into a pitcher to aerate; this improves 
their flavor very much. 

For extracting lemon juice a glass squeezer is best. If a metal one 
is used, do not let it stand a few minutes, and then use it again with- 
out washing, as the acid will attack the metal, and so taint the flavor. 

Orange juice can be extracted, without any bitter flavor, by cutting 
the orange in two, removing the pulp with a teaspoon, and straining 
it through a piece of clean cheese cloth. 

Flavoring. — Ice creams should seem quite highly flavored before 
being frozen, as after freezing they will seem less so. 

The Freezer. — Buy a freezer larger than you actually need to hold 
the cream to be frozen. Cream is better if there is room allowed for 
air, and this is especially true of sherbets and water ices; besides this 
the cream expands ^ to | in freezing, so that it is better not to fill 
the can more than ^ full. Less ice and salt are required in propor- 
tion to their contents by large than by small freezers. 

When not in use, the can of a freezer should be kept uncovered. 
After being used it should be cleaned, scalded, and thoroughly dried 
before being put away. 

Freezing the Cream. — Before beginning to freeze ice cream let 
it stand in the freezing=can, packed with ice, but covered only with 
gauze, until it is thoroughly chilled; if this is done it will freeze more 
readily and take less ice, and also, if not cooked, it is apt to become 
granular, or curdle, if the attempt is made to freeze it while warm or 
lukewarm. 

There are many freezing=machines on the market which are 
nearly equal in value, and less ice is required by them than by an 



436 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

open pail. Dii^ections for using the diflPerent machines are fur- 
nished with them, and we advise those who can do so to get a good 
freezer of some kind. Those, however, who have no freezer can make 
ices by using a tin pail with a close cover, and setting it in a larger 
pail which holds the ice and salt. First, pack in solidly a layer of 
broken ice about 3 inches deep, then set in a pail containing the ice 
cream mixture, and pack the ice and salt around it ; next sprinkle on 
a layer of salt, then about 3 times as much ice, distributing it evenly, 
and packing it down firmly, then more salt, and so on until the freez- 
er is full, covering it over the top also, and then cover it all over with 
an old carpet or blanket. After letting it chill for about an hour, 
open up the can, scrape the frozen cream from the sides, and beat all 
together thoroughly until it '~ smooth; the quality of the cream de- 
pends on doing this thoro ^hlj then turn off the brine, put on fresh 
ice and salt, covering it ove. '\j top, lay on the carpet, and leave for 
2 or 3 hours until frozen. The can holding the mixture should have 
a tight lid, so that not a drop of salt or brine can get into the cream* 

A litte ice cream for the use of an invalid can be put in a baking 
powder can or tin pail, packed in salt or ice for 10 minutes, then 
opened and stirred w^ell, then let stand until the freezing is complete. 

Do not allow ice cream or fruit ices to stand long in tin or copper 
vessels, certainly not when above the freezing point, for the melting 
cream will decompose and develop acetic acid, which will attack the 
metal, producing a poisonous compound. 

Packing Down. — Newly=frozen ice cream is apt to be mushy, and 
lacks flavor and consistence, so that after being frozen it is best to 
pack it down and let it ripen 4 or 5 hours before it is served. In 
packing down ice cream which is to be kept some time, turn off the 
brine, pack in some coarser ice and salt, and cover with an old carpet 
or blanket wet in brine. Keep the carpet wet by rewetting it from 
time to time, as then much less ice is needed because the evaporation 
keeps it cold. As long as any ice lasts the temperature will not rise 
above the freezing point. 

The priyiciples involved in making ice cream are as follows: There are varions 
freezing mixtures known and occasionally used, some of which we give elsewhere, 
but for our present purpose the ingredients almost universally relied on are ice 
and salt. All freezing mixtures have some solid substance which turns to a liquid, 
and in so doing it absorbs heat from the surrounding substances and so reduces 
their temperature, and this is the philosophical principle underlying the whole pro- 
cess. The ice is submitted to the action of the salt, which has a great affinity for it 
and melts it very rapidly, and the ice in turning to water withdraws heat rapidly 
from the various preparations of cream, etc.. which are buried in it. and so reduces 
their temperature rapidly and freezes them. But from this it will be clear that the 
cream will not freeze until the ice around begins to melt. So also the smaller the 
pieces of ice the more readily the salt will act on them and melt them. 



ICE CKEAM, WATEK ICES AND SHERBETS 437 

It is a mistake to think that the freezing needs to be done in a cool place. In 
a warm room tlie ice melts more rapidly, and so draws the heat more rapidly from 
the mixture submitted to its action; but if the cream is kept after being frozen, it 
should be in a cool place, of course. 

The object of the continual stirring of the ice cream is to keep the ingredients 
from separating, and the heaviest of them from settling to the bottom, while any 
cream which washes up against the side of the can and freezes must be scraped off 
and mixed in with the balance of the contents. Unless the contents are thoroughly 
stirred before the freezing takes place the whole will be spoiled; either lumps 
will form, disfiguring and discoloring it, or the sugar will settle to the bottom, 
leaving the contents imperfectly sweetened. 

It is a mistake to turn the dasher of a freezing machine rapidly, as that pre- 
vents the cream from being smooth; turn fast enough to accomplish the above ob- 
jects, but that is all. 

Molds. — Molds are prepared to form the cream into many fanci- 
ful shapes. If they are used, after freezing the ice cream press it 
into them firmly, so that there are no air spaces, have the cover 
firmly pressed down, wrap buttered paper around the joint, and bury 
them in ice and salt. When ready to serve them, wash off the brine; 
take off the cover, turn the mold on to a dish, and the ice cream will 
soon slip out if the room is warm. The molds are sometimes dipped 
in warm water to loosen the contents, but this is apt to melt the 
cream too much, and make it run down the sides and disfigure it. 

If it is desired to use 2 coJors, freeze them separately, fit a piece 
of card=board into the mold which is to be filled, pack in 1 kind of 
ice cream on each side, withdraw the card=board, and set the mold on 
ice. 

Coloring Ices. — For coloring ices and creams, caramel can be used, 
or the amber color and some of the others mentioned under " Color- 
ings for Frostings " (which see). Only vegetable colors should be 
used. 

Simple Syrup can be made by putting 2 lbs. of the best lump 
sugar to 1 quart of water; stir occasionally till it dissolves, bring to a 
boil, take off any scum as it rises, draw to the side of the fire, and let 
it boil gently If boiled too fast it troubles an inexperienced opera- 
tor, as it will candy. Should this happen, add more water and boil 
again till the requisite strength is attained. Test it by letting a drop 
fall into a glass of cold water; if it retains its shape it will answer. 
When cold, bottle and keep for use. It will keep any length of time, 
and can be used for many purposes. 

When too much syrup is present a mixture will not freeze 
readily. The remedy is to thin it with a proportionate quantity of 
liquid, according to the description of ice you are making. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM. 

Philadelphia ice creams, so-called, are those whicn are made 
without eggs (those made with eggs are called Neapolitan creams) 



438 lOE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

and many people prefer the Philadelphia creams to any others, as 
they have a light, snowy texture. 

Methods of Making. — There are 2 ways of making ice cream — one 
is by cooking and the other is without cooking the cream and sugar. 
It is a little less work to make it without cooking, and the texture is 
white and snowy, but cooking not only prevents any tendency to 
curdling, but also gives the cream more richness and body. If the 
cream is cooked, put it in a double boiler, set it on the stove and stir 
often; take it off the stove when the water in the outer pan boils, add 
the flavors and sugar, stirring it till the sugar dissolves; let it stand a 
few minutes, strain, and put it into the freezing=can and freeze. 

If uncooked cream is used, it is a good plan to whip a part of it, 
chill it, and stir it in just as the freezing cream is beginning to set. 

The cooked cream is rich and solid; the uncooked is snowy and 
lighter in color, and when part of the cream is whipped it is very 
white and delicate, and suitable to put in molds to decorate the table. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. i.— Take 1 quart of rich 
cream, 1 heaping cup (which equals ^ lb.) of sugar, and flavor to 
taste. This makes the simplest form of ice cream, and these materi- 
als form the basis, and the above are the standard proportions for all 
the best Philadelphia ice creams. 

We give 1 or 2 other recipes for Philadelphia ice cream which 
are sometimes used. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. 2.— Mix together 2 quarts 
of thick cream and 1 pint of milk and ^ lb. of sugar; dissolve 1 table- 
spoon of soda in 4 tablespoons of hot water, cool it, and add to the 
cream just before freezing. Flavor to suit the taste. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. 3— Heat 3 cups of fresh 
milk, and when it comes to the scalding^point have ready 2 table- 
spoons of arrowroot dissolved in a little cold milk and add it; when 
of the consistency of cream, remove from the fire and cool, stirring 
frequently to prevent lumping; add this custard to 1|- quarts of well* 
whipped cream, and 1^ cups sugar; flavor to taste and freeze. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM. 
Method of Making. — To make cooked Neapolitan cream, proceed 
as follows: Beat the yolks of eggs, add the sugar, and beat again; 
then stir in the well=beaten whites and mix all into the cream. Cook 
it over a good fire, in a double boiler, with continual stirring, until a 
knife=blade dipped into it will be slightly coated without its running, 
but do not let it curdle; then remove from the fire, strain, let stand 
until cold, and put into the freezingscan. This method is best suited 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 439 

for caramel, chocolate, coffee, vanilla and nut ice creams. Should 
the custard curdle while being cooked do not throw it away, as if 
well frozen, it will come out smooth. 

There is a simple rule with regard to the use of sugar in these 
creams which it will be convenient to know. Use -| lb. (or 1 heaping 
cup) of sugar to sweeten each quart of cream; 2 quarts of cream 
would therefore require 1 lb. ( or 2 cups) of sugar, and so on. Any- 
where from 1 to 6 eggs are used for each quart of cream, and more 
sugar is required to sweeten eggs than cream, the rule being | lb. of 
sugar to every 12 eggs — as the number of eggs vary, alter the 
amount of sugar to correspond; thus 1 quart of cream and 6 eggs 
would require f lb. of sugar, and so on. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. i— Take 6 eggs, 1 quart of 
cream, | lb. of sugar; flavor to taste and prepare it as directed in the 
above paragraph. This is the standard formula for the best Neapoli- 
tan cream made by confectioners. Various flavors are used, as 
vanilla, cofPee, chocolate and caramel, and nuts may also be intro- 
duced, like fllberts, almonds, etc., and such fruits as apricot, cherry 
and peach, thus giving variety to the cream. 

While the above is the standard formula, used by flrst class 
confectioners, and it makes the richest and best cream, many other 
combinations are used, and the cooking is often dispensed with. We 
give 2 or 3 sample recipes. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 3.— Take 1 pint of milk, the 
yolks of 2 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, and 1 tablespoon of arrowroot; scald 
until it thickens. When it is cool add 1 pint of whipped cream and 
the whites of the 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth; flavor to taste, and 
freeze. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 3.— Take 1 quart of rich 
milk or milk and cream, 4 eggs and 4 tablespoons of sugar; beat the 
eggs and sugar together, stir it into the milk or cream, cool, flavor 
and freeze. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 4.— (Picnic ice cream.) Take 
3 pints of milk, 1 i^int cream, 1| cups sugar, whites of 3 eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth; flavor and freeze without cooking. It can be made 
and served in 1 hour. 

VARIOUS FLAVORED ICE CREAMS. 
Variety in ice creams is produced mainly by varying the flavors. 
One of the recipes which we have given for either the Philadelphia 
or Neapolitan ice creams can be used as the basis, and by using 



440 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

different flavors an endless variety of creams can be produced. We 
give directions following for making many of the best anO most 
popular of the flavors in use. All that is needed is to prepare the ice 
cream by one of the recipes which we have previously given, and 
flavor it with any desired flavor, according to the directions given. 

ALMOND ICE CREAM.— After blanching the almonds pound 
them to a paste, adding a little rose= water to prevent their oiling; 
then add it to any of the above ice creams for flavor. Use about 3 oz. 
almonds to the quart of ice cream. Another flavor is produced by 
blanching the almonds, roasting them in the oven to a golden brown, 
and pounding to a smooth paste in a mortar with a little sugar and 
cream. 

BURNT ALMOND ICE CREAM.— Put 3 tablespoons of sugar 
over a hot fire, in a porcelain kettle, add 4 oz. almonds, and heat till 
the almonds brown, stirring constantly. Then pound fine in a mor- 
tar and sift through a fine strainer. Use this to flavor any of the 
ice creams previously given, using 4 oz. almonds to 1 quart of 
cream. A pleasant combination is produced by fitting card^board into 
a mold and filling with almond ice cream on one side, and orange 
ice cream on the other. Then withdraw the card=board and pack the 
mold in ice 2 hours, or till ready to serve. 

BAKED APPLE ICE CREAM — Use 6 good sized sweet apples 
to 1 quart of ice cream; bake the apples, pass them through a sieve, 
sweeten, stir it in the cream, and freeze. 

BANANA ICE CREAM — Put 3 cups milk into a double boiler 
and bring to a boil; then add 1 heaping cup of sugar and thicken 
with 1 tablespoon of arrowroot dissolved in cold milk; when it forms 
a thick custard take from the stove and cool; when cold, add 1 pint 
of cream and 6 thinly sliced bananas, and freeze. 

BISQUE ICE CREAM. — This is cream to which something is 
added to give it roughness, like nuts or powdered macaroons: Dis- 
solve 1 cup sugar in 1^ quarts of cream ; add ^ cup caramel and ^ cup 
hickory^nut meats, chopped fine; then freeze. Other combinations 
can be used. 

CARAMEL ICE CREAM — Use about 3 tablespoons of caramel 
for each quart of ice cream. See our directions for making caramel 
in our article on "Colors for Frostings, etc." in the chapter on "Cake." 
A little less sugar will be needed when caramel is used. This is 
highly esteemed by many persons. 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 441 

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM — Use about 4 to 5 ounces of choco- 
late to the quart of ice cream. It should be rubbed smooth in a lit- 
tle milk. A little vanilla is also added often, and a little cinnamon 
gives it spicy flavor; steep the cinnamon in warm water, and use the 
clear liquid for flavoring. Or for variety, a little caramel can be 
used instead of the cinnamon flavor. That makes a chocolate cara- 
mel ice cream, and many people like it. 

COFFEE ICE CREAM.— Use about 4 tablespoons of very 
strong coffee to each quart of ice cream. If preferred, ground coffee 
can be boiled with the milk. A little arrowroot is sometimes added 
with coffee cream. 

Tea Ice Cream — Strong tea can also be used for a flavor the same 
as coffee. 

FRUIT ICE CREAM — Soft fruit, like raspberries or straw- 
berries, should be mashed, sweetened, strained through a colander or 
not, as preferred, and stirred into the ice cream when partly frozen. 
Firm fleshed fruit, like peach, apricot, plum, etc., should be cut into 
small pieces, sugar added, allowed to stand until the sugar is dis- 
solved, and then stirred into the cream when it is partly frozen. 

Preserved Fruit and Jams can be used instead of fresh fruit for ice 
cream. For water ices fresh fruits should always be used. If the 
juice or fruits are deficient in flavor add lemon juice. 

FRUIT JUICE ICE CREAM.— Mix any desired fruit juice with 
sugar to form a clear syrup, and then beat it into the ice cream after 
it is frozen, or stir it in after beginning the freezing. Fruit juice 
should never be cooked with the cream or milk. Use 1 cup of the 
prepared juice to 1 quart of cream. 

GELATINE IN ICE CREAMS.— Use | oz. of gelatine to 2 
quarts of custard, (soaking it in a little cold milk) and dissolve it in 
the boiling custard just before taking it off the stove. The gelatine 
should be disguised by high flavoring; it is used to help the molding 
of thin creams. 

LEMON ICE CREAM.— Grate the rind of 1 lemon into 1^ 
cups of sugar which will extract the volatile oil; then add the juice 
of the lemon and stir it in 1 quart of cream; strain and freeze at once 
or the acid will turn the cream. Or lemon extract can be used to 
flavor one of our recipes for Philadelphia ice cream. 

MACAROON AND BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM.— Dry the 
brown bread, pound or crumble it, sift it through a sieve, and beat it 
into the ice cream when partly frozen. 



442 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES A^D SHERBETS 

Macaroons can be roasted to a bright brown, crushed, sifted and 
stirred in in the same way. 

NUT ICE CREAM — Take walnuts, hazelnuts, or similar nuts, 
chop fine, and stir them into the ice cream when it is partly frozen. 
Or they may be j)ounded in a mortar to a fine paste and then used. 

ORANGE ICE CREAM. — Use oranges same as directed for 
lemon ice cream. 

PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM.— To each quart of ice cream allow 
1 large pineapple; pare, slice, cut it very fine, lay it in a deep dish 
and sprinkle with sugar; cover the dish, and let it stand 2 or 3 hours; 
then strain through a sieve, mashing and pressing out all the juice; 
stir it gradually into the cream, beating well. A few slices of pine- 
apple can be retained unsugared, if desired, then cut into dice and 
when the cream is partly frozen stir them in. 

PISTACHIO ICE CREAM — Use ^ cup pistachio=nuts to 1 quart 
of cream; blanch the nuts, jjut them in a mortar and pound to a fine 
paste, adding a little rose= water, and a little sugar and cream; then 
add it to the ice cream. As pistachio=nuts are costly, almonds make 
a good substitute for them. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICE CREAM.— This is an Italian name mean- 
ing simply " all fruits." Any kind of candied or crystallized fruit 
can be chopped fine and stirred into the ice cream when it is partly 
frozen; or home-made preserves, with the syrup drained out, and 
chopped up, can be used. Mix any kinds of fruit you have, or de- 
sire to use to get a good effect, as pineapples, plums, pears, cherries, 
etc. 

VANILLA ICE CREAM.— Use 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract, 
or f ounce of vanilla sugar to each quart of ice cream. For making 
vanilla sugar see the introduction to " Cake." It should be intro- 
duced while the cream is cooking, and fully dissolved. This is one 
of the most popular creams. 

MACEDOINES. — These are formed by mixing 2 or more fruits. 
Those should be selected whose flavors harmonize, as strawberry and 
lemon; orange and ai^ple; apricot and peach; pineapple and orange; 
grape and plum, etc. Prepare and stir the fruit into the ice cream 
when it is partly frozen, as directed above for " Fruit Ice Cream." 

NESSELRODE PUDDING.— Scald in a double boiler, 1 quart of 
rich milk — the more cream it has the better; then add yolks of 4 
eggs and 1 cup sugar beaten to a cream, and 2 cups chestnuts wh-'^h 



ICE CKEAM, WATEK ICES AND SHEKBETS 443 

have been shelled, blanched, boiled 30 minutes, and mashed to a 
pulp; strain, put it into the freezer, and when partly frozen stir in 2 
cups of any fruit liked — berries, stoned cherries, currants or peaches 
— and finish freezing; it should stand 2 or 3 hours before serving, to 
ripen. 

ICED STRAWBERRY PUDDING.— Boil 2 heaping cups of 
sugar and 2 cups water together for 30 minutes, watching carefully 
that it does not get too thick. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs very light, 
and add to the boiling syrup; stir a moment over the fire, then turn 
into a large bowl, and beat continually until cold and thick like a 
sponge=cake batter; then add 1 pint of strawberry juice and freeze. 
Other fruit juices can be used instead of strawberry if desired, and 
so produce varieties. 

MOUSSE — This is a French word meaning moss, and is ap- 
plied to cream so frozen as to give it a mossy look. Make it as fol- 
lows: In 1 cup cold water soak ^ box gelatine, and then set it over 
hot water to dissolve; whip 2 cups of cream, turn it into a basin, add 
the gelatine and |- cup of powdered sugar; add the flavoring, and stir 
carefully from the bottom towards the top until it begins to stiffen; 
have a mold ready, wet with cold water, turn in the mousse, lay on a 
piece of greased writing paper, turned greased side up, fit on the 
cover tightly, and pack in ice and salt 1 hour. Or it can be put into 
a freezer and frozen until it begins to thicken, then put in the molds, 
and packed in salt and ice. Flavor it with vanilla, or any flavoring 
desired, and also stir finely^chopped fruit in it if desired, the same as 
in ice cream. 

FROZEN FRUIT.— Cut firm=fleshed fruits like peaches, pine- 
apples, apijles, etc., into dice; grapes, plums, etc., should be stoned 
and chopped, but strawberries and raspberries need not be crushed. 
Add sugar to sweeten, and when that is dissolved put them in the 
freezer and freeze. If desired, a little whipped cream can be added 
when they are partly frozen, but they are delicious without it. 

FRUIT MOLDS — Take molds, line them with ice cream, and 
into the center put any fruit liked, cut into dice; or fill with berries, 
if preferred; put ice cream over all, press down the cover, and pack 
in ice and salt. Chill the fruit thus, but do not freeze it. 

WATEK ICES AND SHERBETS. 

Water ices and sherbets (sherbet means a drink) are all com- 
posed of the juice of fruit, sugar and water. They vary much in 
richness from the ordinary lemonade which has been frozen, up to 



444 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

those composed of equal parts of sugar and pure fruit juice. They 
have been less popular than ice cream because they not only become 
soft and spongy and melt soon on exposure to the air, but as ordi- 
narily made they are often lumpy, have a gritty taste, and a texture 
like a stiffened compound of flavored water and snow. If the fol- 
lowing method is pursued they can be made much like ice cream 
in texture, being firm, smooth and delicious. 

Method of Making Water Ices and Sherbets — Cook the water and 
sugar to a clear syrup in a double boiler, take off the scum, strain it 
(using fine muslin cloth for the strainer), and let it cool; then add 
the other materials (fruit juice, etc.) and put all into the freezer, 
pack in the ice and salt, and freeze it. It will take rather longer to 
freeze than ice cream, but slowly turn the crank until the contents 
become stiff; then the can should be opened, the sides scraped 
dowU; and all stirred till smooth; the beaten white of 1 egg, with 
1 teaspoon of pulverized sugar beaten with it, should then be added, 
and worked in till smooth. This amount of egg and sugar will be 
sufficient for 4 quarts of sherbet. Then let the brine off, pack again 
with ice and salt, and let stand 2 or 3 hours to ripen, covered with 
a carpet wet in brine, keeping it wet. Then open it, beat again and 
again pack down. Fruit jellies, when used should be melted very 
carefully in water, then cooled, and frozen as just explained. 

If the granular kind of ices are preferred, the cooking should 
be omitted, the ingredients mixed and then frozen; also omit the 
beaten egg and sugar added last, as above directed, for finish. Some 
people dissolve a little gelatine and add it to water ices, as it makes 
them smooth. 

In preparing water ices remember that too much sugar prevents 
freezing, and too little makes them brittle. 

Ices are not considered very wholesome. They should not be 
taken at once after violent exercise, nor while very warm, and they 
are apt to retard digestion if taken while that is going on. 

Granites and Frappes (pronounced frap-pay) are formed by mix- 
ing the ingredients without cooking, and only about half freezing 
them, so that they are like wet snow. The ingredients used are fruit 
juice, sugar and water, the same as for M-ater ices and sherbets. 

ORANGE ICE — Take 12 fine juicy oranges, squeeze out the 
juice and i)our a little boiling water on the pulp to extract the juice 
from that; add the juice of 2 lemons, the grated rind of 2 oranges, 
1^ lbs. of sugar, and 1 quart of water; strain and freeze. When about 
half frozen add the beaten whites of 2 eggs. • 

Lemon Ice can be made the same way, but may need more sugar. 



ICE CKEAM, WATEE ICES AND SHEEBETS 445 

PINEAPPLE ICE. — Mix 1 can of chopped pineapple, 2 cups 
sugar, and 2 cups of water; then freeze. Or 2 cups fresh fruit can 
be used instead of the canned. A little lemon or orange juice or 
both are sometimes added to improve the flavor. A little gelatine 
dissolved and strained is also added sometimes. 

STRAWBERRY ICE.— Mix 2 cups of strawberry juice, 2 cups of 
sugar, and 8 cups of cold water. Soak 1 tablesj)oon of gelatine in 
2 tablespoons of cold water, then add 2 tablespoons of boiling water 
and when thoroughly dissolved strain and mix with the strawberry 
juice and sugar; then freeze. In winter strawberry shrub rnay be 
used in place of the juice and it will be nearly as good, but it should 
be colored with a little cochineal. 

Other fruit juices can be used instead of the strawberry, and 
thus a variety produced. 

GINGER SHERBET. — Make and freeze a lemon water ice; stir 
into it 4 oz. of preserved ginger cut into small pieces, and 2 table- 
spoons of the ginger syru^), and pack down. 

LEMON SHERBET — Take 4 cups water, 2- cups of sugar, juice 
of 6 lemons, and 1 tablespoon of gelatine. The gelatine should be 
dissolved in part of the water, added to the other ingredients, 
strained and frozen. 

MILK SHERBET — Mix 1 quart of milk, 1 cup of sugar and the 
juice of 2 lemons; then freeze. 

PINEAPPLE SHERBET.— Take 1 can 

of sliced pineapples, cut it in very small 
pieces, and cook until soft; add the juice of 
4 lemons (strained) and 1 cup sugar; cool, 
and add -| lb. of candied cherries cut in small 
pieces; add cold water enough to make the 
mixture 8 quarts. Beat the whites of 4 eggs 
very stiff and mix with the sherbet just before 
freezing and freeze at once. This amount 
will serve 20 persons. 

The Pineapple is a native of South America, but 
has been naturalized in many semi=tropical countries. The fruit is eaten fresh 
and although the taste is delicious it is not very digestible. It is very perishable. 
It contains little nutrition, having 89,'» of water, 9^ of carbohydrates, O.i^ albumen- 
oids, 0.3fo fat and O.ofo mineral matters. When eaten uncooked they are best if pre- 
pared and placed on ice 2 or 3 hours before being served. 

VARIOUS SHERBETS — If 2 cups of fruit juice are used to 2 
lbs. of sugar and 8 pints water, and it is cooked and prepared as di- 




446 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

rected in the " Method of Making Water Ices and Sherbets," very 
fine sherbets can be made. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, apple, 
cherry, grape and ftineapple juice all work well; or jelly can be used 
as there directed, but it takes rather more of the jelly than of the 
juice. The piilj^i of peach, aprtcot and nectarine can be used instead 
of the juice. The amount of sweetening can be altered if any of the 
juices require it, 

SORBET — Take 1 quart water and 2 cups sugar, and boil 
together for 20 minutes; then add 1 cup orange juice, ^ cup lemon 
juice, and 1 can of grated pineapple; cool, strain, and freeze to a 
mush. Serve as soon as possible after freezing. This can be varied 
by substituting 1 pint of strawberry or raspberry juice for the otheT 
flavors. 



HOME CANDY MAKING. 

i ^'^ ANDY can be made at home for |- its cost at stores, and when 
I y^ so made you know it is pure, which unfortunately is not the 
\^J case with some of that sold by the trade. Ladies who de- 
light in making cake, preserves, etc., may easily add this to 
their other accomplishments. A few failures at first should cause no 
discouragement, as knowledge comes by experience. As candy will 
absorb moisture from the air in damp weather, which interferes with 
its hardening, choose dry weather to make it. 

The Materials and Tools. — Confectioner's powdered sugar is the best 
to use for uncooked candies as it is prepared expressly for this pur- 
pose. It is a kind of powdered sugar much finer than the ordinary 
powdeued sugar. When the confectioner's sugar is not easily ob- 
tained the ordinary powdered or fine granulated can be used. For 
the kind of sugar to use for cooked candies see what we say under 
"Fondant." 

Have nuts or fruit thoroughly dry before using them in can- 
dy. Slightly salting most nuts before using them will improve the 
flavor of the candy. If almonds are to be pounded they will pulver- 
ize more readily if after being blanched they are well dried in an 
open oven. 

Oil, or washed butter is the best to use in greasing tins for deli- 
cate candies like macaroons, kisses or ratafias, as salted butter or lard 
is apt to imi3art an unpleasant taste. 

Porto Rico molasses of a medium grade is best for candy; or use. 
the best New Orleans molasses. 

Unsweetened chocolate can be used for caramels and similar 
candies, but confectioner's sweet chocolate is better to use to dip 
candies in. 

Many ladies are bewildered by the list of tools and their names, 
but good results can be obtained with a small sauce=^pan, and a silver 
spoon and fork, although a few other things are an advantage and 
can be obtained if candy is to be made often. The sauce=pan should 
not be iron, but brass, copper, tin or enamel will do; 2 or 3 small 
wooden paddles will be useful. A thermometer costing $2.00 to 
$2.50 for testing sugar will be convenient if much candy is made, 
but as there are other tests it is not essential. A marble slab with a 
smooth top will be a convenience but a large meax plate can be used 

U7 



448 HOME CANDY MAKING 

for small quantities if you haven't that. Candy tongs and candy 
dippers will also be an advantage, and so will a stout candy hook 
fastened to the wall on which to pull candies. Any blacksmith can 
make such a hook, using | inch iron, about 14 inches long, bending 
it into the shape of a fish hook, sharpening the point, and flattening 
the other end and boring 3 screw holes in it. Fasten it up about 5 
feet from the floor. 

In making candy use a vessel deep enough to hold it when it 
boils up, and lift it from the fire when it is in danger of boiling over. 
Watch carefully to keep it from burning. 

In Pulling candy have the hands well greased, throw the candy 
over the hook and pull it towards you; as a rule, take hold of the 
candy firmly, and make that move without sliding the hands over it 
or you will blister the hands; as soon as the candy seems likely to 
break, throw it over the hook again, and continue pulling it thus 
until it is white and nearly cold. 

Greasing the hands is better than flouring them when handling 
candy as the flour is apt to unpleasantly affect its flavor. 

Coloring.— For this use vegetable colors only, and they are better 
prepared at home than when bought at the stores. For preparing 
various colors see "Frosting" for cakes. For amber or light hrown, 
use a little caramel. For carmine or pink, use some of the cochineal. 
For green use more or less of the spinach green, according to the 
shade desired. For yellow use saffron, or grated orange rind, which 
is better, and so on. Only a little coloring matter is needed. 

Flavorings. — These should be selected with care. Flavorings for 
fondant should be as strong as possible and then use but little, be- 
cause fondant liquifies so easily. Many of the flavorings given in 
our article on flavorings in the introduction to the chapter on 
" Cake " can be used. The tea, Bedford, laurel and citronelle, 
will be found excellent. If chocolate is used it will be an advan- 
tage to add a little vanilla. For ordinary candies 5 cents worth 
of oil of cloves, cinnamon, wintergreen, lemon or peppermint will 
flavor 50 lbs. of candy. Add flavors the last thing, or when the candy 
is nearly cold, as their strength is wasted if added while it is hot. 

BOILING SUGAR — In boiling sugar it is well to understand 
the different " degrees," as the confectioners call them, through 
which the sugar passes. There are 12 of these degrees called small 
ihread, large thread, little pearl, large pearl, the blow, the feather, 
the soft ball, the hard ball, the soft crack, the crack, the hard crack, 
and the caramel. Let us examine this a little, but remember that 



HOME CANDY MAKING 449 

in nandling sugar skilfully much judgment is needed. Suppose 
we put on the stove 3 lbs. of sugar and 2 cups of water and stir till it 
dissolves. After boiling a few minutes it will approach the first de- 
gree called tlwead, and as it passes from 1 degree to another quite 
rapidly it must be watched closely and tested often but without stir- 
ring it. 

The thread degree is known by dipping the forefinger into the 
syrup, or touching it to the syrup adhering to a small stick which 
has been dipped in; then touch the forefinger with the thumb, and 
draw the fingers apart; if a fine thread is formed which breaks at a 
short distance, and remains on the finger and thumb as a drop, it 
has reached the small thread. Boil a little longer, repeat the test, 
and a longer thread will be drawn known as the large thread. This 
is the finger test. A thermometer will show about 220°. 

The pearl degree is tested the same way. When the thread 
reaches from the thumb to the finger, without breaking, as they are 
drawn apart, it has reached the small pearl, and when it will spin 
across as far as the thumb and finger can be separated, it has reached 
the large pearl. Another sign is that the syrup shows bubbles on 
the surface, but this is more of a hint than a test. The thermometer 
will show 226°. 

The b!ow degree is tested by dipping a skimmer into the syrup, 
shaking it a little, and blowing through the holes; if small bubbles or 
air bladders appear on the other side the blow is reached. It will be 
230° by the thermometer. 

.The feather degree is tested in the same way, but more bubbles 
are produced; another test is to dip in the skimmer, shake it over the 
pan, and then give it a sudden flirt away from you, and the syrup will 
fly off like feathers, or n.ore properly in threads. At this stage there 
is not enough water left to hold the sugar in solution, and it will 
manifest a tendency to crystallize or grain. The thermometer will 
show 236°. 

The ball degree is tested by dipping the forefinger in a basin of 
ice water, then take a little syrup on the finger-tip and plunge it into 
the water again, and roll it with the thumb; if it forms a soft ball it 
has reached the soft ball (at 240°). This is the point at which to 
use it for mint cream drops. When a larger and harder ball is 
formed, which sticks unpleasantly to the teeth on being bitten, the 
hard ball degree is reached (at 248°). 

The crack degree is tested in the same way, and if the sugar adher- 
ing to the finger breaks with a slight noise, and docs not acJhoro to 
the teeth, it has reached the soft crack; the thernionictor will .-^how 

29 



450 HOME CANDY MAKING 

252°, On boiling it up again, and testing the same way, the crack 
degree will be reached at 260° ; at 290° tlie syrup will break short 
and brittle, cracking like an egg-shell, and is then known as the hard 
crack degree. 

The caramel* degree soon follows, and the syrup loses its white- 
ness and turns a light straw color. A few drops of some acid, 
like vinegar, lemon juice or tartaric acid, should be added now to 
prevent its graining, and the pan should be quickly taken from the 
stove and set into cold water to prevent the syrup from burning, or 
it will soon become a dark brown and be spoiled. At the caramel 
stage the sugar will snap like glass on being dipped into water. 

Hints. — Dropping in the acid is called greasing the syrup. Do 
not add too much or you will spoil it. Confectioners have a saying 
that "there are 20 different ways to grease syrujj, but none to make 
it grain when greasy." 

A small piece of butter put into the pan will prevent the syrup 
from rising over the sides, and will grease or smooth it, and thus act 
like the acid in keeping it from graining. 

For testing the syrup a small round stick is sometimes used in- 
stead of the finger; dip it into the cold water, then into the syrup, 
and then into the water again. Have the water close by, and be sure 
it is cold or it will not test well. If the water is cold enough and the 
fingers are held in it till cold, then dipped into the hot syruj) and in- 
stayitly plunged into the cold water again, they will not burn when 
used to test even boiling syrup. 

Kee]3 the sides of the pan clear from crystals of sugar by wiping 
them off with a damp sponge or flannel, and do not let the crystals 
drop into the pan, or they will cause granulation. In doing this do 
not let the fingers touch the syrup or they will be burned. One 
washing down is generally enough, but repeat if necessary. 

If at any time you boil the syrup a little too much, or produce a 
degree beyond what you wish for, put in a little water and boil it up 
again. Sugar that has been boiled too often, however, loses many of 
its good qualities. After dissolving the sugar do not stir the syrup; 
there will be danger of making it granulate if the pan is shaken 
while it is boiling. Sugar which has grained can be boiled again 
and used for taffy or cream candy. 

Do not set candy in a refrigerator to cool it, but in a cool, dry 
place. Airtight boxes are the best in which to keep candy. 



*The name "Caramel" is derived from a Count Albufage Caramel, of Nismes, 
France, who discovered this stage of boiling. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 451 

FONDANT OK CREAM CANDIES. 

FONDANT OR CREAM.— Fondant is the foundation for almost 
all French candies, and can be easily made by the amateur so that it 
will look and taste as well as that made by the professional. Granu- 
lated confectioner's powdered or coffee A sugar can be used, but cof- 
fee A more generally gives good results. For a trial add f teacup of 
water to 1 lb. coffee A sugar; let it stand an hour or so, and then add 
cream of tartar the size of a white bean, dissolving it first in a little 
cold water; now set the pan over a quick fire (be particular about 
that, as it is quite important) and stir constantly until the candy be- 
gins to boil; then stop stirring at once. After it has boiled a few 
minutes drop some of it into cold water to test it; try it often, and 
when you find the candy can be gathered up in the fingers in a ball 
which does not at once soften when held (about the soft ball degree) 
it is ready to take from the fire, and should be very carefully poured 
into a pan which has been sprinkled with cold water, and which sets 
level. Be sure the candy is not stirred from the time it begins to 
boil until it is poured into the pan, as it would grain if stirred. 
Greasing the pan is often advised, but it is apt to affect the taste of 
the candy, and we have found moistening sufficient. Let it remain 
without stirring or shaking until it is almost perfectly cold; then 
beat it constantly with a large spoon or paddle. In a short time the 
candy will get white, and then begin to harden; now gather it into a 
mass and put it on a sprinkled marble slab if you have it; if not, 
knead it in the same pan in which it cooled, but in either case, knead 
it as you would bread dough for a few minutes with the hands. If it 
is not hard enough to knead, stir as long as you can with the spoon 
and then set away awhile and it may harden sufficiently to work; if 
not, add a little water and cook again, allowing the ball to cook a lit- 
tle harder than before. Eemember that sugar passes very rapidly 
from one degree to another, and so must be tried often. When 
cooked enough, pour it into the pan and treat as before directed. If 
not boiled long enough the fondant will be too soft on attempting to 
knead it; if boiled too long it will harden too quickly, and be hard 
and lumpy. Skill in working it will come with practice and experi- 
ence. 

This fondant can be used for dipping, and if it is cooked 
enough it can be made into balls to be dipped in melted fondant. It 
can also be used for "patties." It can be made in quantities and 
kept in a stone or china dish or jar, well covered with waxed or but- 
tered pape^^o keep the air out, using it as needed; it will keep thus 
a week in cold weather. Do not scrape the sauce pan after pouring 



452 HOME CANDY MAKING 

out the fondant; put a little boiling water in it, set on the stove, 
and it can soon be easily washed out. 

The above fondant will form the foundation for all your French 
candies. It can be colored with cochineal, saffron, etc., and flavored 
with any flavoring desired. In working these candies there is a 
chance for displaying one's taste and skill. It can be made into 
rolls, and pieces sliced off, or made into cubes, or formed into any 
shape to imitate French candies. As French candies are nearly all 
made by hand, you can notice their forms and imitate them. We ex- 
plain some of the most popular forms for these candies, and you can 
easily devise others; there is no limit to the varieties which can be 
produced by varying the flavors, using noyeau, maraschino, tea, cof- 
fee, and other flavors less common than the vanilla and lemon. Va- 
riegated effects are produced by using fondant, variously colored, and 
so on. 

Melting Fondant. — In melting fondant put some of it in a cup and 
set it in a dish of boiling water, instead of setting it directly on the 
stove; when melted, the cup can be held in the hand while the dip- 
ping or dropping is being done. It is sometimes said that the cup 
must be kept in hot water during the "dipijing, but we have not found 
this necessary, for as soon as it hardens too much to use readily it can 
be set back in the hot water and softened again. If very hot, it may 
be too thin; if so, stir a minute till it thickens. If it is too thick, 
cautiously add a little hot water, 1 or 2 drops at a time, as a little too 
much water will spoil it for dipping candies, although it can be used 
for dipping fresh fruits. 

In using a iork for diiiping candies, grease it well, and do not stick 
it into the article, but drop the ball or nut into the melted fondant 
and lift it out with the tines of the fork, using them like a spoon; 
rest it a second, to drain, on the edge of the bowl, and then deftly 
drop the coated candy onto the oiled paper. 

ORANGE OR LEMON CREAMS — Grate the yellow rind of an 
orange carefully into a plate, and add the juice of ^ an orange and ^ 
a lemon, and just a dash of tartaric acid; then mix it with enough 
confectioner's powdered sugar to make a stiff paste, form it into little 
balls, and set away to dry for a few hours; then melt a little fondant 
in a cup as before directed, and drop in each little ball, lift it out 
with a fork, and lay it on oiled paper. If the cream gets too thin to 
cover the balls well, let it cool a minute; if it gets too thick warm it 
again. 

Lemon Creams are made by using lemon in the same way. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 453 

BALLS. — Fondant can be melted and an equal amount of alm- 
ond paste stirred into it; this can be formed into balls, and these 
balls dipped into melted fondant as directed for orange creams. By 
flavoring this melted fondant with cofPee, tea, etc., various effects can 
be produced, which will be novel and attractive. 

WALNUT CREAMS — Melt a little fondant in a cup as before 
directed; color it with cochineal, and flavor with vanilla or not, as 
preferred; then drop in walnut meats, one at a time, taking them out 
on the tines of a fork, and placing them on buttered paper to harden; 
then repeat the operation giving each one a second coat. Another 
way is to flavor a little fondant with vanilla, form it into small balls, 
press the 2 halves of a walnut on opposite sides of each one, and set 
it on an oiled dish to harden. If the nuts are slightly salted before 
being used it will improve the flavor. 

Almond Creams can be formed by using almonds instead of wal- 
nuts. 

CHOCOLATE CREAMS — Flavor a little fondant with vanilla 
and roll it into balls the size of walnuts; then take some confection- 
er's sweetened chocolate, heat it, and mix in enough well-beaten 
white of egg to make a smooth, thick paste; dip each little ball into 
this paste, and lift it out with a fork and drop it onto oiled paper; if 
the white shows through, add more chocolate. Let the balls dry for 
some time. 

RASPBERRY CREAMS.— Mix a little raspberry jam with 
enough confectioner's powdered sugar to form a stiff paste, and 
roll it into little balls between the palms of the hands; then melt a 
little fondant as before directed, color it with cochineal, and dip in 
these balls as directed for " Orange Creams,'' giving each ball 2 coats 
if needed. 

Strawberry Creams can be made with strawberry jam tTie same 
way, 

MAPLE SUGAR CREAMS.— Grate fine maple sugar and mix 
it with fondant to suit the taste, and form into any shape desired. 
The walnut creams are very nice made with maple sugar, 

COCOANUT CREAMS.— Take ^ cup grated cocoanut, 1 cup con- 
fectioner's powdered sugar and 5 teaspoons of milk; mix, form it 
into little balls, let them dry 3 or 4 hours, and dip them in melted 
fondant as directed for " Orange Creams," These are very nice cov- 
ered with maple sugar fondant. 

FRUIT CREAMS — Take some fondant and, while it is warm, 
work in grated cocoanut, or finely-chopped citron, currants, figs, or 



454 HOME CANDY MAKING 

other fruit; it can then be formed into balls, bars, or flat cakes, and 
these set aside to dry. 

Dates and Cherries can be cut in two, and the stones or seeds 
taken out, and little balls of flavored fondant put inside; then press 
them together, roll them in granulated sugar, and set to dry. A deli- 
cious confection is also produced by putting salted almonds inside, 
instead of the fondant. Try it. 

Canoed Plums or Figs can have the skins and stones removed, then 
be rubbed to a paste with confectioner's powdered sugar and a trifle 
of cream of tartar added; then form into balls, and dip as directed for 
"Orange Creams." 

CREAM=COATED FRUITS.— Melt some fondant, and add any 
flavoring desired, only select that which will go well with the fruit 
to be dipped. The fondant can also be colored, if desired, to suit 
one's fancy. A fondant which is too soft for making the balls or cen- 
ters for candy, can be used for this pur^jose. Grapjs, currants, cher- 
ries, strawberries, raspberries, and other fruit, can then be dipj^ed 
into the prepared fondant, dipping each berry separately, and laying 
them to dry on oiled paper, or set them in the little paper cases if you 
have them. Select choice fruit for this purpose. Fruit thus dipped 
is quite attractive for dessert or breakfast. Oranges also may be 
peeled, each carpel separated carefully without breaking the skin, 
and then dipped in melted fondant, which is colored with grated 
orange rind and thinned with orange juice This process is new and 
good. 

PATTIES. — These are simply melted fondant, flavored as 
desired, and formed into drops or patties the size of a half dollar; 
they will be hard enough to eat in ^ hour. By using diflPerent flavors, 
as peppermint, wintergreen, etc., numberless varieties can be pro- 
duced. 

UNCOOKED CREAM OR FONDANT.— Pass 2 or 3 lbs. of XXXX 
powdered sugar through a sieve, shape it like a cone on the table, 
make a well in the top, put in a little water, work in sugar till it is 
absorbed, put in a little more, and keep on thus doing until a smooth, 
stiff paste is formed. While doing this, work in a little vanilla or 
any other flavor desired. This will serve as a foundation for any of 
the candies for which " Fondant" is used, but it cannot be melted to 
use as a coating. 

By varying this uncooked cream a little a variety of fine candies 
can be produced. Thus lemon creams can be made by working up 
the sugar with lemon juice and a little grated rind; then form them 



HOME CANDY MAKING 455 

into creams. Or use orange juice and rind for orange creams. Or 
use any fruit juice instead of the water for mixing, such as pineap- 
ple, raspberry, strawberry, etc.; the flavor is thus easily varied. 

Cream Walnuts, Dates, Figs, Cherries, etc. — These can be made from 
the uncooked fondant as follows: Roll some of the uncooked fondant 
between the hands into a strip about 1 inch in diameter, and then cut 
the strip into sections about 1 inch long, and, using the hands, roll 
these into balls, then take each one, press the 2 halves of a walnut on 
the sides opposite each other, and put them in a pan in rows as fast 
as formed; set them aside to harden a few hours and they will be 
ready to use. To prepare cherries, figs, or dates, take out the seeds 
after cutting them in two, put in a piece of cream, roll them in the 
hands, and set in rows on a greased dish to harden. If desired, they 
can be rolled in granulated sugar as fast as formed, to coat the sur- 
face; then set aside to harden, 

CREAM CANDIES.— Take the whites of 1 or 2 eggs, add an 
equal quantity of cold water, and stir in enough confectioner's pow- 
dered sugar to knead well. Flavor to taste. 

Chocolate Creams can be made by flavoring some of this paste, 
forming into balls, and dipping it into melted chocolate; grate 
the chocolate, put it in a dish, and set that in a pan of boiling water 
till melted; after dipping in the creams, any kind of nuts, figs, or rai- 
sins can be pressed on top. 

A great variety of candies can be formed from this cream, as 
it is in reality only an uncooked " Fondant," and will serve as the 
foundation for any of the candies previously given for which "Fond- 
ant" is used, but it cannot be melted for use as a coating. 

Varying the Cream — This paste is varied sometimes by using 
milk, instead of water, and by beating the egg. Take the white of an 
egg and an equal quantity of milk; beat the egg, add the milk, and 
form to a paste with confectioner's powdered sugar as above directed; 
this x^aste when done is handled the same as the other paste. Gum 
arable is used sometimes instead of the white of egg; a paste is 
formed by mixing the gum arable with confectioner's powdered sugar, 
and the paste thus formed is worked up in numberless ways. There 
are many slight changes in making the paste or cream, but the re- 
sults are very similar. 

LOZENGES — 'Wintergreen lozenges can be made of the above 
cream by flavoring it with wintergreen, rolling it out thin, and cutting 
out the lozenges with a little tin cutter. Various other lozenges can 
be produced by using different flavors, and they can also be tinted 
with different colors, if desired, for a variety. 



456 HOME CANDY MAKING 

BONBONS. — Make a paste by working confectioner's powdered 
sugar into gum arabic water, and flavor it with vanilla; form it into 
balls and let them dry. Then dip each ball into a cream made of the 
beaten whites of eggs and the confectioner's sugar, flavored and col- 
ored with chocolate. This last cream should be thin. By varying 
the flavorings, using different colors, etc., an endless variety may be 
made. 

CREAM NUT CANDY — Mix | lb. coffee A or granulated sugar in 
1 teacup of sweet cream, and heat slowly on the stove till the sugar 
is dissolved; then boil 5 minutes, and stir in ^ lb. of nut kernels, 
which should be finely grated or chopped; then boil 10 minutes, and 
pour it onto the buttered plates; cut it into squares when partly 
cool; it will harden in about 2 days. 

MARSH=MALLOWS — Take 4 oz. of the best white gum arabic, 
dissolve it in 1 cup of water and strain it; then add a full ^ cup of 
powdered sugar, set it on the stove, and continually stir until the 
mixture is about as thick as honey, and the sugar is well dissolved; 
the welhbeaten whites of 2 eggs should then be added gradually, and 
stirred until the mixture becomes thinned and will not stick to the 
finger when touched; flavor to taste with lemon, rose, wintergreen or 
anything preferred. Pour it to cool into a square tin 
pan dusted with corn^starch. Cut into squares when 
cold, and dust each one with corn^starch. This will 
keep best in tin boxes. 

NOUQAT. — Make the marsh-mallow paste as above 
directed, and then stir in ^ lb. of almonds blanched 
and cut fine; set to cool as before; then cut, when cold, 
into long bars and wrap in waxed pajDer. Hazel-nuts, 
pisiacliio'-nuts, etc., can be used at times for a variety. 

COCOANUT CREAM CANDY.— Mix the milk of 1 
cocoanut and 1^ lbs. coffee A or granulated sugar, and 
heat slowly until the sugar is dissolved; then boil 5 
minutes, add the grated meat of the cocoanut, and boil 
10 minutes longer, stirring continually; pour on buttered plates .o 
harden, and when it begins to harden, cut into squares. It will 
harden in about 2 days. 

MISCELLANEOUS CANDIES, ETC. 
GLACES — Take 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup water, and \ 
teaspoon of cream tartar; boil it to the "crack" degree, that is, so 
that it will break when in cold water, and will not stick to the teeth 




COCOANUT 
AND BLOSSOM. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 457 

when eaten, and set the vessel containing it into a basin of hot water 
to keep it warm; if it gets too cool while being used, it can be 
reheated twice, but it will not soften after that. Into this mixture 
can be dipped nuts, such as almonds, peanuts, walnuts, etc., or fruits 
like grapes, cherries, dates, figs, sections or carpels of oranges, etc. 
Have the fruit or nuts dry before dipping them, and dip them one at 
a time. Grapes and cherries can be dipped in by their stems; nuts 
and so on, can be dropped in and lifted out on the well=greased tines 
of a fork. Lay them to dry on greased paper or pans, or on a sieve 
also greased. In damp weather the atmosphere is apt to make them 
sticky, and even in dry weather they should be kept in an air-tight 
jar or tin box. Some of the fruits are best eaten within a few hours 
after being prepared. 

TAFFY (Lemon). — Put 1 cup of water and 1^ lbs. cojBfee A sugar 
over the fire; stir until dissolved, then add \ teaspoon of cream 
tartar; wipe down the sides of the pan with a damp cloth or sponge 
to remove the crystals, and boil until it reaches the "crack" degree; 
then turn it into shallow greased pans to cool, sprinkling on 1 tea- 
spoon of lemon extract. Mark into squares with a sharp, greased 
knife, when it is partly cold. Or, it can be turned onto a well- 
greased slab, and when the edges cool a little they should be turned 
in toward the center, repeating this every few minutes until it is cool 
enough to handle. Then pull it as previously directed for pulling 
candy. If it is pulled, the flavoring extract is best sprinkled on a 
little at a time during the pulling. Then take it off the hook, pull it 
into long strips, and cut these into little blocks 3 or 4 inches long; 
set them in a cool place on greased pans to cool. 

Vanilla Taffy can be made in the same way, but flavor with vanilla 
instead of lemon. 

Molasses Taffy. — Boil 1 quart of New Orleans molasses for 30 min- 
utes in a large pan, so that it will not run over, stirring continually; 
then add -^ teaspoon baking soda, and boil it to the " crack " degree ; 
then add 1 teaspoon lemon juice and pour it into shallow, well- 
greased pans or a platter to cool; when partly cool it may be marked 
into squares or pulled to a bright golden color, and finished as 
directed for other tafiies. 

Walnut Molasses Candy. — Make the molasses taffy as just directed, 
and when it gets to the "crack," degree, stir in all the walnut ker- 
nels it will hold (have the walnuts ijerfectly dry); pour it into well 
greased pans to cool; cut a lemon in two, and with the flat side press 
the candy down smooth; cut it into bars with a welbgreased knife, 
when partially cool. 



458 HOME CANDY MAKINa 

Peanut Molasses Candy can be made the same way, but use peanuts 
instead of walnuts. 

Everton Taffy — To 1 lb. coflfee A or granulated sugar, add 1 tea- 
cup of water; cream ^ lb, of butter and have it ready, and when the 
sugar is dissolved stir it in; flavor with lemon, cook to the "crack" 
degree, turn it into greased pans, and with a greased knife mark into 
blocks when partly cold. 

PLAIN MOLASSES CANDY.— Take 2 cups of molasses, 1 cup 
of brown sugar and 1 tablespoon of butter, and boil until it will hard- 
en in cold water; then stir in 1 tablespoon of vinegar, pour it on the 
buttered plates, and pull as soon as cool. 

Adding the sugar makes the candy more brittle; if white sugar is used instead 
of brown, the candy will be whiter, and if a teaspoon of soda is stirred in well, just 
before pouring out the candy, it will whiten it still more. The vinegar keeps it 
from graining, and lemon juice or tartaric acid would answer as well. The butter 
keeps it from rising over the sides of the pan as it boils, and makes it smoother; 
some people add a little sweet cream also. The idea that molasses candy should 
be stirred from the time it is put on the stove until it is taken off is erroneous. A 
tin lid placed over the pan as soon as it begins to boil, will keep in the steam 
which will wash the candy from the sides of the pan. When beginning to pull the 
candy it should be rather sticky, or else it will not be of the right consistency 
when done. After getting the mass into good shape, pull it briskly a few minutes 
while holding it over the stove, and the heat and the pulling combined will whiten 
it wonderfully. 

For Peanut Molasses Candy prepare the peanuts while the candy is 
cooking, lay them on buttered pans, and pour the candy over them 
when done; cut into blocks with a greased knife when it is slightly 
cooled. 

For Walnut Candy stir in a cup of walnuts just before removing 
it from the fire; then pour into greased tins and finish as above. 

BUTTER SCOTCH. — Take 3 cups of white sugar, ^ cup of water, 
-| teaspoon of cream tartar and 1 tablesjaoon of butter; boil, without 
stirring, to the "crack" degree; add ^ teaspoon of soda and 8 drops of 
lemon extract, and turn it into welhgreased pans, having it about ^ 
inch thick; when partly cool, mark into inch squares with a well= 
greased knife. 

SWEET FLAG CANDY.— Take some sweet flag root, wash it, 
scrape thoroughly, slice very thin, and boil 10 minutes in twice as 
much water as there is of the flag; drain off the water, and for each 
cuj) of this extract add 1 cup thick maple syrupy — or sugar will an- 
swer; stir well together, and cook till the sugar grains. Excellent for 
colds, 

COUGH CANDY — Break 2 oz. slippery elm bark into small bits, 
add 1 cup water and 2 oz, flaxseed, and let it soak, stirring a few 



HOME CANDY MAKING 



459 



times, for 1 or 2 hours; strain, add 3 cups brown sugar, put it on the 
stove, stir till the sugar dissolves, and boil 5 minutes; put in 2 table- 
spoons of lemon juice and bring to the "crack" degree; pour it to 
cool into greased pans, and cut into small squares when partially cool. 
This is a valuable remedy for those troubled with throat affections, 
or who use their voices much, and a pleasant candy as well. 

PEPPERMINT DROPS.— Take 1 cup granulated sugar, moisten 
it with 2 tablespoons water; boil it 
5 minutes, then take from the fire 
and add cream of tartar the size of 
a pea; mix well, and add 4 or 5 
drops of oil of peppermint, and beat 
it briskly until the mixture whitens 
(have the cream of tartar and pep- 
permint measured and ready while 
the sugar is boiling), then drop 
it quickly onto oiled paper, in 
drops about the size of peas, or 
other sizes if preferred. When 
firm, they can be removed from the 
paper by moistening it on the 
under side, and lifting them ofP 
with a limber knife. Dry them 
in a warm place on a sieve, and keep in closely covered boxes. If 
powdered or confectioner's sugar is used the drops will be less bril- 
liant. If the sugar dust is separated from the granulated sugar with 
a hair sieve, it will be an advantage. If the cream gets too hard to 
drop from the spoon set it on the stove, stir till it gets thinner, and 
drop as before. 

Peppermint belongs to the mint family and grows abundantly in all temperate 
climates. It is a powerful stimulant and the peppermint candies are very efficace- 
ous in relieving flatulence and nausea. 

For Ginger Drops proceed exactly the same as for peppermint, but 
instead of flavoring with peppermint use 2 teaspoons of Jamaica 
ginger. 

For Rose Drops flavor with 7 or 8 drops of essence of rose, and 
color it with 7 or 8 drops of the prepared cochineal given elsewhere 

Lemon Drops can be produced by flavoring it with 1 teaspoon of 
acetic acid; or proceed as follows: Use just enough strained lemon 
juice to dissolve 1 cup of sugar; boil to a thick syrup, drop onto 
greased plates, and set in a warm place to harden. We prefer the 
first method. 




PEPPEKMINT. 



460 HOME CANDY MAKING 

Wintergreen Drops can be made like peppermint drops, bat flavor 
with wintergreen, and tint with the prepared cochineal. 

For Currant Drops moisten the sugar with currant juice instead of 
water; set it on the stove and melt, stirring constantly, but do not let 
it boil; then add a very little more sugar, warm it a moment with the 
rest, drop it on oiled paper, and finish like peppermint drops. 

By using raspberry or strawberry juice, instead of the currant 
juice, raspberry or strawberry drops are produced. 

Orange Drops — Take the juice and grated rind of 1 orange, add a 
pinch of tartaric acid, and stir in enough confectioner's powdered 
sugar to work well; form it into balls the size of marbles. 

CARAMELS {Chocolate.) — Take 4 cups of brown sugar, 2 cups 
New Orleans molasses, | cup of milk, 2 cups Baker's chocolate (grat- 
ed), and butter the size of an egg; stir all together, and boil slowly 
over a slow fire until it cracks in water (the "soft crack" degree); 
add vanilla flavor and turn it about | inch deep, into large, flat, wen= 
greased tins; when nearly cold, mark it deeply into squares with a 
greased knife. Break apart when cold, and wrap in waxed paper. 

Maple Caramels. — Take 4 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup crushed 
maple sugar, 1 cup sweet cream; bring to a boil and add 1 tablespoon 
of butter and a pinch of cream tartar; cook slowly, with constant 
stirring, to the "soft crack" degree, and finish as directed for choco- 
late caramels. 

Nut Caramels. — Make the same as chocolate caramels and when it 
is cooked (to the "crack" degree) stir in about 1 lb. of nuts, chopped 
fine; use walnuts, or walnuts and almonds mixed; then finish as with 
the chocolate caramels. 

Vanilla Caramels — Cream 2 tablespoons ot butter, and work in 1 
cup brown sugar; then mix in 1 cup cream and 1 cup New Orleans 
molasses, and treat as directed for chocolate caramels, flavoring 
with 1 teaspoon of vanilla just before pouring out to cool. 

This can be made into strawberry caramel by flavoring with 
strawberry instead of vanilla, and working in a little red coloring. 

FRENCH CHOCOLATES — Melt some confectioner's sweetened 
chocolate in a cup set in hot water, and into it drop nuts of various 
kinds, or small pieces of candied fruit; lift out each piece with a fork 
and lay it on oiled paper to harden. A great variety of delicious and 
popular candies can be made thus, and they will keep longer than 
the French chocolates sold in the stores. 

HOARHOUND CANDY— Boil about 1 oz. of the herb in 1^ 
cups water; then strain it, stir in 3 cups brown sugar, and when it 




HOME CANDY MAKING 461 

boils add 2 tablespoons of vinegar; boil until it is brittle when tested 
in cold water; pour it into greased pans, and mark into squares with 
a greased knife when partly cold. 

HONEY CANDY.— Take 2 cups coffee A 
sugar, water enough to dissolve it, and 4 table- 
spoons of strained honey; boil until brittle on 
being dropped in cold water; stir in a teaspoon 
of nut kernels, and pour it to cool in greased 
pans. Or, for a variety, leave out the nuts and 
pull it while cooling. 

PEANUT CANDY— Take 1 cup coffee A 
or granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of water, 
and boil till it will harden in cold water; add a peanut. 

pinch of cream tartar, and stir in 1 cup of 
shelled peanuts; finish as directed for hoarhound candy. 

The Peanut is a native of India but is now extensively grown in America. 
It will yield from 60 to 90 bushels or even more to the acre. It is an oily nut con- 
taining a good deal of nutrition, but it is rather difficult of digestion. 

BUTTERNUT BALLS — Take some butternuts or beachnuts, 
pound them very fine in a mortar, and add a little allspice and nut- 
meg. Make a frosting as for cakes, and stir in enough of the mix- 
ture to make it thick enough to handle. Grease the hands, form this 
mixture into balls, and set on greased tins, allowing room for them 
to spread as they dry. 

FIQ CANDY. — Take 1^ cups water and 1 lb. coffee A or granu- 
lated sugar; boil until it is brittle when dropped in cold water; add 
1 teaspoon each of butter and vinegar, and pour it into greased pans 
on which slices of figs have been laid; put slices on top also. 

CRYSTALLIZED POPCORN — Take 1 teacup coffee A or gran- 
ulated sugar, 3 tablespoons of water and 1 tablespoon of butter; boil 
to the "hard ball" degree, and then throw in 3 quarts of nicely 
popped corn; stir briskly until the candy is evenly distributed over 
the corn; take the kettle from the fire (be careful the corn does not 
burn) stir until it cools a little, and each grain will be separated and 
coated with crystallized sugar. 

Nut meats of any kind may be crystallized the same way. 

CRYSTALLIZED CHERRIES.— Prepare the sugar and bring it 
to the " hard ball " degree as directed for crystallized popcorn, and 
then pour it over some fine ripe cherries which have been stoned: 
move them about gently, to coat them nicely, and when almost cold 
dry them in a cool oven or ne^r the fire. . , 



462 HOME CANDY MAKING 

POPCORN BALLS — Sort all the hard kernels out of popcorn; 
then take the amount of molasses needed, and boil it until it will 
hair or thread otf the end of a spoon (the "feather" degree); pour 
the hot molasses over the corn, mix well, and make into balls as soon 
as it cools a little, having the hands well greased, 

Cornoke can be prepared by putting the mass while warm into 
greased tins, pressing it into thin sheets with greased rollers and 
afterwards cutting it into small square cakes. 

RATAFIAS. — Use ^ lb. of sweet almonds, ^ lb. bitter almonds, 2 
cups granulated sugar, whites of 4 eggs. Blanch, skin and dry the 
almonds; then pound them in a mortar with the white of 1 egg; then 
stir the sugar in gradually, and add the remaining whites of egg; 
beat thoroughly, and drop on tins covered with writing or cartridge 
paper, and bake about 10 minutes in a quick oven. The ratafias 
should be about the size of a large button when done, and as they 
spread very much in baking only a very little of the paste should be 
allowed for each one. Have them far enough apart on the paper so 
that they will not touch as they swell in baking. 

WHITE CANDY. — Take 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup water, 
and 1 tablespoon of vinegar; boil without stirring until it is brittle 
when dropped in cold water; pour into greased pans, and pull when 
cool enough, adding vanilla flavor as you pull it; form it into sticks, 
and set in a cool place till the next day. 

CRYSTALLIZED NUTS.— Select the finest nuts and lay them in 
welhbeaten white of egg, drain them, and again beat what white of 
egg drips off; then dip them one by one into powdered sugar; 
lay a sheet of fine paper on a pan, place the nuts on it, and set in a 
cool oven; when the icing becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and 
keep in a cool, dry place. 

FROSTED, ICED OR CRYSTALLIZED FRUITS.— Select ripe, 
perfect fruit, and dijj it in the welhbeaten white of egg to which a 
little cold water has been added, or into thin gum arable water; then 
roll it in pulverized or fine granulated sugar; let it dry a little, and 
roll again, laying it on oiled paper to dry. Keep it in a cool, dry 
place until ready to arrange it for the table, as dampness may make 
it sticky. 

Currants, cherries, grapes, plums, peaches, or other fruit, may be 
thus prepared, and it is very attractive for the tea table or dessert. 
Leave grapes or currants on the stem, and brush the fur off of 
peaches before frosting them. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 463 

ORANGE PEEL, CANDIED.— Use thick peel and cut it in thin 
strips, then boil it, frequently changing the water until there is no 
bitter taste in the water (don't be alarmed at the amount of boiling 
required); drain thoroughly, then put in a kettle with sugar only, in 
proportion of 1 cup to the peel of a dozen oranges. Set the kettle 
on the back of the stove, and stir occasionally while the sugar dis- 
solves and the peel becomes candied and dry. Keep in a glass jar. 
Used instead of raisins in cake it gives a daintily-flavored fruit cake. 

FUDGE. — Take 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup of milk, 1 
heaping teaspoonful of butter, 1 small teaspoon of vanilla, 2 squares 
or 1 ounce of chocolate. Shave the chocolate fine. Mix the sugar 
and milk until there are no lumps : then place it on the stove, and 
put butter in at once, and stir continually. When it comes to a boil 
add the chocolate ; allow it to boil until, when dropped into a cup of 
cold water, it sticks together like a soft caramel (about 10 minutes) ; 
add the vanilla just before taking off of the stove, and continue 
stirring until it is quite stiff, but not so hard that it will not run 
freely. Pour into buttered pans, and cut into squares just before 
it gets cold. 

Nuts of any kind may be chopped fine and added at the same 
time as the vanilla, if desired, to give variety. 



FRUITS AND NUTS. 

GREAT variety of fine fruits abound in our markets which in 
their season are clieap and easily obtainable. They may be 
considered as luxuries, because no fruit is essential to life, 
but they afford a ijleasing variety to bills of fare, and they 
possess some value in themselves. While most highly prized by the 
inhabitants of warm countries they are craved and procured by those 
of temperate climates, often even at much expense. Fruit may be 
profitably eaten at least once a day. The juice, consisting largely of 
watery solutions of acid and sugar, is the most enjoyable part, and 
those varieties containing the most juice with the least cell structure 
are the most highly prized. Although judged by their chemical 
composition their food value is not large, fruits act beneficially on 
the system, when fully ripe and eaten in moderation, as they improve 
the apj)etite and promote a healthy condition of the vital organs. 

Nuts do riot form a very important article of diet among any peo- 
ple with the exception of the cocoanut. Although judged solely by 
their chemical composition they should be very nutritious, they are 
difficult of digestion and are valuable principally for the oil which 
they contain. 

The most wholesome and nutritious fruits are the bland varieties, like ap>>ie8, 
grapes, pears, strawberries, and gooseberries, although the latter, as well as cur- 
rants and raspberries, are less wholesome than the others. 

Stone fruits are apt to disagree with the stomach, but the more watery, like 
peaches and large plums, are better than those which are smaller and drier, like 
apricots and damsons. Bananas are wholesome. 

The skin of fruits, and the cellular parts in general, are not readily digeste 1. 

The pulp of oranges renders them heavy. 

Fruit may be eaten with a meal or on an empty stomach. The quantity vhich 
should be taken depends on the kind. A healthy person may now and then eat the 
bland, nutritious fruits, as freely as any other wholesome food, but, as a rule, he 
will gain most if he eats but little, and takes it regularly. 

Whatever fruit is eaten uncooked, must be fully ripe, but not over-ripe. 

When eaten with a meal, fruit promotes digestion by its gently irritating ef- 
fect on the mucous membrane of the stomach and intestine. For a laxative effect 
it is best eaten in the early morning before breakfast, or between meals. Among 
the laxative fruits may be mentioned oranges, figs, tamarinds, prunes, mulberries, 
dates, nectarines, apricots and plums. In the early morning an orange acts very 
decidedly as a laxative, sometimes amounting to a purgative, and may generally 
be relied on. Pomegranites, cranberries, blackberries, sumach berries, dewber- 
ries, raspberries, barberries, quinces, pears, wild cherries, and medlars are astrin- 
gent. Pomegranites are very astringent, and relieve a relaxed throat and uvu'a. 
Apples are correctives, useful in nausea and the vomiting of pregnancy; they at 
once relieve the nausea due to smoking. Grapes and raisins are nutritive and de- 
mulcent, and very grateful in the sick chamber. 

Among the fruits which act as diuretics are, grapes, peaches, strawberries, 
whortleberries, prickly pears, black currants and melon seeds. Lemons, limeSi 

461 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 465 

apples, gooseberries, red and white currants, pumpkins and melons are refriger- 
ants. 

Cooking removes much of the acidity from unripe fruit, and renders it lighter 
as well as more palatable. The acid of unripe fruit acts as an irritant poison, 
causing an excessive intestinal secretion with more or less irritation, and hence 
arises the resulting diarrhea. On the other hand, fruit which is over«ripe, in which 
fermentation has begun, frequently causes the same disorder, and should be 
equally avoided, although less easily avoided because the insidious beginning of 
decay is not easily recognized. 

The Acids in Fruit. — The pleasant flavor of many of the fruit sauces depends 
on blending the acids which fruits contain, with sugar, and much of the success of 
the various cooking operations in which they are used depends on the proper com- 
bination of these elements. If the acid was neutralized, as might easily be done 
with an alkali, the piquancy would be gone, and the product would taste insipid 
and flat. The aim, therefore, is not to wholly neutralize the acid, but merely to 
blend it agreeably with sweetening. 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. 

Fruit for the table should be selected with care, and choose only 
that which is ripe and perfect. In arranging it for the table there is 
an opportunity to display one's taste and ingenuity. The garnishing 
requires attention. Arrange the fruit tastefully on dishes, with 
leaves between and around it, as the contrast of brilliantly colored 
fruits with nicely arranged foliage is very charming. The double= 
edged malloM% strawberry and vine leaves have a pleasing effect, and 
in winter the bay and laurel are sometimes used. For the breakfast 
table melons, oranges, and small fruits are generally served, but for 
the dinner table all fruits are served in their season. Serve whole 
fruit in a raised dish, blending the colors harmoniously, and mix in 
any pretty green leaves or vines. Arrange them conveniently for 
serving, and so that they will not fall out when moved. 

Have fruit fresh, and as cold as possible when served. That 
v/hich has stood for some days in a warm room is not very tempting. 
Pounded ice is an agreeable addition to a dish of raspberries, straw- 
berries, or currants. Pound it in a clean cloth until it is almost as 
fine as snow, and then spread it over the berries. If sliced fruits or 
berries are sprinkled with sugar and allowed to stand 1 or 2 hours be- 
fore serving, they will be much improved. 

Grape scissors, a melon knife and fork, and nut crackers should 
always be put on the table if there are dishes of fruit requiring their 
use. 

There are many very attractive ways of preparing fresh fruits for 
desserts, etc., which we explain elsewhere, such as " Frozen Fruit," 
"Frosted or Iced Fruit," " Glaces,"' " Cream= Coated Fruit," "Fruit 
Molds," "Fruit Ice Creams," etc., which the reader can readily refer 
tc 

30 



466 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



APPLES. — Choose those which are not too sour, and which have 
a pleasant taste; wipe them clean, or polish brightly with a cloth, 
and mix together different colors, like red and yellow, piling them up 
on a dish when they are to be served at the table. 

APRICOTS — These need only a few green leaves to garnish 
them. Pile them high on a glass or other dish. 

BANANAS. — These, if whole, should be piled on either high or 
low dishes, and high in the center, with bright green leaves to make 
them look pretty. They are often mixed in with oranges and grapes. 
Bananas make a delicious dessert if the skins are taken off, and they 
are cut crossways into thin slices, and then sugar and cream served 
on them. Or, after slicing them, si)rinkle on sugar and add a little 
orange juice. Alternate layers of bananas and oranges (peeled and 
sliced) with sugar on each layer are very nice. It will be an im- 
provement to let the fruit get very cold, and cover with whipped 
cream when serving. Bananas and strawberries also go well to- 
gether. 

BERRIES. — Choose the freshest. It is better not to wash them 
unless they need it, but pick them over, hull them, spread a layer in 
a dish, sprinkle with sugar, then put in another layer of berries, and 
so on alternately. Set them in a cold place until ready to serve, and" 
then put on a layer of crushed ice. If necessary to wash them, use 
cold water, wash a few at once, and 
then hull them, handling as little as 
need be. Do not stir them wuth a 
spoon nor drain them with a colander. 
Then sprinkle with sugar and set away 
as before. Do not wash berries after 
being hulled, as more or less juice es- 
capes with the hulling, and the less 
they are then disturbed the better. It 
improves their appearance to garnish 
them with a border of green leaves. 

Blueberries, blackberries, huckle- 
berries, whortleberries, etc., are all 
served much the same way. 

The Whobtlebekky is native to the nortli- 
ern parts of the world, and there are many 
varieties. The fruit contains about 71% water, 
6.7^ sugar and l.S^ free acid. It is very whole- 
some. 

The Bluebebky belongs to the same species as the bilberry, whortleberry, etc. 




nOETLEBEEEY. 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 467 

It is found in most northern countries. It is a very -wholesome and palatable 
fruit, and its composition is about the same as the whortleberry. 

CHERRIES — These can be piled in rows and high like a pyra- 
mid. They are also nice if kept in clusters. Then garnish with 
green leaves if convenient. 

COCOANUTS. — These can be grated and served with either 
cream or jelly as preferred, or both can be used; or serve them with 
jelly or jam. For whatever dish cocoanut is to be used it will 
be more digestible if X3ut to soak for a time in any liquid, 
such as milk, etc., which is to form an ingredient of the dish. 
Adding a little lemon juice is also to be recommended. Vanilla and 
rose=water are favorite flavorings for dishes made from cocoanut. 

CURRANTS — When fully ripe these are delicious and attractive 
in appearance. Mix together the red and white on bunches, in alter- 
nate rows, with leaves bordering the outside; or pick them from the 
stem and sweeten them. They are delicious served with raspberries. 
They are nice crystallized or frosted. The method of preparing 
them is explained in our article on "Home Candy Making" (which 
see). 

DATES, FIGS, FRENCH PLUMS, ETC.— These are all served 
on small glass plates or oval dishes, piled high in the center. Gar- 
nish them with green leaves. 

GRAPE FRUIT OR SHADDOCK.— Peel in sections like the 
orange, remove the bitter white membrane cov- 
ering the sections, break open the pulp and 
serve. Sugar is sometimes added, and some- 
times it is sprinkled on and left for 1 or 2 hours 
or over night, but many prefer the fruit un- 
sweetened. This fruit is wholesome and re- 
freshing, and it deserves to be more highly 
appreciated, but by many the taste for it has to 
be acquired. 

RIPE FIGS. — Peel and slice fresh figs, and 
serve with pulverized sugar and cream. 

GOOSEBERRIES..— These should be piled high, but need no 
other arrangement, except a few green leaves for decoration. 

GRAPES — Examine these carefully, and pick out all which are 
withered or unsound. Rinse them in cold water, Malagas especially. 
Have the bunches of medium size, dividing the large ones. They 
can be piled in a pyramid, with a few hanging over the side of the 




FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 





MANGO TBEE. 



dish. Different kinds mixed look well, by the contrast of colors, and 
their own or other green leaves can be placed at the 
edge of the dish. Divide the bunches with fruit 
scissors. 

THE GUAVA — This is the fruit of a tree which 
grows in the tropics. It is an agreeable and whole- 
some fruit, its taste when quite ripe being not unlike 
that of strawberries and cream. The fruit is eaten 
raw, but is also made into jams and jellies. The 
rind is sometimes stewed with milk. The 
fruit is also eaten fresh with sugar and 
cream, and it can be preserved or canned like 
other fruit. 

THE MANGO. — The mango is a native 
of India, but grows in other tropical coun- 
tries. The fruit is finely flavored, sweet, 
cooling, and medicinal, especially if partaken 
of early in the morning, but it is too perisha- 
ble to transport to a distance. The unripe 
fruit is made into i)ickles often. 

MELONS. — These should be very cold when served, and are 
best kept on ice a few hours before serving. They may be cut in 
strix3S and piled up on a platter, or merely cut crossways. The ice 
should not be allowed to come in contact with the inside of the 
melon. Eat with a spoon or fork. They are eaten alone, or witli 
salt, sugar or peisper, sprinkled on. 

CANTELOPES. — Chill by keeping them on ice before serving: 
cut them in two, remove the seeds, and serve a half to each person. 
Serve salt with them. Eat with a spoon. 

THE MULBERRY — This fruit although called a berry is in 
reality a spike. When to be used as a dessert it should be freshly 
gathered and so ripe as to drop from the tree. It has a fine flavor 
and a sweet, sub-acid taste, and is succulent, sugary and rich. The 
fruit drops as soon as it is ripe and is eaten much like blackberries 
and raspberries which it resembles somewhat. It makes fine 
preserves. 

OLIVES. — These can be most attractively served by draining 
them and putting them in a small fancy dish on a bed of broken 
ice, with a small silver fork in the dish. They are served at din- 
ders, lunches and suppers, and are placed on the table at the begin- 



FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



469 




THE OLIVE. 



ning of the meal and are left until it is over. If they are too salt 

let them soak in cold water an hour before 

serving them. On taking them from the table 

put them in a bottle of slightly salted water, 

covering them completely to keep them from 

darkening in color. 

The Olive tree is a native of the soutii of Europe. 
The fruit is valuable in its ripe and unripe state. Unripe 
olives are pickled in various ways, being usually pickled 
in lime water which renders therh softer and milder in 
taste. They are eaten to destroy the taste of viands pre- 
viously eaten, and to promote digestion. The well=known 
olive oil is obtained mainly from the external part of the 
ripe fruit. 

ORANGES. — These may be served whole, piled up like a pyr- 
amid or mixed in with bananas and grapes. If served whole they 
can be cut in two crossways, without peeling them; then eat with a 
spoon, sprinkling on sugar or not as preferred. Or they can be 
served cut in halves, and laid on green leaves; or with the peeling cut 
and rolled down. Or they can be peeled, divided into sections, the 
seeds taken out, and each one cut in 3 pieces with a silver knife; 
then sprinkle on sugar just before serving. In Havana a fork is 
run into the orange from the stem end, which serves as a handle; 
then with a sharp knife the peel is cut in strips and turned down 
from the top, and the orange is eaten, which leaves the fibrous iDulp 
on the fork. 

THE MANQOSTAN OR MAN= 
QOSTEEN.— This tree is a native of 
the tropical parts of Asia and Africa. 
The tree grows to about 20 feet in 
height, and it has a regular, tapering 
form something like the fir. The fruit 
in size and shape resembles an orange. 
It is dark brown, spotted with yellow or 
gray, and it has a thick rind. The 
fruit is very juicy and deliciously fla- 
vored, and it may be eaten freely with 
perfect safety. It is one of the most 
delicious of fruits. 

PEACHES.— These should have the fur wiped ofp, but any 
other garnish than a few green leaves is superfluous, as their own 
color is so rich. They make a beautiful center dish. Or they can 
be pared, sliced, granulated sugar sprinkled on, and served at once, 




MANGOSTAN OR MANG08TEEN. 




470 FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS 

and cream passed for them. Some people think it an improvement 
to grate nutmeg over sliced peaches. Try it. Or they can be frozen 
or frosted by the methods we explain in our articles on " Ice Cream " 
and " Candy Making," and made very attractive. 

The Nectarine can be treated like the peach of which it is only 
a variety. 

PEARS. — WijDe them with a cloth, and pile them high like a 
pyramid, with a few green leaves at the base. For eating, select fine 
grained pears. 

PERSIMMONS.— When dead ripe the skin will be so tough 
that the calix may be pulled out, and 
then the delicious contents may be 
taken out with a spoon, but it is very 
astringent unless fully ripe. 

The persimmons may be kept for 
some time by putting a layer of brown 
sugar in an earthen jar; then put in a 
layer of persimmons, then sugar, and so 
on with alternate layers; have sugar on 
top. Keep paper closely tied over the peksimmons. 

top. 

Pebsimmon is the fruit of the Diospyros virginiana. It grows in the Southern 
States, but is seldom found north of 40°. When green the fruit is very astringent, 
but when ripe, or when mellowed by frost, it is sweet and luscious. By a course of 
cross fertalization and selection the Japanese are said to have brought this fruit 
to great perfection. 

PINEAPPLES. — A handsome center=piece is formed with a pine- 
apple surrounded with oranges and grapes. A pineapple may be 
pared, and then holding it by the tuft, use a sharp knife and start 
the fruit in thin slices and tear each piece from the hard central 
core; then cut them into small pieces, add sugar and allow it to 
stand in the refrigerator some time before serving, to form juice. 
Another way is to cut off the tuft, then cut the pineajople into 
quarters lengthwise; take out the hard core, and grate off the fruit 
until the rind is reached. Pineapple forms a good desert served with 
lady =^ fingers or slices of sponge cake in a row around the dish. 
The "strawberry" is considered the best, and the "sugardoaf " next. 
It is also nice served in layers with cocoanut and oranges, with sugar 
between the layers; after preparing, set in the refrigerator till ready 
to serve. 

The rind of pineapple contains an acid which will make the lips and mouth 
sore if it gets on them; therefore, peel it with one knife, and slice it with a clean 
fresh one. Salt is used as an antidote for the acid if it gets on the lips. 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



471 



take out tlie seeds, and 




POMEGBANATE. 




POMEGRANATES.— Remove the skin, 
carefully remove all the thin brown 
skin separating the sections; mix the 
seeds with finely pounded ice on a 
pretty dish, and serve. 

Pomegranate is native to Asia and 
probably Africa. It has never come into 
very extensive use in Europe or America. 
The pulp has a delicate, pleasant flavor, and 
its sub=acid juice malces it cooling and grate- 
ful in warm climates. The rind is very 
astringent (caused by the tannin it contains) 
and a decoction of it malies a good gargle 
for sore throat, and is good for diarrhea. 
The tree grows to a height of 15 or 20 feet. 
The pulp of the fruit is of a reddish hue and 
very refreshing. 

PLUMS. — Pile these in pyramidal form. A 
pretty effect is produced by adding sprays of nas- 
turtium leaves and blossoms. 

The Sloe is the parent of the plum. The leaves have 
been used to adulterate tea. The juice is sharp and astrin- 
gent, and the fruit, when ripe, makes good preserves. 

RAISINS — Serve only the choice varieties on 
the table like the loose "Muscatels" or layer raisins. sloe. 

They may be served with candy and nuts, or almonds are sometimes 
blanched and strewed over them. 

Raisins contain more sugar and less acid than fresh grapes, and so are more 
nutritious but less refrigerant. If eaten too freely they are apt to derange the di- 
gestive organs. 

RASPBERRIES. — If very large and fine they are sometimes piled 
in rows in pyramidal form. Otherwise merely pile them in the center 
of the dish with a few green creepers about the edge. Some people 
prefer them with little or no sugar. Or prepare them as directed for 

" Berries.'* 

STRAWBERRIES — Put them in a pretty dish and garnish with 
some of their own green leaves. Large fine berries are served by the 
French without hulling; each one is taken by the hull and dipped in- 
to powdered sugar, which is xoassed vrith them, and then eaten, They 
are also niceinit into a dish in alternate layers of berries and sugar; 
then whip together 2 cu^^s cream, 1 cup of pulverized sugar and the 
whites of 3 eggs.; flavor with strawberry or orange juice, and put it 
on toiD of the berries. Another way is to put alternate layers of ber- 
ries and sugar in a dish; then take orange juice in the proportion of 
3 oranges to 2 pints of berries, pour it over, and set the dish in a 



472 



FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



cool place for 1 or 2 hours. Sprinkle pounded ice on them just be- 
fore serving. 

PRICKLY PEAR.— Cut a slice ofp of each 
end, then peel it, and cut the pulp into slices. 
It can be sprinkled with powdered sugar and 
the juice of an orange squeezed on, or it can be 
eaten unseasoned. 




PBIOKLY PEAK. 



They are 



The Peiokly Peab is the fruit of a species of cactus. 
It is of a purplish color and it is covered with spines so 
that it must be handled carefully, protecting the hand with 
a napkin. The fruit is freely eaten in Mexico and it is 
often imported from there. 

THE TAMARIND — This tree is native to 
the West Indies, but is cultivated in warm 
climates. The tree grows to a height of about 

40 feet. The pods are from 3 to 6 inches long and contain pulp and 
seeds. The pulp is juicy and acid. It contains citric, tartaric and 
malic acids, with potash, sugar etc. It makes a drink which is cool- 
ing and laxative. Tamarinds are best preserved by putting alternate 
layers of tamarinds and vv^hite sugar into a stone jar; cover with sugar 
and seal tight. 

NUTS. 

If served with the shells on nuts should be wiped. 

merely piled high in the center of the dish 

wdth or without green leaves around the edge. 

It is best to crack them, however, and serve 

them with salt. Nuts with a tough skin, like 

almonds, should be blanched. Almonds, fil- 

erts, Brazihnuts, hickory=nuts aud walnuts, go 

well with raisins. Nut crackers should always 

be provided if any of the nuts are uncracked. 

Bbazil=nut8 are the seeds of a majestic and beautiful 
tree which grows to a height of 100 to 120 feet. When 
fresh the fruit is agreeable. It contains a very large 
amount of oil. They are rather difficult of digestion. bbazil«nut. 

CHESTNUTS, ROASTED — Wash the chestnuts, make a slit in 

the side of each one; boil 10 minutes in water enough to cover them; 
then drain and bake in a dripping pan for 10 minutes in a hot o»'en. 
Serve hot with salt. 

SUGARED ALMONDS. — Put into a sauce^pan ^ cup sugar and 
•| cup boiling water; boil ^ hour, and add 1 cup blanched almonds: 
boil till the sugar grains (about 5 minutes) stirring constantly; then 
turn them on a buttered dish to cool. 





DRIED FRUITS 473 

For Glazed Almonds proceed the same way, but after the sugar 
grains cook until it begins to brown; then add -I cup boiling water 
and cook until that evaporates and they are a dark brown; then 
spread them in a shallow pan, and dry them in the oven. 

SALTED ALMONDS — Shell, blanch and 
dry the almonds; allow 2 teaspoons butter for 
each cup of almonds- put these in a frying=pan 
or baking-dish and cook, with moderate heat, 
until the almonds are a delicate brown, sth-ring 
frequently — it will take about ^ hour. Then 
sprinkle with salt Put them on at the begin- 
ning of the meal and serve them with the crack- 
ers and cheese. 

ALMOND TEEE. 

Peanuts can be salted the same way, first 
removing the shell and brown skin. Walnuts can be salted the 
same way also. 



DRIED FRUITS. 

Many people do not appreciate the value of dried fruit. A large 
part of the water evaporates when the fruit dries, and the nutritive 
portions are left in a more concentrated form. The percentage of 
nutritive elements in dried apples approaches that of bread, but one 
great drawback to the use of dried fruit is that as ordinarily dried 
many fruits lose much of their peculiar and delicate flavor. Many of 
the fruits are readily and easily dried and can thus be kept for future 
use. Cherries and peaches are (next to apples) about the best of the 
dried fruits. 

Fruits like apples, etc., can be dried by putting them on a kind 
of sieve=like holder, and submitting them for 3^ hours to the action 
of a cold air blast. Thus dried they are superior to fruits dried by 
the sun or hot air. 

The new process of preparing fruit by evaporation has overcome many of the 
objections to the old fashioned dried fruit, and its sale has increased enormously. 
I*-, is probable that the sale of evaporated fruit will in the near future partly or 
possibly largely supplant canned fruit in the market, as it possesses many advan- 
tages. It is healthful and its use desirable. 

Fruit which is to be dried should be ripe and sound. It should 
be spread in a single layer on boards or in shallow boxes. Insects 
may be kept away by covering it with mosquito netting. Keep it 
spread in the hot sun until it is fully dry. as indicated by its turning 



474 DRIED FRUITS 

dark; never set it out in damp or cloudy weather, and always bring it 
in before sunset, to prevent the dew from falling on it. The oven is 
an excellent place to dry any fruit, as it dries more quickly, and is 
not so much exposed to insects; but do not let the oven become hot 
enough to scorch the fruit at all. Fruits are still further preserved 
often by the use of sugar, as in some of the recipes which follow. 

Keeping it. — Dried fruit should be kept in a cool, dry place, away 
from the light, tightly tied in thick paper bags, or in closely covered 
jars. By turning it occasionally into a tin x>an and setting it in a 
hot oven for a few minutes, and then tying it in the bags again, there 
will be no trouble with worms, but to reheat it thus, injures its flavor 
and makes it dark colored. Security against moths is secured by 
using paper sacks, tightly tied, or a box or barrel lined with paper. 
To avoid frequent opening of large packages it is best to keep a 
small quantity on hand in fruit jars. It is sometimes advised to 
scatter sassafras bark among dried fruit to keep away the worms; but 
its flavor will spoil the fruit for many people, so that it is better not 
to use it. 

To cook dried fruit let it soak a few hours, or over night, in soft 
water, and it will then need less boiling; then slip it carefully into an 
aluminum, earthen, granite or porcelain4ined sauce^pan, azid cook it 
in the same water until done, thus keeping it in shaj^e; it is best not 
to add the sugar for sweetening until about 5 minutes before taking 
it from the stove. Another good way is to drain the water off when 
soaked, add sugar to make a syrup, let it boil up, turn in the soaked 
fruit and cook until tender; it equals canned fruit w^lien thus cooked. 

DRIED APPLES — The apples should be pared, cut into slices, 
and dried in the sun or the oven as above explained. 

Pears and Quinces can be dried the same as apples. 

Apples, to SItin. — By pouring scalding water on apples the skin 
may be easily slipped off and much labor in paring them saved. 

DRIED BLACKBERRIES— The cheapest way to preserve them 
is to carefully dry them in the sun as you would apples. Thus pre- 
served they make excellent pies. Keex3 them in a dry, cool place. 

DRIED CHERRIES — (1) Cherries may be put into a slow oven 
and thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. They 
should then be taken out of the oven, tied in bunches, and stored 
away in a dry place. Particular care must be taken that the oven is 
not too hot. (2) Another method is to take the stones and stems 
from ripe cherries; spread them on flat dishes, and dry them in a 
warm oven or the hot sun; pour whatever juice may have run from 




DRIED FRUITS 475 

diem, a little at a time, over them; stir them about, that they may 
dry evenly. When they are perfectly dry, line boses or jars with 
white paper, and pack them close, in layers; strew on a little brown 
sugar, fold thj paper over, and keep them in a dry place. (3) An- 
other plan for cherries is to take equal quantities of cherries and 
sugar; boil the sugar to a caramel; have the cherries stoned, throw 
them into the caramel, and let them cool. Then take them out and 
put them in a sieve to dry, in a slow oven, watching them carefully. 

DRIED CITRON — Pare and quarter it, and 
boil it in water until it is clear, and so tender 
that a brooiji=^ straw will readily penetrate it; 
then have ready a syrup of sugar and water, JKSfM^^^^^j::?^ 

drain the citron, and boil it in the syrup until 
the sugar permeates it; then dry it slowly, 
spread out on dishes, turning it occasionally, 
and sprinkling on powdered sugar several times. 
When sufficiently dried, pack it in alternate 
layers of citron and sugar, in boxes and jars. 
It can be used for cakes, etc. citeon. 

The Citkon belongs to the same genus as the orange and lemon. It is a na- 
tive of India, but is cultivated in all orange^growing countries. It is aciduous, an- 
tiseptic, and antiscorbutic and has been recommended for chronic rheumatism, 
gout and scurvy. It is not unsuited for eating in its natural state, and the juice 
mixed with water and sweetened forms an excellent drink. The prepared rind or 
peel is much used for cooking and confectionery. 

DRIED CURRANTS — Put alternate layers of currants and sugar 
in a jar, using 1 cup of sugar to each pound of currants; let stand 
until the next day and bring them to a boil, and boil ^ hour; skim 
them, and then dry in a slow oven or the sun, spreading them out 
on plates. They serve well in i^udding or pies instead of raisins. 
Keep them in paper bags, or in stone crocks well covered, or pack 
them in sugar in glass jars. 

DRIED GOOSEBERRIES — (1) To 7 lbs. of red gooseberries, 
add 1^ lbs. powdered sugar, which must be strewed over them in the 
preserving pan; let them remain at a good heat over a slow fire until 
they begin to break; then remove them; repeat this process for 2 or 3 
days; then take the gooseberries from the syrup, and spread them on 
sieves to dry. The syrup may be used for other purposes. When 
the gooseberries are quite dry, store them in tin boxes on layers of 
paper. (2) They are sometimes dried in a moderate oven or the 
sun, without the sugar, as directed for cherries. Select firm, ripe 
fruit. 



476 DKIED FRUITS 

DRIED PEACHES. — (1) Take free=stone peaches, cut in halves 
and place them on plates, hollow side up; fill the hollows with gran- 
ulated sugar, and place in a slow oven, or in the sun, if the weather 
is fine, until they are half dry; then pack them in glass jars, hollow 
side down; first a layer of dry sugar, then a layer of peaches mashed 
flat with the small end of a potato masher, then layers of sugar and 
fruit until the jar is full, having a layer of sugar on top. Screw on 
the covers, and keep in a cool, dry closet. (2) Another way is to 
put welhripened peaches in boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes, — a 
whole bushel can be put in the boiler at once; then turn off the wa- 
ter and the skins can be more easily and quickly removed, they can 
be stoned easier, they will dry quicker, and are better 'when dried. 
Dry them, sprinkled with sugar, in a moderate oven or in the sun. 
(3) They can also be dried without removing the skins, but the fur 
should be well rubbed with a piece of flannel; then dry like apples. 

PEACH CHIPS — Use 1 cup of sugar to each lb. of fruit; boil 
the sugar in water enough to dissolve it, until it becomes very thick; 
then put in the peaches, which should be peeled and sliced, and scald 
them well; then take them out with the skimmer and dry in the sun. 
When dry, pack closely in jars in layers, with powdered sugar be- 
tween each layer. The syrup left can be bottled, and used in pud- 
ding sauces, blanc manges, etc. The chips can be used in puddings 
instead of raisins. 

DRIED PINEAPPLE — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on 
dishes, and strew on it a plenty of powdered sugar; keep it in a very 
.slow oven 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry; then 
put the pieces of pineapple on tins and place them in a quick oven 
for 10 minutes. Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, 
with x)aper between each layer. 

DRIED PLUMS.— These need not be pared; rub the skin thor- 
oughly with a piece of flannel, and dry in the sun or an oven, like 
apples. 

DRIED WATERMELON RINDS— These can be dried in the sun 
after being preserved, and they can be used instead of the imported 
citron for cakes and puddings, answering very well. 

The melon belongs to the gourd tribe. It has never been found in a wild 
state, but is supposed to be a native of the sub=tropical parts of Asia; it is properly 
the fruit of a hot climate. It was originally named the niusk^melon. The water- 
melon although less sweet than the muskmelon is more juicy. There are many var- 
ieties, but all are wholesome. In their season melons are beneficial because of their 
action on the kidneys, but they should not be eaten unless of good quality and fully 
ripe. The composition of watermelon is 92% water; Q% carbohydrates; 1% albnmeQ- 
oids; 0.7^ fat, and 0.3% mineral matters. 



COOKED FRUITS 477 

COOKED FRUITS. 

Baking, stewing and frying are the simplest and easiest ways of 
CGoking fruit. Do not pare the fruit long before cooking it, or it will 
discolor by exposure to the air, and its delicate flavor will be im-* 
paired. Cook it in aluminum, earthen or porcelain kettles, and use 
earthen dishes, silver or aluminum knives and wooden spoons, as iron 
or pewter spoons may cause discoloration. It is better not to prepare 
a great deal of stewed fruit at once, as it does not keep long. Only a 
little sugar is needed. 

Using Sugar. — Many cooks do not understand the use of sugar in 
cooKing fruit. The sugar in ordinary use is cane sugar, and is 2^ 
times as sweet as grape sugar, but is closely allied to it, as we have 
explained elsewhere. Cane sugar can be changed to grape sugar by 
cooking it with acids and thus its sweetening power will be reduced 
k) that of grape sugar Some cooks put their sugar in with a mass of 
acid fruit to be cooked, and keep cooking and adding sugar as the 
mass gets sweeter until at last they use 2-| times as much sugar as they 
need to do, because the cane sugar becomes changed to grape sugar. If 
the sugar had been added after the fruit was cooked, much less would 
have been required, and the result would have been far more satisfac- 
tory. By bearing this in mind a large saving can be made in the use 
of sugar. Many people misapprehend the effect of sugar on the acids 
of fruits. Enough sugar can be added to disguise the taste of the 
acid, but it does not neutralize it as an alkali would do, nor does it 
effect any chemical change in the acid whatever. 

APPLE BUTTER. — Boil new cider down |; then add an equal 
quantity of apples which have been pared, quartered and cored; 
boil until the apples are tender, and then sweeten with light brown 
sugar, and boil, with constant stirring, until it is reduced to a 
smooth buttery mass; spice to taste and jout away in stone jars. If 
cooked properly, the spices can be omitted if desired, as the true 
apple flavor is preserved better without them. It is better if lef^ 
slightly tart. 

FRIED APPLES. — Cut sour ai^ples from the cores in small 
chunks — do not peel them — and put them in a frying-pan with the 
fat fried from 2 or 3 slices of salt pork; sprinkle a little salt over 
them, cover tightly with a plate and place on the stove where they 
will cook slowly ^ hour. Serve as a sauce for meat at dinner. ■ They 
are also good cold with bread and butter. 



478 



COOKED FRUITS 



BAKED APPLES. — Wash sour apples, wipe them diy, and re- 
move the cores; fill the holes wdth sugar, and add a little spice and a 
piece of butter on each apple; put -|- cup of hot water in the pan and 
bake the apples until tender. Serve with sponge cake. If i^referred, 
a little grated lemon peel can be mixed with the sugar instead of the 
spice and butter; baste often with the syrup as they bake. Baked 
ajjples served with or without flavored milk, are delicious. 

BAKED APPLES, No. 2 — Take tart 
apples, pare, quarter, and place them in a 
long, shallow pan, sprinkle with sugar, 
cinnamon and flour, dot with small pieces 
of butter, pour in a little water, and bake. 
Serve warm. 

Baked Apples and Oranges. — Take 6 good 
sweet apples; remove the blossom end, 
pare, and put in a baking-pan; sprinkle on 
1 small cup sugar. Invert a pan over 
them, and bake until tender; let them 
cool in their own juice, then pile high 
in a glass fruit dish; pour the sweetened 
juice and pulx) of 8 oranges over them, and 
sprinkle on the grated yellow rind. 

APPLE. 

BOILED APPLES.— Take 12 good 
whole apples; put them in a stew-pan and pour on 2 cups boiling 
water; boil until soft, and sweeten on taking them from the stove. 
Serve hot or cold — best cold. 

QLACED APPLES — Partially stew large whole apples; take 
them out and bake them. Take the water in which they stewed 
add white sugar, and boil until it will form a soft candy when 
cool (about the "crack" degree). Arrange the baked apples on 
the dish in which they will be served, and pour the syrup over them 
hot. When cold, an amber coating of soft candy will have formed 
about each apple, which will add to its appearance and taste. 

APPLE MERINGUES.— Take 6 apples, peel, quarter and core 
them; set them over the fire in a sauce=pan, with 2 tablespoons of 
water, stirring occasionally until done; then mix 2 or 3 tablespoons 
of sugar with them, and arrange them into a mound in a silver or 
tin 4ish. Take the welhbeaten whites of 8 eggs, and add 8 oz. pul- 
verized sugar; spread | of this over and around the apples, smooth- 
ing it with a knife dipped in cold water; i^ut the remainder in a pip- 




COOKED FRUITS 479 

ing bag (see "Piping" in our article on "Frosting and Icing" in 
the chapter on " Cake") and decorate the dish according to taste, or 
put small knots here and there, over and around the dish. Dust with 
sugar, and put into a hot oven 20 or 25 minutes. Serve in the same 
dish. 

APPLE SAUCE — Select 12 sour apples, pare, core, and fill 
the holes with sugar; when cooked very soft, mash through a sieve 
into a small pudding dish, and add the grated rind of 1 lemon; 
beat the whites of 2 eggs and 4 tablespoons of white sugar; add it, 
and brown slightly. Eat cold 

Improved Apple Sauce. — Pare and core 10 tart apples and stew 
with as little water as possible; then add 1 cup powdered sugar; 
whip the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, add to the apples, and stir 
rapidly for a few minutes. Set aside to cool, and serve with sweet- 
ened cream flavored with lemon. It somewhat resembles ice cream, 
and makes a delicious dessert served with nice cake. 

Improved Apple Sauce No. 2. — Too sweet apples do not cook well. 
Cook the sliced apples, in barely water enough to cover them, until 
tender enough to mash easily through a colander; sweeten while 
warm, and season with rose-water, lemon juice and nutmeg. Lemon 
peel stewed with them adds a delicate flavor. 

CIDER APPLE SAUCE.— Take 4 quarts of sweet apples, pared, 
quartered and cored; add 2 quarts of cider either sweet or boiled; 
cover with a plate, and boil slowly but steadily until the apples are 
cooked. 

DRIED APPLE SAUCE.— Look over and wash the apples, and 
let them soak over night in soft water; cook them next morning, 
slowly and without stirring, until they are tender; about 5 minutes 
before taking from the stove add sugar to sweeten; mash through a 
sieve, and flavor with cinnamon. 

Dried Peach Sauce can be made the same way, but do not mash it, 
and season it less. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE.— Pick over the berries, wash and scald 
them, and put on to stew over a moderate fire, adding 1 cup water for 
each pound of cranberries; cover, and stew slowly, stirring as little as 
possible. If boiled hard, especially when first put on the stove, it is 
apt to separate the skin from the berry. Sweeten them to taste on 
taking them from the stove. Part of the acid can bo extracted from 
the cranberries, so that less sugar will be needed to sweeten them, if 
they are allowed to stand first, for about 5 minutes, in boiling water; 



480 COOKED FKUITS 



gfOfS 



then drain them out, and set them on to stew with fresh water, 
few raisins added to cranberries make a pleasant combination. 

Cranberry Sauce No. 2.— Take 3 
cups water, 1 lb. of raisins, and 2 
quarts of cranberries; boil until 
soft enough to sift easily; pass it 
through a sieve, add 2 cups sugar, 
and boil 10 minutes. If some of 
it is desired for immediate use 
pour it into a mold; can the re- oeanbeeeies. 

mainder for future use. Or they 

can be cooked together, sweetened, and set aside to cool without be- 
ing lout through the sieve. 

BANANAS, BAKED — Peel the bananas, cut them in halves, 
and irat them in a shallow pan; for each banana allow 1 tablespoon 
of sugar and 1 teaspoon of hot water; melt a little butter in the hot 
water and pour it over the bananas; with the 
sugar mix a little salt and spice or lemon juice, 
sprinkle it on top, and bake in a quick oven till 
brown — about 20 minutes. 




BANANA TBKE. 



FRIED BANANAS. -(1) Choose bananas 
which are not quite rijDe (the "Plantain" being 
best) ; peel, slice, and drop them into a frying-pan 
containing smoking hot fat, about ^ inch deep; 
they will soon brown; then take them out and 
serve hot, sprinkled with pepper and salt, or, if for 
dessert, sprinkle with sugar instead. (2) Or peel, slice, egg and 
bread=crumb them, and fry to a delicate brown in a kettle of smoking 
hot fat; drain on a sieve or blotting i^aper and serve. 

The Banana grows almost everywhere in the tropics. It is really a variety of 
the plantain, and is very much like it. It is a nutritious food, and contains less 
water and more nitrogenous matter then most fresh fruits. It is always eaten ripe, 
and then contains much sugar, but little starch. A pound of bananas contains as 
much nutriment as .S lbs. of potatoes, and there is every reason to encourage their 
more extensive use. 

DATE SAUCE. — Prepare dates for cooking as directed under 
"Cake." (1) Pare, core and quarter apx^les, and stew until nearly 
done; then add an equal quantity of dates and stew until tender, but 
no longer; sweeten to taste. (2) Another way is to pare and core 
apples, without quartering them, fill the center of each apple with 
dates, pour on a little hot water, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in the 
dish in w^hich they are to be served; then cover with a meringue and 
brown slightly in the oven. 



COOKED FRUITS 481 

DRIED BERRIES, STEWED.— To stew dried berries take 
about 1 quart of water to 1 pint of berries, and boil slowly and 
steadily ^ hour. Sweeten to taste. The various dried berries are 
cooked alike. Easpberries and blackberries mixed are nice, using 
the same amount of each. 

FIG SAUCE. — Scald and wash ^ lb. of nice figs; take every seed 
from ^ lb. of raisins, tearing them in two pieces as you seed them; 
cut the figs in very small pieces and mix with the raisins; add water 
enough to cover them, and steam 1 hour in a pudding dish. It 
makes a delicious sauce for tea, or dessert for dinner. 

GOOSEBERRY FOOL.— Take off the tops and stalks from 1 lb. 
of gooseberries and stew them with ^ cup sugar in -^ cup water; then 
pulp through a sieve. Whip 2 cups cream and 
beat into the pulp. 

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.— Put 1 quart of 
gooseberries with 1 lb. of sugar in a kettle and 
boil until reduced to a pulp. When cold, place 
in a dish, pour over it 1 quart boiled custard, and 
cover with whipped cream. 

The Goosebeeky belongs to the same order of plants 
as the red and black currants. It does not appear to have 
been known to the ancients. The name is by some thought 
to be a corruption of the Saxon gorst (gorse=berry, mean- goosebeeby. 

ing rough=berry). The skin is very indigestible. The acid 
is principally citric and malic. Red gooseberries contain 

more acid than the white, but when that is masked with sugar they are most 
■wholesome. The red variety makes an excellent jelly which is light and refresh- 
ing, and is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and invalids generally who need 
light and digestible food, but it is not very nourishing. 

LEMON BUTTER.— Take the juice of 2 lemons and the grated 
rind of 1, 2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon of butter and 4 eggs; beat all 
well together, place over the fire, and stir until the consistency of 
honey. 

LEMON JELLY. — Mix 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, and 1 grated lemon; 
boil until thick. 

PEACHES, TO SKIN — If peaches are dipped in boiling hot 
M^ater for an instant the skins will readily slip off, saving labor in 
paring them. 

BAKED PEACHES — Choose those which are ripe, or nearly so, 
put them in a deei3 earthen dish, sprinkle on sugar, and bake until 
done, keeping them covered. 

PEACH BUTTER.— (1) Take 1 gallon of sweet cider and boil 

31 




482 COOKED FRUITS 

it down one-half; into this put soft peaches, pared and cut into 
pieces, and boil, with frequent stirring, until they are reduced to a 
pulp; just before taking from the fire add sugar, if it is not sweet 
enough, and cloves and cinnamon to taste. Keep in tightly covered 
jars. (2) Take ripe peaches, pare and stone them, and put in a 
kettle; add a little water and boil them soft, and then pass through 
a colander. Then add 1^ cups of sugar to each pint of peaches, and 
boil slowly 1 hour, stirring often; do not let them burn. Keep in a 
cool place in stone or glass jars. 

FRIED PEACHES — Take ripe, freestone peaches, cut them in 
two, remove the stones, and at once drop each half, the cut side 
down, into a frying=pan containing about ^ inch of smoking hot fat; 
as soon as they are a light brown, turn them over and fry the other 
side; as soon as heated through, transfer them to a hot platter. 
Serve them hot, the hollow side up, sprinkling on a little pulverized 
sugar. 

STEWED PEARS — Cover medium sized pears with water, 
adding 4 to 6 ounces of sugar for each pint of water; cook in a slow 
oven until done — 1 or 2 hours or more according to ripeness. Take 
out, and when cold remove the cores, using a long cutter; reduce the 
syrup well; fill the interior of the pears with whipped cream flavored 
with vanilla and pour the syrup around them. Serve more whipped 
cream with them. For a change gelatine may be added to set the 
syrup; when cold, chop it, and pile around or over the fruit. 

Apples are also nice thus treated. 

BAKED PEARS — Pare and core the 
pears without dividing; place them in a pan 
and fill the hole in each pear with brown 
sugar; add a little water and bake until per- 
fectly tender. Serve cold with cream or 
boiled custard. (2) Hard pears or "wind- 
falls " can be pared, quartered and cored, and 
put into a deep jpudding dish; add 1 cup 
water and 1 cup sugar for each 2 quarts of 
pears- cover closely, and bake in a moderate 
oven — it will take several hours. They will 
keep then indefinitely, if sealed in Mason 

jars as soon as they are done, and while still hot. Fruit that is often 
left on the ground to waste, may be saved thus and made useful. 

CHIPPED PEARS.-^Take pears not quite ripe; pare and core 
them, and cut into long, thin strips; to 8 lbs. of the fruit add 6 lbs. 




COOKED FRUITS 483 

of sugar, the juice of 3 lemons and the rind cut into strips, 2 cups of 
water and 2 tablespoons of ginger; boil the whole until the fruit is 
transparent, and then bottle. 

The Peak belongs to the same order as the quince and the apple, and is one 
of the most valuable fruit trees of temperate climates; there are about 150 varie- 
ties, but none of them keep as well as apples. They are perfectly wholesome when 
ripe, but not when green, although they may then be stewed. A fermented liquor 
called perry is made from the pear. Its acid is tartaric principally. 

PLUM CHARLOTTE.— Take 1 quart of ripe plums, stone, stew, 
and then sweeten them; place slices of bread and butter in the bot- 
tom and around the sides of a large bowl or deep dish, and pour in 
the plums, boiling hot; cover the bowl and set it away to cool gradu- 
ally. Send it to the table cold, and eat with cream. 

DAMSON SAUCE. — Take 6 lbs. ripe damsons, 1 quart cider vin- 
egar, 1^ lbs. sugar; boil until the damsons are soft, then take them 
out, mash them, put back into the syrup and boil from |- to f hour, 
stirring them and watching that they do not stick to the kettle or 
burn. 

PRUNE SAUCE — (1) Soak the prunes over night; in the morn- 
ing boil until they will slip from the stones easily; when used, slip 
them from the stones and serve with thick cream. (2) To 1 lb. 
prunes when put on to stew, add the juice and thin yellow rind of an 
orange; when done (when the stones are loose) sweeten with plenty 
of sugar. This sauce is excellent with rabbit, roast pig, kid, venison 
or fawn. 

STEWED PRUNES — Select good prunes, wash them, and let 
soak 1 or 2 hours if dry and hard; then cover them with boiling 
water, cover closely, and boil until tender and swollen; then for each 
quart of prunes add 2 tablespoons of sugar, and boil a little more, 
but not long enough to break the skins. A little lemon juice may be 
added if they are deficient in flavor. 

Prunes are simply dried plums. They are often used for their laxative effect 
by persons subject to habitual constipation. 

BAKED QUINCES — Choose ripe quinces, wash and core them, 
fill the cavities with sugar, put in a baking pan with a little water 
and bake until soft. They are very fine if eaten with sugar and but- 
ter when hot. 

STEWED QUINCES. — Choose good quinces, and pare, quarter 
and core them; add sufiicient water to \ cover them, cover closely, 
and stew until tender; for each lb. of quinces add 1 cup of sugar, 
cover closely, and cook until a thick syrup. If \ as many apples as 
quinces are used it makes a nice dish. 



484 COOKED FRUITS 

RAISINE. — Take very ripe but quite sound grapes, squeeze the 
juice from them and boil until it is reduced a half. Peel and core 
some pears, quarter them, put them in this grape syrup, and boil till 
it is reduced a third. It may be made with unripe grapes, but then 
sugar must be added, allowing ^ lb. to each pint of grape juice. 

STEWED RHUBARB — Peel it, cut into inch pieces, stew it un- 
til soft, and sweeten to taste. If very sour, it can be allowed to first 
stand 5 minutes in boiling water, then drain it out and put it in 
fresh water to stew. This extracts part of its acid, and less sugar is 
then needed to sweeten it. Rhubarb and green currants mixed to- 
gether, stewed, and sweetened to taste, make a pleasant sauce. 

RHUBARB BUTTER— To each pound of 
rhubarb, which is peeled and chopped, allow 2 
cups sugar; let them simmer together until it is 
done. 

A Hint. — If equal quantities of rhubarb and 
any other kind of fruit are mixed together the 
rhubarb will soon taste exactly like the other fruit. 

Rhubabb is a native of Asia, and its introduction into 
Europe is of quite recent date. It belongs to the buck- 
wheat order. Although it cannot be eaten raw, when cooked 
it is uuch used. All kinds are best for culinary purposes khubakb. 

when blanched. The stalks are sometimes jiartly blanched 

by putting a headless barrel over them and allowing them to grow up through it. 
Its food value is small, not J^ of its solid matter being nutritive. It contains 
about 2% of sugar, which is its chief nutritive element. Its sour taste is due to the 
presence of oxalic acid, of which it contains 0.3^. In some conditions of the body, 
rhubarb, sorrel, and other plants containing oxalic compounds, are best avoided. 
Oxalic acid is always and everywhere an irritant poison, but the amount in rhubarb 
is small. 

TAMARIND SAUCE.— Fill a stone jar with thoroughly ripe 
tamarinds, and put into a cool oven until ,,^ 

quite tender, adding during the stewing "^^^^^^^T" 

enough sugar, but not more than enough, "^SI^Ih^^^^ 

to take away the extreme acidity of the ^^HM^^^^^^ 

fruit; then rub through a sieve. ^"^S^B^^^^^^ 

The tamarind sold in the markets is often adulter- >^Bi^!«l^^^^^»^ 

ated with copper. Its presence may be detected by ^BBBiiyMi^BE^^^*. 

putting in a piece of polished iron or steel and leav- ^SBW^tIP^BI'^k'^ 
ing it for a while; if copper is present the metal will ^^r"\f' ^ ^^ 

TAMAEIND TKEE. 

TOMATO BUTTER— Scald the tomatoes, remove the skins, and 
add \ as much pared, cored and quartered apples as there are toma- 
toes; cook slowly, stirring often, till reduced to the consistency of 




COMPOTES 485 

marmalade; when the apples begin to break, sweeten to taste with 
light brown sugar, and add the juice of 1 lemon and 1 teaspoon gin- 
ger, if desired, for each 6 lbs. of the fruit. 



COMPOTES. 

These are the French method of preparing the English stewed 
fruit. Compotes consist of any kind of fresh fruit, partly cooked in 
a syrup less strong than that used for preserves or jam, and are used 
the same day they are made. If enough sugar is allowed they will 
keep good for 2 or 3 days, in a cool place. If there is any sign of 
mold or fermentation, it may be checked on its first appearance by 
boiling the preparation a second time for 1 or 2 minutes. They are 
more economical and wholesome than pastry, and superior compotes 
can be served for dessert. They are much relished by persons who 
cannot eat raw fruit. They should be served in a glass dish with 
cake. 

The essential thing to remember in making compotes is that 
the fruit should not be cooked as thoroughly as when it is to be 
served as stewed fruit; it must not cook enough to lose either its 
form or color. After the fruit has simmered in the syrup, lift it out 
with a skimmer, arrange it in a glass dish (called a Compoiier) boil 
the syrup a little, let it cool, and pour it over, straining it if it needs 
it. If an insufiicient amount of sugar is used the syrup will not be 
clear and bright. 

Syrup for Compotes. — A good rule is to allow 3 cups of water for 
each lb. of sugar; boil it 15 minutes, removing the scum carefully as 
it rises; the syrup is then ready for use. Articles boiled in this will 
not keep long, it being suited only for dishes intended to be eaten 
immediately; more sugar must be added for syrup intended to keep. 
Also the kind of fruit and its ripeness will aflPect the amount of sugar 
needed. 

COMPOTE OF APPLES.— Select moderate sized apples; either 
pare, halve, and core them, or cook them whole if preferred; then 
add prepared syruja and let them simmer until tender, adding a little 
lemon juice; lift out the apples and boil the syrup a little to thicken 
it; cool it and pour it over the apples. Garnish it with strips of 
green angelica, candied citron, or a border of rice jelly or plain 
boiled rice, or put a slice of lemon on each apple. 

Pears, Peaches, Apricots, Bananas and other fruit may be prepared 
the same way, but it is best to stone peaches or apricots. 



486 COMPOTES 

Oranges shoula be peeled and divided into sections without 
breaking the thin skin; then treat them as directed for apples. 

BANANA COMPOTE. — Peel and slice the bananas and place 
them in a dish (alternate layers of red and white bananas look nice), 
pour over them the hot syrup for compotes, let stand till cold, and 
serve with whipped cream. 

COMPOTE OF FIGS — Dissolve ^ lb. of loaf sugar in 2 cups of 
water; add 1 lb. of dried figs, a little grated lemon rind, and stew all 
very gently for 2 hours. Have some sponge cake ready, cut into 
squares; lay a stewed fig on each square, add a little lemon juice to 
the syrup, which should be pretty thick, and pour it over the figs. 
Serve when cold with thick cream or wipped cream. It makes a 
dainty, cheap and wholesome dessert. 

A Compote of Green Figs can be made with 1| 
pints of green figs and 1 pint of the prepared 
syrup, and proceed as directed for a compote of 
apples. 




The Fig is a native of Persia, Asia Minor, etc. The 
common fig in its native land bears 2 crops a year. The 
figs of commerce come mainly from Turkey and the coun- 
tries bordering on the Mediterranean. The fruit contair]s 
about 57 per cent, of sugar, and is wholesome and nutritious, 
but the seeds are indigestible, and sometimes have an irri- j.jq tkee and 

tant action on the bowels. fbuit. 

GOOSEBERRY COMPOTE— Gooseberries for 
compote should not be very ripe; top and tail them, pour on some 
boiling water, then take them out and plunge them into cold water 
containing a little vinegar, which will assist in keeping the color 
good; then drain them, put them into the syrup, and proceed as 
directed for apples, being careful not to break their skins. 

RASPBERRY COMPOTE.— Use ripe fruit and allow just enough 
red currant juice to cover, or a little water may be mixed with it. 
Use a shallow dish, add a little granulated sugar to the currant juice 
and as soon as it boils put in the raspberries and cover; then remove 
from the fire, and when cold pour into a dish. 

This is delicious with puddings hot or cold, or with plain or 
frozen cream, and is also excellent iced. 

RHUBARB COMPOTE— Cut the rhubarb into inch lengths, 
and boil it fast in plenty of water until soft; at once drain it from 
the water, put it in a dish and sprinkle on sugar (| lb. or so for each 
lb. of fruit); leave until cold, and there will be plenty of syrup. 



COMPOTES 487 

STRAWBERRY COMPOTE— Put alternate layers of strawber- 
ries and sugar in a stew-pan, add a gill of currant syrup for each lb, 
of fruit, shake it over the fire for a minute or two and then turn it 
out to cool. Flavor it if liked. 



JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, 
AND PRESERVES. 

\ I /HESE include all those prei3arations of fresh fruit made with 
) I / a sufficient quantity of sugar to prevent fermentation, with- 
'-^J[^^ out the process of sealing them in cans or bottles while hot. 
They have been used from time immemorial under the 
name of sweetmeats or preserves. A goodly array of preserves and 
jellies in her store-closet will fill the heart of the thorough houses 
wife with great satisfaction, and although it is some work to make 
them she will know that they are pure and healthful, while often 
there is much uncertainty about those bought at the stores. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 

The Fruit. — Fruit intended for preservation should be gathered in 
dry weather, and, if possible, while the morning sun is on it; it will 
then have its finest flavor, and will keep better than when gathered 
at any other time. It should be used as soon as possible after it is 
gathered; if kept a short time, put it in a refrigerator or ice=house — 
in the latter it will keep fresh and plump for several days. Fruit 
that is dusty is not injured by being rinsed quickly in and out of 
cold water, but if gathered during or immediately after a rain the 
juice will be less rich and less full of flavor; if gathered in damp or 
foggy weather it will soon mildew, and so will be worthless unless 
used immediately, and boiled very thoroughly, when it can be made 
into jams or preserves that will keep, but they will be of inferior 
quality and doubtful wholesomeness. There is no greater mistake 
than to imagine that half -ripe or over^ripe fruit is good enough for 
preserves. The fruit should be free from dust, and any which is un- 
sound should be cast aside. Whatever fruit has been boiled should 
be finished up the same day, and never any kept over night 
Quinces, pears, apples, etc., can be kept from turning dark by put- 
ting them in cold water as soon as pared, but it is better to cook 
them as soon as possible. 

The Sugar. — The best quality of sugar either white or brown will 
be found the cheapest in the end. For the more delicate kinds of 
preserves only the best sugar should be used. Jelly made from a 
bluish white sugar will not harden well. An inferior quality of 



JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 489 

sugar is sometimes used for preserves 'or canned fruit, but when that 
is used they will spoil more easily, and will not look as well. If too 
little sugar is used the mixture will not keep, and it is false economy 
to try it. If too much sugar is used, on the other hand, the flavor of 
the fruit will be lost. Coarse brown sugar conceals the flavor of the 
fruit, and moist sugar lacks sweetening power. 

The water used for melting sugar should be pure, clear and entire- 
ly free from sediment, as any cloudiness will impair the clearness 
of the product, and in clear jellies this is objectionable. 

The Utensils Used. — The best vessels to use in cooking fruits for 
preserves or canning are aluminum, porcelaindined kettles or yellow 
ware dishes. Never use tin vessels, as the acid of the fruit acts on 
the tin and the poisonous acetate of lead is formed. To cook the 
fruit equally throughout, the vessel should be rather large in 
diameter and not too deep; if too much heaped the fruit will not 
cook evenly. Close fitting covers should be provided, and put on 
after the scum has done rising, so as to retain the flavor of the fruit 
with the steam. Wire sieves and iron pots destroy the flavor and 
should not be used. Copper or brass kettles should be scoured very 
bright with salt and vinegar before being used, and the fruit removed 
at once on taking it from the fire, but even then some of the poison- 
ous verdigris will be formed by the action of the acids on the metal. 
Porcelain^lined vessels are much better. Aluminum vessels are 
excellent to use, because the citric, malic and other acids found in 
fruits do not aflPect that metal. 

Fruit should be stirred with either an aluminum, silver or wood- 
en spoon — the latter is best. Iron, tin or pewter ones will spoil the 
color. 

The Pbinoiples Involved, — -Although the sugar passes easily into the state of 
fermentation, and is in fact the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous 
stage of that process, it will not ferment at all if the quantity be suificient to con- 
stitute a very strong syrup; hence syrups are used to preserve fruits and other 
vegetable substances from ttie changes they would undergo if left to themselves. 
Before sugar was in use honey was employed in preserving, but it is now replaced 
by sugar. In putting up juice or fruit, the object is to boil it with sugar to such a 
consistency that it will neither ferment nor mildew. 

In boiling most fruits, it is best to boil them in water first, and add the sugar 
when the fruit has become soft and the juice is drawn out. The first object in 
preserving fruit is to soften it by boiling in water, so that the sugar by which it is 
preserved may penetrate all through it, and so preserve it well. The more thor- 
oughly the skimming is done the clearer the preserves will be. 

Fruit jellies owe their jelly=like consistency to the presence of a sort of gum = 
like substance which they contain called pectose, or pectic acid. This substance, 
although soluble in fruit juice, when mixed with sugar, exposed to heat, and 
cooled, will coagulate. Although in appearance so much resembling gelatine, from 
a chemical standpoint it is entirely different, being nearly allied to guvi, but it has 
about the same food value as the sugar with which it is mixed. The pectose di.)es 
not develop in fruit until it begins to ripen, but as soon as the fruit is over-ripe it 



490 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 

loses its gelatinizing property. For jellies, therefore, fruit should be gathered ar, 
soon as fully ripe, or just a little before. Overscooking jelly also destroys the gel- 
atinizing properties of the pectose. 

The chemical composition of the various preserves is simply the composition of 
the fruit juice and fruit itself, with the loss of a few volatile constituents, and 
the addition of cane sugar. 

Home-made preserves, jams, etc., when properly prepared and well made, are 
much superior to those which are sold in the market. Professor Sharpless says 
that " apple sauce is frequently pumpkin boiled with cider; that raspberry jam 
offered for sale is often sour, and that strawberry jam is frequently made from the 
refuse strawberries of the market." 

Putting in Jars and Keeping — Put jellies, jams, and marmalades in 
small glasses, which will prevent the frequent opening necessary 
with large ones. The usual method has been to lay on top a piece of 
paper dipped in brandy or alcohol and cut to fit nicely, and then 
paint a larger piece with white of egg and tie it on over the other — 
some people tie on parchment. A much simpler and easier method 
for jellies is when they get cold to pour on melted parafine. It 
hardens almost immediately, and then a piece of brown paper can be 
tied on to keep out the dust. The parafine will lift off easily, and it 
can be washed, kept, and used again by remelting. 

If any of the preparations become candied, set the glasses in 
water and let it boil around them, which will remedy it. If jellies 
are put in wine bottles for exportation, put 1 tablespoon of alcohol in 
each bottle before sealing. Look over jellies the last of the summer, 
and reboil them if there are any indications of fermentation. 

The glasses or jars into which jams, preserves, etc., are put, 
should be perfectly dry, and the closet in which they are stored 
should be neither so warm that they ferment, nor so damp that they 
become moldy. 

Preventing Mold. — Jellies can be kept from molding by covering 
the top, when cool, with pulverized sugar, melted parafine, or oil, like 
salad or cotton seed. 

Mold. — Remember that mold is a low form of life (it is a plant) and a certain 
amount of moisture is necessary to its growth. Its seeds are so small that they 
penetrate the tiniest crack, and the mold spreads readily from one thing to anoth- 
er. If specks of mold appear, the plant can be killed by putting the jars in a 
well*heated oven, or by putting them in a pan of water and letting it boil around 
them. Its presence is always an injury, detracting from both the wholesomeness 
and flavor of the article it attacks. 

Keep jellies, jams, etc., in a dark, cool, dry closet. Paste on the 
side of each glass a little strip of paper bearing the name of its con- 
tents. If glass jars are used for preserves, wrap 2 or 3 thicknesses of 
paper around each one, which will exclude the light and keep them 
from bleaching. 

Coloring — The only coloring suitable for any fruit preparation is 



JELLIES 491 

some vegetable color, like those we give for " Frostings " in our 
chapter on " Cakes," but they should be used sparingly. 



JELLIES. 

These are made with clear fruit juice and sugar, the usual rule 
being to mix them in equal proportions. As, owing to the change in 
its pectose, fruit will not make jelly when it is over-ripe, it should be 
gathered for this purpose just as it turns ripe. If you wish clear, 
firm jelly, do not make it in damp or rainy weather. 

When a sweet fruit, like the pear, etc., is used in making jelly, 
add some very sour apple juice — say about half; or for strawberries 
use red currant juice. Alone, the sweet fruits do not make good jel- 
ly because they lack pectose — the substance which causes fruit juice 
to jelly. Gelatine is sometimes added with cherries and some other 
fruits; allow a package to each | gallon of juice when it is used. 
Grapes are unreliable. Crab apples jelly readily. Combining 2 
fruits, like | currants to ^ raspberries, improves the flavor of jams 
and jellies. Another excellent combination for jelly is ^ apple juice 
to |- peach juice. A delightful jelly is made from swamp huckleber- 
ies or low blackberries. Barberries, currants, apples, grapes and 
quinces all jelly well. Damsons make an excellent jelly. 

To Make Jelly. — In making jellies cut large fruit into small pieces; 
add water enough to prevent the fruit from burning — apples and 
quinces need just enough water to cover them, and currants less; 
cover the kettle and boil slowly until the fruit is soft. Then put 
both fruit and juice into the jelly bag, and allow it to drip, setting it 
in a warm place. Toward the last, squeeze the bag gently with the 
hand, or use 2 spoons, but do not be too anxious to squeeze out all 
the juice, as the more you squeeze it the cloudier you will make the 
jelly.* Measure the juice, and the general rule is to allow 1 lb. 
sugar to each pint of juice, but quinces need only f lb. sugar to each 
lb. of juice. Now put the juice on the stove, bring it to a boil, and 
continue to boil without being covered, until done — 20 minutes being 
the rule for most fruits; skim frequently, as the more perfect the 
skimming the clearer the jelly will be ; do not boil it too hard. Have 



*Note. — Squeezing all the juice out of the bag makes the jelly cloudy; if it is 
not squeezed, much of the contents of the bag is often wasted. To prevent the 
■waste some housewives use the juice which will drip through withoiit squeezing, 
and make a clear jelly for table use. The balance they squeeze out, and with it 
they make a second quality of jelly to use for cake, puddings, sauces, etc. It is 
good, but not so clear. 



492 JELLIES 

the sugar ready heated (heat it in the oven wnile the juice is boiling, 
stirring it frequently from the bottom), and now drop it into the 
boiling juice, stirring constantly. Let it just come to a boil, and put 
at once into the jelly glasses; or another plan is to have a heated 
pitcher ready, with a piece of cheese cloth wet in liot water spread 
over the top. Pour the jelly, a dipperful at a time, through the strainer 
into the pitcher, and then turn it from the pitcher into the glasses, 
and set away to cool. The jelly glasses can be standing ready in a pan 
of hot water; take them out, drain, and turn in the jelly. 

In making jelly it should boil neither too long nor too short a 
time; if it boils too long a time it will be discolored and its flavor in- 
jured; if insufficiently boiled it will not keep well. The longer it 
boils the darker it becomes. If the juice is very watery, and the 
effort is made to evaporate the water by long boiling, the gelatiniz- 
ing property is destroyed, and it becomes gummy and will not jelly. 

To Test Jelly — There are various ways: (1) Drop a little into cold 
water or on a cold plate, stirring it for «, few seconds, and if it coagu- 
lates it is done; or (2) let 1 or 2 droj)s fall from the skimmer into a 
glass of cold water; if it reaches the bottom a solid drop of jelly, with- 
out dissolving in the water, it is done; or (3) diji the skimmer in and 
out, holding it sideways over the jelly; if it runs off in only one place 
it is not cooked enough; if it runs around the skimmer and drips off 
in 2 or 3 places in wide thick drops, it is done. 

Hardening Jelly. — Jelly which is not quite as firm as desired can be 
shrunk by setting the glasses in the sun. 

To prevent breaking the glasses when pouring in the hot jelly, sev- 
eral plans are in use. One plan is to rub the glass over on the out- 
side with lard or butter, and then pour in the first 1 or 2 spoonfuls 
slowly. Another is to stand the glasses while being filled on a folded 
towel wet with cold water. Another plan is to put a silver spoon in 
the jar; but the folded towel is the best plan. 

Jelly bags should be made of white flannel, and wrung out of hot 
water, to prevent their absorbing too much of the juice. Tie the top 
of the bag closely when the liquor is all in, to prevent the flavor from 
evaporating. A wooden frame on which to tie the jelly bag while it 
is dripping, is a convenience. Use the bags for nothing but making 
jelly. 

Waste nothing when making jellies; the pulp can be put up as 
marmalade for tarts and cake fillings. 

To remove jelly from a glass, dip it into hot water for an instant; 
then take it out, and the jelly will come out easily and whole. 

The prevention of mold, keeping jellies, etc., are discussed in the pre- 
ceding "General Suggestions" (which see). 



JELLIES 493 

APPLE JELLY. — Use good, sour apples; slice them thin, seeds, 
skins and all; let them simmer with only the addition of a little water, 
until well cooked and soft; strain, add 1 lb. sugar to each pint of 
juice, and finish as directed previously for making jelly. If desired, 
a little lemon flavor can be added. 

PLUM AND APPLE JELLY can be made by using 1 part 
plum juice to 2 parts sour apple juice, and finishing like other jelly. 
It is very good. 

CRAB APPLE JELLY — Cut them into pieces, but do not pare 
or remove the seeds; boil until soft in a jar set in hot water, 
adding barely water enough to cover them ; mash them, drain off the 
juice without squeezing; use 1 lb. sugar for each pint of juice, and 
finish as before directed. A little lemon juice can be added for flavor 
if desired; or a little stick cinnamon boiled with the juice and taken 
out before putting in the sugar, is good. 

The pulp and juice which remain can be made into marmalade. 
Add more water and cook to a pulp; strain through a sieve to remove 
skin, cores and seeds. Add brown sugar to the pulp, pound for 
pound. It needs careful watching and stirring to prevent burning. 

DRIED APPLE JELLY.— Boil the dried apples until tender, 
strain through the jelly bag, and allow f lb. sugar to the pint of 
juice; adding a little lemon juice will improve the flavor; then finish 
like other jellies. 

BLACKBERRY JELLY. — Choose berries which are under rather 
than over ripe; the wild berries are best. Cook till soft, adding very 
little water; strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1 lb. sugar to 
each pint of juice. Finish like other jellies. 

Raspberry and Strawberry Jellies are made just the same way. 

RED CURRANT JELLY.— Choose good, ripe currants; pick 
them over, but do not stem them; wash, drain and mash them in a 
porcelain kettle; it will darken the jelly to heat them now; use a 
wooden masher; drain over night in the jelly bag, but do not squeeze 
it. Use 1 pint sugar to 1 pint juice; boil and finish as directed for 
jellies. After putting ^n the hot sugar, let it boil till it thickens 
when exposed to the air on the spoon (which will be in 3 to 5 
minutes) and then put it into the glasses immediately. A second 
grade of jelly, not so clear, can be made by squeezing the remaining 
juice out of the currants, and finishing it like jelly. 

Various Jellies. — A very nice jelly is made by using red antl white 
eurrants in equal parts. A raspberry and curraiit jolly can be made 



494 



JELLIES 



by using 1 X3art red currants and 2 parts red raspberries. It is very- 
fine. A icild cherry and currant jelly can be made by stewing 2 
parts wild cherries (stones and all) and 1 part red currants. 

White currant jelly can also be made like other currant jellies. 

CHERRY JELLY.— Pick the fruit (Morellos are best) when 
not quite ripe; wash and put on the stove in cold water with the pits 
in; let it simmer (not boil) until the cherries are white and tender; 
strain through the jelly bag, 
allow 1 pint sugar to 2 pints 
juice, and cook briskly until 
done. Cooks sometimes add \ 
part of red currant juice, but 
cherry jelly can be made without 
it. Leave the pits in because a 
large part of the ^Dectose is in 
the pits. 

CRANBERRY JELLY. 

Pick over the cranberries care- 
fully, and put 2 cups water in 2 
quarts of cranberries; let boil, 
stirring occasionally, until soft 
enough to mash; strain, and fin- ceanberby. 

ish like other jellies. Use 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pint of juice. 

The Cbanbeeey is nearly related to the bilberry. The species are all natives of 
cold countries, and grow well on swampy land. The fruit is too acid to be eaten 
raw, but has a very pleasant taste when cooked. The juice contains malic and 
citric acid. 

QUAVA JELLY — Take ripe guavas, 
pare, quarter, and drop the sections into 
cold water. Simmer them till tender in 
water enough to nearly cover them; 
strain, hanging the bags up to drain all 
night, but do not squeeze them; boil the 
juice 1 hour, uncovered, skim, and add 
white sugar, using 1 scant pint to each 
pint of juice. Let simmer till the jelly 
is clear, add lemon or lime juice to taste, 
and let simmer ^ hour more, skimming 
frequently. Pour into jars and seaJ 
when cold. Guava jelly can be made 
from any species of guava, and it is 
known the world over as one of the most delicious of all conserves. 





i. MEXICAN GUAV» 

2. WEST INDIAN GUAVt 



JELLIES 



495 




GOOSEBERRY JELLY.— Take full-grown, but not quite ripe 
gooseberries; cover with water and boil until they are soft; strain the 
juice, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice; finish like other 
jelly. 

GRAPE JELLY.— Isabella, Concord or Clinton grapes are best 
to use; have them freshly picked, and finish as directed for other 
jellies, using 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pint of juice. 

GREEN GRAPE JELLY — Use green grapes; wash, stem, and 
cook till soft with a very little water; mash with a wooden pestle, 
strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1^ lbs. sugar to each pint of 
juice. Finish like other jelly. It makes the nicest jelly there is to 
go with poultry and game, and is superior to ripe grape jelly, 

MANGO JELLY. — Make as directed for guava 
jelly, only peel the mangoes, stone them, and 
throw them, before being cooked, into a very weak 
solution of lime or lemon juice. 

PEACH JELLY — Use 1 part very sour apple 
juice to 2 parts peach juice, and make like other 
jellies. Equal parts are sometimes used. A little 
lemon juice is sometimes added. 

Pear Jelly can be made the same as peach jelly. 

PLUM JELLY — Choose the common blue 
plums, wash them, cook until soft in a porcelain 
kettle, adding Icup water to each 2 quarts plums; 
then drain through the jelly bag, and finish like 
other jellies. 

Damson Jelly is made the same way. 

The Plum has been cultivated from ancient times, and 
the lirst fine varieties were probably introduced into Europe 
from the East, the Damson or Damascene taking its name 
from Damascus. When perfectly ripe the best varieties are 
wholesome. Some varieties are too astringent, though by jJA.uoui^a. 

baking they loose much of their bad qualities, and are used 

in tarts and preserves, but they should be used with moderation. If eaten unripe, 
they are almost sure to cause diarrhea. They are not very rich in sugar, but 
contain much pectose or vegetable jelly, which gives them their gelatinizing 
quality. 

QUINCE JELLY. — Cut the quinces into small pieces, and put 
them, skin, seeds and all, into a preserving kettle (a large part of the 
pectose is found in the seeds); cover with water and boil till soft; 
mash, and drain in the jelly bag over night; allow 1 lb. sugar to each 
pint of juice, and boil to the jelly degree. The pulp of tlie quinces, 
left after making the jelly, can be rubbed through a fine colander. 




496 MARMALADES 

and, using as much sugar as pulp, boil them together for marmalade. 
Another plan is to use the best portions of the fruit for canning or 
preserves, and make jelly with the hard parts, cores and skin, and 
this works well. Sour apple juice is sometimes mixed with quince 
juice. 

RHUBARB JELLY — Cut the rhubarb into pieces about 1 inch 
long, but do not peel it; cook it to a soft pulp in water enough to 
cover it; strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each 
pint of juice; finish like other jelly. Apple and rhubarb mixed 
together, and finished like other jellies, is very nice; flavor it with 
lemon. 

WILD PLUM JELLY.— Gather wild plums just before they 
ripen; use 7 pints of water to 5 pints of plums, and boil until they 
fall to pieces; then strain through the jelly bag; allow 1 lb. sugar to 
each pint of juice, and boil rapidly to the jelly degree. They make 
very nice jelly. Some cooks boil the plums with water until they 
burst, and then throw it away because of its bitterness; then boil the 
plums again in water to cover them until they fall to pieces; then 
finish as above. The pulj) remaining can be made into a good 
marmalade by using the pulp and sugar pound for pound. 

TUTTI FRUTTI JELLY — Use equal quantities of red currants, 
red raspberries, strawberries and morello cherries; stone the latter 
carefully saving all the juice; mix together all the fruit and squeeze 
it well; after straining through the jelly bag, allow 2 lbs. sugar to 
each pint of juice, and finish like other jelly. 



MARMALADES. 

These are made from the pulp of fruit boiled with sugar. If 
marmalade is made at the same time with jelly, the pulp left from 
the jelly can be used and waste prevented. Rub the pulp through a 
sieve, and for acid fruits the rule is to allow equal weights of sugar 
and pulp; sweet fruits need a little less. If too much sugar is used 
the sides and tops of the vessels containing the marmalade will be 
covered with a coating of sugar, and it will candy or crystallize; 
fermentation will take place if too little sugar is used, or the boiling 
is insufficient. The rule is to boil slowly -^ to | hour, with frequent 
stirring to prevent burning. 

To Test Both Marmalade and Jam let a spoon of it cool on a plate,- 
it will be done if it looks glittering and dry, and neither moisture nor 
juice collects on it. 



MARMALADES 



497 



If the sugar is not added until the fruit is mashed and cooked, 
less boiling will be needed, and the marmalade will be better and 
smoother. When done, put it in glasses as explained in the pro- 
ceeding " General Suggestions." Keep in a cool, dry place. 

The term marmalade is derived from the Portuguese marmelo, 
meaning a quince, to which it was first applied; but it has come to 
be applied to similar preparations of any fruit Marmalades are 
very wholesome, and serve to stimulate 
the appetite, 

GRAPE MARMALADE.— Pulp the 

grapes, but put the skins and pulp 
together into the preserving kettle and 
let boil. When the skins are tender 
let cool until you can work the mass 
through a fine colander. Wash the 
kettle and return the strained grapes, 
set over the fire, and add the same 
measure of sugar as there is of the grape. 
Let boil 5 minutes, and put hot into 
jelly tumblers. If the grapes are not 
quite ripe the marmalade will be more 
firm. 

ORANGE MARMALADE Pare 

the yellow rind carefully off the oranges; remove the thick white 
rind and squeeze the pulp through a sieve; add | cup of water 
to 4 lbs. fruit, and set on to boil; add the yellow parings of the rind, 
cut into pieces, and boil ^ hour, or until the rind is soft; the juice, 
pul^D and yellow peel of a lemon can be added if liked; add 1 lb. sugar 
to 1 lb. pulp, boil a few minutes and put into jelly glasses. 

Rhubarb can be added instead of the lemon if desired; use 1 quai't 
of sliced rhubarb for 6 oranges and boil with them. It makes a fine 
combination and gives a variety. 

PEACH MARMALADE — Choose fine, ripe peaches; pare, stone 
and cut them up; add a very little water and cook in the farina 
boiler until reduced to a pulp; pass through a colander and allow | 
lb. sugar to each lb. of pulp; put it on the stove and boil until it 
will jelly, or until it will drop from the spoon in clots. Stir it from 
the bottom with a wooden spoon all the time it is on the fire to pre- 
vent burning. When done, seal in jars. 

Apricots, Apples, Pears, Quinces, and other Fruits can be prepared in 

the same way. 
'S2 




GONOOBD GEAPES. 



498 MAKMALADES 

PLUM MARMALADE.— Stone the plums, and put in the ket- 
tle with a very little water, boil till the fruit softens, and then mash 
to a pulp with a wooden pestle; do not take it from the stove, but 
add 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. of pulp, and boil 15 or 20 minutes longer; 
then put it in jars. 

QUINCE MARMALADE.— Pare, core and slice the quinces; put 
the seeds, cores and skins in the kettle, add barely enough water to 
cover them, and boil sloivly ^ hour; strain through cloth, and when 
nearly cold add it to the quinces in the farina boiler and boil until 
it is reduced to a smooth paste, mashing and stirring the quinces 
with a wooden spoon; if the flavor is desired the juice of 2 oranges 
can be added to each 3 lbs of pulp; now add f lb. sugar to each 
pound of fruit, and boil 10 minutes longer, stirring continually. 
Then put in jars. 

No. 2 — Quinces which are not good enough to be utilized in 
other ways can be used; wash, core, but do not 
pare them, and cut into pieces; add 1 teacup 
of water to each pound of fruit, and boil slowly, 
mashing and stirring with a wooden spoon until 
soft; add | lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp; boil them to- 
gether for 5 or 10 minutes, strain through a 
colander and jjut in jelly glasses. 

Sour Apples or Crab Apples can be put up in like 
manner. 

The Quince is a native of India, whence it was intro- 
duced to Greece. The ancients preserved it in honey, or sweet wine reduced 
^ by boiling. It makes a fine marmalade and a little added to apple pie ioi- 
proves the flavor. 

RASPBERRY MARMALADE.— Either use the raspberries alone, 
or add 1 cup of red currant juice to each 2 lbs. fruit; boil 30 minutes, 
mashing and stirring well with a wooden spoon; add | lb. sugar to 
every pound of fruit, and cook 20 minutes more. 

Blackberry Marmalade can be made the same way, but without 
any currant juice. 

RHUBARB MARMALADE— Cut the rhubarb into pieces 1 or 
2 inches long; to each 1^ lbs. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. sugar, -^ of a 
lemon peel cut thin, and ^ oz. of bitter almonds blanched and 
divided. Boil all well together and put up like other marmalades. 

STRAWBERRY MARMALADE OR JAM. -Allow 5 lbs. sugar 
and 1 lb. currants to 6 lbs. strawberries; mash the currants in the 
preserving pan with 1 cup water, put it on the stove and boil; then 




FRUIT CHEESES 



499 



add the strawberries (which should be picked over), then press and 
rub them into an earthenware pan through a fine sieve. Let the 
sugar boil to the consistency of thick molasses, add the fruit pulp, 
and boil briskly, with constant stirring, for 20 minutes. Skim it, 
and put into jars. 

TOMATO MARMALADE.— First scald, peel and slice the 
tomatoes; allow 2 lbs. sugar to 1 lb. tomatoes, and boil them down 
together until well thickened; then add 1 tablespoon powdered gin- 
ger, and the juice and peel of 2 lemons, for every 3 lbs. of tomatoes. 
Boil about 3 hours, skimming off the froth that rises; wl c-n very 
thick put in jars. 

VEGETABLE MARROW MARMALADE — 

Pare and core the marrow, cut in thin slices, add 
12 oz. of sugar for each pound of marrow and let 
stand all night; then bring to a boil, stirring con- 
stantly, and cook till almost soft; turn into a bowl 
and when cold add 2 good tablespoons of orange 
or lemon marmalade for every pound of marrow 
used; put back on stove, stir to the boil and sim- 
mer until it sets. 




VEGETABLE MAEEOW 



FRUIT CHEESES. 

Fruit cheeses are somewhat like marmalades, and they are gen- 
erally used for desserts. Stone fruits, like plums, quinces, etc., make 
the best. The method is usually to boil the fruit until it is soft 
enough to pass through a sieve, and then the pulp is boiled with 
sugar until it will solidify when cold. Cherries are often used, and 
jerries sometimes. 



APRICOT CHEESE.— Wipe apricots, AW^%^\ 

cut them into pieces, and take equal quanti- 
ties by weight of apricots and sugar; wipe 
the inside of the preserving pan with fine 
salad oil, put in the fruit, and boil it to a 
pulp, stirring all the time: add the sugar, 
continue to stir, and boil sharply till it is a 
golden brown; it will cling to the spoon 
when done, and leave the pan clear. Pour Aiim (n> 

it into small molds and cover. It takes 
about 6 hours to make. Some people blanch and shred the 
and add them. 




kernels. 



500 FRUIT PASTES 

The Apbioot is a native of Armenia, and belongs to the same species as the 
plum. Its delicious fruit much resembles the peach. It only keeps a short time, 
and is either eateu fresh or is made into preserves or jelly. It has sometimes been 
condemned for its laxative qualities, but this may have been caused by eating the 
fruit when unripe, or in too great quantities. Delicate persons should use a lib- 
eral quantity of powdered sugar with them if they eat them uncooked. The ker- 
nels are sometimes used for the same purposes as almonds. Apricots contain 
rather less water, and more sugar and pectine than peaches. 

ALMACK CHEESE — Split 4 doz. plums, and take out the stones; 
pare, core, and slice 2 doz. pears and 2 doz. apples; put the whole in 
layers into a stone jar, and put them into a cool oven; when suffi- 
ciently tender press them through a coarse sieve into a preserving 
pan, and stir in 1 lb. of sugar to every pound of fruit. Stir them 
over a moderate fire until very firm. Cut into slices after it has be- 
come sufficiently cool. 

QUINCE CHEESE. —This is simply marmalade which has been 
boiled down very thick, and put into little jars. It will be as solid 
as cheese when turned out, and it can be served for tea or luncheon, 
cut into slices like cheese. 

PLUM CHEESE — Add enough water to keep from burning, and 
boil the i^lums; now mash them, strain, and add ^ lb. good brown 
sugar to 1 lb. plums; boil down until thick, with continual stirring, 
and i)ut in small jars. It will turn out firm as cheese, and can be 
served for tea or luncheon cut in slices. 



FRUIT PASTES. 

These are a kind of marmalade, consisting of the i)ulp of fruits, 
first evaporated to a proper consistency, and then boiled with sugar. 
The mixture is then poured into a mold, or spread on sheets of tin, 
and afterwards dried in the oven or on the stove until it assumes the 
form of a paste. Strips may be cut from one of these sheets and 
formed into any shajDC desired. Use only fine white sugar for these 
pastes. Use a wooden spoon to stir them with, and watch them care- 
fully, as, if they burn in cooking it will spoil them. The cakes can 
be cut up and kept in tin or paper boxes with layers of paper be- 
tween; they are fine with desserts. 

APRICOT PASTE — Use ripe apricots; put them in a preserving 
pan with a little sugar, and place them on the side of the range to re- 
duce them to a paste; rub them through a hair sieve, allow ^ lb. 
sugar to 1 lb, pulp, and boil it 10 minutes; then finish like apple 
paste. 




APPLE AND BLOSSOM. 



FRUIT PASTES 501 

APPLE PASTE — Choose sound ripe apples, 
peel, core tliem, and cook in a little water till quite 
soft; rub them through a hair sieve, using a wooden 
spoon; weigh the pulp and put it in the preserving 
pan, with the same weight of sugar, and boil 20 
minutes; remove it, spread out thin on plates or in 
molds, and dry in a cool oven or on a cool stove. If 
desired it can be colored with some of the vegetable 
colors elsewhere given. 

The Apple belongs to the rose order. The cultivated 
varieties have sprung from the wild apple or crab. This de- 
lightful fruit is made very wholesome by baking or boiling. 
The acid is mainly malic. The hard, acid kinds are unwhole- 
some if eaten raw, but by cooking a great deal of their acid 
is decomposed and converted into sugar. A large part of its acid is turned to 
sugar as the fruit ripens, or even after it is gathered, by the process of maturation. 
When apples decay, the sugar is changed to a bitter principle, and the gum be- 
comes moldy and offensive. Old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the 
effects of the apple when eaten with it, probably from the volatile alkali or ammo- 
nia of the cheese neutralizing the acid. 

CURRANT PASTE — Take red or white currants, pick them 
over carefully, rub through a sieve, and put the mashed fruit in a 
pan on the fire, stirring it until it forms a paste; allow 1^ lbs. sugar 
for 1 lb. pulp, mix them together, and boil 20 minutes. Finish like 
other paste. 

ORANGE PASTE. — Press the juice out of 5 Seville oranges, 
and boil them until the rinds are very soft indeed; with a thin 
wooden or silver spoon scoop out all the pulp, and pound the rinds as 
fine as possible in a mortar with |- the extracted juice. Rub it all 
through a hair sieve, and simmer on the fire until it becomes like 
marmalade. Empty it out, weigh it, and allow 2 lbs. sugar for 1 lb. 
pulp; boil it 10 minutes, and spread out and dry like apple paste. 

Lemon Paste can be made the same way, but do not use any of the 
juice. 

PEACH PASTE — Out the peaches into small pieces, and cook, 
with barely enough water to cover them, until reduced to a pulp; 
allow ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and boil 20 minutes; finish like other 
paste. 

PLUM PASTE — Any kind of preserving plums M-ill do; stone 
them and boil, with very little water, to a jam; rub through a hair 
sieve, put on the stove, and reduce to a paste; allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 
lb. pulp, £lnd cook 20 minutes; finish like other paste. 

RASPBERRY PASTE — Take 2 quarts of ripe red raspberries, 
put them in an eathern jar and place it in a kettle of boiling water; 



502 JAMS 

boil until the juice is well separated, then pulp them through a fine 
colander. Mix with the fruit an equal weight of sugar, put it in a 
sauce=pan, and cook until it is a firm paste — stirring constantly to 
prevent burning; spread on plates to nearly dry in the oven,* then cut 
it in squares, cover both sides well with pulverized sugar, and pack 
in paper boxes with layers of white paper between. 
Strawberry Paste can be made the same way. 



JAMS. 

These are made with large fruit cut into small pieces, or with 
whole small fruits. In making common jams the fruit should be 
well boiled before the sugar is added, and care should be taken that 
it is not so much thickened that the sugar will not easily dissolve. 
The old rule was equal amounts of fruit and sugar, but acid fruits re- 
quire more sugar than those which are sweet. If they burn at all in 
cooking the flavor is spoiled; to prevent this close attention is needed 
and constant stirring. Jam will not keep well unless sufficiently 
boiled, and enough sugar is used, but do not use too much sugar. 

As jams and preserves made from stone fruits are apt to ferment, 
care should be taken to get rid of the moisture, and only enough 
water added in cooking to simply prevent burning. 

In the "General Suggestions" previously given we explain about 
putting jams into glasses or jars when done. The hardening 
of fruit is discussed under "Preserves," but mashing also prevents 
hardening. 

APPLE JAM — Pare, core and slice the apples; boil them till 
soft, add I lb. sugar for 1 lb. fruit, and cook till done. A fine flavor 
will be imparted by tying in muslin a little lemon peel, ginger and 
cloves and boiling it with the fruit; take it out when the jam is done. 

APPLE GINGER. (Imitation of Preserved Ginger).— Boil to a 
syrup 3 oz. of ginger, 3 lbs. of sugar, the juice and | the rind of a 
lemon and 1^ pints of water; take out the rind and add 3 lbs. of ap- 
ples pared, cored, and cut into irregular strips to imitate ginger; 
boil 50 or 60 minutes. They should not break and should be soft 
and clear; there will be a good supply of syrup. Put in jars when 
cold. 

BLACKBERRY JAM— Take 5 lbs. of fruit, mash it, and boil 
10 minutes; then add 7 lbs. sugar, and boil 20 minutes, stirring to 
keep from burning. Put into the glasses hot; tie up when cold 



JAMS 508 

CHERRY JAM. — Before stoning the cherries, weigh them, and 
to 1 lb, cherries allow -| lb, sugar; then stone them and boil until the 
juice is nearly evaporated, stirring constantly; then add the sugar 
and add also 1 pint of red currant juice for each 6 lbs. of cherries 
used, and add also 1 lb. sugar for each pint of currant juice used; 
then finish like other jams. 

RED CURRANT JAM — Pick over the currants carefully, and 
allow I lb. sugar to each pound fruit; let them simmer in the farina 
boiler until soft; then set aside until next morning, and cook them 
gently in a porcelain kettle 25 minutes; then put into glasses. 

White Currant and Barberry Jam can be made the same way, but for 
barberries allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb, berries. 

GOOSEBERRY JAM.— Pick the gooseberries just as they begin 
to turn; stem, wash and weigh them; to 4 lbs. of fruit add |- teacup 
of water, boil until soft, then add 4 lbs sugar, and boil until clear. 
The jam will be clear and amber=colored if the fruit is picked at the 
right stage, and much nicer if it is not picked until fully ripe. 

GRAPE JAM. — Allow f lb, sugar. to 1 lb, grapes; squeeze the. 
pulp from the skin; boil the pulp a few minutes and remove the 
seeds by passing through a sieve; then add the skins and sugar, 
boil until it thickens, and put up like other jam. 

Green Grape Jam is made the same way, 

ORANGE JAM. — Sweet oranges are best; remove the rind 
and then the seeds by passing it through a colander or sieve; to 1 lb. 
pulp and juice allow 1 lb. sugar; boil 10 minutes, add the sugar and 
cook till done; put u^d like other jams. 

PINEAPPLE JAM. — Pare it, cut in small jjieces, and cook in 
just enough water to cover until tender. Allow | lb. sugar to 1 lb. 
fruit; make the sugar into a syrup, add the pineapple and boil 10 
minutes; then put up like other jams. 

Pineapple Parings. — After the fruit has been trimmed for making 
jams, etc., wash the jDeel in warm water, dry it, put it in a sauceqaan, 
add cold water to cover, and simmer h hour, or so; then strain the 
liquid, boil it with sugar, and it.can be served with puddings, etc.; or 
if essence of pineaxjple is added when cold it will serve for ices 
sweet sauces for puddings and the like. 

PLUM JAM.— Allow £- lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit before it is stoned; 
then take out the stones and stew the fruit in a little water till soft; 
pass it through a coarse sieve, add the sugar, and cook till done. Put 
up like other jam. 



504 JAMS 

QUINCE JAM. — Cook any desired amount of quinces until 
soft, in as little water as possible without burning; pour off the 
water and rub the fruit with a wooden spoon until smooth; add 10 
oz. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, let it boil 20 minutes, and remove it from the 
fire, put up like other jams. 

RASPBERRY JAM — Mash the berries, and treat as directed 
for strawberries. If 2 parts raspberries and 1 part red currants 
are mixed it makes a fine jam, or add a little currant juice. 

RHUBARB JAM — Allow 1 lb. sugar for 1 lb. rhubarb; cut up 
the fruit into small pieces, put on the sugar, and let it stand several 
hours, or until next morning; then take out the fruit, and boil the 
syrup until it thickens; then put in the fruit and let it simmer 
gently until done, stirring it to prevent its burning; then put in 
glasses. 

STRAWBERRY JAM — Hull the berries, put them over the 
fire, and boil gently ^ hour, keeping them constantly stirred; allow | 
lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; remove the berries from the fire, add the 
sugar, and then boil them again ^ hour. Then put in jars as before 
directed. 

The Strawbebey was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and is indi- 
genous in all temperate climates. It does not contain 
mtich nutritive matter, but is very wholesome. The seed» 
like pericarps are not easy of digestion and sometimes 
cause intestinal irritation en which account some j^hysi- 
cians have recommended passing them through muslin 
before being eaten. They have more water in their com- 
position than gooseberries or currants, and they are 
cooling, laxative, and slighly diuretic. Some epicures 
grate the zest of an orange over them, thinking it 
imjiroves the taste, especially when a little sugar is added 
also. 

TOMATO JAM — Use equal weights of 
sugar and tomatoes; peel and slice them, add 
the sugar and let simmer gently until done, 

which should be in about an hour. A pleasant flavor may be im- 
parted by tying lemon peel and ginger in a muslin bag, and letting 
it cook with the fruit, lifting it out when that is cooked. 

VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.— Peel and core 6 lbs. of medium 
sized vegetable marrows cut into strips about 2 inches long; cover 
it with 6 lbs. of sugar and let stand all night; then add the juice and 
grated rind of 4 lemons and 1 oz. of bruised ginger and boil 1^ hours, 
skimming well. A pinch of cayenne is considered an improvement 
by some cooks. 




PEESERVES 505 

PRESERVES. 

The fruit used for preserves should be perfectly sound, fresh 
and ri^De, and use good sugar. If you would have good preserves 
work carefully. A very large amount is less easily handled than less. 

The old rule of pound for pound of sugar and fruit is hardly 
reliable, because fruits differ so much in sweetness. If too much 
sugar is used the fruit may be unpleasantly sweet, and very little of 
the fruit jQavor left. 

Cooking the Fruit. — Large fruits should cook until a broom straw 
will readily pierce them. To avoid burning, boil them gently. They 
must be soft enough to be readily penetrated by the sugar ( as that is 
what preserves them) but that is all. Over boiling is to be avoided, 
and small fruit especially, like strawberries and raspberries, are 
spoiled if much cooked. The object aimed at is to have the sugar 
thoroughly permeate the fruit enough to preserve it, but without 
injuring its shape more than necessary. Fruit is darkened in color 
and its flavor injured by long boiling. Small fruits and berries 
should be taken out of the syruj), when done, with a small strainer, 
as a cup will not separate the syrup from them. 

When the fruit has simmered in the syrup until done quite 
through, it may be taken out with a skimmer and set on dishes to 
cool; then boil up the syrup until it begins to jelly, put back the 
fruit, boil it up once, and then put it into jars. Another way is to 
put the fruit directly into jars instead of on dishes to cool; then boil 
the syrup and pour it over, and tie up as directed in the " General 
Suggestions " at the beginning of this section. Either method 
works well. 

Hardening Fruit. — Those fruits like strawberries, tomatoes, peach- 
es, apples, etc., which are liable in cooking to become too soft, can be 
allowed to stand a few hours with sugar on them, or pour on hot 
syrup; this hardens them by extracting the juice. There are some 
fruits like citrons, quinces, pineapples, etc., which harden if i3ut into 
strong syrup at first; to avoid this they can be cooked first in water 
or weak syrup until tender, and then the balance of the sugar added. 

Canned Fruit can be used in making preserves, and then less 
sugar is needed. ' Adding a few slices of lemon or orange will 
improve the flavor. 

Keeping Preserves. — Preserves keep better in glass than in earth- 
enware vessels, but glass should be wrai3i)ed in paper to keep the 
light from bleaching the fruit; keep in a cool, dark, dry place. 



506 



PRESERVES 



To Clarify and Prepare Syrup. — A good syrup can be made with 2 
pints granulated or loaf sugar, and 2 cups water; put them in a 
porcelain kettle, and stir in the white of 1 egg beaten light but not 
dry; bring it slowly to a boil, stirring frequently, and then at once 
move to the back of the range, cover it, and let it simmer gently, not 
boil rapidly, for ^ hour; then take off the cover and remove the cake 
of thick white scum appearing on top. The syrup will be clear and 
ready for use. White of egg, being albumen, coagulates at 160°, 
and as it rises to the surface it acts like a strainer, carrying the 
impurities with it; hard boiling breaks it into small grains, and it 
does not strain well. Small fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, 
currants, etc., put into this syruj) will retain their form, color, and 
their fresh and natural taste. Juicy fruits require a rich syruj), like 
the above, but dry fruits which require long cooking need a thinner 
syrup made of equal parts of water and sugar. 

Graining. — A little acid added to syrup will prevent graining, as 
explained for candy making. 

TABLE SHOWING THE TIME TO BOIL AND THE AMOUNT OF SUGAR 
NEEDED FOR VARIOUS FRUITS IN MAKING PRESERVES.* 



NAME OF FRUIT. 

Apples, sour, quartered . 
Apples, sour, whole . . . . 

Blackberries 

Blueberries 

Cherries 

Crab=apples, whole . . . . 

Currants, ripe 

Grapes, wild 

Peaches, halved 

Peaches, whole 

Pears, small sour, whole 
Pears, Bartlett, halved. 

Pineapples, sliced 

Plums 

Quinces, quartered . . . . 

Raspberries 

Rhubarb, sliced 

Strawberries 

Tomatoes 

Whortleberries 



TIME TO BOIL IN 
MINUTES. 


SUGAR NEEDED FOR EACH 
QUART OF FRUIT. 


10 


G ounces 


30 


6 




i 


6 (moderately) 


6 




i 


5 


4 




" 


5 (moderately) 


6 




' 


25 


8 




( 


6 


8 




( 


10 


8 




( 


8 


8 




( 


15 


8 




< 


30 


8 




« 


20 


6 




< 


15 


6 




' 


10 (moderately) 


8 




( 


25 


10 




( 


6 (moderately) 


4 




< 


10 


10 




( 


8 (moderately) 


8 




* 


20 


. 8 




' 


5 


4 




* 



APPLE PRESERVES.— Choose firm, well^flavored apples, and 
proceed as directed for quinces. They can be improved by adding 

•For Cooking in High Altitudes see pages 16 and 358. 



PRESEKVES 507 

«i 
the juioe of 1 lemon to each 1-| lbs. of apples; or cut up and add a 
little quince. 

PRESERVED APRICOTS— Stone and pare 1 lb. of the finest 
apricots, put them into a preserving pan, and dust on some double 
refined sugar; have ready and add 1 cup of the juice of white 
currants, pressed out of raw berries; 1^ lbs. loaf sugar, putting in 
half of it first, and adding the balance at 2 different times during the 
cooking. Boil them over a slow fire, and when done put them ujd, 
putting 2 or 3 in a glass; be careful not to break them in the skim- 
ming. A little more boiling makes it jam. 

CRAB APPLE PRESERVES— The red Siberian crab is the 
best. Pick out those nearly perfect, leaving the stems on; put them 
in the preserving kettle with enough warm water to cover them, heat 
this to boiling slowly, and simmer until the skins break. Drain and 
skin them; then with a pen-knife extract the cores through the blos- 
som ends. Weigh them, allow 1^ lbs. sugar and a gill of water to 
every pound of fruit. Boil the water and sugar together until the 
scum ceases to rise, put in the fruit, cover the kettle, and simmer 
until the apples are a clear red and tender. Take out with a skim- 
mer, spread upon dishes to cool and harden; add to the syrup the 
juice of 1 lemon to 3 lbs. fruit, and boil until clear and rich. Fill 
jars f full with apples, pour in the syrup, and when cool, tie up. 

BARBERRY PRESERVES— Use 1 lb. sugar 
and 1 cup water to 1 lb. of barberries; prepare 
the syrup and put in the barberries, let them 
cook until the syrup is quite thick, which will 
probably be in about 2 hours. Then put them up 
in jars with enough syrup to keep them. The 
rest of the syrup can be strained, put in bottles, 
and corked tight, and it can be used to make a 
delightful and a refreshing drink. 

The Babbeeky is found in most parts of the world. Its 
fruit is cooling, astringent, and very acid. The juice, mixed 
with water, makes a refreshing fever drink. The bright red 
berries, alternating with parsley, are a very pretty garnish for white meats. 

BLACKBERRY PRESERVES.— Choose the best berries, pick 
them over, and allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. berries; let them stand for 1 
or 2 hours spread on dishes with the sugar sprinkled on; then put 
them on the stove in a porcelain kettle, adding all the juice which 
came from them, and heat slightly. Now take them out, putting 
them on the plates, and boil the syrup for 5 minutes rapidly; then 




BABBEBBIES. 



508 PRESEKVES 

put back the berries, and let them simmer {not boil)', if they show a 
tendency to break, take them from the stove at once. Cool them 
slightly, and put in jelly glasses. 

Currants and Dewberries are put wp the same way 

PRESERVED CHERRIES — Select short^stemmed red cherries, 
or Morelloes, as sweet cherries are not suitable for preserving. 
Stone them, and save every drop of the juice; allow 1 lb. sugar to 
each i3ound of fruit; first put in a layer of sugar, then a layer of 
fruit, and so on until all are put in; let them stand 2 or 3 hours, pour 
over the juice, and boil gently until the syrup begins to thicken; 
then put in jars. Adding 3 tablespoons of red currant juice to each 
lb. of fruit is an improvement. 

Currants may be put up the same way. White cm-rants make 
fine preserves. 

CITRON MELON. — Pare and cut the melons into small pieces 
about ^ inch square. Put in a porcelain kettle; cover with water 
and boil until tender, but not to break; then put them in a cloth 
strainer and hang up to drain over night. The next day weigh the 
melon, and with an equal weight of granulated sugar make enough 
syrup to cover the melon, then boil gently until the melon is clear. 
By this time the syrup will have become quite thick. Set away in 
the kettle to stand over night, or until it is cooled through. Allow 4 
lemons to every pound of the preserves. Squeeze and strain the 
lemon juice on to the preserves, and with the hand lift and gently 
mix all together, being careful not to break the cubes of melon. Put 
cold into glass jars; place a few cloves, from which the heads have 
been taken, on the toia of each jar; screw the cover on tightly, and 
put in a dark, cool place. It must be a month old before using. 
This is a delicious sweetmeat. Be sure that the lemons are not 
bitter. 

CITRON PRESERVES— These should be 
made as late in the season as possible, when the 
melons are ripest. After paring, cut into fancy 
shapes, but not too small. Cook till tender, in just 
water enough to cover, with a large spoonful of al- 
um added. Drain the pieces well, and then cook ^ 
hour in the preserving syrup, with the juice of sev- 
eral lemons added, omitting the rind, as it is apt to oitbon. 
impart a bitter taste. In a few weeks this citron may be taken from 
the syrup, drained, dipped in powdered sugar, and dried on plates in 
the sun, when it is very nice for cake, to add to its flavor and beauty. 




PKESEKVES 509 

If this is to be done on a large scale, however, the pieces of citron 
should be quite large for convenience. 

CRANBERRY PRESERVES— Allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound 
of berries; make a strong syrup by adding water, using only enough 
water to dissolve the sugar; put in the fruit boil until tender, and 
put into glasses. 

PRESERVED BLACK CURRANTS.— Pick over the currants 
and cook till all are broken. Add -^ as much sugar (measured) as 
you have fruit. Cook ^ hour longer and seal. This is excellent for 
sore throat. 

FIG PRESERVES..— Gather the fruit when fully ripe but not 
cracked open; place it in a perforated tin bucket or wire,, screen, and 
dip it for a moment in a deep kettle of lye, hot and moderately 
strong (some prefer to let them lay an hour in lime water, draining 
them afterwards). Allow 1 lb. of sugar to 1 lb. figs, make it into a 
syrup; drain the figs, put them in, and boil until well cooked; skim 
out the figs and boil down the syrup until there is just enough to 
cover the figs; put the figs back in the syrup, let all boil, put into 
glasses while hot, and seal. 

GREEN FIG PRESERVES.— Lay the figs in cold wafer for 24 
hours; then simmer them until tender; x^.ut them again in cold water, 
and let them remain 2 days, changing the water each day. Then if 
you do not find them soft, give them another simmer and put them 
again into cold water until the next day. Then take 1 lb. sugar to 1 
lb. fruit, and with f of it make a syrup and simmer the figs in it for 
10 minutes. In 2 days take the remaining ^ of the sugar and pour 
the syrup from the figs on it. Make a rich syrup, adding the peel of 
a lemon and a little raw ginger, and boil the figs in it; then mix all 
together and put into large jam-pots and tie them closely over. The 
figs may be cut in half if preferred, after they have simmered until 
soft. 

TOMATO FIGS — These, although made from tomatoes, will 
nearly approach true figs, and will keep as long as desired. Select 
good tomatoes, scald, skin them, and allow 1-| lbs. best brown sugar 
to each 4 lbs. tomatoes. Let them simmer gently in the sugar until 
they cook clear, and the sugar permeates them thoroughly (add no 
water), and then take them out and dry them, spread on dishes in 
the sun; while they are drying sprinkle a little syrup on them. Pack 
them in layers with sugar between, in boxes or jars. While drying 
do not let rain or dew fall on them. 



510 PRESEKVES 

GREEN GINGER PRESERVES.— Put the ginger for 2 weeks 
every night and morning into boiling water; then j)aie off the outside 
skin with a sharp knife. Boil it in water till quite soft, and slice it 
into thin slices. Prepare a syrup of 1 lb. sugar to | pint water, clar- 
ify it, put in the ginger, and boil till it is clear. Let it cool before 
putting it in jars. 

MOCK GINGER PRESERVES.— Boil small tender carrots, 
scrape them until free of all spots, and cut out the heart or middle 
portion. Steep them for several days in frequently changed water, 
until the flavor of the carrot has been completely destroyed. Allow 
1 quart of water, 2 lbs. sugar, 2 oz. whole ginger, and the thin peel 
(yellow only) of 1 lemon to each jjound of prepared carrots. Boil ^ 
hour daily until the carrots are transparent. When done, add 
enough red pepper to make the preserves as hot as desired. 

GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES.— Allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound 
of gooseberries; top and tail them, and put the berries and sugar into 
a deep jar in alternate layers; pour on enough red currant juice to 
dissolve the sugar and add the same weight of sugar; cook it next 
day in the preserving pan, and put it in glasses. 

GRAPE PRESERVES — Pick from the stem, 
wash, drain, and weigh, and allow an equal weight of 
sugar; then press the skin from the pulp with the 
thumb and finger, and cook the pulp gently; when 
the seeds loosen pass it through a sieve to remove 
them. Then put the skins into the juice, cover, and 
simmer gently until tender; add the sugar, keep it 
hot, loithout boiling, 15 minutes, and can. 

Grapes of all varieties are mostly natives of tropical and 
6emi=tropical regions. Some varieties are dried and sold as rai- 
sins and currants. Fresh, ripe grapes, contain much sugar, 
sometimes nearly 20$^ and the acid is chiefly tartaric, part of 
which is combined with potash. All grapes are nutritive and sultana gkape. 
wJiolesome, but they are subject to fermentations, and when eat- 
en immoderately sometimes bring on colic. In moderation they may be safely 
eaten even by invalids, and are refrigerant, diuretic and laxative. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES.— Top, tail and wash the 
gooseberries in cold water, and drain; then pour on boiling water and 
let stand a few minutes to scald; this will soften them and extract 
part of their acid; when tender, take them out with a skimmer and 
slip them into cold water, leave a few minutes and take out with the 
skimmer, and slide carefully into the syrup; have the syrup made 
with 3 cups water and 1^ lbs. sugar for each lb. of gooseberries; let 




PRESEKVES 



511 



them simmer slowly in the syrup until quite clear — about 20 min- 
utes; if they seem likely to break take them out sooner with the 
skimmer, and let the syrup boil a little longer; put them in the jars, 
and when cold pour on the syrup, and tie up. 

GREENGAGE PRESERVES — Prick the plums with a fine 
needle to prevent their breaking, put them into a preserving pan 
with only enough water to cover them, and set them over a gentle 
fire until the water simmers; then take them out and set them on a 
sieve to drain. Add to the water in which the plums were boiled 1 
lb. sugar to 1 lb. plums; boil it quickly, skimming it as the scum 
rises, until the syrujp thickens on the spoon; then put in the plums, 
let them boil until the sugar bubbles, and pour the whole into a ba- 
sin; let it stand until the next day. Drain the syrup from the fruit, 
boil it up quickly, and pour it over the plums. Repeat this 4 days, 
which cooks the fruit without injuring the shape; then boil it in the 
syrup for 5 or 6 minutes, put into jars, and pour the syrup over. 
The kernels must be blanched and boiled with the fruit. 

Damsons can be put up the same way. 

Gkeengages are a variety of plum, although not the largest in size; for deli- 
cacy and richness of flavor they are unsurpassed, and are generally esteemed as 
one of the finest varieties. The name is derived from the Gage family who intro- 
duced them into England. 

HUCKLEBERRY PRESERVES.— Use f lb. of sugar and the 
juice of half a lemon to each lb. of huckleberries; put half the sugar 
on the berries, and let stand a few hours or over night; then drain off 
the juice, add 1 cup water, the lemon juice, and the balance of the 
sugar; set it on the stove till 
the sugar dissolves, boil quick- 
ly, and skim; then put in the 
berries and let it simmer 
merely until they are tender 
— about I hour; then take 
them out, put in jars and 
when cold, pour on the syrup 
and tie up. 

Bilberries can be preserved 
the same way. 

The Bilberry is found in the 
northern parts of the world, and it 
belongs to the same species as the 
whortleberry. Its composition and 
pro]»erties are about the same, and 
it is very wholesome. 






.\ 41/ 



^ 





512 PEESERVES 

PRESERVED LEMONS.— Pare off the thin yellow skin care- 
fully, cut a small hole in the end, scoop out the pulp carefully with a 
silver spoon, rub each one with salt and drop it into clear cold M^ater 
as fast as finished, which will prevent its turning dark; let them lie 
in it 5 or 6 days, and then boil them in fresh salt and water 15 min- 
utes. Have ready made a thin syrup of 1 quart of water to 1 lb. 
sugar; drain, and boil them in this for 5 minutes, and repeat once a 
day for 4 or 5 days; then j)ut them in jars with the syrup and let 
them stand 6 or 8 weeks, as that will make them clear and plump; 
then take them out of the syrup. Make a fresh syrup of double 
refined sugar, with only enough water to moisten it; boil and skim 
it, put in the lemons, and let them simmer slowly until they are clear. 
Put them in small jars, covered as previously directed, and tie them 
up tight. 

MULBERRY PRESERVES— Put about 1 lb. of mulberries into 
a preserving pan with ^ cup water to prevent burning; simmer slowly 
over a slow fire until all the mulberries are soft; strain through a 
fine sieve, and add 5 lbs. of sugar to each 4 cups of juice. Put the 
sugar into the preserving pan, pour the strained juice on it, boil up, 
and skim it well. Then add 4 lbs. of ripe mulberries, and let them 
stand in the syrup until warm; then boil 
them slowly for about ^ hour, and turn them 
out carefully into a china bowl until the next 
day; then repeat the boiling ^ hour, or until 
the syrup is thick and will jelly when cold. 
Put into jelly glasses, set away to cool, and 
then tie up. Care must be taken not to break 
the mulberries when boiling. 

The Mulbebey is a tree of which there are many 
varieties. The black is cultivated for its fruit, and 
^he white for its leaves on which silkworms feed. 
The black is a native of Persia. Some varieties 

attain a height of only 15 feet, and others grow to 45 mulbebby. 

or 50 feet. The fruit is wholesome, cooling and rather 
laxative, but when eaten to any large extent it is apt to disorder the stomach and 
bowels. 

MUSKMELONS. — Choose ripe muskraelons, remove the seeds, 
peel, cut in pieces, XDut into a stone jar, and cover with scalding 
vinegar; let them stand until the next day, pour off the vinegar, heat 
it, and pour on them again; repeat this every day for 4 days. To 
each 5 lbs. of fruit allow 1 quart of vinegar, 3 lbs. sugar, and spices 
to suit; put all together, and simmer until the melons are tender; 
then set aside, and the second day pour off the syrup, and boil it 
down so there will be just enough to cover the melons. Then put 
in glasses. 




PRESERVES 513 

PRESERVED ORANGES — Select very ripe oranges, cut a small 
hole in the stalk end, and scoop out the pulp with a silver spoon 
very clean, and be careful not to break the rind; save all the juice by 
holding the orange over a bowl while scooping it out, and drop each 
one into a basin of cold water as fast as done; then drain them, put 
into a porcelain kettle, and pour on enough boiling water to cover 
them, having dissolved in it 1 teaspoon of alum to each ^ gallon of 
water; let them simmer gently in this solution until almost trans- 
parent and clear; now drain them, put into cold water, change it 2 or 
8 times, and let them stand until next morning, then drain again, 
pour on boiling water to cover, and again gently simmer for 1^ hours, 
and drain them; now allow 1 lb. of sugar and 1 cup water for each 
pound of the rinds, and make the sugar and water into a syrup; then 
put in the oranges, together with the juice which was saved, and 
gently simmer until they are clear and tender; then take them out, 
lay them on dishes to dry, and set away 2 days, and the syrup also. 
Now take 4 fresh oranges for each 1 which is being preserved, cut 
them in two, extract the juice, and allow 1^ lbs. sugar to each pint of 
it. Put this sugar and juice on the fire, and as soon as the sugar 
dissolves, boil it quickly to a thick jelly, which should be in about 20 
minutes; test it and it will be done if a teaspoon of it hardens at once 
when set in a saucer in a cool place. Now put this jelly into the or- 
anges, filling them full, and let it harden until the next morning. 
Then put them in glasses with the open end down, and pour on the 
first syrup, and tie them up. They will be found a delicious pre- 
serve. 

Lemons and Limes can be put up in the same manner. 
Preserved Oranges No. 2 — Select good oranges and boil them in 
soft water until you can run a broom straw through the skin. Allow 
f lb. sugar for 1 lb. oranges, make it into a syrup, and clarify it; then 
drain the oranges from the water, pour on the hot syrup, and let them 
stand in it over night. Boil them in the syrup the next day until it 
is thick and clear; then put them in jars, pour the strained syrup on 
them, and tie up. 

ORANGE AND RHUBARB PRESERVES — Take 6 oranges and 
carefully peel off the thin yellow rind; remove the white rind and 
the seeds, and slice the pulp into a preserving pan, adding the yellow 
rind cut very fine. Add 1 quart of rhubarb cut fine, and 1 lb. to 1^ 
lbs. sugar, and bcil the whole down and put up like any other pre- 
serves. 

PEACH PRESERVES — Select fine ripe peaches; pare. Halve 
and stone them; allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, and put a layer of 

83 



514 PRESEKVES 

sugar in the kettle, then a layer of peaches, and so on alternately un- 
til all is used. Cover and let it stand until the next morning; then 
bring to a boil quickly, and let it simmer merely, until the fruit is 
clear and tender. Blanch and add 4 peach kernels for each pound of 
fruit, for flavor, when it begins to boil. Then lift out the fruit 
carefully, and put it into glasses; boil the syrup until thick (about 15 
minutes) and pour it over. 

Apricots and Nectarines can be put up in the same way. 

Pears can be put up in like manner, but they should be pared; 
leave the stems on, and if small put them up whole. Add no peach 
kernels for pears, apricots or nectarines. 

PRESERVING PEACHES WITHOUT COOKING.— Brush the 

down from the peaches, and put them into a deep dish ; pour enough 
boiling water on to cover them, and lay a thickly^folded towel over 
the dish, and let it stand until the water is nearly cold; then take out 
the peaches one by one and rub off the skins with a coarse towel. 
Then put a layer of sugar in a jar, then a layer of peaches, cover 
them thickly with sugar, and so on alternately, having sugar on top. 
Close and seal them down at once, and keep in a cool, dry place. 
Removing the skins by the use of hot water as above directed, is 
much easier than paring them. 

PRESERVED PEARS— If large, they can be pared and quar- 
tered; if small, they can be pared and put up whole. Allow equal 
weights of fruit and sugar; make the sugar into a syrup, using 1 cup 
of water to the pound; when clear, put in the fruit and heat it 
through; then take it out and cool it; then put it back and cook un- 
til soft, and then put in jars. A clove stuck in the end of each pear 
before cooking imparts a pleasant flavor. Some people stew a few 
slices of lemon peel in the syrup for flavoring. 

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE— Pare off the rough outside care- 
fully, that nothing be lost, and slice the fruit; put it in a preserving 
pan, add 1 teacup of water to each pound of fruit, and boil gently 
until it is tender and clear; then take it out with a skimmer, add 1 
lb. of sugar to 1 lb. of fruit, stir until it is dissolved, then put in the 
pineapple and let it boil gently until it is transparent throughout: 
then take out the fruit, cool it, and put it into glass jars. Let the 
syrup simmer gently until it is thick and rich, and when nearly cool 
pour it over the fruit, and the next day seal up the jars. Pineapple 
is often jput directly into the syrup without first boiling in water, but 
it is then tougher and not so good. 

See " Pineapple Jam " for a way to utilize the parings. 




PEESERVES 515 

PRESERVED PLUMS.— (1) "Weigh them and allow 1 lb. sugar 
to 1 lb. plums; put a layer of sugar in a stone jar, then a layer of 
plums, and so on alternately until all are in, finishing with sugar; 
now put them in a moderate oven, and leave 
them until the oven cools, or put them in at 
tea=time, and let them stay all night; then boil 
and clarify the juice, after straining it from the 
plums; put the fruit in glasses, pour on the hot 
syrup, and tie up. (2) Another way is to allow 
I lb. sugar to each pound of fruit. Divide the 
plums, take out the stones, and put them on a 
dish with sugar strewed over; the next day put 
them into a preserving pan and let them sim- 
mer gently over a nice fire for about 30 minutes; plums. 
then boil them quickly, removing the scum as it rises, and keep 
them constantly stirred, or the fruit will stick to the bottom of the 
pan. Crack the stones, and add the kernels to the preserves when it 
boils. Then put up like other preserves. 

The Plum appears to have been introduced into Europe from the East where 
it has been cultivated from very ancient times. It is now extensively cultivated and 
is a very useful fruit. When perfectly ripe the best plums are wholesome, but 
some varieties are too astringent. They lose much of their bad qualities in cook- 
ing, but they should be eaten in moderation. They make good preserves. 

PUMPKIN PRESERVES — Choose a good sweet pumpkin, pare, 
take out the seeds and cut into slices. Allow 1 lb. sugar and 1 gill 
of lemon juice for 1 lb. of pumpkin. Put the pumpkin in a deep 
dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between, and pour the lemon 
juice on top; let stand 2 or 3 days, and then boil all together, adding 
1 cup water for each 3 lbs. sugar used, until the pumpkin is tender; 
then let it stand for 1 week, when drain ofp the syrup, boil until it is 
quite thick, skim, and pour it hot over the pumpkin. A little bruised 
ginger and lemon rind thinly pared may be boiled in the syrup to 
flavor the pumpkin. 

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES.— Select the largest berries, and 
use equal weights of strawberries and sugar; lay the fruit in deep 
dishes, and sprinkle ^ the sugar over them in fine powder; shake the 
dish so that the sugar may touch the under part of the fruit. The 
next day make a syrup with the remainder of the sugar and the 
juice drawn from the strawberries and boil until it jellies; then put 
in the strawberries carefully, and let them simmer nearly an hour. 
Put them carefully in glass jars and fill up with the syrup; there will 
be more than enough to fill the jars, but after standing over night 



516 



PRESERVES 




the jars will hold more. Any syrup remaining can be used in mak- 
ing pudding sauces, etc. Putting strawberries up whole thus, is 
much the best way. 

Raspberries can be put up the same way 

QUINCE PRESERVES.— 

Take fine yellow quinces, and pare, 
quarter and core them (save cores 
and skins) ; add just water enough 
to cover the quinces, set them on 
the stove and simmer until soft, 
but not until they begin to break; 
carefully remove the fruit, spread 
it on dishes to cool, and into the 
water in which the quinces were 
boiled put the cores, seeds and 
parings; stew it 1 hour, covered 
closely, and strain it through a 
jelly bag; add 1 lb. sugar for each 
pint of this liquor, boil it up, 
skim, and put in the quinces quince, 

and boil gently 25 minutes; let it stand in a deep dish, closely cov 
ered, 24 hours; then drain ofp the syrup, bring it to a boil, put in 
.the fruit carefully, and boil | hour; then take it out as dry as pos- 
sible, spread it on dishes to cool, and boil the syrup down thick; fill 
jars I full of fruit, and pour on the syrup. The preserves should be 
of a fine red color. An equal amount of sweet apples can be cooked 
with the quinces (and without additional sugar), and the difference 
will hardly be noticed. 

GREEN TOMATO PRESERVES.— Select small, even^sized toma- 
toes for preserving. To each 3 lbs, tomatoes take 2 fresh lemons; 
pare off the yellow rind thin, so as to leave the white part, and 
squeeze out the juice. First boil the tomatoes in water sufficient to 
cover them, until they begin to get tender; add the lemon and a few 
peach leaves and powdered ginger tied in muslin bags; boil together 
until the tomatoes are tender, take them out carefully, strain the 
liquor, and add to it 1^ lbs, sugar for each pound tomatoes; put the 
tomatoes back into the syrup, and boil until they appear to be done. 
In the course of a week pour the syrup from the tomatoes, heat it 
scalding hot, and pour it again on the tomatoes; then tie up, 

RIPE TOMATO PRESERVES — For these use for 8 lbs. tomatoes, 
7 lbs. sugar, and the juice of 4 lemons. Peel the tomatoes, and let 



PRESERVES 517 

lemon juice, sugar and tomatoes stand together over night; drain ofp 
the syrup and boil it, skimming it well; then put in the tomatoes and 
allow them to boil gently and steadily for 20 minutes. Take them out 
with the skimmer and spread them on dishes to cool. Boil down the 
syrup until it thickens, put the tomatoes in jars and pour the 
syrup over them hot. 

PRESERVED WATERMELON AND CANTELOPE RINDS.— It 

is a good plan to keep these rinds in a strong solution of salt and water 
until they are needed for preserving; the salt can then be removed 
by boiling them in fresh water. Now soak them in alum water (have 
it weak) for a little while, and then again boil in clear water until the 
alum taste disappears. Allow for every pound of rind 2 lbs. sugar, 
and make it into a rich syrup, clarifying it; then boil the rind for 1 
hour in this syrup. Adding a little acid, like vinegar, will keep the 
syrup from graining. Flavor with lemon if desired. 




CANNING FRUITS, VEGETA- 
BLES, ETC. 

HEN it is properly done, fruits ana vegetables canned at 
home are both better and cheaper than those bought at 
stores. Select sound, fresh fruit, and use good sugar. 
The first record of canning appears in a paper sub- 
mittea to the English Society of Arts in 1807, by Mr. Saddington; 
but M. Appert who first put it into use on a large scale (about 1809) 
has generally received the credit for its discovery. Canning in its 
present form dates from a patent granted in 1823 to Pierre Angii- 
bert. 

The Principles Involved. — The principles underlying the process of canning 
have been, quite generally misunderstood, and successful fruit canning has been by 
many people supposed to depend upon the observance of certain methods which 
•would result in the expulsion of the air, and the directions have been to boil fruit 
to expel the air, to heat the jars very hot, to stir the contents that all air bubbles 
may escape, to fill to overflowing, and seal immediately. It is impossible by any 
heating process to expel all the air. However full jars may be filled with hot 
fruit, when cold there is more or less air at the top. The correct reason for heat- 
ing fruit is not to expel the air, but to destroy minute, living germs (bacteria*) 
that to a greater or less extent are always floating in the air, and which alight 
upon fruit and all other substances. These germs especially abound in the atmos- 
phere in the season when fruits ripen. Under favorable conditions they multiply 
with marvelous rapidity, and in a remarkably short space of time entirely change 
the composition of fruit and its juices. This disorganization of the fruit takes 
place to a greater or less extent according to the readiness with which the germs 
find access thereto, and the favorableness of the surrounding conditions. 

Experiment has demonstrated, beyond a reasonable doubt, that most of the 
bacteria which produce fermentation (for there are many varieties of them) can- 
not exist in a temperature above 140°, and nearly all die at 130° to 135°. The 
spores, however, (corresponding to seeds) are more tenacious of life than the de- 
veloped bacteria, but these are all killed at the temperature of boiling water if 
submitted to its action for some time, for they do not all die instantly, even at that 
temperature. It should also be said that the bacteria flourish best in a neutral or 
alkaline solution, while an acid solution is unfavorable to them, and the acid 
nature of many of the fruit juices hastens their destruction. Furthermore it is 
difficult to arrange so that the central parts of a can shall receive the same amount 
of heat as the surface, particularly in the case of solidly packed goods, like corn 
and beans, so that they need to be cooked for some time. 



* Bacteria and microbes are terms applied to minute organisms which abound 
everywhere, and which play an important part in the economy of nature, causing 
both fermentation and putrefaction. They are rather more like plants than ani- 
mals, and so small are they tlrat the most powerful microscope makes them ap- 
pear as little more than dots and rods. There are many varieties, but in shape 
they take principally 3 different forms which may be compared to a lead pencil 
(those having this form are called bacilli), a ball (called cocus), and a corkscrew 
(called spirilum). 

618 



CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 519 

These being the principles involved, canning resolves itself simply into kill- 
ing all the bacteria and spores, and preventing any new ones from obtaining access 
to the fruit, and the simplest and most effectual method of doing this is the best. 

Fruit has often been cooked more than was necessary, but the housewife need 
not be troubled by having her fruit "go all to pieces" and get "mussy" when 
being canned, if she handles it intelligently. Enclosing air in the can when it is 
sealed will do no harm, provided such air has been heated hot enough to kill all 
germs floating in it. If the cans are not sealed perfectly air tight, cold, unsteril- 
ized air will in time enter the can, carrying in living germs. These are so infini- 
tesimally small that they will pass through the most minute opening and they 
will then begin to propagate, and cause fermentation. 

The Breaking of Jars. — If fruit is put into jars and the jars put 
in a boiler, surrounded with water and boiled, the jars are liable to 
crack if set directly on the metal bottom. Breaking will be prevent- 
ed by putting several thicknesses of wet cloth under the jars; or use 
strips of wood, or hay or straw. Wrapping the jars in hay or straw 
simply keeps them from touching each other and allows the water to 
circulate around them freely. 

A fruit jar for canning hot fruit need never be heated by rolling 
in hot water or otherwise; a cloth wrung from cold water and com- 
pletely swathing the jar will insure against cracking, if the jar is 
perfect, and if it is not it will be likely to crack in any event. The 
cloth should be soft, and touch the jar in every part, and cover the 
glass well at the top. 

Utensils. — See what we say about " The Utensils Used " in the 
introduction to our previous chapter on " Jams, Jellies, etc.," for 
the action of the acids in fruits on tin, copper, etc. 

Peaches. — If peaches are dipped in scalding hot water for a 
minute (some use hot lye) and then into cold water, the skin will 
readily slip off. If the stones are cracked and the kernels slightly 
cooked in the syrup which is poured over them it will be an improve- 
ment. The tastelessness of canned peaches sold in the stores often 
results from not doing this. 

Pare Fruit with a silver or aluminum knife and use forks of the 
same metals — steel will discolor it. Drop it in cold water as soon 
as pared, which will prevent its turning dark. 

To Soften Hard Fruits, like apples, pares, hard peaches or quinces, 
steam them; or cpok in water till tender. 

Using Sugar. — Although fruits can be canned without sugar, many 
fruits are improved by the use of more or less of it; it improves 
those fruits when canned which require it when fresh. Fruits which 
are to be used for flavoring ice creams and water ices, are best 
canned without sugar. If sugar is sprinkled on small fruits, and left 
on 1 or 2 hours, they retain their shape better. Any siirplus juice 
from strawberries or other small fruits, can be made into jelly. 

Strain syrup which is not clear through flue flannel. 



520 CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

Sealing. — When fruit is otherwise properly put up it often fails 
to keep because of improper sealing; covers should be screwed on 
reasonably tight at first, and tightened often till quite cold; the glass 
shrinks by cooling, and the covers should be tightened up on it as 
it shrinks. Be sure the rubbers used are close fitting and firm. 

If corks and wax are used in sealing, soak the corks in hot 
water: dry both cork and the edge of the bottle with a hot cloth 
before applying the wax, to insure its close adherence to the glass. 

Parafine paper tied or pasted over heated fruit will keep it sweet 
for quite a time in summer, and for weeks in cold weather. It is also 
recommended for covering jellies and jams, as it is impervious to air 
and is water-proof. 

Keeping. — All goods canned in glass (and that is the safest and 
most reliable thing to use) should be kept in the dark, or the cans 
wrapped in paper, as the light will bleach and injure many fruits, 
especially tomatoes and strawberries. Canned fruit and vegetables 
should be kept in a cool, dry and dark place. 

The Flavor of Canned Fruit is improved if it is opened some time 
before it is needed for use, and allowed to aerate. 

Vegetables Intended for Canning should be as fresh as possible, as 
wilted vegetables will not can well. 

The Food Value of Canned Goods. — A careful analysis of the canned good« 
sold in the market has shown that they should be regarded mainly in the light of 
an expensive luxury. This is owing principally to the large amount of water they 
contain. In such articles as corn and string beans a test has shown that the con- 
tents of the can consists of 65% to 25% of water, so that if one bought 100 
lbs. of these goods, he would buy 65 lbs. to 95 lbs. of water, and only 5 lbs. to 35 
lbs. of dry food material. For this reason 10 or 25 cents invested in flour, corn 
meal or meat will get as much actual /ood material for the body as $1 or $2 will 
if invested in canned goods. Poor people, and those of moderate means should 
understand these things. When, however, the goods are canned at home the food 
is, of course, bought uncanned, and as cheaply as it could be obtained in any form. 
If properly put up canned goods are wholesome. 

A WoKD or Caution. — Sometimes goods which are put up in tin cans, and 
which are all right when opened, are allowed to stand afterwards exposed to the 
air, and then the acid they contain will at once attack the lead in the tin, produc- 
ing poisonous compounds of lead. For this reason the contents of tin cans should 
be emptied out at once on being opened. So important is this that it should be 
understood by every one. 

Salicylic Acid. — This has been often used in canning fruits, and many agents 
have passed through the country selling recipes or preparations guaranteed to pre- 
serve fruit, the active ingredient of which was salicylic or some form of sulfurous 
acid. These should never be used. They may injure the health of the consumer, 
they impair the taste of the fruit, and their use is wholly unnecessary, as fruit is 
easily canned successfully without them. Don't buy or use such preparations. 

CANNING BERRIES, ETC.— To can small fruit, or those which 
require little cooking, such as berries, peaches, etc., allow for every 
quart jar 1 teacup of sugar, more or less according to the acidity of 
the fruit. Dissolve the sugar in a very little water, put the fruit in 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC 521 

it and heat to the boiling point; swathe each jar with a wet cloth, 
fill it with fruit, and seal it at once while hot. 

CANNING APPLES — Select choice apples, pare, quarter, core, 
and let simmer merely, until tender; then drain them out, put into 
hot syrup, boil 2 or 3 minutes, and fill hot into jars. The juice and 
rind of 1 lemon to 4 lbs. apples imparts a pleasant flavor. Using 1 lb. 
of quinces or 1 good-sized pineapple to 4 lbs. apples also makes a 
pleasant combination. 

CANNING CURRANTS.— Use | lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; let the 
fruit stand 2 or 3 hours covered with the sugar in the preserving 
kettle; then bring slowly to the boiling point, fill into jars and seal. 

Raspberries are nice put up with currant juice; allow 1 cup cur- 
rant juice and 1 cup sugar to each quart of raspberries, add the juice 
and sugar to the berries, bring to the boil and put in jars. Bed 
rasjpberries and red curranis are also very nice canned together half 
and half. 

Dewberries and Elderberries can be put up like currants, but allow 
i lb. sugar for 1 lb. fruit. 

The Dewbekky belongs to the same species as the 
raspberry and blackberry Its composition is about the 
same, and it can be used like them for pies, pudding or 
jam. It is a very wholesome fruit. 

CANNING DAMSONS.— Allow | lb. sugar 
to 1 lb. fruit; place alternate layers of sugar 
and plums in a preserving kettle, first pricking 
the plums to prevent their breaking; let it stand 
1 or 2 hours at the back of the stove, then 
heat gradually just to the boiling point, fill 

. , . -I 1 ^'HE DEWBEBBY. 

into jars and seal. 

Greengages or Plums of any kind, can be canned the same way, 
but allow f lb. of sugar to 1 lb. fruit. They can be allowed to stand 
in alternate layers of plums and sugar over night if desired; the next 
day bring to a boil and can. 

GOOSEBERRIES These when ripe can be put up like currants, 

allowing ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. gooseberries. Green gooseberries are 
best put up by the " Cold Process" (which see). 

CANNING PEARS.— Steam them until tender in a steamer; 
then put them into jars and fill with boiling syrup, holding in solu- 
tion for each jar ^ teaspoon of tartaric acid dissolved in a little water. 
This acid gives a piquant flavor to the otherwise sweet or insipid 
fruit, and is harmless. 




522 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

RHUBARB. — The simplest and best method for this is by the 
"Cold Process " (which see). 

CANNING QUINCES. — Pare, quarter, core, and let them simmer 
merely, in water until tender; then drain them from the water, put 
them into the hot syrup (allow ^ lb. sugar and 1 cup water to 1 lb. 
quinces), let simmer 10 minutes (at 170°) and put into jars. The 
core, seeds and parings can be made into jelly. 

CANNING GRAPES — Grapes may be canned whole without the 
usual process of scalding. Heat the jars very hot by steaming them 
over water brought gradually from tepid to boiling heat, or by 
placing them in the oven on several thicknesses of paper, and increas- 
ing the heat gradually. Wring a towel from hot water and swathe 
the cans; then fill them with the cold grapes, cover with boiling 
water, seal, and let stand 10 minutes; then take off the covers, pour 
off the water, and cover with boiling syrup sweetened to taste, and 
seal. The skins will not break, and the fruit will have a very differ- 
ent flavor from seeded grapes. 

Blackberries, Huckleberries, Juaeberries and Rasp- 
berries may be canned as directed for grapes. 

The Junebekby. — This fruit, as its name indicates, 
appears in June. It has a mild sub=acid flavor, approach- 
ing that of the huckleberry. It may be served with sugar 
and cream when eaten for dessert. 

STRAWBERRIES.— To preserve the color 
and flavor of strawberries requires care. They 
should go directly from the field or garden to the 
preserving kettle— even washing them injures their keeping qualities. 
Use ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit. Place alternate layers of sugar and 
berries in a preserving kettle and let stand 1 hour; then heat slowly 
just to the boiling point; fill into jars and seal hot. 

CANNING APRICOTS.— Pack them whole into the jars, pack- 
ing them full, and as closely as possible without mashing or pressing 
the fruit; fill the jars with syrup up to the shoulder, put on the 
cover loosely, and set them in a wash=boiler so that they do not 
touch the metal bottom, as directed in the introduction to this chap- 
ter, and fill water around them up to their necks; put on the cover, 
bring it to a boil, and keep it boiling 12 to 15 minutes, so that the 
fruit in the jar may be heated clear through; then remove from the 
stove, fill 1 jar at a time with hot syrup (have some surplus syrup 
ready, and bring it to a boil at the same time as the fruit), screw on 




JUNEBEBBY. 




CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 523 

the cover, set it back in the water, and let all cool together. Prac- 
tically this is a very good method, as it kills all germs, without 
overcooking the fruit. 

Cherries; put up like apricots; boil 10 minutes. 

Nectarines; put up like apricots; boil 12 
minutes. 

Plums; put up same way; boil 10 minutes. 

Strawberries; put up same way; boil 8 min- 
utes. , 

Peaches can be put up the same way, but they 
should be pared and halved; if 2 or 3 kernels are 
put in the center of each I'ar they will flavor all the 

p ., . . 1 1 • 1 T 1 1 1 NEOTAKINE. 

rruit m it; and this should be done, as they lack 
flavor without the kernels. 

Pineapples can be put up in the same way, but they should be first 
pared and sliced, using a silver knife. Boil ^ hour. 

CANNED CORN. — Select young tender ears, cut the corn care- 
fully from the cob with a very sharp knife, and scrape the cob with 
the back of a knife to secure the milk. Dissolve 1 oz. of druggist's 
pure tartaric acid in a large teacup of warm water, and use ^ of this 
for every 4 quarts of corn; to be exact, measure by tablespoons. 
Stir the required amount into the corn, add 2 teacups of hot water, 
and cook 15 minutes. Stir often and thoroughly while cooking; then 
can in the usual way. On opening for use, to each quart add a 
level teaspoon of soda (to neutralize the acid), cook 5 minutes 
and season to taste, being careful to add a little sugar. Should the 
corn turn yellow on adding the soda, add a very little more acid 
water (some may be kept corked); should there be a slight acid 
taste, put in a little more soda. If the acid is impure, or too much is 
used, crystals will form. 

Canned Corn No. 2. — Another method is to crowd corn cut from 
the cob into glass jars, seal moderately tight, set them into cold 
water, bring it to the boil, and then boil 3 hours; then loosen the cov- 
ers an instant, seal again, and cook 1 hour; then remove from the fire. 
Tighten the covers occasionally as the cans cool. Corn i3ut up this 
way keeps perfectly, but it is not as fresh as that put up with acid, 
and the process is more tedious. In serving this corn all that it 
needs is to get it thoroughly hot, and add a little milk or cream, 
butter and seasoning; further cooking toughens it. 

CANNED PEAS — Shell them, and pack closely in cans; add to 
each quart 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar dissolved in a little 




524 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

water; fill them full of water, put on the covers, and proceed as 
directed for apricots, but keep^ the water boiling 3 hours; fill hot 
water into the boiler, as that in it cooks away; when done, screw 
down the tops, and let them cool. 

ASPARAGUS. — Put it up as directed above 
for peas, but omit the sugar and salt, 

LIMA BEANS. — Treat as directed above for 
peas, but omit the sugar, 

STRING BEANS.— Either green or cream 
beans can be put up as directed above for peas. 
String them, cut into inch lengths, put into cans, 
add to each quart 1 teaspoon of salt, and continue 
as directed for peas. 

String Beans No. 2.— String the beans and re- aspaeagus. 

move the stem end. Boil them in water until 
about half tender, then to each 4 quarts of beans add ^ pint of salt; 
boil 10 minutes, put in cans, cover well with the liquor in which 
they were boiled and seal. To use, drain, cook in a little water, and 
season to taste with cream or butter. A very little white sugar 
added to the seasoning is an improvement. 

String Beans No. 3. — Another method is to boil the beans in 
slightly salted water until they are tender, but not until they 
break; then drain quickly and can, covering them with weak boil- 
ing vinegar, or vinegar and water. To use, drain them, soak in 
warm water 15 minutes, heat 5 minutes, and season with butter and 
a little milk, thickened slightly with corn^starch. 

CANNING CABBAGE — Slice cabbage when it comes from the 
pits in the spring, cook it in very little water, season with salt, and 
can boiling hot. 

CANNING CARROTS.— Boil carrots till tender, peel and slice, 
reheat them in a steamer and can, covering them with weak boiling 
vinegar, or vinegar and water. Use them as a garnish, or season 
with cream for a salad. 

CANNED BEETS — Chop beets while tender, season with sweet- 
ened vinegar, and can hot. They make delicious salad. 

PUMPKIN. — Scrape out the seeds after cutting, it up, and either 
stew or bake it until tender, without paring, as the sweetest part lies 
next the rind; when baked, remove the rind, mash with the potato 
masher, put it in jars and seal while hot. Add no seasoning until 
opened for use. 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 525 

CANNED SUCCOTASH.— Put lima beana in salted water, and 
cook nearly enough for table use; take green corn on the ^ cob, and 
boil until when a grain is cut no milk flows, then cut it from the cob, 
and mix with the lima beans, using 1 measure of beans to 2 measures 
of corn; cover them with boiling water, bring to a boil, and fill them 
into glass jars. String beans can be used instead of lima beans, but 
cut them into 1 inch lengths. To use this succotash, drain off the 
liquor and add butter, milk and flour the same as for fresh succotash. 

CANNED TOMATOES ( IT/ioZe).— Select good small ones, re- 
jecting all that are soft or spotted; put them whole into the cans 
without peeling, fill with cold water, and proceed as directed for 
peas, but omit the salt and sugar, and boil only -| hour. 

Canned Tomatoes No. 2. — Scald and skin them; bring them gradu- 
ally to a boil in the preserving kettle, and let them simmer merely -^- 
hour (at 170°); put into the cans while hot, and seal. 

Canned Tomatoes No. 3. — Select the tomatoes before they are ripe. 
As soon as they are gathered from the vines remove the skins, cut 
them in small pieces and drain; boil them 20 minutes, stirring often, 
and adding salt freely while boiling. Can in the usual way. One 
can determine by tasting just how much salt can be used. They are 
less likely to sour when salt is used. 

Canned Tomatoes are nice stewed and baked in alternate layers 
with boiled rice or boiled macaroni, seasoning the layers with butter, 
pepper and salt. 

CANNED TOMATOES WITH CORN — Boil the corn on the 
cob the same as for table use, and cut it off while hot; have tomatoes 
skinned and rubbed to a smooth pulp; put 2 parts tomatoes to 1 part 
corn, salt as for the table, bring to a hard boil, and can quickly. 

CANNED BEANS WITH ACID — Cook the beans until done; 
then add for each pint of beans 1 tablespoon of a solution made by 
dissolving 1^ oz. tartaric acid in 1 cup water; can at once while hot. 
To use, to each quart of beans add ^ teaspoon of soda to neutralize 
the acid, and let stand a little while before cooking. Then season 
and serve. If there is a slightly acid taste use a little more soda; if 
too much soda is used add a trifle more acid. 

Peas oan be put up the same way. 

FRUIT JUICES Select the best fruit, squeeze out the juice, 

strain it through fine muslin (4 thicknesses) or through flannel 
cloth, add sugar in the proportion of | lb. sugar to 1 quart of juice, 
and bring to a boil; use an earthen or porcelaindined kettle, remove 
all scum which rises, and put while hot into small bottles, and 
keep closely corked; or it can be kept ia Mason jars. 



626 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

When canning fruit the juice remaining can be bottled in the 
same manner. For pudding sauces, etc., these can be used in place 
of wines and intoxicating liquors, as we have elsewhere stated in 
speaking of intoxicating liquors; they can also be used for water ices 
and summer beverages. 

Fruit jui-ces can also be put up without the use of sugar; strain 
the juice, and fill it into the bottles to the bottom of the neck only; 
then cork securely, wire the corks down, and set the bottles into 
water up to the neck; let it boil ^ hour, then take from the stove, let 
them stand in the water till cold, and seal the corks. Juices put up 
this way can be used like fresh juices, but when exposed to the air 
they spoil quickly, so that all must be used at once when a bottle is 
opened. Small bottles are therefore best. 

CANNING WITHOUT SYRUP. 

Fruit can be put up much as directed for apricots, but without 
using any syrup. The fruit should not be very ripe when picked; 
fill wide=mouthed bottles as full as they will hold, cork and seal each 
one tightly, surround it with water and boil as there directed; then 
remove from the stove and let them cool standing in the water, tight- 
ening the covers occasionally. It will be found to nearly equal fresh 
fruit when opened, and can be used like it. Apricots, cherries, 
gooseberries, sliced pineapple, plums, and other fruit can be put up 
thus. 

CANNING BY THE COLD PROCESS. 

Many fruits may be canned by what is termed the " Cold Pro- 
cess." It is best to boil the water used for this purpose, to kill all 
germs in, it; then let it get cold before using it. 

Green Currants and Green Gooseberries 

To can them in this manner fill jars with the 
green fruit, shaking it well together ; j^ZZ with 
water which has been boiled and allowed to 
get perfectly cold; seal, wrap each jar in pa 
per, and set in a cool place. 

The Cukbant is supposed to be a native of North- 
ern Europe, and did not attract much attention till 
■within the last 1 jO years. It is not mentioned by the 
ancient Greek and Roman writers. The red, white and 
black, all belong to the same species as the goose- 
berry, and their composition is nearly the same. It is white cukeant. 
a wholesome and useful fruit. Its acid is principally 
citric and malic. 

Grapes (Cold Process).— Remove them from the large clusters in 
smaller clusters of 2 or 3, being very careful indeed that the stem of 




CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 527 

each grape is in no wise loosened from the fruit; fill the jars with 
these clusters, or with the single grapes if preferred, with the stems 
left entire or partly clipped; when full (do not shake, as the success 
depends upon the stem adhering to the fruit) immerse the jar in a 
pail of water which has been boiled and become cold; when the jar is 
quite full of water screw on the top while under water. 

Cherries (Cold Process) — The stems of cherries may be clipped 
and the fruit canned in the same manner as grapes. It is more diffi- 
cult to prepare cherries, as they loosen so easily from the stem. 

Canned Peaches (Cold Process).— Pare and halve the fruit, fill a jar 
with, it, pacJcing closehj, and fill the jar with water as for currants; 
cover and let stand 6 or 8 hours for the water to work its way into all 
openings; then fill in water to take the place of that which has 
worked in, and seal. Thus put up, all the freshness and flavor of the 
fruit is retained. Instead of the water cold syrup can be used, but 
the natural flavor is best retained without any sweetening. 

Canned Rhubarb (Cold Process).— Take fresh green stalks, peel and 
slice as if for pies; then take fruit jars and pack this in up to the 
necks, and then fill the jars with cold water; now seal up air tight 
and it will keep any number of months. To see if the jars are tight 
set them bottom up for a little while and see if any water escapes; if 
not, they are all right. To use it, pour off the water and use like 
fresh pieplant; but to sweeten it, not over ^ the sugar ordinarily used 
will be needed, as the water will extract some of the acid. The 
method is simple, and it will be equal to fresh pieplant when used. 

Strawberries Canned Cold. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. sugar; 
dissolve the sugar in the least possible quantity of water, put in the 
strawberries and let both boil up together once 
thoroughly; then put the fruit and syrup in deep 
earthen pie plates, and let stand in the sun 24 
hours covered with mosquito netting; or dry it in 
a cool oven; then can cold. Delicious. 

Currants, Raspberries, Huckleberries and other small 
fruit may be canned the same way. 

The Huoklebekey is native to the northern parts of 
the world. It has a spicy, rather sweetish taste and is 
very wholesome. It contains about Tir* water, 6.7^ sugar 
and 1.3^ free acid. It belongs to the same species as the bil- huoklkbkbby. 

berry and blueberry. 

CANNING MEAT. 

Do not leave meat designed for canning exposed to the air; as 
soon as it is thoroughly cold, after killing, prepare it by selecting 




528 CANNING FEUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

pieces free from blood. Remove all bone, gristle and inferior pieces, 
and cut it into suitable pieces for the table, having them rather thin 
than otherwise. On the bottom of a Mason's self=sealing can put a 
little salt, pepper, and a dash of pulverized, sifted saltpetre; then put 
in a layer of meat, and on that sprinkle more of the same seasoning, 
and so on alternately, filling the can to within an inch of the top, 
pressing the layers down firmly while packing that there may be no 
air spaces. On the top layer use the seasoning more freely. Fill 
the can with lard, heated sufficiently to run smoothly. Cover with a 
paper bag, and keep in a cool, dark place. It will keei3 from 
January to July. 

Canned Meat No. 2 — Take fresh beef and boil it until all the 
bones will come out; then take the meat out, remove the bones and 
cut in short lengths, returning it to the liquor; season to taste with 
salt, pepper, a little mace, cloves and chopped onions, if liked. Take 
the meat from the liquor with a wire dipper, fill it into the cans, 
pour on the boiling liquor, and seal tight. Keep in a dark, cool 
place. 

CANNED CORN BEEF — Before the brine sours or changes in 
the least, boil the meat till tender; then remove the bone, gristle, and 
white fiber, return to the boiling liquor, and when hot, can it, press- 
ing it compactly; cover it well with the boiling hot liquor and seal 
Keep the cans in paper bags in a cool cellar. Examine on the 
approach of warm weather, and if on shaking the cans any bubbles 
arise, open such cans and use the meat at once. 

Pickled Tongue is also very nice put up in this way. 

Mince and Sausage Meat must be put into cans while at boiling 
keat, if thus preserved. 

Pbesebvino Meats. — All the resources of science have been called into play to 
devise means to preserve meat so that the surplus of one region can be trans- 
ported unimpaired to supply the needs of another region less bountifully supplied. 
The 4 most important methods which have been devised are by drying, by cold, by 
heating and excluding the air, and by the use of antiseptics. They are all based 
on killing or preventing the development of the germs (bacteria) which cause 
putrefaction. Drying preserves meat and vegetables because the low forms of life, 
as well as the higher, cannot develop without a certain amount of moisture, but the 
flavor and other qualities of meat are not improved by drying. Freezing preserves 
the meat because cold checks the growth of all micro=crganisms. In canning, the 
usual method is to heat the article enough to kill all the germs, and then seal it up so 
tightly that no more can enter. Antiseptics, like salt, sugar, etc., act by preventing 
the development of the micro=organisms which cause decay. The action of salt is 
to draw the juices and many of the nutritive elements out of the meat, and whei-. 
they are once drawn out they can never be restored again, so that salted meat is 
never as nutritious as fresh meat. The salt also hardens the fiber of the meat and 
makes it less digestible. Salt has a whitening effect on the meat also, and to 



CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 529 

tjonnteract that, saltpetre is often added, bnt the latter tends to make the meat 
hard, dry and indigestible, and therefore a little cochineal is sometimes used for 
coloring instead. 

/v4 



PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, ETC. 

\ I / HE custom of pickling seems to have been practiced since 
A I / very early times, the ancient Greeks and Komans highly 
@J I ^ esteeming their pickles made from herbs, roots and vegeta- 
bles preserved by vinegar. 

All vegetables and fruit used for pickles should be sound, and 
not over^ripe. Fruits can be pickled as well as vegetables. 

The Vinegar. — Use only pure vinegar in making pickles, catsups 
and sauces. Cider vinegar is usually considered about the best for 
this purpose. As vinegar is weakened by boiling, it should be merely 
brought to the scalding point and then x)oured on the pickles; if not 
scalded but put on raw, however, it will not keep well. Have the 
vinegar strong or the pickles will seem "insipid," If the strength 
of the vinegar is lost, replace it with some which is strong, and boil- 
ing hot when poured on. Adding a little horseradish will help to 
keep up the life of the vinegar, but use it sparingly; 1 or 2 clusters 
of green grapes serve the same purpose. To heat vinegar, a good way 
is to put it in a stone jar in a sauce=pan, with hot water around it, and 
as soon as it reaches the boiling point remove from the fire, as 
boiling reduces both its strengh and flavor. 

Vinegar can be kept from molding by putting into each jar some 
horseradish, mustard seed or nasturtiums, but use only a little. 

Using Alum and Parboiiing.^If articles to be pickled are parboiled or 
scalded they will absorb the vinegar more readily, but they will not 
be so crisp. Cucumbers and gherkins are made crisp and green by 
dissolving a small lumj) of alum in the vinegar the first time it is 
scalded, but it is injurious to the health if too much is used. 

Coloring Pickles. — A green color can easily be obtained, if desired, 
by soaking cabbage or vine leaves or the leaves of parsley or spinach 
in the vinegar, and the color thus obtained is harmless. Or to have 
cucumbers green put them into cold vinegar and heat them slowly 
over a moderate fire until they become green, 

A Caution. — • Bright green pickles have been popular, merely because of their 
looks. To gratify this taste pickles have been boiled in copper kettles with vine- 
gar and a little alum. The acetic acid of the vinegar acts on the copper and forms 
acetate of copper, which is commonly and well known as verdigris. This pene- 
trates the pickles and colors them green, but it should be understood that this 
acetate of copper (verdigris) is really a most active poison, and that pickles thus 
prepared are poisonous and unhealthy. 

630 



SOUR PICKLES 531 

Spices. — Use spices judiciously so that all combine into a pleasant 
flavor without having one flavor predominate over all the others, and 
do not flavor so strongly as to entirely disguise the original flavor of 
the article pickled. 

Brine. — The rule for the brine used for x>ickles is "strong 
enough to float an egg." The proportion is about 1 quart of water 
to 1 cup salt. 

Tlie Kettle, etc.— Use porcelain4ined or granite kettles for putting 
up pickles. The acid in vinegar will act on the lead in tinned ves- 
sels, and produce the poisonous acetate of lead, and in brass or cop- 
per vessels it produces the poisonous acetate of copper {verdigris). 
As the mild acids, however, do not affect aluminum, utensils made 
of that metal are excellent to use for this purpose. 

Use wooden spoons instead of metal spoons or forks. If, how- 
ever, any metal spoons or forks are used have them either of alumi- 
num or silver. 

Keeping Piclcles. — Pickles wiH become soft and spoil if exposed to 
the air, so that they should always be kept covered with vinegar; 
there should be 2 or 3 inches of vinegar over them; keep the 
jar tightly closed. If pickles show signs at any time of becoming 
moldy or soft, pour off the vinegar, scald it, skim, add to each gal- 
lon of vinegar 1 handful of sugar, and pour it back on again, boil- 
ing hot. The sugar will form fresh vinegar and so strengthen the 
old. If pickles are put in jars and sealed while hot, they keep bet- 
ter than in any other way. 

Pickles should be kept in a dry, cool place, but they will be 
spoiled if they freeze. They are best kept in stone or glass; never 
use glazed jars, as the salt and vinegar will dissolve out the little lead 
which is used in glazing, and form the poisonous acetate of lead. No 
vessel which has held grease should be used for keeping pickles. 

Pickles are an agreeable addition to our food, but they should be 
eaten sparingly, as they are not easily digested. 



SOUR PICKLES. 

PICKLED BEETS — (1) Wash them, and be careful not to 
prick the outside skin or they will lose their beautiful color; put 
them into boiling water, simmer gently until -| done (about 1^ 
hours), take out and cool; then peel, and cut into slices ^ inch 
thick. Take vinegar enough to cover, add 2 oz. allspice, and 2 oz. 
whole pepper to each gallon, and boil 5 minutes; when cold, pour it 




\i.rii iiuKi . 



532 • SOUR PICKLES 

on the beets, and cover closely. They can be used in a week. (2) 
Another way is to take 4 or 5 medium=sized beets, boil them soft, 
put in cold water, rub oflp the skins, wipe dry, cut in pieces, and chop 
finely in the chopping bowl; add, while chopping, an even teaspoon 
of salt and sugar, a saltspoon each of mustard and pepper; pack in- 
to a salad dish or bowl; cover with cold vinegar, and let it stand until 
the next day before serving. 

Carrots may be pickled in the same manner. Few fieople know 
how good carrots are when pickled. 

ARTICHOKES — Take a strong brine 
and boil the artichokes in it 2 or 3 minutes; 
then drain them on a sieve, and put in jars 
when cold. Boil some nutmeg, mace and 
ginger in enough vinegar to cover; pour 
it on hot and seal the jars. 

BEANS — String the beans and boil 
until tender, putting a little salt in the 
water; then drain in a colander, and 
when cold put in jars; add 1 tablespoon 
of horseradish, sprinkle with cayenne pep- 
per lightly, and cover with good cider vinegar. 

PICKLED CABBAGE.— Slice the cabbage fine, and cover with 
boiling water; drain off the water when cold. Season with red and 
black pepper in equal parts, salt, cinnamon and cloves, and grated 
horseradish. Cover with strong vinegar. 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER— Break the heads into small pieces, 
and boil in salt and water 10 or 15 minutes; then drain carefully, and 
place in jars when cold; tie white mustard, cloves, allspice and pep- 
per in a bag, put it in vinegar and scald; take the vinegar from the 
stove, take out the bag, and to each quart add ^ cup sugar, and 1 
tablesi3oon of mustard; pour it over the cauliflower, and cover tightly. 

CELERY PICKLES. — Take ^ gallon of chopped celery, the same 
of chopiDed white cabbage, 4 oz. white mustard seed, ^ oz. ginger 
root, 2 tablespoons salt, ^ oz. turmeric, ^ cup sugar, | gallon cider 
vinegar; let all simmer gently until celery and cabbage are tender; 
then put in jars. 

CHERRY PICKLES — Take large, ripe cherries, leave the stems 
on, and put them whole into cans, filling them only § full; take 
good cider vinegar, fill the cans with it cold, and seal without heat- 
ing. 



SOUR PICKLES ^ 533 

PICKLED CORN — Select good corn and boil it on the cob; 
When done let it cool, and cut it from the cob; then pack it in a 
jar in alternate layers of salt and corn, having salt at the bottom and 
on top; then spread on a cloth, lay on a board, and weight it down. 
For use, soak it till fresh, in water, and cook or heat it. Many like 
it better this way than when canned. 

String Beans and Lima Beans can also be packed in salt; after being 
in the salt 2 days they can be used at any time, and can be cooked 
like green vegetables, but while boiling, change the water 1 or 2 
times. They will be like fresh vegetables. 

CUCUMBER PICKLES.— Cut cucumbers from the vine instead 
of twisting or pulling them off, as that injures them. Fill a jar with 
cucumbers, and pour boiling water over them, with a little salt; let 
stand 6 hours or over night, and then put them into cold vinegar. 
•To 1 gallon of vinegar add 1 cup salt and 1 tablespoon pulverized 
alum, and scald the pickles in this mixture; pour it ofp, and pour on 
new vinegar, with spice, red peppers, cinnamon, root ginger and 
cloves. 

Cucumber Pickles No. 2. — Take | bushel cucumbers, and soak 24 
to 36 hours in brine strong enough to float an egg; then take them 
out, wash, and cover them with vinegar and water (half and half) 
adding alum the size of a large walnut; let soak 2 clays. Then take 
out, put in jars, and put 1 green pepper in each large jar. Scald 2 
gallons vinegar with 3 lbs. brown sugar, 1 oz. each stick cinnamon, 
whole cloves, and whole allspice, and pour it over the pickles. They 
can be used next day, and are fine. 

Cucumber Pickles No. 3. — Pick when 2 or 3 inches long, no larger^ 
Wash, dry, and put a layer in the bottom of a glass fruit jar; mix 1 
teaspoon each of whole cloves, whole pepper-corns, allspice, and 2 
teaspoons of stick cinnamon broken fine; sprinkle the cucumbers in 
the jar with this mixture, add more cucumbers, then more spice, and 
so alternately until the jar is full. This amount of spice is for 1 
quart can. Fill the can with strong vinegar, cold, screw on the 
cover, and in about 4 or 5 weeks they will be ready for use. By this 
method one can pick cucumbers each day, using ac many cans as 
they will fill; it is sure and easy, as there is no trouble salting, boil- 
ing, etc. 

Cucumber Pickles No. 4. — Take 2 j)arts soft water, and 1 part 
New Orleans molasses or sorghum; put it in a' jar or cask, and set it 
in the sun with a thin cloth and board covering it; the board should 
be removed during the day, but the cloth left on to keep out insects. 
This must be prepared long enough to get sour (say 4 weeks) before 



534 



SOUK PICKLES 



putting in cucumbers. Set it in a cool place as soon as you begin to 
put in cucumbers; pick and put some in each day, and every time 
you put in cucumbers add a little molasses to keep up the strength 
of the vinegar. Lastly add 5 or 6 lbs. of brown sugar, a few horse- 
radish roots and a small piece of alum. Some use the same vinegar 
every year; strain it, and add molasses as the cucumbers are put in. 
It saves the trouble of making fresh every year. 

SALTING CUCUMBERS — Wash them, and put first a layer of 
salt, then a layer of cucumbers, and so on alternately until the jar is 
full, having salt on top and keeping all down with a weight. They 
will keep this way 2 or 3 years. For use, freshen them by soaking 
in water for 2 or 3 days, changing the water daily. Scald vinegar, to 
which is added spices, and a little sugar if desired, and pour this hot 
over the cucumbers. A cloth can be laid over salted cucumbers, 
under the weight, and the scum that arises may be removed by 
taking off the cloth and rinsing it. Horseradish tops or cabbage 
leaves placed under the cloth will prevent molding. 

LARGE CUCUMBER PICKLES.— Very nice pickles may be 
made with the large cucumbers that would be considered unfit for 
use by some people. Peel them, and take out the seeds and soft 
part; cut them the long way of the cucumber, cover them with cold 
vinegar, and let them stand one day and night; drain them well and 
put on fresh vinegar, with 2 lbs. sugar; put 1 oz. cassia buds in a 
quart of vinegar and add to the pickles. Boil for 20 minutes then 
put them away in jars, well covered. 

PICKLED GHERKINS — Put them in 
strong brine until they are yellow; then remove 
them, and pour on hot, spiced vinegar, and keep 
them in a warm place until they turn green; take 
them out, and cover with good vinegar, boiling 
hot and spiced to taste. 

Ghebkins are young cucumbers, gathered before they 
are mature, and they are used for nothing but pickling; as 
pickles, however, they are generally liked. They should 
not be gathered too young, or their flavor will not be suf- 
ficiently developed. 

PICKLED EGGS— Boil eggs hard, take off 
the shells, and put them in jars; take vinegar 
enough to cover, season it well with cloves, all- 
spice and whole peppers, and a little ginger tied in a muslin bag; 
bring it to a boil, and pour it hot on the eggs; close the jars tightly 
when cold. They will be ready for use in a fortnight. 




SOUR PICKLES I 535 

SPICED CUCUMBER PICKLES— Soak ' 2 quarts of salted 
pickles in cold water until quite fresh — it may take 2 days; be sure 
and change the water 2 or 3 times a day; when fresh, wipe dry and 
pack closely in jars. Take 1 quart vinegar, 1|- cups brown sugar, 1 
tablespoon cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon cloves tied in a bag; bring to a 
boil, and turn it over the pickles while hot. 

JERSEY PICKLES— Take one peck of ripe tomatoes, 3 pep- 
pers, 8 tablespoons salt, 1 heaping teaspoon of cloves, 3 heaping tea- 
spoons cinnamon, 4 cups sugar, 2 cups vinegar; boil from 1^ to 2 
hours. 

PICKLED LEMONS— (1) Select 12 small lemons with thick 
skins; cut into them nearly to the center, but not quite enough so 
that they fall apart; fill the openings with salt, and pack them in an 
earthen dish on end; set away, and in about 4 days there will be 
brine enough to partly cover them; turn them over, repeating each 
day for 4 days, so that all parts may soak in the brine; then drain 
them out and put in glass jars. Add enough cider vinegar to cover 
the fruit, a little crushed ginger root and a Jamaica pepper if de- 
sired, or other spice; bring it slowly to a boil, skim, and pour it on 
the fruit when cold. (2) Another way is to wash 2 doz. lemons, cut 
across or through the ends of each about 2 inches and pack with the 
cut end down in a stone jar; add 4 quarts vinegar, ^ lb. mustard=^seed, 
f lb. salt, ^ oz. each of cayenne pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, and 1 
small onion; cover the jar, and set it in a kettle of boiling water and 
boil all day. They should be tender enough to pierce with a fork 
easily. 

PICKLED LIMES.— (1) Take 12 limes, make incisions into the 
rinds into which rub salt, put them on end in an earthen dish, and 
set in a warm place 4 or 5 days, or until soft, turning them over 1 or 
2 times, and put them in glass jars, pouring in the brine. Take 
enough vinegar to cover them, add -J oz. whole pepper, and 2 oz. each 
of bruised ginger and mustard=seed, bring to a 
boil, and pour on them while hot. When cold, seal 
the jars. (2) Pick limes when full grown, sound 
and fresh, and put them at once into brine about 
as strong as sea=water; in 2 or 3 days it will become 
bitter; pour it off, cover with fresh brine, and re- 
peat about 3 times, or until the bitterness is ex- 
tracted. Cover with fresh brine, and they will 
keep indefinitely and can be shipped, being always the hme. 

saleable barreled thus. 




536 - SOUR PICKLES "^ 

The lime is a native of India and China. In the West Indies it is grown for 
hedges. The fruit is similar to the lemon, but smaller. It has a thin, smooth 
rind and a very acid juice which some prefer to that of the lemon. 

PICKLED MARTYNI AS.— Choose the small, tender martynias; 
wash and brush them carefully; soak them in a strong brine for 5 
days, then soak them in fresh water until the salty taste is nearly 
gone; next wipe them dry; put them in a jar, and pour over them 
well spiced hot vinegar, flavored with onions if liked. 

MANGO PICKLES — Pick green cantelope melons when hall' 
grown (about the size of a pint bowl); cut out 1 lobe, carefully 
scrape out all the seeds, return the lobe and tie it in place; put 15 of 
the melons in a brine strong enough to float an egg, and leave 6 
weeks, keeping them well under; then take out, soak in fresh water 
24 hours, then remove, wipe dry, and fill with the following stuffing: 
Take ^ lb. scraped horseradish, ^ lb. race ginger, scalded, scraped 
and chopped fine, 2 nutmegs, ^ oz. mace, 1 oz. whole black peppers; 
1 small box good mustard, 1 oz. turmeric, 12 large onions minced very 
fine. Pound the mace, nutmegs and black pepper together, and mix 
all the ingredients together with enough salad oil to make it into a 
paste. Stuff each melon perfectly full; return and tie the lobe in 
place with thread, and put each mango when stuffed into a jar large 
enough to hold them all. Put enough strong cider vinegar to fill the 
jar into a preserving kettle; crack and add ^ oz. each of cloves, 
ground ginger, mace and allspice, let boil, and x)our hot over the 
mangoes. Keep the jar closely covered. Made in the fall the pick- 
les will be fit to eat Christmas, but the following Christmas they will 
be matchless, their perfection increasing with age. This pickle is 
the most elegant made, and is suitable for any dinner that can be 
served. 

MIXED PICKLES.— Take 2 heads of cauliflower, 2 heads cab- 
bage, 50 small cucumbers, 8 small carrots, 2 quarts string beans, 12 
sticks of celery, 6 red peppers (without the seeds) and 3 green pep- 
pers; chop these vegetables separately, and let them soak over night 
in salt and water; in the morning wash and drain them. Take 2 
grated nutmegs, 3 teaspoons each of mace and cinnamon, tie in a 
muslin bag, and put into vinegar enough to cover the vegetables; 
scald it, pour it over the vegetables hot, put in jars and cover closely. 

GREEN PEPPER MANGOES.— Take green peppers which are 
sound and firm and add as many red ones for appearance; cut off the 
top, extract the seeds, put into a strong brine, and let soak 21 hours; 
then drain them, wipe, and fill with a stuffing made of ground cloves, 



SOUK PICKLES 



537 




OAPSIOUM. 



mustard seed, green tomatoes chopped, cabbage chopped, and salt, 
mixed all together; sew on the toj)s, and cover them with strong, hot 
vinegar containing 1 cup brown sugar; repeat for 4 mornings, and 
seal up. 

The Capsicum family (to which peppers belong) is na- 
tive to Asia and America. Cayenne pepper is made from the 
dried pods and seeds of various species of capsicum. As a 
condiment it is wholesome and aids digestion. Althongh 
less used than black pepper it is more wholesome. Chillies 
is a Mexican name signifying pods. 

PEACH MANGOES — Take large, fine, free- 
stone peaches; with a silver knife cut a hole in the 
side just large enough to remove the stone, take it 
out, put back the piece, tie it in, and put the 
peaches into a strong brine; leave 86 hours, drain 
out, and let them lie 20 minutes in cold water; 
wipe carefully, and fill the inside with grated horseradish to which is 
added a little celery seed and crushed ginger root, and moistened 
with vinegar. Replace the piece forming the opening, sew or tie it 
in place with thread; stand them closely in glass jars, and cover them 
with boiling hot vinegar, containing 1 cup sugar to each quart of 
vinegar; tie up when cold. They can be used in 8 days. 

PICKLED MUSHROOMS.— Clean carefully, and boil a few min- 
utes in salt and water; drain, and dry them between linen cloths; 
put into jars, and cover with vinegar, spiced to taste. 

MUSTARD PICKLES — Chop fine, equal quantities of cauli- 
flower, white onions, celery, green j)eppers and green tomatoes; pour 
on a scalding hot brine, let stand over night, and drain. Take f gal- 
lon cider vinegar, 1 cui3 sugar, and 2 tablespoons of butter; bring to 
a boil, and add 1 cup flour, 6 tablesjDoons ground mustard, \ oz. tur- 
meric powder wet in cold vinegar; pour it all, scalding hot, over the 
pickles. 

PICKLED NASTURTIUMS.— Leave about 1 inch of stem on 
when they are picked; let them soak in strong 
brine for 3 days; drain, and soak them in cold 
water 1 day; draili, put in jars, and pour on 
boiling vinegar to cover; they need no spices. 
They can be used in a month, and will serve in- 
stead of capers if desired. 

The Nastuktium is a native of the east. It belongs 
to the same family as the cresses. The leaves are some- 
times added to salads. The flowers can be steeped in vin- »,.c,a.rTT,-r,TT-..a 
egar, thus forming nasturtium vinegar. 




538 SOUE PICKLES 

PICKLED ONIONS.— (1) Take nice onions, peel them, put in- 
to boiling water, and let them stew until quite clear; then remove 
them quickly, put them between cloths to dry, and then put them in 
glass jars. Take good vinegar, put in ginger and whole peppers, 
bring to a boil, and when cold pour over the onions, and tie up 
closely. (2) Select button onions, cover with scalding hot brine, 
and leave 36 hours; drain, put in jars, and cover with vinegar, jwured 
on hot, and spiced as desired. 

PICKLED OYSTERS — Take 1 quart oyster liquor, 7 table, 
spoons good vinegar, 1 teaspoon each of allspice and white pepper, 1 
tablespoon of salt and 2 blades of mace; into this put 1 quart of oys- 
ters, and simmer 5 minutes; take them out, boil the liquor, skim it, 
and pour it over the oysters; can them while hot if you wish to keep 
them some time. 

PICKLED PARSLEY — Prepare a brine and thoroughly wash 
selected parsley in it; drain, shake dry, i)ut into glass jars, cover with 
cold vinegar, containing 1 tablespoon of chopped horseradish to the 
quart, and tie up. It can be used for garnishing. 

PICKLED PEPPERS — Take large green ones, and extract the 
seeds through a slit cut in the side, but 
leaving them whole; then put them in a 
strong brine for 2 days, changing it once; 
then put them in cold water for 1 day; 
drain, and pour on boiling hot, a solution 
of -g vinegar and ^ water; when cold, drain 
them, put into jars, and cover with strong 
cider vinegar, boiling hot. Tie uj) when 
cold. They are sometimes filled, before 
being put into the jars, with a stuffing 
made of cabbage head, chopped fine, sea- 
soned with salt and white mustard^seed mixed in well; then sew up, 
put in jars, and cover with cold spiced vinegar. 

PICCALILLI — Slice one peck of green tomatoes, add 1 cup salt, 
cover with water and let stand 24 hours; then drain through a sieve, 
add 4 green peppers and 8 onions and chop fine; cover with vinegar 
and scald; drain ofp, add 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon each of cloves and 
allspcie, and 2 ounces of white mustard seed, and cover with cold 
vinegar. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES.-Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes 
and let stand over night with a little salt sprinkled between them; h 




SOUR PICKLES 539 

the morning put them into weak vinegar and scald ; remove the toma- 
toes and when cold put in jars. Take strong cider vinegar to cover, 
add 1 cup sugar, 4 green peppers, mustard and spice to taste, bring 
it to a boil, and pour over the tomatoes. 

RIPE TOMATO PICKLES.— Use the small yellow plum toma- 
toes; prick them with a coarse needle, pack in jars, and cover with 
hot cider vinegar, spiced or not as preferred. Cover close and keep 
in a cool place. 

PICKLED TURNIPS.— Wash them, but do not break the skin 
or the juice will escape; boil them, and when done, pare, cut in slices 
^ inch thick, and pour on spiced vinegar boiling hot. They are best 
eaten when new. 

PICKLED WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS— Gather them when 
young enough to be pierced readily with a pin; put them in strong 
brine, and leave them 7 days, changing it every other day; then take 
them out, wipe dry, and pierce them with a large needle in a number 
of places; cover them for 8 hours, or over night, with cold water; 
then drain, and put in jars. Take enough cider vinegar to cover, and 
to each gallon allow 12 blades mace, 1 cup sugar, 36 black pex)per= 
corns, 36 cloves, and 1 tablespoon allspice; boil 5 minutes and pour 
hot on the nuts; repeat twice, 3 days apart, and tie up. 

ORNAMENTAL PICKLE — Take red beets, cook until tender, 
then peel and cut into dice, put in jars and cover with vinegar spiced 
to taste. Boil eggs 25 mintues, then drop into cold water; when cold, 
shell and put in with the pickles. 

FRENCH PICKLES.— Take 1 peck of green tomatoes, 1 med- 
ium^sized cabbage, 6 large onions, 6 large peppers; chop all very fine, 
but let the tomatoes drain through a colander before adding the rest. 
Add 1 cup white mustard-seed, 2 lbs. brown sugar, 1 gallon strong 
vinegar, 2 tablespoons cinnamon, 1 tablespoon each of allspice, cloves 
and black pepper and ^ cup salt; cook ^ hour and put into a jar. 

RUSSIA PICKLES — Take 2 gallons cabbage coarsely chopped, 
12 onions, 4 quarts green tomatoes chopped together, 6 green pep- 
pers, 1 oz. pepper berry, 1 oz. celery seed, ^ lb. white mustard-seed, 
1^ lbs. sugar, ^ gill salt, 4 quarts vinegar; boil all together until the 
cabbage and tomatoes are tender; 'then add ^ oz. turmeric. Can 
while hot. 

CHILI SAUCE. — Take 18 large tomatoes (not too ripe), 1 green 
pepper, 3 onions; chop fine and add 2 tablespoons of salt, ^ cup 



540 SWEET PICKLES 

sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 teaspoon each of cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon 
and allspice; boil 2 hours and put in cans. 

CHOW CHOW — Take 2 large heads of cauliflower, 2 quarts 
green pejjpers, 8 quarts green cucumbers, 3 quarts green tomatoes, 2 
quarts small onions; slice about ^ inch thick, and sprinkle with salt 
in alternate layers of tomatoes, onions and cucumbers; boil the cauli- 
flowers about 5 minutes; let them stand over night, then strain all 
carefully and free from water. Then place in jars and make a sea- 
soning as follows: Take 1 lb. mustard, ^ lb. mustard=seed, | lb. whole 
allspice, ^ lb. whole black pepper, 2 cups brine, 1 gallon vinegar, 1 
tablespoon curry powder; boil strongly 15 minutes, and pour over 
the vegetables. If too thick, add vinegar. Mix the mustard with 
vinegar, and tie the spices all together in a muslin bag; they should 
all boil with the vinegar. 

Chow Chow No. 2 — Take equal amounts of green tomatoes and 
cabbage, ^ the amount of onions, or less if preferred, and 1 or 2 
green peppers; chop all together fine; then season with plenty of salt, 
a red pepper cut fine after removing the seeds, black pepper and a 
little white mustard-seed. Mix the spices well through the mass, 
pack in jars or bottles, and pour on cold vinegar. Keep it cool. It 
will be ready for use in a few days, will keep several weeks, and can 
be made thus without cooking. 



SWEET PICKLES. 

These are made from any of the fruits suitable for preserving, 
and also from some of the vegetables. The strength of the syrup 
used varies from 1 to 4 lbs. sugar to the quart of vinegar, as vinegar 
varies in strength and some people like it sweeter than others, but it 
is better to have the syrup rich. The best sugar to use is the best 
light brown or coffee " C " sugar; some use maple sugar. 

The spices generally used are cinnamon and cloves, although 
allspice, mace and ginger are sometimes added, and can be used by 
any who desire them. The spices should be tied in a muslin bag be- 
fore being boiled in the syrup, or they will discolor such fruits as 
apples, pears, etc. 

Apples, melon rinds, cucumbers and pears should be steamed 
until tender enough to pierce with a broom straw or fork before 
jDouring the hot syrup over them, as it then penetrates them more 
readily. Smooth skinned fruits, like plums, etc., should be pricked 
with a needle before being cooked in the syrup. Peaches if very ripe 



SWEET PICKLES 541 

do not need steaming, but otherwise they do. They are sometimes 
merely rubbed well with a cloth; some people wash them first with a 
weak lye, and some cooks jpeel them. 

The method of making sweet pickJes is to prepare the syrup, bring it 
to a boil, put in the jpickles, and boil until tender; then x)ut into jars 
and put away when cold. Another way is to preioare the syrup and 
pour it boiling hot on the iDickles; let stand until next day, drain ofp 
the syrup, boil it, pour on hot again, and repeat this for 4 or 5 days; 
then seal hot. Either j)lan works well. 

A Hint. — Many people do not know that sweet pickles can be 
made from preserves of almost any kind. All that is needed is to 
take the syrup, add vinegar and any spices desired, boil it up, and 
pour it again on the fruit. 

PICKLED APPLES — Peel and core them, and steam until 
tender; prejpare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar to 1 
quart of vinegar, add spices (tied in a bag) 
bring to a boil, put in the apples, let simmer 
quietly 2 minutes, then put in jars and seal. 

CRAB APPLES — Select good apples, take 
out the blossom end, steam until a fork will 
readily pierce them; prepare a rich syrup of 3^ 
lbs. sugar to 1 pint vinegar, add spices, and fin- obab apple. 

ish like sweet apples. 

PICKLED BEETS. — Boil them until tender, in a porcelaindined 
kettle, and when cold slice them crossways, as the appearance is bet- 
ter than if cut lengthways; put in jars and pour on a hot rich syrup 
of vinegar, sugar, and spices to taste (put the spices in a bag). 

PICKLED BLACKBERRIES — Prepare a syrup of 2 pints vine- 
gar, 4 lbs. sugar, and | oz. each of cinnamon and cloves; bring it to a 
boil, put in 10 lbs. berries, simmer for ^ hour, and put into jars. 

Blueberries, Raspberries and Strawberries can be put up the same 
way. 

PICKLED RED CABBAGE.— Cut fine 8 heads of red cabbage, 
pack it in a crock in layers, sprinkling salt between each layer, and 
let stand over night. Then put 6 lbs. sugar in f gallon of vinegar, 
add 2 oz. each of allspice, pepper, cinnamon and cloves, and 2 table- 
spoons of celery seeds (tied in a bag); boil it and pour hot on the 
cabbage. 

PICKLED CANTELOPE.- Select melons which are neither soft. 
yellow, nor yet very green; pare, remove the seetls and soft inside, 




542 SWEET PICKLES 

slice, and stick a clove with the blossom eiid taken ofp into each 
piece. Prepare a syrup of 3|- lbs. sugar to 2 quarts vinegar, and 
when it boils put in the melons and simmer until they are soft and 
transparent; then put into glass jars and pour on the syrup hot; leave 
until the next day and they will have settled a little, when fill 
again with the cold syrup left over, and cover closely. 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER — Cut the cauliflower into any 
shaped pieces desired, put them into strong brine, and leave 24 
hours; then take out, boil the brine, and pour it on the pickles scald- 
ing hot; let stand until next day, and drain them out. Prepare a 
spiced vinegar, boiling any spices desired in it; let it get cold, and 
pour it cold on the jDickles. 

PICKLED CHERRIES.— Stone and put 

into a jar 5 lbs. good ripe cherries, adding a few 
pits to flavor; take -| oz. each of mace, cloves 
and cinnamon, 2 lbs. sugar, and 2 pints good ci- 
der vinegar; put all together, bring to a boil, 
and pour over the fruit hot. 

CURRANTS.— Put 6 heaping cups of sug- 
ar into 1 quart vinegar; add 7 lbs. currants, 
scald them, take them out and put in jars; boil 
the syrup a few minutes, and pour it hot over 
the fruit. Use only ^ as much vinegar if they are desired sweeter. 

CUCUMBER PICKLES — Take ripe cucumbers, quarter them, 
remove the seeds, and soak in strong brine (keeping them well un- 
der) for 10 days; take out, soak 1 day in clear cold water, and then 
over night in weak alum water, and drain them out; take 1 quart of 
vinegar, 6 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons each of cloves, mace and cinna- 
mon (tied in a bag), bring to a boil, put in the cucumbers, and sim- 
mer until tender. 

PICKLED GRAPES — Take fresh, sound, ripe grapes, and pack 
them in jars; prepare sweetened and spiced vinegar, let it get cold, 
and pour over the grapes, covering them fully. 

PICKLED FIGS. — Make a hot pickle of sweetened cider vinegar; 
take ripe figs, peel them, put them in the pickle, and boil gently un- 
til tender. 

PICKLED PLUMS— Gather the plums with the stalks, prick 
them with a needle, and put them with layers of cloves and cinna- 
mon into glass jars. For every 4 lbs. plums boil up 2 lbs. sugar and 




SWEET PICKLES 543 

1 quart of vinegar, and pour it liot over the plums. Next day pour 
off the vinegar, boil it up again, and pour it over the fruit again; 
repeat this twice, then tie up. It improves by keeping. 

PICKLED PEACHES— If hard, steam them until tender; if soft, 
wipe them only; then pack them in jars. Take 1 quart of sugar and 
1 tablespoon of cloves and broken stick cinnamon (tied in a bag) to 
each quart of vinegar; boil it 5 minutes and pour hot over the fruit; 
the next day turn it off, boil again, and pour hot on the peaches 
again; repeat once, seal up and i^ut away. 

Pears and Quinces can be put up the same way, but the latter can 
be pared, cored and quartered before steaming, and the x^arings and 
cores used for making jelly. 

PICKLED PINEAPPLE— This can be pared, sliced, and boiled 
gently until tender; then put in jars and finished like peaches. 

PICKLED RAISINS. — Prepare a syrup of 1 cup sugar to 1 pint 
vinegar; put in 2 lbs. raisins, leaving the stems on, and cook gently 
30 minutes; then put them into jars. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES— Slice 1 peck 
green tomatoes and 6 large onions (or 1 quart of 
small ones); sprinkle on 1 cup salt, and let stand 
over night; in the morning drain; then boil them 5 
minutes in 2 pints vinegar and 4 pints water, and 
again drain through a colander. Then take 1 gallon 
vinegar, and 2 lbs. sugar, 2 oz. white mustard=seed, 2 
tablespoons each of cinnamon, ginger and cloves, 
and 6 green peppers, chopped, or ^ teaspoon cayenne j-^maxu. 

pepper instead; boil all gently 15 minutes, and jjour over the chop- 
ped tomatoes and onions. They will keep a year or more. If de- 
sired, the onions can be omitted, and the tomatoes put up alone in 
the same way. 

Tomato Pickles No. 2. — Take 1 peck sliced green tomatoes, and 
let them stand in strong brine all night; then drain, boil until ten- 
der, drain again and put in jars. Prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar, ^ 
oz. allspice, and 1 oz. each cinnamon and cloves to 1 quart vinegar; 
boil, and pour hot over the tomatoes. 

HUSK TOMATO PICKLES.— For 7 lbs. husk tomatoes use 4 lbs. 
sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 2 teaspoons each of cloves, cinnamon and 
mace; prick the tomatoes instead of peeling, jiut them in a ptn-celain 
kettle with the sugar in alternate layers, heat slowly to boiling, add 
the vinegar and spices, and boil 5 minutes; take the fruit out with a 




544 SPICED FRUIT 

perforated skimmer, and spread it on dishes to cool; when cool, pack 
it in glass jars, boil the syrup thick, and pour it boiling hot on the 
fruit. Examine them occasionally the first month, and if any signs 
of fermenting appear, set the jars uncovered in a kettle of water 
(with thick cloth under them) and heat until the contents are 
scalded. These are very nice. 

WATERMELON RIND.— Soak it in vinegar over night; then 
boil it in water until tender, and drain. Prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. 
sugar and 1 oz. each cinnamon and cloves (tied in a bag) to 1 quart 
vinegar, or to 1 pint vinegar if wanted very sweet; bring it to a boil, 
put in the rind, boil 5 minutes and put in jars. 

Citroo can be put up in the same way. 



SPICED FRUIT. 

Some people confound spiced fruit and sweet pickles, but they 
are not the same. Sweet pickles are really a pickle, but spiced fruit 
is a spiced preserve, usually boiled down thick. 

SPICED FRUIT.— Sprinkle 1| lbs. sugar over 3^ lbs. fruit and 
let it stand over night; then take the juice, add 1 cup vinegar, and 
cinnamon, mace and cloves to taste, and boil 15 minutes, then put 
the fruit in and boil 10 minutes and put in jars. 

SPICED APPLES.— Take 2 cups vinegar, 2 lbs. of sugar, | oz. 
cinnamon and ^ oz. of cloves; boil all together, and while boiling add 
4 lbs. of apples which are pared, quartered and cored; let them boil 
about 20 minutes, or until tender; then take them out and put in a 
jar; boil the syrup down until thick and pour it over the apples. 

SPICED BLACKBERRIES Take 1 

cup of vinegar, 2 cups of sugar, and 1 ta- 
blespoon each of allspice, cloves and cin- 
namon; add 2^ lbs. blackberries, bring to a 
boil, skim out the blackberries, and boil 
the balance for 1 hour; put back the ber- 
ries and boil 15 minutes; then put in jars 
and tightly cover. 

The Blackbekby is found in northern climates 
and well repays cultivation. The root is astrin- blaokbebby. 

gent and is used to check diarrhea. The fruit is 

wholesome and palatable. Its composition is 86.3{e water, 4.5^ sugar and 1.2J^ free 
ftcid. 





SPICED FKUIT 545 

SPICED CHERRIES— Boil together 2 pints vinegar, 2 lbs. 
sugar, and, tied in a bag, -| oz. each of cinnamon, cloves and mace; 
then put in 5 lbs. tart cherries, having the stems left on, and boil 20 
minutes. 

SPICED CURRANTS— Take 4 lbs. sugar, 2 cups of vinegar, 4 
teaspoons each of allspice, cinnamon and cloves (tied in a bag); add 
5 lbs. currants and boil 2 to 3 hours. 

SPICED ELDERBERRIES— Take 2 cups vinegar, 4 lbs. sugar, 1 
teaspoon each of allspice and cloves and 1 table- 
spoon of cinnamon (all tied in a bag), and boil; 
then add 6 lbs. elderberries, boil 2 hours, and 
put in jars. 

The Eldekbebry is widely distributed. The berries 
are sub=acid and sweetish with a rather unpleasant flavor. eldebbebeies. 

Some of the poorer German people use them in soups. 

The flower buds are sometimies pickled and used like capers. They are aperient, 
diuretic and sudorific medicinally. 

SPICED GOOSEBERRIES — Take 5 lbs. gooseberries, 4 lbs. 
sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 tablespoon cloves and cinnamon; boil 3 
hours, then put in jars. 

SPICED GRAPES.— Pulp 7 lbs. grapes and scald until the pulps 
will pass through a sieve; then put them in the preserving kettle, add 
5 lbs. sugar, 1 quart vinegar, and ground cinnamon, cloves and all- 
spice to taste; let boil, add the skins, and boil 1 hour, or longer if 
they are wanted very thick. 

SPICED PEARS. — Take 2 cups vinegar and 6 cups of sugar, and 
put cinnamon, cloves and mace in a bag and boil all till nearly thick 
enough; then put in pears which have been nicely pared, and 3 or 4 
cloves (without the heads) stuck in each one, and boil until they 
look clear; now put the pears in a jar, pour the syrup over, cover 
tightly, and they will keep indefinitely. 

SPICED PEACHES — Wipe 2^ lbs. peaches and boil them until 
tender in 2 cups vinegar and 1 lb. brown sugar; then take them out 
and put in ^ oz. each of cinnamon, mace and cloves, boil them all 
well, and pour over the peaches, 

SPICED TOMATOES.— To each pound of ripe tomatoes (peeled) 
allow -| cup vinegar, | lb. sugar, and spices to taste; boil all together 
gently until the tomatoes are cooked; take out the tomatoes and put 
them on a dish till cold, but let the syrup sinuner; put back the 
tomatoes when cold, and cook till they are a dark red; then take 
them out and boil the syrup down thick. When cold, put in jara 
and seal. 



546 CATSUPS AND SOYS 

CATSUPS AND SOYS. 

In making catsups use good sound fruit. See what we say 
about " The Utensils Used " in the introduction to our article on 
" Jams, Jellies, etc.," as that will apply also for catsups. Do not put 
these up in tin cans, but use glass or stone jars. If mold is found on 
top when the catsup is opened, it can all be removed, and the con- 
tents will not be seriously injured; but if mold is scattered in spots 
throughout the mass, it is worthless. If when a can is opened there 
is danger that the balance of the contents will spoil, it should be 
thoroughly heated. Vinegar can then be added if too thick. 

Catsups, like preserves, should be kept in a dark, dry, cool place 
A few whole cloves laid on top will prevent mold from forming, 

APPLE CATSUP. — Take 12 tart, sound apples, pare and quarter 
them, and cook in very little water until soft; then pulp through a 
sieve; for each quart of this pulp take 2 cups vinegar, 2 medium^ 
sized onions chopped fine, 1 cup of sugar, 2 teasjDoons of cinnamon, 1 
teaspoon each of mustard, cloves and pepper, 1 tablespoon salt; mix 
all together with the pulp, and boil 1 hour; put into jars hc^ and seal 
tight. 

CRAB APPLE CATSUP.— Take | peck of chopped crab apples 
(do not remove the skins), 3 cups of sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 even 
tablespoon salt, 1 teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, pepper, and 
cloves. Cook slowly until soft; then put in jars. 

CHERRY CATSUP.— Take the pits from 2 quarts of nice large 
cherries; put 2 cups of vinegar with 2 cups of sugar, a dozen whole 
cloves, and 2 or 3 sticks of cinnamon, broken coarsely, in the preserv- 
ing kettle, and boil the cherries 10 minutes. Set away in the kettle 
until next day; boil again 5 minutes and pack hot in wide=mouthed 
bottles; cork tightly. A few whole cloves under the corks will pre- 
vent mold in the tops of the bottles. 

CUCUMBER CATSUP— Grate the cucum- 
bers, drain them in a colander, and for each 
quart allow 2 cups vinegar, 4 tablespoons grated 
horseradish, 2 teaspoons salt, and ^ teaspoon 
cayenne pepper. Bottle without cooking, and 
seal. Some cooks cover it with vinegar alone; 
others add 1 large onion, chopped very fine. 

CURRANT CATSUP Take 6 quarts of cuoumbkb. 

currant juice, 2 lbs, sugar, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 

tablespoon each of cinnamon, allspice and salt. Boil half down; 

then add 1 cup vinegar. Cork tightly. 




CATSUPS AND SOYS 



547 



ELDERBERRY CATSUP.— Pick 2 pints elderberries from the 
stalk, put in a jar, and pour over them 2 pints scalding hot vinegar; 
cover with window glass and set in the sun 2 days; then drain off the 
liquor and add 2 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon small pep- 
pers, 6 anchovies soaked and picked to pieces, 1 teaspoon salt, -| tea- 
spoon cloves; boil 1 hour, stirring frequently, and keeping covered 
when not stirring; then take from the stove, let it cool, then strain, 
bottle, and seal. 

GRAPE CATSUP.— Take 6 lbs. grapes, boil in a little water and 
strain; add 3 lbs. sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 
tablespoon each of cloves, cinnamon, extract 
of lemon, and salt; boil until thick, and 
bottle. 

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP.— To 8 quarts 
of gooseberrries add 4 lbs. brown sugar, 2 
cups vinegar, 2 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. cloves. 
Boil 4 hours slowly, and stir frequently. 

LEMON CATSUP.— Mix together 4 tablespoons of white mus- 
tard-seed, 2 tablespoons each of grated horseradish and sugar, 1 
tablespoon each of white pepper and turmeric, 1 tablespoon each of 
mace and cloves, 1 saltspoon of cayenne pepper, 1 shallot minced 
fine; have the spices all ground fine, and sprinkle on 2 tablespoons 
salt. Add the grated rind and juice of 12 lemons, cover, and put for 




GOOSEBEKEIES. 




MUSHROOMS 



bottle and seal. 

MUSHROOM CATSUP.— Put the mush- 
rooms in layers, with salt sprinkled on each 
layer, and let stand 4 days; then mash them 
fine, and to each quart add |- of a teaspoon of 
black pepper, and boil it 2 hours in a crock 
set in boiling water; strain it from the liquor 
without squeezing; boil the liquor, and let it 
stand to cool and settle; then bottle and seal 
securely. 

OYSTER CATSUP.— Chop 1 quart of oysters^ put them in a 
porcelain kettle with their liquor and 1 cup vinegar; bring to a boil, 
skim off the scum as it rises, and boil 3 or 4 minutes; strain through 
coarse flannel or a hair sieve, return the liquor to the fire and add 1 
tablespoon salt, and 1 teaspoon each of mace and cayenne pepper; 
boil 20 minutes, and bottle when cold, sealing it well. 



548 CATSUPS AND SOYS 

PEPPER CATSUP.— Take 50 pods of large, red, bell peppers, 
seeds and all; add 1 x)int vinegar, and boil until you can pull 
it through a sieve; then add to the pulp 1 pint vinegar, 2 tablepoons 
each of sugar, cloves, mace, allspice, salt and onions, and boil all to 
the jDroper consistency. Some cooks omit the spices. 

TOMATO CATSUP. — Tomatoes for catsups are best gathered in 
August, as they become acid and watery later on. Select good toma- 
toes, scald and strain through a sieve; to each 2 quarts of the sifted 
tomatoes, allow 2| tablespoons each of black pepper, salt and ground 
mustard, 1 tablespoon of cloves, and 2 cups of vinegar; boil 3 hours 
and bottle for use. 

Tomato Catsup No. 2. — Take 1 bushel of tomatoes, 2 oz. salt, 1| oz. 
ground black pepper, 1 oz. ground cinnamon, ^ oz. ground cloves, 3 
tablespoons ground mustard. Skin and slice the tomatoes, stew 
them until soft, rub through a sieve, and boil the pulp slowly until it 
is about the consistency of apple butter; then add 1 quart of vinegar 
to which has been added 1 cup of sugar and the above s^Dices; boil up 
twice, bottle and seal. 

WALNUT CATSUP.— Gather the nuts while they are young 
and tender enough to pierce with a pin easily; mash them to a soft 
pulp, and let them lie in salt water 2 weeks; drain 
them, cover with boiling vinegar, mix and mash 
them in it, and strain through a colander ; to each 
quart of the juice add 3 tablespoons each of 
pejDper and grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of 
powdered cloves, 1 tablespoon of ginger; boil 1 
hour, and bottle when cold. 

The Walnut is a native of Persia. In the south of 
Europe it is quite largely consumed, being there considered 
wholesome and nutritious. The unripe fruit, when the shell walnjt. 

is soft, makes an excellent pickle. By boiling them in 
syrup a delicate sweetmeat is prepared. The oil pressed 

from the nut is sometimes used as a substitute for olive oil on the continent, 
and it is the nut oil used in painting. The matter left after the oil is extracted 
is nutritious for poultry or cattle. Grated walnuts are used in Spain for tarts and 
other dishes. 

SOYS. 
CURRANT soy.- Take i gallon of currants and add 2 cups vin- 
egar, 1 cup sugar (heaped), 1 tablespoon mace, the same of allspice, 
1 teaspoon each of cinnamon and pepper; boil all together 1 hour, 
bottle and seal. 

Soy. — The genuine soy is made in Japan and China from the seeds of a plant 
called Dolichos Soja; the seeds are similar to our kidney bean, but are black. The 
Boy is made by boiling the seeds until soft, adding wheat or barley, allowing it to 
ferment, and then adding an equal amount of salt. It becomes clearer with age. 




CATSUPS AND SOYS 549 

There are many stories of its adulteration, some of them unfortunately being too 
true. It is much liked with fish. The term has now come, however, to be applied 
to a kind of catsup. 

GOOSEBERRY SOY.— Take 2 cups vinegar, 3 lbs. sugar, and 6 
lbs. gooseberries; boil 30 minutest 

QRAPE SOY. — Take 5 lbs. grapes and let them simmer gently 
until soft; strain through a sieve and add 2 tablespoons each of all- 
spice and cinnamon, ^ tablespoon each of cloves, grated nutmeg, and 
salt, 3 cups of sugar (heaped), and 2 cups vinegar; mix all thor- 
oughly, boil until thick, bottle and seal. 

PLUM SOY.— Take 1 gallon of plums, boil gently until tender, 
rub through a sieve, and add 2 tablespoons of sugar, the same of salt, 

1 tablespoon each of cloves, ground mustard and black pepper, and 

2 cups vinegar; boil gently 1 hour, bottle and seal. 

GREEN TOMATO SOY.— Take 4 quarts of green tomatoes, sliced 
but not peeled, 12 onions peeled and sliced, add 4 cuj^s sugar, 1 table- 
spoon each of cloves and allspice, 2 tablespoons each of black pepper; 
ground mustard and salt, and |- gallon of good vinegar; boil gently, 
stirring frequently, until tender; bottle and seal. 

RIPE TOMATO SOY.— Peel and slice 4 quarts of ripe tomatoes, 
slice and add 7 onions, sprinkle on 1 cup salt, and let stand 36 
hours, when drain off the liquor; then add 1 teaspoon red pepper, 2 
teaspoons each of allspice, cloves, ginger and ground mustard, and ^ 
gallon of good vinegar; let it simmer quietly 2 hours and add ^ lb. 
white mustard=seed and 4 cups sugar; cook till done, then bottle and 
seal. 



VINEGAR. 

INEGAR (from the French vin aigre meaning literally sour 
wine) is a form of acetic acid, and its flavor varies according 
(i)^" to the source from which it is obtained. Vinegar of the 
best quality is obtained from the grape, white wine vinegar 
being usually considered the best. Cider vinegar is derived from 
cider, and in the United States most of the vinegar was formerly 
obtained from this source. Its flavor is jieculiar, and many prefer it' 
Vinegar is also made from barley, sour ale or beer, glucose, etc. Vin- 
egar containing 5 % of the pure acetic acid is called proof vinegar, 
and is the strongest that is used, but much of that sold in the market 
contains only 3% of the acid or even less. It is frequently adulter- 
ated with other acids like sulphuric, muriatic, etc. Many flavored 
vinegars used for culinary purposes are merely ordinary vinegar fla- 
vored with fruits, herbs or vegetables. We give elsewhere recipes for 
making a great variety of these. 

All vegetable juices can go through the acetous fermentation and 
produce vinegar. The process can be hastened by introducing a lit- 
tle ferment, like yeast. The fermentation takes place most readily at 
70° to 90° F., but below 60° or above 90° the action begins to dimin- 
ish; boiling and freezing both stop it altogether. 

Vinegar can be made from any pure fruit jelly which has begun 
fermenting, or which will not " set." All that is needed is to add 
water and set it in a warm place, or exposed to the sun is best, 
covered with mosquito netting. Adding a little " mother," or yeast, 
will hasten it. Vinegar can also be made from cider or any pure 
fruit wine in the same way, but add a little sugar. 

Vinegar and yeast are best kept in glass vessels; glazed ware is 
not suitable, as their acids attack the glazing, extract its lead, and 
produce the poisonous acetate of lead. See what we say about 
"The Utensils Used" in our preceding chapter on "Jams, Jellies, 
etc." It will apply for vinegar, also. 

Mother of vinegar is a fungus, or low form of plant life (the Mycodermi aceti). 
A little of this put into a sweet or alcoholic solution will soon convert it into acetic 
acid or vinegar. The plant may be divided and propagated to any extent. 

Vinegar can hardly be said to have any nutritive value, its office being to stim- 
ulate the nerves of taste, and to flavor various foods. It also has a powerful pre- 
servative action, preventing the decomposition of vegetable and animal sub- 
stances. 

550 



VINEGAR 



551 




APPLE VINEGAR. — When cooking apples, save the parings 
and cores (if sound) ; they can be thrown into a jar from time to time, 
as they accumulate; add enough soft water to cover, and 1 cup of 
sugar or molasses to each 7 or 8 quarts of water; keep out insects by 
covering with netting; keep it in a warm place and it will form good 
vinegar, 

BEET VINEGAR. — A good vinegar can be 
made from beets by extracting the juice, and 
letting it stand in a warm place, or exposed to 
the sun, covered with netting; a little yeast will 
hasten the process. 

CHERRY VINEGAR.— Into 1 quart of good 
cider put 4 lbs. cherries, mashed, and add their 
stones, also; let stand 24 hours, and add 4 lbs. 
more cherries without their stones; let stand 3 
days and strain (but do not squeeze) through a 
thin bag; add 1 quart of sugar to each quart of beet. 

juice, and boil gently 80 minutes; skim and bot- 
tle when cold. 

CIDER VINEGAR — To each 2 quarts of cider add 1 cup molas- 
ses and ^ cup yeast; keep covered where the temperature is 70° to 
90° and it will soon make vinegar; then draw it off from the dregs, 
and keep in a jug, or bottles, tightly corked. Cider for vinegar, 
should be made from good sound apples which are not wormy or 
decayed. 

CLOVER VINEGAR.— Put into a jar 1 quart of molasses, and 
pour on 2^ gallons of pure soft water, boiling hot; as soon as it is 
barely lukewarm, add 2 cups hop yeast and 5 pints clover blossoms; 
cover and let stand a fortnight; then strain through cloth. 

CORN VINEGAR Put into a jar 2 cups of corn cut from the 

cob, add 2 cups of molasses or brown sugar, and 4 quarts of pure soft 
water; set it in the sun covered with netting to keep out the insects; 
in 3 weeks it will make good vinegar, which is preferred by many 
people to cider vinegar. 

CURRANT VINEGAR.— To 1 gallon of pure soft water add 3 
cups brown sugar and 5 cups strained currant juice; keep in a warm 
place (from 70° to 90°) and it will form vinegar. Or, mash the cur- 
rants, let stand over night, strain, and let the juice stand in a warm 
place until fermentation ceases. White currants will make a deli- 
cate, pale vinegar. 



552 VINEGAR 

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR,— Take ripe gooseberries, mash them, 
and to each quart add 1| quarts soft water, milk warm; let it stand 
24 hours, strain it, and add 1 lb. coarse brown sugar to each quart; 
let it stand in a warm place in the kitchen, and in 2 or 3 months it 
will make fine vinegar. It will be superior to much that is sold as 
white wine vinegar. 

HONEY VINEGAR.— Mix thoroughly into 1 gallon of warm soft 
water, 2 cups of clear honey; cover and let it ferment, when it will 
make good vinegar. 

MOLASSES VINEGAR.— To each gallon of warm soft water add 
1 pint molasses and ^ cup yeast; keep warm and in 3 weeks it will 
make vinegar. 

POTATO VINEGAR — Take the water in which potatoes have 
been boiled, and to a gallon add ^ cup hop yeast and 2 cups sugar; 
cover with netting, let stand exposed to the sun or in a warm place, 
and in about a month it will make good vinegar. 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR.— Put raspberries 
in a stone jar and add enough vinegar to cover 
them; let stand 6 days covered over, but stirring 
occasionally; then strain through flannel; add 
sugar pint for pint, boil ^ hour, skim, and bottle 
when cold. 

The Raspbekky belongs to the same species as the 
blackberry. There are 2 kinds — the red and the white. 
Th6 white is the rarer of the two. The juice is rich and 
abundant, and the fruit is wholesome and valuable to people 
of a nervous or bilious temperament. 

RHUBARB VINEGAR.— Crush the rhubarb, ^aspbeebies. 

cover with lukewarm water, and let stand 36 hours; then strain, add 
1^ lbs. raw sugar or molasses to the gallon of juice, and also add a lit- 
tle yeast; keep it covered and in a warm place for 4 weeks; then 
strain, put in a keg and leave it to ripen. 

SORGHUM VINEGAR.— Use about 4 gallons of water to 1 gal- 
lon of sorghum; keep it in a warm place, or in the sun covered with 
netting, and it will turn to vinegar. Adding a little yeast will 
hasten the process. 

Tomato vinegar can be made of it by adding 1 gallon of ripe 
tomatoes at the same time that the sorghum is added. 

SUGAR VINEGAR.— To 1 gallon of water add 1^ lbs. raw sugar, 
and 4 pint yeast; keep it at about 80°; in 4 days it can be drawn ofP, 
when add 1 oz. each of cream of tartar and chopped raisins; in a few 
weeks it will be ready to bottle. 




VINEGAK 553 

YEAST VINEGAR — Put into an open keg or jar 2 quarts of 
hop yeast sponge (set and allowed to get light as for bread); add 5 
lbs. sugar or molasses, 5 gallons of soft water, and 2 quarts of corn 
which has been boiled until tender (adding it when cold); keep it 
covered and in 3 weeks it will make fine vinegar. 

AROMATIC VINEGAR — Take 15 grains of oil of cloves, 10 
grains oil of cinnamon, 5 grains of oil of lavender, 1 oz. of camphor, 
I pint glacial acetic acid; mix and bottle. Aromatic vinegar is a 
nasal stimulant useful for reviving and refreshing those who suffer 
from faintness and nervous headaches. 

SPICED VINEGAR.— Mix and tie in small muslin bags, 1 oz. 
each of allspice, celery seed, cloves, turmeric, mace, pepper, ground 
mustard and white ginger cut small; add 3 cups sugar and 1^ gallons 
vinegar; keep closely covered and use as needed. 



BEVERAGES. 




HEN it is remembered that abont 87% of the body consists 
of water, which is constantly evaporating and passing 
away, and which must be regularly renewed, the neces- 
sity and importance of beverages will be readily seen. 
Water is the most natural drink for man, and however it may be 
flavored or disguised it is the chief ingredient in all his beverages. 
Not less than 3^ pints a day are needed by an ordinary person, and 
those who are very large or active may need 4 or 5 pints daily. Al- 
though water is found in all the food we take, a large proportion of 
the needed amount must be taken in beverages. Although in hot 
weather cold drinks are very refreshing, and within proper limits are 
not objectionable, at other times they often chill the digestive organs 
and depress the nerve centers, so that there is reason as well as plea- 
sure in the use of hot drinks. 

TEA. 

Of all the beverages devised by man tea is probably the most 
extensively used. 

TO MAKE TEA. — Allow 1 teaspoon of tea for each cup water, 
and an extra one for the pot. This is the old rule, but it varies 
somewhat with the quality of the tea, less being required of the finer 
grades than of the cheap teas, and as the finer grades go farther 
they are not so much more expensive in the end. If much is made 
at once the proportion can be reduced a little. Pour boiling water 
into the teapot, and let it stand until the pot is heated through; then 
pour out the water, put in the tea, and pour on the water boiling hot, 
cover closely, and set for 3 to 5 minutes where' it will keep hot but 
without boiling. English breakfast tea may stand 3, and black tea 5 
minutes; then pour into the cups. 

ICED TEA {Russian Recipe). — Tea for icing should be made 
rather stronger than when intended for drinking hot, letting the 
boiling water stand on the tea for 7 minutes; then pour the tea from 
the leaves, sweeten to taste, and stand it in a refrigerator for 5 or 6 
hours. Serve it in a bowl with lumps of ice and slices of lemon 
floating in it. Have a pitcher of ice water at hand to weaken it for 
those who think it too strong. In serving it each person should 
receive a lump of ice and a slice of lemon. 

654 



BEVERAGES 655 

Iced Tea No. 2. — For each tumbler of water allow 1 teaspoon of 
the best tea; put the tea, water and lumps of ice into an earthen ves- 
sel and stand in the refrigerator 5 or 6 hours. Easier than the for- 
mer method. 

ORANGE TEA — Slice a tart orange, peel and all, place a slice 
in each cui3, and fill with hot tea. 

The Pbinciples Inyolved. — Experiments have shown that five=sixths of the 
valuable qualities are extracted from tea by boiling water in 3 minutes, and in 
10 minutes the leaves are nearly exhausted. If the leaves are steeped a second 
time, or if they remain too long in the hot water, the aroma is wasted, the tannin 
is extracted which makes the tea bitter, and it then disorders the digestion. Much 
of the evil wrought by tea is caused by this too long infusion which extracts a 
large part of its tannin. 

The object to aim at is to extract as much as possible of the theine and vola- 
tile oil, and as little as possible of the tannin. When the infusion is once com- 
plete, adding fresh tea adds very little to the strength; if more tea is wanted, 
empty out the old leaves, scald the pot, and make fresh tea as before. 

Essentials of Making Tea — The following are the 4 essentials for 
good tea: (1) Use good tea, and have the right amount of it. (2) 
Have the water 'boiling hot (not lukewarm) when poured on. (3) 
Have the teapot hot before the tea and water are put in. (4) Do not 
let it steep too long. Stewed tea is no good. 

If Tea Is Required Quickly, put it into the teapot and stand it in 
the oven while the water is coming to the boil; as soon as that is boil- 
ing hot pour it on the tea, and in a minute it can be served. 

The Teapot. — A china teapot is the best to use. Do not use tin, 
because a poisonous compound is produced by the action on the 
metal of the tannic acid of the tea. The teapot should be clean and 
dry before using. 

The Water Used. — In making tea the water used is an important 
consideration. Soft water is better than hard, but if it is too soft 
it is apt to extract too much of the general properties of the tea and 
sacrifice its delicacy of flavor, and if too hard it does not extract the 
theine and volatile oil readily enough. Do not use water which has 
been twice boiled, or which has boiled long before being used, be- 
cause boiling expels the air and gasses and makes the water flat and 
tasteless. This is really an important item — far more important than 
many people imagine. The more rapidly the water is heated the bet- 
ter the tea. When the water is poured on the tea it should be boiling 
hot, and not either cold or lukewarm, and it should be poured on as 
soon as it boils. If poured on cold and brought to a boil it will 
extract the tannic acid, injuring both the flavor and the value of the 
tea. Carbonate of soda has been sometimes used in making tea; it 
may soften very hard water, but it will spoil the flavor and effect of 
the tea. 




556 BEVERAGES 

Hints. — With some persons the sleeplessness and headache caused 
by drinking tea is prevented by putting in a slice of lemon instead of 
the milk. 

Weak green tea with a little sugar and lemon juice in it, but no 
milk, is a very refreshing drink in cases of fever, taken either hot oi 
cold. 

The tea plant (Thea sinensis) is native to China, Japan and Northern India. 
The use of the dried leaves is said to have been introduced into China from Corea 
in the 4th century, and from thence to Japan, and to have been brought to Europe' 
by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century. The 
leaves of the tea plant can only be gathered at certain sea- 
sons. The first picking is in April. It yields the finest tea, 
but little of it is shipped abroad, as a sea voyage injures its 
delicate flavor. This tea is largely used by the wealthy Chi- 
nese, and some of it is carried overland to Russia. The next 
picking is in May, and a third, later in the season, furnishes 
the inferior teas which are bitterer and more woody than that 
gathered earlier. 

Tea leaves are dried in pans which are heated over smoke- 
less fires. Green teas are dried quickly to preserve their color, 
while black teas are exposed to the air for a time and undergo 
a sort of fermentation which darkens them. In tea producing 
countries the decoction is drunk alone without flavoring; in 
other countries something is added. The Germans often flavor it with rum, cinna- 
mon or vanilla. The Russians squeeze in lemon juice, while some savage tribes 
in Tartary boil the leaves with soda, season them with butter and salt, and eat 
them. 

Tea contains an alkaloid called theine, which is similar to the caffeine in coffee, 
and theobromine in cocoa. Besides this it contains a volatile oil, some tannic acid, 
and some ordinary food substances. Its volatile or essential oil is develojjcd dur- 
ing drying and roasting, and ought not to escape, as upon this its market value 
depends more than on anything else. The volatile oil, as well as the theine and 
tannin, is more abundant in green than in black tea. As ordinarily made, 3 times 
as much theine is obtained from tea as from coffee. 

The nutritive element in tea is very small, it being a stimulant rather than a 
food, but, "it aids the assimilation and transformation of other foods, increases 
cheerfulness and activity, clears and quickens the brain, and lessens the desire to 
sleep." It warms the body when cold, cools it when hot by promoting the perspi- 
ration of the skin, and has an astrinf^cnt action on the bowels. Tea contains from 
2 to 4:% of theine, about 1^ of essential oil, life of tannin, and 20;^ of nitrogenous mat- 
ter insoluble in water. Taken to excess it acts like a vegetable poison, and with 
young people it is liable to interfere with the proper development of the nervous 
system. 

COFFEE. 

It is safe to say that a large percentage of the people who use 
coffee never drank a really first class cup of it, and a large projjortion 
of the stuff served as coffee is unworthy of the name. And yet good 
coffee is not difficult to make if it is handled intelligently. 

The water used should be fresh and clear. Long boiling of the 
water expels the air and gases, and makes it flat and insipid. It 
should therefore be used as soon as it boils, and this is a much more 
important item than many people imagine. Do not reboil the water, 
nor let it boil long before being used, or the best results cannot be 
obtained. 



BEVERAGES 557 

The roasting of the coffee is also an important matter. It is best 
roasted and ground just before it is used. If more is roasted than 
needed, for immediate use it should be kept in an airtight glass jar or 
canister; if exposed to the air it deteriorates. Unpleasant odors and 
moisture are readily absorbed by it, so keep it in a dry and clean 
place. To roast coffee, put the desired quantity into a perfectly 
clean, broad dripping X3an; have a moderate heat at first, shake and 
stir frequently; after 20 or 30 minutes increase the heat and stir fre- 
quently until it is an even chestnut or " coffee color." If any berries 
are burned they must be picked out and thrown away, or they will 
spoil the coffee. Remember that the peculiar and delightful aroma 
of coffee is due to the changes in one or more oils produced by this 
roasting; in raw berries it is lacking. When properly roasted the.se 
elements constitute about 13% of the berry. If not heated suffi- 
ciently the aroma is not properly developed; if heated too much the 
flavor is again dissipated. 

When the berries are properly browned, lift the pan from the 
stove to the table and stir in 1 tablespoon of butter and the beaten 
white of 2 eggs to each jpound of coffee, stirring it quickly and .well 
that each berry may be glazed. This helps to develop the aroma, and 
also to confine it in the berry until let out by grinding. All the cof- 
fee which is not used at once should be put into a sieve, when 
cold, and shaken to break apart any berries which stick together; 
then put it into an air-tight canister. 

If coffee is bought at the store, roasted but not ground, each 
time any is used put into the frying=pan what you want for that meal, 
but no more; heat it over a quick fire until the aroma is perceptible, 
shaking it constantly and adding barely enough butter to gloss but 
not make it greasy; then grind it at once and use it. If it was 
ground at home and buttered, reheat it and use the same way, but 
without buttering it. This freshens it and develops its aroma. Re- 
member that the coffee should always go hot from the frying-pan to 
the coffee mill, and from the mill to the coffee pot, if you want the 
best results. If ground coffee is used, that can also be heated until 
the aroma is perceptible, before adding the water. 

Grinding the Coffee. — Be sure your coffee is ground right. Most 
grocers grind the coffee too coarse, so that much more coffee is used 
than necessary, because in coarse coffee the flavor is not readily ex- 
tracted. If you grind it yourself make it about like coarse corumeal 
—not coarser than that. If your grocer grinds it make him grind it 
the same way. He may not like to, but it is the best and most eco- 
nomical way and insist on it. If it is too fine (say as fine as flour), on 



558 BEVEKAGES 

the other hand, it will clog the strainer. It is too coarse if it is like 
rice or coarse oatmeal. 

Over=boiling.^The tannic acid in coffee should not be extracted or 
it will make the coffee bitter, and it will also disorder the stom- 
ach more; 5 minutes is the limit to which coffee should be boiled to 
avoid this, while 3 minutes is better. It is an erroneous idea that the 
longer coffee boils the stronger and better it is. After the caffeine 
and aroma are extracted, further boiling is a detriment. Cover the 
spout also when boiling coffee in a coffee pot, that the aroma may not 
escape through it. The one great object in making coffee is to ex- 
tract and retain the caffeine and aromatic essential oils, icithout ex- 
tracting the tannin, and any method which does this is a good 
method. 

The Cream and Sugar — The milk served with coffee should be 
scalding hot, but should not be boiled. A pitcher of milk can be set 
in a pan of hot water and brought nearly to the boiling point day 
after day, without injuring the china. Some persons find the taste of 
boiled milk objectionable. Serve cream also if you can; 1 tablespoon 
of cream and 2 of hot milk is about right. If the coffee is very 
strong, fill the cup ^ to ^ full of coffee, and fill it up with hot milk; 
this is much better than diluting the coffee with water. Never fill a 
cup quite full — it must not run over. Allow each guest to add the 
sugar to his taste, unless it is one of the family whose taste you 
know. A very pretty effect is j)roduced by placing on the surface of 
each cup a teaspoon of whipped cream. 

Settling the Coffee. — Isinglass, fish skins, eggs and cold water are 
used to clear or settle coffee. Egg shells can be washed and saved 
for this purpose, 2 or 3 of them being enough to clear a quart of 
coffee; they answer about as well as the egg itself, and are less expen- 
sive. 

The Coffee Pot. — As good coffee as was ever tasted can be made 
with a common coffee pot, but some prefer a French biggin or some 
other device. Those who like these improvements and find them a 
help can use them, but do not imagine that they are really necessary 
in order to make good coffee, for they are not. But whatever coffee 
pot is used must be absolutely clean — not even milk pans require 
more scrupulous cleanliness. 

Every time the coffee pot is used it should be thoroughly 
cleaned, spout and all. If neglected, or if the coffee is allowed to 
stand long in the pot, a sort of black, greasy deposit will form on the 
inside, and it will spoil all coffee made in the pot while it is there. 
So wash, scald and dry the pot each time after being used. Dry 



BEVEKAGES 559 

eacli piece of a Frencli coffee pot separately. Scald it out with liot 
water — cold water sets the greasy jBlm, and is worse than useless. Do 
not use any soap or soapy water, but/?'es/i, liot water merely. 

If the pot has been neglected, and is coated, put in a tablespoon 
of washing soda, fill it with water, and boil it for a long time; then 
scrub it out well, rinse it with hot water, and dry it. Boil the 
strainers and all parts in the soda water, and scrub them also. Do 
not heat the coffee pot too hot in drying it, or the next coffee made 
in it will taste burnt. 

Essentials of Making Coffee.— The essentials of making good coffee 
are the following: (1) Have good coffee, and use the right ciuantity 
of it. (2) Have it hot so that there is a perceptible smell of the 
aroma before it goes to the coffee pot. (3) Cook it just long enough 
to extract all the caffeine and aroma, without getting the tannic acid. 
(4) Serve it hot at once, and with hot milk. (5) Be sure the coffee 
pot is clean and in good condition. 

There are many ways of making coffee. It may be boiled or 
unboiled, made in a plain coffee pot or a French biggin or "grecque" 
and so on. While the object aimed at is the same in all cases, the 
modus operandi must vary with the coffee pot used, etc. We will 
explain a few of the best methods, with and without the biggin. 
But remember that by no process will the result be satisfactory 
unless good coffee is used, and, also, if you would have really good 
coffee you must take pains with it. If you will observe the princi- 
ples which underlie the process you can serve up most delicious 
coffee which will make glad the hearts of those who drink it. 

Amount of Coffee to Use. — Allow 1 heaping tablespoon of ground 
coffee for each cup of water; this is the standard rule, but if a large 
quantity is made the proportion can be a little less. 

FILTERED COFFEE WITHOUT EGG.— Have the coffee 
heated hot, pour on the water boiling hot, cover closely, let it stand 5 
minutes, strain it through muslin (having it wrung out of hot water) 
into the coffee pot (having that heated); cover it, set it on the stove 
and heat a moment (not boil) and serve. Have the milk thoroughly 
hot. The coffee may be heated in a pan or pitcher if more conven- 
ient. 

BOILED COFFEE WITHOUT EGG.— Scald the coffee pot; put 
in the coffee, pour on the water boiling hot, stir it well, bring it to a 
boil, move it to the back of the range keeping it hot, ivitho,(f further 
boiling; add | cup of cold water, let stand 5 minutes, turn out 1 cup 
coffee, pour back into the pot, do the same agaiu, let stand 5 minutes 



560 BEVERAGES 

to settle, and serve. Boiled coflPee has a different flavor from the 
filtered, and many prefer it. 

BOILED COFFEE WITH EQQ — Scald the cofPee pot; put in 
the coffee and egg shell, (or the egg or isinglass if they are used 
instead); add the water, boiling hot, cover closely, and boil 3 to 5 
minutes — no more. Set where it will keep hot but not boil; pour in 
^ cup of cold water; pour out 1 cup of coffee to clear the spout, and 
pour it back again; let stand 10 minutes, and serve. 

FRENCH COFFEE WITH COLD WATER — Heat the coffee, 
put it in the filter of a French coffee pot or biggin, add a very little 
cold water, a tablespoon at a time; let it stand 30 to 60 minutes, then 
pour in the balance of the water slowly, a cupful at a time; when it 
has all filtered through turn it out, and pour it through the filter 
again; cover it tightly, and when ready to serve bring it just to a 
boil (never boil it) and serve immediately. Coffee can be made thus 
at your leisure, and not heated until ready to serve it. 

FRENCH COFFEE WITH BOILING WATER.— Heat the cof- 
fee, put it into the filter of the biggin, and pour on just enough 
boiling water to moisten it well; let stand 5 minutes, and pour on the 
balance of the water slowly, a cupful at a time, and wait 2 or 3 min- 
utes between each cup; if wanted very strong turn out the coffee and 
pour it through the filter again; serve at once. This coffee should 
never boil; the best way to avoid this is to set the coffee pot in a pan 
of boiling water while the water is being filtered through the coffee. 

COFFEE BY A SIMPLE METHOD— Heat the coffee and tie it in 
a muslin bag; scald the coffee pot, suspend the bag in it, pour on the 
water boiling hoi (be sure it covers the bag), let it stand 10 minutes 
where it will keep hot but not boil, and serve. This answers some- 
what the same purpose as the French biggin, but can be used by 
those who do not have one. 

STEAMED COFFEE.— This can be made in a double boiler 
kept for the purpose, or by setting the coffee pot in a pan of boiling 
water; steam 20 minutes, then strain it into a heated coffee pot, and 
serve. 

COFFEE WITH COLD WATER.— Let the coffee and water 
stand all night in an earthen or china pot, closely covered; in the 
morning bring to the boiling point merely, and serve. No clearing 
or straining is needed. 

CAFE NOIR.— This is a French term meaning literally " black 
coffee." It can be made like other coffee, but very strong, using 



BEVEKAGES 561 

twice as much coffee (2 tablespoons) for each cup of water. It is 
served in small cups with sugar, but no milk or cream are served 
with it. 

CAFE AU LAIT. — This is a French term meaning " coffee and 
milk." It is simply very strong coffee, to which is added a large 
proportion of good hot milk — half and half being the proportions. 
Sweeten to taste. 

VIENNA COFFEE. — This consists simply in adding to each 
cup of coffee 3 tablespoons of whipped cream. Equal parts of 
whipped cream and beaten white of egg are sometimes used. 

ICED COFFEE — Make a quart of extra strong coffee and let it 
get cold; beat 2 eggs very light, stir into them 2 cups milk and 4 
tablespoons cream; sweeten to taste, and stand in the refrigerator 5 
or 6 hours. Serve with a lump of ice in the pitcher. If no refriger- 
ator is at hand the pitcher can be set for 1 hour in a i^ail of ice and 
salt (|- ice to ^ salt); take care that it does not freeze. Iced tea can 
be cooled the same way. 

CARAMEL COFFEE — Use caramel made as directed for "Pre- 
pared Caramel" in the article on "Colors for Frosting, etc.," in the 
chapter on "Cake." Add 1 teaspoon of good ground coffee for each ^ 
cup of the caramel; let it boil for a minute, strain it, and add an 
equal'amount of hot milk, or milk and cream. Children like it; so 
do " children of a larger growth." 

SUBSTITUTES FOR COFFEE.— Take 4 cups unground loheat 
or rye, add |- cup molasses, rub all together with your hands, and 
brown it in the oven like genuine coffee. When used, grind and put 
it in a muslin bag and boil it in a coffee pot; very good and slightly 
nutritious. If desired, it can be mixed with genuine coffee when 
used. 

Oatmeal, grouad barley or graham flour can be browned and used 
also. In using them allow 1 tablespoon to a cup of water; moisten it 
with a little cold water, pour on the water boiling hot, and let stand 
10 minutes. 

Corn Coffee. — Roasted sweet corn, browned without pojjping or 
hardening, is easily broken in a mortar, and makes a delicious drink 
for invalids, children, and those who cannot drink coffee. Try it. 

Cornmeal can also be roasted brown and used; boil 5 minutes and 
strain; a little salt can be added to improve the flavor. 

These substitutes for coffee contain no caffeine, nor anythiii},' similar to it. so 
than they possess no power as stimulants. Their value is simply that of hot water 
containing a little flavoring and nourishment, which is increased by the milk and 
sugar used. 
36 



562 



BEVERAGES 




COFFEE. 



Coffee. — The origin of the use of coffee is involved in 
obscurity. It was not known to the Greeks and Romans. It 
was introduced into Europe in the 17th century. Mocha is an 
Arabian coffee. The brands from Central and South America 
were formerly considered inferior, but some of the best cofifees 
now come from those regions. Maracaibo is often sold for Java, 
and is quite as good. Unground coSee is adulterated very little, 
but the ground coffee is almost universally adulterated. 

"Coffee," says Prof. Johnstone, "exhilarates, arouses and. 
keeps awake; it counteracts the stupor occasioned by fatigue, by 
disease, or opium. It allays hunger to a certain extent; it gives 
to the weary increased strength and vigor, and it imparts a feel- 
ing of comfort and repose." It appears to make the brain more 
active, and the demand for food less, by checking the change and 
waste of the body. Taken in excess, it produces tremors and 
contractions of the muscles, and an exhilaration somewhat like that of alcohol. It 
is not so stimulating as tea, and it does not increase the perspiration so much. It 
owes its stimulating effect to the caffeine and aromatic oils. It contains only 
about 1% of caffeine and ifc of tannin, and is therefore less injurious than tea to the 
coatings of the stomach. 

Coffee loses 20 to 30^ in roasting, but the roasting accomplishes several things. 
It makes it brittle and easily ground; the aromatic properties are developed as 
previously explained; the tannin and other properties are rendered partly soluble 
in water, and its sugar is all converted into caramel; this gives color and part of 
the flavor to the coffee. 

The color and flavor may be increased by mixing a little caramel with the 
ground coffee, a fact which many people do not understand. 

Mixing Coffee. — Coffee can be mixed to obtain different flavors. Rio and San- 
tas are strong, while Java, Mocha, and Maracaibo are mild coffees. A rich, deli- 
cate flavored coffee is obtained by using Vg Java and % Mocha, and that is proba- 
bly the most popular mixture. Some mix them half and half. For a strong cof- 
fee use Rio alone, or temper it as desired by mixing some of the milder brands 
with it. Some people like equal parts of Rio, Mocha and Java. 

Keeping Coffee. — Green coffee, that is the unroasted bean, not only does riot lose 
its flavor but actually improves, by keeping for 2 or 3 years. It can advanta- 
geously be bought by the sack when the market is favorable, and it should be of a 
yellowish or brownish shade and well seasoned. Store it in a dry, cool place. 
As coffee readily absorbs bad odors nothing strongly odorous should be stored 
near it; much coffee has thus been ruined. 

Chicoky. — This is prepared by cutting the roots of the 
chicory plant {Cicorium intibns) into small pieces and roast- 
ing them, much as coffee is roasted. It was first mixed with 
coffee by the Dutch, but is now used in all countries. While 
it is properly an adulteration, it is not deleterious. It does 
not possess any trace of the alkaloid caffeine, which is one 
of the peculiar properties of coffee, but it does possess an 
aromatic oil, starch, sugar (which will turn to caramel in 
roasting) nitrogenous substances and salts. It is used by 
some people as an independent beverage. It will give body, 
color and bitterness to coffee, and possibly modify its stim- 
ulant effect by acting as a diuretic, sedative and tonic. Some housekeepers add 
chicory to their coffee, using 1 to 4 oz. of chicory to a pound of coffee. Unfortn- 
nately, chicory is often adulterated, as well as coffee. 

CHOCOLATE. 

Whipped Cream is best to serve with chocolate. It can be whipped 
with a Dover egg beater, and |- pint is enough for a dozen cups. 

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.— Put the grated chocolate in a sauce= 
pan and dissolve it in a very little boiling water; then add the de- 
sired amount of cold milk, bring it slowly to a boil, and it is ready to 
serve. 




OHIOOBY. 



BEVEKAOES 563 

The Spaniards mix chocolate so thick that a spoon can stand up in it. Choc- 
olate is, much improved by frosting, but to do this properly a French or Italian 
chocolatiere is required, with a ■whisk passed through the lid so that it can be 
whisked while coming to the boil. 

CHOCOLATE "MAILLARD'S STYLE."— Put into a saucepan 
f cup of sugar, a tablespoon of salt, 1 cup grated chocolate aud 1 cup 
boiling water and stir until smooth; then add 1 cup boiling water 
and 2 cups boiling milk and boil 1 minute only. In ^ cup of cold 
milk dissolve 1 level teaspoon of corn^starch; stir it in, boil 1 minute 
more, take from the fire, add 1 teaspoon of vanilla flavor, and serve. 
The salt, corn=starch and vanilla add to its richness and flavor. 

CHOCOLATE WITH EGG.— Allow for each person 1 large ta- 
blespoon of grated chocolate; put it in a sauce=pan and slowly add 
boiling water, stirring and boiling a little until it thickens; then pour 
in enough milk to cool it, sweeten with sugar, and stir in 1 or 2 eggs 
well beaten, using more or less as desired; make up the desired quan- 
tity by adding milk, or milk and water, and simmer; not boil, 10 
minutes; flavor with vanilla and serve. If allowed to boil after add- 
ing the eggs they will become "curdled." 

CHOC A — This is caf6 au lait and chocolate mixed in equal 
quantities. Many people like it for breakfast. 

COCOA. 
TO MAKE COCOA — To | gallon of water add 1 gill of broken 
cocoa, and let it boil gently until reduced -^ (about 2 hours); equal 
parts of shells and cocoa can be used if preferred. If it cools and 
the fat is taken from the surface, and it is then heated again, it will 
digest more easily. Serve with cream, or scalded milk, and sugar. 
Cocoa can be flavored by adding a little vanilla extract if desired. 
In Spain, cloves, cinnamon and musk are also used to flavor it. 

TO USE PREPARED COCOA.— Allow 2 teaspoons to a cup-, 
add enough cold milk to form a smooth paste, then add equal parts 
boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all together well. There are 
many preparations of cocoa, some of which are recommended for 
preparation at the table, but all cocoa is better for being boiled 1 or 
2 minutes. Use hot milk to dilute it. 

COCOA SHELLS. — In use allow \ cup of the shells to 1 cup of 
water; pour on the water boiling hot and lot them simmer gently 3 or 
4 hours; as the water boils away add more; then strain, and serve. 
Sugar and cream, or hot milk, goes with it. 



564 



BEVERAGES 



ICED COCOA.— Make the cocoa in the usual way, and for each 2 
cups beat in | cup whipped cream; sweeten to taste, let stand till 
cold, and serve in glasses containing a little chipped. ice. 



Cocoa is made from the seeds of the Theobromo cacao, 
grows in Central and South America and the West Indies. (Th 




COCOA BEAN. 



as an adulteration. 



small tree which 
bromo means lit- 
erally " food of the Gods," a name given it by Linnaeus who was excessively fond 
of chocolate). The fruit is shaped something like a cu- 
cumber; the outside skin is thick, the pulp sweet and 
palatable; the seeds are much like almonds, witha thin 
skin, and the kernel is dark, bitter, oily and aromatic. 

Cocoa shells are the husks or shells. They contain 
little fat, but have more astringent matter than the seeds. 
They make a i^leasant and wholesome drink, not stimu- 
lating, and well suited to nervous invalids and children. 
They need long boiling. An inferior cocoa is sometimes 
made by grinding the shells with the seeds. 

Cocoa nibs are the seeds freed from the husks, roast- 
ed and cracked, but not ground, although some of the fat 
is usually removed. Prepared cocoa is made by grind- 
ing the kernel to powder, removing some of the fat, and 
adding a certain amount of sugar and starch. Some of 
the husk is ground and added to many of the cheaper cocoas. 

The cocoa bean contains about 1% of theobromine, which is an alkaloid much 
like caffeine and theine; about 50^ of fat; from U% to 18^ of nitrogenous substance, 
^4 of which is soluble in water; i% of starch, and about 7% of an astringent princi- 
ple much like tannin. 

Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs ground into a paste by machinery, mixed 
with sugar, flavored, and pressed into molds of various shapes. It is the most con- 
venient and nutritious way of preparing cocoa. 
It does not stimulate the nervous system as much 
as tea and coffee do, and it is food as well as drink, 
satisfying hunger to some extent. Delicate stom- 
achs will digest it more readily if the oily scum is 
removed from the surface after it is boiled, but for 
healthy beople the scum is nutritious and need not 
be removed. 

Coca is the dried leaf of the Enjfhroxylon Co- 
ca, a plant resembling the blackthorn. It is used 
by the inhabitants of Peru and Bolivia, who chew 
the leaves and make an infusion of them. It is es- 
timated that 8,000,000 people use it, but it is little 
used in this country, except by a few cyclists or' 
pedestrians. It derives its special properties from 
the alkaloid cocaine. It is a powerful stimulant to 
the nervous system and enables fatigue to be borne 
more easily for a time, but there is some uncer- 
tainty about the exact effects of its continued use. 

Mate, ob Paraguay Tea is prepared from the 
Brazillian holly. It is used in Paraguay and Bra- 
zil, but very little in this country. It contains 1 or 

2^ of theine, about 16^ of tannin, some aromatic oil, and gluten. It acts mainly 
on the nervous system, but also affects the digestive system. It is not suitable for 
general consumption, and is very injurious if habitually used. 

MISCELLANEOUS BEVERAGES. 
APPLE WATER. — Take tart apples, quarter and core; add \ their 
weight of sugar, cover with water, and simmer till tender; strain 
through a jelly bag and cool. Put pounded ice in the glass when 
you drink it. 




MATE OK PARAGUAY TEA. 



BEVERAGES 565 

BLACKBERRY NECTAR.— Crush the berries, add an equal 
amount of water, and 1 teaspoon orange juice and 1 sliced lemon to 
each 2 quarts; let stand 4 hours, strain through flannel, and to 1 
quart of juice add 1 cup sugar. Kee^o on ice till ready to serve. 

CHERRY ACID — Dissolve 8 oz. citric acid in 1 quart water; 
pour it on a bowl of cherries and let stand 6 or 8 hours; strain off the 
juice, pour it over another bowl of cherries and let stand the same 
time; strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint sugar, boil, skim, 
bottle, and cork while hot. 

COCOANUT BEVERAGE — Break 2 cocoanuts, saving the milk 
carefully; grate the cocoanuts, add them to the milk and also 4 pints 
water; put in a sauce^pan, and boil 5 minutes, stirring with a 
wooden spoon continually to prevent burning (it will ruin it to 
burn); then strain, add f lb. powdered sugar, and mix well. Ice it 
and serve. 

CREAM SODA. — Boil together, for 3 or 4 minutes, 1| quarts 
water, 4^ cuios sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 oz. tartaric acid; 
when cold, add the well-beaten whites of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of 
flour blended in |- cup cold water; flavor to taste, bottle, and keep 
cool. To use, put 2 tablespoons in | tumbler of water, add a salt- 
spoon of soda, and drink when it effervesces. 

CURRANT SHRUB.— Mash the currants, strain, and to each 
pint of juice add 1 pint sugar, boil 10 minutes, and bottle when cold. 
If used at once it need not be boiled. 

CURRANT WATER.— To 2 cups red currant juice add | cup 
raspberry juice, 2 cups white sugar, and 2 xoints water. 

GRAPE JUICE AND ALMONDS.— Take 6 oz. sweet almonds; 
blanch and pound in a mortar, working in 2 cups grape juice and 1^ 
cups white sugar; then add 1^ quarts water, and when all are dis- 
solved, filter it. Ice when used. 

GRAPE WATER. — Squeeze 4 lbs. grapes through a coarse cloth, 
and add ^ cup of white sugar and 1 pint water to the juice. Serve 
with crushed ice in the glass. 

JELLY BEVERAGES.— Almost any jelly dissolved in ice water 
and sweetened to taste makes a j^leasant drink. Most summer 
drinks are improved by adding a little orange juice. 

KOUMISS. — Take 6 cups sweet milk and 3 tablespoons of sugar; 
add 2 tablespoons of yeast and set in a warm place for a few hours 
until it ferments and the bubbles rise all over the top; then stir well 




566 BEVERAGES 

for 3 minutes, bottle and fasten the corks. Keep cold (on ice is the 
best) and use at once on being opened, as it soon spoils on exposure 
to the air. It can be used in 2 days, but it is better after 1 week. It 
will keep for months if kept cold. 

GINGER BEVERAGE.— To 4 cups water add 1 scant cup vine- 
gar, 3 largo tablespoons sugar, and 2 teaspoons sifted ginger. Use 
lemon instead of vinegar if preferred. (2) Another recipe is 4 cups 
milk, 4 cups water, and 1 tablespoon of ginger. Or (3) take ^ cup 
of vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 2 teaspoons ginger; stir thoroughly together, 
put it in a quart pitcher and fill it with water. 

GiNGEK is the root of a plant deriving its name from the 
mountain Ginger, in Hindoostan, of which it is a native. It 
now comes chiefly from the East and West Indies. It is dug up 
in January or February, scraped, washed, and carefully dried. 
It contains starch, gum, an acid resin which gives its hot taste, 
and a volatile oil which gives its odor. The best comes from 
Jamaica. There are 2 kinds — white and black; white is con- 
sidered superior. It is aromatic, stimulant, and in hot weather 
is valuable as a medicine. It is less heating to the system than 
might be expected from its taste. 

GOOSEBERRY SHRUB.— Take green gooseber- 
ries, pour on boiling water to cover, let stand till cool gingeb. 
with a cloth spread over the jar; strain off the juice, heat it, and 
pour on again; then strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint 
sugar; boil, skim and bottle. 

LEMONADE — Squeeze the juice from lemons, add a little of the 
thin yellow rind, with water, and sugar enough to sweeten to taste. 

Adding ripe strawberries, mashed, is a great improvement to 
lemonade. So also is adding either grated or sliced pineapple. 
Remember in using either lemon or orange jjeel that the thin yellow 
rind (called zest) is all that is used; the white part of the rind is 
bitter and injurious. Boiling water is sometimes poured over the 
thin yellow rind and allowed to stand a while; then the lemon juice, 
water and sugar are added. 

Coffee Lemonade. — Make coffee as for breakfast; when cold, strain 
and use it instead of water in making lemonade. It is healthful and 
refreshing in hot weather. 

Effervescing Lemonade. — Into 2 cups granulated sugar work 30 drops 
of oil of lemon and sift; then sift in 2^ oz. tartaric acid, and 2^ oz. 
carbonate of soda; keep dry in air-tight bottles. To use, stir 2 table- 
spoons into a glass of ice water. 

Invalid's Lemonade. — Into a glass of water put a few drojjs lemon 
extract, and 2 tablespoons of lemon sugar. It can be made when 
lemons are not attainable. .^ 




BEVERAGES 567 

Milk Lemonade. — In 4 cups boiling water dissolve 3 cups white 
sugar; add 3 cups milk and 1 cup lemon juice. 

Portable Lemonade — Mix thoroughly 6 oz. powdered sugar, 1 oz. 
powdered tartaric acid, and 1 drachm essence of lemon; dry thor- 
oughly, divide into 24 parts and wrap each one in paper; each pow- 
der will make a nice glass of lemonade, and can be used at any time. 

Lemon belongs to the citrus family, and is a native to 
the north of India. It was unknown to the ancient Greeks 
and Romans, and was introduced into Europe during the 
crusades. It is now widely naturalized. Its acidity is due 
to the presence of citric and malic aciO in the juice. It also 
contains 3 or ifo of gum and sugar, and some albumenous 
matter, and a little potash and phosphoric acid. Lemons 
with thick rough skins are almost certain to be dry and 
spongy, so choose those with thin, smooth skins. Persons 
of bilious and sanguine temperaments may freely drink the 
lemonade made from its juice, but those with irritable 
stomachs should avoid it on account of its acid and there- 
fore irritating qualities. 

VINEGAR WATER— A little vinegar put ^™^^- 

into cold water, and then sweetened to taste, makes a pleasant bever- 
age in hot weather. It is more refreshing and healthier than to 
drink large quantities of clear water. (It is the presence of the 
citric acid in lemons which, makes lemonade so refreshing and 
healthful, and the acetic acid in vinegar serves much the same 
purpose). 

MEAD. — Take 6 cups sugar, 2 cups molasses, \ lb. tartaric acid; 
pour on 3 pints boiling water, stir till dissolved, let cool, and add 1 
spoonful essence of sassafras, or flavor with fruit juices; then bottle 
for use. To serve, put 2 tablespoons into a tumbler f full of ice 
water, add \ teaspoon of soda, stir it, and drink while foaming. 

OATMEAL DRINK.— (1) Dissolve I cup of oatmeal in a jug of 
water; let settle, and drink cold. (2) Take ^ lb. sugar, ^ a lemon, 
sliced small, and ^ lb. fine oatmeal; mix them with a little warm 
water first, and then pour on 4 quarts boiling water; stir well 
together, let settle, and use cold. Any other flavoring can be used 
instead of the lemon if desired. (3) Mix together gradually, in 4 
quarts of boiling water, ^ lb. sugar, \ lb. fine oatmeal, and 4 oz. cocoa. 
Use when cold. 

About Summer Drinks. — In hot weather there is nothing which quenches the 
thirst better, or which is more healthful and refreshing than oatmeal drinks. If 
laboring men, harvest hands, etc., would use them more it would be a great advan- 
tage to them. For heavv work they are far better than either beor, cider or 
spirits. Boil the oatmeal if possible; if not mix it with cold water. When heavy 
work is to be done without time to stop and eat, make it stronger. It can be used 
cold in summer and hot in winter. Cold cofTee is thirst=quenchmg; so is cold tea, 
but neither equals oatmeal. Cocoa is refreshing and nourishing. 



568 BEVERAGES 

ORANGEADE. — (1) In 1 cup boiling water infuse the thin yel- 
low rind of 2 oranges; then add | cup of sugar and the juice of 6 
oranges; ice before serving. (2) Take 1 lemon and 4 oranges, slice 
crossways, put into an earthen jug, add 4 cups boiling water, and let 
stand 1 hour, covered; then pour ofP, and ice before serving. 

ORG BATE. — Blanch and pound in a mortar | lb. sweet and | oz. 
bitter almonds, working in gradually 2 tablesj^oons of orange flower 
water; then work in ^ pint rose water and 1| cups pure water; strain, 
and add 3 cups simple syrup. Put it in a sauce-pan, boil up 1 min- 
ute, remove at once, and bottle. To use, add 1 tablespoon to a tum- 
bler of ice water, soda, or seltzer water. 

PINEAPPLE BEVERAGE.— Take 1 pineapple, peel, slice, and 
pound to a pulj). Take 2 cups water, add f lb. sugar, boil, skim, and 
l^our it hot on the pineapple pulp; add the juice of a lemon, and let 
stand 2 hours covered; then filter through cloth, and add 2 pints cold 
water. Ice when served. 

PERSIAN BEVERAGE — Take 1 cup rose-water, 4 tablespoons 
of orange flower water, 2 cup)s strawberry juice, and 2 cups simple 
syrujD; mix well together. Ice it when served. 

RASPBERRY ACID — In 4 pints water dissolve 3 oz. tartaric 
acid; X30ur it over 4 quarts raspberries and let stand 24 hours; strain 
without iDressing, and to each pint of juice add 1^ lbs. of sugar; stir 
till it dissolves, let stand 48 hours; bottle and seal. To use, put a 
little into water. 

RASPBERRY WATER — Take 2 cups raspberry juice, 1 cup red 
currant juice, 2 cups sugar, 2 ijints water; mix well. 

RED RASPBERRY SHRUB.— Pickle the raspberries in white 
wine vinegar for 1 week; strain through a jelly bag, and to each pint 
of juice allow 1 pint sugar; boil gently | hour, and bottle. Use 2 or 
3 tablespoons of the shrub to a glass of water. 

Raspberry Shrub No. 2. — On 3 quarts fresh berries pour 4 cups 
cider vinegar; let stand 1 day, strain, and pour the juice on 3 quarts 
fresh berries; let stand 24 hours, strain, and to each pint of juice add 
1 pint sugar; boil gently 10 minutes, skim, 

and bottle when cold. Use 2 or 3 table- 6 y^ 

spoons to a glass of water. 

Strawberry Shrub is made the same way. 

TAMARIND WATER.— Take 2 oz. {\i^ 
tamarinds, 1^ cups raisins, 1 cup sugar '-^ 
(scant); boil them in 1 gallon of water till tamabind. 

it is reduced to 3 quarts; strain and cool. 



\ 



BEVERAGES 569 

STRAWBERRY ACID — In 2 pints water dissolve 2 oz. citric 
acid; pour it on 4 quarts rixDe strawberries, let stand 24 hours; strain 
without pressing, and to each pint of juice add 1^ lbs. sugar; boil 
10 minutes, let stand 3 days, and bottle. To use, put a little into 
water. 

STRAWBERRY WATER.— Take 1 lb. ripe strawberries and 1 
cup sugar; mash them together and add 1 cup cold water. Strain 
and add the juice of 1 lemon. 

TISANE — Take 2 oz. dates, figs or prunes, cut them up, add 5 
cups water and boil 1 hour; strain through cloth and serve ice cold. 
Dilute with cold water if desired. 

TOMATO BEVERAGE.— Steam the tomatoes, mash them, and 
strain through cheese cloth; add -| lb. sugar to each quart of juice 
and let stand 8 or 10 days; then drain the liquor from the settlings, 
bottle, and cork tight. It improves with age. To use, add 1 or 2 
tablespoons to the pint of water, and sweeten to taste. A little lemon 
juice will improve it. 

TUTTI FRUTTI. — Take 1 tablespoon mashed strawberries, 1 
peach, cut fine, 1 tablespoon pineapple, cut fine, the juice of ^ a 
lemon, 1 tablespoon of sugar; mix well, strain through a jelly bag, 
mix with pounded ice and jpour on water. 

CIDER — To improve cider, strain it through flannel while new 
and sweet, and put into each barrel ^ lb. white sugar, and suspend 
a bag of raisins in it. If acidity appears in cider, add a little bak- 
ing soda, which neutralizes the acid, but add it on the first appear- 
ance of acidity. If cider turns black it is caused by the presence of 
oxide of iron which turns dark on exposure to the air; adding a little 
tartaric acid will usually correct it. 

GINGER POP. — Infuse 8 oz. bruised root ginger in 5 gallons 
boiling water; add 4 lbs. sugar, and 2 oz. cream of tartar, and 1 oz. 
tartaric acid; when lukewarm, strain, add 1 quart yeast, and 1 bot- 
tle lemon essence to flavor; let stand over night and bottle. 

LEMON BEER Into 2 gallons of boiling water put 2 lbs. sugar, 

the thin yellow peel of 2 lemons, and 1 oz. bruised ginger; when 
lukewarm add -| pint yeast; let stand over night, or a little longer, to 
ferment, and bottle. 

MILK BEER. — Into 4 cups water put ^ cup of buttermilk and 
3 tablespoons of sugar, and let it stand in a warm place 10 hours; 
then pour from 1 vessel to another until smooth; bottle and let stand 
a day. Serve ice cold. 



570 SYRUPS 

SPRUCE BEER. — Into 4 gallons of water put 3 lbs. sugar, ^ oz. 
essence of spruce, a little zest of lemon, 1 oz. ginger, and ^ pint of 
yeast; let stand 24 hours, and bottle. 



SYRUPS. 

Fruit syrups are made by adding enough sugar to fruit juices 
to preserve them. Fine flavored fruit should be used, because syrup 
of fine flavor cannot be made from fruit lacking flavor. Decayed fruit 
also will affect the flavor of the syrup, and should not be used. If 
fruit juice is allowed to stand 2 or 3 days until fermentation begins, 
it will change the pectose it contains so that it will not jelly, and 
jellying is not desired with fruit syrups. They should be made in 
granite, porcelain or aluminum kettles, as the acids the fruit juices 
contain will act on other metals and change and injure the color of 
the syrups, while in metals like brass, tin, and copper they will also 
develop poisonous compounds. If boiled hard, or heated too hot, it 
will injure the flavor and color of the syrups. A double boiler is the 
best to use to prevent this. Stir syrups with a wooden spoon. 

Fruit syrups can be used when fruits are out of season, and they 
not only make delicious drinks, but they can also be used for pud- 
dings, water ices and ice creams. They are best kept in a dark, dry 
and cool X3lace. 

SIMPLE SYRUP.— Take 2 quarts water and 
7 lbs. white sugar; heat gently until dissolved, 
and strain 

BARBERRY SYRUP.— Take good ripe bar- 
berries, strip them, and put them in a porcelain 
kettle with water enough to cover them; let them 
simmer gently, but do not boil or burn them, and 
when done squeeze out and strain the juice; 
allow 1 quart sugar to 1 pint of juice and set the 
pitcher holding them into a pan of boiling 
water until the sugar is dissolved; then bottle it, 

BLACKBERRY SYRUP.-Take ^ gallon black- 
berry juice, add 4 cups white sugar (heaping), -| oz. each of allspice, 
cinnamon and nutmeg, and { oz, cloves; pulverize the spice, boil all 
for ^ hour, strain, and when cold, bottle and cork closely. 

CHERRY SYRUP.—Bruise 6 lbs. cherries with the stones in 
(breaking them); add 3 cups hot water and boil ^ hour, strain 




SYRUPS 571 

through a jelly bag, add 3 lbs. sugar, and boil until it will sink to 
the bottom of a cup of water when dropped from a spoon ; then turn 
into jelly cups and cover with paper dipped in the white of egg. 
To use for a drink, put a spoonful in a glass of water, let stand 10 
minutes, stir it, and fill with pounded ice if you have it. 

CURRANT SYRUP — Mash the currants, cover them over, and 

let them stand 3 or 4 days to ferment; then strain through a jelly 
bag, and allow 2 lbs. sugar to each pint of 
juice; dissolve the sugar slowly (in a fa- ^C%:^v- .<fk 

rina^boiler is best, as there is no danger ' j 

of its burning), and then let it become , ^ 

cold, put it in small bottles, filling them ' -^J^J.^-^ _ 

full, seal tightly and put away, ^X ij^ , T^; -., 

Raspberry Syrup can be made the same ^L vB^^ ^^^ 

way. w^C;r-^ 

The Raspbebey in some form is found .c^^fefet. 

throughout Europe and America. There are 2 ^^^^^ 

kinds — the red and white, the former being most ^^flSr^fflf 

common. The juice is very wholesome and valu- iiASPBEBKY. 
able to people of a nervous or bilious tempera- 
ment. 

LEMON SYRUP — In a porcelain pan dissolve 2 lbs. white 
sugar and 2 cups cold water, and let it boil 2 minutes; then add the 
juice of 4 lemons, and \ oz. tartaric acid; after it has cooled a little 
add \ teaspoon lemon essence. When quite cold, bottle it. 

Lemon Syrup No. 2.— Rub the yellow rind of 6 lemons with 1 lb. 
lump sugar; moisten the sugar with as much water as it will absorb, 
and boil it to a clear syrup; to this (without letting it boil any more) 
add the juice of 1 doz. lemons, stirring it beside the fire; bottle at 
once, and cork when cold. 

Lemon Syrup No. 3. — Mix 4 cups water and 2 lbs. sugar, and boil 
till clear; when cool, add 1 teaspoon essence of lemon and 1 oz. cit- 
ric acid, and bottle when cold. 

ORANGE SYRUP. — Select fine, ripe oranges, extract the juice, 
and to each pint add 1 pint sugar; boil gently 10 minutes, skim, 
and bottle when cold. An excellent flavor for sauces, as well as a 
delightful drink. 

ROSE SYRUP.— Take \ lb. rose leaves, pour on 1 pint of hoil- 
ing water and let stand till next day; strain through muslin add 2 
lbs. sugar, and heat in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved; let 
it cool, and bottle when cold. 



572 



SYRUPS 




SARSAPAEILLA. 



For Violet Syrup use violets in like manner, but do not allow the 
calyx or stalks to be mixed with the leaves. 

SARSAPARILLA SYRUP — Into 5 
quarts of water put ^ lb. Spanish sarsapa- 
rilla, and boil until it is reduced to 2 
quarts; add 2^ oz. tartaric acid and 4 lbs. 
sugar; mix, boil 3 minutes and bottle. To 
use, put 2 tablespoons in a glass of water, 
add a little soda, and drink when it effer- 
vesces. 

Sabsapaeilla is a native of Central America. 
Tliere are several varieties. The roots appear in 
bundles 12 to 18 inches long, and 4 or 5 in breadth. 
Tire taste when chewed is bitter and even acid. It 
has been used as a remedy in a great variety 

of diseases and in certain broken down conditions of health it appears to do much 
good. 

STRAWBERRY SYRUP.— Wash the strawberries, and strain 
through a jelly bag; prepare a syruj) and bring it to the " soft ball 
degree " as directed in " Candy Making," and to each pint of the 
syrup add 1 pint of the strawberry juice; bring it to a boil, skim, and 
remove from the fire. Bottle and seal when cold. 

Pineapple Syrup can be jDrepared by gradually adding strained 
pineapple juice to the syrup, instead of the strawberry juice, and 
finishing the same way. 

TOMATO SYRUP — Take good ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the 
juice, and to each pint of juice add ^ lb. sugar; bottle and set away. 
No alcohol is needed to preserve it. It will keep for years, makes 
a delightful beverage for the sick, and will resemble pure wine in 
flavor. 

VANILLA SYRUP — Take 2 quarts of simple syrup, into some 
of it rub ^ oz. citric acid, add ^ oz. fluid extract of vanilla, and mix 
all; then bottle. 

WINTERQREEN SYRUP.— To 2| quarts of simple syrup 
add 25 drops oil of wintergreen, and burnt sugar enough to color it. 

ARTIFICIAL HONEY.— (1) Take 10 lbs. good brown sugar, 
add 4 lbs. water and gradually bring it to a boil, skimming it well. 
When it has become cooled, add 2 lbs. bee's honey and 8 drops 
of peppermint. A better article can be made with white sugar in- 
stead of brown, with 1 lb. less of water and 1 lb. more of sugar. 




INVALID COOKERY. 

HILE in robust health the appetite is ^undoubtedly an ad. 
,^5/^ mirable guide in the choice of foods, but when debility 
and disease are present, intelligent knowledge of the 
properties of different foods is necessary, and experience 
should guide in administering them. Ignorance in a sickroom is 
most deplorable, even when accompanied by the utmost family 
afPection. In many disorders a knowledge of dietetics is as impor- 
tant as a knowledge of materia medica, for the action of a medicine 
may be counteracted by unsuitable diet. When a patient is very 
sick the diet is prescribed by the doctor, and his directions in regard 
to the foods to be given should be carried out quite as implicitly as 
they are in giving the medicine, for they are usually quite as im- 
portant. Many persons have a superstitious faith in the cravings of 
the sick and will disobey the doctor to gratify the patient, but this is 
very unwise, as in disease the appetite is not a safe guide, and many 
a patient has been seriously injured or even killed by such folly. In 
some cases, (notably after fever) the patient develops a surprising 
appetite which, in the ^tate of his digestive organs, it would be dan- 
gerous to gratify. Other patients will actually sink from exhaustion 
while refusing all food. Still, if a desire for any particular article is 
expressed it would be well to call the doctor's attention to it, as it 
may be a valuable indication of the needs of the system. 

In general it may be said that in feeding the sick 2 objects are 
kept in view : ( 1 ) to choose the food which will give least work to 
the part of the digestive canal which is most deranged; (2) to com- 
pensate for the waste or drain upon the system. The doctor should 
thoroughly understand the process of digestion, the needs of the sys- 
tem and the composition of foods, and be able to make the selection 
of foods more skilfully than an untrained person. It is sometimes 
thought that when a person is ill he should be coaxed or coerced into 
taking as much food as possible, but it should be remembered that it 
is only the food which is assimilated by the system which is of any 
real benefit to the patient, and to overload the feeble digestive or- 
gans, will impose a burden that will be a positive detriment; there- 
fore in case of serious illness, get directions from the doctor regard- 
ing the quantity as well as kind of food to be given. The prepara- 
tion and cooking of food should be thoroughly understood by a good 

573 



574 INVALID COOKERY 

nurse, so that should any dish be sent from the kitchen imperfectly 
prepared, directions can be given how this can be remedied. 

The conditions of different patients vary so greatly (one may be 
suffering from an acute disease like a fever, while another has some 
lingering chronic disease; one may be suffering from over^work and 
nervous prostration, while another suffers from a lack of exercise, 
and so on) that it is evident that no exact rules can be given which 
will apply to all cases, but the following hints in regard to sickroom 
feeding may be suggestive to our readers. 

(1) Give little food and often. What is eaten with a relish 
does more good than twice as much swallowed with disgust, so do 
not urge a patient to swallow large quantities at once; but remember 
also that very sick people often refuse to swallow anything, though 
they may be actually sinking for want of food. 

(2) Let the food come at stated times and punctually. A con- 
valescent looks forward to meals as the great events of the day, and 
frets and worries if they do not come on time, and a very weak 
patient may faint and flag if instead of an hour it is 20 or 30 minutes 
longer than that, between the times of feeding. If obliged to wait 
long, a i3atient may lose the desire to eat, and turn against the food 
when brought. 

(3) As a rule, patients should not be awakened to be fed, 
though it may sometimes be necessary to do so. Amateur nurses 
often forget to feed patients in the small hours of the morning, al- 
though at that time the patient's strength is at the lowest ebb. 

(4) When there is no appetite, give such food as affords the 
most nourishment for the least work to the system. When very 
weak, the exertion of eating is quite a tax, so put the greatest 
amount of nourishment in the least space. 

(5) Endeavor to give the food most appreciated by the patient, 
provided it is not injurious. Do not let a convalescent know before 
hand what the bill of fare will be, as surprises are often very pleasing 
to him. 

(6) For a convalescent the food should be as varied as possi- 
ble, for invalids easily tire of the same thing. If the food may not 
be varied the mode of serving it may, and a stray flower or a new 
plate is better than no variety at all. 

(7) For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as 
they seldom require much at a time. Only as much as the patient is 
likely to eat should be taken into the sickroom, and at once remove 
what remains. Never leave food at the bed side or about a sickroom; 
if the patient cannot eat it, take it away and bring it again in 1 or 2 



INVALID COOKERY 575 

hours. As a rule nothing made for an invalid is fit to be used a day 
after it has been prepared, and neither food nor drink, except in 
cases of absolute necessity, should be kej^t in the invalid's room, as 
the air and temperature are apt to hasten decomposition. 

(8) In case of infectious fevers all remains of food should at 
once be burned, and on no account be eaten by another person. The 
nurse should not eat in the sickroom. 

(9) Have every thing tempting in appearance and daintily 
served. See that the linen is spotless, and the prettiest china used 
to hold the sick one's food. Never give an invalid soiled or crumpled 
napkins. 

(10) Do not put a very little broth in a very large basin. If a 
limited amount of drink is to be given it is better to put the right 
amount in a small glass than to hand a large glass full, and tell him 
how many swallows to take. Gruel served in a tumbler is more ap- 
petizing than when served in a basin or cup and saucer. It is better 
not to have a cup more than f full, and then it will be less likely to 
spill over. Never have anything spilled into the saucer on handing 
an invalid a cup and saucer. Little things like these tell on the sen- 
sitive nerves of an invalid more than many people think. 

(11) Sponge the hands and face of an invalid carefully before 
serving any meal. 

(12) If a feeding cup is used, scald it carefully and keej) it 
quite clean; warm it before using it for hot food. Keep one for milk, 
and lay that in water; have a separate cup for beef tea and broth. 

When much fever is present very little gastric juice is secreted, 
and therefore at the commencement of a fever there is little craving 
for anything but cold water. All nourishment given in high fever 
should be in fluid form, and it is very doubtful if starch can then be 
converted into sugar. 

Lemonade is agreeable as the acid taste pleases the patient's 
palate, and the sugar passes into the system without digestion or 
making any demands on the powers of the stomach, and various 
other drinks can be given. As the fever subsides the gastric and 
intestinal juices are sufficiently secreted to digest farinaceous foods, 
and the medical man can decide in each case what articles are most 
suitable. By degrees the patient is able to satisfy his natural ap- 
petite, convalescence becomes more rapid, and bynindby steaks and 
other food can be eaten again. This would be dietetic regimen. 

The following quotation from Dr. Pavy's " Treatise on Food and 
Dietetics," will be of interest and value. Regarding the foods which 
may be given jjatients as convalescence advances, he says: " In feb- 



576 INVALID COOKERY 

rile, acute, inflammatory, and other conditions where an absence of 
digestive power prevails the food should be confined to such ar- 
ticles as beef tea, mutton, veal or chicken broth, whey, calf's foot, and 
other kinds of jelly, arrowroot, and such like farinaceous articles, 
barley water, rice, mucilage, gum water, fruit jelly, and the juice of 

fruits, as lemons, oranges, etc., made into drinks Where a little 

latitude is allowable, the employment of milk and eggs in a fluid 
form may be sanctioned. Bread jelly, which is made by steeping 
bread in boiling water and passing it through a sieve while still hot, 
is also an article that may be used either alone or boiled with milk. 
From this, as circumstances permit, an advance may be made to sub- 
stances which do not throw much work on the stomach, such as rice, 
sago, tapioca, bread and custard puddings, and stale bread and toast 

sopped. Next may be allowed fish which should be boiled or 

broiled, and not fried. As power becomes restored, calves' feet, 
chicken, game and butcher's meat — mutton to begin with — may be 
permitted to follow," and so on till ordinary diet is reached. The 
object is to convey fuel foods (carbohydrates) to the system, and 
only enough albumenoids (flesh formers) for repairing the tissues. 
Later, an abundance of albumenoids will be needed to rebuild the 
wasted tissues. 

In cases of fever, pure milk as the main article of diet is superior to 
anything else, especially in fevers which cause disturbance of the 
stomach and bowels. Beef tea, which is commonly used, is often 
irritating; but milk is soothing, cooling, and at the same time 
nourishing. A patient who can take milk has a greater chance of 
recovery. With some persons it does not agree, either in sickness or 
health. Mixing ^ to ^ its quantity of lime water with it will help it 
with some. Soda water and milk, or seltzer water and milk, agree 
with some. Boiled milk is more digestible with some, especially hot 
boiled milk. Only in rare cases should the cream be removed. 
The slightest souring is sufiicient to make milk disagree with a 
patient. In the early stages of convalescence, hot milk, given often 
in small quantities, with a little toasted bread, or thin gruel added, 
is often excellent. 

In chronic disorders of the stomach and bowels a milk diet is most val- 
uable. It allows the stomach to have almost absolute rest, which is 
often all that is required. As it is already prepared for absorption 
into the system it, in fact, requires no digestion. When milk is con- 
stipating, a little salt sprinkled in each glassful will obviate the diffi- 
culty. When it has an opposite effect, a few drojDS of brandy in each 
tumbler of milk will prevent purgation. If diluted with ^ lime water 



INVALID COOKERY 577 

it will rarely cause biliousness or indigestion. The idea that milk 
should not be eaten with pickles is a mistake, as it is curdled by the 
gastric juice as soon as swallowed, but it is better to be sipped in 
small quantities than taken in large amounts at one time if acids 
accompany it, 

Cream can often be taken freely when nothing else will remain 
on the stomach. It should always be fresh, and may be diluted with 
water or given pure. In many chronic diseases it is irreiDlaceable by 
any other article whatever. With many people it is easier of diges- 
tion than milk, and it seldom disagrees. 

Buttermilk is often very useful. It is almost always allowable in 
sickness, especially in fevers with gastric symtoms. 

Whey is often found useful when every preparation of fresh milk 
disagrees. It is not very nourishing, but is digestible, and is a 
refreshing drink in inflammatory disorders. It is rich in organic 
salts. 

The fats for the system are best obtained by using cream, or butter 
which is next best, rather than fatty meats. Do not have the butter 
made into a sauce, nor melted and soaked into food. When exposed 
to heat (as for buttered toast) it is very likely to disagree with dys- 
peptics and other invalids. All decomposing fats, as a rule, disagree 
with the stomach. The value of cod liver oil in many diseases con- 
sists in the fact that it is the most easily digested of fats, not even 
excepting cream. 

Eggs are nutritious and easily digested when raw or lightly cook- 
ed; they are more digestible if beaten to a froth. Do not submit 
them to a high temperature in cooking, for, as we explain elsewhere, 
that will make them tough and indigestible. The white is least 
likely to disagree with a bilious patient. Use only fresh eggs for 
invalids. Eggs boiled 20 minutes are more digestible than when 
boiled 10; boiled 10 minutes, they become tough and horny, but 
become mealy and dry when cooked 20 minutes, and crumble up 
readily so that they are easily acted on by the gastric juices. Eggs 
in the tough and horny state are insoluble, and pieces often stay in 
the digestive tract till they decompose, when they emit ammonia and 
sulphuretted hydrogen which are injurious to the system. 

Beef Tea is not a nourishing food, although it used to be so con- 
sidered, and it is now known to have more value as a stimulant than 
as food, properly speaking, and yet many persons place their main 
reliance on it, and think the more a patient swallows the sooner he 
will recover. It should be combined with other foods, or given alter- 
nately when possible, and when containing farinaceous foods it is 

37 



578 INVALID COOKERY 

useful. If well made, it is a pleasant and refreshing beverage. A 
healthy man would starve on beef tea alone, and so would an invalid. 

Broth made from chicken is more nutritious than that made from 
either beef or mutton, and the sick often find it very useful. The 
meat extracts, (Liebig's and others) are made by boiling lean meat 
in water, and then taking out the insoluble parts and evaporating it 
down. As some of the most nutritious parts of the meat are insol- 
uble in water the extracts contain comparatively little nourishment. 
Their principal value is as stimulants, and they often imf)rove the 
appetite so that more nutritious foods are craved and digested. 
Other food, therefore, should be given with them. A German took 2 
dogs and gave one meat extract and the other water, and nothing 
else. The one given the extract lost flesh faster and died before the 
one having only water. 

Jelly, Gelatine and Isinglass have excited much discussion. Alone 
they are of little value, and it is a mistake to place much reliance on 
them for nourishment. (See our remarks on this subject under the 
head of " Gelatine Preparations.") 

Toast is valuable for invalids because by toasting part of the 
starch is. turned into dextrin, which is easily digested. Cut the 
bread thin, hold it a little ways from the fire to dry, then hold it 
closer till it browns. Serve it dry, or buttered lightly, or with hot 
water or milk poured on it. 

Flour, Rice, Barley and Oats are preferable to arrowroot, sago, tapi- 
oca, etc., for nourishment, if suitably prepared. Browned flour we 
mention elsewhere. Rice is valuable for invalids, as it taxes the 
digestive powers very little. It can be roasted like coffee; then cook 
it in the usual way, and serve it with cream. Barley for invalids 
should be thoroughly cooked. Use oatmeal cautiously until the 
digestive powers become strong. Cornmeal because of its fat is val- 
uable for thin, chilly invalids, but cook it ihoroughhj. Macaroni is 
nutritious and easily digested. 

Fine Flour Bread is indigestible because it does not readily sepa- 
rate into particles in the stomach, so as to be readily attacked by the 
digestive fluids. A little fine Indian meal added to fine flour bread 
will obviate this difficulty and cause it to separate quickly. Corn- 
meal is also loosening in its effects upon the digestive organs, there- 
fore in a relaxed condition of the bowels cornmeal should be avoided. 
Maliine, taken with fine flour bread or biscuit, will assist digestion. 
Thorough mastication must be insisted on, for that is the first pro- 
cess of the thorough digestion of all starch foods in which fine flour 
is used. 




INVALID COOKERY 579 

Tea, Coffee and Cocoa.— Tea is often misused 
for invalids. A little tea or coffee restores them 
quite as much as a great deal. As a rule, do not 
give either after five o'clock in the afternoon. 
Sleeplessness in the early night is generally from 
excitement, and is increased by tea or coffee; in 
the early morning it comes from exhaustion, and 
is relieved by tea. In general, the dry and coated 
tongue prefers tea to coffee. Coffee is a better 
restorative than tea. Cocoa is often recommended bbanch of cuoco- 
instead of tea or coffee, but it has a very different i-at^ tkee. 

effect. It is a food rather than a beverage, owing to its fatty charac- 
ter, and for invalids it has no restorative or stimulating effect, and its 
fat is often ojipressive to a weak stomach. 

Vegetables. — If an invalid is allowed to eat vegetables, be careful 
to choose only such as are young and tender, perfectly fresh, and 
sufficiently cooked; never send them up half done. All of the 
cabbage tribe are unsuitable, as they are likely to produce flatulence, 
and all the pulses are difficult of digestion. A mealy old potato is 
more digestible than a new one. The best way to use it is to boil, 
remove the inside, mash thoroughly, and use a little salt and cream to 
season it. 

The juice of fruits can be used early in convalescence for preparing 
drinks for an invalid, but do not use the pulp. When fruits can be 
used again a baked apple can first be safely eaten. 

The appetite may be unimpaired or even greatly increased in 
many chronic diseases, like dyspepsia, etc., and in these cases there 
will be danger of yielding to the claims of appetite and overstepping 
the bounds of prudence, so that an undue amount or an unsuitable 
food may be eaten, for which reason it is of great importance for 
such persons to X3ay attention to some suitable rules for the diet. 

People who are subject to gout and biliousness should remember that 
"bile poison" and "gout poison" are of albumenoid descent, and 
that they follow a diet too rich in albumenoids like the avenging 
fates. The system requires for the growth and repair of its tissues a 
certain amount of albumenoids, but when an excess is eaten the sur- 
plus is imperfectly oxydized and the blood becomes laden with 
waste, and the result is biliousness or gout. People with a tendency 
to these diseases should eat very sparingly of albumenoid foods like 
meat, eggs, beans, cheese, etc. 

People with a tendency to consumption should eat nutritious and eas- 
ily digested foods, and plenty of fats in their most easily digested 



580 INVALID COOKEKY 

form, such as cream, good butter, oil and salads, oatmeal, cornmeal, 
etc., rather than in the indigestible form they assume when mixed 
with starch. 

Diet. — Every year diet plays a larger part in the skille<.l treatment 
of disease; it is harmless where drugs are dangerous, and it can often 
cure where drugs are useless or worse. There are many diseases 
where the only hope of cure or alleviation lies in rigid abstinence 
from certain kinds of food, and in many common ailments some 
slight change in diet is by far the best remedy. 

A deficiency of oil or fat in the diet develops scrofulous diseases, and 
yet we often hear, when fat meats, cream, butter, etc., are suggested 
for scrofulous children "O, that will feed the disease," when that is 
likely to be the one thing that would most assist a cure. Fat is heat 
giving, and is naturally craved by most delicate children. The fol- 
lowing is about the proportion of fat in the different grains: Rice 1; 
Rye 1.75; Wheat 2.10; Oats 3.30; Indian Corn 5 (the amount of oil 
varies in difPerent varieties of corn, the northern yellow containing 
much more than the southern white). Oatmeal porridge and milk 
have, with intelligent people, long been regarded as the best food for 
the nursery. It owes its chief value for that j)urpose to its large 
amount of fat, but with many children it does not agree, and corn- 
meal porridge possessing so much fat can often be used in its place 
to advantage. Thoroughly cook it always, as it is only indigestible 
when improperly prepared. The dietary for children from 2-| to 7 
years of age, which has been settled by long experiment in various 
children's hospitals is as follows: At least 12 ounces of bread daily; 
1 oz. butter; ^ pint of milk; 2 oz. meat; 6 oz. vegetables; 6 oz. gruel 
or porridge. Rapidly growing children require an abundance of 
meat (or albumenoids) to build up the rapidly growing system. 

Lime. — In parts of the country where lime does not exist in the 
soil, so that the water is deficient in lime, use -| pint of lime water 
with the mixing for bread every time bread is made. In this way 
children will get the lime which is necessary for the proper solidi- 
fying of the bones, and the preservation of the teeth. We explain 
elsewhere how to make lime water. 

When a patient suffers from sickness and nausea every food should be 
given iced, or as cold as possible, and in the smallest quantities, and 
it will be a good plan to slip a little piece of ice into the patient's 
mouth immediately after giving the food. 

Ice for the sickroom can be nicely kept through the night by ty- 
ing a piece of strainer cloth over a large iDitcher, with a piece of 
twine around it, leaving a sag in the center on which may be placed 



INVALID COOKEKY 581 

1 or 2 pounds of ice — enough to serve the invalid through the night. 
Fold np the corners of the cloth over the ice, and cover it again with 
a square of canton flannel, folded 4 double. When a bit of ice is 
needed have at hand a large darning needle and thimble; press stead- 
ily on a corner of the ice with the needle, and flake off pieces as 
needed. The water in the bottom of the pitcher can be poured 
through the strainer without disturbing the ice which is covered with 
the corners of the strainer. 

Fat may be removed from beef tea or broth by letting it get cold, 
when it can all be taken off; or, if in haste, by drawing a piece of 
blotting paper edgeways over the surface, and it will take up the 
fatty particles. In some cases a little fat will be beneficial; in others 
it is better to remove it all. 

MILK SOUP.— Use 1 quart of new milk, 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 
saltspoon of powdered cinnamon, 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar; 
scald all together for an hour in a pitcher set in a kettle of water; 
then add the welhbeaten yolks of 2 eggs. Good for delicate persons 
and children. 

MUTTON BROTH.— Boil slowly about 2 lbs. of lean mutton for 

2 hours; skim it carefully; do not put in too much salt — more can be 
added if needed; a little barley or rice may be added; strain, and take 
off all fat with blotting paper drawn across it. 

CHICKEN BROTH.— Put half the chicken into a small stew=pan 
with a teaspoon of rice, a little pepper and salt. Cover with cold 
water and boil slowly until the meat falls from the bones; then take 
out the chicken, leave the rice in, and serve. Very nutritious. 

ESSENCE OF MEAT.— Take 1 pound of good lean beef (have 
it free from fat and skin), chop it into small jjieces, and put it into a 
glass fruit jar adding 1 tablespoon of water, and screw on the cover; 
set it in cold water, heat gradually to 150° to 160° (don't let it boil), 
and keep it there 2 hours; the water in the outside kettle must not 
get into the fruit jar; remove all fat with a piece of clean blotting pa- 
per, and add salt and pepper to taste. Chicken or any other meat 
can be treated the same way. The pure essence of meat, thus ex- 
tracted, will be received by the most delicate stomach, and is also 
valuable where considerable nutriment is required in a concentrated 
form. A single tablespoon can be taken by an invalid, and would 
afford as much sustenance as ^ pint of broth. It becoihes a jelly 
when cold, and may in this way be eaten with chicken or game. 



582 INVALID COOKERY 

STEWED BEEF ESSENCE.— Cut i lb. of beef into bits, salt it, 
and in a few minutes, squeeze it, let it stand ^ hour, heat hot, but do 
not boil it, and serve at once. 

BROILED BEEF JUICE.— Broil ^ lb. of round steak 1 or 2 min- 
utes on each side, cut in bits, squeeze out the juice, salt and serve. 

BROILED STEAK — Wipe the steak with a clean, wet cloth, 
take a piece of the fat to grease the gridiron, broil over a bright fire 
4 or 5 minutes, turn often, put on a hot plate, season with salt, pep- 
per and a little butter. 

TOASTED MUTTON — Cut very thin slices from loin of mutton, 
with a sharp knife. Lay each slice on a toasting fork, and toast over 
a clear hot fire. Sprinkle with a little pepper and salt. It may be 
eaten with a thin piece of toast. 

MEAT PATTY. — Scrape a piece of lean beef=steak with a very 
dull knife, holding it with the left hand, and scraping from you with 
the right. This removes the tender meat fiber and leaves the tough 
connective tissue. Press the former into a thin cake or patty, and 
broil on a toasting fork over a very hot fire. When done, season to 
taste. Eaten with toast or thin cut bread and butter it makes a very 
delicate dish. The cake or patty, prepared as above, may also be 
fried in a little butter, and will be found very nutritious, and a weak 
stomach will retain it. 

RAW BEEF SANDWICHES.— Scrape fine 2 or 3 tablespoons of 
raw, juicy, tender beef, season slightly with salt and pepper, spread 
on thin slices of bread, and put it in a toaster and toast slightly. 

COOKING EGGS FOR INVALIDS.— Put 3 cups of boiling water 
into a skillet and add a cup of sweet milk and a little salt. Have it 
boiling hot, then break the eggs in, and cover and set back where 
they will not boil. Let the eggs remain in until they cook white on 
top, but not hard. 

STEAMED EGGS. — Put 1 or 2 tablespoons of new milk in plain 
patty tins, and break fresh eggs into them; add a little salt and put 
into the steamer and steam until white, over the yolks, but not long 
enough to harden them. Eggs thus prepared are very nice and look 
very inviting. 

BEEF TEA. — Mince a pound of tender beef, free from fat, and 
put it into a covered crockery jar; pour on barely enough cold water 
to cover the meat, and allow it to soak 2 or 3 hours; then place it 
on the stove or in a moderate oven, and let it simmer (donH let it 



INVALID COOKERY 583 

boil — it should not go above 160°) for 2 or 3 hours longer, adding a 
little water from time to time as it evaporates; strain and season to 
taste. To make it more nourishing a little arrowroot, rice or barley 
may be added. 

Mutton or Veal may be treated the same way. 

If beef tea must be had quickly broil a thick piece of steak, turning 
it often, to keep in the juices, as explained elsewhere for broiling; 
then cut it into small pieces, and press it in a lemon squeezer. 

Prof. Liebig's Beef Tea. — A saltspoon of the extract (Liebig's) is 
stirred in a cup of boiling water. Add salt and pepper as desired. 
If too much of the extract is used, which is a common mistake, the 
drink has a bitter taste. Dry toast eaten with it makes a palatable 
dish. 

BROILED BEEF TEA — Broil ^ lb. of lean, juicy beef 1 minute 
on each side, cut in small pieces, pour over it ^ cup of boiling water, 
squeeze it, salt the juice and serve instantly. Do not heat it again. 

STEWED BEEF TEA — Use | lb. of round steak, cut fine, soak 
it in 1 cup of water -| hour, let it heat (not boil), strain, salt and 
serve. (In making beef tea it is well to know that 1 lb. of the round 
will yield 4 oz. of beef extract, and contains more nutriment and is 
much cheaper than extract bought ready prepared. ) 

APPLE WATER — Cut 3 or 4 apples in slices, pour boiling 
water over, allow to stand 2 or 3 hours, strain, and sweeten slightly. 
This is a very refreshing drin 

BARLEY WATER.— To 1 cup of barley (first washed) add 1 
quart of water. Allow to simmer until J has boiled away. Strain, 
and to this add a tablespoon of sugar dissolved in 1 cup of hot water- 
This is an excellent drink in febrile affections; also it is very refresh- 
ing and somewhat nourishing. To make a mild laxative drink, for 
children, add to the barley 8 or 10 figs cut in pieces. It is a delight- 
ful drink, and quite laxative. 

RICE WATER.— Wash 2 oz. of rice; boil 1 hour in 2 quarts of 
water; strain, and sweeten; flavor with nutmeg. It is a very pleasant 
drink and efiicacious in the bowel troubles of children. 

TOAST WATER.— Cut 4 slices of bread thin; toast to near 
burning. Pour over them 1 quart of boiling water and allow to cool, 
and strain. It may be flavored with a little lemon juice. This is a 
most wholesome and refreshing drink. 

HOT LEMONADE. — Peel the yellow rind off 1 lemon, squeeze, 
and add a glass of boiling water; sweeten with crushed sugar. This 



584 INVALID COOKERY 

is an excellent drink in the feverish condition of colds. It will 
quickly induce perspiration. 

EGG AND LEMON JUICE.— Dissolve 1 oz. sugar in 1 pint of 
water, and stir in the juice of 1 lemon; add the white of 1 egg and 
froth up. Ice it if desired. 

EGG DRINK — Use 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teacup milk. 
Beat the egg well in a cup with the sugar, put the milk on to boil, 
and when it boils pour it over the egg, beating with a fork all the 
time. It is refreshing and invigorating. 

EGG AND LIME WATER/— To a wine glass of lime water add 
the white of 1 egg beaten so it will not string. Give it in small 
quantity and often. It is excellent in obstinate vomiting and irrita- 
tion of the stomach. 

LIME WATER — Put 2 teaspoons of lime water in | tumbler of 
milk; add a little sugar to taste. This will often be retained when 
the stomach rejects all other kinds of food. The same may be said 
of milk and soda water in equal proportions. We explain elsewhere 
how to make lime water. 

FLAXSEED TEA — To 1 cup water allow 1 tablespoon flaxseed; 
pour on the water boiling hot, boil 5 minutes and strain. Sweeten 
with sugar, and for flavor add a little lemon or orange juice. 

LINSEED TEA — Boil 2 tablesjDoons of the unground linseed in 
3 pints of water untd reduced to a quart; strain, and add lemon juice 
to relieve the flat taste. A very useful drink in colds and coughs. 
It is also good in affections of the urinary organs. 

LICORICE TEA. — Take 2 oz. each of licorice and marshmallow 
root; boil m 3 pints of water down to a quart. Allow it to stand to 
settle; then strain through muslin. It is a very desirable drink in 
colds, etc. 

SLIPPERY ELM TEA — Boil 1 oz. in a quart of water until i 
boiled away. Pour off, and flavor with lemon juice if desirH 
Useful in the same cases as the former. 

RENNET WHEY — Infuse a piece of the rennet in a little boil- 
ing water, as for making cheese; let it remain 1 or 2 hours; put a 
tablespoon of this fluid into 3 pints of new milk, just warmed (not 
hot). Cover it with a cloth and let stand siill until the curd is form- 
ed thick on the top; press out, and use the whey. 

WINE WHEY.— Add to a pint of milk, brought to the boiling 
point, sufficient madeira or sherry wine to coagulate it. Strain, 
sweeten or flavor to the t,a»t^ 



INVALID COOKEKY 



585 



RICE AND MILK.— Wash 3 tablespoons of rice; put in a saucer 
ipan with a pint of milk; allow to simmer until rice is soft, stirring 
from time to time to prevent burning; sweeten and flavor to taste. 
This is a nice dish for children, especially when troubled with sum- 
mer complaint. 

Tapioca, Macaroni, Vermicelli etc., may be treated in the same way. 
They make very palatable dishes. 

SWISS CREAM. — Boil a pint of cream or milk with a little cin- 
namon or lemon peel; rub a teaspoon of flour in a small c^uantity of 
milk, and add it to the rest, stirring it on the fire. 

ASSES' MILK — This is much like human milk in consistency, 
but contains a little less cream and more soft caseous matter. It 
is often used by persons afilicted with lung affections, and is consider- 
ed very strengthening. 

Artiiicial asses' milk may be made by dissolving 2 oz. of sugar 
of milk in 1 pint of warm, skimmed, cow's milk. Another recipe for 
artificial asses' milk is ^ oz. of gelatine dissolved in a quart of hot 
barley water, then add 1 oz. of refined sugar, and then 1 pint of new 
cow's milk and beat all together. 

ARROWROOT. — Mix 2 

teaspoons of arrowroot with 1 
tablespoon of cold water, then 
add I pint of boiling milk and 
boil 10 minutes. Sweeten to 
taste and add nutmeg or pow- 
dered cinnamon. It is light 
and agreeable for a delicate 
stomach. 

Aeeowkoot. — This is a species 
of starch obtained from the roots of 
a variety of plants cultivated chiefly 
in the West Indies. The origin of 
the name is said to be the use by the 
Indians of the fresh roots to cure the abboweoot. 

wounds caused by poisoned arrows. 

Any kind of starch to be difjestible 
should boil 10 to 20 minutes. It is not enough to cook it until it swells, but it 
must be cooked until the starch granules burst their sheaths. Starch preparations 
are often cooked too little. 

GOAT'S MILK. — This is considered very good for invalids in 
some conditions. It resembles cow's milk, but the butter contained 
in it is harder than that of the cow. 

Artificial goat's milk is made by taking a piece of fresh calf's 
suet the size of an egg, tying it in a cloth, scalding it in a quart of 




686^ INVALID COOKITRT 

new milk, and adding a level tablespoon of granulated sugar. The 
suet must be cut finely, or chopped, and tied loosely in a thin piece 
of muslin or lace. This is excellent for scrofulous children, and any 
person suffering from affections of the lungs. 

FRANQIPANE — This is a preparation for invalids made by 
evaporating to a thick consistency (in a double boiler) milk mixed 
with blanched and pounded sweet almonds, and a little sugar. 

SUET AND MILK — To 1 pint of new milk add 1 cup of scraped 

veal suet and a teaspoon of sugar. Scald together for an hour, then 
strain, and add a little flavoring if liked. This is a nourishing drink 
for an invalid or delicate child. 

MILK OR CREAM TOAST.— Toast a slice of bread uniformly 
brown. Break the crust by rolling, and add sufficient hot milk or 
cream to thoroughly soak it. Sweeten with powdered gugar. 

SIPPETS. — When the stomach cannot bear meat, toast some 
slices of bread, lay them on a hot plate, and pour hot meat gravy 
over them; add salt to taste. 

BOILED OR BAKED FLOUR.— Tie some flour in a cloth as if 
it were a jjudding, put it in boiling water and boil for 3 hours; then 
scrape down the inner part of the ball, and use a tablespoon in a pint 
of milk to make a gruel. Or put the flour on a tin in the oven and 
bake it till it is a light brown; then use as before. Both these prep- 
arations are more digestible than uncooked flour. 

GRUELS Corn=starch, Rice, Wheat Flour or Arrowroot. — Wet 2 

teaspoons of the flour in cold water or milk, stir it into 1 cup of 
boiling water, add 1 saltspoon of salt, boil 10 to 15 minutes; thin it 
with ^ cup of milk. 

Barley Gruel.— Wash ^ cup of pearl barley and boil it in 1 pint of 
water for 20 minutes; pour off this water and add 1 quart of fresh 
boiling water; let it boil until reduced ^; strain, and add the rind of 
a lemon and sweeten to taste. 

Codfish Gruel — Freshen a tablespoon of shredded codfish to taste; 
add to it 1 teaspoon sifted flour, and 1 cup of boiling water — allow- 
ing it to simmer long enough to thoroughly cook the flour; add a 
very little butter, and eat with toasted cracker. 

Cornmeal or Oatmeal Gruel — Mix ^ cup of the meal with a little 
cold water; then add a pint of boiling water, a teaspoon of salt, and 
boil 25 or 30 minutes. Sweeten to taste, and add a little nutmeg. 
This makes a nice light nourishment for the sick or convalescent. 

Cracker Gruel — To 4 tablespoons of powdered cracker, wet with 
boiling water, add 2 cups of hot milk. 




INVALID COOKEEY 587 

Egg Gruel. — Beat well 1 egg, white and yolk separately; pour 1 
cup of boiling water or milk to the yolk, add 1 teaspoon of sugar; 
mix well, and stir in the white. 

Onion Gruel — Slice and cut finely 2 or 3 small onions; stew them 
in a quart of water until they are soft; then add a teaspoon 
of good extract of beef. This is excellent for a cold. Or 
the onions may be stewed in milk instead of water, and a 
sprinkle of oatmeal and a pinch of pepper stirred in, 
instead of the meat extract if preferred. Take it just 
before getting into bed, 

MILK PORRIDGE.— Boil 24 raisins cut in quarters, 
in water enough to cover them, 20 minutes; when iDlump, 
and the water has evaporated, add 2 cups of milk, and 
when boiling add 1 teaspoon of flour rubbed to a paste; let 
it boil up, then with a little cold milk add the white of an onion. 
egg well beaten. 

OATMEAL JELLY OR STIFF PORRIDGE.— Boil a pint of 
water, and while it is still on the fire, stir in small quantities of oat- 
meal very fast, sprinkling it in, until it is rather thick; then boil it 
slowly ^ hour. Turn it out into a soup plate, and eat it with milk, or 
syrup, or butter and salt. 

ELM JELLY — To 1 quart of water add 4 tablespoons chipj)ed 
slippery elm, and let it stand over night. In the morning strain off 
the water, add 1 or 2 slices of lemon (without seeds), sweeten, and 
let it boil for 10 minutes. Remove the lemon, and pour it into a 
mold to cool and harden. 

RICE JELLY — Make a thin paste of 2 oz. of rice flour and 3 oz. 
of loaf sugar; boil them in a quart of water till transparent. Flavor 
with rose, orange, or cinnamon water. It can be made also by boil- 
ing whole rice long and slowly. A pinch of salt improves it. 

TAPIOCA JELLY — Choose the largest sort, j)our on cold water 
to wash it 2 or 3 times, then soak it in fresh water 5 or hours, and 
simmer it in the same until it becomes clear, adding the peel of 1 
lemon; then add sugar, and lemon juice. It thickens very much 
Wine is also sometimes added for invalids. 

RESTORATIVE JELLY — Use 1 box of gelatine, 1 tablespoon 
of powdered gum arable, ^ pint of port wine, juice of -^ a Jenion, 3 
tablespoons of sugar, and 3 whole cloves; put all in a covered glass 
jar, set it on a plate in a kettle of cold water, let it soak ^ hour, put it 
on the fire, and heat slowly; when all is dissolved, stir well, and 
strain into a shallow dish, and cut in squares. 



588 INVALID COOKERY 

WINE JELLY — Use | cup of gelatine; soak soft in ^ cup of 
cold water; then jjomt in 1 pint of boiling water, juice of 1 lemon, 1 
cup of sugar, 1 cup of sherry wine; stir and strain through a cloth 
into a mold. , 

CRACKER PANADA. — Pour over 3 or 4 crackers, in a sauce-pan^ 
enough water to barely cover them. Boil 2 or 3 minutes. Pour off 
the surplus water, and add enough hot milk or cream to soak them. 
Sweeten with powdered sugar. 

ICELAND MOSS — Wash 1 oz. in boiling water; then boil 
slowly in a pint of water until quite soft. Strain through cloth, and 
sweeten. When done it will make a very palatable dish. 

Iceland Moss. — This is really a lichen, not a moss. It 
grows in northern latitudes. Its bitter taste is due to an acid it v.v<fti. 

contains, but by soaking it in a weak solution of carbonate of ^^^r 
soda that can be removed. It contains about 10 per cent, of ^ip? 
water, 9 of albumenoids, 70 of lichen starch, 6 of lichen acids, ^i*^^ f^^^ 
3}4 of cellulose, and 1% of mineral matter. ^fel^ V<^ 

Ibish Moss is a seaweed, collected mostly on the coasts of "^^X^ "^^i^^ 
Ireland. Its chief constituent is a kind of mucilage which dis- ""^^T^SfcAT^ 
solves to a stiff paste in boiling water; it also contains a little ^^^ 

iodine and much sulphur. Its constituents are, water 19^, albu- "*^ 

menoids 9, mucilage, etc. 56, mineral matter li. It should be Iceland moss. 
soaked in cold water for an hour or so before being boiled in 
water or milk. It will often relieve a severe cough, and is fre- 
quently given in cases of rheumatism and gout. 

ARROWROOT BLANC MANGE.— Mix arrowroot in the usual 
way, but use 3 times more than you would for gruel; add milk and 



RICE BLANC MANGE — Boil as much ground rice in a pint of 
milk as w411 make it thick enough to turn out of a mold, sweetening 
and flavoring to taste. A sauce can be added of milk, cream, or any 
invalid custard. 

Sago Blanc Mange is made the same way, first washing the sago in 
several waters. 

Tapioca Blanc Mange is made the same way, washing the tapioca, 
and using less of it. 

TAQANROK BLANC MANGE.— Put 2 cups milk in a double 
boiler, bring it to a boil, and sprinkle in 2 tablespoons taganrok 
farina, stirring all the time; add ^ teaspoon salt, and cook 30 min- 
utes, stirring often; then turn into a mold which has been wet with 
cold water; let cool, and serve ice cold with cream and sugar. 
(Taganrok is Russian wheat farina. It can be bought in small 
packages at the stores.) 



CARVING. 

fT^ARYING is an art — it is to be regretted that it is an art so 
I y^ little understood, for there are far too many poor and indif- 
i^ ferent carvers in the world. Every man and woman must at 
times be called on to carve, and they should certainly know 
how to do so properly. A joint of meat will go very much farther, 
and the guests will be much better served when handled by a skilful, 
than by a poor and awkward carver. 

It is not difficult to learn to carve well, and it ought to be a pari 
of the education of every boy and girl. Certainly it is an accom- 
plishment they may be proud to possess, and it will often save them 
from embarassment. Any one who will begin at the beginning and 
give the matter a little thoughtful study can master the art, and it 
will be of far more advantage in life than many other accomplish- 
ments to which much more time and thought are given. 

Before coming to the table the knife should be well sharpened 
and put in good condition. It will be very annoying to wait to 
sharpen the knife, and without having it sharp no one can carve 
well. Keep the carving knife for that purpose alone, and never use 
it to cut bread or other articles. During all pauses in carving, the 
knife and fork should be placed on the knife rests, and not thrust 
and left under the meat. 

It would be much better if instead of sending all the gravy to 
the table at first, a portion was reserved to be sent in hot for the "sec- 
ond help." To have the meat swimming in a platter full of gravy is 
not at all desirable. Many platters are now made with a well to 
receive and hold the gravy. When such a dish is not used, a crust of 
bread can be slipped under the platter to tip it a little and cause the 
gravy to run to one side, but to tilt up the plate with one hand, while 
the gravy is ladled out with the other, is considered inelegant. 

The dish upon which the article to be carved is placed should 
be near the carver, so that he may have full control of it. If placed 
far away, ungracefulness in appearance and difficulty in performing 
the task are inevitable. Any display of exertion reflects either on 
the skill of the carver or the quality of the meat. Work deliberately 
and carefully, and try to divide the material so that all may be 
served equally well, and when serving the meat lay the best side up. 

589 



590 



CARVING 




The directions which we give, and the illustrations accompany- 
ing them, will make the best methods of carving clear. Always do 
the best you can while carving, but as practice alone makes perfect, 
no opportunity to practice should be lost, for thus alone can the 
facility so essential to ease be acquired. 

TONGUE — This can be carved in either of 2 ways. One is to 
cut f of the way down, as shown by the 
line A B, and then cut thin, even slices A 

from each side, but this method is waste- 
ful. A more economical way is to cut 
clear through the tongue, and then cut 
slices from each half. A little fat should 
be cut from the root of the tongue and 
placed with each slice. Although it is 

not generally carved in that way, it will be an improvement if the tip 
of the tongue is cut lengthwise, in thin, even slices. 

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.— A sirloin of beef may be divided into 2 
parts — the underwent or fillet, and the top or rump. As the under- 
cut is best served hot, and as it is often sufficient to dine a small 
family, it is frequently carved 
first. Besides this it is thought 
that the top presents a better 
appearance when sent cold to 
the table; some families, how- 
ever, prefer to reserve the un- 
der^^cut for a cold dinner next 
day — it is purely a matter of 
taste. 

If the under side is cut first, 
the best way is to remove the 

fat, E, which, if not eaten at the table, chops up well to make pud- 
dings. A portion of the fat should go with the lean to each guest. 
Then the meat can be cut in good even slices as shown by the dotted 
lines H. For the upper j)ortion, first thrust in the knife and run it 
along the upper side of the bone from b to d, separating the meat. 
Then with a firm, even stroke, cut as shown by the dotted line A to c, 
cutting down clear to the bone. 

Each slice should be thin and even, and the sirloin should cut 
fairly to the very end. Some persons cut across from i to J, but this 
is a wasteful plan, and not to be recommended. As the welhdone 
portion comes on the outside, and the rare in the center, a number of 




SIBLOIN OF BEEF. 



oARvma 



591 




BKIBKET OF BEEF. 



slices should be cut off, and the guest offered his choice between rare 
and well=done. 

RIBS OF BEEF — These are best cut in the manner described 
for the upper part of the sirloin. First thrust in the kaife and sepa- 
rate the meat from the bone, and then cut from end to end (not 
across), cutting the meat in thin, even slices. 

BRISKET OF BEER— A 

brisket is very easy to carve — 
cut across as shown by the en- 
graving from A to B. Cut mod- 
erately thick slices, and evenly, 
with a firm hand, down to the 
bone, so that it will not have a 
rough and jagged look when re- 
moved. The carving knife used for joints of this character should 
not be too thin. 

ROUND OF BEEF.— In 

carving a round of beef, or 
ribs rolled, a long, thin, and 
very sharp knife should be 
used. A slice is cut off of the 
top leaving the surface flat, 
and then very thin, even sli- 
ces should be cut across as 
shown in the direction a to b. 
A morsel of the fat should be served with each slice of the lean. 

BREAST OF VEAL — First separate a breast of veal into 2 
parts (it rightly consists of 
2, the rib bones and the 
gristly brisket) by passing 
the knife along sharply in 
the direction of from a to 
B. Then carve the rib 
bones as shown by e to f, 
while the gristle is carved 
by cutting as shown by the lines G to d. In a breast of veal, stewed, 
these are particularly tender and inviting, and should be offered to 
those who prefer it. A slice of the sAveetbread, if it is served with 
the dish, should be given to each guest. 




BOUND OF BEEF. 




D D" 

BBEA8T OF VEAL. 



592 



CARVING 




NECK OF YEAL. 




NECK OF VEAL.— If this 
is jointed by the butcher and a 
chop given to each one it serves 
them with a gigantic piece 
much of which will be wasted. 
The best way to carve it is to 
cut diagonally as shown by the 
dotted lines B to c, and help in 
slices of moderate thickness; 

you can then cut from o to d in order to separate the small bones,, 
and divide and serve them, first inquiring, however, if they are de- 
sired. 

LOIN OF VEAL.— 

This should be carved by 
cutting along the line in- 
dicated by A to B. If the 
butcher does his work well 
there is little difficulty, but 
if not it is hardly possible 
to carve it decently. When 
the loin is large, one chop 
will make two small helps; in this case the under-cut, which is the 
tenderest part, should be put with the end, and the bone and upper 
left together. The kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, are 
considered great delicacies, and a piece should be given to each 
guest. The most economical way of serving loin of veal is to bone 
and roll it, when it can be cut in thin slices like a jfillet. 

KNUCKLE OF VEAL— 

Carve a knuckle of veal by 
simply cutting off slices as 
indicated by the line a to b. 
Cut clear to the bone, and oc- 
casionally cut along the bone 
and horizontally around it to 
clear the center. The best sli- 
ces are those from the thick- 
est part — that is near the end. 

SHOULDER OF VEAL. 

— This is sent to the table with the upper part placed uppermost. 
Serve it like a shoulder of mutton, beginning at the knuckle end 



LOIN OF VEAL. 




KNUCKLE OF VE.». 



CARVING 



593 




FILLET OF VEAL — This meat has a tendency to break and 
crumble, and should, therefore, be cut with a thin and very sharp 
knife, in the manner explained tor a round of beef. The top, if it is 
well roasted, is a nice brown, and should be cut into small pieces, 
and a little served to each one, unless it is given as a courtesy to 
some favored guest. Place a little stuffing on each plate. 

CALF'S HEAD. — Commence by making long slices from end 
to end of the cheek, cutting quite through to the bone, as shown by 
the dotted lines A to b. Serve with 
each slice a cut of what is called the 
throat sweetbread, which lies at the 
fleshy part of the neck end. Cut 
small slices also from c to d and 
serve small pieces with the meat; they 
are gelatinous and delicious. The 
tongue is served on a separate plate, 
surrounded by the brains, and is cut 
across in rather thin slices. Offer 

, -t I rr\ .1 calf's HEAD. 

some to each guest. To remove the 

eye insert the knife at f, x)nsh it down to the center, and turn around 
as shown by the dotted line. This will bring it out cone=shaped and 
entire. Some consider it a titbit. Then turn the plate and remove 
the jaw, beginning to cut at g. The palate is considered a dainty, 
and a little should be offered each one. 

HAUNCH OF MUTTON.— Have the dish placed so that the loin 
is nearest and the knuckle farthest from you. Then make an inci- 
sion from A to B with the point of the knife, holding it rather up- 
right. Then cut from a to c 
with a slanting cut, not more 
than ^ of an inch deep at a 
B, though it may go to the 
bone in the middle. Let 
each succeeding cut, shown 
by the dotted lines to c, be 
sloping, and the gravy will 

gather in the center, called the "well." Serve a spoonful of this 
gravy with each slice of meat. Be careful and not let the gravy run 
out into the dish. The fat will be found at c, and a little^ should be 
served with the meat. 

SADDLE OF MUTTON.— The tail end is divided in the illustra- 
tion,, and the kidnej^s skewered under each division; this is not al- 




lUNCH OF MUTTON 



594 



CAKVING 




SADDLE OF MUTTON. 



ways done, as it is a matter o£ taste. Carve a saddle of mutton by 

cutting tliin, even slices a- 

long each side of the center 
bone, in the direction A to B; 
help fat from c to D. You 
may help from the vertabrse 
on both sides the loin, and 
then carve crosswise, as mark 
ed in the engraving, which 
gives you both fat a^id lean. 
Help a slice of kidney to 
those who desire. It is best 

to have relays of very hot gravy served separately, as saddle of mut- 
ton very soon gets cold. The dish in which it is served, as well as 
the plates, should be very hot, 

NECK OF MUTTON— This is usually boiled, and then carved 
by cutting it into chops, as shown in the dotted line, and into pieces, 
by bringing the knife between the bones, at what is known as the 
scrag end. When the best end of the neck 
is roasted (this forms an admirable joint 
for 2 or 3 persons) it should be carved like 
a saddle of mutton, and the neck should 
not be jointed by the butcher (see remarks 
about that on carving the loin). When 
carved thus, nothing is wasted; the bones 
left on the platter will do for the stock=pot, 
while the scrapings, etc. will make a dish 
of mince. 

LEG OF MUTTON.— The knife should be carried down sharply 
in the direction of the line a to b, and slices taken from either side, 
as the guests may desire, 
some liking the knuckle 
end because well done, and 
others preferring the rar- 
er parts. The fat should 
be sought near the line c 
to D. Some connoisseurs 
are fond of having this 
joint dished with the un- 
der side uppermost, so as 
to get at the finely grained meat lying underneath, known as the 




NECK OF MUTTON. 




LEG OF MUTTON. 



CAKvma 



595 




SHOULDEB OF MUTTON. 



Pope's eye but that is an extravagant fashion, of carving. When 
carved outside the room a leg of mutton can be cut in slices parallel 
with the bone, when it has the appearance of, and is practically, a 
haunch. 

SHOULDER OF MUTTON.— Commence carving from a to b 
taking out moderately thick slices in the shajoe of a wedge; some nice 
pieces' may then be helped from the blade bone, from c to d, cutting 
on both sides of the bone. 
Out the fat from E to F, cut- 
ting it in thin slices. Now 
turn the joint and carve the 
under side of the shoulder, 
as some of the choicer parts 
lie there. Cut horizontally 
along the whole length, as 
from o to D. Some tender 
slices are met at E to f, but 
they are cut as indicated. In 

carving this joint the tastes of those at the table should be consulted, 
as it has many titbits. It should be served hot, as it is very insipid 
when cold 

FORE=QUARTER OF LAMB.— Place your knife near the 
knuckle, and cut along a, b, c, d, e. Pass your knife under, lift 
with the fork, and the shoulder will come away. Do not cut away 
too much meat from the 
breast, as that will spoil 
the appearance. The juice 
of half a lemon is then 
squeezed under the shoul- 
der, salt and pepper sprink- 
led on, and a small piece of 
butter added, and the parts 
reunited until the butter is 
melted, when the shoul- 
der is removed to another plate. Then sejjarate the ribs from the 
brisket by cutting from p to E. Carve the ribs in the direction of i to 
K, and the brisket from g to h. Ask guests which part they pre- 
fer, ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder, and serve accordingly. 

OTHER JOINTS OF LAMB.— These are carved exactly like the 
corresponding joints of mutton, and our readers can refer to the di- 
rections given for those. 
41 




FOEE=QUAKTER OF LAMB. 



596 



CAKVING 




LOIN OF MUTTON. 



LOIN OF MUTTON.— The most economical way of carvinpj a 
loin of mutton is to carve it like a saddle, by 
taking slices along the line A b. The end 
can be cut off before roasting, and will make 
a good stew. When carved in this way, how- 
ever, tell the butcher not to joint the meat, 
as each chop makes a gash that lets out the 
gravy. When the loin is jointed it is too oft- 
en served up in irregular chops, which are 
only half picked, and as much of the meat is 
wasted as is eaten. When it is jointed it is 
cut as indicated by the line c to D- 

LEQ OF PORK.— Carve 

this like a leg of mutton, by 
cutting sharply down to the 
bone in the direction of A to B. 
Serve a piece of crackling with 
each slice. When the leg is 
stuffed ask if stuffing is liked, 
as many persons object to the 
flavor of onions. The best way 
to serve sage and onion stuffing, 
is sejDarately in a sauce tureen. 
Also serve apple sauce, and some 
very hot gravy with it. 

LOIN OF PORK 

This should be properly 
jointed before cooking, and 
the crackling should be 
scored. Then carve from 
A to B, dividing it into 
neat and even chops. Stuf- 
fing is best served sepa- 
rately, as well as good hot 
gravy in tureens. Give a 
piece of crackling with each help. 

HAM.— The carver must judge whether he wishes to be guided 
by economy, or to get the prime slices at once. On the former plan 
he will begin at the knuckle end c to d, and work gradually back 




LEG OF PORK. 




CARVING 



597 




into the ham, cutting off thin even slices, and leaving the knuckle 
bone bare. On the other 

plan he will begin by cut- ^ 

ting at A to B, and carve 
thin, wedge shaped slices, 
going clear to the bone, 
and working on the side 
away from the knuckle. 
The knife should be very 
sharp and thin, and the ex- 
perienced carver prefers 

one which has been worn down narrow as well as thin. A third plan 
is to cut a circular hole at the top e, and slice pieces off inside the 
hole, gradually enlarging the circle, but the other plans are generally 
considered preferable. Send ham. to the table with the knuckle or- 
namented with a paper frill, as shown in our illustration, if con- 
venient. 

SUCKING PIG. — This is usually sent to the table as snown m 
our illustration. First cut off the shoulder by bringing the knife 
round as shown by the 
dotted line A, b, c. Then 
cut off the hind leg by 
cutting as shown by the 
dotted line A, b, c. The 
ribs can now be easily cut 
down in the direction D to 
E. The other half is, of 
course, carved in the same 
way. The pig is some- 
times sent to the table 
whole In that case first cut off the head. Then cut directly down 
the center of the back from neck to tail, dividing the pig in two. 
Then proceed as above. A sucking pig is considered delicious eat- 
ing, but different parts are variously esteemed, and the carver should 
consult the preferences of his guests. Give a portion of the crack- 
ling to each one. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON.— The manner of carving this is identi- 
cal with that of a haunch of mutton. See the explanation given for 
that. 

NECK OF VENISON.— A neck if it is kept just long enough, 
but not too long, is equal to a haunch. The neck, however, should 




ROAST PIG. 



598 



CARVINa 




BOILED BABBIT. 



never be jointed, as that ruins it. In carving, cut parallel with the 
spine, as explained for a loin of mutton (which see). Slices of fat 
will be found lower down, and a little can be served each guest. 

BOILED RABBIT — 

Draw the knife on each 
side of the back bone the 
whole length of the rab- 
bit, as shown by the line 
A to B, thus dividing it in- 
to 3 parts. Now divide 
the back into 2 parts, cut- 
ting in the direction of the 

line c to D. Then take off the leg by cutting along the line E to F; 
the joint will readily disclose itself. Cut the shoulder as shown at G 
to H. The tenderest part is on the loins. There are other x:»lans of 
carving a rabbit, but we think this the best. With a very large rab- 
bit, slices may first be cut out of the back, parallel with the backbone; 
then take off the legs, and then divide the back as at c to D. 

ROAST RABBIT.— The trussing of a roast rabbit is rather differ- 
ent from one which is 
boiled, but the carving is 
quite similar. Cut as 
many slices of moderate 
thickness from A to B as 
it will give, and then dis- 
engage the legs and shoul- 
ders as with boiled rabbit. 
The loins are the tenderest part. 

ROAST TURKEY.— The chief efPort should be to obtain as many 
slices as possible from 
the breast; it is re- 
markable how many 
more a good carver 
will obtain than a 
poor one. A skilful 
carver knows the lo- 
cation of the joints, 
and easily manages 
the dissection. Com- 
mence by carving sli- 
ces from both sides of 
the breast in the direction of the lines B to o, beginning close to the 




BOAST BABBIT. 




BOAST TUBKEY. 



CARVING 599 

wing and working upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone. 
Then separate the legs by passing the knife along a to h, and 
on turning the leg out a little with the fork the joint will dis- 
close itself; then divide the thigh from the drumstick. Separate the 
pinion carefully and neatly from the body. The stuffing can be ob- 
tained by making an opening at B. 

BOILED TURKEY— This is trussed in a little different manner 
from a roast turkey, but it is carved in the same way 

ROAST FOWL — Have the fowl lie upon its back, with the 
tail to the left. Insert the fork into the breast firmly, a little to the 
left of the center, with a prong on either side of the ridge of the 
breastbone. Insert the knife between the leg and the side and press 
back the leg with the blade of the knife; the thighbone will leave the 
socket, and only a little assistance of the 

knife is needed to free the leg. Remove ^^-'T'--*^ 

the wing by cutting from b to D; press ^^^^^^^ A 

out the knife and the joint will come apart; ^^^^TT^?^^^ 

then separate it from the body. Remo-ve ^^^^p^^°^^^^^ 
the merrythought and neck bones by in- M3^^ fe s i|g^^ ^^^P 
serting the knife and forcing it under the boast fo^^^T" 

bones as at c to d; raise it and it will 

readily separate from the breast. Divide the breast from the body 
by cutting through the small ribs down to the vent, turn the back 
uppermost, put the knife into about the center between the neck and 
rump, raise the lower part firmly yet gently, and it will easily sep- 
arate; then turn the neck or rump from you and take off the side 
bones. 

In separating the thigh from the drumstick the knife must be 
inserted exactly at the joint or much difficulty will be experienced. 
In very young fowls the breast is served whole ; the wings and breast 
are preferred. A very large fowl is often carved like a turkey, which 
see. 

BOILED FOWL — This is carved the same as roast fowl. The 
knife should be very sharp, and it should be carved with a sort of 
drawing cut, instead of using much downward pressure, as the 
boiled white flesh is apt to crumble. 

CAPONS. — These when very fine and roasted, should have sli- 
ces carved from the breast, like a turkey. See our di^-ections for carv- 
ing a turkey. 

ROAST GOOSE. — In carvini;- a goose the first effort should be to 



GOO 



CARVING 




EOAST GOOSE. 



cut as many slices as possible from the breast, and to do this the 
meat attached to the wings 
liiiist be sacrificed. Turn 
the neck end of the goose 
towards you, and cut the 
Vv'hole breast in long slices 
from one wing to the oth- 
er; see the dotted lines b to 
c. To separate the legs, 
turn the goose on its side, 
and cut with the knife as near to the carcass as possible until stopped 
by the bone; then raise the leg with the fork and it can be easily 
separated from the body. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the 
small end of the pinion and press it close to the body, then put the 
knife in above and divide the joint. Make an incision at A, A, A, and 
offer a little of the stuffing to each one. 

ROAST DUCK — In carving a duck a good deal depends on its 
size and fatness. A large duck with plenty of fat on the breast is 
carved like a goose (which see), first cutting slices oft' the breast, and 
then removing the legs and wings. Then remove the neckbone, or 
merrythought, as it is sometimes called, and then the whole breast- 
bone is separated from the rest by cutting through the sides. The 
backbone easily divides in two by being ijressed downwards. A lit- 
tle stuffing is served with each portion. A small or young duck is 
carved the same as directed for a fowl. 

PARTRIDGE. — The usual way is to place the bird on its back 
and carry the knife sharply along the breastbone and cut clear 
through, thus dividing the bird into 2 equal portions. Another way 
is to cut it into 3 pieces by severing a 
small wing and leg from the body by 
following the line A to B, thus mak- 
ing 2 helpings, when the breast will 
remain for a third. 

PIGEONS — These are usually 
cut in half, like the partridge, by cut- 
ting through the breast and back, and a half is sent to each person. 

SNIPE. — One of these is usually sent whole to a gentleman, 
but for a lady it is generally divided in halves, as explained for a 
partridge. 

Woodcock, Quails, and other Small Birds, are served like snipe, or 
halved and served on toast. 




PARTBIDGE. 



CASVING 601 

WILD DUCKS. — The breast of these is considered the choice 
portion, and is divided in slices. If necessary the leg and wing can 
be taken off as described for roast fowl. 

SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS.— Serve 1 to each 
person without dividing it. 

POACHED EGGS, QUAILS, AND OTHER MEATS ON TOAST. 

—Use a broad knife, lift the toast carefully, and without displacing 
the egg or bird transfer it to the guest's plate 

FISH. — More care than knowledge is required in carving fish, 
as the princiiDal thing is to avoid breaking the flakes. Still the car- 
ver should be acquainted with the choicest parts and should aim to 
give each guest an equal share of the titbits. Steel knives 
and forks should not be used in helping fish as they are liable to 
impart a very disagreeable flavor to it. Silver plated ones can easily 
be obtained when the solid silver is considered too expensive, and 
should be used. 

COD — Whether a codfish is sent to the table whole, or only a 
part is served, like the head and shoulders, it is best to make 1 cut 
from the head towards the tail (or vice versa) down to the bone, 
A, B, and then cut slices 

across from this line to ,c™..jc c 

the side c c, d d. When ^5{r'*"^^^^^^^B?5>^j^ 

codfish breaks into flakes, ^^^~^_ ) j^—-—--\--\----—b "^•'•nnww-,^^^ 
which it is very apt to do, ^^jC^ / /^^-aa gs^"''"^ 

they should be lifted with ^ o 

the fish knife, and one or ^^^' 

more, according to their 

size, served to each person. Also serve a piece of the sound, (which 
is found lining the back, and may be obtained by passing the knife 
under the backbone) with each help. Give also a piece of the liver, 
which should be divided into pieces enough to go around. The 
gelatinous parts about the head and neck are considered a delicacy. 

HADDOCK, BASS, BLUEFISH, SMALL SALMON, ETC.— 
These are carved much the same as cod. 

THE TURBOT.— This is carved much like cod, first ruuniiig the 
knife lengthwise of the fish, quite to the bone, and then cutting 
slices to the sides as directed above for cod. 

WHITEFISH, MACKEREL, ETC. -Divide the moat from the 
bones by cutting down the back lengthwise. Remove the lu'ail, 



602 CAKVING 

tail and backbone, and divide the fish into suitable portions for the 
guests. The upper part is the best. 

Brook Trout and All Small Fish are served whole. 

TURBANS AND FILLETS OF FISH— These, and all small slices 
of fish, are served without being divided. 

MEAT PIES — In carving and serving meat pies begin by cut- 
ting the cover of paste in triangular pieces from the center to the 
sides. Cut only 2 pieces before taking out and serving the meat. 
Serve a piece of the crust, and also a little gravy, with each piece of 
meat. 

PLUM PUDDING.— This should be cut in slices from top to bot- 
tom, cutting always from the center. 

CHEESE. — This should be cut and served in small thick pieces. 



THE TABLE AND ITS APPOINT= 

MENTS. 

\ I /he rule in serving meals should be to make them as attract- 
) I / ive as possible, and this is equally true whether one lives 
^X plainly or enjoys every luxury that can be obtained. The 
two principal methods of serving meals are known as the 
French and Russian (or a la Busse) methods, the latter being the 
most common method for formal dinners. 

DINNEE. 

This is the most substantial meal of the day, and should be 
served in a manner as elegant as the resources of the household will 
permit. When there are invited guests the number should not 
exceed twelve people, so that the conversation may be general. For 
this number the table should be a long one (the extension table com- 
monly used) and drawn out to its greatest length; there should be 
ample room allowed for each " cover " or place for a guest. The host 
may sit at one end of the table and the hostess at the other, or if 
more convenient they can sit opposite each other at the centre of the 
table. The round table, about five feet in diameter, is suited to a 
square dining-room, and for small parties, as it gives comfortable 
room for only 6 or 8 people. Great care should be taken that the 
covers are not crowded. The round table is better adapted to serv 
ing dinner a la Busse where all the carving is done at a side table. 
The object of a dinner party or high tea, is not to make a display of 
fine table=furniture, or too elaborate cookery, but to promote agree- 
able social intercourse and conversation among friends. In England 
the dinner hour is usually at eight o'clock, but in this country seven 
o'clock is more commonly set for. a ceremonious supper or dinner; 
this gives ample time at the table and afterwards for a social evening 
with conversation, amusements, and music. 

SETTING THE DINNER TABLE.— There is more art than 
many people imagine in setting a table properly. The table cloth 
should be laid evenly, with an equal amount falling over at tlie two 
ends and sides. A thick baize or canton flannel should be put under 
the table cloth, because if laid on a bare table, the hoM. table linen 

603 



THE TABLE 605 

will look thin and slazy. Nothing but the best white table cloths or 
uapkins should be used for a dinner table. 

In Fig. 1 we give an illustration showing how to set a table for a 
company of 6 where the carving is done by the host, which is the 
most common American plan. The plates are distributed at each 
place when it is desired to carve at the sideboard, but otherwise the 
same general arrangement prevails. We show 2 knives and forks at 
each plate in this illustration. 

The edges of the knives should always be turned towards the 
plates. Sometimes 3 or more are placed in this way, but 2 is a good 
rule, and if more are needed they can be brought in as required. 

The napkin, folded square, with a piece of bread an inch thick 
and 3 inches long can be placed on each plate or put on instead of 
the plate as shown in this illustration Instead of the individual salt 
cellars formerly used, salt stands are now placed at each end of the 
table, together with the pepper stands. 

At the right of each plate is arranged a goblet of water, and as 
many wine glasses as are needed. Those who use wine glasses can 
add them, but we omit them because this is a temperance work. The 
water goblet is filled just before dinner is announced. 

Neither glasses of any kind nor plates should ever be placed 
upside down. 

In some families water is served from the sideboard, and in 
others a water carafe for every 2 or 3 persons is placed on the table. 
At a party a small boquet would be at the place of each lady, and a 
buttondiole boquet (called a boutonniere) at that of each gentleman. 

The grapes, fruit, nuts, raisins, candies, bon-bons, fancy cakes, 
etc., (whatever is intended for dessert) are placed in 2 or 4 fancy 
dishes around the centeri^iece — this illustration shows 4. 

The butter may be made up in neat balls and placed, with suffi- 
cient individual butter plates to supply the company, near the 
hostess, who will serve it. It is not passed until after the soup 
dishes are removed. Some families place the butter on the sidebcnrd, 
and have it served by the servant. We have omitted it from the 
table in this illustration. 

Of course more or less latitude for individual preference is al- 
lowed in these matters. In Fig. 2 we show another plan of setting a 
table as arranged by the well known firm of Marshall Field & Co., 
of Chicago. In this illustration it will be noticed that there is a 
tumbler but no wine glasses, because this is a temperance work. 
Here the dinner plates are on the table, and the knives, 
forks and spoons are all on the right hand side of the plate, while 




606 



THE TABLE 




Fig. 3. 



the napkin is placed on the left hand side, instead of on the plate. 
This is a very appropriate and tastefid arrangement, and by looking 
at the two illustrations our readers can see two approved methods of 
setting the table at the present day. 

SERVING THE DINNER— The first course will be oysters 
(when they are served) with which comes lemon 
or vinegar; 5 oysters for each plate are enough. 
If they are not served, the oyster fork shown in 
our illustration will of course be omitted in set- 
ting the table. When the oysters are eaten the 
plates are removed, and soup is brought on by 
the servant who places it, together with the soup 
plates, before the hostess in the manner shown 
in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 3. The 
hostess then ladles out the soup, half a ladleful being enough for 
each person, and the servant places it before the guest. The ladies 
are served first by some hostesses, and others serve the guests in 
rotation. 

After the soup comes fish, which is carved by the host. The 
accom^Danying illustration. Fig. 4, shows the 
way in which the servant would place the fish 
platter, plates, etc., before the host ready to be 
carved. The servant passes each plate as the 
host hands it to her, and the servant should 
always pass the plates in at the left hand side 
of the guest. 

After the fish comes the meat or game 
which is carved by the host, and xDassed by the 
servant in the same way. The vegetables go 
with the meat, although at very formal dinners 
they are often made courses by tliemselves. 

The hostess serves the salad. Then the 
table is brushed and the dessert brought in and placed before the 
hostess who serves the pastry or pudding. The usual order for des- 
sert is pastry or pudding, ices, fruit, nuts and raisins, and bon-bons. 
Coffee follows the fruit. 

The finger bowls come before the fruit, and slioukl be about \ 
full of water slightly warmed and perfumed, and a doily is laid 
between the bowl and plate. The bowl and doily is lifted from the 
plate by the guest and placed at his left. The fingers should never 
be wiped on the doily, the napkin being used instead. 




THE TABLE 609 

At the close of the meal, when the hostess sees that all have fin- 
ished, she looks at the lady seated at the right of the host, and the 
guests rise, and they retire to the drawing room in the order in 
which they are seated. 

The above described method of serving dinner is appropriate 
for a family of moderate means with one or two servants. In cases 
where more expensive establishments are maintained, with many 
servants, the fish and meat would be carved by the butler, and the 
different courses would all be served from the sideboard by the serv- 
ants, instead of being placed on the table as described above and 
served by the host and hostess. 

The ordinary family dinner usually spread by a majority of the 
people in this country consists of three courses, — viz. soup, meats 
and vegetables, and a dessert of puddings or pies, — more commonly 
of only 2 courses, the soup being omitted. When the table is sup- 
plied in this way, the meat or meats, with 2 or more vegetables, are 
placed before the one who serves it and the dessert near some mem- 
ber of the family who serves that. If there is a maid she removes 
the first set of plates, knives, and forks, with the remainder of the 
meat and vegetables, takes off the crumbs with a crumb=knife and 
pan, then places smaller plates with the dessert before the one who 
serves it, replenishes water glasses, brings tea or coffee if desired, 
and leaves the room. 

THE BEEAKFAST TABLE. 

At the dinner table a white table=cloth and napkins should 
always be used, but at breakfast tinted napery is allowable. A 
plate, knife, fork, spoon, goblet, egg=cui3 and neatly folded napkin 
are set at each place at the table. Our illustration, Fig. 5, shows the 
manner of arranging them. 

The edge of the knife should always be turned towards the plate, 
and the goblet or egg=cup should never be upside down. 

The old individual salt cellars are no longer used, but salt stands 
are placed by the side of the pepper stands at the ends of the table. 
The individual butter plates will be placed beside the butter dish and 
the butter will be served by the hostess or some other member of the 
family. In many homes at present the butter is kept on the side- 
board and served by the servant, but on these points each family 
must follow its own preference. 

Casters are no longer used, being out of date. The pepper 
stands and vinegar=jug are shown in our cut. The water carafes, 
shown in this illustration, should be filled witli fresh, cold water, just 



THE TABLE 611 

before breakfast is announced. In some families the water is placed 
on the sideboard. 

Our other illustration, Fig. 6, shows a simple and tasteful plan 
of arrangement as prepared for us by Marshall Field & Co., of 
Chicago. 

SERVING BREAKFAST.— For breakfast 3 courses are enough at 
any time. The first course will consist of oatmeal, cracked-wheat or 
fruit The second will consist of the substantial — meat, potatoes, 
etc For convenience, in Fig. 5 we show the arrangement of the 
dishes for the second course, with the meat placed before the host at 
one end of the table, and the coffee service before the hostess at the 
other end. The third and last course will be the cakes or waffles. 

THE LUNCH OE TEA TABLE. 

The arrangement of the table for a lunch or supper would be 
very similar to that for breakfast. The illustrations and directions 
already given will be a sufficient guide for our readers in arranging 
almost any ordinary table. For a dinner table nothing but white 
napery is suitable, but at a luncheon tinted na^aery may be used if 
desired, although nothing is more suitable than white. At luncheon 
the food may all be placed on the table at the beginning, if desired, 
and those present may help each other. 

A FEW HINTS. 

In pretentious establishments it is not considered the proper 
thing to keep the table set all the time, but in modest houses, where 
the dining room is not used for other purposes, it is a saving of 
labor to keep the table continually set. After one meal is over, the 
dishes washed, the table cleared of crumbs and the napery changed 
if necessary, put everything in place except the food, and cover all 
with calico or mosquito netting until the next meal is served. This 
prevents confusion and hurry in placing meals on the table just 
before time for eating. Calico makes the best covering, as it protects 
from dust as well as flies. 

Where children wait on the table, or servants at a prolonged 
meal, they should have their dinner before their duties begin; it is 
cruel to make children, who need their food promptly, wait for it 
until after a long dinner is served to their elders. 

The custom of putting toothpicks on the table is very vulgar, 
and families of refinement do not allow it. 
42 




THE CHAFING DISH. 

^ I / HE chafing dish is very old, as it was used by the ancient 
^ I J Greeks and Romans, and we find it also in use during the 
gjj (g middle ages. Seneca says: "Daintiness gave birth to this 
^ invention in order that no viand should be chilled, and that 
everything should be hot enough to i^lease the most pam- 
pered palate. The kitchen follows the supper." It is used at pres- 
ent principally for preparing dishes directly upon the table, for late 
suppers and for light housekeeping that does not admit of the use 
of even an oil or gas stove. It is also very convenient in the sick 
room and in travelling. 

The Chafing Dish con- 
sists of 2 dishes one inside 
the other, on a standard over 
an alcohol lamp. With but 
one dish it is called a blazer. 
When 2 are used the lower 
one is filled with water and 
this prevents the food from 
burning, but it necessitates 
slow cooking. 

Chafing dishes are made 
of various materials from the 
tin costmg 50 cts. to $1. to the solid silver costing $100. or more. The 
cheajDer ones costing from $2 to $5. will do as good work as any of the 
more expensive ones. The best wicks are of asbestos, and the fuel 
used is alcohol, but wood alchohol answers just as well as high proof 
spirits, and costs much less. Do not fill the lamp too full. Even 
the largest dishes will not burn over 5 or 6 cents worth of high proof 
spirits in an hour, so that their use is not as expensive as many i^eo- 
ple imagine. They give out practically no heat, so that they can be 
used with comfort in even the hottest weather. They can be used to 
advantage by the poor as well'as the rich. 

The wicks should be perfectly trimmed and so regulated that all 
the flame comes under the dish, and none of it spreads out and up 
the sides. 

In using the hot water pan see that it contains the right quanti- 
ty of water — have it about |- inch deep. Those are the most conven- 
ient which have a handle attached to both pans. 

If the chafing dish is placed on a large metal tray there will be 
less danger of fire or of staining the table. Eussian bowls and wood- 
en spoons are the best to use. If a meal is prepared without any oth- 
er fire, two chafing dishes will be an advantage, as part of the food 
can then be kept hot while the balance is being cooked. 



A CHAFING DISH. 



THE CHAFING DISH 



613 



It is better to do the preliminary work of preparing the foods in 
the kitchen rather than in the presence of guests. As soon as the 
flame is put out put the water=pan, containing hot water, under the 
blazer; it will keep it warm. 

MEATS. 

CREAMED COLD MEAT— Make the " White Sauce " given 
hereafter;, then stir in 2 cups cold meat, cut small, and cook till it is 
thoroughly heated through. Season and serve. Cold roast beef, 
mutton, veal, lamb, turkey, chicken or duck is nice this way. If 
desired for a change 1 or 2 cups of cold boiled potatoes, cut into dice, 
can be heated with the meat. 

Curry stew. — By adding a teaspoon of curry powder to the above 
a curry stew can be made. 

DEVILED MEAT.— Make the " Deviled Sauce " given hereafter, 
and put in cold roast meat cut into pieces; cook till thoroughly 
heated through and serve. Season more highly if desired. Cold 
roast beef, mutton, veal, lamb, turkey, chicken or duck are nice thus 
served. 

Lobster can be cooked the same way. 

MEAT RE= WARMED — Into the blazer put 4 teaspoons^ butter, 
2 teaspoons of fruit jelly (currant, grape, or api^le) and the juice of 
half a lemon. Cook and stir till these are blended to form a smooth 
sauce; then put in slices of cold roast beef, mutton or lamb, add pep- 
per and salt, and cook till they are thoroughly warmed through, 
turning the pieces frequently. Use a low flame, so as not to scorch 
the jelly. 

Cold game orfoiol may be re= warmed in the same way. 

BROILED BEEFSTEAK.— Heat the blazer very hot, rub it with 
butter, and put in the steak; rather thin pieces are best; turn it often, 
and if it sticks to the pan or scorches, put in more butter. If the 
blazer is very hot it will broil nearly as well as on a gridiron. 

Lamb chops (choose 
small, thin ones) or veal 
cutlets can be broiled 
the same way. 

Venison steak can 
be broiled the same 
way. When nearly 
done a little jelly can 
bo melted and poured 
over it or the jelly 
can be served with 
it. 

BEEFSTEAK AND 
ONIONS In the bla- 
zer melt 1 tablespoon 




1. STAND AND LAMP. 

2. HOT WATEB PAN. 



BLAZES OB CHAFING DZBH. 
WOODEN BPOON./ 



614 THE CHAFING DISH 

butter; when hot put in |- lb. beefsteak cut into slices about ^ inch 
thick; cook about 5 minutes, turning so as to cook both sides; then 
put in 3 teaspoons chopped onions; cook about 5 minutes, season 
with salt and pepper and serve. A little chopped parsley added last 
will be an improvement. 

DRIED BEEF. — In the blazer put 2 teaspoons butter and 1 cup 
milk; when hot, put in ^ pint dried beef, chopped fine, and cook till 
well heated— about 6 minutes; then slowly stir in 2 beaten eggs, and 
when thick, season with salt and pepper and serve on fried bread or 
toast. Use both pans with hot water in the lower one. 

CALF'S BRAINS, CREAMED.— Prepare, parboil and cut the 
calf's brains into small pieces as directed on page 136. Make the 
"White Sauce" given hereafter, put in the prepared brains, cook 3 
to 5 minutes, and serve. 

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON — Into the blazer put thin slices 
of bacon and cook till the fat drains out and then push it one side. 
Have thin slices of liver ready, sprinkle them with pepper, roll in 
flour, and fry them till brown and tender in the pork fat, turning fre- 
quently. Serve a slice of bacon with each piece of liver if desired. 

CHICKEN AND OYSTERS.— Melt 2 tablespoons butter, and add 
2 tablespoons of flour, ^ teaspoon salt and ^ saltspoon of pepper; pour 
on slowly 2 cups cream and then add 2 cups cold boiled chicken, cut 
into dice, and 2 cups oysters washed and drained; cook until the oys- 
ters are plump. Sprinkle with celery which has been chopped fine, 
and serve on toast. 

BROILED SWEETBREADS — Prepare the sweetbreads as di- 
rected on page 139. When the chafing dish is very hot rub it with 
butter; put in the prepared sweetbreads and broil them a delicate 
brown; be careful not to let them scorch; add more butter if they 
stick to the pan; when done add 2 teaspoons butter and when it melts 
put out the lamp. With each portion of the sweetbread serve a little 
of the butter. 

CREAMED SWEETBREADS.— Make the " White Sauce " giv- 
en hereafter; then put in the sweetbreads, prepared as directed on 
page 139; cook about 5 or 6 minutes, and serve. 

TRIPE WITH ONIONS — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons but- 
ter; when hot put in 1 tablespoon sliced onions and cook till brown; 
then put in 2 cups tripe cut into dice, add 1 cup milk or cream, and 
cook till heated through. Season with salt and pepper and serve 
plain or on toast. 

SAUCES. 

DEVILED SAUCE — Into the blazer put 1 tablespoon of but- 
ter, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 2 onions, 
chopped fine, and 1 teaspoon mixed mustard; stir constantly, and 



THE CHAFING DISH 615 

cook about 2 minutes after the butter melts; then add 2 teaspoons 
Worcestershire sauce, and a little salt and cayenne.* 

EQQ SAUCE. — Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. 
In the blazer melt 1 tablespoon of butter; add 3 heaping teaspoons of 
flour and a little water; stir constantly as it cooks, and as it thickens, 
thin with milk or cream (about -| cup) until of the right consisten- 
cy; when done let it boil a minute, and add 3 hard boiled eggs cut 
into dice. Be careful not to burn the sauce. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE — Into the blazer put 2 teaspoons butter, 2 
teaspoons tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons of either cucumber, walnut, or 
tomato catsup, ^ a small onion finely minced, ^ teaspoon salt, a pinch 
of cayenne; let all boil together 3 or 4 minutes. Use both pans, with 
hot water in the lower one. 

WHITE SAUCE — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons butter; add 
1 tablespoon of flour and stir constantly to keep it free from lumps; 
when these bubble put in 1 cup milk and stir till it thickens. Sea- 
son with salt and pepper. If desired, for additional flavor, add lemon 
juice or onion. Use both pans, having boiling water in the lower 
one. 

FISH AND SHELL^FISH. 

CREAMED FISH — Take 1 can salmon, turn it on a platter, take 
out all pieces of skin and bone and pick it well to pieces; drain, and 
let it stand 2 or 3 hours to aerate. Make the " White Sauce" previ- 
ously given; add the salmon and stir constantly until well heated 
through ; then add a little lemon juice and serve. 

In the same way any other kind of fish can be cooked. 

CREAMED SALT COD.— Shred it well, put it in a colander and 
pour on boiling water 2 or 3 times. Prepare the " White Sauce " 
previously given; when hot put in 1 pint of the fish; when ,it is well 
heated add 1 cup cream; let it get hot and serve. 

FISH WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE.— Prepare the "Sauce Pi- 
quante" as previously directed; when hot, put in 2 cups cold flaked 
fish, and cook it till thoroughly heated through, turning it often so 
that the sauce may permeate it well. 

HALIBUT STEAKS — Have the steaks 3 or 4 inches square and 
about I inch thick. Sprinkle on salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg 
and roll in flour. Put 4 teaspoons butter in the blazer and when 
smoking hot put in the fish and fry it nicely. Garnish with slices of 
lemon, or sprinkle on lemon juice. 

SARDINES.— Free them from oil by letting them drain on 
paper, and scrape off the skin carefully. Choose those which are 
boneless. In the chafing dish melt 2 teaspoons butter; when hot put 
in the sardines and cook'^them carefully, turning them once to cook 



*NoTE.— For chafing dish cookery, paprica (which is a kind of red pepper) 
can be used in place of cayenne, and many prefer it. 



61G THE CHAFING DISH 

both sides. When done, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle on a 
little lemon juice, and serve on toast. 

BROOK TROUT — Dress the trout and dip them in beaten egg 
seasoned with salt and pepper and roll them in flour; put 4 teaspoons 
butter in the blazer and when it is smoking hot put in the trout and 
cook till done. Time about 5 or 6 minutes. If desired, a little pars- 
ley can be fried with them. They can be fried the same way in olive 
oil if preferred. 

BOILED WHITE FISH — Into the blazer put a slice of white 
fish nearly large enough to cover the bottom ; pour on enough hot 
water to cover it, add 1 tablespoon vinegar and | teaspoon salt, and 
boil till done. Time, about 10 minutes. When served, pour on 
melted butter and sprinkle on chopped parsley. 

BROILED OYSTERS.— Rub butter on the bottom of the chafing 
dish and when hot put in large, plump oysters; when one side is done 
turn and cook the other. Watch carefully or they will scorch, as 
they quickly brown. Add more butter if they stick to the bottom. 
Serve at once when done. 

DEVILED OYSTERS.— In the blazer mix 1 teaspoon Worces- 
tershire sauce, 2 teaspoons melted butter, \ teaspoon each of curry 
powder and salt, and a pinch of cayenne; as it heats put in 1 cup 
oyster liquor, and when it boils put in the oysters; cook them till 
plump, turning them 2 or 3 times, and serve at once. 

FRIED OYSTERS — Drain large oysters, sprinkle on pepper and 
salt, and roll in cracker crumbs. Into the blazer put 3 tablespoons 
butter, and when hot put in the oysters; when one side is done turn 
and cook the other; lift out with a fork. Serve slices of lemon with 
them, or squeeze on a little lemon juice. 

OYSTERS IN THEIR SHELLS— Put oysters in their shells into 
the chafing dish (first cleaning the shells thoroughly) and steam 
them till the shells will open. Time, ^ to -| hour. Then take ofp the 
upper shell, add pepper, salt and butter to season, and serve at once 
in the lower shell. Squeeze on lemon juice or serve with slices of 
lemon. 

PANNED OYSTERS — In the blazer melt 4 teaspoons of butter; 
when hot, put in some good sized oysters; when the edges curl 
season with salt, pepper, and a very little lemon juice. Serve on 
toast. 

STEWED OYSTERS — In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; 

then stir in 2 teaspoons flour and add 2 cups oyster liquor; when it 
boils put in the oysters and cook till the edges curl. Season with 
pepper, salt, a dash of nutmeg and lemon juice, and serve. 

CREAMED CLAMS.— Into the blazer put 2 teaspoons butter 
and the same of flour; add 2 cups cream and stir and cook till it 
makes a smooth sauce; then put in 2 cups soft shell clams and cook 
till plump; stir in the beaten yolks of 2 eggs and cook 1 or 2 min- 



THE CHAFING DISH 617 

utes. Add a little lemon juice and serve. Use both pans, with hot 
water in the lower one. 

HARD SHELL CRABS.— Into the blazer put 1 tablespoon 
butter; when smoking hot put in the crabs and fry them nicely. 
Add salt, pepper and a little lemon juice, and serve. 

OYSTER CRABS— In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; when 
hot put in the crabs. Time to cook, about 2 or 3 minutes. Add 
pepper, salt and a little lemon juice and serve. 

DEVILED SOFT SHELL CRABS— Take 2 teaspoons butter, 1 
teaspoon each made mustard and curry powder, 1 saltspoon of salt 
and ^ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce; rub it to a smooth paste in the 
butter, and spread each crab with it. In the blazer melt a little 
butter; when smoking hot put in the prepared crabs and fry them 
nicely. 

Lobster meat, (it should be in large pieces), can be prepared the 
same way. 

SOFT SHELL CRABS — Remove the feathery substance under 
the sides of the shell, rinse them in cold water, drain, sprinkle with 
pepper and salt, and dredge with flour. In the blazer melt 5 or 6 
teaspoons of butter; when smoking hot put in the crabs and fry 
brown on both sides. Time to cook about 9 minutes. Select small 
crabs and have them fresh. 

CREAMED SCALLOPS — Parboil 2 cups of scallops about 6 
minutes in boiling water, and drain. In the blazer melt 4 teaspoons 
butter; stir in 2 teaspoons flour and 2 cups milk and cook till 
smooth ; then put in the scallops. Time to cook, about 4 to 6 min- 
utes. Season with pepper and salt and serve. 

FRIED SCALLOPS — Parboil the scallops about 5 minutes in 
boiling water; drain, dry, sprinkle on salt and pepper and roll them 
in cracker crumbs or flour. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in the blazer; 
when hot, put in the scallops and fry them a delicate brown. 

CREAMED SHRIMPS.— Make the "White Sauce" previously 
given; put in the shrimps and simmer until they are heated through, 
and serve. 

STEWED SHRIMPS Into the blazer put 2 tablespoons of but- 
ter; when bubbling hot put in the shrimps; as soon as they are thor- 
oughly heated put in 1 cup boiling water and cook about a minute; 
then add salt, pepper and a little lemon juice and serve. The 
canned shrimps can be used nearly as well as the fresh, but rinse 
them in cold water before they are cooked. 

FRIED SMELTS.— Into the blazer, over the hot water pan, put 
2 tablespoons butter; when hot put in a little lemon juice and then 
the smelts; cook on one side, then turn and cook the other. Season 
with salt and pepper and serve. A little chopped parsley added will 
be an improvement. 



618 THE CHAFING DISH 

CREAMED LOBSTER.— Into the blazer, (be sure and have the 
hot water dish under it), put 2 teaspoons butter, 2 heaping teaspoons 
flour, 1 cup milk and 1 cup cream; cook till it makes a smooth sauce; 
then put in 2 cups lobster, *1 teaspoon salt and a dash of cayenne; 
stir until the lobster is thoroughly heated through ; then put in an- 
other cup of cream and leave just long enough to heat it well. Add 
a little lemon juice and serve. 

DEVILED LOBSTER.— Into the blazer put 2 large teaspoons 
butter, 1 saltspoon each of salt and dry mustard, and a pinch of cay- 
enne; when hot put in the meat of 2 small or 1 large lobster and stir 
briskly till it is thoroughly heated; then add a little lemon juice and 
serve. 

FRIED LOBSTER — In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; 
when smoking hot put in 2 cups fresh lobster meat cut into small 
pieces; stir briskly and it will be done as soon as it is thoroughly 
hot. Add salt, a pinch of cayenne and a little lemon juice. A can 
of lobster can be used instead, but have the can opened and the lob- 
ster turned out and allowed to aerate 2 or 3 hours before being used, 
and cut the meat into small pieces. 

FROGS' LEGS. — Skin and put them for 3 minutes in boiling 
salted water containing a little vinegar; lift out, pour on cold water, 
dry them, add salt and pepper and roll in flour. Put 4 teaspoons 
butter in the chafing dish and when smoking hot i^ut in the frogs' 
legs and fry them a delicate brown. Sprinkle on chopped parsley, 
if convenient, and serve. Or the white sauce previously given can 
be made in the lower pan, and the fried frogs' legs served in it. 

EGGS. 

BOILED EGGS. — Have the water boiling, put in the eggs and 
leave 1 minute; put out the lamp, leave on the cover, and leave the 
eggs in 5 or 6 minutes. 

EGG AND ANCHOVY TOAST Take 5 eggs, beat barely 

enough to mingle the yolks and whites, add ^ cup milk or cream, i 
teaspoon salt and ^ saltspoon pepper. Put 1 heaping tablespoon or 
butter into the blazer, and when melted add the egg mixture and 
stir until the egg is firm. Spread slices of toast with anchovy past, 
arrange them on a platter, and pour over the egg. 

CREAMED EGGS.- Heat together in the blazer 1 cup cream 
and 1 cup veal or chicken stock; add 5 eggs beaten together, stir un- 
til thick, season with salt and pepper and serve. 

CUPPED EGGS — Have boiling water in the water pan, set 2 or 
3 cups into it and when they are hot, break a couj^le of eggs into 
each one; cook 3 to 5 minutes with the cover on, season with pepper 
and salt and serve. This makes a delicate dish for invalids also, 

CURRIED EGGS.— Make a sauce with 2 tablespoons of butter, 
the same of flour, | teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon curry powder, 1 salt- 
spoon pepper and 2 cups milk; cook till smooth, stirring constantly. 



THE CHAFING DISH 619 

Pour it over 7 hard boiled eggs, cut into eighths, lengthwise, and 
serve. 

FRIED EQQS — Melt in the blazer 4 teaspoons butter; when 
hot, break in the eggs, one at a time; turn them over and cook the 
other side as soon as they set; season with pepper and salt, and 
serve. 

OMELETS — Beat together 4 eggs, add 1 scant cup milk, | tea- 
spoon salt and a dash of pepper; melt 4 teaspoons butter in the 
blazer, turn in the egg mixture and cook till set. To prevent its 
sticking slip a knife under the edge occasionally. When done, 
double it together carefully and serve. In cooking omelets it is 
best to use both pans, having boiling water in the lower one. 

Any kind of omelet can be made in this way by adding, before 
folding it, cheese, oysters, tomatoes, jelly, orange, mushrooms, or 
whatever one has on hand or desires to use. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS — In the blazer melt 1 tablespoon of but- 
ter; turn in ^ doz. eggs, beaten barely enough to mix the yolks and 
whites; stir constantly till thick and smooth; season with salt and 
pepper and serve. 

EGGS ON TOAST.— In the blazer melt 1 tablespoon butter; add 
4 beaten eggs, 4 teaspoons cream, | teaspoon salt, and a little black 
and red pepper; stir till smooth, pour it on toast or crackers and 
serve. 

VEGETABLES. 

ASPARAGUS. — (1) Boil stocks of asparagus in slightly salted 
water till tender. Time, about | hour. Drain, season, and serve 
either with melted butter or the " White Sauce " i^reviously given. 
(2) If canned asparagus is used wash it in cold water and drain; 
cook it in slightly salted water till heated through, drain, and serve 
the same way. 

CANNED LIMA BEANS.— Wash 1 can lima beans in cold 
water and drain; melt 2 tablespoons butter in the blazer, put in the 
beans, cook till thoroughly heated through, season to taste and 
serve. 

String Beans can be cooked the same way, but they take longer 
to cook than lima beans and are not so delicate 

CANNED CORN.— In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons butter; put 
in 1 can sweet corn, cook till thoroughly heated, season with pep- 
per and salt and serve. 

SUCCOTASH. — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons of butter. 
Wash 1 can lima beans in cold water, drain, and jDut tliem into 
the blazer; add 1 can of corn and cook, stirring constantly, until they 
are thoroughly heated through. Season with pepper and salt and 
serve. 

FRIED ONIONS.— In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons of butter; 
when hot, put in onions which have been peeled and cut into strips 



620 THE CHAFING DISH 

and cook till tender. Time, about 10 to 15 minutes. Season with 
salt and pepper and serve. Be careful that they do not burn. 

BRAISED MUSHROOMS.— In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons 
butter. Have mushrooms ready which have been washed and peeled, 
and when the butter is hot put them in, top down, and cook. Time, 
about ^ hour, Add pepper and salt to season, and serve plain or on 
toast, pouring over them the juice they were cooked in. Sprinkling 
on a little chopped parsley will be an improvement. 

CANNED GREEN PEAS — In the chafing dish melt 4 teaspoons 
butter; turn in 1 can of peas and stir continually until they are 
thoroughly heated. Season to taste and serve. It will toughen them 
if cooked too long. 

FRESH GREEN PEAS — Have | pint boiling water in the chaf- 
ing dish, and turn in 2 cups fresh young peas and boil till tender; 
then stir in two teaspoons butter, season with salt and pepper and 
serve. A little sugar will be an improvement, and cream if you 
have it. 

BOILED POTATOES — Put into the chafing dish thinly sliced 
potatoes, add enough boiling water to cover them, add a little salt, 
and boil till done. Time, about 20 minutes. Then drain, season 
with butter and salt and serve. Watch them while cooking and do 
not let them stick to the bottom of the pan. 

For Creamed Potatoes (1) boil as above, then drain and add 
milk or cream, bring it to a boil, add seasoning to taste and serve. 

Or (2) in the blazer melt 4 teaspoons butter and add 1 cup milk; 
when warm put in cold boiled potatoes, cut into dice, and cook till 
heated through; then stir in 2 teaspoons flour mixed with a little 
cold milk; as soon as it thickens add pepper and salt to season, and 
serve. Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES— In the blazer melt 4 teaspoons but- 
ter or dripping; when hot fry in it a small onion, sliced thin; then add 
cold boiled potatoes, also sliced, and fry them. Leave out the onions 
if they are not liked. Sprinkle on finely minced parsley before 
serving, if convenient. 

FRIED POTATOES.— In the chafing dish melt 4 teaspoons 
butter or chicken fat; when bubbling hot put in thinly sliced new 
potatoes, cook to a light brown, and serve. 

FRIED SWEET POTATOES.— In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons 
butter; when hot put in thin slices of cold boiled sweet potatoes; turn 
often and cook till thoroughly heated through. Season to taste and 
serve. 

DEVILED TOMATOES— Cream 2 tablespoons butter, add 1 tea- 
spoon powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon mustard, 1 saltspoon salt, and \ 
saltspoon pepper. Mash the yolk of 1 hard boiled egg, add 1 raw 
egg beaten slightly, and 1| tablespoons hot vinegar; cook until it 
thickens. Remove the skins from 3 tomatoes, cut them into thick 
slices, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry in but- 



THE CHAFING DISH 621 

ter. Pour the sauce over the tomatoes and serve. Firm canned 
tomatoes can be used if more convenient. 

FRIED TOMATOES.— Excellent with cold meat. Into the chaf- 
ing dish put 4 teaspoons butter; when melted put in thick slices of 
raw tomatoes and cook till tender, turning frequently; season with 
salt and pepper and serve. 

CREAMED TOMATOES.— Fry and season 6 raw tomatoes as 
above directed; when tender, stir in 1 cup rich milk or cream in 
which two heaping teaspoons of flour have been stirred; cook until 
it thickens, stirring constantly. Serve at once. 

CHEESE AND PANCAKES. 
CHEESE FONDU — In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; then 
add ^ pint milk, 1 pint grated cheese, | pint fresh bread crumbs, | 
teasxDoon of salt, a little pepper and a pinch of soda; cook till smooth. 
Time, about 5 or 6 minutes. Then stir in slowly 2 beaten eggs, 
cook 2 or 3 minutes and serve. Use both pans, with hot water in 
the lower one. Have everything ready before beginning to cook 
them. 

CHEESE WITH EGGS— Beat 5 eggs light, add 5 heaping tea- 
spoons of very dry, grated cheese, ^ teaspoon salt and a pinch of cay- 
enne. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the t3lazer, add the egg mixture 
and cook till thick, stirring constantly. Pour it on toast or crack- 
ers and serve. 

ENGLISH MONKEY — Soak 1 cup stale bread crumbs in 1 cup 
milk \ hour. Into the chafing dish put 1 heaping teaspoon butter, 
add ^ cuj) soft cream cheese cut fine, and stir until melted. Add the 
crumbs, with 1 beaten egg, | teaspoon salt, and a pinch of cayenne; 
cook 3 minutes, pour it on to toasted crackers and serve. 

WELSH RAREBIT — Into the blazer put 1 tablespoon butter 
and when melted add ^ lb. cheese cut fine, 1 saltspoon salt and \ 
saltspoon of cayenne. When creamy, add gradually -^ cup cream 
and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; pour it over thin crackers or wafers 
and serve. 

PANCAKES — Take 3 beaten eggs, -| cup flour, \ pint milk, 1 
teaspoon sugar and -| teaspoon salt; thoroughly mix all till smooth. 
In the blazer melt 1 teaspoon butter and when hot turn in a little of 
the batter; when done on one side turn and brown the other. Serve 
sprinkled with sugar or jelly. 



MEDICAL HINTS. 

IMPLE remedies for accidents and common diseases are most 
suitable for use in ordinary families, and simple things are 
(V)^ often the best. The following list of simple and effectual 
remedies which are well adapted for home use will be found 
of great value in any family, and will save our readers many 
doctor's bills as v/ell as much pain and suffering often, and possibly 
may even save a life. 

TO TAKE A PILL. — Drop it under the tongue and take a swal- 
low of water at once. Disagreeable pills can be taken in this way 
without tasting them. A well corked bottle is better than a box to 
keep pills in. 

Powders can be best taken mixed in jam, syrup, honey or milk. 

TO REMOVE THE TASTE OF NAUSEOUS MEDICINES FROM 
THE MOUTH. — Chew a piece of bread and then spit it out. 

ACIDITY OF THE STOMACH — Lime=water taken after each 
meal in doses of 1 to 2 oz. is excellent. Or (2) take one teaspoon of 
calcined magnesia in a wineglass of water. Or (3) eating a small 
quantity of dry rice will often correct it. (4) Relief will generally 
result from taking 10 grains of burnt carbonate of magnesia, 1 grain 
of powdered rhubarb and 1 grain of ginger in a little warm water 2 
or 3 times a day. 

ASTHMA — Dissolve in water all the saltpetre it will hold; dip 
blotting paper in this solution, and roll strips of it in the form of 
cones or cigars. When dry, burn them, letting the patient inhale the 
fumes. It often affords quick relief. Or (2) smoking the leaves of 
thorn-apple or jimpson weed, at the commencement of the attack, acts 
like magic with many people. 

BITES OF SNAKES.— Check the circulation of the blood by ty- 
ing a handkerchief, rope or something else, around the limb between 
the wound and the heart. At the same time suck the wound as hard 
as possible to draw out the poison, spitting out the blood at once. 
Also give whiskey, brandy or other liquor, a gill at a time, until in- 
toxication occurs. It is surprising how much liquor will be needed, 
but persevere until intoxication results. This is one of the few 
things that whiskey is good for. 

BLISTERS — Keep them from breaking if possible. To punc- 
ture them and draw off the fluid inside is a mistake. Bathe them in 
warm water, and cover with court plaster, or if very severe apply 
salve and then bind on a soft rag. 

BOILS. — Bind on a slice of ripe tomato; change frequently and 
burn the old slices. It affords speedy relief, is cool, soothing and 

t)22 



MEDICAL iiii\ib 623 

hastens the cure. (2) The skin peeled off of a boiled egg, moist- 
ened and applied, will draw off the matter in a few hours. 

If the tips of the fingers are wet with spirits of camphor or 
tincture of arnica and gently rubbed on the surface every 8 or 4 
hours, followed later by ohve oil, it will prevent a boil from coming 
to a head. 

BLACK EYE. — Apply at once whiskey, brandy or spirits of 
wine. Never apply cold water, except a little at first, but apply a 
cloth wrung out of hot water — as hot as it can be borne. 

BRUISES — Treat first same as directed above for "Black Eye." 
Later rub with hamamelis, or apply lard or butter. 

BUNIONS — These are caused by ilhfitting shoes. To cur 
lem, first get shoes which fit properly. If they are much irril.ilc.; 
pply v/arm fomentations and bathe with arnica. If, on their ihr'- 
appearance, the shoes are attended to and oxide of pulphur oint- 
ment is applied to the bunion each night, they are easily checked 
and prevented from becoming serious. 

BURNS AND SCALDS.— For slight burns apply a paste made by 
mixing common baking soda with a little water; then dust on dry so- 
da and bind on a light bandage. It affords almost immediate relief 
and stops the pain. Borax may be used instead, if more convenient. 

Burns by alkalies, like caustic potash, strong ammonia, soda, 
etc., should first have a dilute acid apxolied, like vinegar or lemon 
juice. The acid at once neutralizes the alkali; then treat the spot 
like any other burn. 

Burns from acids, like muriatic acid, oil of vitriol, etc., 
should have an alkali, like ammonia, soda or lime=water, applied at 
once to neutralize the acid. If these are not available, pouring on 
water dilutes the acid; or put on moist earth, which contains suf- 
ficient alkali to dilute the acid. Aftervv^ards treat like other burns. 

CANKERED SORE MOUTH AND THROAT.— Pulverize burnt 
alum and add equal amounts of sulphur and sugar; keep in a v;idc= 
mouthed bottle. Put a little on the sore spots and let it dissolve 
slowly. For the throat put it on the back of the tongue. 

CATARRH OR COLD — A teaspoon of warm honey taken every 
15 to 80 minutes affords great relief to colds and catarrh. A little 
can be kept in every house, and some taken at once on taking cold. 
(2) If, at the start, camphor is inhaled, or a little put on a lumiD of 
sugar and eaten, a cold can be broken up. (8) Inhaling aromatic 
spirits of ammonia will also often cure a catarrhal cold. 

CHAPS.— The best preventive is perfect dryness, especially be. 
fore going into the open air. To produce dryness, after washing and 
wiping, rub on cornmeal or chalk; then warm. An excellent applica- 
tion for chaps is glycerine 1 oz.; chalk 2 oz.; milk 5 oz.; mix and rub 
on. Vaseline or petroleum jelly is also good. 

CHILBLAINS. — These are usually caused by abrupt transitions 
from cold to heat. Do not warm very cold feet at the tire at once, 



624 MEDICAL HINTS 

but bathe them first in cold water. When chilblains appear rub 
them with a lotion made of 1 oz. of iodine in 3 oz. rectified spirits of 
wine ; apply with a brush not more than once a day. Apply tincture 
of myrrh in water to broken or ulcerated chilblains. Protect in- 
flamed chilblains from the friction of boots and shoes. 

CHOKING — (1) A marble or similar article in a child's throat 
may be dislodged by turning him heels upwards and shaking him. 

(2) Simple cases of choking are often relieved by merely striking on 
the back between the shoulders. (3) A hair-pin quickly straight- 
ened and bent at one end in the shape of a hook will sometimes serve 
to extract food, etc. (4) For a fish=bone or other substance in the 
throat at once insert a finger and press upon the root of the tongue 
so as to induce vomiting. If this fails let the patient swallow a piece 
of soft bread. Send for a physician at once. Repeatedly sucking 
lemons will help to dissolve a bone. 

CHOLERA INFANTUM — A teaspoon of milk and lime-water 
may be given every 20 or 30 minutes. It should be given cold. 
Lime-water may be given alone if the stomach will not tolerate the 
milk. In grave cases a few drops of brandy may be added. 

CHOLERA MORBUS.— Give pulverized chalk in tablespoon 
dos( s. Apply to the stomach flannel cloths wrung out of hot water 
and sprinkled with turpentine, changing them as fast as they cool; 
or apply tincture of cayenne or other stimulating application. The 
remedy given elsewhere for "Diarrhea" (which see) is also excel- 
lent. 

COLD SORES — These may often be prevented from developing 
by applying spirits of camphor on their first appearance. Cold 
cream (see page 885) is also a good application for them. 

COLIC — A teaspoon each of salt and finely pulverized black pep- 
per in a glass of cold water will almost always give relief. Then give 
a dose of rhubarb. Also applying hot cloths to the abdomen, and 
giving warm water injections are useful. 

CORNS. — These are caused by the friction of ill-fitting shoes. 
Hard corns may be killed by binding on at night a piece of lemon, 
half a cranberry, or some cracker crumbs soaked in strong vinegar; 
leave on all night and pare off the corn in the morning. Apply 2 or 
3 times if needed. 

For soft corns trim off the thicker skin with scissors, apply car- 
bolized vaseline, and wear a little cotton batting between the toes, 
changing it often. 

COUGH MIXTURE — (1) Melt together equal amounts of hoar- 
hound and rock candy, add an equal amount of glycerine, and flavor 
it with lemon extract. Take one teaspoonf ul at a time, as often as de- 
sired. Or (2) take juice of 2 lemons, 1 oz. honey, 1 bz. cod liver oil; 
mix thoroughly and after every fit of coughing take 1 teaspoon. Or 

(3) take 2 cups sugar, 1 cup vinegar, ^ cup honey, 1 cup boiling 
water; boil | hour; then add 5 cents worth of paregoric. 



MEDICAL HINTS 625 

CRAMP — Wind a band, like a cord or garter, abont tbe affected 
part, and tie it tightly by giving a sharp pull on the ends; it will hurt 
a little, but the cramp will disappear. Active friction with the hand 
is also often effective. 

CROUP — (1) Cut an onion in two and put a little sugar on one 
half; it will dissolve almost immediately. Then scoop up a little of 
the sweetened juice in a teaspoon and give it to the child. It will 
give almost instant relief. Or (2) produce vomiting by giving one 
teaspoon of alum sweetened with two teaspoons of sugar, syrup or 
molasses. It gives immediate relief. Then saturate a cloth with 
turpentine and apply it to the throat and chest, covering it with a 
dry cloth. 

CUTS AND WOUNDS. — The pain from common wounds may be 
quite speedily relieved by burning woolen cloth on a shovel of live 
coals and holding the injured part in the smoke for 15 or 20 minutes. 
The smoke from common brown sugar burned on coals in the same 
way is also good. These simple remedies often act like a charm, re- 
lieving the pain and hastening the cure. Then apply, carboli zed vas- 
eline, or wrap it ux3 in a cloth wet with dilute carbolic acid. 

DIARRHEA AND DYSENTERY— Take i oz. tincture of rhu- 
barb; ^ oz. sx^irits of camphor; ^ oz. of laudanum; -| oz. pepiDermint; 
^ oz. tincture of cayenne pepper; mix. Dose for an adult 15 to 30 
drops in a little water after each passage, according to age and the 
violence of the attack. In case of active dysentery reiDeat the dose 
every 15 or 20 minutes until relief is obtained. Dose for a child 5 
to 15 drops, according to its age. Probably the best and surest rem- 
edy. (This is sometimes called "The Sun Cholera Mixture.") 

DIPHTHERIA — Dissolve a tablespoon of flower of sulphur in a 
tumbler of water and gargle the throat with it frequently, swallow- 
ing a little each time. Snuff the mixture up the nose also if the 
patches extend there. If the patient cannot gargle, blow some flower 
of sulphur through a clay pix)e into the throat. Slake a lump of 
lime in the room and get the patient to inhale the fumes; or burn 
pitch on hot coals on a shovel and inhale tlie smoke. It dissolves 
the membrane. Give nourishing food like beef tea thickened with a 
little rice, eggs beaten up in milk, sago or arrowroot mixed with port 
or sherry, etc. It is not a disease to trifle with, so get the best medi- 
cal advice attainable. 

DIPHTHERITIC SORE THROAT, CURE FOR.— Take a ripe 
pine-apple, squeeze out the juice and give it to the patient. It af- 
fords much relief. 

EARACHE. — Pouring a few drops of laudanum into the ear 
(warm it by putting the bottle containing it into a vessel of hot 
water) and then covering it with cotton usually gives immediate 
relief. 

INSECT IN THE EAR.— Pour in a little glycerine or sweet or 
olive oil, wliichever is most convenient. This kills the insect, and it 
is easily removed later by a physician. 



626 MEDICAL HINTS 

EMETICS — To take a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of powdered 
alum is a speedy emetic. Or from 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of salt taken 
in a cup of hot water will usually cause vomitina:. If a stronger 
emetic is needed, taking from 1 scruple to -| a draclim of sulphate of 
zinc in 1 pint of warm water will rarely fail, 

FOR SORE AND INFLAMED EYES — (1) Take 2 grains sul- 
phate of zinc; 2 grains of hydrastis; 1 oz. rosewater; mix. Put 2 or 3 
drops of this in the inflamed eye every few hours. Dilute it with a 
little rain water if too strong. Dilute it also for children. (2) lor 
weak eyes take 8 grains sulphate of zinc; 10 drops tincture of opium; 
2 oz. water. Mix and apply 3 or 4 times a day. 

For inflamed eyelids the white of an egg beaten to a froth, with 
2 tablespoons of rosewater, is a good lotion. 

FOREIGN SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE.— (1) A spec of dirt 
will often be washed out by the flow of tears which follov/s: or put 
the eye into cold water and wink and roll the eyeball until the spec 
is washed out. (2) Lift out the upper eyelid with the fingers, draw 
it down over the lower lid and release it. Any substance adhering 
to the ujjper lid will thus be rubbed ofp by the lower one. (3) Put 
1 or 2 grains of flaxseed into the eye and leave them several hours, or 
over night. It can be done without harm or pain. They will form 
a glutinous substance about any foreign body and it will then wash 
out. This plan is simple and usually effective. 

FAINTING — The simplest and most effective treatment is to at 
once lower the head and lift the body so that the head hangs down; 
the blood then rushes to the head and consciousness returns. 

FATIGUE. — Ladies who are tired from the labors of their house- 
work will find a marked relief if they will lie down for 5 or 10 
minutes and spread over the face a cloth wrung out of hot water. It 
will brighten the eyes and smooth out the tired lines. 

FELON — Mix common rock salt and turpentine in equal parts, 
spread it on a cloth and bind it on the felon, renewing it as fast as 
it dries. In about 24 hours it will abort the felon. Or (2) make a 
salve by mixing good soft soap and cornmeal or flaxseed meal; put 
this on cloth and wrap it around the finger; renew it every 10 or 12 
hours. If applied in time it will abort the felon; if not, it will bring 
it to a small head which is easily pricked. 

FROSTBITES — To prevent too sudden reaction the person 
should be kept away from the heat. Rub the affected part vigorous- 
ly with snow, and afterwards with cold water, until reaction occurs, 
and in a room without a fire. Later, lard, sweet oil, or oil and lime- 
water can be applied. Putting the parts affected in salt and water 
(cold) for 25 or 80 minutes is good for slight frostbites. If any 
Bores follow treat them like burns. 

THE GRIPPE — It is said that asafetida taken 4 times a day, 
and 16 grains at a dose, will check the grippe at once. It can be 
bought at drug stores in capsules, and is perfectly harmless. It is as 
much a specific for the_grippe as quinine is for ague. 



MEDICAL HINTS 627 

GUMBOIL — Apply a roasted fig to the inflamed gum, as hot as 
it can be endured. Lance it as soon as matter is evident. 

HAY FEVER.— Take of carbolic acid 2|- drachms; ammonia 
water 3 drachms; distilled water 5 drachms; alcohol 7-| drachms; put 
all into a wide=mouthed 4 oz. vial; keep tightly closed when not in 
use. To use it inhale the fumes through the nostrils. It often works 
like a charm. 

HEARTBURN — Take 5 grains of aromatic powder and 12 
grains of bismuth; mix, and give 3 times a day. It will almost al- 
ways give relief. Alkalies if given habitually will weaken the 
stomach. Those troubled with heartburn should drink sparingly at 
meals, avoid the use of fatty foods, pastry and the too exclusive use 
of vegetables. Everything rich and indigestible should be avoided. 

HYSTERIA. — Loosen the clothes and admit an abundance of 
fresh air; then hold the mouth and nose closed and so stop the breath- 
ing for a short time. On releasing the hold a long breath is at once 
drawn which usually results in relaxing the spasm and ending the fit. 

FRUIT LAXATSVE— Chop fine ^ lb. of the best prunes, and ^ 
lb. figs; then add ^ oz. pure senna and molasses enough to make a 
thick paste; simmer on the stove about 20 minutes. Keep it in a 
cool place. A piece of this paste about the size of a hickory^nut 
makes an excellent laxative. Repeat in about 4 hours if necessary. 

HEADACHE — For nervous headaches and neuralgia the fol- 
lowing is an excellent remedy. Take a wide=mouthed glass stop- 
pered bottle, half fill it with soft sponge, and on this pour 3 drachms 
of a solution of bisulphide of carbon. Keep tightly closed. To use 
it remove the stopper and press the mouth of the bottle over the seat 
of the pain for 5 minutes. Press tightly against the skin so that 
none of the vapor can escape. After 1 or 2 minutes tingling is felt 
which in 3 or 4 minutes becomes rather severe, but it subsides at 
once when the bottle is removed. Any redness of the skin soon dis- 
appears. 

HICCOUGH — Moisten either granulated or brown sugar with 
vinegar and eat it. For infants give but little at a time; or a little 
milk and water is usually sufiicient for them. Speedy relief follows. 

HOARSENESS — (1) Beat up 2 fresh eggs, thicken them with 
sugar, add a little lemon juice or vinegar, and eat a little frequently; 
it will soon give relief . Or (2) infuse a little finely scraped horse^ 
radish in a little water for 2 hours in a close vessel, and then atld 
double its weight of sugar; take a tablespoonful at a dose and it will 
give speedy relief. 

HIVES. — Castor oil applied with the tips of the fingers to the 
pustules will give speedy relief to the itching. So will baking soda 
dissolved in warm soft water. Then take 1 cup molasses; 1 tablespoon 
()i- :.:il;)linr; 1 teaspoon cream of tartar; mix. Take 1 teaspoon each 
I:. .1 .i: -• l-.'foro breakfast until relieved. 



628 MEDICAL HINTS 

ITCH. — Dissolve ^ oz. of glycerine and 1 drachm of carbolic 
acid in 8 oz. of pure water. Apply a few times and it will cure it. 

LINIMENTS — (1) Take 2 oz. olive oil and 1 oz. of solution of 
ammonia; mix. Useful for sore throats, bruises and sprains. (2) 
Thoroughly beat 1 egg, then add 1 teacup each of turpentine and 
good cider vinegar, put them in a bottle and shake very thor- 
oughly. Excellent for rheumatism, etc. A little put on a flannel, 
laid on where the pain is worst and covered with oiled silk will give 
almost instant relief. 

MEASLES. — An ordinary attack requires no other treatment 
than to keep the bowels open, use cooling drinks like lemonade, bar- 
ley water, etc., the daily use of the warm bath and confinement in a 
moderately warm {not exceedingly hot), well ventilated room. After 
the disease has subsided the patient should have easily digested 
food, be kept warmly clad, and not allowed to go out of doors too 
soon. If symptoms of bronchitis, pneumonia, etc., appear, a physi- 
cian should be summoned at once. 

SORE MOUTH.— One drachm of sulphite of soda to 1 oz. of 
water used as a gargle will soon check ulcerated or inflamed mouth. 

NURSINQ SORE MOUTH.— Gargle the mouth 3 or 4 times a 
day with a solution of borax, or a iceak solution of carbolic acid. 
Also take a tonic like chloride of iron and quinine. 

NETTLE RASH.— This comes usually from indigestible food. 
In an acute attack take an emetic to get rid of the otfending sub- 
stance. This should be followed by a laxative (see " Fruit Laxa- 
tive " ) and a light diet, and the article which caused it should be 
avoided thereafter. A few grains of rhubarb, or of rhubarb and 
magnesia mixed, taken daily just before breakfast and dinner has 
often cured chronic cases of long standing. 

NEURALGIA. — The following remedy has often proved success- 
ful : Take 25 grains of bromide of potassium ; 1 draclim of syrup of 
orange; 10 drops tincture of nux vomica; 1^ oz. water; mix and take 
3 times a day. Take also a i)ill containing 2 grains of quinine with 
each draught. See also " Headache." 

NOSE, BLEEDING FROM.— (1) Put the feet in water as hot as 
can be borne. This will usually stop it. Or (2) roll up a piece of 
linen, saturate it with hamamelis or alum and stuff it up the nostril 
(3) Chew something, shutting the jaws tightly together. (4) Apply 
cold water or ice to the back part of the neck, the forehead and root 
of the tongue. — Do not bend the head over the basin as that favors 
the bleeding, but receive the blood on a wet sponge or cloth. 

FOREIGN BODIES IN THE NOSE.— Have the child draw a 
deep breath, then ]3lace one hand over his mouth and a finger against 
the empty nostril, and strike a sharp blow on his back, thus suddenly 
forcing the air from the lungs through his nose. It will usually 
force the substance out. 



MEDICAL HINTS 629 

POISONS.— The first effort should usually be to rid the system 
of the poison, if possible, and then try to overcome its effects. Send 
for a physician at once, and in the meantime treat as follows: 

For acids, like carbolic acid, oxcdic acid, salts of sorrel, salt of 
lemon, acetic acid, etc., or for creosote, give an emetic (see "Emetics," 
page 879,) followed by chalk or whitmg in water, or lime water, and 
white of egg. 

For alkalies, like ammonia, lime, pearlash, potash, smelling 
salts, etc., give water containing vinegar or lemon juice, then salad 
or sweet oil, milk, white of egg, gruel. 

For opium, laudanum, paregoric, morphine, and other jjrepara- 
tions of opium, or henbane, or belladonna, give an emetic, (see 
" Emetics," page 879), then strong coffee; keep av/ake with active 
motion. 

For arsenic, parts green, rough on rats, etc., phosphorus, 
matches, scdtpetre, turpentine, or furniture polish, give an emetic, 
(see " Emetics," page 879), then white of egg, flour and water, or 
milk. 

POISON DOGWOOD — When the skin is poisoned by this, apply 
a weak solution of sugar of lead, or dilute citric acid. 

POSSON IVY — When the skin is poisoned with ivy, apply a 
weak solution of carbolic acid, or sugar of lead. Dilute citric acid or 
sweet spirits of nitre applied freely are also good. Water as hot as 
it can be borne, applied freely as often as the itching returns, will 
afford relief. 

PRICKLY HEAT, — This occurs in hot countries, and in extreme- 
ly hot weather. The treatment is to open the bowels, eat temper- 
ately, dress lightly, and keep quiet during the heat. To relieve the 
itching, especially in children, bathe the skin with warm water con- 
taining .a little common baking soda. 

PROUD FLESH. — Apply pulverized loaf sugar, or pulverized 
burnt alum. 

RETCHING. — Take | wineglass of pure lemon juice, just enough 
salt of tartar to destroy the acidity, and take 1 teaspoon frequently 
until the retching stops. 

RINGWORM.— Apply 1 part carbolic acid in 2 parts water; leave 
on 30 or 40 seconds, and then wash it off with tepid water. This will 
cure it. 

SALT RHEUM.— An ointment of 15 to 30 grains of chryso- 
phanic acid to each ounce of cosmoline will often cure even obstinate 
cases. Apply it after a warm bath 

SALVE.— Take etiual quantities of beeswax, fresh pure butter, 
white diachylon, elder^flower water, sweet oil. and palo brandy; nu>lt 
all together in an earthen jar. and keep stirring until nearly cold. 
Keep it in a glass jar. Invaluable for sores of any kind. 



630 MEDICAL HINTS 

SEA SICKNESS. — Of all the drugs proposed at various times 
for this distressing complaint, bromide of sodium is the best. Take 
10 grain doses 3 times a day for several days before going on to the 
water, and it will generally prevent an attack. 

SLEEPLESSNESS.— (1) Take a sharp walk for about 20 min- 
utes before retiring; or (2) just before retiring, sponge the surface 
of the body with very hot water; or (3) take a cold bath followed by 
vigorous friction; or (4) treat the feet and legs in either of these 
ways. These methods draw the blood to the extremities and away 
from the head, and so induce sleep. On waking up in the night, rise 
and smartly rub the body and extremities with the hands or a brush 
or towel, to thoroughly start the circulation, and afterwards one will 
often soon fall asleep. These plans are much better than using 
drugs. 

SNORING. — This is caused by sleeping with the mouth open. If 
the nose is stopped up at night clear it out well, using snuff if neces- 
sary. A bandage around the lower jaw and over the head will serve 
to keep the mouth closed and render snoring impossible, Nurses by 
holding the lips of children together for a few minutes when they 
are falling asleep can prevent their forming the habit. 

SPRAINS — First ax^ply water, as hot as can be borne, for 15 or 
20 minutes; then apply hot poultices of bran or oatmeal and vine- 
gar. Give the injured part perfect rest, and keep it in an elevated 
position. Rub it night and morning with kerosene and vaseline 
mixed, or with the second liniment given among our Liniments 
(which see). Later on, if not quite right, apply a douche of cold 
salt water, continuing it till the part aches a little, and then rub it 
briskly with a towel to cause reaction. This will help it very much. 

SORE THROAT — Take 1 oz, each of borax, sugar, and chlorate 
of potash; dissolve them in 1 quart of water, and use it as a gargle. 
Excellent. Also, before going to bed, fold a towel in 2 or 3 folds, 
wet one end in water, lay it on the throat and wrap the balance of 
the towel around the neck and pin it securely. Leave it on all night. 
In the morning sponge off the neck with cold water and wipe it 
dry. A harmless and excellent remedy. 

SUBSTANCES SWALLOWED BY MISTAKE.— Make the pa- 
tient eat three good sized slices of bread, and swallow 4 tablespoons 
of flour and water made into a fairly thick mass; then give an emetic 
and the swallowed article will come up entangled* in the tenaceous 
vomit. (For an emetic see " Emetics.") 

SUFFOCATION — Remove the patient at once to the fresh air, 
lay him on his back and loosen the clothing about his neck and 
chest. Dash cold water on the face and chest. Keep up the warmth 
of the body and apply mustard plasters over the heart and around 
the ankles. If these means fail, try artificial respiration as soon as 
possible. 



TOILET HINTS. 

FACE POWDER — Finely powdered rice is as simple, harmless 
and good as any powder to use. Calcined magnesia is harmless, 
and so are chalk and cascarrilla except for their mechanical action 
in stopping the pores of the skin. Any powder when used should 
be washed off at night before retiring. Never apply any substance 
to the face containing any metallic powders or earthy substances. 
The great majority of the cosmetics so widely advertised are posi- 
tively injurious and we unhesitatingly advise against their use. 

BLACK HEADS — These are not animals, but merely the greasy 
matter secreted by the glands of the skin. The best treatment is to 
soften them by applying a little glycerine and then squeeze them 
out by pressing any flat^ blunt instrument against the skin, and mov- 
ing it along slowly. Any redness thus caused may be overcome by 
applying equal parts of glycerine and prepared chalk. Bathing the 
parts affected with ammonia is a good preventive. 

COLD CREAM. — The best formula for cold cream is as follows: 
— Take of pure white wax 1 oz.; spermaceti 2 oz.; almond oil \ pint. 
Mix these together in a glazed earthenware dish over a gcrdle heat, 
stirring, while melting, with a silver or glass spoon. When melted 
add 3 oz. glycerine and 10 drops attar of roses. Then strain through 
muslin, and, as it cools, stir it to a snowy whiteness. The secret of 
making fine cold cream is to stir it and beat it well all the time it is 
cooling. 

FRECKLES — When caused by the sun, touch them with nitre 
(saltpetre) moistened with water and applied with the finger; apply 
three times a day and they will soon disappear. Or ( 2 ) apply 5 or 
6 times a day a strong solution of borax and rosewater. Or (8) apply 
a lotion made of equal parts of glycerine and lactic acid. 

MOTH PATCHES, MASK, MORPHFW AND HEPATIC SPOTS. 

— Mix 8 oz. rosewater and 80 grains of chlorate of potash; wash the 
face with it 2 or 8 times a day. Avoid ri( h and greasy food, take 
outdoor exercise, and keep the bowels regular. 

MOLES For small moles apply the acid nitrate of mercury. 

For large ones electricity is best, but consult a physician. 

PROFUSE AND OFFENSIVE PERSPIRATION.— Wash the 
troublesome parts under the arms, the feet, etc., with one part boracic 
acid in 20 parts of water. Also dust on the underclothes, over the 
affected parts, a preparation of boracic acid mixed with starch, 

PIMPLES.^These usually indicate that the system is out of 
order, and should rather be treated by proper diet and remedies than 

631 



632 TOILET HINTS 

by local applications. If an application is desired, take 1 oz. sperm- 
aceti ointment, 2 drachms glycerine and 2 oz. bicarbonate of soda; 
mix and apply, 

SUNBURN. — Apply frequently a solution of equal parts of lime 
juice and olive oil. Rubbing the hands, face, etc., with almond oil, 
cold cream or vaseline before being exposed to the sun or wind will 
largely prevent their unpleasant effect. 

TAN.— This may be removed by applying glycerine and lemon 
juice mixed together. Or (2) take magnesia wet with clear water and 
worked to a thick paste and rub it on. 

WARTS — Rubbing warts with a fresh slice of Irish potato, or 
with fresh lemon juice will often cure them in a short time. Or 
(2) apply strong carbolic acid carefully with a brush 3 or 4 times a 
day and they will disappear in 1 or 2 weeks. (3) A dose of sulphate 
of magnesia taken daily will cure warts in a short time often. 

DANDRUFF. — Wash the head once a day with 1 oz. borax and 
1 oz. glycerine in 1 pint of warm soft water. 

TO PROMOTE GROWTH OF HAIR — Take the yolk of 1 egg, 
1 pint of rain water and 1 oz. rosemary spirit. Mix thoroughly, use 
warm and rub well into the scalp with the fingers. Apply twice a 
week. It softens the scalp, removes dandruff, and makes the hair 
smooth and glossy. 

HAIR FALLING OUT.— Wet the head occasionally with salt and 
water and it will check it. Or (2) dissolve 15 grains of bicarbonate 
of soda in 1 oz. water; rub it into the scalp daily, and persevere with 
it. (3) Rub pure grease in thoroughly every night or two. This 
often causes a new growth of hair, and it cures dandruff. 

BANDOLENE. — Dissolve 1 drachm of gum arable and 2 oz. 
borax in 1 quart hot water; then add 3 tablespoons of tincture of 
camphor. Apply on retiring and do the hair up in curl papers. 

OFFENSIVE BREATH — For immediate, temporary relief, gar- 
gle the mouth and throat with 1 part bromo-chloralum in 8 or 10 
parts water. The principal causes are bad teeth, a disordered stomach 
and catarrh, and permanent relief must come by reaching the cause 
and curing it. 

The odor of onions is removed by taking a cup of strong coffee. 
Or eat parsley with vinegar. 

The odor of tobacco may be relieved by taking 1 teaspoon tinc- 
ture of myrrh, ^ teaspoon spirits of camphor, 1 pint of hot water and 
a little borax; mix, and use 2 tablespoons of this in \ tumbler of 
water to wash the teeth. 

A TOOTH POWDER — Take 4 oz. powdered charcoal; 2 oz. 
powdered cuttle-fish bone; 1 oz. myrrh; 1 oz. orris root; mix, and 
use as needed. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED 
IN COOKERY. 



Appetisants ( A-pay-tee-zan ). — Small 
savories served before or between the 
courses of a dinner. 

Aspic. — A savory jelly, used mostly for 
garnishing. 

Assiette (ass-yett). — Small entrees not 
exceeding what one plate will hold. 
At dessert, fruits, cheese, etc., if 
served on a plate, are termed ass- 
iettes. 

Attelets or Hatelets (hay-t-lay). — Small 
skewers. When of silver or plated 
they are used in dishing up food. 

Au Bleu, — (o-bleu). — Fish dressed in 
such a manner as to have a bluish 
appearance. 

Au Gras (o-gra). — Dressed with meat 
stock, 

Au Gratin (o-gratin). — Prepared with 
bread crumbs. 

Au Jus (o-joo). — In the natural juice 
or gravy. 

Au Naturel (o-na-tu-rel). — Plain, 
simple cookery; or anything served 
raw, like oysters. 

Bain - Marie (ban ma-ree). — A metal 
pan which has a loose bottom to 
hold hot water, into which small 
vessels can be set to keep their con- 
tents warm. 

Barde(bar-d). — A thin slice of fat bacon^ 
used, when preferred, instead of lard- 
ing, to cover meat, poultry, etc. 

Barder (bar-day). — To bard. 

Barole (bar-oil). — A thin slice of fat 
bacon placed on steaks, fowls, etc., 
instead of larding. 

Baron of Meat. — Two sirloins, or hind 
quarters, not cut apart. 



Baste. — To sprinkle on flour and salt, 
or pour on butter or fat — as on meat 
when roasting. 

Batterie de Cuisine (ba-ter-ee-de-kwe- 
zi-n). — A complete set of cooking 
apparatus. 

Bechamel (bay-sha-mell). — A white 
sauce. 

Beignet (bain-yay). — Another name for 
fritter. 

Bisque (bisk). — A shell*fish soup. 

Blanc (blanh). — White. Any procesa 

to give a more delicate appearance 

-as to whiten poultry, etc. Blan- 

chir. To whiten poultry, fruit, veg- 

taables, etc. 

Blanch. — To plunge anything into boil- 
ing water for a few minutes. 

Blanquette (blanh-kett). — Thin slices 
of white meat of any kind, warmed 
up in a white sauce and thickened 
with yolks of eggs. 

Blignir (bleen-yay). — To fritter any- 
thing in butter and egg and fry. 

Bonbon (bon-bon). — Sweetmeats. 

Bouchees (boo-shay). — Mouthfnls. 
Small patties filled with various 
preparations, 

Boudin (boo-dan). — Delicate dishe^ 
prepared from forcemeat, etc. 

Bouillabaise (boo-ya-base), — A fish 
soup. 

Botdlli (boo-ee). — Meat (usually beef) 
which is stewed a long time. 

Bouillic (boo-yce), — A French dish re- 
sembling hasty pudding. 

Bouillon (boo-yohn), — Broth or stock; 
the common soup of France; the 
liquor from the boilli. 



633 



634 



GLOSSARY 



Bouquet of Herbs (bo-kay).— Parsley, 
onion, thyme and a bay leaf tied to- 
gether ; used for seasoning soups, etc. 

Bouquet Garni, or Assaisonne (as-sai- 
zon-ay)is the same as the foregoing, 
■with the addition of cloves or aro- 
matic herbs. 

Braise (brayz). — To cook in a closely, 
covered dish or braising pan. 

Bruiser. — To stew meat in a braising 
pan. 

Braisiere (brayz-yair). — A pan used for 
braising. 

Brawn. — Flesh of a boar. Also the 
salted and prepared flesh or head of 
a pig. 

Brioche (bree-osh). — A very light bun= 
like cake. Baioche au couronne is a 
broche in the form of a crown or 
ring. 

Brisket (bris-ket) — The breast of meat, 
or the part lying n«xt the ribs. 

Brider (bree-day). — To pass a thread 
through poultry, game, etc., to keep 
the parts together. 

Brunoise (broon-warze). — Clear soup 
with vegetables. 

Cafe au lait (ka-fay-o-lay). — Coffee 
with milk. 

Cafi Noir (ka-fay-nwar). — Strong, 
black coffee. 

Caisse (kase). — A little case of paper 
or china in which various savories 
are served. 

Calipash (kal-e-pash). — The glutinous 
substance or meat fSund in the up- 
per shell of a turtle. 

Calipee (kal-e-pee). — The glutinous 
flesh found in the lower shell of a 
turtle. 

Canajye (kan-nap). — A small savory; a 
round crouton with a puree in it. 

Cannelons (kan-lohn). — Little rolls of 
pastry variously filled. 

Capilotade (ka-pee-lo-tad). — A hash of 
cooked meat or poultry. 

Capon (ka-pon). — A chicken gelded 
and fattened for the table. 

Caramel. — Sugar heated to 420° F. 
when it loses its power of crystal- 



lization and acquires a dark brown 
color and a bitter flavor. 

Casserole (kas-role). — A crust of rice, 
potato, etc., which is to be filled 
with a ragout or other preparation. 
Also a stew pan. 

Caul (kaul). — A membrane surround- 
ing most of the lower intestines. 

Caviar (ka-ve-arr). — A preparation 
of the roes of certain fish. 

Charlotte (shar-lot). — Thin slices of 
bread steeped in clarified butter and 
placed in regular order and gar- 
nished. They are entremets. 

Chartreuse (shar-treuz). — A dish made 
in a mold which is lined in various 
ways. 

Chaufroids (show-fro-war). — Entrem- 
ets; a thick sauce for purposes of 
masking. 

Chine (kine). — A piece of the back 
bone of an animal. 

Choux (shoo). — Small French cakes. 

Civet (see-va). — A thick, rich stew of 
hare or rabbit. 

Clouter (klou-te). — To insert nail 
shaped pieces of tongue etc., into 
meat or poultry; to put cloves in 
meat. 

Collop (kol-lop). — A small, thin, round 
slice of poultry or meat. 

Comfits (kon-fits).— Confections; sweet- 
meats. 

Confitures (kon-fee-ture). — Preserves, 
sweetmeats, jams, etc. 

Compote (kom-pot). — A stew of fruit, 
vegetables, etc. 

Consomme (kon-som-may). — ^A strong, 
clear soup. 

Coquilles (ko-kee-ye). — Shell«shaped 
dishes for serving oysters and other 
savories. 

Couronne, En (koo-ron). — To serve 
anything like fritters, etc., in the 
shape of a crown or ring. 

Cover. — The place at table arranged 
for each guest. 

Crackling. — The rind of roast perk. 

Crepes (kreeps). — A kind of pan^cake. 



GLOSSAKY 



635 



Croquantees (kro-kan-te). — A bright 
mixture of fruit and boiled sugar. 

Croquettes (kro-kets). — A preparation 
of minces of meat, etc., flavored and 
fried in any desired shape. The 
word signifies something crisp. 

Croustades (kroos-tard). — Rich pie 
crust or paste, baked in ornamental 
shapes and filled witli minces, etc. 

CroUte (krou-t). — Crusts or cakes. 

CroMons (kru-tong). — Fried sippets 
of bread used for garnishing. 

Cullis (kul-lis). — A strong broth of 
meat, strained and made clear. 
Also a savory jelly. 

Curacoa (kur-a-so). — A flavoring 
extract made from oranges. (See 
"Extracts and Flavorings "). 

Curry (kur-ry). — A kind of sauce con- 
taining pepper and other strong 
spices. Also a stew of fowl, fish, 
etc., cooked with curry sauce. 

Dariole (da-re-ol). — Custard, cream= 
cake, or a sweet tart baked in a 
dariole mold. 

Dartwois (dar-twor). — A French puflf= 



Daube (doe-b). — Stewed meat. En 
daube, is meat, fowl or game stewed 
in sauce. 

Daubiere (doe-bee-air). — An oval 8tew= 
pan. 

Dauphins (doe-fen). — Tartletts filled 
with preserves. 

D&sosser (das-os-say). — To take the 
bones out of meat, poultry, etc. 

Doree (doe-ray). — Egg beaten up and 
brushed over pastry to give it a 
golden hue. 

Dorure (doe-roor). — Literally gilding. 
Well beaten yolks of eggs used to 
give surfaces a golden or yellow 
color. Dorer, to gild with the fore- 
going. 

Dresden Patties. — Same as croustades, 
which see. 

J^clair (a-klair). — A small, light cake. 

J^ntrSes (on-tray). — The made dishes 
which follow the first course at a 
meal. 



Entremet (on-tre-may). — Small side 
dishes, usually ornamental, served 
during the second course. Entre- 
mets Sucre, are sweet entremets, and 
include cakes, puddings, etc. 

JEJpigramme or Epigram (ep-e-gram). — 
An entree in which two materials 
are placed alternately in a ring. 

Escallopes. — Same as collops which 
see. 

Espagnole (es-pa-gnol). — A rich, 
brown, Spanish sauce. 

Fagot. — A small bunch of thyme, pars- 
ley, etc., tied together. 

Farce (fars). — Forcemeat or stuffing. 

Feuilletage (few-e-tazh). — Puff paste. 

Fillet (fil-let). — A piece of meat, game 
or fish cut into a string=^like form. 
Also the under cut of a sirloin of 
beef. 

Financier e (fee-nan-ce-air). — A highly 
flavored ragout or sauce. 

Flamber (flom-bay). — To singe fowl 
or game after being picked. 

Flan (flan). — A French custard. 

Fiance (flarn-s). — Side dishes for 
dinner. 

Flaun. — Small pastry, much like tarts. 

Florentines (flor-an-tin). — Light pastry 
meringued over. 

Flummery. — Originally a sort of pap 
made of flour or meal; now a light 
food made of various ingredients. 

Fondant (fon-dahn). — Literally melt- 
ing; a candy preparation to be 
melted when used. 

Fondue (fon-doo).— A dish made with 
melted cheese. 

Forcemeat. — Mixtures, principally of 
bread crumbs, herbs and suet, 
chopped together very fine and fla- 
vored. 

Frappi (frap-pay).— Meaning literally 
to pack in ice boxes; hence applied 
to beverages partly frozen by being 
packed in ice. 

Frangipanc (frarn-go-pann). — A kind 
of pastry containing cream and 
almonds. 



636 



GLOSSARY 



Fricandeaux (free-kon-doe). — A piece 
of meat larded and braised; served 
nsTially as an entree. 

Fricassee (fric-as-say). — Fowls, etc., cut 
in pieces and fried. 

Fritter (frit-ter). — Anything coated 
•with egg, batter, etc., and fried. 

Friture (fri-ture). — The substance used 
for frying fritters; frying fat or 
pan; fried meat or fish. 

Galantine (ga-lan-tin). — Fish, meat, 
poultry, etc., boned, stuffed, cooked, 
and variously garnished. 

Galette (ga-let). — A broad thin cake — 
a kind of muffin. 

Garniture (gar-ni-ture ). — The garnish- 
es or adjuncts to a dish. 

Gateau (ga-toe). — Cake, literally; used 
often to denote a pudding, or a kind 
of tart. 

Gaufres (go-fers). — Waffles; wafers; 
light, spongy biscuit. 

Genoises (ge-nwor-s). — Small cakes 
made of French paste. 

Giblets (gib-lets). — The parts of a fowl 
which are removed before cooking, 
as the heart, liver, gizzard, etc. 

Glace or Glaze (glass). — Anything iced. 
In confectionery to cover fruits, 
etc., with sugar which glistens when 
hardened. Also stock boiled down 
thick; used to improve the appear- 
ance of braised dishes. 

Glacer. — To apply the foregoing glaze. 

Godiveau (go-de-vo). — Savory force- 
meats, used for entrees, etc. 

Grenadines (gren-aw-din). — Stewed 
meat; also a dish similar to force- 
meat. 

Granites (grah-nit). — A beverage com- 
posed of light syrup and the juice 
of various fruits. 

Gr'as (grah). — Fat. A^i gras, means 
dressed with meat gravy. 

Gratin (gra-tin). — Meat, fish, etc., co- 
vered with crumbs and browned. 

Griskin (gris-kin). — The spine of a 
hog. 

Haricot (har-e-ko).— Beans. Also a 
etew of vegetables aad meat; origi- 



nally a dish of meat with harcots — ■ 
hence the name. 

Harslet (hars-let).^ — The heart, liver, 
etc., of an animal. 

Hartlet (hart-let). — A small wooden or 
metal skewer. 

Hors d' ceitvres (hor-deu-vrr). — Small 
side dishes served after the soup or 
fish. They are considered as appe- 
tizers, and consist of sardines, an- 
chovies, cheese souffles, etc. 

HucJde. — The hip. The huckle bone is 
the thigh bone. 

Jardiniere (zhar-deen-yaire). — A mixed 
preparation of vegetables stewed 
down in their own sauce. 

Julienne (ju-lien). — Clear soup, con- 
taining vegetables cut in strips. 

Jugged. — Boiled or stewed in a jug; 
thus jugged hare is a dish prepared 
from stewed hare. 

Kirswasser (keersh-was-ser). — A liquor 
obtained from fermented black cher- 
ries. 

Knuckle.— The knee joint, especially 
of a calf, as a knuckle of veal. 

Kromeskies (kro-mees-kees). — A Rus- 
sian dish, prepared from croquettes 
wrapped in bacon and fried. 

Lard. — French for Bacon; hence to 
stuff bacon into meat, poultry, etc. 
The larding jmn is the vessel used 
in larding. 

Lardons or Lardoons. — The pieces of 
bacon, pork, etc., used in larding 

• meat. 

Liaison (le-a-zon). — Literally a bind- 
ing together; hence a mixture of 
cream, eggs, etc., used to bind and 
thicken soups and sauces. 

Legumes (le-gume). — From the Latin 
legere, to pluck. Applied generally 
to vegetables which can be gathered 
by plucking, like lettuce, aspara- 
gus, etc. 

Lights. — The lungs of an animal. 

Lit (le). — Literally a bed qr a layer; 
hence slices in layers, with seasoning 
between. 



GLOSSARY 



637 



Luting (In-ting). — A paste used to 
" lute " or fasten the lids on dishes 
of potted game, etc. 

Macaroon (mak-a-roon). — A small, 
sweet cake. 

Macedoine (ma-see-do-an). — A mixture 
of fruits or vegetables. 

Madeleine (mad-e-leen). — A cake similar 
to pound cake. 

Maigre (may-gre). — Dishes made -with- 
out meat. 

Maitre d' hotel (me-ter-dotel). — The 
steward. A la maitre de hotel, is 
literally in the housekeeper's or 
steward's manner. 

Maraschino (mar-as-kee-no). — A fla- 
voring extract made from cherries. 
(See " Extracts and Flavorings.") 

Marble. — To glaze any dish by sprink- 
ling with sugar and then burning it 
with a hot salamander or omelet 
shovel. 

Marinade (mar-e-nade). — A liquor in 
which to steep meat, fish, etc., to 
heighten the flavor. 

Marinate, (mar-e-nate). — To steep 
anything in a marinade. 

Marmalade (mar-ma-lade). — A preserve 
made of quince or other fruit. 

Mask. — To entirely cover an article 
with any preparation. 

Matelot (ma-t-low). — A fish stew, with 
wine. 

Maw. — The stomach of one of the 
lower animals. 

Mayonnaise (may-on-aze). — A sauce or 
salad dressing, made of oil, etc. 

Mazarines (ma-zar-reen). — Same as 
"turbans," which see. 

Menage (me-nazh). — Family; house- 
hold; housewife. 

Menu (men-oo). — The bill of fare. 

Meringue (mer-rang). — A kind of icing 
made of sugar and eggs beaten to- 
gether. 

Merepoix (me-ra-pwah). — Essence of 
meat and vegetables. 

Mirleton (meer-le-ton). — Tartlets made 
of chocolate, almonds, pistachio 
nuts, or with preserves and jams. 



Mirotin (me-ro-ton). — Slices of meat, 
larger than coUops; the meat served 
in a ring. 

Montylas (mon-glar). — A preparation 
of poultry, game, etc., chopped, 
mixed with naushrooms, etc., and 
thickened with sauce. 

Mouiller (moo-yay). — Literally to wet; 
to add water or broth during cook- 
ing. 

Mouse (moose). — The piece of beef cut 
from the part next below the round; 
also called the mouse=buttock. 

Mousse (moose). — Literally moss; a 
preparation of cream, sugar, etc., 
frozen; much like ice cream. 

Nougat (noo-ga). — A cake made of al- 
monds and sugar. 

Noodles (nu-dles). — A mixture of flour 
and eggs cut in strips and boiled. 

Noyau (nwa-yo). — A flavoring extract 
made from almonds. (See "Ex- 
tracts and Flavorings .") 

Nudels. — Same as noodles. 

Omelette (om-let). — Derived from the 
French oeufs meler, meaning ming- 
led eggs. Omelette souffle is a puffed 
up omelette. Omelette aux confi- 
tures, contains jellies and other 
sweets. 

Orgeaie (or-zha). — A beverage made 
with sugar, almonds and water. 

Panada (pa-na-da). — A mixture of 
bread, milk, etc., used in making 
forcemeats. Also bread or crackers 
soaked in water or milk and season- 
ed. 

Paner (pa-nay). — To cover with egg 
and bread crumbs. 

Papillotes (pa-pee-yot). — Cutlets, etc., 
cooked and sent to the table in 
papers. 

Parmesan (par-me-zan). — Parmesan 
cheese. 

Parboil (par-boil). — To boil moder- 
ately or in part. 

Pamire (pan-nure). — Cutlets, cro- 
quettes, etc., which are covered with 
bread crumbs. 



'638 



GLOSSARY 



Pdti (pa-tay). — A small pie. Pat6 de 
foie gras is literally a pie of fat liver. 

Patty or Patties. — Small pies. 

Paupiettes (po-pe-et). Slices of meat, 
rolled. 

Petits Fours (pee-tee-foor). — Small 
cakes. 

Piccalilli (pik-ka-lil-Ii). — An East 
Indian dish of pungent spices, etc. 

Piice de Resistance (pace de ra-zis- 
tarnce). — The principal dish of the 
dinner. 

Pilaff (pe-laf). — Same as pilau. 

Pilau or Pillau (pil-low). — A Turkish 
dish consisting of stewed rice with 
meat or poultry. 

Piping (pi-ping), — Ornamenting pas- 
try, etc., with a piping tube. 

Piquer (pee-kay). — To lard meat. 

Pluck. — The heart, liver and lights of 
an animal. 

Poele (po-ell). — Stock used for boil- 
ing fowls, etc. 

Posset (pos-set). — To curdle; a bever- 
age compound of curded milk, etc. 

Potage (po-taj). — Soup. 

Pot'au'Feu (pote-o-few). — Literally the 
pot on the fire; hence the stock pot 
for soup; also now applied to the 
broth made in the pot. 

P rintanier (prin-ta-ne-ay). — Clear 
soup, with spring vegetables of 
various kinds. 

Puree (pu-ree). — Vegetables, meat, etc., 
reduced to a pulp and mixed with 
liquid to make a thick soup. 

Quenelle (kee-nel). — Delicate forcemeat 
formed into balls and poached. 

Ragout (ra-goo). — A rich stew of meats, 
etc. 

Raisine (ray-ze-nay). — A French jam 
compounded of fruits, etc. 

Ramequins (ram-kin). — An entremet, 
made from cheese, puff paste, etc. 

Ravigote (ray-ve-go). — A rich white 
sauce. 

RechauffS (ray-shuw-fee). — Literally 
reheated; hence meat, etc., rewarmed. 

Relievis (ral-ve). — Dishes, like roasts, 



which form the substantial part of 

the meal. 
Removes. — Same as relieves. 
Remoulade (rem-oo-lad). — A sharp 

sauce used for salad dressing. 
Rissoles (re-soU). — Puff paste filled 

with minces and fried. 
Roux (roo). — Fried or burnt flour used 
, for thickening soups, etc. 
Salmis (sal-me). — Hashes of game. 
Sawte (so-tay). — To fry in a frying pan. 

Sauter, is to fry thus in a sauce. 
Savories (sa-vo-rees). — Small dishes of 

cheese, etc., served at the close of 

dinner. 
Semole (see-mool). — A coarse, sand like, 

wheat meal. 
Serviette (serv-yet). — A napkin. A la 

serviette, is served up in a napkin. 
Sherbet (sher-bet). — An agreeable fla- 
vored beverage. 
Sippets (sip-pets). — Small pieces of 

bread, fried and used for garnishing. 
Skewer. — A pointed piece of wood used 

to hold meat in place while cooking. 
Sorbet (sor-bay). — A partly frozen, well 

flavored beverage. Saubetiere, a box 

used for making sorbets. 
Soufl& (soo-flay). — A light pudding. 
Stock. — The broth of which soups are 

made. 
Tamis or Tammy (Tam-my). — A fine 

sieve for straining sauces, broth, etc 
Timbale (tim-bal). — A sort of meat pie. 
Truffle (truf-fle).— A kind of mush- 
room. 
Truss. — To skewer; to prepare fowls 

for cooking. 
Turbans (tur-ban). — Ornamental small 

dishes made of fillets of fish, game, 

etc. 
Veloute (ve-loo-tay). — A rich white 

sauce. 
Vol-au'Vcnt (vol-o-van). — A crust of 

puff paste filled with a ragout, fruit, 

etc. 
Zest. — The thin yellow rind of orange 

used for flavoring. 



INDEX 



BEVERAGES AND SYRUPS- 

,554 to 572 

Chicory , 562 

Choca 563 

Chocolate. 562,563 

Cocoa ....... 563. 564 

Coffee . 556 to 562 

Mate, or Paraguay tea .564 

Tea, to make 554 

Miscellaneous Beverages. 564 to 570 

About summer drmks 567 

Apple water 564 

Blackberry nectar 565 

Cherry acid . . 565 

Cider 569 

Cocoanut beverage 565 

Cream soda .... 565 

Currant shrub 565 

Currant water 565 

Ginger beverage 566 

Ginger pop .569 

Gooseberry shrub 566 

Grape juice and almonds 565 

Grape water 565 

Jelly beverages 565 

Koumiss . .565 

Lemonade, 6 recipes 566, 567 

Lemon beer , 569 

Mead » 567 

Milk beer , 569 

Oatmeal drink . , 567 

Orangeade 568 

Orgeate 568 

Persian iDeverage. . 568 

Pineapple beverage .568 

Raspberry acid 568 

Raspberry shrub 568 

Raspberry water 568 

Spruce beer .570 

Strawberry acid 569 

Strawberry shrub 568 

Strawberry water 569 

'Tamarind water 568 

Tisane 569 

Tomato beverage .569 

Tutti frutti 569 

Vinegar water 567 

Honey, artificial 572 

Syrups, 16 recipes 570 to 572 

BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, 
WAFFLES. SANDWICHES, 

TOASTS, ETC 256 to 294 

Bannock, Indian . . 279 

Biscuit, 14 recipes 273, 274 

Bread , ...,..,.257 to 272 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, 
ETC. -(Continued ) 

Bread, baking of .259 

Bakmg powder bread 262, 268 

Baking powder to make ... ,265 

Boston brown , . . , .269, 270 

Bread-box for . . , 261 

Brown . 269 

Buttermilk . ..2G9 

Carolina rice 271 

Corn ._270 

Cornmeai for . . . 261 

Eating hot 201 

Entire w heat . . 207 

Essentials of making . . ...o.258 

Gluten . ..... ,., .271 

Graham - , * .271 

Half and half , 267 

Keeping of 200 

Kentucky egg corn 270 

Kneading of 258 

Mifk 267, 268 

Mixing flours for 2431 

Mixing of 257 

Oatmeal 271 

Once raised , 2Cj> 

Oven for baking 259 

Pans for .... 250 

Pastry flour for , 202 

Prepared flour 262 

Principles involved in making. 262 

Potatoes in 262 

Pumpkin 272 

Rice 271 

Rising of 2.58 

Rye 272 

Salt rising 208 

Squash 272 

Stale, to utilize 272 

Steamed com 270 

Sugar in 202 

Time to bake 206 

Water 200 

White 200 

While corn 270 

Yeast for 258 

Brioches 275 

Buns, 3 recipes 274. 27."i 

Cakes, buckwheat, baked 279 

Corn cake 278 

Cracked wheat 288 

Cracker.s, 4 recipes 270, 277 

Crackers, cheese 202 

Crumpets, 2 recipes 2S2 

Diamonds, graliam . . 277 

Dodgers, corn 279 



639 



640 



INDEX. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, 
ETC.— (ContiDued.) 

Farina .....288 

Flannel cakes 285 

Gems, 3 reciijes 280 

Gems, egg 187 

Gramila 288 

Griddle cakes, 18 recipes. .283 to 285 

Hasty pudding 289 

Hoe cake 279 

Hulled corn 288 

Imperial granum 288 

Johnny cake, 5 recipes 270, 277 

Muffins, 14 recipes 280, 281 

Mushes, 10 recipes 2SG to 288 

Oatmeal cakes 282. 283 

Patties, green corn 279 

Pon e, corn 278, 279 

Pop overs , 283 

Puffs, 2 recipes . . . = 283 

Rolls, 4 recipes 27(j 

Rusks, 2 recipes . . 275 

Sally luun 282 

Sandwiches, 40 recipes. . .290 to 294 

Scones, 2 recipes 282 

Spider cake. 2 recipes, 278 

Toast, 7 recipes 289, 280 

Toast, tomato .253 

Walers 273 

Waffles, 7 recipes 285, 28G 

Wheat germ 288 

Wheatlet with dates 288 

Yeast, 5 recipes 2G3, 204 

CAKES 346 to 408 

General directions for. . . .340 to 355 

Almonds, to prepare 348 

Baking powder 349 

Butter for cake 340 

Cake baked in paper .352 

Cinnamon 348 

Citron, preparing for use 348 

Cocoanut, preparing for use 348 

Cream of tartar. 349, 3.50 

Crystallization 398 

Currants, preparing for use 349 

Dates, preparing for use. . , . 349 

Eggs tor cakes 347 

Extracts and flavorings , .355 

Frosting, 12 recipes 393 to 395 

Icing, 4 recipes . . : .395 

Ornamental icing 395 to 398 

Piping 397 

Milk for cake, etc. 348 

Flour, pastry 347 

Fruit cake, hints about , . . ..354 

Fruit for cake .348 

Gingerbread, hints about 355 

High altitudes, cooking in 358 

Raisins for cake .340 

Soda for cooking 319, 3.50 

Spices 34S 

Sugar for cake . . 340 



CAKES.-(Continued ) 

Fillings for layer cakes. . .359 to 3G3 

Layer cakes 303 

1-2-3 cake .,..303 

Almond cake 1 . .304 

Apple jelly cake . 304 

Chocolate, 2 recipes 304, 305 

Cocoanut cake, 2 recipes 305 

Cocoanut white cake 370 

Corn-starch jelly cake ':3C8 

Cream cake, 3 x-ecipes 304, 305 

'Cream puffs ,371 

'Custard cake 300 

Date cake 360 

Denver cake 300 

Economical layer cake 306 

Fig layer cake 306 

Iroquois cake 307 

Jelly cake 307 

Minnehaha cake 308 

Xut layer cake 368 

Orange cake 308 

Oriental cake 309 

Peach cake 367 

Polonaise cake 370 

Riljbon cake 371 

Rochester jelly cake ... ... .367 

Rolled jelly cake 308 

Strawberry cake ... ..... 373 

Vanity cake . 372 

White cake 370 

Loaf cakes .372 to 398 

Almond cake 372 

Angel's food 373 

Apple cake, 3 recipes. . ^ 373 

Black cake 374 

Bluel)erry cake 374 

Bread cake 374 

Buttermilk cake 374 

Cameron cake 374 

Canada cake 375 

Chocolate cake 375 

Cider cake 375 

Citron cake 375 

Clove cake 375 

Coffee cake 375 

Cold water cake 370 

"Confederate cake , .376 

Corn-starch, 2 recipes 370 

Cream cake 370 

Date cake , .377 

Delicate cake 376 

Dennison cake 377 

Dough cake 377 

Feather cake 378 

Fountain cake 378 

French cake 377 

Fruit cake, 6 recipes 378, 379 

Georgia cake 379 

Gingerbread, 13 recipes. 388 to 3!X) 

Gingerbread, icing for 395 

Ginger cake 388 

Gold cake 379 



INDEX 



641 



CAKES.-(Oontinued.) 

liOaf cakes, graham , , . . , 380 

Groom's cake ,.,,,,.. 380 

Hasty cake . . .380 

Hickory-nut cake , . .380 

Huckleberry cake 374 

Ice cream cake 380 

Imperial cake , 381 

Lemon 381 

Marble cake, 2 recipes , . . .381 

Molasses cake 382 

Mountain cake 382 

Quick cake 383 

Plum cake 382 

Poor man's cake. 383 

Pork cake 388 

Pound cake 383 

One egg cake 382 

Orange cake .382 

Raisin cake 383, 384 

Raised cake 383 

•Silver cake 3&4 

'Snow cake 384 

Spice cake 385 

Sponge cake, 6 recipes. . . .384, 385 

Sunshine cake .38G 

Tennessee cake 383 

Watermelon cake 387 

Wedding cake 386 

White cake .387 

Whortleberry cake 388 

(Small cakes 398 to 408 

Almond drops 398 

Anise drops .398 

Cookies, 15 recipes 399 to 402 

Cookies, icing for ......, = .395 

Cream cakes » , 407 

Eclairs .......... .,, 405 

Ginger biscuits c -. . . .. .402 

Ginger drops, 2 recipes, .,,.., .399 

Ginger nuts .399 

Ginger snaps, 4 recipes. . .403 

Jumbles, 4 recipes. ., , . . .402 

Kisses ,. ......... ,...406 

Lady fingers » . . .404 

Macaroons, 4 recipes ..... .404, 405 

iMaple sugar cakes 406 

Patty cakes 406 

Pastry bag, to make, . o . 404 

Puffs ,....,,. =.. ,..407 

Puffs, cream 405 

Sand tarts , 408 

Savoy biscuits . .407 

Shrewsbury cakes . 407 

Snaps, 6 recipes 403, 404 

Trifles 408 

Turtle cakes. , 408 

Vernon cakes. . 407 

HO:\rE CANDY MAKING.447 to 403 

General directions 447 to 450 

Almond creams 453 

Balls ...453 



Candy, bonbons 456 

Butternut balls 461 

Butter scotch , 458 

Caramels 4(30 

Chocolate creams . 453 

Cocoanut creams 453, 456 

Corn-cake 462 

Cough candy 458 

Cream candies 451, 454, 455 

Cream coated fruits 454 

Cream nut candy .456 

Cream walnuts, dates, etc 455 

Crystallized cherries 461 

Crystallized fruits , .462 

Crystallized nuts 462 

Drops 459,460 

Fig candy .461 

Fondant 451, 454 

French chocolates 461 

Frosted or iced fruits , . . .462 

Fruit creams 453 

Fudge , . 463 

Ginger drops 459 

Glaces 455 

Hoarhouud candy 460 

Honey candy . , , . 461 

Lemon creams . : 4.52 

Lemon drops 459 

Lozenges 455 

Maple sugar creams 4.53 

Marsh-mallows 456 

Molasses candy 457, 458 

Nougat 456 

Orange creams 452 

Orange peel, candied 463 

Patties 454 

Peanut candy 461 

Peppermint drops 459 

Popcorn 461, 462 

Raspberry creams 453 

Ratafias 462 

iStrawberry creams 453 

Sweet fig candy . , . . 458 

Taffy ... 457 

Walnut creams 453 

White candy .... , . .462 

Wintergreen drops - 460 

CANNING FRUITS, ETC.518 to 529 

General directions , ■ . .518 to 520 

Utensils used . - . — ..529 

Canning without syrup .526 

Cold process for canning 520 

Canning apples 523 

Apricots 522 

Asparagus 524 

Beans 524 

Beets . ...... . .524 

Berries 520 

Blackberries 523 

Cabbage 524 

Carrots 524 

Cherries 523. 527 

Currants .521. 52l^ 527 



642 



INDEX. 



CANNING FRUITS— (Gontinued). 

Corn 5^3 

Damsons 521 

Dewberries 521 

Elderberries 521 

Fruit juices 525 

Grapes 522, 526 

Gooseberries 521, 526 

Greengages 521 

Huckleberries 522, 527 

Juneberries 522 

Lima beans 524 

Nectarines 523 

Peaches 523, 527 

Pears 527 

Pears 523, 521 

Pineapples 523 

■ Plums 521, 523 

Pumpkin 524 

Quinces 522 

Raspberries 521, 522, 527 

Rhubarb 522, 527 

Strawberries 522, 523, 527 

Succotash 525 

Tomatoes 525 

Meat, canning of 527, 528 

CARVING 589 to 602 

OOLORS FOR FROSTINGS, 
CANDIES, ETC 302, 303 

DESSERTS 409 to 433 

Preliminary hints 409 

Air balls 416 

Blanc mange, 7 recipes. . .410, 411 

Blanc mange, 5 recipes 588 

Charlotte russe 417 

Cracker dessert 417 

Creams, 7 recipes 415, 416 

Custards, 21 recipes 411 to 415 

Floating island 417 

Jelly and rice dessert 417 

Kiss pudding 417 

Layer pudding 417 

Mock lemon jelly 418 

Molded snow 418 

Puffs, dessert 418, 424 

Rice dessert, 3 recipes 418 

iSago float 416 

Scandinavian rogrod 418 

Sponge biscuit for dessert 419 

Fruit desserts 419 to 426 

Apple float 419 

Apple Kuchen 419 

Apple snow, 2 recipes 419 

Banana dessert, 2 recipes 420 

Berry dessert 420 

Bird's nest 421 

Cocoanut corn-starch 420 

Flummery 423 

French jellies 421 

Fruit cups 420 

Fruit desserts, 3 recipes. . .421, 422 



DESSERTS— (Continued). 

Fruit on toast 426 

Fruit puffs 424 

Fruit trifle 425 

Fruit whip 422 

Lemon cream 422 

Mock raspberries 425 

Mock strawberries 425 

Oranges and cocoanut 422 

Oranges and rhubarb 423 

Orange dressing 422 

Orange float 422 

Orange pudding 423 

Peaches and rice 423 

Pear meringue 423 

Pineapple pudding 424 

Prune whip 424 

Puffs, fruit 424 

Quince snow 424 

Raspberry snow 420 

Red currant snow 419 

Sago with fruit 424 

Snowed fruit 421 

Strawberry foam 424 

Strawberry snow 420 

Tapioca nut cream 421 

Tapioca with fruit 424 

Thickened cream 421 

Turon 425 

Tutti frutti 425 

Gelatine preparations. . . .427 to 433 

Almond blanc mange 428 

Apples in jelly 428 

Bananas in jelly 428 

Calf's foot jelly 429 

Charlotte russe 429 

Chocolate charlotte russe 428 

Chocolate cream 429 

Cider jelly 429 

Cocoanut cream 430 

Cofl:ee jelly 429 

English cream jelly 429 

Frozen pudding 430 

Gooseberry cream 429 

Jelly of different colors 428 

Lemon cream 430 

Lemon gelatine 429 

Lemon jelly, 2 recipes 430 

Lemon whip 430 

Macedonian jelly 431 

Mock ice 430 

Orange cream 431 

Orange dessert 431 

'Orange jelly, 2 recipes 431 

Peach cream 431 

Pineapple cream 431 

Pineapple jelly 432 

Prune jelly 432 

Rice cream 432 

Russian cream 432 

Russian jelly 432 

Snow pudding 433 

Spanish cream 433 



INDEX. 



643 



DESSERTS— (Continued). 

Strawberry jelly 433 

Vanilla cream 433 

Velvet cream 433 

DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS, 

ETC.- 338 to 345 

Cannelons 345 

Crullers, 2 recipes 340 

Doughnuts, G recipes 339, 340 

Fried cakes, 2 recipes 341 

Jolly boys 341 

Fritters, 27 recipes 342 to 345 

ECGS 184 to 191 

Ancliovied eggs 190 

Baked eggs 190 

Boiling of eggs 114, 185, 186 

Breakfast eggs ISS 

Cold fried eggs 187 

Coloring and dying of eggs 185 

Creamed eggs 186 

Curried eggs 180 

Deviled eggs 187 

Dropped eggs on toast 187 

Egg gems 187 

Fried eggs 187 

Ham and eggs 190 

Omelets, 8 recipes 188, 189 

Omelet, beef 130 

Pickled eggs 534 

Poached eggs 189 

Poached in gravy 190 

Scalloped eggs 190 

Egg nests 188 

Eggs on rice 190 

Eggs on toast 191 

Escalloped eggs 187 

Scotch eggs .*.... 191 

Scrambled eggs 190 

Shirred eggs 190 

Snowed eggs 191 

Spanish eggs 190 

Steamed eggs 191 

StufEedeggs 191 

EXTRACTS AND FLAVOR- 
INGS 355 to 358 

Curry powder 108 

Flavoring sugar 393 

Flavored vinegars 109, 110 

Herb powder 108 

Ragout powder 109 

Sassafras powder 109 

Virginia flavoring 31 

FISH AND FROGS 48 to 81 

Au gratin, fish 57 

Baking fish 55 

Boning fish 49 

Boiling fish 50, 53 

Broiling fish 53 

Broiled salt fish 54 

Caviar CO 

Cleanin- fi^h 48 



FISH AND FROGS— (Continued). 

Cold fl;ih, Utilizing of 58 

Creamed fish 58 

Crimping of fish GO 

Croquettes of fish 181 

Curry of fish 57 

Escalloped fish 58, 59 

Fillets of fish 5G 

Fish balls 57 

Fish cakes 59 

Fish chowder 58 

Frying fish 54 

Garuishing of fish 50, (JSO 

Hints 49 

Keeping fish "0 

Marinade for fish .54 

Methods of cooking fi^h CO 

IMuddy taste, to remove 49 

Pickled fish 57 

Pie, fish 59 

Potted fish 59, 179 

Redressed cold fish 59 

Sauteing fish 55 

Scaling fish 49 

Skinning fish 49 

Spiced fish 57 

Steaming fish 52 

Stewed fish 53 

Stuffing for baked fish. 5G 

Thawing when frozen 50 

To freshen salt fish 49 

Turbans of fish 57 

Fishes, cooking of GO to 81 

Alevrife IKJ 

Anchovies GO 

Barbel 61 

Bass 61 

Blackfish 61 

Bleak 61 

Bloater G9 

Bluefish G2 

Bonito 62 

Bream G2 

Burbot G9 

Butterfish 62 

Carp 63 

Catfish (!3 

Char G4 

Chub W 

Coalfish 72 

Codfish 61 

Cod sounds i'.." 

Codfish tongues 6.."> 

Cusk 69 

Dace GG 

Drum GG 

Eels G5 

Fl nuuler GG 

(Jrayling G7 

(Judgoon G7 

tJuruard 67 

Haddock 67 

Hake tW 

Halibut CkS 



644 



INDEX. 



FISH AND FROGS— (Continued). 

Herring <jU 

Lamprey 09 

Ling 09 

'Maclierel TO 

Menliadden TO 

Mullet •. TO 

Muskellunge Tl 

Perch Tl 

Pickerel Tl 

Pike T2 

Place T2 

Pollock T2 

Pompano T3 

Porgy T2 

Ray T3 

Red snapper T2 

Roach T3 

Roes T3 

Salmon T4 

Sardines To 

Scrod 65 

Scuppaug T6 

Shad TO 

■Sheepshead TO 

,Skate T3 

iSmelts TT 

Sole TT 

Sprats 78 

Squeteaque T8 

Sturgeon T8 

Suckers T8 

iSunflsh T9 

Swordfish T9 

Tautog T9 

Thornback T9 

Tomcods 65 

Trout T9 

Tunnv T9 

Turbot 80 

Weakfish 81 

Whitebait 81 

Whitefish 81 

Whiting 81 

Frogs 60 

SHELL-FISH— OYSTERS, LOB- 
ISTERS, TURTLES, ETC., 

82 to 94 

Clams, 6 recipes 82, 83 

Crabs, recipes 83, 84 

Cray-fish, 3 recipes 84, 85 

Lobsters, 11 recipes 85 to 88 

Oysters, 21 recipes 88 to 92 

Prawns 85 

Scallops 93 

Shrimps 85 

Terrapin 93 

Turtles 93 

FLAVORING— See Extracts. 

FRUITS AND NUTS 404 to 48T 

Acids in fruits 405 

About eating fruit 404 



FRUITS AND NUTS-(Continued). 

Apples 400, 501 

Apricots 400, 500 

Bananas 460, 480 

Barberry, the SOT 

Berries 406 

Bilberry, the 511 

Blackberry, the 544 

Blueberrj^ the 406 

Cantelopes 468 

Cherry, the 325, 467 

Citron 475 

Cocoanut, the 304, 407 

Cranberry, the 494 

Currants 407,526 

Dates 305,407 

To prepare for cooking 349 

Dewberry, the 521 

Figs 407, 480 

Elderberry, the 545 

Gooseberries 467, 481 

Grapes 467, 510 

Grapefruit 467 

Guava 468 

Huckleberry, the 527 

Lemon, the 567 

Lime, the 536 

Mango 468 

Mangostan 469 

Melons 468, 476 

Mulberry, the 408, 512 

Olives 468 

Oranges 423, 469 

Peaches .• 469 

Pears 4T0, 483 

Persimmons 4T0 

Pineapples 445, 4T0 

Plums 4T1, 495, 515 

Pomegi'anate 4T1 

Priclvl.v pears 4T2 

Raspberries 4T1. 552, 5T1 

Ethubarb, origin, etc 484 

.Shaddock 46T 

Sloe 4T1 

Strawberries 4T1. ,j04 

Tamarind 4T2 

Whortleberry, the 466 

Compotes of fruit 485 to 487 

Cooked fruits 4TT to 485 

Using sugar iu cooking 4T7 

Apples, 7 recipes 477, 478 

Apple butter 477 

Apple sauce, 5 recipes 479 

Bananas. 3 recipes 480 

Cranberry sauce 479, 480 

Damson sauce 483 

Date sauce 480 

Dried i)erries, stewed 481 

Fig sauce 481 

Goosolierry fool 481 

Gooseberry trifle 481 

L^mon butter 481 

Lftinon jelly 481 



INDEX. 



645 



FRUITS AND NUTS— (Oontintiecl). 

Quinces, 2 reciped 483 

Peaches, 3 recipes 481, 482 

Peach sauce 479 

Peaches, to skin 481 

Pears, 3 recipes 482 

Plum charlotte 483 

Pi'unes, 3 recipes 483 

Raisine 484 

Rhubarb, butter 484 

Rhubarb, stewed 484 

Tamarind sauce 484 

Tomato butter 484 

Dried fruits 473 to 476 

Apples ■ 474 

Apples, to skin 474 

Blackberries 474 

Cherries 474 

Citron 475 

Cooking dried fruit 474 

Currants 475 

Gooseberries 475 

Keeping dried fruit 474 

Peaches 476 

Pears 474 

Pineapples 476 

Plums 470 

Quinces 474 

Watermelon rinds 476 

Nuts 472 

Almond, the 321 

Almonds, glazed 473 

Almonds, salted 473 

Almonds, sugared 472 

Brazil-nuts .472 

Chestnut, the 151 

'Chestnuts, roasted 472 

Peanut, the 461 

Peanuts, salted 473 

Walnut, the 548 

Walnuts, salted 473 

HASH AND CROQUETTES— 

176 to 183 

Croquettes, 14 recipes. . .179 to 182 

Kouftas 183 

Kromeskies 182 

Scotch coUops 182 

Hash, 10 recipes 176 to 178 

Garnishing of 633 

Pilaff 179 

Scrapple 178 

ICE OREAINIS, WATER ICES 
AND SHERBETS. . . .434 to 446 

Frappes 444 

Granites 444 

Ice ci'eams 434 to 443 

Preliminary suggestions.434 to 438 

Almond 440 

'Baked apple 440 

Banana 440 



■ ICE CREAMS, ETC.— (Continued). 

Ice cream, bisque 440 

Brown bread 441 

Burnt almond 440 

Caramel 440 

Chocolate 441 

Coffee 441 

Frozen fruit 443 

Fruit 441 

Fruit juice 441 

Fruit molds 443 

Gelatine 441 

Iced strawberry pudding 443 

Lemon 441 

Macaroon 441 

Macedoines 442 

Mousse 443 

Neapolitan ice cream, 4 reeipes.438 

Nesselrode puddin.q; 442 

Nut 442 

Orange 442 

Pineapple 442 

Pistachio 442 

Philadelphia ice cream, 3 rec- 
ipes 438 

Tea 441 

Tutti frutti 442 

Vanilla 442 

Sherbets 444, 445 

Sorbets 446 

Water ices 444, 445 

INVALID COOKERY. . . ..573 to 588 

Appetite, the 579 

Apple water 583 

Arrowroot 585 

Asses' milk 585 

Barley water 583 

Beef juice 582 

Beef tea 582, 583 

Beef tea, value of 577 

Bilious tendency 579 

Blanc mange, 5 recipes 588 

Bread jelly 570 

Broth, 2 recipes 581 

Broth, value of 578 

Buttermilk, use of 577 

Cocoa, for invalids 579 

Coffee, for invalids 579 

Consumptive tendency 579 

Cream, use of 577 

Diet, its importance 580 

Elm jelly 5S7 

Egg drinks, 3 recipes 584 

Eggs for invalids 582 

Eggs, use of 577 

Essence of moat 581. 582 

Fats and oils 580 

Fats for the system 577 

Fat. to remove from brotli 5S1 

Fever cases 576 

Fine Hour bread 578 

Flaxsod tea 584 



646 



INDEX. 



INVALID COOKERY— (Continued). 

Flour, baked or boiled 580 

Frangipane 586 

Goat's milk 585 

Goat's milk, artificial 585 

Gout 589 

Gruels, 7 recipes 586, 587 

Iceland moss 588 

Jellies 587, 588 

Jelly, gelatine and isinglass 578 

Juice of fruits 579 

Lemonade, hot 583 

Licorice tea 584 

Lime 580 

Lime water 584 

Linseed tea 584 

Meat patty 582 

Milk porridge 587 

Mutton, toasted 582 

Oatmeal jelly 587 

Panada, cracker 588 

Porridge 587 

Rennet whey 584 

Restorative jelly 587 

Rice and milk 585 

Rice jelly 587 

Rice water 583 

Sandwiches, raw beef 582 

Scrofulous diseases 580 

Sippets 586 

Slippery elm tea 584 

Soup, milk 581 

Steak, broiled 582 

Stomach and bowel disorder. . . .576 

Suet and milk 586 

Swiss cream 585 

Tapioca jelly 587 

Tea, for invalids 579 

Toast, milk or cream 586 

Toast, value of 578 

Toast, water 583 

Vegetables, for invalids 579 

Wine jelly 588 

Whey, use of 577, 584 

Wine whey 584 

JAM'S, JELLIES, MARMA- 
LADES, PRESERVES, ETC., 

488 to 517 

General suggestions 488 to 491 

Fruit cheeses, 4 recipes. .. .499, 500 

Fruit pastes, 8 recipes 500 to 502 

Jams 502 to 504 

Apple ginger 502 

Apple jam 502 

Barberry jam 503 

Blackberry jam 502 

Cherry jam 503 

Currant jam 503 

Gooseberry jam 503 

Grape jam 503 

Quince jam 504 

Pineapple jam 503 



JAMS, JELLIES, ETC.-(Contin- 
ued). 
Pineapple parings, to utilize. . .503 

Plum jam 503 

Raspberry jam 504 

Rhubarb jam 504 

Strawberry jam 504 

Tomato jam 504 

Vegetable marrow jam 504 

Jellies 491 to 496 

Apple jelly 493 

Blackberry jelly 493 

Cherry jelly 493 

Crab apple jelly 493 

Cranberry jelly 493 

Currant jelly 493 

Damson jelly 495 

Dried apple jelly 493 

Gooseberry jelly 495 

Grape jelly 495 

Guava jelly 494 

Mango jelly 495 

Quince jelly 495 

Peach jelly 495 

Pear jelly 495 

Plum jelly 495 

Plum and apple 493 

Raspberry jelly 493 

Rhubarb jelly 496 

Strawberry jelly 493 

Tutti frutti jelly 496 

Various jellies 493 

Wild plum jelly 496 

Marmalades 496 to 499 

Making marmalade 496 

Testing marmalade 496 

Apple marmalade 497, 498 

Apricot marmalade 497 

Blackberry marmalade 498 

Crab apple marmalade 498 

Grape marmalade -, . .497 

Orange marmalade 497 

Quince marmalade 497, 498 

Peach marmalade 497 

Pear marmalade 497 

Plum marmalade 498 

Raspberry marmalade 498 

Rhubarb marmalade 497 

Strawberry marmalade 498 

Tomato marmalade 499 

Various fruit marmalades . .. .497 
Vegetable marrow 499 

Preserves 505 to 517 

Canned fruit for preserves. . . .505 

Cooking the fruit 505 

Graining of syrup 506 

Hardening fruit 505 

Keeping preserves 505 

Syrup for preserves 506 

Time to boil fruits 506 

Apple preserves JiOO 

Apricot preserves 507, 514 

Barberry preserves 507 



INDEX. 



647 



JAMS, JBDDIBS, BTG.-(Contin- 
ued). 

Bilberry presen-es 511 

Blackberry preserves 507 

Cantelope, preserved 517 

Cherry preserves 508 

Citron preserves 508 

Crab apple preserves 507 

Cranberry preserves 509 

'Currant preserves 508, 509 

Damson preserves 511 

Dewberry preserves 508 

Fig preserves 509 

Ginger preserves 510 

Gooseberry preserves 510 

Greengage preserves 511 

Grape preserves 510 

Huckleberry preserves 511 

Lemon preserves 512, 513 

•Limes, preserved 513 

Nectarine preserves 514 

Orange preserves 513 

IMulberry preserves 512 

Muskmelon preserves 512 

Peach preserves 513, 514 

Pear preserves 514 

Pineapple preserves 514 

Plum preserves 515 

Pumpkin preserves 515 

Quince preserves 516 

'Raspberry preserves 516 

(Strawberry preserves 515 

'Tomato figs 509 

Tomato preserves 516 

Watermelon, preserved 517 

MEAT'S, GAME, POULTRY— 

Ill to 164 

Baking meats 112 

Barding 122 

Basting 112 

Boiling meat 113 

Boning meat 122 

Braising 120 

Broiling meat Ill 

Burning fat 125 

Canning meat 527, 528 

Cold meat 125 

Daubing 122 

Drippings 123 

Fats and oils 117 

Fat, to clarify 118 

Flour, to brown 127 

Fricasseeing 116 

Frozen meat, to thaw 125 

Frying !!•"> 

Garnishing meat 127, 631 

Glazing 122,633 

Gravy, to make 125 

Grilling Ill 

Larding 121 

Odor of boiling, to overcome. . . .125 
Meat pie li">3 



MEATS, GAME, POULTRY— 

(Coutinuedj. 

Meat pies, dangerous gases in. . .153 

Potted meat 179 

Preserving of meat 135 

Ragouts 116 

Roasting meat 112 

Salt, its action on meat 124 

Salt meat, to cook 114 

Sauteing 119, 121 

Steaming 120 

Stewing meat 114 

Tainted meat 149 

Thermometers, use of 123 

Tough meat, to make tender 124 

To Egg and Bread-crumb 122 

Washing meat 124 

Water, use of hard and soft 124 

Beef 127 to 135 

A la mode 130 

Balls 128 

Cheese 128 

Daube 128 

Beefsteak, 7 recipes 133, 134 

Boiled dinner 134 

Chipped beef 128 

Corned beef 128 

Deviled beef 128 

Dried beef 128 

Dried beef relish 129 

Filet of beef 129 

Frizzled beef 129 

Hamburg steak 134 

Heart to cook 129 

Hunter's beef 129 

Kidney's, to cook 139 

Liver, 2 recipes 130 

Location of parts in beef 165 

Minced beef 134 

Mock duck 130 

Mock sausage 135 

Omelet, beef 130 

Pot pie 131 

Pot roast 131 

Pressed beef 131 

Roast beef 132 

Roast ribs of beef 132 

Salisbury steak 133 

Sausage roll 135 

Spiced beef 132 

Tongue, broiled 132 

Tripe 133 

Yorkshire pudding 132 

Mutton and lamb 140 to 143 

Kid. to cook 143 

Lamb. es(^lloped 143 

Lamb's fry 1C4) 

Lamb, grilled 143 

Lamb, log of 141 

Lamb's liver, curried 143 

lianib pie 141 

Mutton and rice 141 

Mutton and tomatoes 142 



648 



INDEX. 



MEATS, GAME, POULTRY— 
(Coiitinued). 

Muttou, boiled 140 

Mutton chops 141 

Mutton ham 141 

Mutton patties 141 

Mutton i)ies 141 

Mutton rechauffe 142 

Irish stew 142 

Location of parts in mutton. . .168 

Roly poly 143 

Scrambled mutton 142 

Scotch stew 142 

Sheep's brains 143 

Tongues, boiled 142 

Pork 141 to 148 

Brawn 148 

Chines 145, 146 

Cooking of pork 146 

Cutlets 146 

Fried salt pork 147 

Ham, 5 recipes 144, 145 

Head cheese 148 

Location of parts in pork 167 

Pig's feet, boiled 145 

Pig, roast 145 

Pork and eggs 146 

Pork, rechauffe 146 

Roast pork 145 

Salt pork dinner 147 

Pork steaks 146 

(Spare-ribs 145 

Sausages, to cook 148 

Souse, 2 recipes 147 

Worst, pork 148 

Veal 135 to 140 

Breakfast veal 136 

Calf's brains 136 

Cheese, veal 128 

Creamed veal 136 

(Cutlets, breaded 136 

Fillet roast 137 

Liver, fried 136 

Liver, stewed 137 

Location of parts of veal 166 

Mayonnaise 137 

Molded veal 137 

Old veal 135 

Pot-pie 137 

Pot-pie crust 138 

Roast veal pie 138 

Scalloped veal 138 

Smothered veal 139 

Spiced veal 139 

Veal and ham pie 138 

Veal loaf 137 

Veal stew 139 

Veal toast 139 

Sweetbreads, 3 recipes 139, 140 

Game 158 to 164 

Garjiishing for game 159, 632 

Tainted game, to restore 159 

TVihl flavor in, to overcome. . . .159 



MEATS, GAME, POULTRY— 
(Continued). 

Game, keeping of 159 

Bear 164 

Black-bird pie 100 

Buffalo 164 

Cranes 159 

Duck, wild 160 

Grouse 163 

Herons 159 

Opossum 163 

Partridges 100 

Pigeons, to cook ir)9, 160, 161 

Plovers 159, 101 

Prairie chickens 159, 102 

Quails 159, 102 

Rabbits 103 

Raccoons 164 

Small birds 162 

Snipes, to cook 159, 162 

Squabs 161 

Squirrels 104 

Venison 104 

Woodchucks 104 

Woodcocks 159, 162, 163 

Poultry 148 to 158 

Boned poultry , 150 

Breakfast dish, a 158 

Dressing for poultry 150 

Onions, use of 149 

Strong smell, to overcome 149 

Stuffing for poultry 150, 151 

Tainted meat 149 

Chicken, 15 recipes 151 to 154 

Ducks 156 

Fowls, 5 recipes 154, 155 

Garnishing, fowls 149, 632 

To draw 149 

To truss 150 

Guinea fowls 155 

Geese 156 

Giblets 155 

Giblet gravy 157 

Turkey, 4 recipes 157, 158 

CUTTING UP AND CURING 

MEATS 165 to 175 

Beef, Hamburg 172 

Parts in 165 

Spiced corn 171 

To corn 171 

To cure 170 

To dry 172 

Bladders, to prepare 173 

Curing meat 170 

Hams, 4 recipes 170, 171 

Lamb, to cut up 169 

Lard, to keep sweet 175 

Lard, to make 175 

Mutton, parts in 108 

Pickle for meat 109, 171, 173 

Pig's feet, pickle for 173 

Pork, cutting up I(i7 

Pork, parts in 107 



INDEX. 



649 



CUTTING UP AND CURING 
iMliJATS— (Coiitiuued). 

Rennet, to prepare 173 

Sausages, to make 173, 174 

Smoking meat 171 

Suet 175 

Tallow, to clarify 175 

Tongues, to cure 172, 173 

Tripe, to clean 173 

Veal, parts in IGC. 

Venison, to cut up 109 

MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

192 to 202 

Butter 193 to 197 

Anchovy 291 

Clarified or ghee 194 

'Mustard 291 

Fats, a word about 195 

Rancid 19G 

■Substitutes for 194, 195 

To cream 317 

To keep hard 197 

To keep sweet 193 

To make quickly 193 

To salt 194 

Various butters 99, 100 

Washing of 194 

Butterine 194 

Oleomargarine 194 

Cheese 197 to 202 

And macaroni 200 

Boiled 199 

■Cottage 199 

Cheese crackers 202 

Cream 199 

Derronshire cream 199 

Cheese fondue 200 

Fritters 199 

Home scallop 200 

Italian curds 200 

Mode of serving 198 

'Parmesan 198 

Polpetti 200 

Potted 201 

Smear case 201 

'Straws 201 

Rennet for 198 

Welsh rarebit 201 

With potatoes 243 

With rice 248 

With toast 201 

Milk 192 to 193 

Buttermilk 193 

Cream, substitute for 317 

Canned or condensed 192 

Solidified 1{>- 

Sour 193 

Sugar of 19- 

PASTRY— PIES. SHORTCAKES, 

TARTS 295 to 314 

Pastry 295 to 314 

Baking tins for pastry 298 



PASTRY— (Continued). 

L utter for pastry 297 

Cornmeul for pastry 300 

Doroo 300 

Flour ior pastry 295 

Gilding 300 

Meringue 300 

Method of making paste 295 

Oven, the 298 

Paste, 4 recipes for making 301 

Principles involved in making. . .299 

The two ci-usts 298 

To prevent juice from running 

out 209 

Pies, crust for, 2 recipes 301 

Time to bake 302 

Apple, (3 recipes for 302 

Apple cobbler 309 

Banana 303 

Carrot 303 

Cherry, 3 recipes 303 

Cho-joiate 303 

Coeoannt, 2 recipes 3^3, 304 

Corn-starch 334 

Cream, 4 recipes 304, 305 

Currant 305 

Custard, 3 recipes 3iJ5, 30G 

Date 305 

Elderberrv 30G 

Fi^ai 59 

Fri^-d ■ 306 

Fruit 3;!U 

Gooseberry 306 

Grape 306 

Hash 178 

Hickory-nut 336 

Huckleberry 307 

Lemon, 2 recipes 307 

Mince, 6 recipes oii7, 308 

Orange, 2 recipes 308 

Oyster 91 

Peach 309 

Pear 309 

Pineanplo 309 

Potato 309 

Prune 310 

Pumpkin, 2 recipes 310 

Raisin 310 

Rice 311 

Rhubarb 310 

(Squash 311 

Strawberry 311 

Sweet potato 310 

Tomato 311 

Transparent 311 

Vinegar 311 

Washington 311 

Shortcakes, 10 recipes 313. 314 

Tarts 306 

Tarts. 7 recipes 312, 313 

PICKLES. CAl\?rPS. SOYS, 

SPICED FRUIT 7:A0 to 549 

Catsup. 15 recipes •" !:'. to 548 



650 



INDEX. 



PICKLES, CATSUPS, ETC.— 
(Continued). 

Pickles 530 to 544 

A caution 530 

Alum, use of 530 

Brine for picliles 531 

Coloring pickles 530 

Keeping pickles 531 

Kettle, the, to use 531 

Parboiling 530 

Spices 531 

The vinegar 530 

Sour Pickles 531 to 540 

Artichokes 532 

Beans 532 

Beans, in salt 583 

Beets 531 

Butternuts 539 

Cabbage 532 

Carrots 532 

Cauliflower 532 

Celery . . . ." 532 

Cherries 532 

Chili sauce 539 

Chow chow 540 

Cucumbers, G recipes. 533, 5-34, 535 

Cucumbers, salted 534 

Corn 533 

Eggs 531 

French pickles 539 

Gherkins 534 

Jersey pickles 535 

Lemons 535 

Limes 535 

:Martynias 53G 

Mango r3i), 537 

Mixed pickles 530 

Mushroom 537 

Mustard G37 

Nasturtium 537 

Onions 538 

Ornamental picklos 539 

Oysters 53S 

Parsley 538 

Peppers 53S 

Piccalilli 538 

Russia picklos 539 

Tomato 538, 539 

Turnips 539 

Walnuts 539 

Sweet Pickles 540 to 544 

Method of making 541 

Apples 541 

Beets 541 

^Blackberries 541 

Blueberries 541 

Cabbage 541 

Cantelope 541 

Cauliflower 542 

Cherries 542 

Citron 544 

Crab apples 541 

Cucumber 542 



PICKLlEiS, CATSUPS, ETC.— 
(Continued). 

Sweet pickles, figs 542 

Grapes 542 

Peaches 543 

Pears 543 

Pineapple 543 

Plums 542 

Quinces 543 

Raisins 543 

Raspberries 5-11 

Strawberries 541 

Tomato, 3 recipes 543 

Watermelon rind 544 

Soys, 6 recipes 548, 549 

Spiced fruit, 11 recipes 544, 545 

PUDDING'S AND DUMPLINGS 

315 to 337 

Dumplings, recipes 330, 337 

Pandowdy 337 

Puddings, baking of 316 

Boiling of 310 

Cloth for 315 

Creaming butter for 317 

Steaming of 316 

Almond 321 

Apple 321 

Apple, Indian 322 

Berry 322 

Bird's nest 322 

Black , 322 

Bread, 4 recipes 323 

Bread crumb 322 

Cake, 3 recipes 323, 324 

California 324 

Canned 324 

Charlotte 324 

Cherry 325 

Chocolate 324 

Christmas 325 

Cocoanut 325 

Corn 229, 326 

Corn-starch 326 

Cottage, 3 recipes 326 

Cracked wheat 327 

Cracker 326 

Cranberry 326 

Date 327 

Delmonico 327 

Dover 327 

English 327 

Farina 328 

Feather 328 

Fig 328 

Fruit 328, 331 

Ginger 328 

Gold 329 

Gooseberrv 328 

Graham ." 329, 331 

Hanover 329 

Huckleberry 329 

Iced strawberry 443 



INDEX. 



651 



PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS— 
(Con till ued). 

Pudding, Indian 329, 330 

Lemon, 2 recipes 330 

Lowell 330 

Minute 330,331 

Nesselrode 442 

Orange 331 

Oxford 331 

Peach, 2 recipes 331 

Plum, 2 recipes 332 

Potato 331 

Princess 332 

Prune 332 

Puff 332 

Queen 332 

Raisin 333 

Raspberry 333 

Ratafia 333 

Rhubarb 333 

Rice, 3 recipes 334, 335 

Roly poly 334 

Sago 334.335 

Sponge 334 

•Steamed 335 

Suet, 2 recipes 334 

Tapioca, 4 recipes 334, 335 

Whortleberry 335 

Pudding sauces 317 to 321 

Acid 317 

Berij 31S 

Brown 31S 

Caramel 317 

Caramel syrup 317 

Cider 31S 

Cream 318 

Cream, substitute for 317 

Delicate 31S 

Dutch ....31S 

'Egg 313 

Foaming 31S 

Fruit juice 319 

Golden 319 

Jelly 310 

Lemon, 3 recipes 319 

Lombard 319 

•Maple 319 

'Maple sugar 319 

Milk 320 

[Mock whipped cream 3oJ 

Molasses 320 

Orange 320 

Pineapple 320 

Plain 320 

Plum, 2 recipes 320 

'Sweet 320 

Vanilla 319, 320 

Vinegar 321 

Whipped cream 31S 

White 321 

SALADS 203 to 215 

Oils, to use 203 

To fringe ccloi-y 204 



SALADS— (Continued). 

To marinate salads 204 

iSalad dressings, 9 recipes. . .204, 206 

Salads, aguacate 213 

Apple 213 

Asparagus 20U 

Barberry 214 

Beef 211 

Beet 206 

Boiled 200 

Cabbage 200 

Carrot 206 

Cauliflower 206 

Celery 207 

Cheese 212 

Cheese and egg 212 

Chervil 208 

Chicken 211 

Chicory 207 

Cold slaw 206 

Cold slaw, dressing I'or 207 

Crab 212 

Cranberry 214 

Cm-rant 214 

Creamy 207 

Cream slaw 2 !7 

Cucumber 208 

Dandelion 2G8 

Egg 212 

EDdive 207 

Esearole 207 

Fettieus 208 

Fish 212 

French fruit 214 

Fruit 213 

Gelatine 210 

Gooseberry 214 

Grape fruit 214 

Ham 211 

Hot slaw 207 

In jelly 209 

Lamb 211 

Lamb's lettuce 208 

Lemon 214 

Lettuce 208 

Lime 215 

Lobster 212 

Melon 214 

Xut 215 

Okra 20s 

Orange 214 

Oyster 212 

Peppers 208 

Potato 209 

Red vegetable 210 

Russian 209 

Salmon 213 

Salsify 209 

Sardine 213 

Shrimp 213 

Slaws 200. 207 

Sphiach '209 

Siring bean 2<>'. 



652 



INDEX. 



SALADS— (Continued). 

Sweetbread 211 

Swet potato 210 

Summer 209 

Tomato 219 

Tongue 211 

Various vegetable 210 

Veal 211 

Walnut 21G 

Water cress 210 

Watermelon 214 

Winter 210 

SAUCES FOR FISH, SHETvL- 
FISH AND MEATS. . .95 to 111 

Coloring for sauces 9G 

Herbs, etc 9.5 

Rous, to make 97 

Thickening for sauces 95 

The utensils used in making 

sauce 95 

Flavored vinegars 109, 110 

Anchovy sauce 99 

Aspic jelly 98 

Bechamel sauce 99 

Bordeaux sauce 9S 

Bread sauce 98 

Erown sauce 99 

Butters, 6 recipes 99, 100 

Caper sauce 100 

Capers, mock ^ 100 

Cauliflower sauce 100 

Celery sauce .100 

Chestnut sauce 101 

Chutnee sauce 101 

Cranberry sauce 102 

■Cream sauce 101 

Cucumber sauce 101 

Currant sauce 101 

Curry powder 108 

Curry sauce 102 

Drawn butter sauce 99 

Egg sauce 102 

Fennel sauce 102 

Fish sauce 102 

Herb powder for flavorin^^' 108 

Hollandaise sauce 102 

Horseradish sauce 102 

Lemon sauce 103 

Lobster sauce 103 

Mandram sauce 103 

Matelote sauce 103 

Milk sauce 104 

IMint sauce 104 

Miss Maitland's mayonnaise. .. .104 

Mushroom sauce 104 

Mustard, 4 recipes 194, 105 

Navy sauce 105 

Nut sauce 105 

Olive sauce 105 

Onion sauce lOo 

0"ster sauce lOG 

I'ar-.ley sauce lOG 



SAUCES FOR FISH, ETC.— 
(Continued.) 

Pepper sauce lOG 

Pickle sauce lOli 

Potato sauce lOG 

Raisin sauce lOG 

Ragout powder 109 

Sassafras powder 109 

Sauce piquante 100 

Sauce Robert lOG 

Sauce supx'eme 107 

Sauce tartare 107 

Sa:uce Velonte 107 

Shrimp sauce lOG 

Tartar sauce 107 

Tomato sauce 107 

Walnut sauce 108 

White sauce 99 

Worcestershire sauce 107, 108 

SOUPS 19 to 47 

Broth 24 

Browned crackers 31 

Caramel soup 31 

Clarifying soup 27 

Colorings for soup 28 

Croutons '. . . . 29 

Egg-balls 31 

Fat, to remove from soup 22 

Fish stock 27 

Flavorings 23 

Forcemeat 29 

Hints 24, 27 

Lobster butter 28 

Noodles 29 

Onions, use of 23 

Principles involved in making.. 20 

Quenelles 28 

Salt, to modify taste of 21 

Seasonings 24 

Soup-boquet 30 

Soup-bunch 3t) 

Stock 21. 24, 27 

Suet dumplings 29 

Tliiekening 30 

Utensils used 19 

Veal stock 20 

Virginia flavoring 31 

Soups, alma mata 39 

Almond 32 

Asparagus 32 

Barley 32 

Bean, 3 recipes 32 

Beef 39 

Bisque of lobster 45 

Boston .'. 45 

Bouillon 39 

Cabbage 33 

Carrot 33 

Celery 33 

Chicken 40 

Chicken and gumbo 40 

Clam 40 



INDEX. 



653 



SO U'P S— (Continued) . 

Clam chowder 46 

Clear 40 

Salt codfish 4G 

Canadian pea 36 

Consomme 41 

Green corn 33 

Cream celery 33 

Cucumber 34 

Duchess 41 

Egg 41 

Every-day 41 

Fish 46 

Flemish 34 

Florence 42 

Game 42 

Gumbo 34 

Hotch-potch 42 

Italian 34 

Julienne 35 

Macaroni 37 

Meat broth 42 

Mocli bisque 35 

Moclv turtle 38, 44 

Mullagatawny 43 

Mushroom 35 

Mutton broth 43 

Noodle 35 

Okra 34 

Onion 36 

Oxtail 43 

Oyster 47 

Palestine 36 

Pea 36 

Potato 37 

Pumpkin 3<) 

Rabbit 44 

Rice 37 

Sago 37 

'Semolina 37 

Spanish 47 

'Tapioca 37 

Tomato 37, 38 

Turkey 44 

Veal 45 

Vegetable marrow 38 

Vermicelli 37 

Victoria 38 

T\^hite 39 

TABLES 7 to 16 

Nutriment in foods 7 to 10 

Table of proportions 17 

Time of cooking 14 to 16 

Weights and measures. .11 to 13 

THE TABLE AND ITS AP- 
POINTMENTS G03 to 611 

VEGETABLES 216 to 1^5 

How to boil 217. 210 

Odor of boiling, to overcome. . .218 
Principles involved in boiling. .218 
Time to boil 218 



VEGETABLES— (Continued). 

To restore their freshnes.s 220 

Washing of 219 

Water, effects of different 

kinds 219 

Artich .kes, 4 recipes 220, 221 

Asparagus, 4 recipes 221, 222 

Beans, o recipes 222, 223 

Beets, 3 recipes 223, 224 

Brocoli 226 

Brussels sprouts, 2 recipes 224 

Cabbage, 5 recipes 224, 225 

Cardoon, the 221 

Carrots, 2 recipes 227 

Cauliflower, 2 recipes 226 

Celery 227, 228 

Colcannon 225 

Corn, 10 recipes 228, 229 

Cucumbers, 3 recipes 230 

Egg plant 231 

Endive 231 

Greens 231 

Greens, beet 224 

Kohlrabi 232 

Lettuce. 2 recipes 232. 233 

Macaroni, a recipes 233 

Mushrooms 234 to 2;>6 

Ola-a 236 

Onions, 6 recipes 237, 238 

Odor of, to overcome 237 

To peel 237 

Spanish 238 

Parsley 240 

Fried 634 

rarsnips, 4 recipes 238. 239 

Peas 239,240 

Potatoes, a la maitre d'hotel. . . .244 

And eggs 244 

Baked 242 

Balls 242 

Boiled 241 

Boston chips 243 

Broiled 242 

■Cake 242 

'Creamed 243 

Escalloped 243 

Fried 244 

Frozen 241 

Lyonnaise 244 

Mashed 244 

Puff 245 

Quirled 245 

'Salted 245 

Saratoga 243 

Solaniue, in 24(; 

iStcw 245 

Stuffed 245 

Turnovers 245 

Warmed in grivy 244 

Warmed over 246 

With cheese 243 

Pulses, the 223 

Punutkiiis _' 17 



654 



INDEX. 



VEGETABLES-(Conlinuetl). 

Radishes 24U 

Rice. 4 recipes 24S 

Salsil'y, 3 recipes 249 

Sauerliraut 250 

Sea-lvale 249 

Scotcli-liale 249 

Spaglaetti 233 

Spiuach 25(J 

Squash, 4 recipes 251 

Succotash 220 

Sweet potatoes, G recipes. . . .246, 247 

Tomatoes, 12 recipes 251 to 254 

Turnips, 3 recipes 254 

Vermicelli 233 

Yams, 2 recipes 254, 255 

VINEGARS 550 to 553 

Aromatic vinegar 553 

Flavored vinegars 109, 110 

Mother of vinegar 550 

Spiced vinegar 553 

To make, 10 recipes 551 to 553 

THE CHAFING DISH. . .012 to G21 

Asparagus 019 

Beef, dried 014 

Beefsteak and onions 013 

Beefsteak, broiled 613 

Beans, 2 recipes 019 

'Calf's brains, creamed 014 

Calf's liver and bacon 014 

Cheese Fondu 021 

Cheese with eggs 621 

Chicken and oysters 014 

Clams, creamed 610 

Chops, lamb 013 

Cod, salt creamed 615 

Corn, canned 619 

■Crabs, 4 recipes 617 

Curry stew 013 

Eggs 618, 019 

Sauce 015 

English monkey 021 

Fish, creamed 015 

With sauce piquante 015 

Fowl, re- warmed 013 

Frogs' legs 01« 

Game, re-warmed 013 

Halibut steaks 015 

Lamb chops 613 

Lobster 613, 618 

Meats 613 to 616 

Mushrooms, braised 020 

Omelets 619 

Onions, fried 619 

Oysters, 6 recipes 616 

Oystex's and chicken 614 

Paprica 015 

Pancakes 021 

Peas, fresh green 020 

Potatoes, 5 recipes 020 

Potatoes, sweet 020 

•Sardines 015 



THE CHAFING DISH— (Contin- 
ued). 

Sauces 614, 015 

Scallops. 2 recipes 017 

'Shrimps, 2 recipes 017 

Smelts, fried 017 

Succotash 019 

Sweetbreads, 2 recipes 014 

Tomatoes 620, 021 

Tripe with onions 014 

Trout, brook 016 

Venison steaks 013 

Whitensh, boiled 016 

White sauce 615 

Welsh rarebit 621 

MEDICAL AND TOILET HINTS 

022 to 633 

Acidity of the stomach 622 

Acids, burns from 023 

Alkalies, burns from 023 

Asthma 022 

Bandoline 033 

Bites of snakes 022 

Black eye 023 

Black heads 032 

Blisters 022 

Boils 622 

Breath, offensive 633 

Bruises 623 

Burns 623 

Bunions • 623 

Cankered mouth and throat 623 

Catarrh 023 

Chaps 623 

Chilblains 623 

Choking 024 

Cholera infantum 024 

Cholera morbus 024 

Cold cream 032 

Colds 023 

Cold sores 024 

Colic 624 

Corns 024 

Cough mixture 624 

Cramp 025 

Croup 625 

Cuts 025 

Dandruff 033 

Diarrhoea 625 

Diphtheria 625 

Diphtheretic sore throat 025 

Dogwood, poisoning from 629 

Dysentery 625 

Earache 625 

Ear, insects in 625 

Emetics 626 

Eye, black 023 

Eye. foreign substances in 026 

Eyes, inflamed 626 

Eyelitls. inflamed 626 

Face powders 632 

Fainting 626 



INDEX. 



655 



MEDICAL AND TOILET HINTS 
— (Continuedj. 

Fatigue G2G 

Felons (520 

Freckles G32 

Frostbites G2G 

Fruit laxative G27 

Grippe, the G2G 

Gumboil G27 

Hair, falling out 633 

Hair, to promote growth of GS:] 

Hay fever G27 

Headache G27 

Heartburn G27 

Hepatic spots G32 

Hiccough G27 

Hives G27 

Hoarseness G27 

Hysteria G27 

Insect in ear G25 

Itch G28 

Ivy, poisoning from G29 

Laxative, fruit G27 

Liniments G2S 

Mask G32 

Measles G28 

Medicines, to remove nauseous 

taste of G22 

Moles G32 

Morphew G32 

•Moth patches G32 

Mouth, sore G2S 

Nettle rash G2S 

Neuralgia 628 

Nose, bleding from 628 



MEDICAL AND TOILET HINTS 
—(Continuedj. 

Nose, foreign bodies in 628 

Nursing sore mouth 628 

Offensive breath 633 

Onions, to kill odor of 633 

Perspiration, offensive 632 

Pills, to take 622 

Pimples 632 

Poisons, antidote for 629 

Powders, to take 622 

Prickly heat 629 

Proud flesh 629 

Retching 629 

Ringworm 629 

Salt rheum 629 

Salve 629 

Scalds 623 

Sea sickness 630 

Sleeplessness 630 

Snakes, bites of 622 

Snoring 630 

Sore throat (i30 

Sprains (>30 

Sunburn 633 

Suffocation 630 

Swallowing substances by mis- 
take 630 

Tan, to remove 633 

Throat, sore 623, 630 

Tobacco, to stop odor of G33 

Toilet, hints 632, 633 

Tooth powder 632 

Warts 633 

Wounds 625 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



ALBUMEN 20 

Allspice So."! 

Altering recipes IS 

Arrowroot, origin, etc "iSo 

Aspic jelly 98 

BACTERIA r.lS 

Bain-marie 11") 

Baking powder 2C,T, 

Barding 122 

Basil, the 23 

Bay, the -1"' 

Boiled dinner 134 

Braising 120 

Brawn 148 

Brioches 27.") 

CANNELONS 343 

Capers ^"2 

Capsicum, the -"CT 

Caramel 31. 263. 3; 7, -'.."n 

Caramel, prepared ;'• •• 

Caramel syrup 317 



Cassava 335 

Caviar 60 

Celery, to frin-e 204 

Chervil 208 

Chicory 2<i7. riG2 

Chive, the 24 

Cinnamon 348 

Clove, the 98 

Col)lers 309 

Collops, Scoti-h 182 

Compotes 48"! to 487 

CondimoTits 97 

Cooking in high altitudes 308 

Corn-starch 320 

Cottolene 119 

Cotosuet 119 

Cream, mock whipped 30)0 

('reaip of tartar 3."0 

rreaui. substitute for 317 

! 'rontons 29 

Oxirry powder lo7 



656 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



DATES, to prepare for cooking. 349 

Daubing 122 

Dextrin 263, 289, 578 

Doree 300 

ELDERBERRY, tlie 545 

Egg and bread crumbing 122 

Endive 207 

Eschalot, the 24 

Escarole 207 

FAGGOTS 160 

Fats and oils 117 

Fat, to clarify 117, 118, 338 

Fennel, the 102 

Fetticus 208 

Flour, pastry 347 

Flour, to brown 127 

Fondant 451 

Fondue 200 

Forcemeat 29 

GARLIC, the 43 

Gases in meat pies 153 

Gelatine 20, 427 

Ghee 194 

Gherkins 534 

Gilding 300 

Ginger 560 

Glazing 122, 633 

'HONEY, artificial 572 

Horseradish, the 104 

ICELAND MOSS, origin, etc 588 

Intoxicating liquors, use of 18 

Irish moss, origin, etc 588 

Isinglass 427 

KOUFTAS 183 

Kromeskies 182 

LAMB'S LETTUCE 208 

Larding 121 

Lardoons 121 

Leek, the 35 

Lemon peel, to grate 358 

Lights, the 106 

Liquors, intoxicating 18 

MACE 30 

Macedoines 442 

Maple syrup, imitation 283 

Marinade 54 

Marinate, to 204 

Marjoran, the lOS 

Meringue ' 300 

Microbes 518 

Mint, the 104 

Molasses for cooking 347, 351 

Mold 4!W) 

Monks-beard 207 

Rc 1 i 



Mousse 443 

Muriatic acid 350 

Mustard 105 

NASTURTIUM, the 537 

Nutmeg, the 412 

OILS 117 

Oleomai-garine 194 

Osmazome 21 

Ossein 21 

PECTOSE 489 

Peppermint 459 

Pilaff 179 

Piping 397 

Pluck, the 166 

QUENELLES 29 

RAISINE 484 

Raisins 310 

Ragout IIG 

Rennet 198, 410 

Rice 248 

Rocambole, the 24 

Roux 97 

Rumford, Count 20 

SAGE, the 182 

Sago 424 

Saleratus 350 

Salmis 176 

Sal-soda 350 

Sarsaparilla 572 

'Sautering 119, 121 

Shallot, the 24 

Soda 350 

Solauine 240 

Sorrel, the 37 

Spaghetti 233, 234 

Spices 97 

'Starch, cooking of 326 

Sugar, use of in cooking 477 

TALLOW, to clarify 175 

Tapioca 335 

Tarragon, the 110 

Theine 556 

Thermometers, use of 123 

Thyme, the 38 

Tonka, beans 358 

Trichina 144 

VANILLA 357 

Vegetable marrow 38 

Vegetole 119 

Vermicelli 233, 234 

WAFERS 273 

Wheat, entire 267 

Williams, Mattieu 216 

YEAST 203 to 265 

Yorkshire pudding 132 

ZANTE CURRANTS 340 

Zest 358 









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